View Full Version : Wagon donor, LCA position, and steering
NISMO_RB25
11-27-2013, 10:37 PM
Today I redid my front suspension to position the lower control arm in the outer most holes and in the correct under/over position for the mount near the firewall. It was a PITA, but now as would be expected my steering arms no longer line up and will need to be adjusted. Most of this makes since as the wagon was narrower than the sedans so mounting in the outer holes would give it the same width, but I haven't managed to find anyone using the steel LCAs that has posted a picture with them in this outer position.
My question is for anyone with a Wagon or RS donor.
Did you end up getting everything setup in the outer most holes and just adjust the steering arms to match the new width?
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wleehendrick
11-28-2013, 11:05 AM
I have a wagon donor, but haven't gotten there yet, I should be soon (just got the shock mounts on the arms). Your photo looks correct. By steering rods, I assume you mean the tie rods? My only concern is that the wagon rack and tie rod ends can properly adjust toe. Since the wagon rack, tie rods and ends were designed for a narrower tracked car, we may end up 'cross-eyed' (too much toe-in) and have to widen the rack assembly somehow (longer tie rod end, spacer, etc...)
NISMO_RB25
11-28-2013, 11:47 AM
Correct it is currently toed in so the tie rods will have to be adjusted out. I am just hoping someone else has already done this with a wagon donor and is having the same experience so I know I am not crazy. You will have to use a grinder on the underside of the front mounts in order to make room for the front mount to slide all the way to the front. The bolt holes also have to be drilled out some.
Bob_n_Cincy
11-28-2013, 11:52 PM
Correct it is currently toed in so the tie rods will have to be adjusted out. I am just hoping someone else has already done this with a wagon donor and is having the same experience so I know I am not crazy. You will have to use a grinder on the underside of the front mounts in order to make room for the front mount to slide all the way to the front. The bolt holes also have to be drilled out some.
Nismo
I have chassis #21 with wagon donor.
No grinding was necessary on the front mounts.
I and many other early builders had to drill holes in the rear mounting plate to get the bolt holes to line up.
See attached pictures.
Bob
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NISMO_RB25
11-29-2013, 10:51 AM
Nismo
I have chassis #21 with wagon donor.
No grinding was necessary on the front mounts.
I and many other early builders had to drill holes in the rear mounting plate to get the bolt holes to line up.
See attached pictures.
Bob
237142371523716
Thank you. That grinding on the mount near the firewall and enlarging the holes slightly is what I did a s well. Did you then just adjust your tier rods to get your wheels aligned?
Bob_n_Cincy
11-29-2013, 11:59 AM
Thank you. That grinding on the mount near the firewall and enlarging the holes slightly is what I did a s well. Did you then just adjust your tier rods to get your wheels aligned?
It should be that simple. But there is another issue where on some cars the steering rack is not in the middle of the car. Take your rack boots off and measure the rack is extended equally both ways. Then adjust your tie rods until the wheels are straight. Most end up with a lot of threads used on left and on a few on right.
Bob