The Start of a Journey - Metros Build Thread

[metros]

I've decided to build an 818 because building a kit car is a bucket list item for me. I chose the 818 because of the focus on being lightweight and great power potential of the EJ motors.

In the past I've had an STi with few modifications, turbocharged s2000 with 422rwhp, and LS powered rx7. These cars were all fun and had their own perks and drawbacks. I'm hoping my 818 covers the positive attributes of most of these cars without the drawbacks.

I'm currently slated for August 14th completion of my 818 kit. I'm really hoping that Factory Five Racing continues to up their production abilities to get these kits out faster. In the mean time I need to strip the donor and prepare all the parts needed for the 818. In preparation for this project I've hung several new shop lights and bought a 60 gallon Quincy single stage air compressor.

This weekend I washed my 2002 Bugeye WRX donor car to be parked and stripped. It's always easier to work on a clean car. Here are her last rights.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20131115_155435_zps705aaf54.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20131115_155405_zpsa7b40a93.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20131115_155451_zps3f7391b4.jpg

I purchased the car a few months ago and drove it around to get a feel for it and also make sure everything was working as it should be.

2002 WRX
-vf34
-Turbo xs FMIC
-MRT Turboback
-Kinesis wheels
-Putting down 243awhp - to start.

This weekend I also built my 818 build trolley. When the frame is delivered it will rest here so that I can move it while working on it if desired.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20131117_115242_zpsa495222e.jpg

Insert 818 here:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20131117_115229_zpsb7a3990f.jpg

My experience level: I've done a lot of suspension work over the past few years while building the last 3 cars. I replaced all the suspension bushings on my rx7 in addition to the normal coilovers, etc. However, I've never pulled an engine/transmission out of a car. I will be learning a lot throughout this project but am confident I'll be able to put together a very clean build.

But just in case, I've recently become friends with the guys at Mach V Motorsports in Sterling,VA. These guys have a ton of experience with the subaru community and do things right, instead of just getting them done. They're extremely trust worthy and will make recommendations based on your situation regardless of whether it's going to make them more or less money. I'm considering them my golden parachute if I get into a situation where I need a true expert to help me out.

I'll be posting updates here periodically on how stripping my wrx is coming, rehab'ing the donor parts, and finally my 818 build.

[wallace18]

Welcome to the FFR family.

[waruaki]

Your donor is in much better shape than mine was. Time to invest in a engine hoist.

[metalmaker12]

Nice, welcome

[Xusia]

Welcome to the fray! :)

[metros]

Thanks fellas!

Put my engine hoist together last week, it's just not in the picture. Need to put the engine stand together.

Today I took off the rear doors and stripped them of the necessary parts.

[Frank818]

A new kid in the family. :)

Your trolley, looks like all 4 corners are of the same height? I think you would benefit from having the rear higher. There is a thread on building a trolley.

[bil1024]

Welcome to the forum!

[metros]

I can always add more height or 'posts' that are smaller in specific spots.

The only trolley thread I found didn't have specifics on height. Share a link?

[Frank818]

Was it this one?

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?11458-Chassis-Dolly

[metros]

Nope, my search was borked with using 'dolley' instead of dolly. Thanks.

[metros]

Look what I picked up today! It took MachV less than a week to get this turbo in from Blouch, set up as requested. This particular turbo is a Blouch 18g xt. I opted for the ceramic coating on the hot side, 15psi actuator spring, and 7cm housing.

Holding something that is going to spin that fast and thinking of how tight it must have been engineered to perform is just cool.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20131122_151940_zps746554f0.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20131122_151924_zpsf6832f72.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20131122_151853_zps771f4b32.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20131122_151804_zpsd7585c5b.jpg

[apexanimal]

Awesome turbo

:thumbsup:

[metalmaker12]

What kind of power you want

[metros]

Initially I was thinking 300-325rwhp. But since I have invested in an STi transmission I decided on shooting a little higher. Hoping to be tuned very conservatively for 350 rwhp.

[metalmaker12]

That will be a great number and a serious amount of power on tap. I have between 250-300whp a solid guess until dyno and it can get loose at will, grated not really warm driving surface currently, but it was 60 degrees and I could still bake at will with the Rs3 or the S drive. Btw it was a blast ever time!

[metros]

I knew I shouldn't have parked my car in Tijauna!


http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20131123_210841_zpscd780c99.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20131123_210904_zpsa44331c5.jpg

Progressing faster than I anticipated.

[metros]

It's been quite awhile since I've updated this build thread. I've been posting on NASIOC more frequently.

Since my last post I've:

Added this guy to my family
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20131212_151931_zps62b504df.jpg

Made a ton of progress on tearing apart my donor.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/20140111_175807_zpsjtwg9ent.jpg

-All body panels are removed.
-Engine is out
-Transmission is out
-Engine is starting dismantle
-Wiring harness removal in progress
-Interior is mostly removed - I'm procrastinating working on removing the dash.
-Gathered a lot of parts that I'll be using in my build.
-Sold a few parts here and there

Still need to sort:
-Brakes that I'll be using on my 818
-Seats
-Powdercoating and revival of parts
-Power steering removal
-Rear end removal
-Decide on paint color and then choose wheel color of MachV wheels.

Overall it's coming along really well.

[Brando]

Quite a few new babies on this forum. That's amazing congrats to you and your new little bundle of joy. We are expecting our first baby together any day now, same with my kit...any day now.
Neat that you can add a notch in your belt for engine removal! I too recently added my first notch in that department with my now dismantled donor car. What are your build plans on the motor?
Have you looked into the hotlist to speed up your delivery?

[metros]

Congrats to you as well. Hope all goes well for your family. Hope your hospital chair bed was better than mine.

I was pretty happy with the amount of work I got done today. Feel like I'm on a good pace. I actually had my kit completion date moved up to March, which is the earliest I could really take it. That'll give me time to refurb and clean all my donor parts and my best friend returns stateside and can get his rx7 out of my garage.

Build wise I'm doing a blouch 18g and mild supporting mods. I'll also be using an sti 6 speed.

[Frank818]

Added this guy to my family
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20131212_151931_zps62b504df.jpg

You better wake him up, he's not going to be of any help if he sleeps all the time! :)

Congrats. :)

[mikeb75]

Congrats & welcome to the lunacy! My wife just asked how anyone has time to work on a car with a new arrival, I just smiled and didn't say anything (safer that way).

[RM1SepEx]

Congrats on the new addition! You are running two projects simultaneously, one will take a lifetime!

[metros]

That's very true. One takes my energy during the day and the other drains me at night. So worthwhile though.

Most of my project time has come in 1-2 hour spurts working as fast as I can. Yesterday was the first day I got several hours in the shop.

Thanks for the congrats all.

[Mechie3]

Congrats on the kid! Obligatory pics of the kiddie in the 818 when the seats are installed. Just don't tell the wife. ;)

[wallace18]

Cute Kid! He will be asking for the keys to the 818 before you know it. LOL.

[metalmaker12]

Congrats!!!, I got a three year old daughter and a son due in May, good luck with everything!!

[metros]

Continuing to make fairly good progress. This past weekend I dissected all of the rear suspension/brakes, removed the dash/cluster and continued working the harness free. There isn't much more that I need to remove from the donor. Still need the steering rack, wiring harness, ABS module and ABS sensors.

High point - My impact gun removing the long bolts that hold the rear lateral links and hub together. Air tools are extremely satisfying.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/20140126_152833_zpszzky4mcb.jpg

This guy loves helping strip the wrx.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/20140126_193536_zpstalupwxv.jpg

[metros]

Update: My donor has long been finished and sold last weekend. It's nice to have some open garage space for parts re-furb now that the shell is gone. I've done a lot of work selling parts and recouped a LARGE portion of my initial investment. After all is said and done I should come out with spending between $1000-1500 on all of my donor parts. I never thought I would be able to recoup that much. Of course those funds have all gone for new parts, tools, and other items. See below.

You know it's a good day when you arrive home from work and find these waiting at your door:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/20140307_111825_zpsz3gtra7a.jpg

Front and Rear, 4pot kit with 2 piece rotors - should do well in stopping this lightweight car:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/20140307_112728_zpsour1z35o.jpg

Very Cool Parts! Trailing arms to allow wider rear wheels:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/20140307_113033_zpsgbfrgmcj.jpg

The above trailing arms will help me run Mach V "Awesome" wheels - They're going to require some modifications to work, but I think they're sharp, they're pretty lightweight and the price is right.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y249/danhurwitz/Products/Wheels/Mach%20V%20Wheels/AtFIRM1_zps487b38f7.jpg~original

More updates to come this weekend. I'm in the process of de-powering the steering rack and painting parts/installing new bushings.

[Slatt]

Oh my. Yet another set of wheels that look good on an 818. The only bad ones I've seen yet are SSR Comp-C. Which are what I have lying around. Frustrating.

[longislandwrx]

Yeah the awesome/wicked awesome combo seems to be a great fit.

I think the matte black would look pretty rad.

[STiPWRD]

Congrats on selling the donor shell and sweet brakes!

[tmoretta]

What finish is on those Mach V wheels?

[metros]

The above picture is their silver finish. But they also have matte black and gold.

I'm planning on using the gold version of the awesome wheels. FYI the "awesome" is 17x9 +42 offset and the "wicked awesome" is 18x9.5 +42 offset. I'm going to stick with the 17x9, which is just shy of 18 lbs each.

As seen here: http://www.fastwrx.com/mavawwh.html

[metros]

I'll have my kit this weekend!

This past weekend I was working in overdrive trying to prepare parts before the kit arrives. I'll still have plenty of work to do on donor parts when the kit arrives but I did get a good amount accomplished.

I farmed some of the refurbing process out to Mach V Motorsports, who is local to me. Mach V installed new bearings in all 4 knuckles, new balljoints and new ARP studs from an EVO 8. The EVO studs use a coarser thread which will help prevent cross threading when frequently changing wheels for track/street. I also needed 2 new hubs out of the 4, which explains 2 shiny hubs and 2 POR15 hubs.

All hubs were wire brushed and prepped using POR15 Metal Prep, which eats away the contaminants, etches the metal and leaves a zinc coating. Pretty neat stuff. The POR15 shouldn't have any issues adhering for a long long time.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140310_182230_zpsp2zalri2.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140310_182121_zpsfh4qlejg.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140310_182247_zpsrgrkqckj.jpg

Lateral links - Removed all the old bushings and have some TiC graphite impregnated bushings ready to install. Lateral links were also all wire brushed and etched with POR15 Metal Prep prior to paint.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140310_182103_zpsnda3danf.jpg

I knew those old refrigerator racks would come in handy!

Transmission - PPG Helical gear built 5 speed. Thoroughly degreased and also prepped with the previously mentioned POR15 Metal Prep. Can you tell I love this stuff?

3 coats of VHT Engine Paint, came out looking brand new.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140310_182328_zpsjt1odwwk.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140310_182311_zpsk4jxdk5v.jpg

[AZPete]

Beautiful work! Especially for a sleep-deprived daddy.

[longislandwrx]

You may want to wire wheel the face of that painted hub to make sure your wheel sits flat.

Also make sure you top coat that POR or it will fade

[metros]

Not a bad thing to think of on prepping the hub surface. I have some 2 inch 3m pads for my angle grinder to level the hubs out if necessary.

I'm not planning to topcoat as these parts will all be under the car and out of direct sunlight.

[longislandwrx]

I POR'd the engine bay of my 73 Vega and even with the hood on and very little exposure to the sun it still faded after a few years. Didn't look bad, just not shiny. JMHO

[metros]

Success!

On Saturday I was on the road at 1:30am in order to reach Factory Five before they closed at noon. I arrived to find a few other guys that made the journey to pick up their new project as well. The staff at Factory Five took me on a tour of the factory, which was an impressive facility.

I also got to see the showroom full of Factory Five creations to include hot rods, cobra replicas, GTM, and 818!

Love the candy red color!
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140315_110340_zpsw4pydshk.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140315_110542_zpsmehwmwzx.jpg

My new project at last!
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140315_110955_zpseocyqcks.jpg

All loaded up on my build trolley and strapped down several times over to the trailer. There was also a considerable amount of boxes full of parts. :)

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140315_123231_zpsbfclqny1.jpg

After picking up we started the journey back and stopped at a hotel in Providence. Turned out the Marriot I had made reservations at wasn't in the greatest part of town. Parking your new project in a lot with broken side window glass, a hypodermic needle, and signs stating "management not responsible for items stolen from vehicles" doesn't exactly allow you to settle in to catch a few Z's. We unloaded all the boxes out of the truck into the hotel room and chained the frame to the trailer with lock. After checking it frequently throughout the night I found everything intact in the morning. Thanking my lucky stars on that one.

Today we drove the 8 additional hours back home without much incident. Just 40 minutes out from being parked in my garage it started snowing heavily. The kit had accumulated a fair amount of slush cover and boxes in the bed of the truck had an inch of snow resting on them. We quickly unloaded the truck and got the boxes into the garage. I cranked my heater up and did the best I could to dry the aluminum panels. Not a big issue because they were going to be painted anyways.

Tucked in for the night in a warm garage:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140316_184700_zpshszttzar.jpg

After a long weekend I'm ready to crash and start inventorying the parts boxes tomorrow!

[STiPWRD]

congrats man, glad the pick up went well!

[AZPete]

Congrats on a successful pickup. I enjoyed the story of your adventure with fun, fear and snow..

[metros]

Over the past few weekends I've made some decent progress on the kit.

When I first got the kit home I had to clean everything because we got caught in snow on the way home. Unpacked the body panels after cleaning them with Optimum No Rinse and gave the chassis the same treatment.

First up I had to inventory the numerous boxes full of parts. Once that was taken care of I was anxious to get my hands on the kit and get started.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140330_161056_zpsmdzwufax.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140321_175505_zpshsgflnkq.jpg

I wanted to hang the suspension first but had a few necessary parts on back order. Instead I started on the front firewall. The aluminum panels come hung on the car with 1-2 metal screws each. In order to rivet the panels to the car I first marked the panels for the cross bar locations. Then remove and mark at 3 inch increments incorporating the holes that were already there from the original screws. All very time consuming as you have to space the rivet holes of each panel to coordinate with each other.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140322_155309_zpssdqldkxc.jpg

Once the aluminum panels are drilled they get re-installed to drill the chassis for rivet holes.

The aluminum panels can get riveted on as is. But I wanted to dress them up a bit as aluminum shows everything and is difficult to keep clean. I saw another 818 builder use Herculiner, which looked good and would help deaden some sound. I decided to do the same.

Each panel had all the rivet holes de-burred with my die grinder and scotch bright prep pads. Then the panels were scuffed and cleaned with acetone prior to herculiner treatment.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140329_190037_zpseubmxsyg.jpg

Before riveting the panels in place a bead of silicone is laid where all contact with the chassis is made. This is to prevent squeaks/rattles.

Panels installed
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140330_160954_zpszm6pbs4h.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140330_161019_zpsw2raaazn.jpg

I'm in the process of doing the same for some of the panels in the cockpit.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140330_161040_zpslotljfo6.jpg

[metros]

I also finished de-powering my steering rack. In order to do this I had to strip the entire steering rack apart and remove the seal. While it was apart I painted everything and replaced the inner/outer tie rods as well as the rubber boots.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140321_175549_zpsrgcjhyqs.jpg

I've also been painting the raw steel brackets that fill all those boxes shown in my garage. I'm using rustoleum black gloss with primer and it's producing great results. I'm also clear coating all of these brackets.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140330_161444_zpsltyrffxh.jpg

My painting area
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140330_161507_zpsdlwrjsxj.jpg

All of these parts are being scuffed with my die grinder/scotch bright prep pads and cleaned with acetone prior to paint.

On Deck:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140330_161452_zpsv3bljh62.jpg

Door bars - Yes, these will be installed in the doors and won't ever be seen. But the voice in the back of my head said to paint them up just like everything else.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140330_161529_zpsz6efd41y.jpg

Next up - Finish prepping the lateral links with new TiC bushings and FCAR bushings for the front LCA. Install a new gates timing belt/water pump/tensioners on the engine. Remove intake manifold/valve covers for powder coat. Continue on cockpit aluminum panels.

[TahoeTim]

good progress

When i built my Cobra, I sent all those parts to the powdercoater. I may paint them this time around.

fyi I coated my cobra panels with spray can undercoating. I may do that again but it is a messy tar coating.

[wleehendrick]

Nice writeup and good progress. I used 3M rubberized undercoat on my chassis panels with a similar scotchbrite and acetone treatment, sticks well really deadens the sound. I sandblasted and powdercoated all my bare steel gloss black... so your chassis looks a lot like mine! Recently Ive been prepping my body panels... sanding down the rough fiberglass and using the same 3M material on the inside... looks really nice there too!

[metros]

Thanks guys.

I'm still trying to decide on what to coat the inside of my body panels with. Initially I was going to use herculiner. But now I'm considering lizard skin sound deadening just because it'll be a lot thinner than the herculiner.

[Goldwing]

I'm going the sound deadening route as well. I'm holding off on the inside of body panels for now. I'd like to reinforce a few panels like the lower front bumper, for crack protection as it seems a bit of a weak spot (perhaps necessitating a splitter?), and hood trunk pieces to allow for hinges and latches. Once I get that all sorted, I'll coat the inside body panels as well. Since all of that will involve fiberglass work, I'm keeping them bare to allow for better bonding.

[Xusia]

Thanks guys.

I'm still trying to decide on what to coat the inside of my body panels with. Initially I was going to use herculiner. But now I'm considering lizard skin sound deadening just because it'll be a lot thinner than the herculiner.

You might want to check this out: http://www.hytechsales.com/prodsc.html Same thing (original, as a matter of fact), but significantly le$$.

Another thing you might want to consider is spray foam - and I'm not talking about the crap in the can you get at Home Depot. I'm talking about real spray foam: http://www.sprayfoamkit.com/products/spray-foam-kits

It's both an excellent sound deadener and thermal insulator, it has adhesive properties as well (which can help quell squeaks, rattles, etc.), and it weighs little. Something to think about...

[metros]

^^^Thanks for the suggestions.

This week was a lot of prep work for the front suspension. Progress was slow as it seemed like I took 2 steps forward and 1 step back. Several trips to the hardware store and had to repaint one bracket after modifying it.

First off - more organization! Searching through a 12x12" box for hardware was getting old. Separated out all the hardware for easier searching.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140405_172347_zps1ziqcsyy.jpg

Installed Turn in Concepts FCAR bushings
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140404_132228_zpszuta8n4z.jpg

Prepared the front LCA to accept the Koni suspension. I purchased these aluminum LCA from a 2006 wrx specifically because that's the only year that these are aluminum - lighter and stronger than the stamped steel donor LCA. Drilling your aluminum LCA is something that requires double and triple checking first. The top side bracket was originally painted and ready to go. However, I found I couldn't got a socket down between the uprights in order to tighten the hardware. I clearanced the sides just a touch to allow my socket to fit and then repainted them.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140405_154928_zpsprdkkld7.jpg

The bracket pictured on the right is bolted on the opposite side of the LCA, effectively acting as a large nut/washer for the top bolt/bracket.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140405_154948_zps2apeiako.jpg

Front Koni Shocks - 500# springs - both are the 818R equipment that I upgraded for my 818S. These are double adjustable.

Assembled:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140405_170904_zpshqx1bmxr.jpg

The rear donor sway bar is used in the front of the 818. My donor came with a whiteline sway bar that had served the previous owner for a number of years (evidently). The only thing that didn't have a coat of rust on it was the Whiteline sticker.

Start:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140406_115003_zpsh0v8fttb.jpg

Surface rust ground off and etched with POR15 prep and ready.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140406_135439_zpsvngj1crw.jpg

[metros]

After 2 coats of POR15 - I ended up doing one more coat.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140406_163757_zpsfmrxw6qq.jpg

Put the upright brackets on the front knuckles - Still need to find 2 of the donor rear strut bolts.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140406_155551_zpshi1y87pw.jpg

Is the below orientation of these bushings looking correct to everyone else? The manual just states to switch sides, unfortunately I already had them apart and can just barely make out the details in the manual picture.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140406_161358_zpsymcdjddv.jpg

[metros]

Are the inner/outer CV boots the same part number? I can't find a part number for the rear outer cv boots anywhere, but can find the front/rear inner.

[longislandwrx]

No different part numbers.

I don't have the Subaru PNs as I use the EMPI kits... rear outer is 86-2131D

front inner is 86-2450D

[metros]

Thanks!

[RM1SepEx]

Your lower control arm bushing are oriented correctly

[metros]

Made some decent progress this week. Really felt good to start bolting parts on to the car instead of spending time preparing parts.

The lower control arm bracket that I showed last week was re-painted and bolted to the front LCA (aluminum). The front LCA rear bushings were upgraded with TiC FCAR bushings and ready to go. I sourced 4 new grade 8 bolts for the upright to knuckle adapters. My OCD kicked in again as I didn't want to use 2 old bolts and 2 new bolts. Then I could only source 3 of the properly sized bolts, which I eventually found a 4th after visiting several hardware stores (M14x2.0 60mm BTW). The front struts/shocks were assembled and ready to install. Now the fun part, putting it all together!

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140413_135219_zpsujqmodl2.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140413_135228_zpsmracqgv0.jpg

I had everything for the front UCA prepared to install, however I received 2 different balljoint mounts that I'll have to sort out with FFR before moving forward. See below - one mount is perfectly flat and the other has the balljoint at a clear angle. Frustrating but I can see how that would be easy to do.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140412_105551_zpswsziyksk.jpg

Continued the painting of brackets - it's never ending!
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140413_135155_zps3cwtvjya.jpg

Then I started on the axles for the 818. Due to the engine/trans being in the rear of the 818 you have to mix and match the 4 donor axles to account for that. You take the inner CV joint of the front axles and the outer of the rear axles to make 1 set of axles to use in the rear of the car. Then the front bearings are held in place by the front outers only.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140413_111158_zpsqifj8akn.jpg

Front inners disassembled, cleaned and ready to install on the FFR axle shaft.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140413_131507_zpspbii8zyn.jpg

Overall not difficult to dis-assemble this end, but cleaning gobs of bearing grease is never fun. The inner cv cups will be getting sanded and painted.

That's all I had time for this weekend as I had to do some work on the house this weekend and spent some time enjoying the beautiful weather as well.

All this work sure is tiring though!
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140413_144852_zpsk2esujl8.jpg

[Frank818]

Funny how the shop-vac looks EXACTLY like the shocks. Both the colors and the shop-vac hose vs shock's collar. :)

[metros]

Ha, hadn't noticed that until you pointed it out. Craftsman shopvac subconscious advertising.

[longislandwrx]

That top bolt should be a M16... your M14 is probably loose?

[metros]

Top bolt on the knuckle to uca adapter? Both bolts were tight through the holes. I actually had to lightly tap them through because of the paint in the hole itself.

I'll double check them though.

[longislandwrx]

Yes. Unless FFR shrunk the hole which would not be a good thing. Take the knuckle out and fit the bolt to just the knuckle first.

27902

Note the big bolt on mine.
27903

[metros]

^^^Replaced those bolts with m16 bolts and yes they were a better fit. Thanks for the heads up.

My focus this week was to finish setting up the axles for the 818. As I said in the previous post, the 818 uses all 4 axles to make a set of rear axles. Factory five provides axle shafts and you use the front inner CV and rear outer CV to create the rear set of axles.

Last weekend I pulled apart the front inner axles and cleaned everything. Over the week I sanded and painted the cv buckets.

Outer axles in process of removal. These get positioned in a vice and you have to pound the inner race to get them off the axle shaft.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140418_135513_zpsh54zdhsq.jpg

The sprocket looking thing is the inner race.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140418_135547_zpshgtrduxg.jpg

Once I had them apart I cleaned as much grease out of them as I could and repacked them with Redline Synthetic CV grease.

New shafts with new rubber boots ready for the ends to be installed.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140418_160712_zps3cqhg4gx.jpg

818 Axles ready to install: Also shown is the finished product of my sway bar refurbishing.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140420_122930_zpsbdqoiu5l.jpg

I started prepping the pedals for install.

Rusty:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140420_123922_zpsqp1stfrh.jpg

Ground and sanded - ready to paint
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140420_130845_zpsdwdk6oxn.jpg

I also did the same for the gas pedal. But that needs to be modified for the 818 before I can paint.

I also completed the final part of de-powering the steering rack. A lot of builders will just tie the ports together. But that just leaves useless lines that aren't visually appealing wherever they are. Instead I followed another builder's idea and cut the stock fittings off the power steering lines and had a friend weld them closed, then grind smooth and paint.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140420_132826_zpsxj6psxza.jpg

[metros]

As the build is going along I'm realizing that I need to work at the step I am currently on as well as several steps ahead in order to prep. This makes progress slow as you're hopping around to several different areas constantly.

This weekend I:

Finished the lateral links by installing the Turn in Concepts bushings. Ready to go now.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140427_133727_zps6djl9tty.jpg

Set up the 'Very Cool Parts' trailing arms. These will allow me to run wider wheels/tires in the rear than the stock trailing arms. I'm debating between 17x9 rear wheels and 18x9.5 rear wheels. I'll be using a 265 series tire, which is more easily available in 18" diameters but that adds weight overall. Decisions.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140427_133711_zpsf30lvdin.jpg

Installed the front upper control arms. Prior to installation you need to thread the balljoints into the UCA. A note to future builders - grease the threads on both initially and thread it on, then remove and clean the grease before re-installing. The balljoint threads are full of paint/powdercoat, which takes a ton of force to cut through. Afterwards you can threadlock the threads for permanent installation.

Front suspension:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140427_133556_zpsumj1hbly.jpg

Had the steering column ready to install, then realized I hadn't set the mounting brackets aside. Very frustrating to have everything ready to install then realize you didn't keep the mounting brackets. I've got a set on the way to install next weekend.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140427_133604_zpsd9kvuca6.jpg

Loosely installed the adapters for the rear hubs/suspension. Should be able to hang the rear suspension next weekend. *Crosses fingers*

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140427_133445_zps10jsshhf.jpg

Overall I'm enjoying the build and seeing parts come together.

[metros]

Parts!

I received some of the crucial parts of my build today. From 'Very Cool Parts' I received the AWIC set up that I'll be using and the K-Tuned Shifter - which is just as badass as I anticipated it was going to be. My local Subaru experts at Mach V Motorsports set me up with a CSF radiator, valve cover gasket kit, colder spark plugs, new o2 sensor, axle nuts and group N trans mount. All of the above was ready for pick up with just 2 days notice. Thanks Mach V!

Pictures:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140502_195509_zpsc0zdmdl9.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140502_195543_zpsbdlrpnzr.jpg

K-Tuned Shifter - such an impressive piece. I cannot wait to sit in my 818 and feel the way this thing shifts. I would anticipate it'll shift nicer than my s2000 did, which was glorious.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140502_200321_zpsiqh2kk3y.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140502_200300_zpsowv5vf8w.jpg

Sunday updates will show progress I've made over the weekend.

[metros]

I didn't make a ton of forward progress this weekend. I'm trying to remind myself to enjoy the journey and not focus on completion. At times that's hard to do because progress is slow compared to what I'd like. Personality wise, I need to see/feel progress to be satisfied with any project I'm working on.

I was able to mount the steering rack.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140504_124720_zpsnspqi6rp.jpg

I also had to go back and redo a portion of the firewall. I didn't read far enough ahead in the manual and realized that the steering column bracket needed to be bolted on before the firewall was installed. I was able to drill out the rivets, install, and re-install the firewall in an hour.

The rear suspension was fighting me this weekend as well. I was planning on re-using the stock rear lateral links with new Turn in Concepts bushings. However, with those installed and the hubs mounted I can't get the rear trailing arms to line up with the hub. The toe adjustment isn't getting to where everything lines up nicely. If I get aftermarket lateral links then I can adjust rear toe to where everything lines up nicely and then re-adjust at alignment time.

Going to make time this Friday to get some things accomplished.

[Frank818]

I also had to go back and redo a portion of the firewall. I didn't read far enough ahead in the manual and realized that the steering column bracket needed to be bolted on before the firewall was installed.

Shouldn't the bracket installation then be located on a page before the installation of the firewall?
It's kinda of weird to read page 350 to do a step before page 267. :)

[metros]

I would tend to agree with you. To be honest I was unaware of said bracket until the manual revision came out. At that point the firewall was already installed.

If that's the only thing I have to redo then I'll be happy.

[metalmaker12]

Looking good!! I used Bedlinered on my wheel well and should have on my front aluminum like u.

[metros]

Progress!

After wrestling with the stock lateral links last weekend and not getting everything to line up due to lack of toe adjustment, I decided to upgrade to the whiteline units that would allow camber adjustment and lots of toe adjustment. With these units it was still a wrestling match to get everything cohesive but I think I'll be much happier with the additional adjustment that these provide.

I'm also using the VCP trailing arms to allow wider wheels/tires. I'm planning on using the Mach V 'Wicked Awesome' in the rear, which is 18x9.5 +42.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140511_152534_zpspu6iyllf.jpg

Lots of toe right now:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140511_152546_zps7luuhuga.jpg

Front outer cv joints - As you can see these won't be attached to anything. They're only there to keep the bearing in place and happy. Plus the ABS sensor will be using them as well. This weekend I popped all the original ball bearings out of it and cleaned it up.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140511_152600_zpswazl0irc.jpg

Michael Everson master cylinder mounting flange. This is an add on that's used solely to level the master cylinder mounting out, instead of the weird twist that the FFR hardware uses. Very happy with the quality of the piece. Maybe next weekend you'll be able to see how the master cylinder looks all mounted in place.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140511_152608_zpsvf3u9rph.jpg

Pedals! If anything makes you feel like you're making progress it's putting the pedals into the car! Gas should be installed next weekend. So no vroom vroom noises until then. Anybody have pictures of the gas pedal bracket installed?

This is after finishing painting them up with POR15.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140511_152625_zpslilmkiq0.jpg

Next Weekend:
-Paint steering column adapter
-Finish pedal install
-Look at mounting ABS unit

[Frank818]

Your lower control arm bushing are oriented correctly

Tnx Dan.

[07FIREBLADE]

I didn't make a ton of forward progress this weekend. I'm trying to remind myself to enjoy the journey and not focus on completion. At times that's hard to do because progress is slow compared to what I'd like. Personality wise, I need to see/feel progress to be satisfied with any project I'm working on.

I was able to mount the steering rack.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140504_124720_zpsnspqi6rp.jpg

I also had to go back and redo a portion of the firewall. I didn't read far enough ahead in the manual and realized that the steering column bracket needed to be bolted on before the firewall was installed. I was able to drill out the rivets, install, and re-install the firewall in an hour.

The rear suspension was fighting me this weekend as well. I was planning on re-using the stock rear lateral links with new Turn in Concepts bushings. However, with those installed and the hubs mounted I can't get the rear trailing arms to line up with the hub. The toe adjustment isn't getting to where everything lines up nicely. If I get aftermarket lateral links then I can adjust rear toe to where everything lines up nicely and then re-adjust at alignment time.

Going to make time this Friday to get some things accomplished.

I feel your pain about the steering column bracket. I did the same thing except that my bracket got lost during transit and I didn't realize that was the missing box. Took 1.5 weeks to figure it out and get another made and sent to me. Talk about back tracking.

[STiPWRD]

Great progress! I've gotta catch up :eek:

[metros]

Thanks, you've got to update your build thread. I've been curious how far along you are.

[dougkirkbride]

This steering column bracket you speak of......... is this just for certain year donars? i have a 06 wrx wagon donar - chassis 115 and dont seem to have a bracket or remember reading in the manual about a bracket. I am ready to put firewall on and dont want to do it twice. I have had steering column in and all seems good. am I missing something?

Thanks

Doug

[metros]

I think the bracket is used across the board, but I could be wrong. Here is the manual revision that shows the bracket. Take a look through your boxes as mine was separate in it's own white box with hardware, easy to overlook.

https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/818_Manual_rev-1i-update.pdf

[RM1SepEx]

the earlier frames had the pedal mount welded in. I think that the bolt in section is an update to allow easier install of the Wilwood pedal assy

[dougkirkbride]

thanks for the info Metros and dan. i think mine may be welded in, is this bracket the 3/16 or 1/4 thick plate the pedal box front mounts to inside the car? does anyone have a picture of this bracket by itself, before installed?

thanks Doug

[metros]

Yes the pedal box mounts to this bracket.

[dougkirkbride]

Thanks Metros.......I looked back through your thread and saw ware you just had the alluminum sheeting on ware the bracket goes. Mine was welded in. should be good to go on the sheeting.

[metalmaker12]

Progress!

After wrestling with the stock lateral links last weekend and not getting everything to line up due to lack of toe adjustment, I decided to upgrade to the whiteline units that would allow camber adjustment and lots of toe adjustment. With these units it was still a wrestling match to get everything cohesive but I think I'll be much happier with the additional adjustment that these provide.

I'm also using the VCP trailing arms to allow wider wheels/tires. I'm planning on using the Mach V 'Wicked Awesome' in the rear, which is 18x9.5 +42.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140511_152534_zpspu6iyllf.jpg

Lots of toe right now:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140511_152546_zps7luuhuga.jpg

Front outer cv joints - As you can see these won't be attached to anything. They're only there to keep the bearing in place and happy. Plus the ABS sensor will be using them as well. This weekend I popped all the original ball bearings out of it and cleaned it up.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140511_152600_zpswazl0irc.jpg

Michael Everson master cylinder mounting flange. This is an add on that's used solely to level the master cylinder mounting out, instead of the weird twist that the FFR hardware uses. Very happy with the quality of the piece. Maybe next weekend you'll be able to see how the master cylinder looks all mounted in place.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140511_152608_zpsvf3u9rph.jpg

Pedals! If anything makes you feel like you're making progress it's putting the pedals into the car! Gas should be installed next weekend. So no vroom vroom noises until then. Anybody have pictures of the gas pedal bracket installed?

This is after finishing painting them up with POR15.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140511_152625_zpslilmkiq0.jpg

Next Weekend:
-Paint steering column adapter
-Finish pedal install
-Look at mounting ABS unit

Your only in the second round of a 12 round fight, but your ahead. Lol

[metros]

Glad to help doug.

If I'm ahead an inch I'll take it!

[STiPWRD]

Thanks, you've got to update your build thread. I've been curious how far along you are.

I'll try to snap some pics an post an update tomorrow

[metros]

Not a ton of progress to report this weekend. I did get some necessities taken care of this weekend though.

-New Gates timing belt, water pump, t-belt tensioner, and idler pulleys. All of mine seemed to be in good condition and fairly fresh. However, I didn't know when exactly they were replaced so I replaced them anyways. One less thing to think about once the engine is installed. Especially since the timing belt side of the engine will be inaccessible once installed in the 818.

The timing belt guide I used:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1794043

-I freshened up the timing belt covers as they were all showing their age to some degree. I used Bumper/Trim coating from duplicolor and they came out looking brand new.

-Tore the rest of the top of the engine off. Removed the intake manifold, TGV all coolant piping, etc. Took these parts to get powdercoat in addition to the interior panels. The engine parts will be powdercoated gloss black and the interior panels will be satin black. I also took my brand new air to water intercooler to be powdercoated gloss black as well. I pushed to get these parts to powder because I'll be busy with family next weekend, which will allow the shop plenty of time to get them powdercoated.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140518_124403_zps9579rzq3.jpg

-The small coolant lines and oil dipstick tube were starting to show some rust bubbles. I removed those, ground them down, and sprayed them with fresh gloss black engine paint and clear. Should look brand new once they're dry and reinstalled.

[RM1SepEx]

I had a water pump leak, I damaged the gasket when I installed it when I did the belts pumps etc... It can easily be accessed from inside the car with the engine installed (FFR tank only)

[metalmaker12]

100 % use the oem rubber gasket for the water
pump, the gates paper one is junk.

You could do a timing belt on the 818 with motor still in. Actually with the upper firewall off it would be easier than on a subie.

[STiPWRD]

I also took my brand new air to water intercooler to be powdercoated gloss black as well.

How thick is your powder coat going to be on your intercooler? It's great as a protective coating but can greatly reduce heat transfer especially if it's too thick. Personally, I'd stay away from painting or powdercoating the intercooler.

[metros]

Thanks for the tips fellas. I didn't think it'd be accessible once installed but I can see how it could. Hard to picture until I have the engine in place.

I don't have an exact thickness on the powdercoat, but the coating will only be on the outside. The heat transfer happens on the inside. I'm using Wayne's vcp air 2 water intercooler.

[metros]

Last weekend:
-Changed spark plugs to one step colder as recommended by my tuner.

-Finished the coolant tube refurbishing. Also refurbished the oil dipstick tube.

Before: Rust bubbling up underneath the paint, especially around the ends.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140518_102640_zpsjmzgsu9e.jpg

Prepped: Ground down and sanded all the rust off. Then used metal prep to etch the metal in prep for paint.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140518_111048_zpsompv0eqs.jpg

Finished with Gloss Black VHT Engine enamel and clear.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140522_175657_zps1yuqccf5.jpg

Put on the PTP Lava Turbo Blanket - the hotside of my blouch 18g is ceramic coated to help retain heat and improve spool. Adding the Blanket for further gains in spool and controlling engine bay heat.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140526_165912_zpsomvlm5wy.jpg

Wires - .032 diameter
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140526_165939_zpsfooecchn.jpg

This weekend: Picked up power coated parts! Very happy with the finished product.

All the engine parts I had coated gloss black. The interior aluminum I had them do a satin black so that it wouldn't show as much dust on the interior.

Pictures!
Wayne's AWIC: Sorry Wayne, I had plans for my own design to go across the AWIC. Thus the powder coat and future logo design.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140530_152222_zpsvcr4vbk1.jpg

Interior panels
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140530_152213_zps6vrn39so.jpg

[metalmaker12]

Very nice

[Frank818]

That looks pretty good indeed!!

[metros]

Today I was able to get the valve covers bolted back on with new gaskets all around. Also installed Mechie's 818 oil fill. Nice billet aluminum piece that's much shorter than the stock oil fill tube.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140601_140845_zpsqs2d6kbe.jpg

Removed the oil pan today. When I bought the donor I was told it had the Killer Bee oil pick up and STi oil pan. I was happy to learn it also had the killer bee windage tray. While the oil pan was off I decided to sand it down and repaint it just because.

Pretty clean
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140601_140911_zpsehvixjz4.jpg

Prepped:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140531_165011_zps8f710l1v.jpg

Painted along with the rest of the freshly painted parts:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140601_140753_zpsfhyzoznw.jpg

A lot of this weekend was spent prepping, painting and generally re-conditioning engine parts. I disassembled the overflow tank to clean and paint. I removed the Perrin fuel rails/lines and cleaned painted the rails to go with my color scheme.

I was only able to get one side of the interior panels riveted. Unfortunately my pneumatic pop riveter stopped working today. I had a hand riveter to finish that side with. I'm going to try to problem solve my air riveter as it produces a much cleaner final product than my hand piece. The powder coated panels look great in the car though.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140601_154920_zpsi9cyhtfu.jpg

[metros]

Didn't update this thread last weekend as I typically do. Last weekend was focused around prepping parts to put back on the engine. The IM bolt holes have been 'adjusted' to sync up with the TGV deletes. The coolant crossover tube has been drilled and tapped for a barb fitting. This way I can connect the coolant overflow with the coolant cross over and avoid any air bubbles in the cooling system when filling it up.

Everything laid out and ready to bolt on.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140615_152342_zpspddnrzvn.jpg

This weekend I had to get my hands back on the actual 818. Prepping the engine to put in the chassis is crucial work, however I don't get the same feeling of progress. This weekend I hopped around and tied up a lot of loose ends to complete jobs.

-I forgot to modify the brake pedal prior to installing last time around. I removed the brake/clutch pedals and modified them per the FFR directions. FFR recommends drilling a hole to attach the pedal at a higher location for more leverage on the brake pedal since it won't be using power brakes.

-While the brake and clutch pedals were out I focused on the gas pedal mount. A lot of builders have complained that it flexes at times and the design is a little wonky. I beefed it up by riveting some additional aluminum on it and drilled/bent an additional mounting location on the gas pedal mount. I also added another rivnut mounting location at the very top of the gas pedal mount. Overall, it's much more stout now.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140615_152409_zpsts7nmfdt.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140615_152401_zps1nynrorr.jpg

-I took my pneumatic rivet gun apart, cleaned it and re-assembled it in order to get it back up and running. I'm surprised it needed that so soon as I had only used it for around 150 pop rivets. Using the newly running pop riveter I was able to attach all of the passenger side interior panels that came back from powder coat. I still need to finish the foot boxes before I can finish with that section of riveting.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140615_152650_zpsgptu1wrn.jpg

-I assembled all of the Wilwood 2 piece rotors that I'll be using on the 818. Wilwood recommends red loctite on the rotor to hat hardware. The rear hardware is also pre-drilled for safety wiring the bolts as an additional fail safe. I sought out ARP hardware for the front brake system so that I could also safety wire the front brakes. I'm not sure why but Wilwood only provides button head bolts instead of the safety wire bolts.

Safety wiring takes some practice to get good at. I highly recommend picking up the special pliers that are used for safety wiring as you won't be able to get nearly as tightly wound safety wire without them. The safety wire I used is .032" stainless steel.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140615_190214_zps5hfx4pdz.jpg

Next week I need to remove the rear heat shields and clearance some of the brake mounts before I can start bolting the brakes up. I also would like to get the engine mostly buttoned up. I'm kind of putting the engine off as I'm not looking forward to figuring out all the vacuum hoses/etc that I need to re-install.

[metros]

Another couple weeks since my last update. I've continued to work on the car and put off re-assembling the engine. It's hard to pull myself away from the actual 818 to work on the engine. After the brakes are completed then I'll be back to finishing the engine up in prep to put in the chassis. Also worked on a few other odds and ends.

These are the front outer cv. I had them previously installed but removed them because the stock green/rust was bothering me. They're now nicely painted and ready to re-install. FYI, mason jars work well to hold them while the paint is drying.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140629_134727_zpsthx8b5tp.jpg

After modifying the gas pedal bracket I had to re-paint it, because OCD.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140629_134825_zpsvq8mw8as.jpg

This weekend I spent a good chunk of time sealing the inside of the FFR gas tank. It's welded aluminum and powdercoated on the outside. However, I didn't want any chances for a pinhole leak. I used the 3 step sealing kit from KBS and overall I'm happy with the job.

The kit comes with a cleaning solution, etching solution, and sealant. Considering it was a brand new tank I was surprised how dirty the cleaning solution was when I poured it out. FYI, sloshing liquid around the inside of a bulky gas tank is a great workout. Then constantly moving the sealant inside the tank for 35 minutes to create an even coat of sealant will make you sweat.

Hard to see but the inside is a solid coating of silver. It takes 96 hours to cure and is rock hard.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140629_135153_zpstfh5kj3f.jpg

Brakes:
I'm using the 4 pot F/R wilwood set up with 2 piece rotors. The last post has pictures of the safety wiring on the 2 piece rotors. Overall I've been really happy with the wilwood set up. They give you everything you need to make the fit perfect. But it is time consuming assembling, adjusting spacing, and re-assembling the parts to find the perfect fitment.

The rears required the heat shields to be removed. I used a sharp chisel and hammer to bust through the spot welds and then used my die grinder to grind the resulting plate smooth. After that I coated them both with POR15. The caliper mounting plate has to be ground down to allow fitment of the larger calipers. However, after grinding everything smooth and painting with POR15 it's hard to tell they were cut at all.

Rears: Still troubleshooting a little before final assembly.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140629_134904_zpsfvfsqtzx.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140629_134924_zpsjkexocl4.jpg

Fronts: Fully assembled - I love the retaining clip for the brake pads. Perfect fitment and doesn't require any tools to install/remove.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140629_134844_zpst0dk6lnh.jpg

[metros]

I also received my updated carbon parts from FFR. They're not perfectly finished on both sides. But I'm much happier with these parts than the last batch of carbon parts.

Front Splitter:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140629_140308_zpse3rqf1z9.jpg

Rear Diffuser:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140629_135756_zpsmitaqng1.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140629_135815_zpsb9kvtbz8.jpg

Side sills: 1 of these is the last generation of carbon parts and 1 of these is the new version. My next problem is seeing if FFR will trade me a new for the old. The two won't come remotely close to matching on the car even after finishing work. If I can get that swapped out for the old then I'll be 100% happy with my FFR transactions and 818 purchase.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140629_140953_zpsqhp5f2q4.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140629_141002_zps3lpbgqyy.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140629_141027_zpspqfdsiez.jpg

[metros]

My son is also very happy with the new carbon fiber parts!
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140628_053712_zpskedy3zcc.jpg

[Frank818]

The rears required the heat shields to be removed.

Say that again? How do you remove the backplate without removing the hub?

[metros]

Heatshields are spot welded to the backing plate. Removed the heatshields with a sharp chisel and hammer by cutting through the spot welds. Then I ground down the backing plate (for lack of a better name) and painted with POR15. The backing plate was not removed, just the heat shields.

[Frank818]

Oh I never realized there were 2 types of shields composing the backing plate. So the heat shields are removed permanently? Maybe I should read the installation manual, I think some paper came with the kit. I thought it was a direct bolt-on, but hey, it's a kit car after all, we're used to that. loll

[metros]

I don't know if the directions mention the heat shields. However, the rotors are larger than the heatshields themselves, which you'll quickly find are in the way. Typically the rotor sits inside the heat shield to some degree. Some people will flatten the heat shields out so that they can fit a larger rotor. It's up to you though.

[Mechie3]

Is the new sideskirt full carbon!?! Mine are fiberglass with Carbon over the top. :/

[C.Plavan]

Is the new sideskirt full carbon!?! Mine are fiberglass with Carbon over the top. :/

Yep- They send me the new front race splitter- all carbon. My rear diffuser.... crap fiberglass carbon fiber that is already delaminating (not even installed yet) I sent an email to get replacement.

[metros]

Yes, I'm hoping to get the one side skirt replaced. The new generation won't come close to matching the previous generation.

[Mechie3]

Yep- They send me the new front race splitter- all carbon. My rear diffuser.... crap fiberglass carbon fiber that is already delaminating (not even installed yet) I sent an email to get replacement.

Hmm...

I already got a replacement rear diffuser because mine had weave issues (straight section vs woven) and it was still glass/carbon IIRC. Can't hurt to ask though. My side skirts had tons of bubbles on the 90 deg bend.

[Frank818]

Metros, did you install the accel pedal yet?

How have you solved the problem of the pedal rod hitting the clutch tube?
The travel distance is about 3cm, but I checked and on my t-body I need 6cm.

30804

[metros]

Haven't gotten that far yet. Good question. I need to look at it in person to troubleshoot.

[Aero STI]

Seeing these carbon panels makes me incredibly disappointed with the current fiberglass pieces covered with carbon that I have. Factory Five needs to make this right for everyone.

[Frank818]

Haven't gotten that far yet. Good question. I need to look at it in person to troubleshoot.

Well once you get there, plz post after you try that crappy thing out, as I am curious to see if you get the same super small travel as I get. :)

[longislandwrx]

How have you solved the problem of the pedal rod hitting the clutch tube?
The travel distance is about 3cm, but I checked and on my t-body I need 6cm.

30804

Mine hits too but I hooked up the throttle body and it goes full before hitting. I'll post a video if you don't believe me. :D

[Frank818]

I believe you (would still like a vid, though :)), maybe the travel is longer on a VW engine. Since the travel at the pedal is equal to the travel at the t-body, I don't see how I can adjust it to be shrunk in half the travel. Might be too sensitive on the pedal too. I'll try Dan's way of mounting it to the FW and see how's the travel like.

I am curious to see what metros will come up with.

[metros]

Received my APR Carbon GTC300 today! So exciting!

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140702_182155_zpsde9cpryr.jpg

Some assembly required?

[Frank818]

Wow it totally cracked in half!

[metros]

Already spoke with APR and filed a claim with UPS. I sent pictures of the box and damage to APR. They informed me that they don't use tape to secure their boxes, which means UPS taped the hell out of the box before delivering it. APR thinks the end of the box came open, wing came out, and was probably run over by something. They then put the pieces back in the box and taped it closed like crazy. From the box and damage it looks possible.

APR has been great to work with. UPS is picking the box up tomorrow and then APR is sending me a replacement. APR is going to deal with the UPS claim.

[Frank818]

Well APR looks like a really nice company! It's good to hear those stories that end up well (yours will).

The box says FRAGILE in big red letters and look at it. Kind of defeats the purpose.

You know, there are supercars with a double rear wing, you could do that. :)

[Mechie3]

Apr is lying. That's their new active aero wing. They sent it by accident and need their prototype back.

[mjazzka]

metros, I really don't think you are qualified to build this thing... you are WAY too organized! Every single photo you've posted seems to be perfectly laid out, and the effort you've put into quality is astounding! Thanks for the inspiration.

Sucks about the wing, but I'm glad they're getting that taken care of for you.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I got this can of gel coat repair and some 3000 sand paper that will fix that up like new. No paint required.

[metros]

Perfect! A weekend project and it'll be good as new.

The guy at UPS gulped when I told him the value of the part and then gulped again when I told him there was no chance of repairing it.

Mjazzka - ocd is a sickness, but sometimes has its benefits.

[metros]

3rd time is the charm!

Re-vamped the gas pedal mount for the final time! I decided to go along with the majority and mount on the firewall. However, I wasn't sure just the aluminum firewall would feel firm enough and wanted to reinforce it just to be sure. I took the mount that I had reinforced, drilled the rivets out to pop the 2 pieces apart and cut the FFR mount right above where the 2 pieces were sandwiched together. I, of course, repainted the pieces - again - and then sandwiched these 2 mounts on either side of the firewall almost as if they were large washers. Riveted all 3 layers of aluminum (mount, firewall, mount) together with silicone sandwiched between everything to prevent rattles. This should satisfy my concerns and ensure everything is stiff enough.

Pictures with next update.

Otherwise I cleaned the engine up and disassembled the alternator for cleaning/painting purposes.

At this point I think I'm going to bite the bullet and purchase the i-wire racing harness. I think I could do a fair job at dieting the stock harness mildly. That will save me a ton of man hours, diet further than I would every consider and produce a very nice product. Plus, when I eventually decide to sell the i-wire racing will be a huge selling point as everybody hates electrical gremlins and the thought of tracking them down.

Also wanted to praise the customer service at APR once again. They've already got a new wing on its way and are handling everything with UPS directly. Their communication has left nothing to be desired and overall the process has been very easy.

[GUNS]

Yea, I'm going to try and swap out my carbon pieces. Those new ones look much better.

[Frank818]

I told ya there were plenty of ways to stiffen that gas pedal. :) Happy thing you mounted it!

[metros]

I haven't had an opportunity to hook up the gas pedal yet. I want to get the cable mounted to the firewall before bolting up the gas pedal.

Alternator turned out ok. I painted the front cover and just cleaned the rear half. If I let myself get caught up in making every single part look perfect then I'll never get to drive it.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140718_121633_zpsg7n7sbiu.jpg

The engine assembly is slowly coming back together. The coolant tubes are mostly re-installed. I've come across a few things I need to continue putting the engine back together.

The intake manifold mounting bolts have been massaged to play nicely with the TGV deletes.

This week I did decide to bite the bullet and have Brian at iWire build me a custom harness. His work is very impressive and I'm looking forward to seeing the final product. It'll save me a lot of time in getting to go kart stage as well as clean up the install. 55 pounds of harness have already been shipped out. Looking forward to see what it weighs when it comes back.

[Hindsight]

Woah, had no idea the harness weighed so much!

[metros]

Build Update:

The build is finally starting to show some signs of progress. The suspension is mostly in place, front brakes are done, rears are in the process, engine is starting to come together, and the wiring harness is being built by a pro.

Engine:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140725_162056_zps2to98ilf.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140725_162038_zpsqg7jhjlk.jpg

Coolant reservoir - painted and put together with splashes from the engine color scheme (black/gold).
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140726_104126_zps281ovxls.jpg

55# box of wires: 2002 wrx wiring harness
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/20140718_093950_zpsjnlwh9dj.jpg

Unfortunately the fuel rails were previously anodized, which didn't hold the gold paint on it very well. The paint cracked and started to flake when I tightened the bolts down. Might as well get them professionally anodized gold now before the engine is in the car.

I'm happy to report the replacement APR gtc300 has arrived safely. I'm also happy that Factory Five has replaced the one out of place carbon side strake that wasn't second generation. I paid for shipping both ways (which I offered) to make it a more square deal for both of us.

The rear brakes I'm working with Wilwood on. The rears aren't designed to be adjustable and the brake pads end up being mounted with 1/8" of brake pad outside of the rotor diameter. I'm afraid down the road it'll eat up brake pads because they'll be crumbling off that extra lip continuously.

[metros]

Been a rough few weeks as far as progress goes. Last weekend I needed to revamp a few things which required me removing the intake manifold and TGV deletes - again. I have since successfully made the adjustments and put everything back together.

I didn't find a lot of easy anodizing access within the immediate area. I decided to give it another go with the paint and really put some hours into making sure the outcome was better this time. I found that using the 3m prep pads on my die grinder I could get down past the anodizing to bare aluminum without being too aggressive. Then I used the metal etching spray and overall came out with a good quality product.

Stripped:
I spent hours stripping these down to get rid of all the anodizing material on the surface. I wish I had access to a media blaster. I had to use small files to reach into the corners to make sure the paint surface was uniform.

I actually thought about keeping these bare aluminum look by just clear coating them. But the gold looks really good and is going to tie some of the exterior details into the engine bay.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140808_113446_zpsr2lx8yxz.jpg

Finished:
After being cured in the oven for an hour at 200*.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140810_152408_zps4dkzdprt.jpg

Rear Wilwood Brakes:
They're done for the time being. The final outcome of working with Wilwood on the fitment was that Wilwood wasn't going to do anything. Wilwood claims they knew the fitment wasn't perfect but chose to produce the kit using these parts due to their high volume of use within the company. This way they could keep costs low by pulling parts off their shelf instead of investing into development. Completely understandable - However, I think they could've made the kit fit perfectly if they had put just a little time into developing it, which wouldn't have taken a large financial investment.

Here is a link to the actual email and thread if you're interested in their word for word response.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?14986-Rear-Wilwood-Brake-Alignment/page2

For the time being I'll have to bevel the outer edge of the brake pads to prevent them from crumbling and killing pad life.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140810_193553_zpskjhwaeg9.jpg

Gas Pedal Mount - revision #4
One of the lucky few 818 owners that has gotten his car on track has reported back that the firewall started to separate when he got back on the gas quickly. I've revised my mount to tie into the frame on both sides to prevent deflection/separation from the frame. I'll post pictures when it's finished, again.

[AZPete]

Huh? Gas pedal mount / firewall separation / separation from the frame? Please explain more about this.

[metros]

Many of us have tossed the FFR gas pedal mount aside and decided to mount the gas pedal directly to the firewall. CPlavan or Brando (I forget which) reported that the firewall started to pull away from the frame after being on track and transitioning to the gas too hard/quickly.

The mount I'm crudely putting together will tie the frame into the gas pedal mount, which will hopefully prevent any future issues.

[metros]

Made a little bit of forward progress today.

I had planned on re-installing the freshly painted fuel rails with new lines over this weekend. However, Perrin customer service told me the wrong size fuel line 3/8 for my v1 fuel rails. So I'm awaiting 8 new 1/8 npt to 3/8 hose barb fittings to use the roll of fuel line that I purchased. It was easier this way than trying to return the fuel line for different size.

I did create some ground wires for the intake manifold to block. These were necessary because the TGV deletes are composite and prevent the lines grounding on the intake manifold from grounding through the engine block. I also neatened up a few things on the engine and set a few things in place.

The actual progress worth talking about was getting the gas pedal mount (version 4) finalized and installed as well as the cockpit aluminum panels drilled. The gas pedal mount attaches directly to the frame as well as gets riveted to the firewall. This is to prevent the previously mentioned - foot through firewall problem.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140817_152921_zps7h5zdy84.jpg

Can someone identify this line on the right hand side for me? The one with the heat shielding with blue tape on it. I need a replacement but haven't been able to verify the correct part number.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140817_152832_zpstowrqgsg.jpg

[Mechie3]

Its a coolant line for the turbo.

[Frank818]

Version 4, next version is the one where the pedal mount has concrete poured all over it, so the foot can't go through, unless you are a super hero of some sort with super powers, which you are!

[Brando]

The gas pedal mount attaches directly to the frame as well as gets riveted to the firewall. This is to prevent the previously mentioned - foot through firewall problem.

Nice. I mounted a 6" piece of 1" x 3" L bracket to the adjacent square tubing to the left of the gas pedal. That fixed the foot through firewall but then the next weakest link exposed itself.
Without too much pressure the gas pedal will bend. It's happened to me a few times now but fortunately it bends back with a half hearted tug.
That being said you might want to change to Version 5 on your pedal strategy and add a stopper under your gas pedal.

[metros]

Good idea on adding a stopper. Where is yours bending? At the top where it pulls the cable?

[Brando]

No, it bends between the fulcrum and the pedal.

[BrandonDrums]

I would highly recommend replacing the turbo oil feed line with a flexible braided ss one. The OEM hard-line is practically made for one-time use, after a couple removal/installs of the turbo and the line fatigues. Once it's weakened, even a small bump can cause it to crack pretty easily causing oil to spray everywhere and prompting a massive drop in oil pressure (don't ask me how I know).

http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Blouch-OILWRX-Oil-Feed-Line

The only issue is that the casting on the heads can have material that blocks aftermarket banjo fittings the direction that works best since the OEM fitting goes on straight up. Depending on which castings you have, you might need to dremel away some of the excess aluminum from around the oil feed output so you can properly angle the aftermarket fitting.

Also, you don't really need those turbo mounting brackets IMO. They are somewhat good for keeping some of the turbo's weight off of the up-pipe and header but they practically aren't compatible with any aftermarket turbo, I've done without mine for years with no issue. Any larger turbo will need to sit back a tad because of the larger compressor housing and those brackets would need to be altered and bent to prevent them from actually putting additional stress on the up pipe and header. You're better off supporting the down-pipe with a custom bracket that bolts onto the transmission if you're afraid about the header holding the turbo's weight than dealing with those (also IMO).

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140817_152832_zpstowrqgsg.jpg

[metros]

Thanks for the input. Just ordered an oil line as that line has been used a few times. Might as well change it now and not have to consider the current one as a potential weak point.

The advice about the turbo support I'll keep in mind. I'll have to see how everything lines up once the manifolds are on. I'm planning on using a Blouch 18g xt.

[metros]

FINALLY got all the correct fittings and fuel lines. I had the fittings last weekend and then realized I had purchased fuel line meant for carb instead of fuel injection. The carb line is only rated to 45-50psi, where the fuel injection line was rated to 225 psi. That was a must change option. Still using the barricade 3/8" fuel line and 3/8 hose barbs on the fuel rails.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140901_184333_zpsvq24uyce.jpg

^^This is what it looks like now. I still need to figure out some of the vacuum hoses and coolant lines.

Below is what I need help with:
1. (Highlighted in red) This line I have from tear down looks to connect each vacuum port on valve covers with PCV in the middle. It also has a straight connector at the end where I'm not sure where it should go. Back to the perrin turbo intake hose?

2. Coolant connections - (Highlighted in blue) 1 is passenger side pointing up between the intake manifold runners. 2 is off of the heater supply hose, also pointing straight up.

3. Fuel pressure regulator - where should I supply vacuum from for this?

4. What do I use the rest of these vacuum nipples for on the Perrin turbo inlet?

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140901_184439_zpsgzmrwjfe.jpg

Anything else that looks out of place or as if I forgot something? As you can see I'm not planning on using the evap system, which leaves most of that mess capped off.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140901_184452_zpsi4jmuj8f.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140901_184514_zpsbqb1gpwh.jpg

FYI, I have the alternator mounts trimmed down as necessary and ready to install to help move the engine into place. Then they'll be coming back off to get painted before final install.

If everything looks mostly in place then I'm going to install the clutch/flywheel and put the engine and trans in this week.

Also got around to installing some sound deadening for under the gas tank. Should prevent any squeaking between the gas tank/floor.

[metros]

Input on the vacuum lines from some of you subaru experts?

[Mechie3]

2.0L engine?

If yes, you have a single line coming off of the valve covers. These go to the hardline on the front of the intercooler which is a very long T essentially. The end of the T goes into the turbo inlet.

Pull vacuum/pressure for the FPR anywhere off the manifold. Use the now capped brake boost port.

The two small coolant connections are likely for the throttle body. Just loop these together or weld them shut. No need to heat up the throttle body.

[longislandwrx]

In a wrx the turbo inlet vacuum lines are from the boost control solenoid, valve cover vents, the evap solenoid return, and the crank case vent (also the bov return line)


what are you using for boost control?

You'll need to plug the evap one

the valve cover vent or crank case one will go to the vacuum side of your catch can.

depending on how you set up you venting, there are a lot of ways to set this up. if you are not using a catch can, use a t for valve covers to the inlet and run the crank vent from the pcv to the inlet.

[metros]

Thanks for the help fellas. This is more complicated to me because the donor came with a FMIC and many of these lines deleted or modified.

Mechie -
As I understand it:
-Each valve cover vent comes together and into the turbo inlet with 1 connection point.
-The FPR receives vacuum from the IM.
-Loop or cap the coolant lines.

That leaves me with one question. What do I do with this - green arrow. One of the rubber hoses connects to the PCV on the intake manifold. The other rubber hose goes?
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/19933a43-f542-46d9-8b36-9f58faaaaab8_zpsd2546821.jpg

I think the previous owner had it routed so that the valve cover vents and this rubber hose all went into the turbo inlet with one junction. Is that an issue or going to harm anything?

LongIsland:
I'm planning on running a catch can. But I'm anticipating that will be easier to set up once I have the basics correctly in place.

I'll be using a 3-port electric boost control solenoid.

[Mechie3]

The green line tees between the crank case vent, the PCV valve on the manifold and on the turbo inlet. Don't know offhand if you can loop all together as flow is reversed at times in different areas.

[metros]

Thanks for the help^^^

Made some decent headway this weekend. I installed the ACT light flywheel, ACT HDSS clutch, new throwout bearing and new pilot bearing. Also mated the transmission with the engine, which was more of a wrestling match than I had anticipated. Next weekend I'll be able to drop the engine/trans into the chassis and feel some accomplishment.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140905_133018_zpsny9avfaz.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140905_155353_zpsqs0yyxee.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140907_174653_zpsxikkru5k.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140907_174623_zps4kuwd49k.jpg

Feels good, man.

[metros]

Got the engine/trans into the chassis this weekend. That was extremely satisfying. The engine is by no means complete, but felt great to get it put into its final location. Now I can paint the alternator mounts and finish up a few of the vacuum hoses that haven't been finished yet. This weekend I was also able to get the throttle cable in place. I previously found that my shipped throttle cable was defective as the threads broke off while tightening the hardware onto it.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140914_151548_zpsmy5xlesc.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140914_151620_zpss1qpvihr.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140914_151701_zpss4uxd7rx.jpg

[Frank818]

Tnx for the pix metros, exactly what I needed to see at this time of my build. Couldn't be any better, absolutely perfect timing.

[metros]

I saw the fitment issues you were having. Let me know if you want any measurement or specific pictures.

[mikeb75]

very nice! Looks like you've hit a major milestone.

[metros]

Feels really good to see things actually going onto the car now instead of just on the engine stand.

This weekend I was able to make some decent progress and button up a lot of little things that weren't quite finished yet.

-Installed new OEM roll pins in the axles. Got everything to play nice together finally there too.

-Painted/Installed the modified alternator mounts.

Driver side mount remained original. Passenger side mount was trimmed considerably to clean things up.

Before:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140829_131422_zps9fyrvltv.jpg

After: Painted and mounted
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140919_152349_zpsch679ojc.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140919_152334_zpsvfshugpx.jpg

-Installed starter.

-Gas Tank - assembled the fuel pump hanger with Deatche Werks 200 and installed in gas tank. Also installed the float sensor and vent. Gas tank is almost ready for final install. Next weekend I need to build the heat shield between engine/gas tank. The actual firewall is between driver and gas tank.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140921_181657_zps8o2v2ros.jpg

[Frank818]

Nice stuff man, nice stuff, keep on coming!

[JeromeS13]

What are you using to adjust the tension on the alternator belt, since you remove the tensioner bolt?

[metros]

I have a few ideas, but haven't tested them yet.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

What are you using to adjust the tension on the alternator belt, since you remove the tensioner bolt?
On old Chevy's, You just pry it up and tighten the bolt.

[metros]

That was my first and easiest thought.

[metros]

Had a pretty productive couple of weekends. Have I mentioned how nice it is to see parts going on the car now?

Last weekend I created this heat shield/firewall that goes between the engine and gas tank. There are many cross bars in this location but nothing preventing the gas tank from getting hot due to engine heat. I designed it purposely to not reach the top bar and interfere with the actual firewall that FFR provides as well as the harnesses I'm planning on using.

Said area between gas tank and engine:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141004_184402_zps5vr0gcvq.jpg

Firewall/heatshield: Made from 18 gauge steel. The hole in the middle is to allow wiring/fuel lines to connect with the engine.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141004_184338_zps8dkq776q.jpg

Factory Five Racing Firewall:
This firewall goes between passenger compartment and gas tank. It's made from 1/8" aluminum.

Mocked up for marking and figuring out where to slot for harnesses.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141005_125319_zpsyrv7tgoc.jpg

Drilled and ready for rivnuts/powder coating.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141005_141759_zps43egrslj.jpg

Assembled and installed the last links of the rear suspension. Just have to install the Koni shocks now. Before I can do that I need to do the adjustment procedure to make sure they're set equally and appropriately.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141003_134159_zpsp9qwtpo8.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141004_184318_zpsaah0vlb8.jpg

[metros]

My harness came back in from Brian at iWire! Words cannot express the quality that goes into these harnesses. I sent out a large box packed to the brim with the stock wiring harness to the tune of 55#. I received back a completely new harness (with a few connectors re-used) built specifically for my needs. It gets rid of all the un-necessary wires, uses the correct length of brake line wiring without additional splices, organizes the fuse box in a clean manner, and comes with an incredibly sexy control panel for the cockpit. As if that wasn't enough, it also saves me a ton of labor time, which is hard to come by nowadays.

Received box of wires:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141004_184050_zpspsp0ti1e.jpg

Control panel:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141004_134158_zpsttxr7fs7.jpg

From this:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20140717_205211_zpshbykgobk.jpg

To this:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/iWireharness2_zps5a679fbc.jpg

[metros]

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/iWireharness6_zps9b171166.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/iWireharness4_zpsc8efb947.jpg

I love helping my Dad.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/ColtonwithBreezy_zpsc3c54412.jpg

[metalmaker12]

Very nice harness

[Frank818]

I love helping my Dad.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/ColtonwithBreezy_zpsc3c54412.jpg

Watch out, you think he's helping but check his hands! Perfectly clean! I say he's cheating on you. :)
And the dog doesn't care about all that.

[STiPWRD]

Great progress man, had a chance to use that eastwood brake flaring tool yet? I'm getting close to running the brake lines and was hoping to borrow it for a weekend.

[metros]

Haven't had an opportunity to use it yet. I'm trying to get everything necessary in place first so I know what I need to work around. You're still welcome to borrow it to run your lines.

[STiPWRD]

Great, I'll email you. Just wanted to make sure I didn't hold you up.

[iWire]

My harness came back in from Brian at iWire! Words cannot express the quality that goes into these harnesses. I sent out a large box packed to the brim with the stock wiring harness to the tune of 55#. I received back a completely new harness (with a few connectors re-used) built specifically for my needs. It gets rid of all the un-necessary wires, uses the correct length of brake line wiring without additional splices, organizes the fuse box in a clean manner, and comes with an incredibly sexy control panel for the cockpit. As if that wasn't enough, it also saves me a ton of labor time, which is hard to come by nowadays.

Glad you're happy Jason! Let me know how the install goes.


Very nice harness

:D

[metros]

It's been awhile since I've updated my build. I've been working along throughout just slow progress.

I've further modified the rear firewall so that it can be removed without removing the gas tank. That way if I need to work on the front of the engine it's doable without too much work to reach the area. I've added slots on either side to allow more routes of wiring/lines between the passenger area and engine. I've also used DEI reflecta gold on the engine side to reflect heat and protect the gas tank area.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141031_161209_zpsahm1p4jb.jpg

I finally decided to pick up the killer bee oil pan. There have been some issues with engine durability while on track. I'm using this pan for the additional oil volume and better capability of keeping the oil near the pick up. The build quality of the oil pan was top notch as well.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141107_100827_zpsk5mtgy95.jpg

Installed:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141115_164335_zpspme0zdgs.jpg

Once that was decided upon and installed I could install the Grimmspeed exhaust manifolds that I ordered forever ago. I'm using the larger cross pipe and grimmspeed up-pipe as well. All of these parts have been coated with ceramic coating to keep heat inside the manifold and improve spool. I decided against heat wrapping as well due to the breakdown of ceramic coatings when wrapped. Hopefully this will be enough to really cut down on the engine bay heat and noticeably improve spool.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141115_164327_zpsejuaat82.jpg

Insert turbo here:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141115_164251_zpskikjc8vv.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141115_164357_zpsuecnpuij.jpg

Gas tank is in place and shouldn't have to come out again.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141115_164224_zpsqwcsbz4c.jpg

[metros]

Dead pedal area on driver side and passenger side have come back from powdercoating and have been installed. I'm planning on dressing these up with STi dead pedals.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141115_164423_zpsslqznzkt.jpg

Brake and clutch cylinders installed:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141115_164210_zpsboecsjay.jpg

You can also see that the steering column is now installed. I shortened the column by an inch and used Rori's billet aluminum spacer to give the driver a bit more room. Starting to look like a car!

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141115_164156_zpsygfy3pys.jpg

Recently I had the opportunity to visit another local 818 builder and see how he ran the brake lines. Seeing another example in real life is really helpful to picture how everything will be situated. Next weekend I'm going to start work on the brake and clutch lines. I'll also be installing the Michael Eversion custom remote master reservoir and clutch line kit.

I think I'm about 75% decided on paint color. I have been planning charcoal gray all along. Factory five racing just released pictures of their new paint scheme with a satin metallic gray. I'll let the pictures do the talking.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/10258116_10152470874172336_2740534494645568875_n_z pskkf0oopq.jpg

https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/IMG_0846.jpg

[metalmaker12]

It's been awhile since I've updated my build. I've been working along throughout just slow progress.

I've further modified the rear firewall so that it can be removed without removing the gas tank. That way if I need to work on the front of the engine it's doable without too much work to reach the area. I've added slots on either side to allow more routes of wiring/lines between the passenger area and engine. I've also used DEI reflecta gold on the engine side to reflect heat and protect the gas tank area.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141031_161209_zpsahm1p4jb.jpg

I finally decided to pick up the killer bee oil pan. There have been some issues with engine durability while on track. I'm using this pan for the additional oil volume and better capability of keeping the oil near the pick up. The build quality of the oil pan was top notch as well.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141107_100827_zpsk5mtgy95.jpg

Installed:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141115_164335_zpspme0zdgs.jpg

Once that was decided upon and installed I could install the Grimmspeed exhaust manifolds that I ordered forever ago. I'm using the larger cross pipe and grimmspeed up-pipe as well. All of these parts have been coated with ceramic coating to keep heat inside the manifold and improve spool. I decided against heat wrapping as well due to the breakdown of ceramic coatings when wrapped. Hopefully this will be enough to really cut down on the engine bay heat and noticeably improve spool.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141115_164327_zpsejuaat82.jpg

Insert turbo here:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141115_164251_zpskikjc8vv.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141115_164357_zpsuecnpuij.jpg

Gas tank is in place and shouldn't have to come out again.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141115_164224_zpsqwcsbz4c.jpg

Put some gas in it, and drive around than tell me it does not have to come out.

[metros]

^^^Not sure what you're referring to.

[mikeb75]

Looking good, especially the Mtn Dew side panel!

1 question; you ran your throttle cable through one of the smaller front firewall holes. I've seen many builds running the cable through the large hole I think the instruction manual shows both FFR shifter cables using those holes. Are you using the VCP shifter kit?

[metros]

Yes, I'm using the K-tuned shifter set up. I really just stuck it through one that looked like it may be right. It's not attached to anything and I didn't check to see where it was supposed to go. That rubber boot/grommet that I have there now came from the donor throttle cable. Fits that hole perfectly.

I am a big fan of mountain dew. But those are just to protect the powder coat of interior panels when installing/removing the gas tank over and over.

[Mitch Wright]

It is hard to tell from the photo, how far blow the frame rail if any is the pan?

[metros]

I can take an exact measurement for you. I would guesstimate 1-2 inches from memory.

[Mechie3]

Chris' gas tank leaked. Mine was too big to fit and had to be cut and welded back together. I think that's what he's referring to.

[metalmaker12]

^^^Not sure what you're referring to.

Sorry, mine leaked as mech just mentioned, it was not a good moment when it occurred

[Frank818]

Sorry to hear about all these leaking, seems like a possibility for anyone, we must get prepared then.
The good news is cleaning fuel on a part or on the ground is super easy, you just light it up and it'll burn in no time.


Yeah, though it's true, plz never do it. :)

[metros]

Gotcha, didn't catch that in your build threads. I used KBS 3 step tank sealer awhile back. The entire inside of the gas tank is coated in an epoxy that was sloshed around for 30 minutes to cover every inch of the inside. Although thinking about it now it wouldn't be a bad idea to fill it with water and check for leaks.

[D Clary]

You need to use fuel or solvent to check for leaks. It will leak where water will not, something about surface cohesion.

[Frank818]

How long may it take before a leak is noticeable? If we have to wait a week, that's quite some time. But if it happens within hours, then it's easier.

[metros]

Another useful tip, thanks.

[metalmaker12]

It took some time, the welds were aweful on my tank, I just went and bought the Boyd, done deal.

[metros]

For those of you that are go karting or finished - how much clearance do you have between your driver side rear brake line/clutch line junction point (hard to flex line)? I have between 1.5 to 2" clearance with the engine at rest. Wondering if that is going to be enough once the engine is rocking and rolling. I'm thinking I'll probably put a heat sleeve over these lines to keep engine heat off of them.

Pictures:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141205_141907_zpsci45axrl.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141205_141923_zps4yd8mshm.jpg

[metros]

Completed another major milestone!

The brake and clutch lines are complete! This was my first try at running hardlines. I purchased copper/nickel lines instead of using the provided steel lines that were pre-flared. I didn't like the idea of having extra line coiled in some places as the provided lines weren't exact and needed extra connectors than necessary. The copper lines also won't rust and should provide an easier connection to ensure leak free junctions as copper will conform slightly to the fitting.

Many of you 818 builders have created perfect bent lines with perfect 90* bends where needed. The piping bender I had made more of a curve than perfect bend. If I did it again I would pick up a different bender. But for a first time I'm happy with the final product. If my OCD kicks in I can always re-make specific lines that I wasn't really satisfied with. I didn't have to use any adapters, only used the 2 t-junctions that FFR provided, and used one connector throughout the whole system.

Front Firewall:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141205_162612_zpsiq0s2gyg.jpg

Brake and clutch lines running side by side down the driver side - This was a challenging point because the coolant tubes and AWIC lines will have to run through this point as well. So space was at a premium.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141205_162641_zpsmvusqggw.jpg

Driver side of car -
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141205_162706_zpsmqupfv70.jpg

1 T-junction -
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141205_162727_zps6ws9gcwq.jpg

Running line over to the passenger side. I decided on running it here versus under the engine as I thought it would be further out of the way. Plus it may keep it a little further from heat sources.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141205_162745_zpsky25tvdg.jpg

Put the front nose piece on! Next comes radiator/AWIC heat exchanger and coolant lines.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141207_125917_zpsnqzxwjps.jpg

Clutch line - Mike Everson products displayed here! This allows you to sling this out of the way in the event of removing the engine. I'm all about preventing hard work in the future with careful planning now. I angled my line a little different than Mike planned but I think it'll be further away from issue here than how he had it positioned.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141207_132706_zpskx2d1rzj.jpg

Today feels good. A little closer to getting to go karting stage.

[Frank818]

Same here, brakes lines where the AWIC lines should run, but I am seriously thinking of routing them both on the passenger's side. I'll see. Any reason why you need to do it on the driver's side?

[metros]

The state of affairs:
I've been lacking posting updates through the crazy holiday and surgery recovery. I had a hernia repaired and have taken longer to recover than I had anticipated. Now that I'm healthy again I can return to work.

I left off having just installed the nose piece for radiator/heat exchanger. I've since started the mounting process. The radiator is completed but disassembled while I work on mounting the heat exchanger. These heat exchanger mounts may or may not be something pretty trick that a FFR forum local designed. Keep an eye out for updates.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150111_121134_zpsc7chu8xm.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20141219_104753_zpsrrbrrppu.jpg

I've since switched from a Cobb LW crank pulley to a Fluidamper crank pulley. See also, finishing the alternator install with belt. I ended up purchasing the piece that Mike Everson sells (turnbuckle) to mount the passenger side of the alternator and tension the belt properly.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150117_144625_zps1vyoxaip.jpg

I also installed Mike Everson's remote reservoir. Going to wait until I mount the windshield wiper motor to mount the reservoir to. I'll trim the lines to length then.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150117_144604_zpsktztqkhy.jpg

Now the COOL stuff! Got the turbo hooked up this weekend. I ended up having to clearance the cold side of the turbo housing a mm or two so everything could line up nicely on the up-pipe studs. Taking an angle grinder with flapper wheel disc to an $1800 turbo is sketchy. I really took my time and went very slowly with frequent re-fitting to keep exactly where I needed to be.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150117_134502_zps6ueagskm.jpg

Installed:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150117_144427_zpsyouzi4ev.jpg

[metros]

I'm using a Blouch 18g-xt with 8cm housing. Had the hotside ceramic coated by Blouch and am using a DEI turbo blanket. The exhaust manifolds and up-pipe were all ceramic coated by Grimmspeed before they stopped that service. I'm hoping to get full spool on this motor/turbo by 3500 rpm or sooner. I'm hoping all these extras with the extremely short exhaust 'system' I can get there.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150117_144536_zpsgi04bz4y.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150117_144508_zps7kyyndje.jpg

Next up I need to finish my heat exchanger mounting, run the coolant lines, and finish the gas tank/firewall permanently. My Bimarco Futura seats should be here any day. Within the next month I'll be strapping on a nice set of wheels and tires. Lots of exciting steps to be taken.

Working on Dad's car makes me hungry!

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150112_180635_zps3jye5qcl.jpg

...and sometimes crazy!

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150103_174355_zpssl5k9xss.jpg

[metros]

This weekend I was able to get the radiator and AWIC heat exchanger mounted. I'm using a CSF Racing radiator that my local speed shop (Mach V) turned me on to. For the heat exchanger I'm using VCP AWIC kit with Craig's Zero Decibel Motorsports mounts. Overall came out looking good and with good placement of the heat exchanger. With the ZDB mounts you don't need an extension on the top 90* elbow, which means less points of potential leaking.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150124_151802_zpsdyupai0e.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150124_151730_zpsqcn15ovo.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150124_151748_zpstbpmvnou.jpg

I also adjusted the Koni shocks to my liking in preparation for install. I'm using the 818R shocks which are rebound adjustable.

If you're using the red 818R shocks then this is the button that you need to hold down while adjusting. With these shocks you don't need to compress the piston.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150124_162712_zpsgw7hahar.jpg

Hoping to finish the coolant system next weekend. Potentially a work closing snowstorm on Monday, which means I might be able to sneak some extra garage time in.

Starting to get close to putting fluids in.

[Mechie3]

Thanks for test fitting these. :). Production parts should be available late this week or the beginning of next week.

[Frank818]

Ouch, the top barb fitting is more than tight. Mines are straight, I wonder how I'll make it...

[Mechie3]

Production versions added an extra .2" of clearance. Straight won't make it. If the HE was centered then you need to bend the hoses and risk kinking them. The side of the subframe has aluminum covering the end as well.

[metros]

Well, haven't had any luck with getting build days contributed via snowstorm. I have had many sick kid days that I'd like to avoid again in the future.

I've finished running the coolant lines. I decided instead of using the corrugated tubing to make the sharp turn on each side in the rear that I would purchase an additional upper radiator hose and use those corners in the rear. Worked well thus far. Critiques?

Driver Side
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150215_151959_zpss3d6vi3g.jpg

Passenger side
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150215_152050_zpskbtbjafc.jpg

Around steering rack
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150215_152021_zpsuv6wrwgn.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150215_152036_zpshaxnizii.jpg

Also, got the 2wd conversion going. I was able to complete all the necessary changes and torque trans nut back to 87 ft/lb. However, the damn upper race wouldn't pop out. Feels like it was pressed in, once I figure something out for that then it's ready to be buttoned up again.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150214_123933_zpsab2tfqv9.jpg

All finished, waiting for the cover after upper race is removed.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150215_151841_zpsrustcb79.jpg

Still working on figuring out the rear trailing arm alignment of driver side. Haven't gotten everything to play nice together yet.

[JeromeS13]

Have you tried fitting the side sails on with the current location of the coolant tubes? They look like they may interfere...

[tmoretta]

I agree, they look too high to me also.

[icky]

Comming along nicely, one thing that may help in spool is also coating the oem heatsheilds and installing them. Anything to keep fast flowing air from the header surface.

[metros]

What's the highest they should be? If only there were a document that informed builders of this important information as they went along.

[C.Plavan]

Those will hit the side body it looks like.

[JeromeS13]

What's the highest they should be? If only there were a document that informed builders of this important information as they went along.

From what I recall, the build manual states no higher than 5" from the bottom?

[tmoretta]

I found that 5 inches was a conservative figure. Best to trial fit with the side sails.

[Frank818]

Metros, be careful with your AWIC drain plug, if you tighten it too much, the o-ring will stretch and rip off. Don't ask how I know.

[metros]

Update: The upper race is still firmly in place. It doesn't spin/move in any way with heat or not. It really feels like the race was pressed into place. The trans I purchased used but has been built by Andrewtech with PPG gears. Do you think they would press that race into place?

I attempted to use an air chisel to cut the race in half but it put an imprint on the chisel bit instead of getting cut in half.

I don't have access to a Tig welder, so my next thought it so braze it in place. Thoughts? My brother in law is helping me with that. He has an acetelyne torch to get it to temperate (400*).

Good idea or bad idea?

[Hindsight]

Why don't you just pull the tail cone off and tap it off from the back side?

Another option would be to drill a hole in it, tap the hole, put a bolt in there, then attach the bolt to a slide hammer. I think removing the tail cone is the best option.

[metros]

From what I'm looking at it doesn't look like removing the tail would give me access to the backside of the race. Am I wrong in that assumption?

I'm not sure I could get a drill bit to bite into it, it's considerably stronger than what I've been using on it.

[STiPWRD]

Removing the rear casing is easy and will give you better access to the race. Also it will prevent metal shavings from getting into the rest of the trans. I have PPG gears installed by Andrewtech and my race fell right out.

I'm not sure if the torch would work but it's worth a shot. Another option is to just buy another rear casing section and replace your old one.

[Hindsight]

If you don't have access to the area behind the racing (though if I recall correctly you should), you could always drill through the back of the casing behind the race (with the tailcone removed) until you hit the race. Do that in two spots and then use a bunch to tap it out. The holes you leave behind won't be an issue.

[metros]

Both good ideas. Welding shop wasn't open today so that gives me more time/opportunities to get this taken care of before attempting to braze.

Going to look up some diagrams for the tail housing and see if that sheds any light on what access removing it will provide.

[RM1SepEx]

Just leave the race in... If it eventually falls out it can't do any damage, it will just flop around in the bottom of that empty space???

[metros]

I worry about that because what if it bounces just right and makes it through the opening into the main trans gears. I need to measure if that's possible between the 2 measurements.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I worry about that because what if it bounces just right and makes it through the opening into the main trans gears. I need to measure if that's possible between the 2 measurements.

Metros
You can take the housing off and drill a hole through the housing where I marked in the picture below.
Then use a punch to knock the race out.
Bob
38945

[metros]

I would guesstimate that I'll have spent between $30k-40k when it's all finished. That will include paint and all the upgrades detailed throughout the build. To date I've recouped around $6500 from the donor, which I spent just over $7k for. Starting with a $10k kit is great but it really adds up when you start looking at all the toys and add ons available. However, I think once finished - the car will far exceed other cars in the $30-40k category.

Updates:
I re-routed the coolant lines to better stay within the alotted space for body. I also included an adapter to tap a coolant temp sensor in with. There is still a slope upwards toward the engine to help get the air out of the system.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150228_103841_zpsjbdvczva.jpg

Adapter with tape over the threaded opening.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150228_103914_zpstdxczgjx.jpg

Purposely left extra slack in the lines to allow for engine movement.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150228_103923_zpsgsachvzn.jpg

I've also got the driver side rear suspension sorted out. I had to 'adjust' the tabs on the modified rear trailing arms that I purchased from Wayne at VeryCoolParts. These trailing arms allow for wider wheels/tires in the rear, which I'll need.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150228_103904_zpsih9mny1z.jpg

Speaking of wheels/tires - The wheels and tires have been purchased. I was anticipating picking them up today. However, UPS didn't deliver the tires on time and I think I'll have to wait until next week. I'm using Yoko AD08R tires - 235/40/17 up front and 265/35/18 on the rear.

The wheels themselves are Mach V Motorsports 'awesome' and 'wicked awesome'. These are a flow-form casted wheel that come in at 17.8lbs for the 17x9 +42 fronts and 19lbs for the 18x9.5 +42 rear wheel. I chose the gold version, which I think will look good on the white gel coat body or the paint color I'm thinking of. Really looking forward to seeing what this thing looks like with meaty wheels and tires on it.

http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0277/9175/products/5794_retina_large.jpg?v=1418394245

[metros]

Gauges:
I've been waiting for my gauges to arrive for several weeks. I ordered SPA dual gauges, which have 2 digital read outs per gauge, hence the name. The company has notified me to let me know that the sensors are what they're waiting for. Until I have those gauges I can't put fluids in the car and check for leaks. Although I've got plenty of other things to work on while I'm waiting.

2wd Conversion:
Per my last update - I've been working on converting the awd car to 2wd, which in it's current orientation will be RWD - even though it's using the front axles in that location. My last update left off with a bearing race that wouldn't budge. I decided not to braze that in place and take the next section of transmission off instead. That allowed me to drill a hole through the aluminum wall on the backside of the bearing race and beat it out with a punch. I missed on the first drill location by a hair, but placed the 2nd drill in the exact location it needed to be. I don't anticipate the 2 additional 1/8" holes will cause any issues. I can now rest assured that the bearing race won't pop out while I'm on track or driving on the street.

Sometimes this is necessary - the backside of the trans extension and the offending race. I win.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150227_105014_zpsdjgzk176.jpg

Said race - It is completely unscatched regardless of the many different strategies I used to get it out. I think I'm going to try to re-use this somewhere in the car for something else. It'll make a neat little accent that I know the background on.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150227_120247_zpswvlwdv1n.jpg

I'm glad to have the trans buttoned back up. Transmission work is beyond my paygrade. I'm glad the work I did have to do was straight forward and didn't require in depth trans work. Now I can go back to pretending that there are mystical gnomes turning cranks inside the trans.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150227_151132_zps2cqivtzx.jpg

This week I also sent out and received back my donor cluster. I requested the help of 'K3LAG' to prepare my gauge for my 'new' car. Now when I turn it over for the first time it'll have a fresh start. Larry (K3LAG) was very easy to work with. Kept me updated and got it sent back to me promptly. Not to mention very reasonably priced for the service.
Before:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/Odometer%20start_zpsoxrjymgq.jpeg

After:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/Odometer%20refreshed_zpswel8l2f5.jpeg

[metros]

Next on the list before I can fire it up:

-Mount AWIC and run lines to the front heat exchanger.
-Finish odds and ends of cooling system (mount upper tank, run a few hoses).
-Install gas filler and fuel lines to the engine.
-Install shifter/shift cables
-Lay in the iWire harness
-Attach throttle cable
-Add fluids and check for leaks (brake fluid, coolant, AWIC coolant, oil, trans)

I've got my eye out for some upcoming spring weather that I won't be feeling well enough to waste a day at work. Spring fever is real, right?

Everyone I know keeps asking when it will be done and if it'll be a driving car this year. My only answer is that it must be done this year. I need it to be done for warm weather this year. I can't handle another summer without a fun car to drive.

[Tamra]

Great progress!

[metros]

^^^Thanks.

Slow but sure is about where I'm at with progress. It's getting there, just slowly. Having some degree of OCD during a car build does not help.

[Frank818]

I would guesstimate that I'll have spent between $30k-40k when it's all finished.

Considering the current exchange rate, mine is going to cost about the same. So I am not that off, tnx for posting your WAG.

[metros]

Box from halfway around the world waiting for me on the doorstep when I got home from work. I love it when a plan comes together.

[Mechie3]

Overnight parts from Japan?

http://i40.tinypic.com/106d8r7.jpg

[metros]

Some weekends working on this car you just feel like you're getting things done and crossing things off the list. Feels good, man.

Over the past 2 weeks I've had several big parts arrive, which really makes getting through the workday much harder. OCD checking the UPS tracking and finding 'out for delivery' makes for a great quitting time from work.

The most exciting new parts I've received are the Mach V Motorsports 'Awesome' and 'wicked awesome' wheels. The 'awesome' wheels are 17x9, +42 offset and 17.8 lbs. The 'wicked awesome' wheels are 18x9.5, +42, and 19 lbs. Obviously I'll be using the wider wheels in the rear. I'll be using Yoko AD08R tires 235/40/17 and 265/35/18.

Anytime I purchase a new set of wheels I seal them prior to installation. It really goes a long way in keeping them perfect. Here are the steps I use:
1. Degrease with Meguires all purpose degreaser/cleaner - inside of barrel, face of wheel, inside/outside tire.
2. Apply Prima Wheel Armour, which is a sealant specifically for wheels.
3. Follow up with last step product of your choice. I like Menzerna Powerlock and Prima Hydro. They both leave a wet appearance and add a lot of slickness.
4. Apply Adam's RTV to inside/outside of tire face and buff off. I also hit the valve stem with this product. This product is usable on rubber or vinyl trim and leaves a matte finish once buffed off. Plus it's waterproof and lasts several washes before re-application.

If you're lucky, you'll have someone playing supervisor to make sure you didn't miss any spots.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150306_165603_zpsisb9o4w2.jpg

Once all that has been completed the wheels are ready for installation.

Here's what they look like in the sun after all that love.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150313_115137_zpsw1pg9inc.jpg

Room light:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150313_115047_zpsjzbcgn97.jpg

Installed!
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150313_130909_zpsmbjpeik6.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150313_130948_zpswffon0p2.jpg

Rear wheels look meaty
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150313_131101_zpsczpy6svs.jpg

Front wheels installed:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150313_130743_zpsoioroace.jpg

[metros]

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150313_131207_zpsvwplcrsb.jpg

Both front wheels just barely clear the firewall when turned lock to lock. The driver side there is probably a credit card width and the passenger side is probably 1/8". I was checking clearance with/without a spacer. The driver side (less clearance) had a 10mm spacer and the passenger side (more clearance) had no spacer. I plan to adjust the front suspension to add a little caster, which should provide a little more clearance. Of course, this isn't speaking to body interference, which I'll have to work with later down the road.

Driver side at full lock:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150313_125909_zpsk9mremzs.jpg

Passenger side full lock.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150313_130007_zps4objcdk2.jpg

This week I also received a few more crucial parts for the build.

I finally received the Bimarco Futura seats I ordered back in early December. They're FIA rated and reasonably priced. Fit me perfectly as well, which is the main reason I ordered them.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150308_111841_zpsukl3kdxp.jpg

I also received the SPA Dual gauges that I ordered awhile ago. I'll have 2 gauges that will display oil temp/water temp and boost pressure/oil pressure. They're digital and have a ton of great features. I like them primarily because you get more information with less gauges cluttering the car.

This weekend I was able to address a lot of odds and ends that needed to be taken care of.
-Installed the Mishimoto thermostatic oil sandwich plate - for oil cooler duty.
-Install the sensors/probes for the temp gauges I'll be running.
-Checked and re-checked the appropriate coolant lines were capped or looped and clamps were tight.
-Installed wheels - the rears I'll need a larger spacer than what I had on hand. I'm anticipating a 15mm spacer for the rear. The fronts fit without spacers with varying levels of clearance with the fire wall.
-Mocked up shift cables, mocked up shifter position, installed shifter into chassis - just need to finish cable installation.
-Set a seat in place.
-Trimmed rear brake pads and installed.

[metros]

Shifter - *drool*
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150314_144953_zpstcn5x2bv.jpg

Cables in place in the rear: Using Rori's cable mounts and shift arm.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150314_145008_zps2zk7x3os.jpg

Seat in place with shifter. There were many vroom vroom noises to be had.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150314_121414_zpssld8hcmu.jpg

I'm questioning whether I should switch to the Boyd fuel tank for additional leg room. If I didn't have the gas tank done, firewall powdercoated, and everything ready to go - then I think I would be switching. I'm still considering it though. That leaves me the issue of finding a place with a brake press large enough to re-bend the firewall to take advantage of the additional spacer. Plus getting it re-powdercoated.

Next up:
-Installing the AWIC and running the lines - Need to sort out putting a fitting into the AWIC to allow burping of the system.
-Putting the beautiful iWire harness in place.
-Fluids
-Fuel lines
-WIndshield Frame & installing remote reservoir to fiberglass frame.
-Bleed Brakes

[Hindsight]

I wear about a 32" inseam pant and I feel pretty good with where I am from a leg-room standpoint using the OE tank. Part of it is that I have my seat tipped back as far as it will go for broomstick clearance. That changes the leg dynamics a bit and makes more bend normal.

Your build is coming along very nice. I think I'm going to have to get me one of those shift arms from Rori. Do you think you'll need to do any bod mods in the rear to fit those tires? They look huge! Can't believe they are only one size larger than the FFR suggested 255.

[metros]

You're right, I do still need to adjust the rake of the seat. Hopefully that will free up just a little more room. Once I'm seated I'm fairly comfortable, but climbing in and out is challenging right now. More reinforcement for getting back into working out as it is starting to get warmer.

Once the car is registered I'm getting an aftermarket steering wheel to provide a little more room for enter/exit.

Body work - I'm not really sure yet. Being just one size bigger than the recommended, I'd like to say no. But I won't really know until I start fitting the body.

I would highly recommend Rori's shift arm. Way simpler and cleaner than what FFR provides. His cable routing brackets are spot on as well.

[Frank818]

Metros, you're front wheels barely clearing out the FW, is that with a proper wheel alignment or not yet?

[metros]

Not even close to a proper alignment. Plus I haven't done any of the modifications for free caster. I think once I add a little caster then I'll have enough clearance to breath easily.

[ph1tnessjunk1e]

Sick wheels man, looking awesome!!! Those rear wheels are so wide :)

[STiPWRD]

Once the car is registered I'm getting an aftermarket steering wheel to provide a little more room for enter/exit.

Is there a requirement in VA for a certain size steering wheel? I haven't seen this mentioned so far, plus I already bought a smaller steering wheel and sold the old one.

[metros]

To be honest, I'm not sure. I'm keeping the stock wheel initially just for appearances. When I tried to seek out information on registering a kit car I came across nothing but vague information. The DMV directed me to contact a state trooper via email. He reported that my kit car needs to have everything a new car would have. I've done my best to try to think ahead and used DOT approved brake lines, etc. Registering the car is one thing that will be high anxiety for me.

[metalmaker12]

Looks fantastic!!! My son likes the wheels too.

[STiPWRD]

To be honest, I'm not sure. I'm keeping the stock wheel initially just for appearances. When I tried to seek out information on registering a kit car I came across nothing but vague information. The DMV directed me to contact a state trooper via email. He reported that my kit car needs to have everything a new car would have. I've done my best to try to think ahead and used DOT approved brake lines, etc. Registering the car is one thing that will be high anxiety for me.
Yea I'm not looking forward to registering either but from what I've read and remember speaking about with someone from the DMV, at the minimum you'll need to pass inspection and emissions. Inspection stations have a checklist of the basic items needed like head lights, catalytic converter, no exhaust leaks, no brake line leaks, enough tire tread etc... as well as wipers and a defroster. I've talked to at least one inspection station that has done a cobra kit car before (but this won't necessarily be the same) so they're familiar with kit cars. For emissions, you'll need to pass the same requirements as the model year car of the motor you're using - 2002 wrx in my case. So essentially I'll have to not show any ECU codes and am supposed to have all the related emissions equipment. I'm hoping to get by without all the emissions stuff (other than the cat and vapor canister) on the car and suppressing the codes with Rom Raider. Once the car is inspected and passes emissions, hopefully it will be straight forward to register the 818 by showing FFR certificate of origin and receipt for the motor (I'm using a 2.5L block). I'm sure I'll have to pay some taxes.

You're car is looking great by the way.

[Tamra]

The DMV directed you to a state trooper? Weird... do they not have an inspections department? Where do you go to get inspected? I would try to reach out to the place that inspects the car.

In CT they have a list of requirements. A defroster is not necessary on an open cockpit car. I would be worried what the trooper said about having "everything that a new car would have." Does that mean airbags, abs, etc.? Those are not required where we are.

[tebriel]

That sounds similar to WI. No one has registered one here yet, but it appears that at the very least you need all the same emissions and safety equipment from the donor engine's model year. So ABS, air bags, no error codes, etc.

[metros]

I'm hoping to avoid anything to do with ABS. Hopefully that isn't one of the requirements as that would set me back a ways.

Build updates:

Last weekend I was tied up inside all weekend for a continuing ed course. Sitting and staring at how beautiful it was outside and how perfect a day for garage work it would be.

This weekend I took a lot of backwards steps to move forward.

I discovered that hand tightening the rear axle nuts would prevent the axle from turning easily. Prior to install I had new bearings installed at all 4 corners and didn't know wha the potential cause could be. After posting for help on the FFR forum it was deemed a probable inner seal flipped in reverse causing the binding. I took both rear suspensions apart to remove the rear axles and found both rear seals were oriented correctly. Without the axle nut on both sides turn freely. I decided to tighten the axle nut hand tight and see how much force it took to turn it. Both sides seemed to loosen up the more I spun the axle with the torque wrench. After a few revolutions it now takes 20 ft/lb of force to turn the axle via the axle nut (center of rotating mass). I can now also turn each side by hand (although some force) with the axle nut tightened down much harder. At this point I'm going to leave it as is and see how it behaves after I get to go karting. If a spin around the block doesn't loosen things up to my comfort level then I'll take them back to the shop for a double check.

I also had to re-install the fuel pump/hanger assembly. For some reason when putting it all together the first time I oriented the outlets to the passenger side. However, the driver side is where they needed to be pointed. That required removing the fuel pump/disassembling and re-assembling in the opposite orientation. That was the only way I could get the hanger to lay the sock filter inside the tank correctly. Once this was taken care of I installed the fuel filter and ran the rubber lines. Way back while prepping the engine I upgraded all the fuel rail lines to 3/8" lines. I continued that thought process and upgraded the tank to filter to engine fuel lines to 3/8" as well.

I used Robb MC Fuel filters that are re-buildable and filter down to 10 microns. They also come with 3/8" inlet/outlets which made this easy. As recommended here on the FFR forum. Thanks!

See: http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/filters.html

Fuel filter
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150329_142210_zpsj4iijvzm.jpg

Tank and lines
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150329_142155_zpsl8q2pzh9.jpg

The shifter cables have been run through the engine and are in place for the shifter. I slide some 1" heat sleeve around the cables to keep them bundled together and also provide some additional heat protection.

See maroon cable covers here:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150329_142220_zps6klmyssn.jpg

I ordered a 1/2" npt tap to correct the threads in the oil pan for my oil temp sensor. I needed to use a 1/2 npt to 1/8 npt adapter plug. I wrapped the 1/2 threads with teflon tape - evidently too much teflon tape. Ended up messing half way of the threads up as well as the adapter. That's a rough way to start the weekend.

Last time in the garage I installed the mishimoto thermostatic sandwich plate for my oil cooler. Evidently the stock sized oil filter is just a hair too wide for the sandwich plate and leaked some remaining oil from the engine all over the garage floor. Anybody here using the same sandwich plate have issues with the oil filter fitting correctly?

I also am still in search of the clutch/flywheel cover? Patrick Olsen was kind enough to volunteer a piece that looked like the correct part but doesn't encompass everything I anticipated.

Here is what I'm looking at.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150328_140019_zpsazvtfevl.jpg

That seems like too much left uncovered to the elements. What am I missing?

Is part number 30216 in the below link what I'm looking for? Thanks again to Patrick for offering the part and providing some help on locating a part number.
http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_200...11-011-01.html

[Mechie3]

You copied a truncated link and not the full link.

It's part #10 in this link:

http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g11/type_12/engine/flywheel/illustration_1/

Cover complete-clutch housing 30216AA020

[metros]

Over the past few weeks I've done a lot of little things that needed finishing to button up some areas.

-Installed fuel filler and lower firewall. I initially had rivnuts installed and ready to go to bolt the lower firewall to the floor. After getting them in I wanted something more stout, so I drilled those all out and used 1" grade 8 bolts through the floor (pointing up) with a washer/nut on top. At this point I may do the same with the upper firewall, or may stay with the rivnuts.

I also added a fuel tank strap to ensure the tank stays in place. I cut off the FFR mounting tabs awhile back because they kept getting in the way when I was installing/removing.

Getting the fuel tank filler to play required removal/reinstallation of aforementioned fire wall and gas tank installation. I love practicing removal/reinstallation.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150411_162412_zpsbqohfy6y.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150411_162500_zpsdogayc3n.jpg

-Added some DEI reflectagold to the underside of the AWIC to help keep engine heat out of the intercooler. Bling blang!

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150410_153436_zpspihy843z.jpg

-Installed previously discussed flywheel/clutch cover. That looks better.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150411_164600_zpsbs5x4hu2.jpg

-Mounted the AWIC pump in the front. I opted for mounting on the driver side instead of passenger side as the outlet will be pointing in the correct direction.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150412_153214_zpsad4qmyw0.jpg

-I also took care of a lot of the vacuum hoses/vent lines that weren't yet completed. I just need to source a new OEM or aftermarket Samco bypass hose as my turbosmart BPV will be plumbed back into the intake. Once I have that installed then I can start hooking the AWIC core up.

-I have the intake planned out and parts coming to complete that. I'm going to have the filter sit inside the hump for a fresh air source.

-Hooked up the throttle line to throttle body. Started a mount for a gas pedal stop so I don't bend the gas pedal when at WOT.

[metros]

This weekend started off full of hope and anticipation of some solid garage time. However, last week a promotion opened up that I'll need to interview for. I'm also competing with my wife for the position. That dictated new interview clothes, practicing interview questions, and polishing my resume/cover letter/goal page. All of which sucked up a ton of time. On top of that I had a lot of housework to tackle like washing the cars, oil changes, yardwork etc. I've got to get back to working outside after work on the weeknights so it doesn't get in the way of more important things.

Anyway:

Mocked up my gas pedal stop. Just need a long bolt/allthread with a piece on the end to provide the actual stop. See aluminum piece - when the gas pedal is pressed the center of the pedal is at that height.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150419_130534_zpsohihoohw.jpg

Got the bypass valve hose in, which meant I could button a lot of things up.

Mocked up the AWIC core/tubing. Here's how it sits right now. I'm not 100% happy with how everything is fitting. It currently sits 9" above the cross bar, which seems like it may interfere with the engine cover. Maybe someone who is done can confirm the amount of room from cross bar to engine cover for me. I'm considering swapping things around in a different orientation. Open to suggestions from others.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150419_130338_zpsqjx6ring.jpg

Turbosmart re-circ valve
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150419_130501_zpsqv875ijp.jpg

Also put a couple gallons of gas in the tank this weekend. Checking for leaks frequently to make sure I'm good. However, I am confident in the gas tank sealer that I used way back. KBS tank sealer is designed for use on tanks severely rusted and can seal tanks with pinholes. Hopefully it'll keep all the gas on the inside.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

It currently sits 9" above the cross bar, which seems like it may interfere with the engine cover. Maybe someone who is done can confirm the amount of room from cross bar to engine cover for me.

Metros,
Here is Metalmakers support bar. It shows 8" above bottom bar of shock tower support.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?10991-Metalmaker-s-build-thread-begins&p=179568&viewfull=1#post179568

Bob

[Frank818]

Oh wait, you had to remove the gas tank to fit the fuel filler? Why? I just installed my tank after hours of swearing, back pain, hand scratched, etc. I won't ever remove my damn tank (unless is leaks). I have the rubber installed already at the bottom where the hole is for the filler, I just need to put the alu tube and that's it. Did you remove the tank cuz the rubber was not on yet or just to fit the alu tube?

[metros]

I had to remove the tank because the filler coupler wasn't in place yet. I found it was too tight against one of the cross members to allow the rubber coupler to slide on.

Thanks for the link, Bob. Looks like I've got some re-adjusting to do.

[metalmaker12]

Nice build !

[metros]

^^^Thanks!

This weekend I was able to re-arrange the intercooler piping to something more height friendly. Only piece I still need to acquire is a 45* connection between the 3" intercooler outlet and 2.75" throttle body. Purchased one from Pegasus racing and the quality is not great. I'm going to contact Wayne from VCP and pick one up.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150424_162230_zps98ekvznk.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150424_162240_zpscetcv6rt.jpg

Also started laying the harness in over the weekend. I have to say how happy I am that I purchased the iWire harness. What could be a bird's nest of wiring, is instead a neat bundle of wires with correct lengths and new loom throughout.

Laying out in the sun to warm everything up.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150424_132042_zps325qlocg.jpg

Ease it in
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150424_162216_zpssgbmx8zl.jpg

Fuse boxes mounted:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150426_141354_zpsiqwapcnh.jpg

The engine bay gets 2 bundles that travel along the angled bars above the hole in the firewall. 1 bundle goes to each side of the engine. Can't keep wiring any neater than that.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150426_141320_zps09anlwfx.jpg

I need to source a 1.75" grommet for front firewall and can then feed the wires through the front firewall. Otherwise, just need to keep tracing things and routing them correctly.

[metros]

I wasn't sure if I should post these questions here or in the iWire thread. Decided upon here to keep the other thread clutter free.

Looking for some info on plugs that I'm not sure where to put.

Along with the cluster plugs there is a 4th white plug as pictured here:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150502_124036_zpsym7ksqdq.jpg

Same general area - front/dash area:
White plastic case with 2 white plugs and lone red wire with it's own black plug.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150502_124014_zpssklsmeyb.jpg

The following 2 pictures go together.

I'm seeing the OBDII plug, 2 green connectors (used when flashing the ecu) and individual plug that seems homeless.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150502_124358_zpsxblsqvro.jpg

Nearby, coming from the steering wheel:
The yellow one won't be used as it's the airbag. But the other 3 haven't found partners yet.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150502_124347_zpsen4e0zsn.jpg

Brian - Help!

Whoops, 1 more.

This is the passenger side rear of engine harness. One is the second o2 sensor, the other 3 I'm not certain of.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150502_123936_zpszuwcgsis.jpg

[Mechie3]

Last photo blue is boost solenoid and the wide black is the maf. The two white plugs remind me of the radio and HVAC plugs. Check my wiring thread. It has photos and names of every connector in an 06. Many cars are similar if not identical.

[iWire]

I wasn't sure if I should post these questions here or in the iWire thread. Decided upon here to keep the other thread clutter free.

Looking for some info on plugs that I'm not sure where to put.

Along with the cluster plugs there is a 4th white plug as pictured here:
Hazard button

Same general area - front/dash area:
White plastic case with 2 white plugs and lone red wire with it's own black plug.
Horn trigger, goes to wiring coming from the clock spring. 3 white plugs to the underside the steering wheel for turns/lights/wiper (take off the clam shell and you'll see it)

The following 2 pictures go together.

I'm seeing the OBDII plug, 2 green connectors (used when flashing the ecu) and individual plug that seems homeless.
It's the initialization connector, you should get a jumper with the reflashing tool

Nearby, coming from the steering wheel:
The yellow one won't be used as it's the airbag. But the other 3 haven't found partners yet.
Blue goes to the ignition cylinder, but since you are using the master switch panel w/starter you can take it out.
The 2 pin black goes to the key warning, since you don't need the ignition cylinder you can take that out
The black 5 pin goes to the horn one described above.

Brian - Help!

Whoops, 1 more.

This is the passenger side rear of engine harness. One is the second o2 sensor, the other 3 I'm not certain of.
Left to right, EGT, boost controller, Maf, 02 Sensor

Glad to install is going well and thanks for the kind words!

[metros]

Must've seen the signal in the sky! Thanks for the fast feedback!

Overall it's been very straight forward. Very well organized.

[iWire]

Must've seen the signal in the sky! Thanks for the fast feedback!

Overall it's been very straight forward. Very well organized.

Excellent, glad to hear that! :D Saw your email and headed over here to help.

[metros]

Good news, Bad News: Good news is I beat 3 other applicants for a promotion. Bad news is that has put a damper on garage time. This week I'm taking a day off in the middle of the week to focus on the car when nobody else is home.

Updates:
-Wiring - I've got the harness laid in where it needs to be and zip tied loosely in place. Once I make sure the car will fire and run I'm going to go back through and use P-Clamps to secure the harness in place. Only thing I'm still working on is mounting the circuit breaker and wiring the breaker/kill switch up.

-Mach V Motorsports electronic boost controller is installed.

-Wayne of Very Cool Parts is sending me some 2.5" piping to finish out my AWIC routing.

-Front suspension has been tightened to spec and paint marked. After putting some miles on the go kart I'm planning to go back through and check all the nuts/bolts.

-Intake has been finished - it'll be drawing air in through the passenger side hump, which has shown very important for controlling intake temps by other builders.

Coming up:
-Mount the coolant tank and run the lines.
-Finish wiring harness install.
-Re-install shifter.
-Run AWIC lines and p-clamp in place.
-Eyeball align the rear suspension and tighten to spec.
-Adjust routing of heater bypass hose.
-Add fluids.
-Fire it up!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Good news is I beat 3 other applicants for a promotion.
-Intake has been finished - it'll be drawing air in through the passenger side hump, which has shown very important for controlling intake temps by other builders.



Hi Metros,
Congrats on the promotion.

The guys getting air through the passenger hump are 818R with no windshield.
Bob

[C.Plavan]

Hi Metros,
Congrats on the promotion.

The guys getting air through the passenger hump are 818R with no windshield.
Bob

That was my first spot, but it was a littler lower than the hump. I had to bring it outside the hump for ambient air.

[metros]

Thanks for the input. For the time being I'll keep it as is. Mounting the rest of necessary parts will let me know potential alternative without redoing work several times.

[metros]

I didn't end up getting a work day off this week. However, I did get a fair amount accomplished for such a short amount of time available.

-Ran the AWIC lines from core to heat exchanger/pump. I also covered those lines in heat shielding to protect the coolant tubes from radiating heat into them as they'll be run side by side. Just need to p-clamp them in place.

-Loosely applied the windshield frame to check for clearance around the master cylinder. Next I can mount the remote reservoir for brake/clutch lines to the windshield surround.

Look at those aerodynamics!
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150525_134743_zpsrl9l8vp7.jpg

-Aligned the rear end as best I could for my home garage. Tightened/torqued all rear suspension bolts. It feels good to put the paint line on bolts that I know are done.

-Installed rear 15mm spacers - Rear wheels now fit with several mm of clearance. With the way I have it aligned I may be able to back down to the 10mm spacers or tweak it a little further to make the 10mm spacers work. I'm going to keep it as is until I know where the wheels are in relation to the body.

-AWIC will be finally finished once I receive a package on Tuesday. I needed a 2.5" diameter x6" long aluminum pipe with bead rolled ends to get everything to line up to my liking.

-I was scouting out potential mounting locations for the setrab oil cooler. Here are a few pictures. Provide feedback in reference to body mounting position and side scoop.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150525_130725_zps4av38rgc.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150525_130554_zpsfehyk7oc.jpg

[metros]

Work has been crazy and I'm still adjusting to my new position and the extra hours required to do my job. A few weeks ago I spent a week in Orlando learning to become a Driving Rehabilitation Specialist. Working towards being able to eval/treat people with disabilities or who have suffered a stroke, etc. in order to drive again. Spent a lot of time learning how to use hand controls for brake/gas and all sorts of other adapted strategies.

I've since been able to button up a few parts of my project.

I finally have the AWIC set up how I'm happy with and tweaked to my liking. The coolant lines have been run and p-clamped in place. I also used a heat sheath to protect these coolant lines from the engine coolant heat.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150614_132256_zpssdowwbvm.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150614_132310_zpsa3hyxexr.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150614_132236_zpsk64iswmf.jpg

Pump:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150614_132224_zpsczswernb.jpg

[metros]

I've also been working on my oil cooler set up. There have been other 818 builders who have gotten their car on track and are fighting heat issues in the oil. I have since more than doubled the size of oil cooler I'll be using and added a shroud/fan to pull air through it. Today I created 1 post for mounting the oil cooler. Need to wait for my brother in law to come over and weld it in place. Mine will be a lot less elaborate than the other 818 builders that are struggling with oil cooling. But then I'll be using street tires and I'm less experienced on track. This should be more than enough for my set up and ability level.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150614_132139_zpsxrfe2pop.jpg

Where I'm looking to mount it.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150614_132104_zpskme7jl90.jpg

Center console has been modified and drilled for mounting. Need to drill holes in the chassis and the center hole for the shifter. Then I can get it powder coated while the car is getting tuned.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150614_132330_zpsjdesvvws.jpg

My help in the shop hasn't exactly been helping move things along. He checked the fitment of these bolts for the windshield surround over and over. Not sure what he was concerned about but he did want to make damn sure they were going to fit correctly.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150613_114148_zpsmn4bfk2z.jpg

[Hindsight]

Looks like you are making some great progress and everything looks good. I like the oil cooler location you chose. Are you going to build a duct for it to the scoop?

If so, I saw this while browsing Eastwood: http://www.eastwood.com/15in-adjustable-profile-gauge.html. Had no idea such a thing existed. It would make it so much easier to fab things up that have to seal off against strange curves and angles. You could box the oil cooler off to the side scoop completely with some thin aluminum sheet, or do it with fiberglass etc.

Nice use of thermal protection on the hoses. I plan to do something similar.

[metros]

I'm going to try without ducting first. If it needs to happen then I would purchase the setrab ducting for it. I already have the hose from the last oil cooler I purchased.

I recommend the hot rod sheath off Amazon. Way cheaper for bulk purchases of 1" sheathing. Doesn't velcro, so you have to slide it down the length of the cooling lines. You'll be ok with 50' exactly or short just a little. No, there is not 50' of line. But to get a tight fitting on the hose you need to scrunch the heat sheathing down, which shrinks it. Think chinese finger trap.

[metros]

Over the last several weeks I've had limited opportunity to work on the car. I spent one weekend helping a family member roof their house and helping others with their vehicles. Still managing to make some forward progress though.

My last post you saw where I was looking to mount the oil cooler. I had my brother in law come over to help me weld up the necessary brackets.

Here they are welded on and cleaned up. Added some dog ears to the brackets for actually bolting to the oil cooler.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150704_141404_zps6klv5jc2.jpg

Painted and oil cooler set in place:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150705_133835_zpsiuio4xo8.jpg

Clearance between cooler and rear wheel. There is 2" of space between the closest point of tire and cooler mount. That should be plenty, right?
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150705_134237_zps4xdflzdh.jpg

I took a page from a few other 818 builders and cut the top off the center console. Then it won't be such a pain to work in the center tunnel if the need ever arises. Also, I cut the center hole for the shifter to mount and the necessary holes in the chassis. Just need to rivnut the top bolts for the center console to hold the lid in place. I found that if you push just enough the top overlap will fit down over the side pieces. Makes for a very tightly secured lid.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150705_133843_zpsds3rfqbc.jpg

Unfortunately I cut the hole a little to wide. I'll need to make a sheet that goes between the shifter and center console lid to cover the hole. Or re-create the pre-bent piece from F5 without access to a brake.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150705_134002_zpshp9fla77.jpg

Countdown to firing:
-Wrap up hooking up battery and wiring.
-Run lines between oil cooler and thermostatic sandwich plate.
-Heat wrap headers - I never planned on this because I ceramic coated the manifolds. But I'm going to wrap them because others have said how much heat is a problem in the engine bay.
-Finalize mounting of brake master fluid reservoir.
-Mount overflow tank and coolant reservoir.
-Add engine oil, coolant, brake fluid, AWIC coolant (already filled the trans).
-Check for leaks.
-Cross fingers.

My goal is to have the car to Mach V for them to work on before their open house on August 1st. They're going to weld the wing mount I purchased together and fabricate the seat mounts. I better get cracking.

[Frank818]

Will there be something (fiberglass panel, alu sheet, etc.) between the tire and oil cooler or it's thin air?