The Start of a Journey - Metros Build Thread

[metros]

I assume I'll have to modify heavily or create my own splash shield. But yes, there will be something to prevent rocks or debris from puncturing the core.

[metros]

Made a few little steps toward go-karting this weekend.

Made little rubber pads to help isolate the oil cooler from vibration even more. The mounting brackets have vibration isolaters and now there is another layer of dampening at the chassis to oil cooler mount. I used a 1/4" thick rubber floor mat for the pieces.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150712_133519_zpsswevcpki.jpg

Final mounting:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150712_134207_zpsbpcgomw4.jpg

I ran the lines from thermostatic sandwich plate to the oil cooler. I'm using -10an push lock line. Talk about a wrestling match to get the lines fully seated into the fittings. I feel very confident that it would take the hand of god to create a leak with the way this line fits.

I routed the lines away from the exhaust manifolds and looped them back around next to the heat shield. I'll also be ordering a different heat sheath to protect them. I thought I had velcro on heat protection. After they were all installed I learned they had to slide onto the hose before installing. Nope. Not going back to re-do that.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150712_150629_zps1zojzmwt.jpg

They're hanging down a bit but will tuck up nicely with some p-clamps along the way.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150712_150652_zpsnvdh2mr7.jpg

Shifter lines are all adjusted and installed to the shifter. I took the center console panels off as I was planning on having them powdercoated while the car is at the tuners (Mach V). Now I may have to wait a bit more so they can work some sheet metal brake magic on the top cover.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150712_150841_zpsyptnz2jl.jpg

May adjust the angle of the shifter once I have seats mounted. The k-tuned shifter is one of the coolest add ons for the 818. If you like tools/gadgets, this is the shifter for you. I'll be able to feel how it shifts once I bleed the clutch line.

Gas pedal stop:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150712_150757_zpsmv9mmtdf.jpg

1/2" by 2.5-3" bolt with 1/8" steel welded to the top. I can adjust the depth of the gas pedal stop by adjusting 2 lock nuts that hold this to an aluminum plate that spans between 2 firewall posts. Obviously still drying though.

I also heat wrapped the exhaust manifolds this weekend. I originally wasn't planning on heat wrapping as I had the manifolds ceramic coated. But with the concerns with heat in the engine bay I decided to wrap them. In the future, I would recommend wrapping them off the car. I was able to do an ok job on the car but not as tidy as if I had all the pieces to work with separately.

Countdown to firing: Update - grey = done
-Wrap up hooking up battery and wiring.
-Run lines between oil cooler and thermostatic sandwich plate.
-Heat wrap headers - I never planned on this because I ceramic coated the manifolds. But I'm going to wrap them because others have said how much heat is a problem in the engine bay.
-Finalize mounting of brake master fluid reservoir.
-Mount overflow tank and coolant reservoir.
-Add engine oil, coolant, brake fluid, AWIC coolant (already filled the trans).
-Check for leaks.
-Cross fingers.

[Frank818]

Nice cooler setup!
Where's your intake air filter going?

[metros]

Passenger side hump for the time being. Not sure if the maf will be happy with having an elbow, even though it's huge and shouldn't have much restriction.

If that doesn't work I'll have to find somewhere else.

[Frank818]

I think I missed that part, but what's the reason for the cooler to not be on the driver's side?

[metros]

I believe it could be. Just put mine here.

[STiPWRD]

Looking good, hope you get it fired up soon and then take me for a ride :-). I've made some progress too and will try to post an update soon.

[metros]

Between yesterday and today I've completed a ton of odds and ends. Need to finish mounting the ecu, fill with coolant, install battery, and finish bleeding the clutch line.

Oh yeah, replace a coolant coupler that I drilled through when drilling holes for ecu mounting.

Otherwise it's looking like I'll be able to fire it up tomorrow. Fingers crossed!

[metros]

Well, I didn't quite meet my goal of starting the car. The only things left are bleeding the clutch (which has been a *****) and installing/hooking up the battery.

Evidently these cars are notorious for having difficulty in bleeding the clutch master/lines. I have removed the slave cylinder, compressed the slave piston with a c-clamp, and bled the clutch line with a vacuum system while nipple pointed straight upward. When doing so I don't get air bubbles any longer and the clutch pedal only moves maybe an inch while the piston is c-clamped. However, when I reinstall everything the clutch pedal just sits on the floor and I have to physically pull it back up.

In searching for bleeding tips, I've found that I may not have the throwout bearing retaining clip seated correctly. From what I've read it should take a lot of force to move the clutch fork. However, mine moves forward/back without much effort at all. May end up having to pull the trans to straighten that out. Feel free to correct any of that information if I've got it wrong.

The good news:
-Ecu is mounted - I again used my 1/4" thick rubber floor mat to create a vibration isolator that sits underneath the ecu.
-Coolant overflow is installed with Craig's mounting bracket. All lines have been hooked up to the coolant overflow.
-Overflow line has been run from front to back - this eliminates mounting 1 reservoir up front. Still need to mount one for the AWIC system.
-Brake/Clutch remote reservoir is installed in the windshield surround.
-Brakes are mostly bled - I need to hit them all one more time with a partner working the brake pedal for me. Only had 1 leaking point - otherwise issue free.
-Wiring for AWIC pump and oil cooler aux fan is complete. The pump is key on power and the aux fan is on one of the switches on the master switch panel. I figure I won't need the oil cooler fan much when street driving, hence the switch.
-Coolant for engine/AWIC system has been put in. I used the uview airlift air vacuum tool for both systems. It doesn't get any better than this tool for coolant system filling. I highly recommend it for the 818 especially as there is a lot of line and many opportunities for air pockets. This tool uses air compressor power to create a vacuum in the system (great for checking for leaks) and then transfers coolant in the system air free. Worth every cent.
-Cleaned up a lot of wiring with zip ties.

To do:
-Straighten out bleeding the clutch - pull trans to correct retaining ring?
-Install battery.

Ugh - so close.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150719_175142_zpsxnkbzt2q.jpg

[brian b 36]

metros try un skrewing the shaft on the clutch master that solved my problem about 3 turns brian

[metros]

Positive update!
Removed the slave cylinder and pulled on the clutch fork. I could feel it interacting with something and gave it a good yank. It popped and now feels engaged. The tip of the clutch fork (outside the transmission) now moves about an inch by hand but otherwise doesn't have any play. Does that sound like an appropriate amount of movement?

I re-installed the slave cylinder and the clutch pedal has some pressure to it. It goes maybe halfway down and doesn't remain stuck on the floor. I think if I re-bleed everything I'll be in business.

Thanks to the help of the forum. The internet comes to the rescue yet again!

[mikeb75]

Clutch fork movement sounds proper after your adjustment. Matches my experience. GL!

[metros]

What a day


http://youtu.be/Y1eGeODa5oU

[mikeb75]

!!!CONGRATS!!!

Your exhaust has an interesting sound, 'gonna be quite a sharp sound/bark I think.

[metros]

Clearly I've had a great weekend! Started it yesterday without any fires or leaks actually. Go-karted it for the first time today.

For now the seat is just zip tied in place as I'm having my tuner weld in some mounts while it's there.

Right now it's running a little rough. It won't idle and I need to keep feathering the throttle to keep it running. I anticipate the tune will be a major contributor there. Donor was said to be tuned on ecutek, however I never found an ecutek box while I tore the donor apart. I thought that when using ecutek to tune it had an add on box that stays in the car?

Either way, Mach V Motorsports will be tuning the car for me on accessport. I'm going to need to add in a muffler as this is just a bit loud for my tastes as is. Should take a lot of the rasp out of the exhaust note as well.

How do others typically do builds with new clutches that need a tune? Putt around to break in the clutch or go right to the tuner? Get a limp tune?

Video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=51zUmTyTbLg

Earlier today I had to stop and take note of how good these wheels look on the go kart. Mach V Motorsports - 'awesome' on front and 'wicked awesome' on rear.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150726_130503_zpslmlsvggu.jpg

I'm measuring at 5" exactly from chassis to ground. That number seems in the correct neighborhood as other builders but feels really low after working on the car at 24" height from the dolly for so long.

[mikeb75]

You can use your AccessPort to raise your idle a few hundred to see if that helps. It's in the Tune -> Adjustment menus. (Just re-read your post, don't know if you have your AP yet... if not never mind :)

[C.Plavan]

Don't worry about the new clutch. You will be fine going straight to dyno. Congrats.

[Flamshackle]

Clearly I've had a great weekend! Started it yesterday without any fires or leaks actually. Go-karted it for the first time today.

congrats! wheels look great

[Tamra]

That's awesome!!! Congrats!!!

We went straight to the tuner followed by about 90 minutes of actual autocross racing the next month. Our clutch feels great and seems no worse for wear.

[metros]

That's re-assuring. I've given my tuner 2 options of what he prefers based on time to break in the clutch and/or adding a muffler to my exhaust system. I'm not sure how much difference that would make to a tune. Based on what Dan at Mach V says I'll take it for tuning/wing supports/seat mounts before vacation or in several weeks.

[STiPWRD]

Great videos! All the hard work has paid off, I can't wait to do the same in a few weeks. I made some good progress on the wiring this weekend but I'm still a solid 10-20 hours of loose ends away from firing it up. Btw, I got my windshield installed into the frame this weekend after calling 10 different shops, I finally found one that would do it, let me know if you need the info.

[metros]

Thanks, I'd love the info passed my way. Great way to save some time.

[Hindsight]

Big congrats on the first start!

[Frank818]

The beast is working! :)

5" of the ground in line with others? I thought no one went that high and more around 4.5"-4.75". I'll try as high as I can me too, but I don't know if 5" will be hard on the tie rod's ball joints if at full extension.

[JeromeS13]

Make sure you double check the ride height after you install your body panels. I found out the hard way, when I murdered my bumper pulling into my driveway for the very first time... Haha

[Frank818]

Final mounting:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150712_134207_zpsbpcgomw4.jpg


Metros power, at what angle have you mounted the oil rad? I just needed to buy a new set for different reasons and the only place I can mount it is like yours, but at what angle compared to the 1.5" vertical tube it's welded on?

[metros]

I can take a look when I get home. I tried to replicate FFRspec's mounting position seen in this thread.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?17936-oil-cooler-location-post-yours

[Frank818]

Ha, I get it. And now that I look at those pix from that other thread I realize even more how crappy the venting is on that car. The side louvers let air in directly on the rear splash guard! That's far from an efficient setup. I'll have to fab my own "air redirect" plate (meaning more time before build completion). It seems the cooler will fit forward from the side louver, I mean the louver opening will not be directly on the cooler (judging by the pix), so there should be minimal direct airflow to the cooler. That's pretty sad but there aren't a ton of locations possible for a cooler, hey? :)

I have a better idea now, though, tnx.

[metros]

I wouldn't say the side opening will feed the cooler directly without additional ducting work. I do have the cooler positioned within reach of incoming air and with a strong auxiliary fan to pull air to it.

I could also enclose the cooler and duct air direct from the side scoop if necessary.

[metros]

I wouldn't say the side opening will feed the cooler directly without additional ducting work. I do have the cooler positioned within reach of incoming air and with a strong auxiliary fan to pull air to it.

I could also enclose the cooler and duct air direct from the side scoop if necessary.

[Frank818]

That is exactly what I plan on doing, ducting somehow the air through it. There are so many "somehows" I did already, it's not one more that'll be a problem. lolll

[metros]

It's been a few weeks since I've updated this thread. I worked out a bunch of little things over the last few weeks.

Friday I dropped the car off at Mach V Motorsports. They're going to tune the car for me as well as do some welding/fab work. They're creating my seat mounts, welding a muffler into the exhaust system, fabbing an additional trans mount at the rear end, and welding together the VRaptor Motorsports wing support I purchased.

In the mean time, I'm looking at some heat/sound barriers to paint inside the body panels. Many builders report how surprised they are to see how hot it gets inside the engine bay. Having an additional layer of heat protection on some of the panels seems like a worthy investment. Plus if I get the car painted down the road then it'll help protect the paint from heat damage.

Feels a little odd not to have the car in the garage.

I'm spending this weekend doing oil changes on the daily vehicles and giving them a simple detail.

[Frank818]

That's true, I forgot about heat damaging paint/wrap! Damn, I'm not even sure I have enough clearance to put a heat repellent over the turbo anyway. :( Oh well, I'll cook some fiberglass, then! :)

[metros]

Got some disheartening news this week. Mach V was doing the above work for me on the wing support, harness tabs, tuning, etc. They discovered that 2 cylinders (opposite heads) are showing 0 compression. I must have seriously botched the timing belt install as they suspect the valves are stuck/bent open. 1 cylinder was scoped and showed some scuffs on the piston. Not sure if I'm going to need to look at pistons as well.

Costly lesson to learn to say the least.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hey metros,
One of our engines had bent valves as a result of a front crash.
From rock auto:
head bolts $49 per head
gasket set $129
Valves $7 each
Labor: The cost to teach my son Michael how to do a valve job. PRICELESS.

45105

[metros]

Well after moping around for a few days I'm ready to get back in the saddle. I did get some work around the house done while away from the car. Also was fortunate enough to have some good family time.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150907_112634_zps9lmbltvg.jpg

Good news - the intake valves in 2 cylinders were bent, but the pistons were undamaged. I'm wondering if I bent the valves while I was trying to time the timing belt as the damage to the piston was non-existant. I would think turning the cam slowly and bending the valves this way would leave the piston unmarred like this. As opposed to starting the car and having the 2 come into contact at a high speed/force.

Either way, both heads were sent to the machine shop, decked, hot tanked, and rebuilt. Pictures to be added in the future. They should be as good as new now. Waiting for Mach V to re-assemble for me and then dyno tune the car.

In the mean time, I actually made myself scuff/sand the inside of the fiberglass panels. Used a green scotch brite followed by 100 grit sandpaper. Then cleaned with a degreaser and rinsed. They should be ready for spray on sound deadening next weekend. I'm also going to rhino line the insides of the front fenders. There aren't splash shields for the front so rocks will hit the inside of the fenders, they'll need some protection.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150913_134041_zps1hwzwmye.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150913_134052_zpsutrjlh9b.jpg

Not pictured: bumpers, engine cover, trunk cover, and hood.

Looking forward to one day having the car finished and looking back through this thread.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/IMG_03781_zpsucdkwtkh.jpg

[Frank818]

Is that guy the owner of the machine shop you sent your heads to? :) He looks like a hard worker, though.

[STiPWRD]

Glad the engine is getting fixed up, I've gotta do the same thing to my fiberglass.

[metros]

Frank - Don't let the pictures fool you. He'll get distracted with pumping the floor jack or removing/replacing random bolts at the drop of a hat. Looks to be lining himself up for government employment in the future.

Slava - I recommend long sleeves and gloves. I'm still itching. I didn't anticipate just scuffing the panels would result in this level of itch, I was mistaken.

[Frank818]

Looks to be lining himself up for government employment in the future.

HAHAHAHAH!!!!! I laughed that one out so loud and so long! :D

[metros]

Should be an excellent weekend!

My car is just getting finished with tuning. The heads have been decked, hot tanked, new intake valves and all put back together. I can't wait to drive it around the neighborhood. It sounds odd, but I actually miss working on it a bit as it's been gone the past several weeks. Looking forward to seeing what numbers it ended up with as well.

Last weekend I finished with the sound deadening of the exterior panels. Still need to do the F/R bumpers and hood/trunk covers. I was happy with the way the DEI spray deadener turned out. A nice coating that seems to foam up just slightly.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150920_121004_zpssru77lwl.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150920_121017_zpsp5bnzpbj.jpg

Stand by for rwhp numbers!

[Frank818]

Yeah the result really looks good!!! I'm jealous, I got EZCool but damn your DEI stuff seems a lot better and it's spray. How much was it? And did you somehow test its efficiency? Before and after coating.

[Hindsight]

Yeah I agree, that looks fantastic. I was going to just spray mine with some flat black spraypaint but I really like the look of yours. Do you have any idea if it added much weight?

[metros]

I got it off amazon for around 11 a can. The 2 rear qrtr, 2 doors, and 2 fenders took 5 cans to put a nice coat on. Of course, most of the actual work is in the prep.

The before and after comparison is that the panels feel much more rigid and there is a noise difference when tapping them, but that isn't really something I can describe.

I'm sure this added weight but I have no before and after comparisons. I'm sure this is a lot lighter than using the dynomat style sound deadener that you stick on. I have some of that and a 1' square of that is heavier than a can of this spray.

[Mechie3]

That does look nice. It'll look finished when you pop the hood/trunk vs the "oh...uh.....that's very yellowish"

[metros]

^Agreed, another one of the reasons I wanted to use spray deadener.

[Rasmus]

Nice look. I'd imagine it foams up because it's designed to make small gas bubbles throughout the product's layer. Gas bubbles that help reduce the sound passing through the panel.

[metros]

I successfully picked the 818 up from Mach V Motorsports on Friday. They were able to wire in the fuel temp sensor directly to the ecu, which set it up for tuning. However, they had some staffing issues and weren't able to give it the proper tune it deserves before I picked it up. They were able to tweak it enough for it to idle nicely and drive around the neighborhood, but not to romp on :(.

While it was there, they corrected some minor things that I had set up incorrectly.
-Where I had connected the radiator overflow - The radiator I had purchased had 2 nipples (one at the neck and one on the other corner). I had the overflow connected to the neck, but it should have been at the corner.
-Rear lateral links - I had adjusted them to the stock sizes when installing, but then brought them in more when giving it an eyeball alignment. This was causing some mild binding, which is why I was having some resistance in the rear. Lesson learned.
-Welded on a stud for one of the ground points. I had previously used a pop rivet to secure this ground, which I have learned is not ideal.
-Wired in fuel temp sensor - it'll read ambient right next to the tank, which will give the ecu accurate enough information (I believe).
-Tacked my muffler onto the exhaust - waiting for body installation to weld perfectly center. But this'll cut down on the noise for now.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150927_125513_zpszst5hzyy.jpg

On top of that, they discovered 2 cylinders with 0 compression due to bent valves. Pulled it all apart and sent the heads to a machine shop for rebuilding. I could have trailered it home and pulled it apart myself. But head work is over my pay grade at this point in the learning process. A newb mistake here could cost a whole lot more than paying Mach V to handle this.

Overall, the car starts and runs very smoothly, idles nicely, and drives without a hiccup.

Mach V also welded in the appropriate tabs for my harnesses and mounts for the seats. It's hard to see from the pictures but those cross braces are L pieces and welded on the top (pictured) as well as the side.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150927_132655_zpsnpi7p2xz.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150927_132705_zpsgey0ga8k.jpg

Nice looking welds
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150927_132740_zpso1ia3oyc.jpg

This is the 1 step forward part of my update.

Next comes the 3 steps back part of my update. On the way home I decided to throw some gas into the car as we were already at a gas station for the truck. Drive it around the neighborhood a bit and park it for the night. The next morning I come out to a garage full of fuel fumes. The seal for the fuel level sending unit **** the bed. Previously I had only enough fuel in the tank to where it hadn't yet reached this seal.

Pull the seats out, pull the fire wall, pull the engine/tank firewall, pull the shifter, and finally get to the seal. I thought that I would be able to use the FFR fuel tank because I had gone the extra mile to use a tank sealer. Now I'm dealing with the consequences of accepting the **** design of the FFR tank. So frustrated with that. I'll be taking this tank for target practice and purchasing a Boyd tank. That was one area I had planned on saving funds while using the stock tank. Now I'm feeling that bite my ***. FYI, gasoline turns dynomat sound deadener into a tar like substance.

Ugh.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150927_125425_zpsumodagbf.jpg

[Frank818]

A lot of things happened here.

Are you fixing the exhaust pipe onto the trans? No flex bellows no rubber?

Nice oil cooler. :)

I had the sender unit's seal leak too. I put some sealant gasket on both of them now, so I am sure it will be ok. The tank is really kitcarisch, way too simple in its simple, which causes issues. Hopefully we will get used to them without too much trouble.

[STiPWRD]

I got a dollar for my FFR tank at the metal yard, it's worthless lol.

Great to hear you got the car back and at least drove it around while the weather's nice. They got a lot done over there. How come you didn't just let them tune it and picked it up later? Would there have been a long wait?

By the way, I might need to buy one of these airlift tools, that thing is amazing.

[metros]

I will be out of town next weekend, which would mean it was sitting at their place for another 2 weeks. I actually hadn't anticipated it wouldn't be finished. If they had called and told me that they weren't able to get to it then I may have waited. But getting there I thought all was good and it was ready to go.

Glad you like the Ulift - now you can see why I was so excited about it. I never anticipated it would work as well as it does.

Hey - how did you order the 818 tank from the boyd site? Will they know what I'm talking about when I specify FFR 818?

[STiPWRD]

You can order directly from their site:
http://www.fueltankparts.com/factory-five-818-10-gallon-gas-tank-with-aeromotive-stealth-340-pump.html

I also called them to confirm lead time, they're very easy to talk to. You'll have to remove the sender and flip the float for the resistance to read correctly. Otherwise it will read full when actually empty. Mine is still reading empty with 5 gallons though, I'll have to remove it and see if it's getting hung up.

[metros]

It has been awhile since I last updated my build thread.

During this time I ordered & received the Boyd fuel tank to replace the FFR tank with poorly designed seals. I'll lose about 3 gallons of fuel capacity (now 10 gallon total), but gain several inches in legroom as a result of the tank being slimmer. The tank also came with an aeromotive stealth 340, which is overkill but a nice unit.

I've since tweaked the wiring for the Boyd tank and modified the fuel level sender to provide the correct information to my ecu. I've also spent a bit of time painting all of the newly added seat mounts/bracing.

Otherwise I took a vacation and have just recently gotten caught up since returning from Mexico.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20151101_111402_zpsgoidaiw4.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20151101_123234_zpsbzruvkpa.jpg

To those of you with the Boyd tank and first gen firewall - did you take the firewall somewhere to be bent to allow more legroom or flex it back further and bolt it in?


Also enjoyed some family time. My son was VERY in to Halloween. He's almost 2 now, I had no idea he'd get so into trick or treating. His cousin was mario.

Pre-mustache application.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20151031_175417_zpsdzip6upg.jpg

[AZPete]

Great Halloween photo! For the firewall with a Boyd tank, I took the upper piece to a metal shop that had a big bending brake and they bent the upper bend more so I could keep the flat ledge for some storage behind the seats. I think I had them bend it 20 degrees but check yours to make sure. I remember another builder on this site saying he cut the aluminum piece at the shelf and then riveted the two pieces together.

[Frank818]

Where are the candies?
Oh, the car is a big candy, just can't eat it. :)

[metros]

It's been a few weeks since I had the homefront squared away and got to work in a bit of garage time.

Last weekend I tied up a few loose ends - leaking clutch master, replaced a brake hose from reservoir to master, modified the shifter plate mount for easier removal/re-install, re-installed the shifter, mounted the gas tank, re-installed the upper heat shield and took a quick look at how the firewall needs to be modified for the new tank and additional leg room. Lots of little things that really needed to be addressed before I could move forward. The only thing I'm waiting on to finish the new gas tank is welding a bung into the filler tube. Then I can vent the tank up towards the top of the filler for faster/easier fueling.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20151115_130514_zps2lqmm1lk.jpg

This weekend I got some grunt work done prior to the garage getting real cold. I mocked up the floor pan for underneath the seats and drilled all the chassis holes for riveting. Laying under the car with not a lot of leverage for drilling while shards of steel/aluminum fall on you isn't one of my favorite ways to spend a Saturday. But better now than before winter really sets in and I get frozen doing the job. That panel is currently rhino-lined and drying after its second coat.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20151121_162258_zpsfkf327dh.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20151122_115407_zpsizkozds2.jpg

This weekend I hung the side sails and front fenders for the first time. All of the body panels have been stored in the basement since I received the kit 1.5 years ago. I'm sure they've conformed to storage a bit, regardless of how carefully I attempted to store them in appropriate positions. I really just clamped these on today to let them sit and re-conform for this week before I add anything else. Not to mention freeing up some garage space is really nice.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20151122_132726_zpsohcr13as.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20151122_132828_zpstfkptwjg.jpg

The passenger side is contacting my oil cooler just slightly. I may need to 'enhance' the passenger side scoop cut out a touch to allow them to play nice together. Otherwise the positioning of my oil cooler is great for access to cool air.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20151122_115333_001_zps6l5lma0g.jpg

In family news, I took my son to the local track (Summit Point Raceway) for Mach V's sponsored NASA day. This was his first time and he seemed to enjoy it. He wasn't as impressed with the cars on track as the cars in the paddock. He really wanted to get up close and look inside all the cars. I made sure he could say Porsche before we left.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20151108_120620_zpsfdih6v1g.jpg

I'm hoping to get some time in the garage this week. Going to bolt my Mach V 'Awesome' wheels on again and see how they fit compared to the body panels. Really excited to see what they look like as well.

[svanlare]

Just reading now, but I did exactly what Pete did and had the top sheet of aluminum bent to a new angle for the boyd tank.

[Flamshackle]

I successfully picked the 818 up from Mach V Motorsports on Friday. They were able to wire in the fuel temp sensor directly to the ecu, which set it up for tuning. However, they had some staffing issues and weren't able to give it the proper tune it deserves before I picked it up. They were able to tweak it enough for it to idle nicely and drive around the neighborhood, but not to romp on :(.

While it was there, they corrected some minor things that I had set up incorrectly.
-Where I had connected the radiator overflow - The radiator I had purchased had 2 nipples (one at the neck and one on the other corner). I had the overflow connected to the neck, but it should have been at the corner.
-Rear lateral links - I had adjusted them to the stock sizes when installing, but then brought them in more when giving it an eyeball alignment. This was causing some mild binding, which is why I was having some resistance in the rear. Lesson learned.
-Welded on a stud for one of the ground points. I had previously used a pop rivet to secure this ground, which I have learned is not ideal.
-Wired in fuel temp sensor - it'll read ambient right next to the tank, which will give the ecu accurate enough information (I believe).
-Tacked my muffler onto the exhaust - waiting for body installation to weld perfectly center. But this'll cut down on the noise for now.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150927_125513_zpszst5hzyy.jpg

On top of that, they discovered 2 cylinders with 0 compression due to bent valves. Pulled it all apart and sent the heads to a machine shop for rebuilding. I could have trailered it home and pulled it apart myself. But head work is over my pay grade at this point in the learning process. A newb mistake here could cost a whole lot more than paying Mach V to handle this.

Overall, the car starts and runs very smoothly, idles nicely, and drives without a hiccup.

Mach V also welded in the appropriate tabs for my harnesses and mounts for the seats. It's hard to see from the pictures but those cross braces are L pieces and welded on the top (pictured) as well as the side.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150927_132655_zpsnpi7p2xz.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150927_132705_zpsgey0ga8k.jpg

Nice looking welds
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150927_132740_zpso1ia3oyc.jpg

This is the 1 step forward part of my update.

Next comes the 3 steps back part of my update. On the way home I decided to throw some gas into the car as we were already at a gas station for the truck. Drive it around the neighborhood a bit and park it for the night. The next morning I come out to a garage full of fuel fumes. The seal for the fuel level sending unit **** the bed. Previously I had only enough fuel in the tank to where it hadn't yet reached this seal.

Pull the seats out, pull the fire wall, pull the engine/tank firewall, pull the shifter, and finally get to the seal. I thought that I would be able to use the FFR fuel tank because I had gone the extra mile to use a tank sealer. Now I'm dealing with the consequences of accepting the **** design of the FFR tank. So frustrated with that. I'll be taking this tank for target practice and purchasing a Boyd tank. That was one area I had planned on saving funds while using the stock tank. Now I'm feeling that bite my ***. FYI, gasoline turns dynomat sound deadener into a tar like substance.

Ugh.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20150927_125425_zpsumodagbf.jpg

Great to follow this.

Is there a way to remedy the poor seals on the stock tank? I dont have the boyd and would really appreciate a fix for the factory tank if possible. What seals are we talking about that leak? can they not be replaced or modified to work?

[metros]

The gasket that ffr includes is total crap. I've heard of at least one person finding a better rubber o ring. I chose an overkill solution but won't have to worry about it again.

I assume you guys took your firewall to a machine shop to be rebent. What did you tell them and how much does it need to be bent.

[svanlare]

After calling around I found a shop that builds aluminum gutters and they bent it for $20. I taped some cardboard to the chassis and marked the angle I wanted (i think it was 20 degrees more bend) and then they put it on a BIG brake as the small one wasn't getting the job done.

[idf]

Great to follow this.

Is there a way to remedy the poor seals on the stock tank? I dont have the boyd and would really appreciate a fix for the factory tank if possible. What seals are we talking about that leak? can they not be replaced or modified to work?

These worked for me with a little tightening of the tabs on the tank: Buna-N N90 O ring (model B90229) 2 3/8 in ID, 2 5/8 in OD and 1/8 in cross section which gives a perfect seal without RTV. $0.13 ea with a minimum quantity of 4 and $8.00 priority mail shipping from the O-Ring Store.

[metros]

Took advantage of some last minute good weather this weekend and worked on the car with some good company, my father. The extra pair of hands is nice but the frequent jokes and good natured ribbing makes for an enjoyable day.

Since I've ordered the new nose for the 818, I can't really work on fitting the panels because they all need to be fit together. Instead I worked on some things that I could address. I cut the gas cap hole, and cut the driver/passenger side vents. The passenger side required more in order to clear the oil cooler, but not really noticeable. The passenger side scoop should be the oil cooler very nicely as it sits in direct path of airflow. Plus I have an aux fan on the back of the oil cooler to pull more air through it.

BTW, those of you who recommended the IR airsaw for this purpose were spot on! That saw cuts through the fiberglass like butter and cuts into some tight radius corners.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20151127_155014_zps6kwmrnpw.jpg

See the oil cooler peeking out?
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20151127_154921_zpsgdummftz.jpg

I was also able to fit the instrument panel to the dash board, cut/fit the control panel, and cut/fit the hazard switch. None of these are mounted fully below as I'm planning to put a fresh coat of trim paint over the dash. It's got a few scuffs/scratches from transport to address.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20151127_154028_zpsn2xl0st7.jpg

Next up - mounting the dash to chassis and getting the windshield installed.

[tmoretta]

What size real wheel spacers are those? Made by whom?

[lennyspecv]

This is a great build thread. Very thorough.

[metros]

Tmoretta - they are h&r spacers, either 10 or 15mm.

Lenny - I'm not sure what your post means. I guess thank you for congratulating me on putting my build thread in the appropriate sub forum.

[lennyspecv]

Lenny - I'm not sure what your post means. I guess thank you for congratulating me on putting my build thread in the appropriate sub forum.

Sorry--I could see how that could sound sarcastic. My bad. But really, this is a great thread...you address many of the common problems and have a lot of tasteful mods. Very similar to what I am planning for mine, even right down to the wheel choice. Although I would get mine in matte black.

Keep up the good work!

[metros]

I squeezed in some time to address the dash today. Came out pretty good IMO. The finish now no longer looks faded at all and has covered blemishes in the color/light scuffs that were present.

Before: Notice above the cluster - there were several similar marks in other places.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20151205_145029_zpsspa77tba.jpg

Before - Wiped down with brake clean to de-wax the surface.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20151205_145037_zpsfu1fqny6.jpg

After:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20151205_161355_zpst6tw8xmi.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20151205_161346_zpsxnndruji.jpg

I really need to get the windshield glass in and the firewall re-bent so I can button some things up (for good?)

[metros]

^^^Thanks!

My shop helper has turned 2! This is one of his gifts. It's completely disassemblable. You can remove the headlights, wheels, engine, spark plugs, steering wheel, switches, hood opens and closes, etc. Plus you can push it around. Pretty cool toy. Now he asks dad to help him work on his car.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20151210_185135_zpsupkld2nz.jpg

Also jumped up to a real bed!
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20151220_090227_zps8yblklv8.jpg

On to the 818 build!

I've finally got all of the body panels in my possession coated with sound deadening. It really stiffens up the fiberglass panels nicely without adding much weight. Now I'm waiting for the new fenders, and front bumper to get them sprayed.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20151220_135542_zpss3czclmo.jpg

The unsprayed portion to the front is where I anticipate I'll have to epoxy the front hinge mounts. I'll spray that surface after that's done.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20151220_134247_zpsywhjnecz.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20151220_134238_zpscaexzben.jpg

Got the sides of the center console painted. Just finished cutting the holes into the panel that Mach V re-made for me, after I cut a hole too big the first go around.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20151220_134311_001_zpsbfdsry88.jpg

[metros]

Now that I have the Boyd tank I'm looking at the stock fuel filler and deciding where to shorten it. Have you other builders cut and joined back together at this location?
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20151220_134618_zpsxflv3elz.jpg

^Also pictured a bung to vent the tank to. That way when I'm filling the gas tank it won't potentially spray fluid down the side of the car.

Looking at how much the fire wall needs to be re-bent for the new gas tank. There is a good 3-4" difference in where the new position vs old position is.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20151220_134300_zpshnfkezaf.jpg

[shoeish]

Great build! Can you provide the amazon link for the sound deadening product you are using? I would like to copy you. Also, does it do anything for heat or just sound?

Thanks!

[metros]

It's from dei, called boom mat spray on. It's heat resistant to 300*. Not a ton of heat protection, but there isn't much spray on deadening resistant to heat at all.

[shoeish]

Is it this stuff?

http://www.designengineering.com/category/catalog/boom-mat-acoustical-products/boom-mat-spray
48829

[metros]

Yes, also sold on amazon

[metros]

What kind of gap are you guys getting here between the edge of the dash and the top curve of the windshield frame?

Don't mind the weight I have holding it flat.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160109_155420_zpstylsrz5r.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160109_155411_zpsvxoclrbf.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160109_155404_zpszyiolznh.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160109_155355_zpsf6vxigmi.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160109_155348_zpsokshotxb.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160109_155340_zpspfs9dasw.jpg

[Frank818]

I had quite some. You don't really see it when the glass is on. I used industrial 3M velcro to stretched it tight in place. No prob at all.

[metros]

Got the dash all wrapped up. Having to connect everything under the dash has got me feeling beat up. Also removed the ignition cylinder. Racecars don't need keys.

It's nice to get something checked off and be very happy with the finished appearance.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160116_185356_zpsaejjbw0o.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160116_185118_zpse2wlgg2f.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160116_185100_zpsqeppze7b.jpg

Still waiting for the new front end to arrive otherwise. FFR is apparently waiting for a specially formed box to ship these in.

[Hindsight]

Looks good! Are you going to run any aftermarket gauges?

[metros]

Thanks! Yes, I have 2 spa dual gauges. Boost/oil pressure and coolant/oil temp. Not sure where I want them yet.considering up on the passenger side dash angled towards the driver or steering column mounted.

[metros]

Got a bit of time today to work in the garage. I modified the fuel filler in order to work with the Boyd tank that I upgraded to. The inlet for the Boyd tank is much higher than the FFR tank. The fuel filler will now have 1 additional coupler to account for the necessary modifications, but I don't see any issue in that.

Looking for input on whether I should get the rolled bead put back on the new set up. There won't be any pressure on the system so I don't anticipate needing the rolled bead. Difference in opinion?

Before:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20151220_134618_zpsxflv3elz.jpg

After:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160117_125703_zpsvlxebfwv.jpg

[Frank818]

The install of the dash looks so clean and OEM perfect.

[STiPWRD]

I did the same thing with the fuel filler neck and found that the coupler was very loose and fuel would probably leak when topped off. I bought a bead roller and put beads on the ends I cut but they aren't as good as the ones that came from FFR. The pipe is SS and harder than aluminum piping so the beads were tough to roll. You can borrow the bead roller if you want. If it still leaks I'll have to find someone to weld it for me since I can't weld stainless.

[metros]

Thanks for the heads up. I'm going to have my brother in law put a bead on them. I'll see how mine goes and then see if he'll do yours too if you'd like.

[STiPWRD]

Thanks, I'll try to take a pic of the bead I rolled.

[metros]

Garage time has been limited lately with a 36" snow storm a couple weekends ago. It has actually almost all melted now. Finding that my snow blower belt was chewed up on the 2nd pass of my driveway was extremely unamusing.

Yesterday I received a big box of parts from Factory Five. These are potentially the first of the new front ends shipped out.

Pics!
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160206_104918_zpsbuc3ojcg.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160206_104926_zps2anbyfvv.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160206_104937_zpsml3hxaxo.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160206_104952_zps7u4axgwq.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160206_113447_zps82jvfkg9.jpg

Thoughts on the new fenders - they're going to drastically improve the look of the front end, but it's going to take some work to get them in proper shape.

Associated Parts:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160206_105017_zpsv1jem5ze.jpg

[metros]

Hella Headlight upgrade:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160206_105041_zpscrokffgz.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160206_112032_zpso9ft8roa.jpg

The headlight buckets that has been holding everything up: :unamused:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160206_105049_zpskgr0gygg.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160206_105059_zpsqkawf7wk.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160206_105109_zpsz0gxwfql.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160206_110151_zpsazwtjqbk.jpg

For some reason these are 2 pieces that seem to be plastiwelded together and oddly cut to not interfere with the fenders. The way everything aligns between the two pieces isn't confidence inspiring that the headlights will be aligned correctly or even look reasonable installed. *sigh*

If any of you want specific pictures let me know. I'd be happy to take pics of whatever you'd like.

[Kurk818]

Are the headlight lenses on back order?

Looks great. Looks like my front end is still a month out :/

[Hindsight]

Cool! I will be very interested to see how the headlights align to the road since I know that is a complaint people have had with the camry setup.

Looks like fiberglass body seams are now part of this kit! On the bright side, the cobra guys have been dealing with the seams for many years so there is a wealth of info over in the cobra forum and on the ffcars site too.

[Frank818]

Can the seams on the fenders require only buffering or they need fiberglass too? If it's just buffering it isn't that bad.

I'm also interested to know what lights are in the buckets that could act as side markers, if any? With or without reflectors?

[metros]

The lenses are in front of the buckets on the cardboard box. Just hard to see because they're clear.

I'm not sure on the seams. Hoping they can be wet sanded flush and buffed. But I think they'll require sanding, filler and paint.

[gwarden]

can we see a picture of the buckets laying in the fender?

[Mechie3]

Is there a piece of hardware that the lights mount to before attaching to the bucket?

[C.Plavan]

Just a FYI- Do not throw LED's into those Hella's. The Halogen lenses do not throw LED bulb light right. They ran into the problem on the NP01 at the 25hr race. They replaced with Halogen H9's bulbs and it was a ton better. Hella has a proper LED 90mm now. The BiLED is super pricey. My NP01 will have 4 Hella LED's (High Beam models only-still pricey but not like the others) Hella L4060

[07FIREBLADE]

They will definetly require sanding and filer to get them nice and cleaned up. Currently working on those exact seems for the last few weeks or so.

[Mitch Wright]

I really like the look of front fenders/headlights, not so sure about the front fascia yet.

[metros]

Gwarden - absolutely, I'm surprised I didn't think of that picture. Must've been because I was freezing my *** off.

Craig - I haven't opened all of the parts that were included. The clear zip lock with side markers may have something in it. But I don't believe there is anything that goes between bucket and headlight. The light has 4 studs and the bucket has 4 holes drilled in it around the light hole.

[metros]

Its been a few weeks since I've posted an update. We've had a few nice days sprinkled in where I was able to dedicate the day to the garage and enjoy the spring weather.

I've gotten my e-brake done and situated. I anchored the cables along the heat wall between engine and gas tank. I had to create this aluminum bracket to mount the brake cables to so that they don't pull towards the e-brake when you pull up on it.

Aluminum bracket:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160221_104057_zpsylutm0xj.jpg

Installed: The bracket also keeps the e-brake cables away from the wiring harness and prevents them from rubbing together.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160221_111444_zpsxsryac7w.jpg

I've got the center console cover slotted to play nice with the newly installed e-brake.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160221_122338_zpsmktamqym.jpg

I've also had the firewall bent an additional 15* to account for the slimmer Boyd fuel tank. This will give passengers several more inches of leg room. I ended up having to cut an additional inch off the top of the firewall because with the adjusted angle it pushed everything upward. That meant re-creating all of the mounting holes 1 inch lower on the top of the firewall. I also drilled the new mounting holes on the floor. As a finishing touch I'm planning on creating an aluminum cover that will take place of the gap in the gas tank mounting location as a result of the slimmer tank. That'll cover the holes from the first gas tank mounting as well as the sound deadening materials.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160227_142540_zpshwmjdda8.jpg

[metros]

I've also scuffed/sanded the new fenders/grill and sprayed them with DEI Boom Mat Spray - sound deadener. The grill probably didn't need this treatment but it really stiffens the panels up nicely and that would be worthy for doing the grill as well.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160227_155046_zpsshrdyell.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160227_155033_zpsrie05jhn.jpg

With the firewall shifted down I have re-situated the ECU in a better location to keep it happily tucked under the firewall.

My son and I will be taking the firewall and center console panels to powder coat this week. Once we get them back we can do a final install of the firewall. That'll allow me to final install the sides of the center console. That will allow me to sound deaden the footwells with dynomat. Then I can re-install the seats/harnesses. Then I can install the floor pan and finally the center console cover/shifter/e-brake. Many things are waiting on the firewall getting finished up.

Family Update:
It seems my son has moved on from wanting to use Daddy's tools directly into the driver's seat. Evidently I'm not the only one anxious to get this on the road.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160206_183511_zpsamcaiagy.jpg

[Hindsight]

Love the e-brake setup.... very clean. I'd love to do something similar with a Lokar handle but I have so many wires and two large AWIC hoses running through there - afraid there just isn't room.

Looking forward to seeing that new front-end go on!

[Mechie3]

Is that piece holding the cable ferrules a Subaru part or ffr part? I can't seem to find it.

[RM1SepEx]

Subaru part, he's just using it upside down. It is two pieces that clamp together. I mounted mine the same way, just welded up a bracket from steel vs his sweet aluminum one.

[metros]

^what Dan said. Subaru part straight from the donor.

I was surprised on how easy the aluminum was to work with. A little time with a torch and it was pretty easy to bend and tweak. Obviously I don't have the fab experience some builders here have.

[RM1SepEx]

Did you heat and quench it after to harden it back up to keep its shape?

[metros]

Each time I thought I had it where I wanted it I used water to cool it off. Not sure if doing that repeatedly is good/bad/indifferent to the material.

[metros]

I spent just a few minutes of this beautiful Sunday tweaking body panels. Shifted a few things around and had to hang the Mach V wheels in place to get a better look at this thing.

Well worth the time in mounting them:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160228_172604_zpsok8eepjo.jpg

Rear wheel to fender relationship: This is with 10mm spacers. Given the inner clearance I now have I could definitely cut down to a 5mm spacer and potentially go without any spacer. That would pull the wheel in just a bit more and prevent rocks from being slung onto the body.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160228_172619_zpshstfc4oi.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160228_172643_zpstu6un1dc.jpg

Headlight bucket held in place in fender cut out. There are places where there is a .5" gap between headlight bucket and fender. Awesome job.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160228_161814_zpsqmgpfimb.jpg

Photogenic headlight assistant:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160228_161840_zpshb2jkr7w.jpg

For those that have purchased this part from Mechie - how far from the rear of the quarter did you mount it? I have it positioned 11" up for the rear end of the quarter and it looks good. I just don't want to have to reposition it later on because it interferes with something. BTW - if you haven't picked this up from Zerodecibel Motorsports - I highly recommend it. The threads are opposite which means you twist 1 direction to draw them together and the opposite to push them apart. Really helps with adjustments.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160228_170130_zpsulqzlsfs.jpg

For those that have mounted the new front end - where did you weld on the new front fender supports? How far from the tip of the nose?

[RM1SepEx]

It's impossible to know where it is crystal structure wise...

You typically get it to a certain temp, I'd use acetleyne torch and run no O2 to get it all soot covered, then heat it to burn off the soot with a hot flame using the O2. That anneals (softens) the metal. Then you push and pound until you get it where you want it. After that I'd heat it up again to anneal it and quench in oil, water usually quenches too fast and the grain structure isn't correct... That will get you a strong piece.

I'd reheat the part and re-quench trying to stabilize everything. Sadly it's been too long since my school work to give you a proper/correct answer. Perhaps a more recent grad who hasn't been losing brain cells for 35 years since college and 25 years of dealing with Multiple Sclerosis can give you a better answer. I don't like using aluminum for a stressed part as when it fails it cracks and breaks. Steel yields and distorts if over stressed. At least it is an emergency brake bracket typically used when sitting still.

[RM1SepEx]

Re Craig's brace, add your rear trunk hinges, mine is placed so it goes across inside of Craig's hinges. I also use it as a place to hold down my engine hatch so that I don't need the hood pins. Add screws into 2 x 2 aluminum angle in the front of the engine cover and I have no hood pins there too

51129 51155

I did tweak his brackets a bit and make my own...

[metros]

Good idea on the engine cover. I'm not using hinges in the rear because I'll have the r wing to work around.

[STiPWRD]

The new front end is looking great! Can't wait to get mine. Is there really 1/2" gaps between the head light bucket and fender? That seems excessive. Could it be clamped together to help settle the gaps over time?

[metros]

Thanks! Yes, at some points the bucket is perfectly flush against the fender. Other places there is 1/2" of space between the bucket and fender. There isn't really a way to clamp the bucket to the fender as it mounts up underneath the opening. I think a heat gun may be necessary to get them to mate together. Then I worry about deforming the bucket altogether or it affecting the aim of the headlight itself.

I'm off work today and tomorrow because our daycare is closed for the week (for health issues). Today I took the boy to drop off a bunch of things to be powdercoated including the firewall and front fender support structures, which will all be done Friday.

Tomorrow glass is getting installed.

It's an exciting time in my build. I've had getting the firewall bent/refit and glass installed on my 'to do' list for several months. It's a great feeling to get things checked off your list. The glass installer stopped to take a look at it today and make sure he brought the right supplies with him tomorrow. I think he's semi sold on building an 818. After we spoke on the phone this morning he spent awhile learning about them on the FFR website.

[metros]

Updates:

In preparing to work on body fitment, I used Duplicolor trim and bumper paint on the door cards to match the treatment on the dash.

Before:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160305_120058_zpsij77xrmn.jpg

After: *Dried for several hours*
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160305_143733_zpsyixiooyg.jpg

The previously pictured bracket I made for mounting the e-brake presented an issue. My slot for the e-brake cable to pass through was misplaced and as a result created a weak point right at the tip of the sharpie marker pictured below. As a result the metal there was becoming fatigued and easily bent.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160313_123928_zpsllbkoi61.jpg

To correct the problem I re-made the bracket and this time positioned the slot in a more accurate position, which left plenty of meat at the stress point to stay strong. I also left 1/4" of the side of the angle strictly to stiffen it up. Bending this one also took far less trial & error, which I think will keep the metal stiffer as well.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160313_112151_zpsq9bd18n1.jpg

The side panels of the center console returned from powdercoat. I applied sound deadening and final installed them.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160306_104204_zpsbglfvavn.jpg

I also applied sound deadening to the foot wells. I thought this was one of the most important places to apply sound deadening. Most of the aluminum panels (front firewall, interior pieces, etc.) are not only riveted in place but also have silicone applied at meeting places prior to riveting. This is in hopes of preventing a rattle trap. My thought is that the floor panels will magnify any rattles/vibration that the other panels have. Weight is the only downside of this addition but it's at the lowest point of the center of the vehicle (best place to have to add weight) and weight savings have been made in other areas (light wheels, light brakes, etc) to justify this.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160313_112201_zpsgnscpowt.jpg

[metros]

Windshield installed! *Check*
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160313_123629_zpsp7rbukwr.jpg

Molding was used to make it look great.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160313_124247_zpsvcnx0rm2.jpg

ECU now has a mounting location that will work with the new angles of the firewall.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160313_124005_zpskr9imxho.jpg

New front nose design support pieces back from powder coating.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160313_123840_zps6zz8e7gr.jpg

Booty glamour shot - Needs bigger wheels/tires.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160313_123710_zpsmb5uexlx.jpg

Family shot
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160301_161537_zpsrsbupnz3.jpg

[Mechie3]

You probably have it mentioned, but what size tires? Any rubbing?

[metros]

265/35/18 in the rear. I haven't had the body installed when it was resting on the tires yet. As is the body is only clamped in place. I'm making little tweaks to it here and there before I focus on installing it.

As pictured I have a 10mm spacer in the rear. I know I can get it down to 5mm spacer at least and potentially be able to get rid of using a spacer with some further tweaking of the rear suspension.

[Frank818]

As pictured I have a 10mm spacer in the rear. I know I can get it down to 5mm spacer at least and potentially be able to get rid of using a spacer with some further tweaking of the rear suspension.

I have same tire size (although in real life for different tire brands of the same size the width may vary slightly) and no spacers, on a body that's never been fitted yet. I have a set of 5mm spacers I kept from my Corrado so it will have to fit with either no spacers or 5mm spacers. :)

[Pearldrummer7]

Frank and Metros- What is your wheel size/offset?

[Frank818]

18x9.5 35mm

[metros]

Mine are 18x9.5 +42 offset on the rear.

[metros]

Mini Update:
Time lately has been in short supply and limited forward progress. However, I now have all the body panels loosely hung on the chassis. I'm just starting the dance of tweaking here, pushing there, clamping here, taping there to try and get everything lined up. My main goal this past weekend was just to get everything roughly lined up and let it sit for the work week to adjust to its form. Fiberglass panels will shift and settle into position with time and weight on your side.

Pictures!
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160403_131023_zpsmo8efysr.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160403_131131_zps0hxiu2ic.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160403_131114_zpslaj5it7j.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160403_131212_zpsxw2qbppu.jpg

The fabled windshield/fender corner of the new front end. This is how I've trimmed it and it now fits very closely to the windshield without touching. I did cut around 1/4" off the bottom of the windshield surround as well.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160403_123125_zpsdkl81ca4.jpg

[metros]

Homemade sealing ring for the gas tubes. Had a family member put a bead around the tube and then I ground them down to where they needed to be. Not the prettiest but they won't ever be visible when installed and will help keep the gas where it belongs.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160402_105458_zpscshrttku.jpg

The above means I could finally get some gas back in the tank and fire it back up. It's been months since I've run it and I've had a lot taken apart and put back together since then. Nice to hear it fire right up. My son now requests to 'drive the noisy car'. :)

For those builders who have upgraded to the Boyd fuel tank and re-bent the firewall to take advantage of the additional leg room - it creates an area that shows your sound deadening under the gas tank. I created a small aluminum panel that I can install there to keep everything clean looking. This will hide my silver sound deadening material and the first set of firewall mounting holes prior to upgrading everything.

I'm contemplating leaving it angled as is and finding a simple mounting solution to keep it in place or drilling all of the firewall/gas tank mounting hole locations and tucking it under all of that hardware.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160403_135538_zpsrahlggmi.jpg

Last weekend I was fortunate enough to participate in a 'Go Baby, Go' event. This program was created out of the University of Delaware and takes children's power vehicles and modifies them for children with mobility disorders (i.e. cerebral palsy, etc). Instead of a gas pedal, most are powered with a large push button. Then support systems are made for each specific child's needs with PVC tubing, pool noodles, etc. to provide whatever assistance the child needs. All of this program is based on the principle that children who have the ability to explore their environment have a greater ability to develop skills.

Overall, I can't explain how much fun it was to modify these little cars and then see the children's faces as they made the connection with pushing this button and making the car go. We're already planning a bigger and better event for Washington DC for the fall.

Vehicle example:
http://anythingbrilliant.com/home/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/Instructions.jpg

[metros]

A few more boxes checked off this weekend! Feels good man!

I drilled and tapped the air to water intercooler for inlet/outlet temperature sensors. Mach V offers this little gauge specifically for this purpose where you can monitor these temperatures or the difference from pre-intercooler and after intercooler air temps. Neat technology.

I laid a typical 3" extension underneath the gauge to show the size. Should look good installed!
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160410_133828_zpsajyd0rhn.jpg

Cut out the rear bumper exhaust exit. Currently the muffler is just spot welded in place and will be adjusted to be perfectly centered once the car is registered.

Also cut out the tail lights and turn signal holes as well as drilled the mounting holes.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160410_134031_zpsyqy4gbgb.jpg

With the rear bumper bolted on, I can start adjusting the rear 3/4 position in order to get good gaps for the engine cover/trunk cover. I've found that both of those pieces have flattened out while being in storage. I have the center shimmed upward and taped/weighted the edges down to restore some of the shape. It'll stay in this position for the work week and hopefully retain the shape to some degree for next weekend's work.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160410_134053_zpsgzblpoti.jpg

Painted the headlight buckets with the dash/trim paint I've been using on all my plastics. The finish looks more uniform and nicer than prior to paint. All of the plastics on the car have gotten this treatment.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160410_134344_zpsvjeu7gts.jpg

The cover for the gas tank gap that I created last week was re-created for rendition 2.0. I decided to add an inch of width in order to allow me to create a 90* bend on the front most side. That has made it significantly stiffer and will fit more tightly in the opening as well as mount easier.

I don't have a brake press in order to bend aluminum neatly and couldn't find any reasonably priced options to purchase for home use. I ended up using a long piece of 90* aluminum angle as the base and clamped another on top to keep everything on the finish side straight. Then used wide mouth pliers to start the bend and hammered to the angle aluminum to finish the bend. The bend side is a little beat up but won't be seen when installed. The practice was good for me and it really drove home that I'll need to take my aluminum template of my dash piece to a shop to get perfect bends that I'll be happy with.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160410_134146_zps2l31zfqo.jpg

[Frank818]

Rasmus' build thread has a nice way to bend aluminum. He's on page 3 of the build threads.

[metros]

The weekend turned out to be beautiful! The weather actually helped with my body fitment that I worked on over the weekend. I pulled the 818 out into the sun and let the heat warm up the panels to facilitate being bent and pulled into the correct location.

Throughout the weekend I would return to places I had twisted/stretched into shape and find that I could tweak them just a little more and hold tension with large stretches of painters tape. Then return to working on other portions of the car in between. The final results are below.

Passenger side sail to engine cover to trunk cover. The gap isn't perfectly consistent from start to finish, but it's getting much closer to that.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160417_171323_zpsd70ni7pj.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160417_171330_zpswfyurgn5.jpg

Driver side:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160417_171347_zpsj5bldlm8.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160417_171357_zps2uiqkapj.jpg

[metros]

This is the gap between engine cover and trunk cover, it's around 1/4" to 3/8"
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160417_171406_zps3mwimstp.jpg

However, that gap will be split between the trunk cover and rear bumper, which as seen below has been pulled very tight.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160417_171435_zpskklak53f.jpg

Previously I had questioned whether or not the panels will retain the shape I'm pulling them into once they cool off. I can't say definitively that they will. But when re-positioning the tape to pull the panels a little closer I can say that the tension required to do so was much less than when I first started.

My $.02 on what was especially useful. Prior to this build I had no experience with any type of body fitting or body work. I've now just scratched the surface with some mild cutting and block sanding here and there. I found that the 2" wide painters tape did an exceptional job in pulling things where I was happy. Plus it allowed me to make minor changes here and there to produce the final result, which was very helpful.

This weekend I also dropped the headlight lenses off at a sign shop to have them put a vinyl trim around the outer most 1". With the curves in the lens there is no way a beginner such as myself would get it to a place I'm happy with.

I also installed the rear lights, which is fun to see some finishing pieces put into place.

The best part of the weekend was taking it for a spin around the neighborhood with my son on my lap. We didn't do anything but idle down the street at 15mph but he was ecstatic and it definitely turned some heads in the neighborhood, most trying to figure out what it was I'm sure.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160417_1702280_zpsm7mpfo2m.jpg

You'll also see that I bolted the door frames into place. I'm just starting to fit the doors but needed to get a start on it so I can envision how the pieces go together while I'm in boring meetings at work this week. Only a car guy plans mental projects for the work week while waiting for the next build opportunity.

[Hindsight]

Looking good! Why are you putting vinyl on the headlights?

[metros]

The lens needs a border to cover the double sided tape that holds it on. I could've painted but I think the vinyl will look better until I have the car professionally painted.

[Hindsight]

Ah got it. I haven't even taken my headlights out of the box, let alone tried installing them. Vinyl seems like a great idea.

[UnhipPopano]

Will the border be on the outside with the tape on the inside, or do you plan on both being on the inside?

[metros]

Vinyl will be on the outside surface in case I need to remove the lens. Otherwise it would get torn up when pulling off.

[metros]

I've been continuing to re-adjust the body lines little by little and repositioning the tape to hold the tweaks in place. Now I'm to the point where I'm pretty happy with the side sails, engine cover, trunk cover and doors.

Now I'm working on the front fenders, hood and bumper. Today I clamped the front bumper together with the front fenders and then worked to get the hood to fit in between the fenders. I'm finding that the hood flattened out some just like the trunk cover did. I used paint sticks in the fender/hood gaps to get it to bow up some in the middle and hopefully it will massage into place in the next few days.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160501_141740_zps2q3tkub3.jpg

Last weekend I installed the door strikers and trimmed the door skin to fit with striker in place. It isn't complex work fitting/installing the doors, but it is labor intensive. There is a lot of installing/removing to make little tweaks. I have the door seal plates that sandwich between the hinges and side sail plates out to powder coating for final install next weekend.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160417_171454_zps9aasgd3a.jpg

Doors loosely in place - waiting for powder coated parts to return for final assembly.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160501_141802_zpsrxvqv4xy.jpg

I've also created my console panel that fits between center console and dash. This will house my dual gauges and Mach V intercooler before/after gauge.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160501_141815_zpssqtoonxm.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160501_141858_zps6jz0jnib.jpg

From the above I've created a template for a carbon fiber panel to house the gauges. Then they'll match the switch panel higher on the dash.

It's always nice to have someone willing to help vacuum up all the mess in the garage.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160501_105429_zps3shxzz4l.jpg

[metros]

Almost forgot - I got the headlight lenses back from having the vinyl strip added around the outside edge. Turned out ok.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160501_145845_zpsspgfmbuf.jpg

[Hindsight]

Coming together nicely. Have you enjoyed the body or mechanical portions of the build the most?

[metros]

The mechanical such as suspension and brakes has been my favorite. That's where my experience was prior to the build and so much of it went together very quickly.

I am enjoying the body fitment way more than I anticipated. I think it's because I've been fairly successful with it thus far and it drastically changes the appearance, which feels like progress.

[STiPWRD]

I like the vinyl on the lenses and your body is coming together really nice.

[Hindsight]

I liked the mechanical portion better because, like you, that is where I have most of my experience. The body stuff has been trying. A lot of fitting, removing, fitting, putting back together, then repeat a bunch of times. I don't like the removing and re-installing cycles so much. Lots of dust too. But, it's getting closer to being finished and on the road which I'm excited about.

[Mechie3]

Is the vinyl one piece with the center cut out?

[metros]

Thanks for the compliments. I think my success with body work is because of my over critical eye to detail. I paid for my s2000 turbo set up by detailing cars on the side. That was of course before kids came along and I could throw 20 hours at a job without batting an eye. You're right that there is a lot of fitting, removing, tweaking and reinstalling.

Craig - the vinyl is overlapped in one corner, not one cut out. I would think it would be very difficult to get it perfect with 1 cut out ring with the contour of the lens.

[STiPWRD]

So my new front end finally showed up yesterday and I was doing a quick test fit. I'll follow the way you trimmed the corners and windshield surround in post #368, thanks for the heads up. Also, where do you get your parts powder coated? I'm thinking I'll get the brackets all mounted first and see if I need to trim anything and then have them powder coated. I've used a shop in Gaithersburg before but they're a bit of a hike.

[metros]

I use Frederick County customs. They'll be quite a hike for you as well but maybe better than Gaithersburg. I would go ahead and get the nose brackets powder coated. I can't imagine a need for you to modify them. They have a ton of adjustment out of the box.

[Frank818]

Nice body alignment!

[AZPete]

Oops, all your photos dropped off.

Edit: Oops, oops, lots of other photos in lots of other threads also dropped. Not your error.
Edit 4 hours later: pics are back. I guess this was a problem on my end. Oops. Carry on.

[Frank818]

Metros, your driver's fender wasn't longer than the passenger's? Both fit perfect?

[metros]

Haven't finished fitting the front end. Didn't have much of a chance this past weekend.

[metros]

Sunday updates:
Garage time has been limited over the past several weeks with additional work obligations on the weekends. Now that the unimportant work stuff is over I can focus on what's really important!

-The aluminum panel pictured above was bent to shape by my friends at Mach V. I had the driver side bent a little less than 90* and the passenger side bent a little more than 90* so that in the end it's oriented to the drive slightly. The passenger can still see it but it's easier for the driver. My s2000 had every control in the cockpit oriented to the driver and I always like that feature.

Here it's pictured after I decided to make one side removable in case I need access and don't want to remove the whole thing.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160506_141948_zpsaqij2c2t.jpg

Mocked up in position:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160506_143115_zpshka0ezoh.jpg

It has since returned from powdercoat and been affixed with a carbon cover. I wanted it to match the control panel that sits above this from Longacre racing.

Final Install with bling rivets: Gauges to come.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160522_145226_zps1s1ct2rm.jpg

Received a bunch of parts back from powder coating. The door strikers and inside door panels for the end of the door between panel and shell. Among other things.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160506_155554_zps84y0pfcg.jpg

That allowed me to work on final fitment of the doors over the weekend. I have finished 1 of the doors with interior panel, interior weather shield for end of door, strikers, and hinge adjustment. I'm still messing with the hinges to get it exactly as I'd want it.

I'm pretty happy with the fitment but the edge of the fiberglass keeps catching the side sails just a touch when opening/closing the door. I've used larger than the 1/8" spacers when aligning the door but it seems like the fiberglass sags a little after the spacers are removed with hinges tight. The bottom edge of the door sticks out just a hair too much as well, haven't figured out how to keep that where I want it as the hinge adjustment doesn't make any difference on that.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160522_141935_zpsfmzcplnd.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160522_141616_zpstyu7sovm.jpg

Looking forward to next weekend. I've secured Friday off and we're closed Monday for Memorial - 4 day weekend!

[Frank818]

Working on the doors, cool I'll follow that closely. Nice console. I kept the FFR alu one, slightly moded, hopefully it'll come out good enough.

[STiPWRD]

I love the carbon fiber on the console, did you lay that yourself or was it a pre-made flat sheet? I was thinking of doing a carbon fiber overlay on the stock 02 center console except with gauges in place of the HVAC controls. The CF would also cover up the smaller unused buttons.

I had the same issue with my doors as well, the edge of the door would catch on the door sil when opening/closing. I fixed it by doing 2 things. First I trimmed the edge of the fiberglass door around the striker area where it meets the inner door card but this did not solve the rubbing. The issue is that the door frame pushed the fiberglass door rearward towards the side sail and you can only adjust the door forward so much before you can not longer engage the striker. I had to carefully sand down the thickness of the fiberglass from the inside around the striker, which did the trick. I used the sanding wheel on my angle grinder.

[metros]

When you say sand the fiberglass on the inside, does that mean on the side sail surface or door surface? I started sanding the edge of the door where it was catching but then left it for the day.

[STiPWRD]

When you say sand the fiberglass on the inside, does that mean on the side sail surface or door surface? I started sanding the edge of the door where it was catching but then left it for the day.

I sanded the inner door fiberglass surface where it makes contact with the door frame latch area. Right where the 3 countersunk bolts go through the door fiberglass, through the door frame metal and into the latch. It essentially reduces the thickness from the door latch to the outer skin of the door and gives more clearance b/w door and side sail.

[metros]

Had beautiful weather over this Memorial day weekend and really got to put in some time in the garage.

I finished up both door installs and interior door panels. Initially I used 3/16" rivets to attach the skins to the door panels. But I've already found out that they're a PITA to drill out. The small aluminum rivets drill out in a cinch. But these larger ones seem harder to drill out with the bit perfectly centered. Looking for better alternatives.

I used 2x1 box and a layer of alumalite to build up the door handle pull. I smoothed the backside of the door handles and they sit perfectly flat when everything is installed. The alumalite is countersunk to allow a perfectly flat surface for the door handle to mount to.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160530_132539_zpsf2nxn2i5.jpg

Installed: Used the same gold rivets as the center console.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160530_141847_zps2ixogbwl.jpg

General interior shot:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160530_141831_zps1b7iymnt.jpg

I had the guys at Mach V reinforce my e-brake bracket with some additional bracing. I was worried that over time the aluminum would fatigue.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160529_110002_zpsqf0enlbd.jpg

Also installed these side mirrors - which have added a lot to my drives around the neighborhood with my son. Took him around the development today and he's happy as a clam to sit on my lap and putter around the block. Fun times.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160530_183519_zps1redsahy.jpg

Finished this cover behind the seats. This takes up the space that is freed up with using the Boyd tank. It also covers all the bolts for the lower firewall to floor junction.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160530_183509_zpsg090elfg.jpg

Next weekend I'll be able to focus on aligning the front end then start bolting panels in place. :)

[Hindsight]

Yeah, we do have the same mirrors. Nice.

Do you have the padded door panels? I see you riveted your aluminum trim covers to them.... my trim covers won't even fit into the recess of the padded door panels - the trim piece is too big.

[metros]

My interior panels don't have any padding, just regular plastic. I actually had the forethought to test fit those aluminum pieces prior to powder coating. They required minor trimming to sit in place nicely.

[longislandwrx]

you've inspired me to put my doors together, all the parts are just taking up so much room.

[metros]

It's labor intensive to get everything to fit together nicely, but satisfying once complete.

[metros]

The last several weeks have produced little time in the garage and little motivation to get out there. I've taken another promotion from my previous position and lined myself up for some great opportunity for further promotion in the next year or two. With that said, I'm putting in more time at work than I ever have as I feel behind the 8-ball with taking on a bunch of new responsibilities/tasks.

I have taken up the driver lightening work again as a means to de-stress after hard days at work.

The time I have spent in the garage has been re-completing some previously finished work. I took apart the steering rack again to check thread engagement with the outer tie rod ends. I'm now satisfied and comfortable with the amount of thread engagement on each side. I have tracked down a brake fluid leak and addressed that.

Forward progress:
-I've shaved off the casting marks of the front fenders. This was more labor intensive than I had anticipated. Sanded down smooth all the way to wet sanding with 1500 grit. The way it feels now I think I could even buff it out back to having a gloss finish. But that wouldn't address the black lines where there wasn't enough gel coat in the casting marks.

Before:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160206_104926_zps2anbyfvv.jpg

After:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160626_151708_zpsm0z3ujxx.jpg

Currently working on lining up the front end. I've gotten it much closer to finished but I'm still not happy with a few areas.

The fender to hood gaps are fairly consistent and can be perfected with some minor tweaks.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160626_151731_zpsbkek0ikc.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160626_151841_zpsjubxhtim.jpg

However, the corner of hood/fender/door/windshield still doesn't look right. Seems like there is a big gap there that I haven't worked out yet. I'm open to any tips or recommendations from 818 builders that have addressed this.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160626_151801_zpsl96x1u6e.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160626_151810_zpswv94upo6.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20160626_151743_zpsa9gxeedp.jpg

Otherwise I'm inching along as always.

[Mechie3]

I think that corner looks like that on most cars. I chalk it up to design decisions that didn't focus on optimizing that junction. Most OEM cars seem to have the leading edge of the door even with the back edge of the windshield frame. With the doors wrapping up and around the windshield frame ends up floating instead of being able to sit flush with the fender which would hide that gap.

[metros]

It's been quite awhile since I've updated my build threads. Over summer I took some time off from the build as it started to feel like work instead of a hobby. My time has been limited since starting back at it but I have been making a bit of progress.

I have finished leveling all of the body panels. When FFR pulls them out of the molds they have more lip than necessary, which creates panels that aren't flush with one another. Some careful measuring/planning and a belt sander has rectified that situation.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20161210_182748_zpselp0zpup.jpg

I have also finished the mounting of 4 of the quick release latches (the small black circles) that are holding the engine/rear cover down. I'm thinking I'll need 2 more for the engine cover, just to be sure it's not moving around while driving.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20161210_182729_zpshcl0jvau.jpg

I've done some finish work in creating a carbon overlay for the center console and wired/installed the gauges.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20161218_141546_zpss9xpdbtj.jpg

This weekend I put together and installed most of the hood hinge that I'll be using. This is coming after many hours positioning the front end until I'm somewhat satisfied with it's fit. Needs just a touch of trimming at the rear of the hood corner, but otherwise it's not too bad. I'm not sure if you ever get truly 100% satisfied in these types of builds.

The hood hinge requires you to get creative in adding some studs to the inside of the hood. I've purchased some fancy hardware, high end 3m panel bond, and fiber glass to reinforce once that's all in place. Once all is finished with this it will tilt forward to open, which I always think is cool when I see that at car shows.

Hardware (resting position):
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20161218_141517_zps4d30rjgk.jpg

Open:
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20161218_141528_zpslbskrlkl.jpg

[metros]

Hood prepped and adhesive mount studs:
I roughed up the mounting surface in preparation for the panel bond. I'll be spraying the surface with heat/sound deadening after the studs are in place.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20161218_141546_zpss9xpdbtj.jpg

I've trimmed the studs for the front upper control arms so that I can align it to actually have some negative camber instead of positive. Also purchased a longacre bubble tool for alignments. I'm sure it won't give a spot on alignment but it'll at least give me some more direction in giving it a garage guesstimate.

Installed a rear coolant overflow container.

Finished permanent install of the side sails. Using gold steel rivets to hold on this cover/reinforcement. Goes with the gold wheels :)
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20161106_121116_zpsxe0tpejp.jpg

Next up I'll be installing the hood aerocatch flush latches to keep that in place. Also plan to start focusing on the headlight mounting/installation. Haven't figured out the wiring for the new headlights yet and how to modify my beautiful iWire harness to accommodate the updated lights. At some point I need to add the Holley Hydramat that I picked up to keep the fuel pump fed. Then on to splash shields.

My son has turned three this month (same as my car build). He will take you down if you sneak up on him!
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20161216_171838_zps6ol8hrlj.jpg

Can I get that punch list widdled down before driving season?

[Frank818]

Permanent side sails installation. I wish I could do that, but requires too frequent removal for me.

Remind me your black sound deadening is?

Your hood clearance relative to the fenders is awesome. That too I wish I could do it but I need clearance for my wiper so I need to keep the hood as high as possible. Too bad...

[metros]

Dei spray sound deadener

[STiPWRD]

Over summer I took some time off from the build as it started to feel like work instead of a hobby.
Dude, I know exactly how you feel. I took a break from the build this fall by getting my motorcycle license and fixing up an old honda cb750 into a cafe racer, it's nearly done. It was a nice change of pace and talk about a piece of cake compared to the 818 (10x cheaper too). Glad to see you back at it.

[metros]

Updates!

I have bonded the studs to the hood using 3M 08115. This stuff is very impressive for being a 2 part epoxy. It requires a special gun to apply the correct amount of the 2 parts and a mixing tip that spirals the mixture together probably 50x before exiting the tip. Bonding strength is very impressive and this stuff requires a hammer and chisel to remove from dirty concrete (garage floor).

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20170129_122330_zpsl9eq5dtl.jpg

Just to ensure the hood studs were fully bonded and had no chance of freeing up while driving, I fiberglassed over the bases that were previously bonded (above). This was my first try at fiberglass. If I were going to try again I would spend a little more time working air out from under the fiberglass. At the time of application it didn't seem like I had as much as after everything cured. But since the fiberglass was really over and above necessity I'm not terribly concerned.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20170205_125041_zpsxxrtgpmn.jpg

After that was all cured I sprayed the unfinished section with sound deadener just like the rest of the hood.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20170205_132429_zps3tankolt.jpg

I have made some progress with the headlights, just nothing to really show via picture. I've got the mounting holes all drilled and actual headlights adjusted to fit the pods correctly. Now I'm taking a look at the wiring to see how to make that work.

[Hindsight]

Wow there's a name I haven't seen in a minute. Glad you are still at it. Smart move, glassing over the studs. I have had several studs pop off on me - even ones that had low load on them (ones that were holding Mechie's hood louvers in place). But after I started glassing over them, I haven't had an issue yet, even on the studs that are forcing the headlights upward and have a ton of pressure on them. Your's should hold great.

[metros]

^That's good to hear. That's also why I went with 4 studs on each side. Extra holding strength spread over a wider load.

[Frank818]

I knew you'd like the 8115. :) I mix it by hand and gauge proportions by eye, maybe not the best it works pretty good.

Your hood is awesome man, it's awesome. With 4 studs per side there's no way this thing will fall off. I noticed 2 per side is enough, although I'd like that added security of 2 more. Maybe another day after I register.

Keep up the good work like that.

[metros]

Its been quite awhile since I've posted any updates. My time the past several months has been extremely limited. Promotion at work is great for the fiscal budget, not so great on the time budget.

The hinges are finished and installed. Since my last update I have bonded aluminum rod to further stiffen the hood. I was finding it very flexible when tipped forward.

Picture: All covered with sound/heat deadening now, of course.
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20170304_135942_zpsxj6yugoo.jpg

I need to take a picture of the hood tipped forward to show how awesome it looks! I've always had a thing for hoods that opened this way. That and center exit exhaust systems.

This weekend I installed a windshield wiper that will provide enough to get me past inspectors. This car won't ever be driven in rain, and if I get caught in a storm then I just need to drive fast enough to stay dry.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20170430_180949_zpsaqs3n4df.jpg

You can also see the wiring retro that has been finished for my headlight upgrade. Now I just need to finish the headlight buckets up and then I can mount/plug in.

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m35/mxmetros6/818%20Build%20Album/20170429_174113_zps5nz4bz9q.jpg

To do:
-Install holley hydramat so that I don't have any fuel starvation.
-Install splash shields F&R
-Adjust e-brake to increase hold.
-Add more mounting hardware to door panel/door.
-Re-align door panels.
-Install aerocatch hood latches and prop hood slightly.
-Install seats permanently and install harnesses
-Install subfloor

At that point I think I'll have enough done to start the registration process at least. Maybe some of these things can be worked on while I'm working through the registration.

[Frank818]

Man your gaps are thin, I love it, so precise. I wish I could spend time on that too.

[metros]

They're not as nice as I would like them. I need to get it out in the sun for an afternoon again and re-adjust some of the panels. I've haven't taken it on a cruise around the neighborhood in too long as well :)

[AZPete]

Good work on stiffening the hood. On your list, move the front splash guards down until the doors and headlights are done because they block the door hinges and the back of the headlights.

[Harley818]

Hey metros, I know exactly what you mean about taking a break..... I have been doing the same on and off trying to fit lots of other aspects in.
Now that I'm back.... its more fun again.

I like what you did with the door trim and the gold rivets. looks good.
Also, I'm at the point where I am going to start sanding the body, and doing the fibreglass work. I just pulled off my hood yesterday to do the extra glass. Definitely needed. I wouldn't want it to pull loose at high speed.

Yesterday I did my alignment, today, bodywork starts.
good luck.
Harley

[metros]

Thanks for the tips Pete. Having the right sequence helps efficiency.

I'd like more time to work on the car. I've been doing essentially management jobs at work with around 40 direct reports. Our new manager starts tomorrow so I'll be able to have a more manageable workload once bringing her up to speed. Its good for the fiscal budget, not so much the time budget.

Thanks Harley, I enjoy finding those little touches when putting the car together. I feel that with more experience on builds of this level I'll be able to better foresee opportunities for these kinds of little details. Good luck with the body work. Have experience in doing that kind of work?

[metros]

Build updates! This thread has been silent far too long. I have since fixed all the broken images.

Had some good time over the long Memorial Day weekend to get some work done in the garage.

-Replaced some hoses running from the remote brake reservoir to the master cylinder. Re-tightened some of the fittings as well. Think I have finally fully addressed an annoying brake fluid leak that I had.

-All of the front splash guards and under panels have been fitted, drilled, coated with bed liner to sound deaden them and installed permanently. This included creating some air dams to surround the air to water intercooler radiator. Any air coming into the nose of the car will now have to go through both radiators, which will improve the efficiency of the cooling system.

Fitted
https://i.imgur.com/FxxjgO5.jpg

Laid out for coating
https://i.imgur.com/w1ySJMO.jpg

Start
https://i.imgur.com/ncwn7yd.jpg

Installed/finished:
https://i.imgur.com/UjJWcgo.jpg

Only thing missing is the front bumper to fill in this opening.
https://i.imgur.com/GMHx4Lt.jpg

Front wheel well start
https://i.imgur.com/unzsi5z.jpg

[metros]

Front wheel wells finished
https://i.imgur.com/41Niaqx.jpg

-Also had a chance to wrap up the hood pin install. Turned out pretty good. I wouldn't have chosen this exact location, but the mounts from FFR are here, which doesn't leave a lot of choice without cutting re-welding. The front of the hood is hinged.

https://i.imgur.com/uTXJ3Ll.jpg

The past 9 months has really been focused on prepping our home to sell. We are closing on our home sale and new home next week. The new home cuts our commute more than half and has 3 acres - plenty of room for a proper workshop.

https://i.imgur.com/alSWFZ3.jpg

This little man is now 4 years old and still loves going to the track with me.
https://i.imgur.com/JGUYyfA.jpg

[GoDadGo]

This little man is now 4 years old and still loves going to the track with me.
https://i.imgur.com/JGUYyfA.jpg

And he always will loving going to the track with you.

My son is nearly 20, and still loves going to the track with me and his Uncle Nard (Bernard).
He even met a young lady at college who now loves going with him, so how cool is that?
You are not building a car, but memories with your son instead.
The car is just langniappe!

[metros]

^Very true. Can't wait until he's old enough to start working alongside me.

Had another really productive weekend with the car.

Got the headlights wrapped up.
https://i.imgur.com/Fux5aeE.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/dcuDU0C.jpg

Next came the seats/harnesses.

Start:
https://i.imgur.com/QrAYVry.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/dILAp3J.jpg

Finished: Upper firewall was also installed.
https://i.imgur.com/8YTDhmh.jpg

Maybe I just needed a rapidly approaching deadline (moving) to get some things done on the car. Now back to debating whether I drive the car to the new house or pay to have it transported....

[STiPWRD]

I vote drive it!... but you may want to have a tow hitch ready.

[AZPete]

I like the nice clean work on the air dams around the radiator but I don't see any piece blocking the air gap between the radiator and hood. Between my donor radiator and the hood is a gap of over 4 inches so I made this baffle.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=87192&d=1528740619

[metros]

I planned on making something similar to what you did but found a better design to carry out the same purpose. It may have been posted on the 818 Facebook page. Someone created an aluminum dam for the topside that lined up with the bumper opening and then bent upward to mount at the top of the radiator. Hard to explain but carries out the same purpose.

I really want to drive it. But then the sensible side makes me second guess. I don't have anything arranged for the front end to be towed with

[STiPWRD]

Welding on some better support structure for a tow hook has been on my to-do list for a while now, I consider it a necessity. Otherwise, if you get stranded, you'll have to get towed backwards by a strap attached to the roll bar - ask me how I know.

[metros]

I think that will be after it's registered. Eye on the prize!

[metros]

The past several weeks have been a whirlwind between getting this car ready to drive to the new home, moving, and even a vacation. Time to update this thread!

The front end all wrapped up before transporting the vehicle. All the splash shields are finished/installed and the top fender guards are shown here.

https://i.imgur.com/TRfQN4j.jpg

Added a few speed holes to allow hot air to escape during the transport. Didn't think it would be absolutely necessary, but this only took 15 minutes and helped provide peace of mind.

https://i.imgur.com/23QXRhY.jpg

Rear wheel wells were installed (unpictured).

Sound deadening for the floor pan under the seats. Scraps of boom mat were really useful for these weird spaces, in addition to the DEI spray.

https://i.imgur.com/j9fSSrr.jpg

At the new home! No mechanical issues, fires, scraping or conversations with the law. Success!

Car gets quite a few looks and even a thumbs up from a young boy on the highway. :)

https://i.imgur.com/vAXlsMh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/gMGOGV5.jpg

[metros]

New garage is going to need some work to get right. I decided to do an epoxy coating on the floor before moving in. That is quite a project! The garage floor has had oil, grease, dirt, and grime for the past 30 years. I ground the really bad spots with a belt sander, degreased twice, and acid etched the floor twice before the coating. Turned out pretty good.

Before:
https://i.imgur.com/XzIkoS3.jpg

After:
https://i.imgur.com/uDrMPgl.jpg

Currently in the process of hanging numerous LED light bars. At the start it had one light bulb in the middle of the garage and the garage door opener light. I had trouble working in there in the middle of the day.

Many garage organizers are being installed as well as the lighting. Stay tuned for updates!

Vacation picture for good measure
https://i.imgur.com/IE7gNg4.jpg

[Aero STI]

The garage floor looks nice! Did you do it yourself or have it done?

[STiPWRD]

Congrats again on the new place, the new garage looks nice and wide! That must've been a fun drive too. So for your head light covers, did you end up painting the edge or doing vinyl?

[metros]

Thanks! I was hellbent on doing the floor before moving. Once all my tools were there it would've never happened.There was 30 years of neglect in that garage before I started. Ground the really bad spots, degreaser the whole thing 2x and acid etched the whole thing 2x. I used rustoleum product. I wish they gave you just a bit more product to go on a touch thicker. But otherwise I'm happy with it. I would recommend the antislip additive. I used it and the floor is still a bit slick when wet.

The headlight lenses have vinyl on the edges that a shop put on for me. I don't think paint would have come out nearly as nice, we'll at least rattle can paint.

[longislandwrx]

did you do the clear on top? that made a big difference with me and the durability... if its not too late i would recommend.

https://www.maperformance.com/products/megan-racing-h-brace-2002-2007-subaru-impreza-wrx-sb-hbwrx?variant=5330884931&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInszci-bO3AIVDhgMCh0uAw4yEAQYASABEgIv9vD_BwE

[turbomacncheese]

Garage looks great!

[lsfourwheeler]

I've helped do an epoxy floor before, it's very hard work! I like the sound deadening on the inner fenders, but I'm curious to see how it holds up to rocks over time.

[metros]

Thanks guys! I did not do the clear coat on top. I considered it, but in reality I wouldn't have had enough time to get that done before we had to move in. I'm hoping and thinking that this will be durable enough until I can have a separate workshop built.

I'm having a good time organizing all of the yard tools on an entire wall of the garage and my tool collection on the other side of the garage. Still working on getting all the lights installed as well.

[metros]

Nothing to my car, but almost finished (is it ever really finished) getting my new garage organized.

Before:
https://i.imgur.com/CIlbJNL.jpg

After:
https://i.imgur.com/CxnbK0l.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/oVcYSQr.jpg

-Epoxy coated the floor
-Added LED lighting - previous owner had 1 60w CFL light bulb in the entire garage.
-Added fancy pegboard with slats - lots of organization options with these.
-Fill with tools

Next up is adding 1.21 jigawatts of power to feed my compressor and future welding set up. Also need to get the wife's elliptical out of there.

[metros]

So this happened today! State Trooper came by to attach the VIN plate. At this point I can start the registration process - once I'm ready. I'm waiting on receipt of a tig welder that I ordered. I'd like to weld up my own exhaust. We'll see how practicing goes and if I can realistically learn that skill fast enough to do so.

Working on a punch list of items to wrap up prior to spring driving season.

My PM box awaits any recommendations for friendly inspection stations in or around Loudoun County. :derp:

https://i.imgur.com/z6XKVln.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/lBGxQy4.jpg

[Mitch Wright]

Congratulations.

[Mechie3]

I need to get back to work on mine. Haven't touched it in about 2 years now. :/

[metros]

Checking off a few little things as spring arrives.

Adjusted ride height. Front raised a bit, rear lowered a bit. Still working on adjusting the alignment to get it within reason prior to getting it inspected. Also adjusted the e-brake so that it'll hold firmly now.

Longacre toe plates
https://i.imgur.com/8mfuRmz.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/RztBudA.jpg

Have a bubble gauge to look at camber.

Broke down and bought a bumpsteer gauge as the 818 is especially susceptible to bumpsteer. Have a kit to get it closer to 0. Going to measure stock first and then add spacers until it's as close to 0 as possible.

https://i.imgur.com/4FeQHf6.jpg

Picked up a Burns muffler and plan to route it out the back right side instead of up high center. That change should keep most of the exhaust smell out of the car.

https://i.imgur.com/c4Eznbt.jpg

Heat ring to protect the fiberglass around the exhaust exit.

https://i.imgur.com/BUtGChM.jpg

Spring has brought about some nice driving days!
https://i.imgur.com/Q93YSCr.jpg

[Hindsight]

Great job on pulling the trigger on a bump steer gauge. INVALUABLE tool! Made such a huge difference for my 818. Expect to spend a lot of time with it though. But it's worth it.

[STiPWRD]

I'm curious to see how thick your bump steer spacers will be for optimum bump steer reduction. Are you running the pinto studs?

[metros]

Yes, using the pinto parts. Hindsight measured his to 46mm if I remember correctly. So I'm using that as guesstimate of where I'll end up. But we'll see. I've got the toe cleared up, that was way off. Next going to look at camber to the best of my ability. Then bump.

[Hindsight]

I didn't end up using the Pinto parts - I used the Baer kit for the Subaru. So the 46mm I measured was the thickness of the shim stack, but that factors in a lot of things like the taper bolt you use (where it's shoulder is) and the thickness of the rod-end that the taper bolt connects to. I think my 46mm measurement is only going to work if using the exact hardware I did (Baer Subaru kit).

[Bob_n_Cincy]

This my final setup using the Subaru BAER kit.
I had a bunch of other special things in my front suspension. So I don't think anyone should copy this.
Bob
105094

[STiPWRD]

Hindsight, what was your ride height?

Bob, how thick is your spacer from the ball joint to the shoulder on the stud? Looks like ~1" from the photo.

Thanks for sharing, I'm also trying to get a good starting point. I had my tapers machined down such that there is just about 1mm before the hex bottoms out on the spindle.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Bob, how thick is your spacer from the ball joint to the shoulder on the stud?

STiPWRD,
My 818 is in my garage and not at my shop. So I wasn't able to take an accurate measurement.
Please note again. I have other front end suspension mods so YRMV.

105096


Another note about the above picture. I'm using a 2012 5MT transmission. It doesn't have a VSS. So i'm using a prox sensor on the front wheel cv joint. Works great for a couple of years so far.

On a good note, my front tire (235/40-17) wear is looking good for at least 2 or 3 track weekends this summer. I estimate 40% of tread left. On my last set I ran them until they were slicks.

105097

[metros]

Still wrapping up a few odds n ends on the car. Really just have one major hurdle before I can register the car/get it inspected.

Installed license plate lights for the rear. Also installed dual hella horns and the all important rear view mirror. These are all minor things but important for inspection time.

https://i.imgur.com/2DxpGil.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/CQ9YQgq.jpg

The alignment is now mostly finished. Toe/camber are within reason for my simple garage tools. Still working on bumpsteer. The gauge I've got isn't really cooperating. Going to give it another go before buttoning things up.

https://i.imgur.com/rO4dbR9.jpg

The last major hurdle I need to fall over is the exhaust. It's curretly routed straight out the back. But this leads to smelling like exhaust after driving the car. I have finally acquired all the tools/supplies to route this how I'd prefer. Just need some time to acquaint myself with my AHP welder. The good thing is that there is minimal obstructions to work around within the space. Good for a first timer.

https://i.imgur.com/Pd7pEdu.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/x1hXckh.jpg

[Mitch Wright]

I have had the same gauge for years what are you having issues with, maybe I can assist.

[metros]

I'm leaning the arm against the plate bolted to the hub as shown. When I Jack the suspension up the digital dial gauge isn't changing or reading the input it receives. Could just be the actual gauge itself.

[Frank818]

What's your bumpsteer gauge brand? Looks like same as Jeff's and his was working fine I believe.

Can you use it for the rear as well and will you use it for the rear?

If someday you want to sell that gauge, I'll be a buyer, assuming the gauge works once you know how to make it work. If you think the gauge is not much of quality then I'll pass.

[metros]

Figured out the bumpsteer gauge issue. I attached a manual spring loaded dial gauge and it worked beautifully. Something in the digital gauge just wasn't working correctly. The alignment is about as good as I can get it in my garage. The ride height is much better - had to raise the front a bit and lower the rear a bit to get it right.

Almost have my updated 818 exhaust all tacked up. Just need to finish the tip and punch a hole in the fiberglass. Going to need to find a heat barrier to keep the fiberglass protected. Quick question, now that I have a cat - should I put the o2 sensor before or after the cat?

https://i.imgur.com/UKxUSWH.jpg

[Frank818]

Nice looking exhaust!

I'd put the O2 before the cat, usually the sensor should be as close as the exhaust ports as possible I think for quicker reading response and/or better accuracy.

If you put 2 sensors then 1 before and 1 after the cat.

[Shawn818c]

Nice looking exhaust!

I'd put the O2 before the cat, usually the sensor should be as close as the exhaust ports as possible I think for quicker reading response and/or better accuracy.



Not true, I believe ~a foot away is ideal but obviously not possible in this case. Look at the major brands, cobb etc, none of them are as close to the flange as possible.

[metros]

It's interesting, there are some variances between brands. A Cobb catted downpipe has an o2 sensor after the cat and far away. Another brand has two bungs, one before cat right at the bellmouth and one after the cat far away. Seems it could go either way. I'm going to let my tuner recommend where it belongs.

Finished the tip today and punched a hole through the fiberglass for it. Very happy with its placement and looking forward to hearing what it sounds like.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Another brand has two bungs, one before cat right at the bellmouth and one after the cat far away.

I suspect that the one right after the bellmouth is for the EGT. I have heard that the OEM location right before the turbo can break off the tip of the EGT and destroy the turbo.
Bob

[metros]

To settle the debate - my tuner recommended after the cat. He reported that the bung right at the bellmouth is typically used for a wideband meter.

Cut out the front vents for my ZDB vents today. Can't wait to see it with all the vents installed. I think it will be a significant increase in aggressive appearance.

[metros]

Time for an update!

The exhaust system has been tacked together and taken to MachVMotorsports to be finish welded. To continue putting in the time learning I would have likely had to wait until Fall to finish welding this. Having MachV finish it up will get me on the road faster.

https://i.imgur.com/2YzvvqM.jpg

Sneak peak of the exit. Going to wait until I receive it back to open up the hole fully. That way if it pulls in any direction while welding I can cheat the opening in that direction.

https://i.imgur.com/ZKvGkpO.jpg

After dropping that off with Mach V I turned my attention to the body vents. Goodbye speed holes, hello fast vents! Made good progress on this over the long holiday weekend when I was able to steal some time.

These will be mounted beneath the body panels with only the fins poking up through the body hole. They all need to be sent to powdercoating before final install, but this is the preview.

https://i.imgur.com/T9iBoJN.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/n8INQRX.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/71Au2ah.jpg

This is the further rear top panel. This isn't over the engine, but allows heat from the rear of the car to exit. This is how all of these vents will be mounted.

https://i.imgur.com/eynDXld.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/9GzjlSU.jpg

I have two more vent panels to mount. One is the rear end of the car and the other set is for the humps behind the passengers - directly over the engine.

These are going to really make the appearance of this car much more aggressive. Can't wait to hear this exhaust system!

[metros]

Got back at it this weekend after getting back from vacation. It was a bit toasty in the garage but I still was able to get some forward progress.

Picked up the fully welded exhaust system from MachV. Welds look good and it only budged a tiny bit from the original positioning. Cut out the exhaust punch out, fitted the heat ring, and installed heat protection inside the body next to the exhaust system.

Cut out the final body vent openings in the humps behind the passengers. Now I'm ready to send all of the vents for powder coating.

https://i.imgur.com/N6NmHDu.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/heoegp5.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/AMygMuF.jpg

Going to officially register this during this week! I'm hoping to get to the DMV sometime during the week and have the inspection done over the weekend. So excited!

[Brd.Prey]

Looking good!

[STiPWRD]

Good luck! Fingers crossed

[metros]

Got my car registered and insured this week. Also dropped off the ZDB louvers for powdercoat. It was nice putting some miles on it and I tweaked the alignment a touch more which resulted in nice road tracking, very responsive to steering input, and maintained straight tracking over bumps. It was glorious.

Then my excitement was kicked in the balls and shoved in a garbage can.

Took my son out for a ride this morning. Stopped to fill up and when leaving the gas station felt it more difficult to engage 1st gear smoothly/nicely. I got up to 2nd gear and it was making some noise. Started to look for a place to pull over for inspection and the rear wheels locked up in the middle of the street. Put it in first and limped it into a school parking lot. Nothing looked out of place so got in to try to limp it home. Made it the 5 or 10 miles.

Further inspection reveals carnage in the trans fluid.

https://i.imgur.com/X3zVxIc.jpg

Finished pulling the transmission in 3.5 hours. Mostly spent time moving things out of the way to make it doable by one person.

https://i.imgur.com/p1HOPZK.jpg

Going to take it to Andrewtech to be addressed. On the bright side there may be an LSD in my future. If the trans is already going to be split, this would be a good 'opportunity'.

This was this morning.
https://i.imgur.com/SfEo4yT.jpg

[metros]

Dropped off with Andrew yesterday and he has had an opportunity for an initial tear down. The output shaft bearing is confirmed as the failure, which spread metal throughout the case. He's going to need to further tear things down to give everything a thorough evaluation of damage. Below are the pictures that he sent my way.

Good news is that he did confirm the 1-4 helical ppg gears. I bought this transmission used, so it's always good to confirm that what you bought was what was advertised even though it had documentation to go along with it. Seeing is believing.

Pics - I've been zooming in on these as much as possible to see if I can see any confirmed damage to the gears. Hard to really tell from a picture without being able to look from different angles. First pic, top right corner there may be some damage.

https://i.imgur.com/VhYxi2M.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/gNade63.jpg

[metros]

Worthy of mention, I've been impressed by the support that forum members have sent my way. I've even had some share some really good deals for potential replacements. A blown transmission isn't the most fun I've ever had. But there has been some genuine kindness shown. Thanks all!

[metros]

I've received back official word from Andrew regarding my transmission. It definitely had PPG helical gears in it. I bought it used, so you never really know without seeing inside. Unfortunately the key word is had.

The bearing at the back of the output shaft failed catastrophically. That sent metal throughout the transmission and ate gears 2-5. 1 is likely still usable but evidently they have to be paired 1/2 and 3/4. I'm not the most familiar with the inner workings of a transmission. It might as well be magic.

Still waiting to see prices of different options for ppg gears vs gears from a 2010 5-speed. Then considering adding a torsion style 'front' diff.

I've asked to keep the gears. They'll need to be worked into the build decor in some way.

[metros]

Picked up the louvers from powder coat this week. Came out really good and the price at NJ Sullivan was better than the place I was working with previously.

Also polished/buffed the front end. The fenders had been wet sanded when working out the cast lines. So they had a matte appearance prior to my work this weekend. Added a lot of shine back. Polished the hood as well. Really brightened the appearance up. I'll need to do the same for the rest of the car to get it where it should be.

https://i.imgur.com/n3C2qPL.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/8KKUEu7.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/00WyZKg.jpg

Had the wheels off already so I cleaned them up nicely while I was at it.

https://i.imgur.com/HQ7T7Vn.jpg

[Frank818]

Happy to see someone has got all the ZDB louvers just like me.

There's a lot of place to work in that engine bay, I envy you.
You can remove the gearbox without pulling out the engine, I envy you as well! loll

Tnx for the idea of removing the rear bumper without the wheel wells, never thought of that, or that it was possible, but in truth yes it should work! You just saved me a bit of time and storage place for next time.

Congrats on the plate, although it does not look very nice up front but hey the law is the law. :(
Looks like you too are having issues after driving the car, I know what it is!!!!!!!! And I should spend more time reading other's issues to see I'm not the only one, but I'm always spending all my time trying to fix mine. :(

In the end did you understand what happened so that that bearing failed?

I also keep my broken up parts and put them somewhere in the decor. You've seen my bent valve already, that'll go up on display soon.

[metros]

Yes, I still need to create a bracket for the front plate. Those plates are paper while awaiting my custom plates. Gorilla tape in a pinch.

I don't have an answer as to the why regarding the bearing failure. Per Andrew, that bearing failure is not common.

I think the ZDB louvers make a huge difference in the appearance of the car. Betting others will join in once they see some more cars with them.

[Frank818]

I think the ZDB louvers make a huge difference in the appearance of the car.

Totally agree!

[Brd.Prey]

A bung after the cat is usually a EPA only sensor to be able to say the CAT is still working which is required on newer cars. This O2 sensor usually has to be coded out because they throw codes as especially stage 2 tunes which include downpipe usually throw codes. The O2 sensor is usually as close to the turbo outlet as possible. The egt is located in the pipe from your headers.

[metros]

Got the 818 buttoned back up with newly rebuilt transmission from Andrew.

This was the bearing that failed. See below how the rollers are all lined up nicely, that's how it should look.

https://i.imgur.com/O98HVLT.jpg

This is the other side of that bearing which should look symmetrical. These are falling out, sideways, and several are missing. This is what spewed into my transmission.

https://i.imgur.com/mOlG1UC.jpg

Unfortunately all 5 gears had to be replaced and a few other odds n ends. The 1st gear PPG was salvageable, but with having to replace the 2nd gear - it didn't have a dance partner.

I have quite the fancy pencil holder for work that I like to talk about with people who don't generally care.

During this downtime I have polished the nose of the car. Sanded out a lot of fiberglass form marks in the gelcoat. Need to polish out the rear end to get the gloss back. Also installed the rear diffuser. Once I have the rear end polished out I can finish installing the rear grate and last of the louvers.

https://i.imgur.com/zmIHgGx.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Hx3gFvk.jpg

[Frank818]

You fitted the rear diffiuser about sticking out as mine, how far fwd does it go underneath? Up to the point of reaching the under engine belly pan?

[metros]

That's one of the few panels I have yet to install. Need to put in the panel that closes the rear hump opening to the engine. So I can't really answer that question. It does go up to mid transmission.

[Frank818]

I found out if you stick out the diffuser too much, like I wanted (that thing won't rub on the ground like the front splitter), you end up with a gap between the front of the diffuser and the rear of the belly pan. There truly is a maximum stick out on the diffuser if you want to keep things fully closed underneath.

But I think not too many people fitted the belly pan, in my case I found out it gets a lot more dusty in the engine bay without that pan.

[Hobby Racer]

I found out if you stick out the diffuser too much, like I wanted (that thing won't rub on the ground like the front splitter), you end up with a gap between the front of the diffuser and the rear of the belly pan. There truly is a maximum stick out on the diffuser if you want to keep things fully closed underneath.

The trick is to fab a small section to close the gap between the two.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80889&d=1518560458

Build thread with the underpan details. (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?23199-John-s-EZ36R-H6-818R-Build&p=313250&viewfull=1#post313250)

[STiPWRD]

Congrats on getting the transmission back! The gelcoat polish looks pretty good. I just got my plates today actually, we'll have to do a cruise sometime or maybe cars and coffee?

[metros]

Congrats! We definitely should. I was thinking about a cars n coffee sometime in the next month or so.

[taco20]

Both of you need to come and play at Dominion’s road course with me and let’s see what those things have in them. Once you hit the track you won’t need any coffee and there are plenty of cars to pass. Lol:p:D

[STiPWRD]

Both of you need to come and play at Dominion’s road course with me and let’s see what those things have in them. Once you hit the track you won’t need any coffee and there are plenty of cars to pass. Lol:p:D

I see wut you did there ;) I'd love to. Not sure when I'll see some actual track time but that is definitely the eventual goal. First I gotta put some mileage on this fresh engine and then get it tuned. Car progress is slow with 2 little kids but I keep at it. Is your car street legal or track only?

[taco20]

I see wut you did there ;) I'd love to. Not sure when I'll see some actual track time but that is definitely the eventual goal. First I gotta put some mileage on this fresh engine and then get it tuned. Car progress is slow with 2 little kids but I keep at it. Is your car street legal or track only?

What do you need miles on the engine for. I broke mine in on the dyno, test drove it around the block a few times and headed to the track. You think it will last you 100k or something? Lol.

I broke the trans at my last event and have already thrown another one together to head to the track. It will be lucky to get 10 miles on before I let it eat at the track. Since yours is drive able for the street the track will be no issue for you.
Dominion has an HPDE in Oct so that gives you plenty of time to get the car ready by then. If your lucky you might even get me for an instructor.

My car is an 818S but I have made it more for the track and kind of gave up on the street. Once you have driven it on the track the street is boring. I have a 1000cc motorcycle if I want to play on the street.

Anyway I’ll buy the first cup of coffee you just bring the car and let’s have some fun.:cool:

[metros]

Summit point is in our backyard. I did build this with intentions to track it, but it likely won't be in 2019. I really want to get some miles on it before I start driving it at speed.

Never been to the dominion course, I'll have to look it up.

[metros]

Got my car back from being tuned today. Put down 313 rwhp and 273tq. Even with the modest hp numbers its ridiculously quick. Had a **** eating grin on the way home.

https://i.imgur.com/vY1Xwf4.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/O1kzymW.jpg

[longislandwrx]

nice job... nice linear power... that's gotta be a ripper.

[metros]

I would be curious how much sooner a Blouch 16g would spool up over my current 18g. Or could likely get the same results with a 2.5 block. Think I'm pretty satisfied with the amount of power, just a touch faster spool would be ideal.

[Frank818]

That is nice!
Is there a reason (valid) it runs a little less rich at 5.5k?