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michael everson
10-08-2013, 07:39 PM
Forgive me if some of this is covered in the digital manual. I cannot find my link.

I have a 2002 donor.

1. Can I remove the air conditioning compressor?
2. Can I remove the power steering pump?
3. FFR supplied me a belt. I assume its for the alternator. Where does it get its tension from?
4. Can I completely eliminate the coolant lines for the heater instead of looping them? I could plug one at the thermostat housing and the other under the intake.
I noticed that they also go to the throttle body. Any issues?
5. Is the TGV delete worth doing? Anything to be gained by it?
6. If I remove the power steering pump and air compressor, how do I mount the alternator?
7. what other stuff can I eliminate while I am at it?



http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05800_zpsdbd17fdd.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05800_zpsdbd17fdd.jpg.html)


http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05802_zps94db12ae.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05802_zps94db12ae.jpg.html)


http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s140/michaeleverson/DSC05801_zps221cb91e.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/michaeleverson/media/DSC05801_zps221cb91e.jpg.html)
Thanks Mike

Mechie3
10-08-2013, 10:38 PM
1 yes, leave bracket
2 yes, leave bracket
3 mount alternator in stock config using ac and PS brackets. PS bracket side has a threaded rod to pull alternator up and down.
4 no. Loop them or you can have driver side head over heating issues. Delete from throttle body and either loop hard lines together or weld off the small nipples.
5 better flow more power.
6 see 1 , 2, and 3 above or make your own. Simple custom one is to use ac bracket and for the other side a rod with heim joints. Will post a pic tomorrow when not on my phone.
7 purge solenoid and valve on front of manifold. Brake booster line.

07FIREBLADE
10-08-2013, 10:39 PM
Ac and power steering can be removed. Take apart the brackets from the components to mount the alternator. You can later remove unused portions of the mount. Look at metalmaker or mechies thread for more details. I'm not currently in front of my motor or I would give you a pic of what I mean.

longislandwrx
10-09-2013, 06:51 AM
6. use the stock tensioner but you can cut off the power steering portion. then get the alternator bracket from an RS car with no AC. Easiest way to do it nicely imho.

look at my blog post, or search simplifying the ej for more stuff you can remove.

Mechie3
10-09-2013, 08:18 AM
This guy retained the AC bracket (trimmed down some) and used a custom turnbuckle on the other side (one rod end is RH thread, the other is LH thread).

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/LOW145/58%20Rag%20Bug/lastStretch193.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/LOW145/58%20Rag%20Bug/IMG_2860.jpg

fateo66
10-09-2013, 12:27 PM
4 no. Loop them or you can have driver side head over heating issues. Delete from throttle body and either loop hard lines together or weld off the small nipples.



EDIT: I'm not running my upper coolant tank so my situation does not apply to most.

Mechie3
10-09-2013, 01:30 PM
EDIT: I'm not running my upper coolant tank so my situation does not apply to most.

Well, now I'm just curious as to what it was you originally wrote? :lol:

michael everson
10-09-2013, 04:11 PM
So I shouldn't eliminate the heater lines completely? I cannot see how that would affect head temp, but I know little to nothing about these engines.
Mike

Mechie3
10-09-2013, 04:56 PM
I posted a diagram elsewhere. Not sure where. If shows the flow of coolant. Blocking those lines has led to failure in other cars because it causes a restriction of out flow making the driver side head overheat.

D Clary
10-09-2013, 07:14 PM
Just read up on a Subaru forum and they had the cooling system diagram, Mechie is correct. When the thermostat is closed the left cylinder head will not get coolant flow. Kind of a bummer I was wanting to clean some of that stuff up.

michael everson
10-09-2013, 07:21 PM
Ok but maybe I can just run it direct to its eventual home instead of looping it. That way it's still flowing.
Mike

fateo66
10-09-2013, 07:41 PM
Just read up on a Subaru forum and they had the cooling system diagram, Mechie is correct. When the thermostat is closed the left cylinder head will not get coolant flow. Kind of a bummer I was wanting to clean some of that stuff up.

This is not correct and I do not really see why you couldn't delete the hard lines if wanted. I did on my motor, I pulled out the two nipples on the left side of the pump, tapped them and put in a plug.

Here is a pic of the hardlines on an NA motor its clear that other than the throttle body lines (witch IMO are useless) the only reason for the hardlines is the heater core.

The only thing to keep in mind is the coolant lines needed for your turbo. In my case I ran my supply from the port on the back of my Z25 head (not all ports on the back of the right head are coolant supply so be careful and do your research or ask me to look at the heads I have) my coolant return drops into a fitting on the back side of the cross over pipe.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-G-eVN7q-1ok/UAHgQ7gVOTI/AAAAAAAAtHA/xFCL2Rv24Ng/s736/20120714_160418.jpg

Wayne Presley
10-09-2013, 07:53 PM
Loop the heater line, the thermostat is on the inlet side of the of the water pump and the heater and heat exchanger return lines squirt directly on the side of the thermostat. If you cap them the thermostat won't open. Ask me how I know...:cool:

Xusia
10-09-2013, 08:02 PM
Or - here's a thought - connect them to a heater!

Mechie3
10-10-2013, 09:56 AM
Here is the thread where a few people had engine failures/overheating due to blocking those lines off. You can delete the black hardline but the line coming off the aluminum crossover needs to feed back into the waterpump. The other alternative is to delete those lines and remove the thermostate so you always get flow (but impede car warm up).

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1913750

Found the picture again. If you cap of the heater core line the LH head gets no flow if the radiator is closed.

http://i45.tinypic.com/2sac8k2.jpg

fateo66
10-10-2013, 10:46 AM
I stand corrected, I was thinking that the oil cooler lines were going to be enough flow but after thinking about it they really don't do the same thing.

Mechie3
10-10-2013, 11:48 AM
I stand corrected, I was thinking that the oil cooler lines were going to be enough flow but after thinking about it they really don't do the same thing.

I was sitting down myself. :D

I just happened to have found that thread once while searching for something and thought it was interesting. I don't always come up with new things myself and it's nice when others do and they pay the "cost of research". I would've said the same thing "oh...no heater core? Let's cut these off and block it!".

longislandwrx
10-10-2013, 12:18 PM
Mechie3, we are all looking to you so sell a one piece hardline that connects from the crossover to the rubber hose.

Mechie3
10-10-2013, 02:02 PM
I just used the rubber U.


:o