Lets talk about aftermarket suspension parts

[michael everson]

I would like to use as little of the rusty old WRX supension parts as possible. I have STI uprights and spindles, STI brakes and aluminum front control arms. What else do I need for the front? What aftermarket stuff do I need to complete the back?
Thanks Mike

[508wrx]

You might be just about all set with the front. The rear you'll need the uprights, spindles, multilink, and trailing arms.

The uprights and spindles can probably be found at rockauto.com or if your want to go sti you can do that as well (it will make fitting those rear brembo's much easier). As for the multilink and trailing arms you can do oem, sti, or aftermarket. I have no experience with aftermarket items in that area so I can't recommend a good place to start.

A side note: If you use wrx style rear uprights you'll need an adapter kit to be able to use brembo's with those uprights.

[Mechie3]

STI uprights don't currently work with the front suspension adapters. You'll need to make your own or machine down the width of the mounting point on the spindles/knuckle.

For the rear, don't get STI lateral links. They're expensive as it's the only aluminum set for both of teh rear links. We don't have a rear swaybar, so you can actually use two sets of the 06 WRX lateral link. A few other years had the aluminum link as well, just don't know offhand. These don't have sway bar tabs, but this won't affect us. Both metalmaker and I went this route with dual aluminum links in the rear.

You can buy cheap trailing arms and lateral links, but they tend to rust up pretty quickly.

[Frank818]

I think Wayne has built some trailing arms that I think he planned on offering at some point... just saying, if anyone (or him) can confirm.

At the same time I'm subscribing to this thread as I want to follow this up (and increase my budget I guess). :)

[michael everson]

I already have the uprights and brakes for all four corners. So the front is all set with the exception of the fitment problem? Should be an easy fix. I will need 4 of the aluminum 06 lateral links for the rear? What about the lower cotrol arm in the rear?
Thanks Mike

[Mechie3]

Do you mean the trailing arm? You can get some OEM ones with pillowball bearings installed, or some aftermarket. There aren't that many. Cusco makes some. Others are generally knockoffs of that general design.

Lateral links: Yes, you'll need 4 total. Cars only came with 2 at most. Some are $60/set on ebay. I got lucky and found a set for $20 (and had a set on my 06). I think 05's and 07's had them too, but not 100% sure.

[michael everson]

is this what i want 4 of? are they all the same length?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Impreza-WRX-STI-Rear-Lateral-Arm-Control-Aluminum-GD7-Oem-2004-2007-/330892408656?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2006%7CMake%3ASubaru%7CModel%3AImpreza %7CSubmodel%3AWRX%7CEngine+-+Liter_Display%3A2.5L&hash=item4d0ab97750&vxp=mtr#ht_606wt_651

[Mechie3]

Yes, that is the aluminum OEM link and they are the same length.

Here's a pair for $60 ($10 cheaper per link than the auction you posted)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2006-SUBARU-IMPREZA-WRX-TURBO-OEM-REAR-CONTROL-ARMS-LATERAL-LINKS-GD7-2179-/290935190305?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43bd16b321&vxp=mtr#ht_2801wt_826

Full aftermarket set for $70 (used). Not sure of brand or quality. Looks like they were taken off a car at a junkyard.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Impreza-WRX-Sti-02-07-Rear-Lateral-Link-Control-Arms-Blue-/221265475367?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3384733727&vxp=mtr#ht_1240wt_959

[RM1SepEx]

Do you mean the trailing arm? You can get some OEM ones with pillowball bearings installed, or some aftermarket. There aren't that many. Cusco makes some. Others are generally knockoffs of that general design.

Lateral links: Yes, you'll need 4 total. Cars only came with 2 at most. Some are $60/set on ebay. I got lucky and found a set for $20 (and had a set on my 06). I think 05's and 07's had them too, but not 100% sure.

my 05 had aluminum fronts too (and bent steel rears!) I went the aftermarket route and sold my aluminum ones... that $70 set looks like they are in good condition at a fair price...

[michael everson]

What $70.00 set. Oh the ones I just bought. Now to find 2 more.
Mike

[Mechie3]

I think he meant the full set of aftermarket arms for $70.

[C.Plavan]

Does anyone know if the camber adjustment on the rear of the 818 will be enough (-2.5 to -3.5) using the stock Lateral Links? This is for my 818R. If not, I'm considering the Whiteline adjustable links, or the super ridiculous priced Cusco items.

[Wayne Presley]

You will be able to get plenty of camber, I have .8° neg camber and have plenty of adjustment left.

[Frank818]

Enough adjustments to do like this black Merc?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_r6ltUgtFWI


looollllll :D

[C.Plavan]

Thanks Wayne. FYI- I'm still going to get that shifter and wilwood package from you. I got some 2003 rear knuckles and 2007 front so it works.

[longislandwrx]

I already have the uprights and brakes for all four corners. So the front is all set with the exception of the fitment problem? Should be an easy fix. I will need 4 of the aluminum 06 lateral links for the rear? What about the lower cotrol arm in the rear?
Thanks Mike

Yes you'll need to mill them thinner, and then weld and redrill the top mouting hole. But it sounds like you have all the pieces you need for the front.

05s also have a pair of aluminum links.

The rest of the parts are provided by FFR except for the trailing arms. I went with MSI ones. Pricey but they are beautiful and several lbs lighter than the stock pieces and should last a long time.

[longislandwrx]

210172101821019

gorgeous.

[C.Plavan]

What bushings are you going to use?


Anyone have the part number handy for the 06 Aluminum Lateral Links?

[longislandwrx]

I have Turn In Concepts bushings for them, both front and rear, they offer 95 and 80 hardness, as well as bearings.

I don't have PN for the aluminum link as most online OEM Subaru Shops don't list them for fear of god forbid, price shopping. Your local dealer will probably tell you, mine's still closed.

[C.Plavan]

I have Turn In Concepts bushings for them, both front and rear, they offer 95 and 80 hardness, as well as bearings.

I don't have PN for the aluminum link as most online OEM Subaru Shops don't list them for fear of god forbid, price shopping. Your local dealer will probably tell you, mine's still closed.

Is that the 1" correction arm? Do we even need the 1" or 2" correction with the 818 Suspension design?

[longislandwrx]

Yes, I ordered the one inch (and plan or running the 818 at race height which is one inch lower than street so hopefully the geometry will be close enough)

This is what I have:

http://turninconcepts.com/product_info.php?products_id=1174


Technically you don't need any correction, but the only ones MSI makes for factory ride height are their gravel ones. I spoke to Mark at MSI and he said he could make me a set of gravel ones without the extra bracing, but the tubing will still be thicker and slightly heavier. I'll know if the 1" correction will work soon enough.

I have the measurements and can email you if you send me a pm me your address.

[Wayne Presley]

The 818 has mounting holes higher to lower the car 1" and leave the geometry unaffected.

[C.Plavan]

So if we use the higher holes, we should use stock geometry trailing arms, not ones that are modified. Correct?

[RM1SepEx]

yes... all the suspension holes are duplicated (longer front arms only) for lower ride height

[tmoretta]

yes... all the suspension holes are duplicated (longer front arms only) for lower ride height

Anybody know if the 818 rear suspension will have provision for toe adjustment? My donor lower rear links are both bent. I want to replace them and need to know if I should source some like the Truhart lateral arms with adjustment provision.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Anybody know if the 818 rear suspension will have provision for toe adjustment? My donor lower rear links are both bent. I want to replace them and need to know if I should source some like the Truhart lateral arms with adjustment provision.
The rear most lateral bar has a CAM bolt on the chassis end to adjust rear toe.
Bob

[C.Plavan]

I went ahead and bought the OEM SPT lateral links and SPT trailing arms. These have the spherical bearings (pillowball) installed on them. Not sure I will like the pinkish/red color, but that is easily fixed.

There are tons of eBay parts that are much less, with shady performance, so I stuck with Subaru Performance Tuning parts. When I'm racing, I don't want a cheap EBay part to fail.....

If you do the same, make sure to shop around with the Oem part numbers. I noticed a difference in prices.
SPT Trailing arm: st2027055000
SPT Lateral links: st202504s000. (Wrx)

Double check on your own- for your year WRX.

[longislandwrx]

Good choice, the Cherry Blossom Pink looks good in real life. With the removable endlink mounts not installed you'll have a clean look. Plus you can sell them for a few bucks.

As far as I know they are steel.

You are smart to avoid the ebay stuff. bearings pull out, welds crack, steel turns to mush, etc etc.

I can get the trailing arms for $310 shipped. LMK if you paid much more.

[C.Plavan]

I paid $349. That's a great a price.

[GUNS]

Any thoughts on a stiffer rear (now front) sway bar? I have both the OEM and a Whiteline 24mm sway bar. I'm thinking the OEM will be plenty and the stiffer Whiteline may create too much understeer. Any thoughts? I guess once I have it running I could swap them out and see which works better.

[C.Plavan]

Guns-

At this stage it's probably too early to tell. Anyone know the size of bar on the 818R? I'm guessing stock.

Can someone do me a favor? Could they measure the width of their sway bar, and the length of the arms? I don't have a stock one available. I'm thinking I can grab one from my sponsors and make it work, while not having all the crazy loops in it. It would be straight and clean. It may open up another market for them.

[Xusia]

My Knowledgeable Subie FRiends,

Can I get your thoughts on these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/6PC-REAR-LATERAL-LINK-TRAILING-ARM-SUSPENSION-02-07-IMPREZA-WRX-STi-GD-GG-BLUE-/360638860244?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2003%7CSubmodel%3AWRX&hash=item53f7c04bd4&vxp=mtr

I've seen a couple different sellers/shops selling what look to be the same exact thing, and I need all these parts, so it seems like a decent deal. I like the look, and the adjustability, but I don't know if they are decent parts from a quality standpoint. I certainly don't want to use substandard parts. The OEM parts seem very expensive for what they are and look both a bit bland to me and they also not as strong. For those reasons I'm thinking aftermarket.

Thanks for your help! :)

[C.Plavan]

My Knowledgeable Subie FRiends,

Can I get your thoughts on these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/6PC-REAR-LATERAL-LINK-TRAILING-ARM-SUSPENSION-02-07-IMPREZA-WRX-STi-GD-GG-BLUE-/360638860244?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2003%7CSubmodel%3AWRX&hash=item53f7c04bd4&vxp=mtr

I've seen a couple different sellers/shops selling what look to be the same exact thing, and I need all these parts, so it seems like a decent deal. I like the look, and the adjustability, but I don't know if they are decent parts from a quality standpoint. I certainly don't want to use substandard parts. The OEM parts seem very expensive for what they are and look both a bit bland to me and they also not as strong. For those reasons I'm thinking aftermarket.

Thanks for your help! :)

I saw those, and other copies. Price seems great, but I researched the Subi forums... Everyone said to stay away/they are junk.

That's why I stuck with OEM.

[longislandwrx]

Guns I think that bar will be way too thick, though it will be cool to try it out and see.

The 2002 WRX had the largest swaybar, 20mm, after that they all went to 17mm

my donor is an 05, so if I needed a little more I would go for one of those, they are less than $100 new and should give you a little more stiffness.


Chad, Bar looks to be about 42.75" legs are about 6", and about 5.5 to the bolt center

[Xusia]

I saw those, and other copies. Price seems great, but I researched the Subi forums... Everyone said to stay away/they are junk.

That's why I stuck with OEM.

I was worried those might have been the parts you saw. Any links to the posts you read about them?

Any others have any experience at all with these?

[JeromeS13]

My Knowledgeable Subie FRiends,

Can I get your thoughts on these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/6PC-REAR-LATERAL-LINK-TRAILING-ARM-SUSPENSION-02-07-IMPREZA-WRX-STi-GD-GG-BLUE-/360638860244?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2003%7CSubmodel%3AWRX&hash=item53f7c04bd4&vxp=mtr

I've seen a couple different sellers/shops selling what look to be the same exact thing, and I need all these parts, so it seems like a decent deal. I like the look, and the adjustability, but I don't know if they are decent parts from a quality standpoint. I certainly don't want to use substandard parts. The OEM parts seem very expensive for what they are and look both a bit bland to me and they also not as strong. For those reasons I'm thinking aftermarket.

Thanks for your help! :)

Wayne will be selling a lot of parts soon (may already). I would keep an eye on his website. I'm probably going to end up buying some of my aftermarket arms and AWIC kit from him.

[rori]

Can someone do me a favor? Could they measure the width of their sway bar, and the length of the arms? I don't have a stock one available. I'm thinking I can grab one from my sponsors and make it work, while not having all the crazy loops in it. It would be straight and clean. It may open up another market for them.

If you're interested in selling those endlink mounts from your kit, I would be interested in them for my wagon. PM me if your willing to sell them. Thanks!

This is from a stock 02 sedan 20mm rear bar:

Between the eyelets is 42 1/4"

http://i.imgur.com/UVy0OJ2.jpg

From the middle of the bar to the middle of the eyelet is 7 3/4"

http://i.imgur.com/7LYV9kc.jpg

[Xusia]

Wayne will be selling a lot of parts soon (may already). I would keep an eye on his website. I'm probably going to end up buying some of my aftermarket arms and AWIC kit from him.

I knew he was selling the trailing arms, but he told me was wasn't going to be selling lateral links because FFR had plans to do so. I just fear that if those links are OEM, they are going to more expensive than they really need to be.

[C.Plavan]

Thanks for the measurement guys. I think I can make something work, I talked to my friend. I'll know more once my 818R gets here in Oct.

Specs- 22mm Hollow Bars (possibly 19mm too) which are extremely light, tons of adjustment, Bladed or normal arms. I may even be able to adapt cockpit adjustability (818R). Stay Tuned.

[Wayne Presley]

The smaller sway bars will probably be the way to go, the street car was a little loose with the splitter and no diffuser or spoiler. Add the spoiler and diffuser and the car had some understeer with the same front bar.

[RM1SepEx]

I just received an "update" package for my early kit (picked it up Aug 1, serial #17) and they sent me a pair of SPC adjustable arms for the rear transverse links, rubber bushings

Package said it was because the stock adj couldn't adj the toe enough. Don't know if it is just an early kit issue that they fixed or if it is a permenant change to the kits

21122

[C.Plavan]

I just received an "update" package for my early kit (picked it up Aug 1, serial #17) and they sent me a pair of SPC adjustable arms for the rear transverse links, rubber bushings

Package said it was because the stock adj couldn't adj the toe enough. Don't know if it is just an early kit issue that they fixed or if it is a permenant change to the kits

21122

Interesting. I hope they fix the chassis component since I have the SPT Pillow Ball/Spherical Bearing Lateral links coming now.

[Xusia]

Anyone who winds up with extra lateral links, let me know. Mine are TOTALLY shot and I need some.

[Wayne Presley]

Interesting. I hope they fix the chassis component since I have the SPT Pillow Ball/Spherical Bearing Lateral links coming now.

It's an early kit issue that is resolved on the current cars. It just shows FFR's commitment to make sure you get the best kit, even after the sale.

[Xusia]

That's good to hear, and actually what I thought. Although that should be the norm, it's definitely not and just goes to show I'm buying the right product from the right company. :)

[longislandwrx]

The smaller sway bars will probably be the way to go, the street car was a little loose with the splitter and no diffuser or spoiler. Add the spoiler and diffuser and the car had some understeer with the same front bar.

That was with a 17mm bar?

[tmoretta]

Good choice, the Cherry Blossom Pink looks good in real life. With the removable endlink mounts not installed you'll have a clean look. Plus you can sell them for a few bucks.

As far as I know they are steel.

You are smart to avoid the ebay stuff. bearings pull out, welds crack, steel turns to mush, etc etc.

I can get the trailing arms for $310 shipped. LMK if you paid much more.



If that is the set of 4 SPT lateral links for $310, please let me know how to order. Thanks

[C.Plavan]

If that is the set of 4 SPT lateral links for $310, please let me know how to order. Thanks

That's Trailing arms

[Mechie3]

I just received an "update" package for my early kit (picked it up Aug 1, serial #17) and they sent me a pair of SPC adjustable arms for the rear transverse links, rubber bushings

Package said it was because the stock adj couldn't adj the toe enough. Don't know if it is just an early kit issue that they fixed or if it is a permenant change to the kits

21122

Does this mean i cant use my aluminum links front and rear? :( was it an issue of not being able to zero out toe to limit tire wear?

[longislandwrx]

Does this mean i cant use my aluminum links front and rear? :( was it an issue of not being able to zero out toe to limit tire wear?

No they fixed the issue, moved the camber bolt. At least that's what FFR said if he understood my question.

Trailing arms are about $580 shipped. PM sent.

[longislandwrx]

ALSO. turn in concepts having a crazy sale today. If you are looking for bushings, today is the day to get them.

[C.Plavan]

No they fixed the issue, moved the camber bolt. At least that's what FFR said if he understood my question.

Trailing arms are about $580 shipped. PM sent.

You mean Lateral links, not trailing arms right?

I did just buy a few bushings for the rear knuckles from them.

[Mechie3]

No they fixed the issue, moved the camber bolt. At least that's what FFR said if he understood my question.

Trailing arms are about $580 shipped. PM sent.

My chassis is two numbers before his. If he has issues I probably do too.

[Wayne Presley]

My chassis is two numbers before his. If he has issues I probably do too.
I think the rear toe link affects chassis 7-33 but you would have to check with FFR for confirmation.

[longislandwrx]

You mean Lateral links, not trailing arms right?

yes sorry, I confused everyone including myself.

[RM1SepEx]

Does this mean i cant use my aluminum links front and rear? :( was it an issue of not being able to zero out toe to limit tire wear?

yes... I wish I hadn't sold my front aluminum links now, I have two sets of rear adjustable lateral links

Did you get your update box yet? They sent me shipping info when it shipped by FedX it arrived the next day since I'm in Maine. I was told it was to get the toe lined up, the eccentrics couldn't do it

[Mechie3]

I think I got it. Supposed to show up yesterday. Um in Nebraska. Wife didn't mention it specifically when I called her.

[pt00323i]

sorry I have to ask.

my 02 WRX sedan all 4 rear transvers arms are bent, so I bought a set of OEM AL front transverse arm from 05 WRX wagon, and a complete set of steel transvers arms.

Q1:
I notice the Al arm hole to hole dim is shorter than the steel ones. based on this tread this is not an issue due to updates from FFR

Q2:
I want to use the front transverse arm for the rear (without swaybar tabs) but I notice the holes are different, rear transverse arm both holes are 14mm, front trans are not, how are you guys using them?

just trying to obtain the right parts.

thanks

[Bob_n_Cincy]

sorry I have to ask.

my 02 WRX sedan all 4 rear transvers arms are bent, so I bought a set of OEM AL front transverse arm from 05 WRX wagon, and a complete set of steel transvers arms.

Q1:
I notice the Al arm hole to hole dim is shorter than the steel ones. based on this tread this is not an issue due to updates from FFR

Q2:
I want to use the front transverse arm for the rear (without swaybar tabs) but I notice the holes are different, rear transverse arm both holes are 14mm, front trans are not, how are you guys using them?

just trying to obtain the right parts.

thanks

I just went through this a couple of weeks ago as I used a wagon donor.
I believe the wagon arms are 10mm shorter each because the track width on the wagon is 20mm smaller than the sedan.
The inner hole on the rear bar is bigger because it uses a cam bolt to adjust toe angle.
You cannot mix OEM sedan and wagon arms because there is not enough toe adjustment.
The half shafts will work with either length.
The wagon arms will allow you a 10 mm wider tire.
Let me know if I got all your questions.
Bob

PS: I think they get bent by the coparts fork lifts.

[Mechie3]

I used aftermarket bushings so I pressed in the rear bushing set into the second pair of aluminum arms. I can't use the second set of aluminum arms because I have a low number chassis with not enough adjustment.

[Xusia]

I used aftermarket bushings so I pressed in the rear bushing set into the second pair of aluminum arms. I can't use the second set of aluminum arms because I have a low number chassis with not enough adjustment.

Would you consider selling them? :D

[Mechie3]

Yep. Just need to figure out an asking price and ask where the 818 specific FS forum is.

[Xusia]

Let me try that again...

Would you consider selling them to ME?

[Mechie3]

Lol. I don't care who buys them.

[longislandwrx]

I paid $60 for 2 aluminum links

[pt00323i]

I just went through this a couple of weeks ago as I used a wagon donor.
I believe the wagon arms are 10mm shorter each because the track width on the wagon is 20mm smaller than the sedan.
The inner hole on the rear bar is bigger because it uses a cam bolt to adjust toe angle.
You cannot mix OEM sedan and wagon arms because there is not enough toe adjustment.
The half shafts will work with either length.
The wagon arms will allow you a 10 mm wider tire.
Let me know if I got all your questions.
Bob

PS: I think they get bent by the coparts fork lifts.

got it, so if I want to keep the wagon Al front TArm I need to find another set, or sell this one and find a sedan ones. and to use front for the rear I need to just change the bushings.

my donor was hit on rear driver side and passenger side also got hit, but it doesn't look that bad, it was bent less on the pass side, yea it might be coparts.

thanks

[Mechie3]

I thought only sedans came with aluminum arms. Could be wrong.

[pt00323i]

I thought only sedans came with aluminum arms. Could be wrong.

I think AL front control arms are sedan only. the seller told me they are from a wrx wagon, good thing I can return them thru ebay

[DMC7492]

Hi Guys I am looking for Two Aluminum Lateral links. Are any left laying around? Thanks Don

[Scargo]

Does this make sense to anyone? It is from a Japanese TT car. Looks strong and stiff. Should I consider building it for my R?
http://image.modified.com/f/features/modp-1211-2002-subaru-impreza-wrx/44195706/modp-1211-07%2B2002-subaru-impreza-wrx%2Bsuspension.jpg

[Slatt]

That's interesting. What do we call that? It's not plain old lateral links anymore.

We can't see the 3 attachment points to the chassis well enough to be sure, but they could be solid bearings rather than the usual squishy stuff. This design allows the wheel to move up and down freely without binding even if all bearings are the solid / spherical type. It's hurting my head a bit to look at it but I think I see very precisely controlled toe change under compression.

YOU should do this, I should not. :)

[Scargo]

The interesting part is how the lateral arms are now triangulated and creating a rigid assembly, then you have the "mini-link" at the end to give flexibility and toe adjustment. The adjustable Heim joints could be at either end, but I think it needs the flexing linkage at the end to allow some give to the semi-LCA/semi-lateral link assembly as the wheel swings through it's arc.
Again the question is what good does it do?

I'd bet, since it's a TT car that everything is a solid bushing or Heim joint.

[Rasmus]

Scargo, I've been staring and staring at that link setup and the many small changes in suspension and geometry. I determined only one thing: I need to see more photos. That mini-link is throwing me for a loop.

[Xusia]

I supposed if you wanted a cheap man's version of this you just weld on some triangulating members to the existing lateral links...

[longislandwrx]

That's some serious bracing... that turnbuckle gives them the toe adjustment as well as the ability to swing out to make removing the knuckles much easier

the rear has the sway bar mount so just the rod end into the steel. very cool.

[tmoretta]

I have an '02 rear bar. I would gladly trade it for an OEM 17 mm bar if anyone is interested.

[Ravendas]

Is anyone running ALK on their front LCAs? Since the suspension is set up differently from the stock WRX, I'm wondering how that affects the 818 geometry. I still have my old bushings, but I'd have to do some serious reconditioning on them since they're leaking (hence the replacement with ALK).

[Scargo]

Here's my take. I don't have my kit yet, but I think you need to think of it as "Daddy's seen to it". I would not be tweaking the suspension unless you know exactly where it's at as a completed, driveable unit. I don't think the suspension is suspect. It has proven otherwise. It's NOT a WRX.

Edit: What I'm trying to say is the car handles beautifully by all accounts and FFR has designed in all the geometry adjustments you need unless you start changing up things.
I find it interesting that the stock WRX KPI/SAI ( kingpin inclination) is about 15 degrees (and camber at less than 1 degree). This SAI seems huge to me and I see that the steering arm Ackerman is near 0. While Ackerman is fixed, FFR may have reduced the SAI dramatically.

[Scargo]

Scargo, I've been staring and staring at that link setup and the many small changes in suspension and geometry. I determined only one thing: I need to see more photos. That mini-link is throwing me for a loop.
I can't find anything more on it on the internet...
I'd say there are solid bushings on the inside. Again, what worries me is the wheel's arc (though a small change in arc length?) as it pivots from the trailing arm. Not sure if it would work at all if the two lateral arm (rods) were welded together completely, with no give.

[Slatt]

Are you sure this is a Subaru? My vague memory suggests it is not. Note the trailing arm attaches differently. Either way it looks like a strut suspension so whatever those guys were trying to accomplish is just irrelevant to the 818. Except the impressively solid look of it all.

[Scargo]

Are you sure this is a Subaru? My vague memory suggests it is not. Note the trailing arm attaches differently. Either way it looks like a strut suspension so whatever those guys were trying to accomplish is just irrelevant to the 818. Except the impressively solid look of it all.Do Luck’s Time Attack GDA Impreza.http://www.modified.com/features/modp-1211-2002-subaru-impreza-wrx/

[samuel]

I have been reading a lot of comments about replacing bushings on different suspension bits. I check out the ones I have and they don't look damaged or worn. Is there any thing else to look for or am I concerned about nothing?

Thanks, Sam

[Ravendas]

I have been reading a lot of comments about replacing bushings on different suspension bits. I check out the ones I have and they don't look damaged or worn. Is there any thing else to look for or am I concerned about nothing?

Thanks, Sam

Well, it depends on your donor. If you have a 2007, you're probably ok. Mine is a 2003. Since it has been my daily driver for quite a while, I've already replace a some of bushings with poly. My left LCA bushing was actually broken and leaking about a year ago, so I've replaced those as well. I say just do a visual inspection, and if you're fine with the condition, just run with it. I'll probably be replacing all of the bushings because I'm already there, so why not? I'm in no rush and I'd rather do it right the first time. :D

[Ravendas]

Here's my take. I don't have my kit yet, but I think you need to think of it as "Daddy's seen to it". I would not be tweaking the suspension unless you know exactly where it's at as a completed, driveable unit. I don't think the suspension is suspect. It has proven otherwise. It's NOT a WRX.

Edit: What I'm trying to say is the car handles beautifully by all accounts and FFR has designed in all the geometry adjustments you need unless you start changing up things.
I find it interesting that the stock WRX KPI/SAI ( kingpin inclination) is about 15 degrees (and camber at less than 1 degree). This SAI seems huge to me and I see that the steering arm Ackerman is near 0. While Ackerman is fixed, FFR may have reduced the SAI dramatically.

I had to go lookup half the terms in your reply. :( SAI, KPI, Ackerman.... lots of info I didn't know.
Here's a picture that shows the difference between stock and ALK:
26889

Basically, it adds castor to the front wheels. My stock unit is blown, and leaking nasty grease, so I'd like to know the ramifications of using the ALK that I currently have on my donor on the 818. I know there's not many people finished yet, so I may be entering uncharted territory with this! But, one can't get an answer without asking a question! :D
Given the issues with tires rubbing already, I'm guessing this won't be doable, and I'll need to recondition my stock units (glad I saved them!). But it would be nice if someone had already attempted this and knew for sure...

[Jaime]

It doesn't just add castor, it changes the pivot plane of the lower control arm. On a stock WRX, it reduces dive. It will probably do something different on an 818. Three ways to tell:

1. Measure the suspension bits and plug numbers into software.
2. Try it.
3. Ask someone that has done one of the above.

I would stay away from parts that fix suspension problems of a WRX since the 818 only uses about half of the stock suspension parts and none of the stock mount points.

[Ravendas]

You should let Whiteline know, as they seem to think it adds positive castor...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jn-aWUFKY98


I would stay away from parts that fix suspension problems of a WRX since the 818 only uses about half of the stock suspension parts and none of the stock mount points.
Yeah, I'm thinking that as well.

[Scargo]

I had to go lookup half the terms in your reply. :( SAI, KPI, Ackerman.... lots of info I didn't know.
Here's a picture that shows the difference between stock and ALK:
26889

Basically, it adds castor to the front wheels. My stock unit is blown, and leaking nasty grease, so I'd like to know the ramifications of using the ALK that I currently have on my donor on the 818. I know there's not many people finished yet, so I may be entering uncharted territory with this! But, one can't get an answer without asking a question! :D
Given the issues with tires rubbing already, I'm guessing this won't be doable, and I'll need to recondition my stock units (glad I saved them!). But it would be nice if someone had already attempted this and knew for sure...
Perhaps when my crystal ball works really well I would know who's ALK you are referring to and how much it changes caster. I would not go there. There is a NTE caster limit, where you cannot get the steering straight again...JK
Didn't Troy Ackerman play for the Cowboys?

[Wayne Presley]

I still wonder why everyone is wanting to modify the 818 when you haven't driven the car, let alone at the limit which is the only time you would feel the difference in these changes. I have driven both the S and R at the limit and they handled extremely good. It would go any where on the track I wanted, I could rotate the car on trailing throttle and the tail would come right back in when going to neutral throttle.

[Xusia]

I would stay away from parts that fix suspension problems of a WRX since the 818 only uses about half of the stock suspension parts and none of the stock mount points.

The number of re-used parts is irrelevant. The geometry is completely different, and therefore so are the dynamics of the suspension. The point remains, however: Those parts are designed to fix problems on a completely different car. Best not to use them unless you know for sure they are needed and what impact they will have.


I still wonder why everyone is wanting to modify the 818 when you haven't driven the car, let alone at the limit which is the only time you would feel the difference in these changes. I have driven both the S and R at the limit and they handled extremely good. It would go any where on the track I wanted, I could rotate the car on trailing throttle and the tail would come right back in when going to neutral throttle.

What Wayne said! Drive first. Evaluate. THEN fix problems (if there are any).

[Santiago]

I'm not sure this is entirely to the point of what some folks are thinking - I mean, I don't think some folks are trying to "fix" an imaginary problem. In general, I totally agree with the rule of thumb "drive first, evaluate, fix (if necessary)" so I lean in that direction.

However, "fixing" may not be on everyone's mind; they may be operating on the idea "it's awesome already, now how can we make it even better?" There are some basic principles that allow you to pursue this line of thinking: e.g. lighter is better (given equal/adequate strength), wider track is better (if you can fit it), lower cg is better (if you can manage it), and so forth. There are diminishing returns with any such approach, so the first rule of thumb is still important to weigh heavily, but it's not the only approach. I can see why some people would want to improve on what they have/will have in their hands (or least start thinking about how to improve it). Personally, I'd count myself in this category. My attraction to the 818 is not that it's great out of the box, but that it's a great platform on which to build. And by that I mean that it looks like it has core elements in place (rigidity of chassis, low overall weight, low cg, etc.) that will deliver large returns on a broad range of enhancements.

Note, I would not put something like those Whiteline bushings in this category, since they're not based off of broadly applicable fundamental principles, they're based off of specific tuning techniques to achieve goals set for a specific platform.

Best,
-j

[Scargo]

What Santiago said... Wayne, I wont argue that the car doesn't handle beautifully. It's obvious it's competitive.

However, for the same reason I could not leave my STi alone, I am motivated to have it be better for racing. Not a compromise car, not for driving to the track, but a trailered car, purely for racing.
I echo Santiago with, it's a good platform to build on. I immediately saw the potential and was excited by the fact that it was based on a Subaru drivetrain that I'm familiar with.
One area where I diverge is that I have fab and welding capabilities. I'm getting an unpainted frame. I don't feel constrained. I don't want to "try it and see if I like it" and then start modifying it. I want to get as close as I can the first time to how I envision my ultimate race car will be.
After working within the confines of the STi "box", I feel I have an opportunity to be more creative and not feel like I'm trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. I sure hope Silver (my STI) doesn't hear this.

[Wayne Presley]

What Santiago said... Wayne, I wont argue that the car doesn't handle beautifully. It's obvious it's competitive.

However, for the same reason I could not leave my STi alone, I am motivated to have it be better for racing. Not a compromise car, not for driving to the track, but a trailered car, purely for racing.
I echo Santiago with, it's a good platform to build on. I immediately saw the potential and was excited by the fact that it was based on a Subaru drivetrain that I'm familiar with.
One area where I diverge is that I have fab and welding capabilities. I'm getting an unpainted frame. I don't feel constrained. I don't want to "try it and see if I like it" and then start modifying it. I want to get as close as I can the first time to how I envision my ultimate race car will be.
After working within the confines of the STi "box", I feel I have an opportunity to be more creative and not feel like I'm trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. I sure hope Silver (my STI) doesn't hear this.


Given that, I'd replace the bushings with urethane but retain the stock pick up positions on the front. Then do a full rod end like I'm doing on the 818R below.

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc175/vcpinjectionpb/20140314_084834_zps9981a8d8.jpg (http://s213.photobucket.com/user/vcpinjectionpb/media/20140314_084834_zps9981a8d8.jpg.html)

[Xusia]

I'm not sure this is entirely to the point of what some folks are thinking - I mean, I don't think some folks are trying to "fix" an imaginary problem. In general, I totally agree with the rule of thumb "drive first, evaluate, fix (if necessary)" so I lean in that direction.

However, "fixing" may not be on everyone's mind; they may be operating on the idea "it's awesome already, now how can we make it even better?" There are some basic principles that allow you to pursue this line of thinking: e.g. lighter is better (given equal/adequate strength), wider track is better (if you can fit it), lower cg is better (if you can manage it), and so forth. There are diminishing returns with any such approach, so the first rule of thumb is still important to weigh heavily, but it's not the only approach. I can see why some people would want to improve on what they have/will have in their hands (or least start thinking about how to improve it). Personally, I'd count myself in this category. My attraction to the 818 is not that it's great out of the box, but that it's a great platform on which to build. And by that I mean that it looks like it has core elements in place (rigidity of chassis, low overall weight, low cg, etc.) that will deliver large returns on a broad range of enhancements.

Note, I would not put something like those Whiteline bushings in this category, since they're not based off of broadly applicable fundamental principles, they're based off of specific tuning techniques to achieve goals set for a specific platform.

Best,
-j

When made my comments, it was in response to the use of product designed to address a suspension issue on a WRX, not about improvements based on general principles. Sorry - I could have been more clear on that.

I agree with what you've said, and I've been modifying my own car where I see fit. :)

[Santiago]

Oh no Xusia, I was actually thinking of the first half of your comment when I referred to the bushings being a specific tuning technique we should avoid (initially at least). I think you nailed it the first time and explained rather well why we should be hesitant to use such products. I was just trying to clarify the difference between fix and enhance.

Put differently, I could have just said I agree with you that right now for all we know those bushings are ways to fix a problem, not enhance our platform.

Best,
-j