Metalmaker's build thread begins

[longislandwrx]

PM sent.

[Frank818]

Great wheels!
Looks like I missed some posts, I didn't see what brand they are. I'll re-read everything!

[metalmaker12]

never mentioned, bremer Kraft BR10, Gram light 57 extreme look a likes

[drdracing]

Which mounts, if any, did you use on your seats? The car really looks and sounds great.

[metalmaker12]

FFR first run drivers mounts, there discountinued

[metalmaker12]

trying to get gopro to load on you tube, but no luck yet.....

[Frank818]

Is that the GoPro with Ultra HD? :)

[metalmaker12]

Hero 3 yea I guess

[Frank818]

The Hero3+ Black Edition is the only one with up to 4k (UltraHD). But anyway, 1080p is already awesome.

[metalmaker12]

I think I shot this in 720 anyway< i am a gopro newbie, sound is funky, was not that much tire noise


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cjZBw5EOlfI

[Mechie3]

Wife:is that legal?
Me:no
Wife:whats he doing?
Me: test drive :D

[Frank818]

Interesting! We can see the rad fans swirling when you drive faster. :)

So, we can't hear you talking at the end, tell us a bit about your driving experience. Fast, slow, average, precise, razor sharp, awesome steering feeling, bad ***, yo man, other? :)

[metalmaker12]

That was my friends wife lol, she thinks I am nuts along with my wife off-coarse. It has amazing response on throttle, steering, and braking. My tires are summer tires and it was like just about 50 degrees so I was driving kinda easy. I did hit about ? ( illegal number) in that burst on the straight. When in boost it is a handful of power, and you gotta respect the beast. I need much more room to fully test, so I will be going to a local airstrip auto cross area in my next full length video when the weather breaks again. It has the power to weight to manage a low 3 sec to 60 and handle to shake anything I have driven, but it is a force to be reckoned with, in my next video I will show you what not to do

[longislandwrx]

I imagine you had a stupid grin at 1:35, because I did. What's you plan forgetting that shift knob out of the stratosphere.

[metalmaker12]

Two options if I want to:

Get a short shifter for a matrix/coralla

Cut and die new threads lower

But the shifter up high is not uncomfortable, and is a good shift position for me, but it is almost touching the moon

[Kalstar]

Two options if I want to:

Get a short shifter for a matrix/coralla

Cut and die new threads lower

But the shifter up high is not uncomfortable, and is a good shift position for me, but it is almost touching the moon

Impressive.

If you want to improve your 0-60 time the best mod is a driver named Kalstar. Just say'n.

[AZPete]

Congratulations on the go-kart drive! I noticed that the turning radius is okay - at least to the left.

[metalmaker12]

Thanks, by no means is this my first run, just first taped run. Radius is pretty much the same side to side, and is average.

[wallace18]

Congrats on the test run. Great job! Hope I am next.

[wleehendrick]

That was my friends wife lol, she thinks I am nuts along with my wife

Nice run... my wife thinks you're nuts too! (she thought I was nuts a year and a half ago when I said I'm planning on building an 818; now that I have it, she's on board. :D)

P.S. I grew up in SE CT, and miss driving the New England back roads in the fall... brought back memories.


Radius is pretty much the same side to side, and is average.

If you need to turn tighter, just pop the clutch!

[07FIREBLADE]

What is the current thread of the shifter right now? Wicked video cant wait unit may for my kit to show up.

[FFR-ADV]

Thanks for sharing the video.

Are the body panels being painted right now?

Cheers!

[metalmaker12]

I Am just starting to cut and fit them on, I might get it all together and register so I can really work the bugs out on the road than tear down and paint

[metalmaker12]

Heres a walk around, got the Iacv to behave
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JcE_idHorUM&feature=youtu.be

[metalmaker12]

slightly better exhaust audio, but not giving and justice

://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x3EoREyzHTw&feature=youtu.be

[C.Plavan]

Very cool. You are right, that stock shifter is way too high- It's a "Monkey Bar" shifter....haha

[metalmaker12]

I said its high, never said I didn't like it

[C.Plavan]

Sorry- didn't mean to knock it.

[metalmaker12]

Sorry- didn't mean to knock it.

No no, I was just playin C. Plavan, I think is sticks into space somewhere and is whatever you want to call it lol. I am just saying it actually is a comfortable shift point for me. You might like its location as well, just maybe not its looks which I concur on. So it's perfectly ok to break out the jokes on me;)

[Frank818]

Is your airbox going to be right under the small NACA scoop (on the fb panel)?

[metalmaker12]

Is your airbox going to be right under the small NACA scoop (on the fb panel)?

Yeap, but I am fabbing up an intake out of stainless to fit in the same location but look cooler.

[RM1SepEx]

you ran your light and fan wires down the left side of the car?

[metalmaker12]

Yeap, lights, fans, wipers, brake master level sendor are all on drivers side

[RM1SepEx]

I ran my rear end wires down the left, they came off the fuel pump/rear harness. Did I see your's running down the right side?

[metalmaker12]

Huh drivers is left Dan

[RM1SepEx]

Huh drivers is left Dan

Although I do often confuse left and right (MS related, holes in my brain) in this case I see your front wiring going down the left, driver's side but in video 72 on the previous page I see wire bundled all around the right, passenger side rear shock tower.

So it looks to me that the front wiring goes down the left and the rear down the right...

:-)

[metalmaker12]

Yes you are correct, sorry for the confusion. The way it laid out , that worked best for me. So front down left and rear out to the right, my bad

[metalmaker12]

http://youtu.be/fWpFGZMM4PU

Emergency, you guys like my cut out layout, I swear I have seen it somewhere before

[Erik W. Treves]

looks like you didn't put the LED flasher unit it...too fast...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nUhL41jrRNg&feature=youtu.be

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Emergency, you guys like my cut out layout, I swear I have seen it somewhere before

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23356&d=1384395637
Only on the back of the slow blue car
Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23357&d=1384401785

Where you going to put the license plate?

[metalmaker12]

No flasher unit yet, plate on bottom screen

[metalmaker12]

looks like you didn't put the LED flasher unit it...too fast...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nUhL41jrRNg&feature=youtu.be

Looking good man!!

[longislandwrx]

Dat ***!

[Frank818]

Metal, did you just change the bulbs or the entire lamp units?

And where are your reverse lights?

[metalmaker12]

The blinkers and reverse are together, Amber/ white led. You have to use the ground to each bulb and than the corresponding signal wire. Red lights: park, head, brake lights. White: turn/amber , reverse/white led lights. What do you mean when you ask if I just changed the bulbs or the whole unit?

[metalmaker12]

The blinkers and reverse are together, Amber/ white led. You have to use the ground to each bulb and than the corresponding signal wire. Red lights: park, head, brake lights. White: turn/amber , reverse/white led lights. I did not have it in reverse, I will take a longer video next time

[Frank818]

Oh I get it!! Nice idea, I am very interested into that! Which post # mentions which bulbs (specs or brand or where you got them) you got?

What I meant is if you used the units FFR provides or if you bought a whole kit. The round lenses and housings inside, are those the ones from FFR for which you swap the normal bulbs with your nice LEDs?

[metalmaker12]

I used the FFR bulbs and sockets and made my own lamp harness from the subaru rear tail light plug

[Xusia]

So how does what you did differ from what the manual says?

[Frank818]

I used the FFR bulbs and sockets

Sockets, that's it, that's the word. God I have problems with words and US State codes, today. lolll

I am interested in full LED sockets as usually they have a light pattern design which I really appreciate, but if I can't find anything that would fit ok I know your LED bulbs of brand x can, so I will revert to plan B which is basically the setup you did.

[metalmaker12]

So how does what you did differ from what the manual says?

Manual?, what's that

I did not really look at it for any of my wiring, but I think there might be something in there, I can send it to you if you want to read up on it .

[metalmaker12]

Here's some cutout and fit up pics

http://s776.photobucket.com/user/surfpoint2/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpseed030c8.jpg.html?filters%5Buser%5D=13826 1211&filters%5Brecent%5D=1&sort=1&o=1

http://s776.photobucket.com/user/surfpoint2/library/

[metalmaker12]

More to come

[Mechie3]

Cuts look nice And square. What'd you use to cut it?

[FFR-ADV]

Hey Metalmaker

I love what you did with the 818R style back and license plate centered over the transmission. That will look so hot with the diffuser!

I just finished my WRX tear down today. Had four different times where the internal nut weld broke inside gave and I had to cut the body open to get a wrench on the nut. Couldn't get the PB blaster onto those bolts until it was open then it got a torch and PB blaster. That part was less fun, but I guess perseverance is the key. My wife said I looked like a coal miner when I finished. Next I clean it up and change the timing belt and water pump and delete the unneeded stuff.

Cheers!

[Frank818]

I like that metal. Will get the heat out quickly.
Now I have to find your post which says everything about your nice rims, they are in my top 3 but I have not taken notes of what they are and size/offset. :)

Kraft BR10, Gram light 57 extreme look a likes
17x8 +35 215/40
18x9 +42 with 3mm spacer 255/35

[metalmaker12]

I used a freaking laser beam! Always wanted to say that.

I used a 1" hole saw, air saw, de-burr tool and cut off wheel along with some sand paper

[Frank818]

Metal, am I crazy or what?
I looked around on google and couldn't find the website of Bremmer Kraft. Then on tirerack.com when I search for all wheels they only list the size, but no other specs.
By any chance do you know where I can see all the specs available on the BR10 (or Bremmer's site)?

tnx

[metalmaker12]

I bought them on tirerack, the fronts are 17x8 +35. If you look under 2004 vw gti you will see this size width and offset in 5x100. The rears are 18x9+42 under a brz search. You have to click from 18x8 to 18x9 which is an option. I than called them telling them what I was doing, and what t there for and picked a set of 215/40 17 fronts and 255/35 18 rears. This should help you out

The specs are on tirerack once your under shop by vehicle, here's the fronts

http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/results.jsp?filterSize=All&filterFinish=All&filterBrand=Bremmer+Kraft&filterWeight=All&autoMake=Volkswagen&autoModel=GTI+1.8T&autoYear=2004&autoModClar=&sort=Brand&filterNew=All&filterSpecial=false

[Frank818]

Absolutely, under shop by vehicle it works, but I don't want to narrow down my options by doing that, how can I know of all the specs when I don't know which cars to use in the search. :) For example specs may be different for an Aston Martin but if I use a Porsche it may give me a different offset or bolt pattern and maybe that different offset is the one I want, but how can I know it exists if I don't select the Porsche in the search. :) I mailed them about that cuz I can't know what's available.

Another example, I would like to know if your BR10s are available in 18x9.5 IF I decide to use 265s and what offsets under which bolt pattern. I have to mail TireRack to ask them every single question.

So I will scan all wheels, check which ones I prefer, then mail them asking in 17 and 18 what are all the specs available. I think that's the best approach so far. I plan on buying my tires there (don't know the size yet, it may depend on the wheel I get, hence knowing the available specs), so it may be a good idea to by the wheels too.

Tnx for pointing out how you did it. :)


Whoever want these wheels soon may have to buy quick, there are fewer than 3 available and in closeout. :) I hope they will get more within a year...

[metalmaker12]

pretty sure 18x9 is the widest and with +42

[Frank818]

Ok, not sure on which thread to post this, but if you are looking at TireRack and don't know which bolt pattern or offset or width you wanna use, here's what TR has to say:

Unfortunately our business is set up using guaranteed fitments by vehicle search. If you have questions about offset, center bore, etc., on any certain wheel you can call us, but you will not see these search options online.

[metalmaker12]

Yea, but if you know what you want, than just order up playa

[508wrx]

Coming along good! Can't wait to start my build on the 14th. Did Matt enjoy the go kart ride ahaha

[metalmaker12]

Yea, lol miner and I had fun, many more times to come!!

[longislandwrx]

Is there a trick to getting the coolant adapters over the rubber pieces? I got my rubber pieces onto the long tubes, but getting the couplers on seems crazy tight.

[metalmaker12]

Is there a trick to getting the coolant adapters over the rubber pieces? I got my rubber pieces onto the long tubes, but getting the couplers on seems crazy tight.

I used some dish soap, it worked well. To get the rubber subaru hoses over the stainless tubes I used heat and soap, when using heat you should use some welding gloves or thick leather gloves.

[Frank818]

Metal, remind me, you said you are not the one on the your video test driving the car right? A wife's friend?
So, are you or are you not a Bruins fan? :)

[metalmaker12]

I was driving, that girl pushing the baby was not my wife, and yes I am very much involved in hockey and a bruins fan, go bruins!!!!

[Mechie3]

I used teflon spray wax. A rubber mallet helped too.

[metalmaker12]

Heres some pics, more progress in the works
2368523686236872368823689236902369123692

not everything was finalized in all pics, but i did add some two extra screws through the door into the door frame to lock in the door more securely. it seems to hold it together more to my liking. it would have been ok without, but just a bit more secure with them. as you can see as Mike did i counter sunk my door and door plate for my screws, which is a must if you want tight lines. I am working on the rear section bonnets, which are bit of a pain to get just right. i recommend putting the rear section and quarters, doors, windshield frame and than nose....

Oh and Natalia, my 3 year old can already out drive me so she is my future autocross driver, she loves the 818!!!

[Canadian818]

Looking good! My daughter is 5 and has been an integral part of the donor tear down. I think she might be more excited than me when my crate arrives.

[metalmaker12]

Looking good! My daughter is 5 and has been an integral part of the donor tear down. I think she might be more excited than me when my crate arrives.

I want to see pics off that rat rod power stroke, very cool

[Canadian818]

I want to see pics off that ray rod poet stroke, very cool

Haha, its just a quarter of my garage worth of parts right now. I have my wheels, rear end, transmission, engine, and of course cab. Going to make everything else, it was supposed to be done before the 818, but now it'll be a project for next summer. I'll be starting a build thread in a few weeks, hope to have the kit for christmas! You'll probably see the patina in every pic, lol.

[metalmaker12]

I want to see pics off that rat rod power stroke, very cool

I have a few friends with rat rods that are pretty cool rides

23706

[C.Plavan]

Looking good!

[metalmaker12]

It's getting there tomorrow, I have both doors mounted, and lines look great. I will start on the windshield frame and nose mock up.

[SkiRideDrive]

Those wheels. I like these the best of all I have seen so far.

[Frank818]

Those wheels. I like these the best of all I have seen so far.

The wheels on the rat rod?

[metalmaker12]

I like them the most so far also, and prob will be one of the top 5 designs to use on the 818.

[Frank818]

I agree with that. These and the Rota Torque are awesome on this car.

[metalmaker12]

Some more body mounting, got it all mocked up, need to make some custom stuff to get it all where i want. Had to trim stuff much like Mike Everson, if you need details, I can send stuff via email
237962379723798

[Mechie3]

Looking good!

[FFR-ADV]

Looking great metalmaker!

Thank you for sharing so much about your build!

[metalmaker12]

Looking great metalmaker!

Thank you for sharing so much about your build!

No prob, I enjoy being able to be part of this all, I consider my self fortunate enough to be a part of this with you all, and I am willing to help out where I can

[Frank818]

No prob, I enjoy being able to be part of this all, I consider my self fortunate enough to be a part of this with you all, and I am willing to help out where I can

You already did. Keep up the good pace!
When the next rear tire spin scheduled? If you know...

[metalmaker12]

You already did. Keep up the good pace!
When the next rear tire spin scheduled? If you know...

I am trying my best, it's wicked cold up here, and my garage heat can only keep up a little so it's a bit of a ice box to work in. My goal is to get the panels all on and than get it to my friend garage for body work etc so I can work in a nice heated environment with actual space.

[metalmaker12]

Paul Walker has died, RIP man

[Mechie3]

I saw that. The first fast and furious movie got me into cars to start.

[metalmaker12]

weather broke a bit still in the 30's and 40's, at least not 17, heres some outside shots, much to still do, just getting the panels closer hours at a time. wheel wells are close, the rear section can come in a bit, and I have to swing the noise up about 1/2"
238152381623817


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=854xQgXaj30&feature=em-upload_owner

[Aloha818]

weather broke a bit still in the 30's and 40's, at least not 17, heres some outside shots, much to still do, just getting the panels closer hours at a time. wheel wells are close, the rear section can come in a bit, and I have to swing the noise up about 1/2"
238152381623817


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=854xQgXaj30&feature=em-upload_owner

Looking great! Any specific issues you have had on fitment that I should plan for now? Thanks for posting updates!

I have only temp mounted the rear bumper and side sails to kind of see where to run wiring so far. Definitely going to take some body prep before finish, edges of each body panel on mine are pretty rough.

Do you have a color scheme yet? I feel for you on the cold, glad I'm in Hawaii, 70 at night 80 during the day.

[metalmaker12]

The rear bonnet door gap is kind of a basic issue. You have to bring in the rear section about 1/4" to get a decent line. I am going to make a support to bring it in rather than rely on the hood pins. The front end needs to have certain adjustments to get it right. I have had to play with some of my mounting holes, moving some, I would use fiber tech fiberglass filler, works great on filling holes in this stuff. You than have to put a light coat of the next required filler to finish before primer. The front really needs a upper fender support to hold the fender up so the hood can clear the window frame. A good spot for this support is right off the hood pin frame mount. 2 1/4---2 1/2 is a good guess on its size. You will need something that bolts from top and bottom, nothing large dia 1/4-20 screw a etc. any more specific questions pm me, I could go on for awhile on all that I have done to get to this point.

I have three ideas for color schemes, just not sure which I will choose

[rplourdejr]

weather broke a bit still in the 30's and 40's, at least not 17, heres some outside shots, much to still do, just getting the panels closer hours at a time. wheel wells are close, the rear section can come in a bit, and I have to swing the noise up about 1/2"
238152381623817


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=854xQgXaj30&feature=em-upload_owner

Nice work. Your car is coming along really great.

I picked up my 818 on 11/23/13 and I live in Barrington RI so we are not too far away from each other.

Rob

[Frank818]

The rear bonnet door gap is kind of a basic issue. You have to bring in the rear section about 1/4" to get a decent line. I am going to make a support to bring it in rather than rely on the hood pins. The front end needs to have certain adjustments to get it right. I have had to play with some of my mounting holes, moving some, I would use fiber tech fiberglass filler, works great on filling holes in this stuff. You than have to put a light coat of the next required filler to finish before primer. The front really needs a upper fender support to hold the fender up so the hood can clear the window frame. A good spot for this support is right off the hood pin frame mount. 2 1/4---2 1/2 is a good guess on its size. You will need something that bolts from top and bottom, nothing large dia 1/4-20 screw a etc. any more specific questions pm me, I could go on for awhile on all that I have done to get to this point.

Well this is the first post I see detailing body work or even mentioning there are any. Reading the other builds I understood no body work were required, just "adjustments" of existing panels, trimming, but no building (adding FB, creating new holes, new brackets, new support, etc.).

I've taken notes in case I come across this as well.

[Xusia]

I *REALLY* hope the body/paint are of acceptable quality. I'm not expecting show car quality here, but there are many people - including myself - that are planning on taking advantage of the "no paint" promise.

[Scargo]

Please go on and on... I'm glad I'm not hearing that you've had to cut or modify the GRP. Haven't ever heard that. Would any stiffening help?

[wleehendrick]

I *REALLY* hope the body/paint are of acceptable quality. I'm not expecting show car quality here, but there are many people - including myself - that are planning on taking advantage of the "no paint" promise.

IMO, 99% the finish is of acceptable quality. Most panels are fine. However, there are a few small areas on mine with voids or bubbles where it looks like the gel coat did not get applied perfectly to the mold.

I'm still a long way off from body mounting, so I'm hoping Metalmaker and others give us a good guide to follow. Thanks!

[metalmaker12]

[QUOTE=Frank818;128570]Well this is the first post I see detailing body work or even mentioning there are any. Reading the other builds I understood no body work were required, just "adjustments" of existing panels, trimming, but no building (adding FB, creating new holes, new brackets, new support, etc.).

I've taken notes in case I come across this as

Do you really think Wayne's car came out so good with a scuff and shoot? I am pretty sure Wayne's car was spray filled and or heavily block sanded and primed heavy and block sanded some more to look that hot. Erik sanded it and blocked it out, bonded his rear bonnets because he did not like the fitment. Look the panels are good quality like 85-90 percent, better than most fb panels with some imperfections and to get it all to a good quality you have to sand edges, fill some spots with iceing. If there are hair line cracks and or bubbles those have to be beveled out and fiberglass filled. All I am saying if there are imperfections and there are some, how is that truly paint free. For me I have no issue doing any of it, and in the body shop world it is all minor ****.

If you want a show stopper, block sanding or even spray filler block sand than prime etc etc. depending on color cause we all know how light colors can hide stuff but black has to be mint.

[Frank818]

Do you really think Wayne's car came out so good with a scuff and shoot?

But of course! Why not? lolll
Nah not at all actually. He did say his pal sanded sort of 46 times and stuff like that, but someone actually writing about building a bracket/support, moving holes, etc., I just didn't see anything that clear before, that's all.

[Mechie3]

I'll agree body panels are about 95% there from a finish standpoint (haven't mounted anything). A few corners here and there didn't quite fill out 100% but a majority of it is pretty good.

[metalmaker12]

Fact of the matter, the panels are good, not oem so you will have to massage them, sand certain edges to smooth out, get clean lines and maybe fix some gel coat imperfections. The thing is your going to need to trim stuff, sand and prob fill stuff, so painting it only makes sense. And if you want the panels to look butter, well your going to have to block the flat spots, soft pad da the round stuff, prep, prime with three good coats, block and da again,maybe seal and shoot. This will get it really good. If you want show only as I call ( aka trailer queen) well a spray filler might have to be used to get you there.

Fillers: fiber tech for hole fills, build up for strength
Fiber glass filler for build up in visable areas.
Body filler/ iceing to skim coat and fill fine sand scratches

I am block sanding gel with 220-320 and da sanding it good, with say 400 prep prime, step one again with 400,600 da, and maybe some wet 600 prep shoot prob a 3 stage

[Frank818]

Yeah, body work. :) But once you get into it, it's all the same pattern. I was expecting a minimum to be done anyway and that (above) does not seem too much.
I will be wrapping the panels in my case, so I guess even scratches may not be an issue. Flat spots maybe.

[flynntuna]

Remember that the fiberglass is suppose to be a short term fix until the thermoformed panels are perfected. Hopefully the transition will be coming soon.

[metalmaker12]

Good luck to the thermo form, it would be cool, but will cost more to create.

[C.Plavan]

Remember that the fiberglass is suppose to be a short term fix until the thermoformed panels are perfected. Hopefully the transition will be coming soon.

Don't hold your breath.....

[metalmaker12]

Got front hood pins were i want them23868

[Frank818]

FFR's pins?
Not sure I understood what's wrong with FFR's location (couple of inches upwards)?

[metalmaker12]

Yeah FFR pins, but I will be using different hood pin covers. U can put them in maybe two slightly different spots
Mine are pretty much were the green willwood cars are

[Frank818]

I'm still debating what sort of hood pins or other mechanism I want to open these panels (front and rear). It's the first time in my life I will deal with that kind of stuff. I guess I'll see what others are using through different builds and make mind with that.

[Erik W. Treves]

Got front hood pins were i want them23868

I know this is probably late...obviously... but you really should mount the head lights and get the nose centered and then mount the fenders, BEFORE, you set the hood in there to get the gaps. The fenders actually lay on the lights and cause the gaps to move and almost certain that where you have the fenders now will not be where end up after you lay in the lights...mine move quite a bit....course that what worked for me...you can always cheat a little from where you are now by messing with the bracket and re-drilling the holes...

you can see in this pic how much space I have at the point of the fender by the light...the fender is TIGHT against the head light.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=22996&d=1383091777

It may be how much I trimmed or something...all I know is mine was as tight as yours, before I installed the lights...This is why in al my body work pictures my headlights where wrapped in blue tape and installed the whole time....

[metalmaker12]

I know this is probably late...obviously... but you really should mount the head lights and get the nose centered and then mount the fenders, BEFORE, you set the hood in there to get the gaps. The fenders actually lay on the lights and cause the gaps to move and almost certain that where you have the fenders now will not be where end up after you lay in the lights...mine move quite a bit....course that what worked for me...you can always cheat a little from where you are now by messing with the bracket and re-drilling the holes...

you can see in this pic how much space I have at the point of the fender by the light...the fender is TIGHT against the head light.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=22996&d=1383091777

It may be how much I trimmed or something...all I know is mine was as tight as yours, before I installed the lights...This is why in al my body work pictures my headlights where wrapped in blue tape and installed the whole time....

Good tip, it's really not to late, I had them mocked in already, but took them out. I see what your saying about the gap. I also had to and have to trim the hood bottom edge down like almost a 1/4 so it will sit flush, I am guessing you did also.

[Wayne Presley]

The fenders actually lay on the lights and cause the gaps to move and almost certain that where you have the fenders now will not be where end up after you lay in the lights.

The headlights do change how everything lays on the nose/hood/fenders.

[metalmaker12]

Got head lights in, now upper hood pins, post more Lata 2401124012

[metalmaker12]

Got head lights in, now upper hood pins, post more Lata 2401124012

[wallace18]

Got head lights in, now upper hood pins, post more Lata 2401124012

Did the front of the hood seem a tight fit to you? Mine is very tight between the nose opening.

[metalmaker12]

Did the front of the hood seem a tight fit to you? Mine is very tight between the nose opening.

Hey Tom, Yeah it is tight, had to trim hood and front section sides slightly, the lights do open it slightly. Definitely install the lights. I still have to trim the hoods sides down about 3/16 so it sits flush. I also have a large crack in my hood and a fender so I have to fix it. I am using west system epoxy resin and fibers to fix things and strengthen certain areas.

[metalmaker12]

Had to make a hood and hood pin mount, on the newer chassis the mount off the frame is higher so this is an early kit upgrade, FFR can tell you when it changed 2416924170

I have to also create a support for the very front of the hood to get it to stay lined up with the front cover lines. I can now see why Erik made his hood swing up, the thing is I like the way hood pins look, call me oldschool, but they add a race look to the 818. I also like the windscreen far better than the full windshield. I guess I am saying I like 818r best so far but I wanted doors.

[metalmaker12]

Door panels are very nice 24198 here's mine just mocked up, I plan on changing there scheme

[JeromeS13]

Did yours come textured like that? I'm pretty sure mine are smooth...

[Frank818]

Door panels are very nice 24198 here's mine just mocked up, I plan on changing there scheme

Would have been quite practical if they had put a sheet of metal or plastic at the bottom of the pocket to actually create a pocket in which we can store some papers, pens, phones, and many other little things. I'll do it for sure.

[metalmaker12]

Textured, and there plastic not glass, there pretty nice.

[Racebrewer]

Thermoformed plastic????? First parts?

[RM1SepEx]

mine are smooth, not textured

[FFR-ADV]

Door cards as Thermoformed parts? That is a great first step and they look great!

Dear Santa,

I sure would not mind a removable hardtop with Vman's nice lines using Thermoformed panels.....

The forum members have been extra good this year...

Merry Christmas & Happy New Year!

[metalmaker12]

Yeap there plastic thermo formed and I was surprised when I got them. Very good stuff, I will set them up this weekend and in coming week to check there fitment.

[JeromeS13]

I'm curious how they decide who to send what? Some get angled front control arms. Some get straight ones. Some get fiberglass door panels. Some get plastic? It seems to be very random...

My headlight buckets are plastic. What is everyone else's made out of?

[Frank818]

I wonder if I'll get a GTM kit or an 818 kit when I'll pick it up. :)

They probably are in an adjustment phase and after 6-12 months it will stabilize. It's now being exactly 6 months (June 15th).

[metalmaker12]

My headlight buckets are fiberglass

[longislandwrx]

Cards look good. Thanks for posting.

[metalmaker12]

It's getting there, lots of little tweaks to get it nice nice, I am almost done with the front end, than back to the doors and rear bonnets to get them all lined up correctly. Once that's there, fill all little voids and get all edges sanded, sand body with 320 and prep and prime, about a month out if I am lucky

[Canadian818]

It's getting there, lots of little tweaks to get it nice nice, I am almost done with the front end, than back to the doors and rear bonnets to get them all lined up correctly. Once that's there, fill all little voids and get all edges sanded, sand body with 320 and prep and prime, about a month out if I am lucky

I'm noticing a trend. The first month or two, peoples build threads are alive, pics galore, everyone excited about the little differences between builds. Then the wiring and body work start and updates stop. I have no doubt that your plugging away just as much as the early part of the build, keep it up, can't wait to see it in paint!

[metalmaker12]

It is colder, and I have slowed a bit. I have some heat but not enough to keep it toasty, plus this time of year I get lazy.

[RM1SepEx]

The early stuff is easy to show progress, 2-4 hrs and something is complete... the wiring, nothing to see after 2-4 hrs! Then you get into the stuff that is more personalized... and it can take a while to make a decision fab something up etc... not much progress for 1/2 a day's work. And it's damn cold here too! :-) about a foot of that cold white stuff this AM to move

send out parts for powder coating, wait for them to come back. Play around with seating position, etc you can see how the "erector set" stuff flies along. Once you are past that stage, not so much.

[Mechie3]

I'm half in the "wiring takes time stage" and half in the "its 4 degrees out I think I'll just watch TV" stage. Lol.

[Canadian818]

I'm half in the "wiring takes time stage" and half in the "its 4 degrees out I think I'll just watch TV" stage. Lol.

This is why I'm considering a tv in the garage. And Wayne's harness, lol.

[RM1SepEx]

I have the TV in the garage but it's hard to keep it warm, I need to buy more K1 for the salamander that I used to get it up from the deep freeze. After that I use a propane radiant heater to maintain.

plowed and sno-blower work this AM with over a foot of new snow... now inside where it is warm for football!

[metalmaker12]

24253 2425424255, got dash mocked up and getting fender gaps to look the same on each side

[Erik W. Treves]

Did you try and fully open those doors with those gaps?

[metalmaker12]

Did you try and fully open those doors with those gaps?

Yeah they pretty open all the way, i moved the front of the door in a 1/8 and I do have to trim the very bottom of the fender slightly more, but there working about 90 percent. A lot of tweaking though.

[shinn497]

Which tranny are you using? and how is it going getting the wiring done?

[metalmaker12]

[QUOTE=shinn497;130915]Which tranny are you using? and how is it going getting the wiring done?[/QUOTE

I am using a clean running 2002 wrx with a cusco 1.5 way rs LSD. My wiring is all done except the headlights,FFR flasher resistor and getting the winshield washer up and running. Have you seen my cart videos?

[shinn497]

Yes I have. I gather you were able to get the AVSC working then. I wish I could see a dyno. I wonder if the question about the exhaust has been solved. I.E. do you get a boost in power because it is shorter.

[metalmaker12]

I decided I like the way they cut the R's quarter vent holes, so I went for it, came out good, and this is just the ruff cut. I have to just line up the rear hatch and finalize some hood pins and the bodies where I want it. Than som tweaking to the front fender to front cover. It seems FFR or the contracted company trimed more off my pass side well and my OCD tells me to make them exact even though there within an 1/8. So I have to tweak that. And than I gotta tweak my door catch so it works perfectly with no rubbing. I might cut out like grm and Wayne, but I think I can come up with something else to work well. I am also going to make a hood prop to get the middle up a bit so the top ends fold in flush,, thanks Erik. 24715

[metalmaker12]

Yes I have. I gather you were able to get the AVSC working then. I wish I could see a dyno. I wonder if the question about the exhaust has been solved. I.E. do you get a boost in power because it is shorter.

My AVCS is working perfectly, I will get it to a dyno in the fall, now is body fitting time. When driving I was able to get full boost at stock Sti trim of 14psi. The shorty should work well and reaching boost does not seem to be an issue, but until I get on a dyno I can not give rpm species and or any hard numbers. I had a shorty dump pretty much the same length on a Gsr turbo and it saw 30psi no issue. Typically with a turbo this should not matter

[Mechie3]

What's the difference in how the vents were cut?

[metalmaker12]

My vents, like the current R quarter vents do not have the aluminum frame or vent mesh, it is cut out larger. To me it looks much better, and is more functional.

[RM1SepEx]

Chris, is there a picture that we can look at? I'm just about there and I don't want to use the aluminum trim pieces either, they look too wide to me. I'm going to try to align and mount the body in white and see what I need to do paint, vinyl wrap etc longer term. Mount everything removable. If my body is good enough it will be white with the CF accents and mirrors... Time will tell

I'm hoping I can do something with the side vents to feed the intake on the right and the intercooler on the left

[longislandwrx]

I don't understand the question he posted a picture:

24720



Here's erik in the R

24721

[Erik W. Treves]

I like the larger cut out also! .. makes the hip look wider

[RM1SepEx]

Xcellent, Chris!

Your earlier photos had the outline for the FFR aluminum in marker...

That's exactly what I was thinking

I'd like to vent the left side to the IC and the right to the intake... the little vents on the top copuld be combined with them vs feeding air to the IC

the FFR aluminum doesn't look like it supports good IC air flow

BTW I was actually there the day that photo was taken with Erik sitting in the R! That was the day we met after last year's SEMA. I have that same photo from my camera on my HDD... LOL

Remember the uproar that the similar photo of Erik and his dad in the red S?

[Erik W. Treves]

don't remind me....

[metalmaker12]

It was cool to me, glad to see someone got to sit in it, if I was there it could have been me, people are silly. Anyway I will trim and sand it clean and take some more snaps. I was just looking at it for a couple weeks and than I just said, I want to cut it out like the R.

Btw: six ten west system epoxy caulk style tube is perfect for repairs, filling holes etc for our resin. I have used polyester, vinyl ester and epoxy on the 818 body and the epoxy is the winner by a long shot. It just holds up super strong and does not sink much if any and it has a way lower voc too.

[Xusia]

Hey Chris, did you use any mesh or any kind of insert? I really like the look of the larger vents and will probably do that myself.

[metalmaker12]

No mesh just wide open, you can see the tire right now,with the wheel well in Bedlinered black you will kinda see them behind it, that's if I even put the liners in, I might just do what they did on the R

[Mechie3]

I like the wide look too. If I do that, I'll probably but woven screen behind it. Not gutter guard or door screen like honda civics, but a woven diamond mesh like the front of the CTS-V. I use it on the front pod inlets on my F500 to keep rocks out. Anything smaller than 1/8" gets in easy since it's still a big opening, but it prevents the big things from causing damage.

Something like this might be interesting to see too (though not as big).

http://lotus.xplore4you.com/photos/Exige_0183_big.jpg

[metalmaker12]

It opens and lines up good, will post more details later on what you need to get it just right. 24751 24752

[metalmaker12]

It opens and lines up good, will post more details later on what you need to get it just right. 24751 24752. You can access your oil cap and dipstick like this, a bonnet prop in the works 24753

[Erik W. Treves]

be careful lifting it that way...mine actually cracked at the cut out in the hump when I was messing around with what to do about a hinged trunk. Not sure if yours is as thin as mine was...if you do end up doing what you are suggesting...I would at least 3 more layers of fiberglass (3x5 pieces) just inside the cut out.

[metalmaker12]

be careful lifting it that way...mine actually cracked at the cut out in the hump when I was messing around with what to do about a hinged trunk. Not sure if yours is as thin as mine was...if you do end up doing what you are suggesting...I would at least 3 more layers of fiberglass (3x5 pieces) just inside the cut out.

Good look bro, yea it's thin like yours, I am going to add some mat with some epoxy. I have and have to fix and strengthen many areas to my liking.

[Canadian818]

Good look bro, yea it's thin like yours, I am going to add some mat with some epoxy. I have and have to fix and strengthen many areas to my liking.

Would you consider posting some pics with a short write up about how you strengthened areas for those of us with no fiberglass experience? Or anyone else for the matter with the 'know how', Eric?

[metalmaker12]

I will

[metalmaker12]

I been fitting the body, making brackets like this bonnet stand that gets the large bonnet up enough to line up with the curve of the hatch and makes it all line up nice.my hatch opens and closes like 90 percent, gotta tweak it lata. You also have to recess the rear hood pins like i did in one of these pics. None of this seem to be in the build book, but I see FFR put supports on the green and red car.

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[wallace18]

Looks good. I like the bracket.

[metalmaker12]

It does the trick, it spreads the weight out more than a hood pin with a rubber cap. I am sure you noticed the need for something when fitting, you might be able to fit your cooler on its normal location with something like this

[metalmaker12]

25018 2501925020Heres some carbon wrap on my gas cap and I have the headlights working, going to wrap dash next

[flynntuna]

^ very cool :cool:

[JeromeS13]

I just wish I even had a gas cap... Tomorrow is two months from my production date...

[RM1SepEx]

mine fell apart, not sure what I'm going to do with it. The outer ring was glued on AFTER painting, a big chemical attachment no-no. The paint just peeled off. If I go with white gel coat and vinyl in orange with matching PC vents I'll pc the fuel filler too

since I'm not sure if the body will buff up well enough for it to stay white, I can't do anything yet.

The fuel filler is a cheap piece, if is a big bottleneck for you look for alternatives of better quality.

PS it took 3 months before I had all my pieces

[JeromeS13]

I actually got an update yesterday that they've moved to a new "1 piece cap" yesterday. Not sure if it's any better quality or design... We'll see.

[DruOdil]

25018 2501925020Heres some carbon wrap on my gas cap and I have the headlights working, going to wrap dash next

What brand of CF wrap are you using? I want to do some of the same.
Dru

[metalmaker12]

I actually got an update yesterday that they've moved to a new "1 piece cap" yesterday. Not sure if it's any better quality or design... We'll see.

I hope so, my cap looks good, but it is in two pieces also. I will request the new one

[RM1SepEx]

I hope so, my cap looks good, but it is in two pieces also. I will request the new one

good luck with that, they wouldn't replace mine and it came apart!

[Mechie3]

What's the two pieces we're referring to?

[Joe Scott]

good luck with that, they wouldn't replace mine and it came apart!

hey Dan, like JeromeS13 stated, we finally just received the new one piece gas caps the other day. chances are we did not have any more two piece ones in-stock, and we were awaiting to send you the new unit. please check your PM's and get back to me.

thanks! Joe@FFRTECH

[RM1SepEx]

What's the two pieces we're referring to?

The outer ring is glued to the cylindrical part with the cap and the o-rings for the hose

that silver finish is paint, before the two pieces were glued together, that's why there is a defined seam between the two pieces

[metalmaker12]

My one piece cap is in the mail, thanks Dan and Joe

[Racebrewer]

Please post a photo of the one piece unit.

Might be worth updating????????

[metalmaker12]

I will when it comes in, along with some better hood pin caps from mike eversons replicaparts.com and my dash work

[metalmaker12]

hey Dan, like JeromeS13 stated, we finally just received the new one piece gas caps the other day. chances are we did not have any more two piece ones in-stock, and we were awaiting to send you the new unit. please check your PM's and get back to me.

thanks! Joe@FFRTECH


Hey Joe, thanks again and yes you do like my car thanks.....hijacker!!! Lol

[metalmaker12]

What brand of CF wrap are you using? I want to do some of the same.
Dru

This wrap is the Avery brand, good stuff. I have used many different ones only really on small stuff. Many are very good, it has come a long way.

[metalmaker12]

I wrapped my dash with black and white carbon, i really like the way it came out. I am waiting for a new clock spring and two gauges and my new wheel and hub to show up. I have pretty much everything else hooked up and wired, except my grates (getting powdered), my door panels, my windshield and wipers. my seats and tunnel etc are out right now waiting for my other gauges to show up. Oh heres the new one piece style gas cap!!!
25320
25321253222532325324

also Mike Everson has these billet hood pin plates for sale, very nice quality with stainless hardware, my set are powered black
2532525326

[metalmaker12]

Helped Nick with his 818 on exhaust fab
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[C.Plavan]

Great job on the CF wrap. Looks awesome.

[esff32]

If you dont mind...what is the name of the CF wrap and where did you get it? Thanks for the help.

Evan

[metalmaker12]

Avery carbon wrap, AVS (auto vinyl solutions) also on ebay, Amazon

[esff32]

Thank you Sir!

[07FIREBLADE]

Looking good, ok where is Craig we need the cap to say 818, time to put that CNC to work again. What brand gauges did you get?

[metalmaker12]

Stri boost and oil temp gauges, with an innovative air fuel, that all light up red with my Sti cluster.

[Frank818]

Red brake lines? I didn't see that before while you were building.

[metalmaker12]

Red brake lines? I didn't see that before while you were building.

That's not my 818, my friend nick (stickshift84) has one about ten minutes from me. We help one another from time to time. We fit up his exhaust setup today. This week I plan on mocking up my final exhaust setup. I am going back to my original idea and it will be the cool. Some might remember that original plan. There is another 818 local that my buddy justin has, I will be helping him do the same. Also some others will be requesting various welding stuff.

[07FIREBLADE]

Are you planning on offering such exhaust setup if possible. I remember you saying you might

[metalmaker12]

I could make some mock ups, let me fit and weld my setup along with nicks and Justin's , than I will post it all and move on from there, over the next month or so I should have a better grasp on its potential. Juggling a lot right now so I don't want to commit to deep if it's going to overwhelm me.

[07FIREBLADE]

Completely understandable. Looking forward to hearing your results and maybe a cool new product/vendor to the community

[metalmaker12]

Center exit on its way!

I only did a 30 minute fit up, gotta tweak it more tomorrow for clearances, tack in place and tig it up. I am glad i stuck to my guns. If I do go down the road to creating this product I will have the pipes bent and use a stainless flange.
253782537925380

[metalmaker12]

I will post more this week and hopefully get nicks done too.

[Santiago]

I had a strong suspicion the center exit could be routed the way you did it - great to see confirmation of this! Looking forward to seeing the finished project.

Best,
-j

[metalmaker12]

I fit and tacked it after work today, came out good and is were i want it. I am prob not working tommorow cause were getting like 15" of snow so I will tack on a hanger for more support.

2540625407254082540925410

[Erik W. Treves]

hey! that looks pretty good! Are you worried about the heat of that pipe so close to the fiber glass?? looks a little close in the pictures.

[metalmaker12]

hey! that looks pretty good! Are you worried about the heat of that pipe so close to the fiber glass?? looks a little close in the pictures.

Yeah, I am concerned of heat so I will wrap it and put a heat shield between the body and tip. I will post it when I fab something.

[Scargo]

I like it! Clean look. May not be too close...

[flynntuna]

It looks very good, makes the rear look "balanced". Your not using a rear diffuser right?

[metalmaker12]

It has about 3/16-1/4 clearance and will get .080 aluminum for a heat shield with refrsail between the glass and heat shield.

I am using a diffuser, just not FFR's. I am going to make one. Actually all my aero parts

[flynntuna]

In a couple of years(seems like forever) when I get to the exhaust part of the build, what's your thoughts of the exhaust terminating in an aluminum diffuser where your tube goes under the tranny.

[nkw8181]

looking good looking good!

[Santiago]

In a couple of years(seems like forever) when I get to the exhaust part of the build, what's your thoughts of the exhaust terminating in an aluminum diffuser where your tube goes under the tranny.

In the same vein of thought, metalmaker, could you shoot a pic of the underside to get a better look at when the routing straightens out? If the last bend is almost at the tip of the trans it's going to make what I have in mind difficult. So I'm hoping it's closer (or possible to make closer) to the middle of the trans.

I'm also planning on fabbing my own aero...a far more aggressive package than what's running on the R-car now.

Best,
-j

[metalmaker12]

Yea I will take a snap later, gotta go clean snow up. It could be designed to bend down and directly under the cross brace than 90 out to a diffuser exhaust etc. my design bends out on an angle than bends straight to the tip. It's a 12 degree high today with a -16 windchill, nice and brisk outside.

[longislandwrx]

Looks great, shouldn't need to hack up the diffuser too bad

[Canadian818]

In a couple of years(seems like forever) when I get to the exhaust part of the build, what's your thoughts of the exhaust terminating in an aluminum diffuser where your tube goes under the tranny.

Thinking blown diffuser?

[Mechie3]

Looks great, shouldn't need to hack up the diffuser too bad

He's not using the FFR diffuser. He could make something cool like this:

http://image.motortrend.com/f/29105731+w750/2012-lexus-LFA-rear-view-static.jpg

or something like this, with the exhaust moved to the middle:
http://www.clublexus.com/forums/attachments/is-second-generation/193969d1292427995-euroteck-motorsports-new-carbon-fiber-rear-diffuser-is350-is250-f430_press-rear.jpg

[RM1SepEx]

Chris, no CAT, no Muffler... too loud?

[Scargo]

I'm going to do my own aero as well. Has anyone looked into cheap off the shelf diffusers? Something more impact resistant than a FRP? Was thinking I would do some feasibility testing with alumalite panels. When I was a modelmaker I did some wild stuff with shaping and fabricating Foamcore. If it can be fastened to itself without too much in the way of ugly bracketry it might be viable. I'm thinking of setting the vertical ribs in an extruded frame that's possibly pop-riveted on and/or using epoxy or urethane to hold it together. That might be a really fast and inexpensive way to go. I might even see if I can spot TIG it without destroying it! How much strength do the vertical ribs have to have?

[Xusia]

How much strength do the vertical ribs have to have?

Well, based on the look of the FFR diffuser and ribs, I'd say not much. They are inline with the airflow, so I doubt they'd get much stress.

[VD2021]

I fit and tacked it after work today, came out good and is were i want it. I am prob not working tommorow cause were getting like 15" of snow so I will tack on a hanger for more support.

2540625407254082540925410

Very nice.

[metalmaker12]

Chris, no CAT, no Muffler... too loud?

It's really about the same as an educated guess since it is just tacked. the manga flow shorty is a high flow exhaust . I don't mind loud,as long as it sounds good.

[flynntuna]

Thinking blown diffuser?


That's an option... Or

[Frank818]

The Lotus pic is pretty much what I'll be doing. But I think I'll make it exit further in the front of the diffuser. Much like Adrian Newey's blown diffuser technique. Though he did it mostly on the sides of the diffuser. In my case since the tranny will be transversal, it may be quite easier to do it than with a longitudinal tranny.

[metalmaker12]

Now your getting it

[Santiago]

I'm getting that warm-fuzzy "sick minds think alike" feeling all-over again...God I love this community. :D

Ok then...let's see what ya'll come up with for the doors...:rolleyes:

Best,
-j

[Canadian818]

A really effective blown diffuser can be dangerous. If it provides significant downforce, you'll risk upsetting the car if you had to lift the throttle mid-corner. The RedBull car use some very precise engine mapping to effectively misfire the engine during throttle lift so it still pumped air through the exhaust, feeding the diffuser. It sounded terrible, which effectively led to it being banned.

I don't know how effective you could be at producing downforce on a 818 by exiting the exhaust pre-diffuser without a wind tunnel or Newey. I considered it, but decided it wasn't worth the effort.

Love the exhaust Metal, can't wait to see your diffuser.

[Xusia]

You could always snorkel the exhaust! LOL

[Santiago]

C'mon Canada - don't they teach you in the great north to "never lift!" in mid-corner? :D

You're point is well taken though. I've heard that on a turbo car the exhaust velocity is very high and used to cause a good deal of instability for drivers - but in the early days of blown diffusers this wasn't a problem mid-corner, it was a problem at corner entry where you go from "great downforce" in the straight approaching your braking zone - to "I'm losing all that downforce as I lose speed" - to "oh snap! WTH just happened?!?" Of course, if a driver grows comfortable with this, he/she can drive around that unpleasant phase and get on with using it as an advantage everywhere else.

Anyway, I don't think we've got the right packaging freedom to really make a blown diffuser that effective. Looks like at best we can get some exhaust flow over the top of a diffuser (poss. w/in a second deck), which will help a bit, but not so much as to make the difference in efficiency huge. You can also stick the exhaust in the ceiling like the Lotus example above, but that isn't the best way to improve efficiency. I think these limitations will actually help to prevent us from making one super sensitive to on/off-throttle downforce.

For me it's just a cool project to consider if it isn't consuming tons of time.

Best,
-j

[Frank818]

The RedBull car use some very precise engine mapping to effectively misfire the engine during throttle lift so it still pumped air through the exhaust, feeding the diffuser.

If it's only a matter of a timing and fuel, I can do it. But not planed so far.


I don't know how effective you could be at producing downforce on a 818 by exiting the exhaust pre-diffuser without a wind tunnel or Newey. I considered it, but decided it wasn't worth the effort.

Oh probably not at all, it's just for looks and the fun of it. I don't think at part throttle it will have ANY effect at all in normal driving speeds on the pathetic 100km/h MAX Canadian roads.
I believe it may be useful if always at 100% TPS and driving fast enough and having hot enough exhaust gases.

Maybe I'm wrong, but it would require a damn good diffuser and exhaust setup to take advantage of it. :)
And of course, more downforce in the back requires more up front to balance it out.

But check out Metal's, it looks great, though!

[longislandwrx]

In case everyone is not familiar with what these mad scientists are talking about:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ui6EDypjZKQ

[Mechie3]

It sounded awesome but was stupid loud which effectively led to it being banned.


Fixed your comment for you. ;)


You could always snorkel the exhaust! LOL

The production version of the Porsche 918 has dual exhaust outlets in the humps.

http://status-cars.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/8044899949_5fe9270470_o.jpg

[Frank818]

The production version of the Porsche 918 has dual exhaust outlets in the humps.

I don't get it. With less dense air at the top, the denser air underneath would normally push the rear end up. What am I missing here...



Sorry Metal to use your thread for that discussion, it's sort of related, but we could move it elsewhere. :)
Actually I would love to have that discussion in my thread if you feel yours has been hijacked. :)

[Frank818]

Ok I get it. The goal was absolutely not aerodynamic-wise.

http://press.porsche.com/news/release.php?id=787


The top pipes’ greatest benefit is optimal heat removal, because the hot exhaust gases are released via the shortest possible route, and exhaust gas back pressure remains low.

There is another benefit as well: the engine compartment remains cooler. This is especially beneficial to the lithium-ion traction battery, as it provides optimum performance at temperatures between 68 and 104 degrees Fahrenheit. Consequently, less energy needs to be used for active cooling of the battery.

[RM1SepEx]

It's really about the same as an educated guess since it is just tacked. the manga flow shorty is a high flow exhaust . I don't mind loud,as long as it sounds good.

In Maine, no cat, no muffler, no sticker...

[metalmaker12]

RI on a kit car you can have straight pipes, but on a passenger you need cat and muff

[Mechie3]

I don't get it. With less dense air at the top, the denser air underneath would normally push the rear end up. What am I missing here...


Cool factor. :cool: Someone said smokestack, I thought of that. Certainly different and exotic.


RI on a kit car you can have straight pipes, but on a passenger you need cat and muff

For street cars indiana has zero inspections, ever. :D

[Scargo]

I had no idea a diffuser was a key element of aero! I had thought that they didn't give you much bang for the buck.

To quote a comment from F1 technical forum (http://www.f1technical.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=484):
In 2001 the figures were in the 1500 to 1700 kg of downforce......
I've heard that the distribuition of downforce is aproximatly:
35 - 40% - rear wing
25 - 35% - front wing
20 - 25% - diffuser
5 - 10% - body work (including flip ups.....etc)

That would mean that the diffuser, in conjunction with the other aero that makes it perform so well, produced 320-400 kg of downforce. That's 705-882 pounds!
There was a claim that a GT3 RS produces almost 130 lbs of downforce on the rear axle at 125mph.
That blows me away. I know that the diffuser piece in the back doesn't do it all by itself; it is a process that starts at the front and runs the length of the car and is helped by skirts, a smooth bottom, etc. I had thought that a wing, or in the case of my STI hatch, a spoiler that kicks up, created the majority of the downforce in the rear. I understand a diffuser, and associated aero for the underside, creates downforce that is felt all the way to the middle of the car.

[metalmaker12]

I am looking over my options for the aero material. Alumiite looks pretty neat and is prob what myself and others will choose as a easy working, lite and very strong/durable material.

[Santiago]

Scargo, that was 2001...they've really upped the ante these days with diffuser technology. Last I heard they were getting upwards of 40% of the total downforce from their diffusers.

I think what's important to note is that the diffuser isn't actually "creating" downforce in the same way a wing does. They act more as ways to get something out of other elements (primarily the underbody ahead of it, but they are also interacting with the rear wing on something shaped like an F1 body). So I think it's better to say, "we'd lose 25% of the downforce we can make when we take the diffuser off the car and test." You can tailor where the downforce is felt on the car by adjusting where the lowest pressure region will be ahead of it (i.e. just forward of where the diffuser begins).

I'll be the first to say I don't fully know much about how a diffuser works - or better, what I do know raises many questions I've yet found answers to in studying them. These days I think of them as analogous to the bottom part of a carburetor venturi (just think of it in side view with the body sliced in half). Most of us know that system pretty well, and we get the basic gist of it. The diffuser is where the air that had previously been drawn into a narrow choke (and thus created so much vacuum/low pressure) is allowed to expand. In the expansion itself you don't get tons of negative pressure, what you get is actually a gradual increase in overall pressure. So you would think it would be doing a disservice to the task of producing downforce, until you realize that what you're really doing is allowing the air to expand into a larger area. The more expansion you get in the actual diffuser area, the more low pressure you'll have at the throat of the diffuser as you're able to draw more and more air through it. Back to our carb venturi, the parallel would be something like having a bigger cubic inch engine, with bigger pistons displacing more area to draw in more air through that same venturi (which would require faster & ever lower pressure air). The diffuser is kind of like your piston retreating into the bore, and like them bigger isn't always better (bigger is better only when you can get away with it).

Here's the rub, you only get this if you get more expansion you can make use of. In an engine, you have a moving physical part tasked with the job of creating that expansion in virtue of its movement while sealed to the wall. With a diffuser, you have a fixed part moving through air. But just as with your piston, if the seal on the bore is shot, you're not going to get that expansion (I find it helpful to think of an extreme case: what would happen to your carb signal if you had a 302 slug being drawn into a BBF bore? - you get diddly at the carb). Because there's no moving part w/in a part with a diffuser, we need to address how to get a seal that will effectively move air through it as it expands the area for the air to go. To get "a seal" on our diffuser, we need to maintain laminar flow through it (most of the "draw" of our "inverted/fixed piston" is through the low pressure area along the walls of the diffuser -that, I think, is where you find the analogy of the piston seal/tolerance, etc.). You can't just throw on the largest most-monster opening out back and expect to get much action; the air flow will delaminate and you get turbulent junk mucking up the scenery. So you have to control the angle, size, element area, and a host of other factors I know little of to get the best flow through there. There are some rules of thumb to go by, so folks like us can make a stab at it, but we should just contend with the fact that we're either making an aesthetic piece or committing to iterative testing.

And with that, I both horrify true aerodynamicists and expose the depths of my ignorance. Still, that "piston analogy" is what is making sense to me these days. If others can chime in to clarify or correct me, please help.

Best,
-john

[shinn497]

I was under the impression that diffusers are so effective that they have to be regulated in motorsport. as I understand, they create a low pressure zone through adiabatic expansion, which can be a very powerful effect.

Then again I'm a physicst not an aerodynamicist...which is a highly specialized physicst.

[FFR-ADV]

Center exit on its way!

I only did a 30 minute fit up, gotta tweak it more tomorrow for clearances, tack in place and tig it up. I am glad i stuck to my guns. If I do go down the road to creating this product I will have the pipes bent and use a stainless flange.
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That sure would be a great product! Nice work!

Looking forward to seeing the center exhaust with the CF Rear Diffuser and 818R style cutouts!

[Blitzkrieg]

What is the 0-60 looking like?

[metalmaker12]

From my go-pro from start to finish (0-60) it is under 4 seconds. I would say the car wih my setup ( wrx gearing, 8,600 redline and cusco 1.5 lsd, and decent grip) I should be able to get a low to mid 3 sec 0-60. My power to the wheels will be around 300-315 once tuned.

[Frank818]

Finally some performance numbers on the 818. lolll

That's perfect, cuz I target low 3, now I know I can probably reach it. Assuming I have enough traction, that will be THE biggest wall to jump over.

The thing is with this car is the top speed limitation, due to the gearing (even me with the VW 02A gearing). But anyway, that won't be a problem for me as I don't drive that fast on the roads and probably won't go on a track often.

[Scargo]

Was that with 255x35x18 rears you had talked about? What tires specifically? How much wheelspin during the 0-60?
Is that box one that has 3.90 gears?

[metalmaker12]

Yokohama s drives,good grip with 20psi 255/35/r18 rears,low- moderate wheel spin, temperature dependent. 60 degrees plus recommended.
The box is a 02 wrx:
Manual transmission gear ratios:
1st - 3.454
2nd - 1.947
3rd - 1.366
4th - 0.972
5th - 0.738
reverse - 3.333
final drive ratio - 3.90

[bompus]

Random question.. The Cusco 1.5 LSD.. can you install it yourself? Does it require any special tools, precision measurements, expertise? I'm planning the same LSD for my build and was curious if it was something I am capable of doing or if I need to have a shop do it.

[metalmaker12]

Fair question, have you ever rebuilt any transmission? If so what kind, if I remember right there might be a few subie specific tranny tools but, other tools can take the place of them. They are not super easy to get just right, so if your not experienced get a tranny guy to install it. The whole tranny needs to be taken apart for this upgrade.

[bompus]

I have not rebuilt any transmission. Thinking more about it.. and with your advice, I'll find a reputable local shop that has experience working on these and hopefully have some peace of mind. Thanks for the info!

[STiPWRD]

I recently rebuilt my 02 wrx trans using this link as a guide:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/87305-easy-transmission-front-seal-replacement/

I took this chance to replace all the bearings on the input shaft as well as the input shaft seal, two trans axel seals and the selector seal. Once you crack the two case halves open, the input shaft, lower main shaft, and open diff (which you'd replace with an LSD) lift right out. I brought my iput shaft to a local subaru performance shop (Andrewtech) to replace my bearings - this cost $200. 8 years ago, this same shop installed my PPG gears. Then I put everything back together. My trans had 150k miles on it.

[RM1SepEx]

My local Subaru shop installed my Quaife and checked everything, replace output bearings and seals for low$ only 2 hrs or so labor with the transaxle out of the car

[Scargo]

It's been years, but I've rebuilt trannys and diffs in my garage. Mostly, you need a dial indicator to set preload. I would not recommend tackling it if say, you have never successfully been into an engine or aren't comfortable working on something with a lot of pieces. A plus is if you like doing mechanical puzzles. Technically, it's more challenging, but it's not much worse than a lawnmower engine overhaul.

[metros]

Love your exhaust work. I'm thinking of doing a center exit exhaust in the mesh above the trans. That would mean there would be very little bends to the exhaust system as a whole. The 'downpipe' would be more of a straight pipe with possibly a very slight downward slope.

These are just thoughts as I don't have a kit in front of me to look at for spacing. But that would help keep heat off the transmission/fluid as well because the heat would be above it.

[metalmaker12]

Anything is possable. Your idea is another idea I am plaining. I am putting a v band in so I can make more ideas that myself and others might want. I will post some more when I get to cutting and welding the v band in. Come to find out the ri dmv wants me to at least add an exhaust to lesson the sound a tad, so I am going to just make a section v band on that dumps to the ground for now, and than put the center exit back on later.

[metalmaker12]

Trying to get plates in say a month

[metalmaker12]

Flap wheel 60 grit sand/grind aluminum, epoxy primed and rolled on herculiner bedliner258582585925860 25857

new 330mm momo wheel and hub. I modded hub to work with clock spring and return blinkers. its a lot smaller than the oem momo
2586125862

The two different 818 exhaust hot off the bench
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Some final carpet work on firewall
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[Erik W. Treves]

looking good! I painted my radiator for silver and I regret it because it allows the front triangle bracing (black) to contrast against the silver...Black will make it disappear! I WILL be spraying mine black!