View Full Version : Transmission conversion instructions
Samiam1017
07-08-2013, 12:35 PM
I'm sure I've seen this on here but all I can find is Erik's LSD how too. Am I missing it somewere or does it not even exist yet? Also pics of the parts that come with the conversion. Thx Sam
Samiam1017
07-09-2013, 03:06 PM
Can anybody tell me what exactly gets removed? Center diff ,transfer gears, tail shaft cover.
Frank818
07-09-2013, 03:46 PM
This thread doesn't answer your question?
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?9909-THE-Transmission-Thread-2-0-Now-with-Pictures
Bob_n_Cincy
07-09-2013, 04:04 PM
Are you asking about the LSD conversion or the 4wd to 2wd drive conversion?
For 2wd:
This is what I think you do. (Erik's Photos)
Remove tail housing of trans.
Remove nut form lower shaft.
19601
19602
19603
Remove spline and washers that are closest to nut.
Install FFR locking collar (looks like a 2" socket)
reinstall nut.
reinstall housing with guts (center dif) removed.
19604
I believe FFR supplies the locking collar and flat cover.
Does this help?
Frank818
07-09-2013, 04:18 PM
I would also believe FFR would have that in their build guide (which is not complete yet). Am I correct?
wleehendrick
07-09-2013, 04:54 PM
I would also believe FFR would have that in their build guide (which is not complete yet). Am I correct?
I also recall reading that Eric has some issues (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?10507-And-it-begins-quot-The-Flash-quot-Build-Thread&p=106350&viewfull=1#post106350)keeping the drivetrain from spinning:
"after that picked up the motor and got it into position... I could not get enough leverage to pull the nut off the back of the tranny, although I proved in fact my LSD is working...lol... so I had some extra inner CV's and some bent control arms and welded up some breaker bars to hold both sides of the LSD using the frame as my back stop."
I assume this could simply be addressed by waiting to perform this step until the driveshafts and wheels are on the car and it's on the ground?
metalmaker12
07-09-2013, 05:12 PM
There is also the outer plate and I think some other portion internally for the kit, Erik or Wayne would know for sure, I will in a week
freds
07-09-2013, 05:41 PM
I also recall reading that Eric has some issues (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?10507-And-it-begins-quot-The-Flash-quot-Build-Thread&p=106350&viewfull=1#post106350)keeping the drivetrain from spinning:
"after that picked up the motor and got it into position... I could not get enough leverage to pull the nut off the back of the tranny, although I proved in fact my LSD is working...lol... so I had some extra inner CV's and some bent control arms and welded up some breaker bars to hold both sides of the LSD using the frame as my back stop."
I assume this could simply be addressed by waiting to perform this step until the driveshafts and wheels are on the car and it's on the ground?
Since the spline being removed is directly behind the nut I reasoned there is no downside to holding that spline with a decent sized pipe (Stilson) wrench while loosening the nut. I tapped out the retaining dimples in the end of the nut with a hammer and pin punch before loosening it. No problem!
I preferred working against the spline to putting the torque through the pinion and ring gear by holding the output splines of the diff. Tightening it you can put a pipe wrench on the FFR supplied coupling itself, and cleaning up any marring from the wrench.
No big deal, the nut wasn't all that tight, or difficult to remove.
wleehendrick
07-09-2013, 05:55 PM
No big deal, the nut wasn't all that tight, or difficult to remove.
Good to know... thanks!
Samiam1017
07-09-2013, 08:23 PM
Thanks guys bob answered my question. I knew I seen somewhere. But I couldn't find it when I searched the threads I thought it might be in. Maybe it could be rewritten in its own thread and moved to the trans sticky.
riptide motorsport
07-09-2013, 08:37 PM
cool stuff, can't wait.
THE ITALIAN
09-16-2013, 07:16 PM
I am still waiting to see how many burn 3rd gear with the new configuration on the transmission. Maybe something about this ???"
I don't think the 6 speed is the answer, although maybe stronger. I'll say it again; Does anyone think that this 5 speed, by eliminating the rear drive (as it was designed) will have a long term effect on the durability of the transmission.
I know, it is a lighter car, BUT it was designed for 4 wheels. I am not the one to answer this, but if this trans was designed to have torque on both the front & rear wheels, what is happening when we take away that torque at the tail shaft?
I've seen this engine in sand rails, but the configure is different (the motor is behind the axel) and most often is the transmission ( a high end trans)
RM1SepEx
09-16-2013, 07:42 PM
you are removing EVERYTHING in the final compartment... the gear, layshaft, center diff, etc
so when you install the collar the trans can't tell that tailshaft exists, it doesn't.
So we are increasing the load on the differential and axles and CVs.... but NOT the transmission, we are just attempting to transfer the power through 2 wheels instead of 4
Only time will tell is we are creating a reliability problem. I expect that the race cars will answer the question as we just won't be able to abuse it enough on the street to break it. You can only apply as much torque as the weakest link... That will be traction. In real world use you only can apply the HP required can't do more even if you have it (can't apply torque to a spinning nut, can you?)
Xusia
09-16-2013, 10:19 PM
This has been debated to death. The fact is we don't know. I'm in the camp/school of thought that thinks the combination of reduced weight and having only 2 wheels of traction will mean reduced load on the transmission; because the wheels will be more apt to spin as opposed to providing resistance, and thereby reducing the "shock loading" on the transmission.
CHOTIS BILL
09-17-2013, 08:06 AM
The problem of removing the rear nut while doing the 4 wheel to 2 wheel conversions is a lot like changing gears in a Hewland gear box. With the Hewland you put the trans in two gears at the same time by pushing in or pulling out on the first shift rail and then on the third shift rail. You can’t do this with two adjacent rails because of a lockout device between adjacent rails. This may not work with this trans but is very simple to do if it will.
Bill Lomenick