longislandwrx/Insert Cool Nickname Here Build Thread

[longislandwrx]

I figured it was time to set this up.

After selling my RX7 and 500hp V8 Vega several years back I figured it was time for a new project car. I was looking for something to take to the track and zip around the parkway on nice days. When I stumbled upon the 818 about a year and a half ago. I was sold.

I preordered an 818R and got the date of August 17th.

I've gone to non donor build... I didn't have the heart to chop up the beast.

Here's my 818 build spec sheet: subject to change, these are notes mostly.

Engine

JDM v7 2.0L block, complete gasket set, Sti oil pump, Sti oil pan, new timing belt and water pump
Perrin equal length header thermal coated
Cobb CAST uppipe thermal coated
VF48 turbo ported by Six Star Speed with billet compressor wheel and upgraded bearings and TurboSmart wastegate actuator
Cobb BCS
Grimmspeed Y pipe kit
Grimmspeed TMIC with thermal dispersant coating
Grimmspeed ported throttle body
Grimmspeed ported intake manifold
Motive composite TGV deletes
Deatschwerks Injectors
Radium Fuel Rails
Radium Surge Tank w/ integrated fpr
2x Deatschwerks DW300 fuel pump
custom downpipe
Greddy titanium muffler?
Upgraded Motor Mounts (solid)?
Cobb lightweight pulley
Cobb SF intake
Cobb Accessport

Gimmick/Fuku turbo inlet/MAF tube


Suspension / Drivetrain

Exedy Stage 1 Clutch
ACT Streetlite Flywheel
Group N mount
Quaife differential

Aluminum Front LCAs
MSI trailing arms
MSI adjustable lateral links
Turn in Concepts enthusiast bushings
Whiteline alignment lock kit.
Baer bump steer correction kit

Sparco steering wheel
NRG short hub
NRG 2.8 quick release


lightweight battery

Brakes

Wilwood Front/Rear brake kit*

Cooling

OEM STI radiator
OEM STI cooling fans
Breeze automotive coolant pipe kit
Version 2 FFR side pipes

Cosmetic


carbon fiber lip
carbon fiber diffuser
carbon fiber skirts
carbon fiber bumper canards
flush mount hood pins
Gram Light wheels
Bridgestone RE-11R tires
custom exhaust routing
Omori EGT and Boost gauges
Cobb aluminum battery bracket
Sparco/status ring seat(s)?


That's about it for now. I have prepped a few parts and will continue to make more blog posts as I begin to prep parts.




Stay Tuned

[longislandwrx]

Here are my blog posts on donor part prep and getting parts together:

more to come soon. just been busy with the new baby.

Cleaning up Aluminum Lateral Links & New Bushings
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1060-Cleaning-up-Aluminum-Lateral-Links-amp-New-Bushings

Simplifying the EJ parts 1 and 2
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1061-Simplifying-the-EJ-Part-1
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1062-Simplifying-the-EJ-Part-2

Ported WRX Throttle Body Final Assembly
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?955-Ported-WRX-Throttle-Body-Final-Assembly

Stockpiling Parts
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?946-Stockpiling-Parts

My Turbo Arrives!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/entry.php?1071-It-s-Turbo-Time!

[longislandwrx]

reserved 2

[longislandwrx]

reserved 3

[longislandwrx]

reserved 4

[longislandwrx]

reserved 5

[Frank818]

So you're aiming for what power output?

Also, has nothing to do with 818, but in order to get to the point of building one, some need to sell cars. I was wondering how you sold you cars years back? On a website, someone you know, put a card FOR SALE on the car windows, etc...

[longislandwrx]

I would like to put down 300-330 WHP. Then perhaps tune for e85 down the road. I'm going to get the weight down pretty damn low too. Phase 2 is a build bottom end and heads. The RX7 sold on a forum, the Vega was listed on a forum too but I think ultimately the buyer saw it on Craigslist.

[Frank818]

I want the same output too. Will keep this list as an example. No E85 around here though (Canada). Well, not that I am aware of.

Yeah Craiglist, you've got that big place to sell. I wonder if a Canadian-spec car can be easily sold on Craiglist, or maybe we're not allowed to sell there anyway. I'll check.

Oh, it exists for Canada. Cool.

[longislandwrx]

My turbo is here. And a lot of other cool stuff should be here in the next week or two. My kit will be ready by the 31st so there's plenty to do!

21200

[longislandwrx]

Spoke to Nate, the frame is sitting on the dock waiting for the powdercoater to pick it up. He told me to call back next Wednesday to see if it will be ready for pickup next Saturday.

Wasn't going to be able to pick it up this Saturday anyway so no big deal. Nate said he'd send a picture of the frame, pre-coating.

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Frame came back from powder coating yesterday but they didn't think they'd have enough time to put it together for a Saturday pickup. Looks like next Saturday it is. That makes it about a month after initially promised which isn't bad at all considering the unknowns and everything that has changed since then. Very excited.

[Aloha818]

Spoke to Nate, the frame is sitting on the dock waiting for the powdercoater to pick it up. He told me to call back next Wednesday to see if it will be ready for pickup next Saturday.

Wasn't going to be able to pick it up this Saturday anyway so no big deal. Nate said he'd send a picture of the frame, pre-coating.

21196211972119821199


Frame came back from powder coating yesterday but they didn't think they'd have enough time to put it together for a Saturday pickup. Looks like next Saturday it is. That makes it about a month after initially promised which isn't bad at all considering the unknowns and everything that has changed since then. Very excited.

Have you picked it up yet?

[longislandwrx]

Not yet! It is ready though as of last week. I am hoping to take a day off next week or next Saturday. I am chomping at the bit here and can't wait to get started.

Arranging child care has become the Issue. My wife has been working Saturday mornings and I am watching the kids. By the time she's home I couldn't make it to MA in time before they close.

In the meantime I've been getting more parts ready, studying the manual, and making a comprehensive list of parts I still need to buy.

[C.Plavan]

That's funny, those are the same pictures he sent me of my chassis.......

Just kidding!!!! haha My Oct 5th date is coming quick- I was told to schedule Stewart, which I did..... but its been quiet....

[longislandwrx]

Well it looks like Saturday is the day, Change of plans though, I am renting a u-haul vehicle trailer so I will let everyone know how that goes.

I am cutting several 2x4s to the proper width and I have about 20 ratcheting tie downs. I've seen several pictures of guys bringing Mk IVs on them so I'm not worried about it.

I'll post pictures of how I strap it. Looking forward to the mini open house and seeing the sema cars as well.

22183

[C.Plavan]

Jeff,

Do you know what chassis number you got? Mine will be back from the powder coaters today. Jason said he would find out my number.

[VD2021]

Looking forward to the mini open house and seeing the sema cars as well. 22183

Next to College Football, what a way to spend your Saturday:cool:. Congrats in advance.

Looking forward to your build.

[longislandwrx]

Jeff,

Do you know what chassis number you got? Mine will be back from the powder coaters today. Jason said he would find out my number.

I don't.. its on the top shelf and he couldn't read it. I'll let you know Saturday.

[longislandwrx]

Shift linkage I am going to try and emulate:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=37668170&postcount=1023

[fateo66]

Is that all the linkage? It seems that would only shift side to side. How does it pull into each gear?

[Xusia]

Shift linkage I am going to try and emulate:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=37668170&postcount=1023

Please let us know how that works out.

[longislandwrx]

In the third picture you can see the two threaded rods, the top on that's hanging down rotates the shaft, the lower one controls the front to back motion.

I like that it keeps everything tight to the transmission and in the same plane.

[fateo66]

What lower one are you talking about? I still only see how it rotates. When the single male rod end is pulled or pushed it rotates the triangle which pulls down or pushes up on the male/female set which rotates the linkage.

I do fully agree with you on bow sweet and compact it is but I only see half the operation... what am I missing?

[Mechie3]

I couldn't see it either except maybe the rod on the bracket directly mounted to the trans rod is the push pull?

[longislandwrx]

If I'm understanding it correctly pull/push the blue, selector rotates. pull red, selector engages gear.

22309

Picked up my 818 today! Chassis is number 35. More details to come tomorrow. I've been driving all day and i'm shot.

[metalmaker12]

I couldn't see it either except maybe the rod on the bracket directly mounted to the trans rod is the push pull?

Craig, guys their is one cable that pushes and pulls for up and down and the other one twist the tranny rod for gear selection. It is working well for me in dry dock, by next week or so I should be running to test it out in motion

[longislandwrx]

Picking up the Kit!

Well I got the trailer home and stared at it for a while. I wanted a way that two people could get it off the trailer so I got 2 2x8s and bolted them to the trailer and used 2x4s to make support ribs. I assembled it with only a few screws so if I needed to adjust when I got to FFR I could.

22313

Dave in shipping said it was one of the better setups he had seen.

they dropped the chassis right on the trailer and I took the last cross beam out and added another 2x4 under the rear section (which is higher than the rest of the frame)

4 ratcheting straps were plenty, this thing is so light :)

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got some free donuts and coffee and we were on our way back. I saw the RHD SEMA car, the dismantled street car, and the R which looks to have had some minor contact at it's last track day.

22318
First 818 on a boat?

When I got it home, I just took the body off, unbolted the skids from the trailers, and me and my 140 lb buddy slid it right down into the garage. It was a thing of beauty.


Total cost to pick up the chassis:
$70 Trailer Rental
$14 Tolls
$100 gas
$115 Ferry Ride Back

Under $300 and Stewart wanted almost $1200. 100% worth it to save $900.

Today I'll take inventory and get organized.

[wallace18]

Looks like you had a good setup for sure. If you don't mind me asking where did you get a ferry to and from?

[RM1SepEx]

Long Island NY of course....

[metalmaker12]

Congrats

[Wayne Presley]

Shift linkage I am going to try and emulate:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=37668170&postcount=1023

Why are you wanting to re do the cable just to get the cable 90° different?

[longislandwrx]

Looks like you had a good setup for sure. If you don't mind me asking where did you get a ferry to and from?

From New London, CT to Orient Point on Long Island. Leaving early, there's no traffic getting through the city, so its no big deal, But come afternoon, especially on a Saturday it can be terrible, didn't want to have to deal with that with a trailer. Taking the ferry is also a nice break, you can have a sit down lunch and still not waste any time. It's expensive but very much worth it in my opinion.


Why are you wanting to re do the cable just to get the cable 90° different?

I like the look of it, seems like it would create some more room for the exhaust system or whatever will go back there.

Is it a must have? No, but it will be a fun engineering project.

[longislandwrx]

22357

Step 1, install plastic caps.

[Mechie3]

Step 1 made me laugh. It's so quick and easy and you feel like you actually did something that you can check off.

[AZPete]

Longislandwrx, you're younger than I thought from your previous posts.

[longislandwrx]

She's 3 and already smarter than I am.

[wleehendrick]

Congrats! Mine's due this Sat.



22318
First 818 on a boat?


Nope, I assume that would be Honolulu 818!

[longislandwrx]

Congrats! Mine's due this Sat.
Nope, I assume that would be Honolulu 818!

Nice! Good call. First R on a boat then!

[FFR-ADV]

Congratulati!ons

[longislandwrx]

The mounts are not perfect, .865 to about .885, the control arm is thinner (.820) so the brackets must squeeze together when you tighten them, mounting on top though I think you'd want them pretty parallel. A .875 or .885 would probably pretty darn close to perfect.

I assembled the shocks tonight as well, put the shocks in the freezer for 20 minutes and baked the threaded piece for 5 minutes at 350 and they slid right on. no damage to the paint. Took about 40 minutes to do two, including the heating and cooling. Will do the rears tomorrow. I did notice that my parts sheet said 500lb springs and I was given 350s. I'll call FFR about that tomorrow to see what is wrong.

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[RM1SepEx]

the S uses 350 in the front and 275 in the rear... your shocks are supposed to be red too for an "R"

[longislandwrx]

You are correct, I spoke to Joe and He is sending me 4 Red shocks, 4 Springs in the proper R rates, and 2 new collars as there's no way these are coming off.

Joe was super helpful, My kit was also missing two hose clamps which will be sent out as well. I still have to QC three more boxes but for the most part everything has been there.

I was really surprised at the quality and everything that's provided. From wires to led bulbs everything looks top notch. I am very impressed.

My backorder list is pretty short, Windscreen, door cards, a few brackets, and a few more little things.

I also heard back from Jay about the spacers:

Jeff,
I misunderstood Jim when he said he redesigned the brackets on the frame, the only thing he changed were the positioning of the holes and support gussets not where the brackets actually are.
So you will need to make 7/8” spacers for the UCAs. 7/8” spacers for the LCA inners & 11/16” spacers for the LCA outers to allow the mounts to sit on top of the brackets.
Thanks again.

Jay Kravitz
Technical Sales & Support
Factory Five Racing, Inc.

Seems pretty close, I'm going to make some stainless spacers and take some measurements.



ALSO checked the ship list, the springs mentioned are 500lb front, 300lb rear in case anyone was wondering.

[longislandwrx]

Guess what day it is, guess what day, it, is.

Hey Julie! Guess what day it is!!

It's firewall day.



22425

I got more clecos and i'm ready to rivet. Still on the fence about doing the triangle mod but I guess i'll make the call tonight.


Started tonight, The pieces need trimming to get a good fit, a lot of the welds keep the panels from sitting flat. I have to take a couple to work tomorrow to shear them. Then I can figure out the triangle.

22434

Getting the first piece in was the hardest part, the manual shows them riveting it on all sides then the next piece on top of that. I'd rather have just one rivet, so you have to install several panels at once, or do some panel sliding to drill them in the same spots

I'd say the fitment on the panels is about a 8/10


I got about halfway done. I decided to move the triangle forward but instead of trimming the right side I am going to overlap it.

I think that will give a much larger surface area for silicone which I think is why FFR did it in the first place. It may not be as pretty as Zach's but it may be a little stronger.

Here's how far I got last night, I'll finish today.

22503225042250522506

[longislandwrx]

LCA R height riser blocks.

Using round tube spacers to get the R's rear mount up to the right height might not be the most stable. I thought about making a set of 4 spacer blocks, one 7/8 high, the other 11/16 one hole of each that could be threaded or bolted, and the other would accept the LCA mount. I don't have the measurements in front of me but this is just the first thing that came to mind.

22452

[Mechie3]

Getting the first piece in was the hardest part, the manual shows them riveting it on all sides then the next piece on top of that. I'd rather have just one rivet, so you have to install several panels at once, or do some panel sliding to drill them in the same spots


I ran into the same thing. Once I drilled holes only to place a panel 2 panels later and see it overlapped but not enough to use the holes I already made so I had to adapt. I ended up placing one panel then holding up the next two before I drilled anything from then on.

[C.Plavan]

LCA R height riser blocks.

Using round tube spacers to get the R's rear mount up to the right height might not be the most stable. I thought about making a set of 4 spacer blocks, one 7/8 high, the other 11/16 one hole of each that could be threaded or bolted, and the other would accept the LCA mount. I don't have the measurements in front of me but this is just the first thing that came to mind.

22452
I'm scratching my head as to why something like this is not included on the R's...... Almost makes me want to run the S height instead of stacks of washers...

[longislandwrx]

I imagine many on here would say, it's a kit, they cant take everything into account!

I'm with you... all that effort to have double mounts on every suspension take off point and then say, make your own spacer? Weird.

[Mechie3]

I think a lot of has to do with how that part would be made. Everything I've seen has been made from sheet metal, plate, or other non machined (ie: milled, turned) parts. Milling is a bit more expensive that laser cutting a bunch of flat brackets and bending them. They also don't have many (any?) machined/block aluminum parts. Everything aluminum is made from sheet. It keeps costs down. They should have provided at least a laser cut steel piece to use as a spacer (did they?).

[longislandwrx]

nope, nor to go between the upper control arm mounts.

here's another crude sketch, again not to scale.

22461

[C.Plavan]

I'll help with the funding if you decide to make those. I'm sure a lot of people will eventually need them.

Also- Have you counted the axle spines yet? I'm wondering if they are 29/27 or 29/25 or 29/29...lol

[C.Plavan]

I went ahead and busted out my digital caliper and took a ton of measurements of my new Aluminum Control Arms. I went ahead and made a CAD file. Its hard get everything right when you don't have the Chassis here yet. 7/8" Inner Spacer Block and 11/16" Outer Spacer Block. These will only be used on the Aluminum LCA's. Nothing fancy, but will be a ton better than WASHERS! :) I'm going to wait before trying to design the upper control arm spacer. I need to be looking at it.

Outer
http://i.imgur.com/lIoK1hZl.jpg (http://imgur.com/lIoK1hZ)

Inner
http://i.imgur.com/XsNNsOXl.jpg (http://imgur.com/XsNNsOX)

[fateo66]

Here is a few more pics of a nice shifter setup, what do you think?

http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y399/turbotime17/IMG_7070_zps685583b9.jpg

http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y399/turbotime17/IMG_7078_zpsdd48418c.jpg

http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y399/turbotime17/IMG_7074_zps5d18ea48.jpg

[Xusia]

Looks good. Where did you find it?

[longislandwrx]

Chad that looks good. I like the idea of having it slotted, when I get mine mocked up and mounted i'll see if it needs it or not, I also like the idea of having two holes though for additional strength and to keep it from rotating.

Zach very cool. Is that from a tr-42? I've seen a few nice setups but no one seems to sell them. I think looking what others have done I can come up with something that really works for the 818.

[Samiam1017]

Ya that's from a build they'd on another site. Cool car to bad it's not manufactured anymore.

[Samiam1017]

Just talked to the owner of that tr-42 He fabricated all the shifter parts Very nice work.

[C.Plavan]

I have to say my LCA mount holes are different than yours. I have chassis #44. Check it out:
http://i.imgur.com/cbS4GvXl.jpg (http://imgur.com/cbS4GvX)

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I have to say my LCA mount holes are different than yours. I have chassis #44. Check it out:
http://i.imgur.com/cbS4GvXl.jpg (http://imgur.com/cbS4GvX)

Hi Chad
The wagons are on 10 mm (per side) narrower than the sedans. The original spacing was 20mm per side. Your chassis has this corrected. I think you will see the same thing on the front LCA mounting holes.

It should also have the correction so you don't need to grind the gusset on the top mount if you were running street ground clearance.

Also, I don't think your 7/8 and 11/16 numbers are correct. It should be more like 7/8 and 7/16.
Bob

[C.Plavan]

Well I sure hope they are 11/16- that is what Factory five said above. I just placed a CNC order for that measurement..... I will be super disappointed, and out of cash.

[longislandwrx]

The height measurement didn't change, they just changed the width as well as the gusset so it didn't need to be trimmed for under mounting which doesn't apply to us. Your spacers should be perfect.

Jay Kravitz confirmed in a previous email that the height should not have changed. I can get you a measurement tonight, if you are still concerned, It would probably make me feel better too.


If they are slightly tall it wont be the end of the world, a quick trip on the sanding wheel. The thickness of the right riser should be the thickness of left riser minus the thickness of the bracket minus the thickness of the LCA mount.

assuming a metal thickness of a true 1/8 that would make the spacer 10/16, If its a little thinner 11/16 would be perfect.

22558

[Mechie3]

That shifter is the opposite of the other one we saw for a TR42. Probably has to do with teh direction the shifter is mounted (cables forward vs cables backwards) or what direction the small triangle moves. I prefer the other one for how it doesn't sit higher above the trans, but this one is easier to understand.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

The height measurement didn't change, they just changed the width as well as the gusset so it didn't need to be trimmed for under mounting which doesn't apply to us. Your spacers should be perfect.

Jay Kravitz confirmed in a previous email that the height should not have changed. I can get you a measurement tonight, if you are still concerned, It would probably make me feel better too.


If they are slightly tall it wont be the end of the world, a quick trip on the sanding wheel. The thickness of the right riser should be the thickness of left riser minus the thickness of the bracket minus the thickness of the LCA mount.

assuming a metal thickness of a true 1/8 that would make the spacer 10/16, If its a little thinner 11/16 would be perfect.

22558

I'll measure the 2 metal thickness tonight. I'm pretty sure the 2 of them together is bigger than a 1/4".
Bob22570

[longislandwrx]

It might just be. In that case he may have to grind it down a smidge, not the end of the world. I wonder where FFR was getting it's numbers from. Maybe they took into account flipping the mount as it would no longer need to have the flat side up against the bottom. I'm going to mock it up tonight and try it flipped both ways.

[C.Plavan]

I'm thinking they are taking into account the flipping/swaping the bushing. The "S" bend goes on the bottom.

[longislandwrx]

You are right I was doing it in my head, I just looked at it again, The S on the bottom will definitely give the most height.

22572

Mechie's looks like about 1/4

[C.Plavan]

Just found out we need to grind, grind, grind... alot... LCA will not rotate- It hits the frame "R" Height on the front.......

http://i.imgur.com/XAXMl0Xl.jpg (http://imgur.com/XAXMl0X)

http://i.imgur.com/UrZgyhWl.jpg (http://imgur.com/UrZgyhW)

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Just found out we need to grind, grind, grind... alot... LCA will not rotate- It hits the frame "R" Height on the front.......

http://i.imgur.com/XAXMl0Xl.jpg (http://imgur.com/XAXMl0X)

http://i.imgur.com/UrZgyhWl.jpg (http://imgur.com/UrZgyhW)

During high G cornering there is a lot of force pushing toward the frame, so just grinding for clearance isn't enough. I wonder if they see this on the blue & white car.
Bob

[longislandwrx]

Well I haven't fired up my bench grinder in months. :cool: time to make it rain! (sparks)

[mindinclouds]

Well I haven't fired up my bench grinder in months. :cool: time to make it rain! (sparks)

If you are talking about a bench grinder with an abrasive grinding wheel... please research the dangers of grinding aluminum on that type of wheel before doing so.
It can cause a composite grinding wheel to explode while turning at high speed. Not a good day...

[longislandwrx]

Good advice, although I was just making a joke.

Doing it on the grinder would just gum it all up anyway.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I'll measure the 2 metal thickness tonight. I'm pretty sure the 2 of them together is bigger than a 1/4".
Bob22570

I measured the thickness of steel and alum. together and got 0.475"

So if you trying to raise the LCA 7/8" you need a 7/8"(0.875) tall spacer and a 0.400 short spacer.

Bob

[longislandwrx]

Thanks Bob, that is MUCH thicker than I imagined!

My firewall is all laid out and just needs riveting. Pretty happy with the fitment of the modified panel. I am going to put a small piece of rigid aluminum L stock behind the triangle panel to keep it from flexing in the middle.

I took a break from riveting and assembled the new shocks and built the rear suspension parts.

2259222593

[C.Plavan]

FYI- Dan just gave me these numbers. Jim recalculated them. Now I hope I can cancel my CNC order.

"You will need to make 13/16” spacers for the top, and then you will need 2 different ones for the bottom. The top of the bottom mount will need a 1” spacer, and the bottom of the bottom mount will need a 9/16” spacer. There is lower control arm mounts that you can buy from Subaru Racing shops that already have the lower geometry built in if you do not want to use the spacers."

[Bob_n_Cincy]

FYI- Dan just gave me these numbers. Jim recalculated them. Now I hope I can cancer my CNC order.

"You will need to make 13/16” spacers for the top, and then you will need 2 different ones for the bottom. The top of the bottom mount will need a 1” spacer, and the bottom of the bottom mount will need a 9/16” spacer. There is lower control arm mounts that you can buy from Subaru Racing shops that already have the lower geometry built in if you do not want to use the spacers."

Chad
This makes sense now.
Bob

[longislandwrx]

Ok that kind of makes sense,

The top gets the 13/16 sandwiched between the two mounting tabs

I think he switched the last two though. no way the upper lower mount would get a larger spacer.

I was ready to test fit last night but the baby fell asleep so I couldn't grind the bolt down to get it to fit.

Jeff

[longislandwrx]

I measured my frame mount thickness at .183, and the lca mount at .280, pretty close to Bobs(.463 vs .475)

That would make my second riser .537 so 9/16 (.5625) should be pretty close.

The firewall is also finished, minus the angle aluminum to take the flex out. I was able to track down a 45 degree drill, which let me get most of the holes that I drilled in the aluminum too close to the frame pieces.


22665226662266722668

[longislandwrx]

Well I moved on to the cockpit sheetmetal knowing that I would have to make some changes due to the R's tubing, I didn't expect to be missing pieces though.

I didn't receive part 80449 or 80461, not sure what the number is, the manual says both. Either way it would have to be modified to fit the R

I have to mount the side of the body on to see if its feasible to use the sill trim or just cut the fiberglass and aluminum down to the lower square bar.

227472274822749


Spoke to Dan, the S part would not fit and therefore not included, it would have been nice to have it to use as a pattern at least. He is going to try and send me some pictures from the R so I can see what they did. He said they may make a part for it eventually but it would be months away. If I can come up with something that works, I'll share it with the other R guys.

[longislandwrx]

Started mocking it up last night. I have to pick up some 1/32 taskboard to finalize my measurements, but i'm happy with the design.

Need to mark up flanges, then i'll have my metal guy cut it out of aluminum.

227732277422775

A little pink for under the hood. I'll need to re bend it a little but I should be able to do it with a heat gun without cracking the powdercoat.

22776

[longislandwrx]

Well I was able to work on the car for a few hours Sunday, ran over to ACE to get more new bolts, bolted together the front and rear suspension minus the knuckles which still need to be cleaned up. I spent about $70 on all grade 8 or higher bolts but really shouldn't have to use any used hardware on the chassis. Compared to buying a tumbler and wire brushing I thought it was money well spent.


22954


22955
used epoxy coating on the suspension pieces (making the chassis do double duty as a drying rack)


22956

One of these spacers fought me for an hour, file, test, too tight, file, test still too tight. It must have been way out of round. finally I just tapped it in with a mallet. GRRR.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

One of these spacers fought me for an hour, file, test, too tight, file, test still too tight. It must have been way out of round. finally I just tapped it in with a mallet. GRRR.

Jeff
I had a problem like that. The ID of one spacer was to small. After drilling and filing it finally fit.
Turns out I was modifying one of the spacers for mounting the steering rack that was only 7/16 ID. All the suspension spacers are 1/2" ID.
Just a heads up for future builders.
My frame isn't painted yet, The length (thickness) of all my spacers was good.
Bob

[longislandwrx]

Unboxed the fuel pump components yesterday, I was originally going to run a 255 Walbro but with a possible E85 tune down the road I didn't want to have to take the car apart right away to change out the pump.

I ordered a 320 LPH pump from Deatschwerks. It is rated for e85 and supposed to be a little quieter as well. I looked at the Aeromotive 340 stealth but they had so much doom and gloom on their website and recommended a 10 hr filter change for e85 so i'll just stick with DW for now.

It also means I don't have to touch the donor tank as new wiring is included.

[longislandwrx]

I finished my fuel system today and thought I'd share some pointers. I'll cross post this in the fuel system thread.

23140

0. Cut 3/16 off the bottom tank mounting flanges before you start, it will make the tank so much more maneuverable.

23137

1. Don't install the breather first. The instructions say to do it first but you need the hole to look through to make sure your sock is sitting flat in the baffle area.

2. The hose clamp that holds the pump was too big to fit through the hole, It may have been the diameter of my aftermarket fuel pump but I'm pretty sure it was the same size as stock. To get around it you can either bend the metal around the hole or get a lower profile hose clamp.

3. None of the clips on the electrical connectors actually clip onto the sockets, they just slide off, I used a zip tie to clamp it on to the connector.

2313823139

4. Make sure you have the fill hose on before you drill your holes to mount the tank, I bolted the bottom down only to find out it was a hair too tight and wouldn't slip on. I had to move it 1/8th

5. I just used a 9v battery to check the connections once it was buttoned up. easier than getting a battery charger and leads.


anyone know why we got so much fuel fill hose?

[RM1SepEx]

anyone know why we got so much fuel fill hose?

the first fill tube required more hose, when you get the correct one shorter pieces are needed on each end.

I had all of those issues and solved them the same way!

[C.Plavan]

Have you done the Master Cylinder yet? Man- Kinda a pain- Clearance for nuts/bolts is an issue on the pedal cluster (after you drill). I'm going to have to grind down one side of a nut big time. They make it seem so easy in the manual.... But they don't address what most people are going to run in to.

[Mechie3]

We all had that issue. Grind half a bolt head and insert the bolt inside to outside or cut a hole in the steering column. I did the latter.

[Wayne Presley]

We all had that issue. Grind half a bolt head and insert the bolt inside to outside or cut a hole in the steering column. I did the latter.

I did the prior

[C.Plavan]

Sorry for the Hijack Jeff-
Do you think I'm OK with M6 10.9 hardware instead? I'm a little unsure- But I could use M8 10.9 and grind.

[Wayne Presley]

Sorry for the Hijack Jeff-
Do you think I'm OK with M6 10.9 hardware instead? I'm a little unsure- But I could use M8 10.9 and grind.

M6 is too small

[RM1SepEx]

I used 1/4 -20 grade 8 socket head cap screw with a washer ground flat on one side cockpit to front (nut on outside)

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I used 5/16 grade 8 socket head bolts from the inside out.
I had to grind just a bit on the pedal box bracket so the head would sit flush.
2 mc bolts were 1.5" other 3 were 1"
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23128&d=1383534380

[longislandwrx]

I have not done it yet but appreciate all the suggestions. I thought about using a socket head like Bob suggested. Seems like less grinding and a lot easier to get an Allen key in there than an open end wrench.

[Erik W. Treves]

I think on my next one I will probably weld the heads in place and put nuts on the inside...this way if you ever need to change the master, you don't need two people. Once it's all together you not going to be able to touch both pieces at the same time

[longislandwrx]

I'll get the rest of the pictures up here soon but step one to fitting the shifter lower is to trim the width of the base down to 5.25 to allow it to fit between the aluminum.

I used a thin sawzall blade by hand and cleaned it up with a file. Still plenty strong at all corners.

23286


Then add one of these:

23287

http://www.twmperformance.com/shortshifters/scionshortshifters/sciontcshortshifters.htm

on sale shipped for $170. Used code THANKSTWM

The shifter has a 2.5" height reduction, and modified pivot to reduce throw.

Combined with the custom drop mounting, the overall setup lowers the knob about 6 inches from FFRs setup and reduces the throw by about 35%

[Wayne Presley]

I think if you reduce the arm by 5.25", you will find that is way more than a 35% reduction in throw and the feel will be less than optimum...:confused:

[longislandwrx]

No the arm is only 2.5" shorter, my base is mounted 2.5" below the bottom of the rails. Adding the thickness of the rails, the overall is lowered 6" from FFRs config.

I edited the original post for clarity, Ill get the rest of the pictures up and It will all be obvious.

[metalmaker12]

I think on my next one I will probably weld the heads in place and put nuts on the inside...this way if you ever need to change the master, you don't need two people. Once it's all together you not going to be able to touch both pieces at the same time

Agreed!!

[longislandwrx]

Installed. Getting the short throw lever installed is a pain, the spring clip holding the rod is in there so tight I needed to cut it off rather than prying as recommended.
The retainer clips are also a pain to get back on, but man what a difference. I'll be hooking the cables up tonight but I'm already impressed.

23362

The shifter is mounted below the rails with 4 1/4x4 grade 8 bolts and 2" nylon spacers. I bought some 1/2" spacers as well but as of now i'm happy with where it sits. when the seat is in I may go up or down a little.

The offset washer was first cemented into place so it would not rotate, then I lined up and drilled the mounting holes from the top and assembled everything. I was worried about wobble but it is Incredibly strong as it sits now.

23363

The difference in height is huge. I installed a shift knob that a friend had made me (not the one I am going to use) and the height has been reduced from approximately 12.5" to right around 7" off the rails.

What an improvement. I will also check tonight to make sure everything clears the FFR supplied cover, but I see no reason why it shouldn't.

[RM1SepEx]

there is no way that my wire bundle would fit underneath...

[longislandwrx]

there's more room than it looks. The rails are about 8" off the floor of the car, there's at least 4" underneath. 4x5 is a lot of room for wires.

[Santiago]

Oh, wow...I had to look at that second picture for a while before I saw how much room there is below the shifter. On first gloss, it looks like the shifter is sitting on the lower rails... But it's not, it's suspended below the upper rails, leaving all that room under the shifter base. Yes?

[longislandwrx]

Correct, tons of room under there for wiring. I'll post a profile picture tonight. I'll be installing the tunnel, cables, boot and the surround to see how it all fits.


I have the Cobb double adjustable short throw on my WRX it would just be too hard for me to get used to the ape hanger shifter setup.

[metalmaker12]

nice idea, makes me want to rethink it, but i like the shifter up high feel, just not the look, function over form for me.

[Mechie3]

Terrible, terrible, terrible idea.......






because now you make me want to undo everything I've already done. :p lol

[Frank818]

I like that. I am one of those who prefer short and FIRM throw rather than the long throw and super easy to engage that you don't even know whether you are in the gear or not.

But I will use K-Tuned's aluminum shifter, I don't know yet how low I can adjust/cut it, or even reduce the throw without cutting the rod.

[Mechie3]

The throw on the shifter isn't that long in stock form. It's just tall. Functionally it's right next to the wheel for easy shifts. Visually it looks like you'd be swining that thing 5 inches. It really only moves about 2" total for a 1-2 shift.

[longislandwrx]

Terrible, terrible, terrible idea.......
because now you make me want to undo everything I've already done. :p lol

Well it's an easy switch, unless you already cut into your tunnel aluminum. I was thinking of making an aluminum base for it to sit on but its already so stable.

23366



But I will use K-Tuned's aluminum shifter, I don't know yet how low I can adjust/cut it, or even reduce the throw without cutting the rod.


The k tuned is an amazing piece, this was done as an option to for those who don't want to spend the 600+ on the k tuned.

I wonder what kind of credit FFR will give you for declining the bracket, cables, shifter assembly and boot.

I'm $180 into it right now.

I've also got big plans for the other end where it attaches to the transmission.

[C.Plavan]

Looking good.

[Mechie3]

Well it's an easy switch, unless you already cut into your tunnel aluminum.

Tunnel aluminum? I drilled the holes on top, but those will be covered or utilized anyways. My bigger issue is I welded cross bars in place since I messed up the tunnel steel on top. No biggie there. Just drilling out the rivnuts and using a shoulder washer or welding up the holes and drilling smaller ones.

[RM1SepEx]

there's more room than it looks. The rails are about 8" off the floor of the car, there's at least 4" underneath. 4x5 is a lot of room for wires.

there is a LOT of wires... If I put the lighting down the side like Chris did... (metalmaker) I'd have room, I'm planning on bringing it up the center tunnel.

I cut the aluminum tunnel top off and made the sides permanently attached. I'm going to cut the length of the shifter arm, as Craig said the throw is fine, it is just too tall.

[longislandwrx]

Exactly, your holes may not be lined up, but what's a few more 1/4" holes though :D. I'm guessing you'll be carpeting over it anyway.

I may end up moving it forward or backward when I get my column/steering wheel/seats all buttoned up. I took some measurements and I should be close but you never know until it's all in there.

I'm assembling my radiator support now, going to do all the sheet metal on it as well. any reason why it can't be removed afterwards to maintain the space in the garage?

[wleehendrick]

But I will use K-Tuned's aluminum shifter, I don't know yet how low I can adjust/cut it, or even reduce the throw without cutting the rod.

I have Wayne's K-tuned shifter (http://k-tuned.3dcartstores.com/No-Cut-K-Swap-Shifter_p_285.html) kit already (note: he's modified it for shorter rear exit cables, and provided very nice new custom cables and a bracket); I haven't installed it yet, but it has multiple throw settings, and a two piece shaft design which lets you adjust the position of the offset the knob. If all that isn't enough adjustment for you, it appears it would be straight forward to modify for any realistic position you might want.

So far, I'm very impressed with both the shifter and the parts Wayne's provided. Everyone who's seen it has gone ga-ga. It's one of the few 'splurges' I've spent so far, it will be naked (no boot) and the centerpiece of my cockpit.

[Frank818]

he's modified it for shorter rear exit cables

So on most shifter kits you can modify the throw by changing the cables' length?
Sorry to ask, I know not much about shifting parts!

[longislandwrx]

So on most shifter kits you can modify the throw by changing the cables' length?
Sorry to ask, I know not much about shifting parts!

no you reduce the height, reducing travel, or modify the cable attachment point with changes your leverage/cable travel. This can be done on either end. A short throw does it on the shifter side, a redrilled hole on FFRs bracket accomplishes the same task.



here is a great article and actually very relevant since the shifter assembly is the same/similar.
http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showthread.php?t=210641

[Frank818]

Great! Tnx a lot for that again! As always.

[wleehendrick]

So on most shifter kits you can modify the throw by changing the cables' length?

No, what I was referring to is that the FFR shifter (out of a Toyota) has cables that run forwards; You have to then loop them around back to the tranny; they end up being very long. The k-tuned shifter (designed for a Honda) is the same configuration stock, but Wayne set it up so the cables exit to the rear, and can run right over the gas tank; they're therefore much shorter. The cables he provided are sweet, so I'm hoping for a great shifter feel.

[longislandwrx]

No problem sir

I picked the TWM because it is so short but has the same lower rod length as the TRD unit. Obviously TRD spent more monies on R&D then any of the others so I like that number, the difference is upper rod length which is easily changed with a taller shift knob if needed.

[Zodiac]

looks good I was thinking of doing the same thing after I get all my wires in and cleaned up...so many wires :/

[longislandwrx]

Last post about the shifter, installed the boot, new delrin shift knob and cables.

Very happy with the whole look and feel.

2354023541

[Xusia]

Gosh darn it man! I plan on using Delrin too! I thought it was a rather unique idea, but I guess not... :(

[longislandwrx]

Well it's lightweight and wont get hot in direct sunlight so I figured it was perfect for this application, I also have an STi knob which is one of my favorites but heavy, and two different machined aluminum ones, but they get hot!

[C.Plavan]

Get to work! :)

[Rasmus]

Make like suey and



chop...



chop.

[longislandwrx]

Sick kids for 2 weeks is my first excuse, coupled with the horrors of the holiday season.

The next is I am also waiting for my new heater to come, the garage has just been to cold to get much done. I did run my cooling tubes and drilled and installed MANY rivnuts. I consolidated all my remaining parts to one box and now have plenty of room to work around the car.

Snowblower is tuned up and ready for tomorrow.

fridge is stocked with beer. Sorted all my tools. Installed a new tv and dvd player in the garage... JUST NEED HEAT!

[Mechie3]

The next is I am also waiting for my new heater to come,


Installed a new tv and dvd player in the garage... JUST NEED HEAT!

I was doing wiring in the garage wearing long johns under my pants and 2 sweatshirts sitting next to a small propane tank top heater. I cut myself once or twice and didn't realize it because it was cold.

I saw the $98 32" TV at walmart black friday. I said to my wife "this would be perfect for the garage". She said no. :(

[metalmaker12]

I here ya, I got some heat but it is still pretty chilly in there

[RM1SepEx]

My garage is insulated but still cold. I need insulated doors, next year's upgrade. I added air for the summer but I have a k1 salamander and 35,000 BTU propane tank top. I can get it tho where it is comfortable... my back issues have delayed my progress.

[flynntuna]

Know what you mean, it's been getting down to the mid 40's overnight and it hasn't got to the mid 70's in weeks:rolleyes:

[RM1SepEx]

zero yesterday AM, snowing right now... 36 right now.

[wleehendrick]

Know what you mean, it's been getting down to the mid 40's overnight and it hasn't got to the mid 70's in weeks:rolleyes:

Colder than that... We're only a mile and a half from the beach and my Z's windshield was iced over this morning! :eek: I haven't owned an ice-scraper since I moved out here over 20 years ago. It's only supposed to get up to 60F today.. Brrrrrr.

[longislandwrx]

Mechie you are a BAMF, when it gets into the 20s here I just can't stay out there that long like I used to. (gone are the days of doing winter oil changes in a tshirt)

Wife already signed off on the new garage door, January that goes in. I insulated the ceiling last winter. With decent seals it should get nice and toasty with the HERO60.

[Canadian818]

-44 last Friday, I was in the garage with a t-shirt on. :D

So glad I installed a 50,000 btu natural gas heater in October. If any were wondering, -40 Celsius is also -40 Fahrenheit.

[Mechie3]

Mechie you are a BAMF, when it gets into the 20s here I just can't stay out there that long like I used to. (gone are the days of doing winter oil changes in a tshirt)

Wife already signed off on the new garage door, January that goes in. I insulated the ceiling last winter. With decent seals it should get nice and toasty with the HERO60.

:lol: If I'm close enough to the heater it's warm enough. It's radiant heat. If I move to get tools I get cold. It'd be nice to have a big heater, but this one was free to borrow so I'll take it.

[adubbelde]

Know what you mean, it's been getting down to the mid 40's overnight and it hasn't got to the mid 70's in weeks:rolleyes:
Poor Baby, it's 2 degrees F here now and going down :D

[flynntuna]

Poor Baby, it's 2 degrees F here now and going down :D

I know, had to put away the shorts and start wearing long pants and a jacket to work! Though still in short sleeves by 9am. :cool:

[AZPete]

I decided not to join in this thread. I called two friends in Minnesota this morning and got only adult words.

[Aloha818]

This is the reason I'm in Hawaii, 86 degrees! Still happy with A/C and/or a fan.

View from work;

24115

[metalmaker12]

Wow I want to live there

[wallace18]

82 in Florida today. I don't know how you cold weather guys do it.

[metalmaker12]

82 in Florida today. I don't know how you cold weather guys do it.

You just have to imagine its 85 and clear sky's when it 30 and a blizzard outside

[Silvertop]

Well, I'm pretty happy. I've been chipping away at my garage insulating project for almost two months, and it is now nearing completion, with only about a half dozen between-the-studs fiberglass batts remaining to be installed. They are some of the harder ones to do, because they are behind the workbench, and there is plenty of stuff in the way, including the workbench itself and all the stuff stored on the lower shelf -- plus the pegboard above the workbench which is full of tools. But the recently installed 240 volt 7500 watt electric heater is already getting the job done. We've had subzero (Fahrenheit) temps here in MN the last week or so, but I'm working out there in a T-Shirt. I expect to finish the remaining insulation in the next day or two.

Almost ready to start working on the car! Dang!

[Frank818]

82 in Florida today. I don't know how you cold weather guys do it.

Lucky, 32 around here, which is warm by now, but they forecast temps dropping day after day down to -7F at night Thursday. Ain't no time to work outside I tell ya. Can't wait till the summer, I sure darn hate winter!!!!

[Frank818]

You just have to imagine its 85 and clear sky's when it 30 and a blizzard outside

Good luck! lolll But I second you!

[C.Plavan]

Man..... I get sad when its 50 degrees in my garage. I thought that was cold!

[metalmaker12]

We're getting 4-6 inches of the white **** tonight, and temps dropping to single digits, if I see 40
In my garage that's good, need to insulate

[philly15]

We're getting 4-6 inches of the white **** tonight, and temps dropping to single digits, if I see 40
In my garage that's good, need to insulate

i'm jealous of all you living where it's warm!!

it's well worth the time to insulate, just got my garage done a couple weeks ago. i didn't have mine insulated last winter and it was miserable tearing apart my donor car. was just working out in the garage earlier in shorts and a t-shirt, while it's -17 outside. insulation and propane heaters FTW!

[Xusia]

This is the reason I'm in Hawaii, 86 degrees! Still happy with A/C and/or a fan.

View from work;

24115

Isn't that pretty much the view from EVERYWHERE in Hawaii?!?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Subaru practice in cincinnati today


http://youtu.be/NxO1sR1tPz4

[longislandwrx]

That rent-a-cop probably wouldn't have put up much of a chase!

I'll be doing that this afternoon. The Graspics are installed and ready for duty.

[Frank818]

82 in Florida today. I don't know how you cold weather guys do it.

We swear all the time, it helps getting the frustration out of us and survive another winter. :)

[wleehendrick]

Subaru practice in cincinnati today

Well, no snow in San Diego today, but freezing temps again overnight, so my summer max performance tires (which I run year round, usually without issues) were cold soaked... and had little more traction than that... Even after a couple miles, they were still greasy and had to catch the rear end a couple times on my drive in to work. That'll wake you up! :eek:

[07FIREBLADE]

Well, no snow in San Diego today, but freezing temps again overnight, so my summer max performance tires (which I run year round, usually without issues) were cold soaked... and had little more traction than that... Even after a couple miles, they were still greasy and had to catch the rear end a couple times on my drive in to work. That'll wake you up! :eek:

At least you were running 4 wheels. Dead battery this morning meant it was time to bust out the bike to get to my finals today. Lame

[wleehendrick]

At least you were running 4 wheels. Dead battery this morning meant it was time to bust out the bike to get to my finals today. Lame

Brrr...

Last week I noticed my battery wasn't cranking strongly, and sure enough it was on it's last legs. Got $84 credit for the time left on the pro-rated warranty. Good thing I did, since I'm sure it would not have turned over this morning!

P.S. How did longislandwrx's build thread get turned into the "*****-about-the-cold-weather" thread?

[Canadian818]

P.S. How did longislandwrx's build thread get turned into the "*****-about-the-cold-weather" thread?

We got bored with his lack of updates, lol. I've been very amused with what most of you consider "cold."

[Mechie3]

P.S. How did longislandwrx's build thread get turned into the "*****-about-the-cold-weather" thread?

Well, the thread title is "cool Nickname" so it fits with the cool weather. :D

[wleehendrick]

I've been very amused with what most of you consider "cold."

Hey, I did my under-grad in Rochester, NY... I put my time in and had enough of the lake effects weather! My senior year, we go hit with a massive ice storm and all of Western NY was shut-down; that was right when I was deciding where to go for grad school. Hmm... University of CA, San Diego accepted me? I'm there!

[Xusia]

Lake effect?!? Yeah we have that here too - it's called the [cold] Pacific Ocean!

[BrandonDrums]

Jealous of the people in FL with 82 degrees and jealous of the people up north who are actually getting snow. I live in purgatory AKA North Carolina. It rarely gets cold enough for snow but still gets cold enough to be depressing and uncomfortable.

Rain at 34 degrees SUCKS. Snow actually feels warmer even at 15 degrees. The only bright side to rain at 34 degrees is that a 3 year old set of summer tires doesn't really grip all that well. I can get some pretty awesome throttle on oversteer in the Subie even though I can't do 4 wheel doughnuts and drifts in the parking lot like I wished. If global warming keeps up I'll be opting for my winter tires to be a set of narrow prius low-rolling resistance tires to induce drifts at low speeds like the BRZ. A Subaru driver just wants to drive in low grip conditions every once in a while.

http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af89/BrandondrumsWRX/Rainboo_zps4017fd9c.png

That reminds me, the old Bridgestone RE92's that came on 02-05 WRX's were TERRRRRIBLE in the cold and the wet. I remember doing 4 wheel drifts all the way up cloverleaf onramps back in the day with just the stock 227hp this time of year (in the wet that is). I can't do that with 350whp now hardily....priiiiuuusss tirrreesss. MMMMM

http://i1.ytimg.com/vi/s_n_yj8L6ZQ/hqdefault.jpg?feature=og

[adubbelde]

We got bored with his lack of updates, lol. I've been very amused with what most of you consider "cold."
Our Neighbors just got home from the birth of their Grandchild in Thompson Manitoba. NOW THAT'S COLD :cool:

[ehansen007]

Liking your shifter mod there Long Island. Considering it myself. I bet it helps with wider seats. BTW, are those Tillets you're running?.

[longislandwrx]

Liking your shifter mod there Long Island. Considering it myself. I bet it helps with wider seats. BTW, are those Tillets you're running?.

I haven't decided on seats yet, I was originally going to use Status Rings, but considering the cage proximity and seeing Plavin's and other posts I may opt for something with a full halo.

[BC Huselton]

That is a great size trailer and it is it a U-Haul? Tires look smaller and wider and it look shorter than a typical U-Haul. Just wanted to know in order to make one like it...copy cat thing. Could you confirm, thanks, BC

[longislandwrx]

Yes it was the standard UHAUL "Auto Transport" I bought the extra insurance and I think it was still under $70

[longislandwrx]

It may not be the most exciting update but at least I am back at it. I have being going back and forth in my head as to what parts to use on the car and now I'm FINALLY moving forward.

I spent an hour tightening up a lot of bolts that were just hand tight and got everything pretty close to final torque specs.

This weekend I bought some more parts, so I should have everything I need now to make it a roller.

I also got a pretty good deal on an STi steering rack in great shape, with the solid linkage so that will be going in soon.

I'm almost ready to pull the trigger on the brakes. (thank you turbo tax)

Within a few weeks I should have a roller. Pretty excited about that.

[Frank818]

I also got a pretty good deal on an STi steering rack in great shape, with the solid linkage so that will be going in soon.

What's good/better about it, exactly?

[longislandwrx]

A slightly faster ratio than the 05 WRX rack I was planning on using; and a solid coupler, which doesn't have a rubber isolator like the WRX's

[longislandwrx]

Steering rack is installed. I had to do some grinding and filing. I ran some of the cooling flex hose, trying to decide if I want to go with the hard pipes or not.

2584725848

I installed some more of the sheet metal temporarily so I can figure out the routing of my brake and clutch lines. It looks like FFR mounted the drivers side sway bar mount support on backwards... I was wondering why the sheet metal was notched and then I saw the other side. Anyone else's welded this way?

oops?258442584525846

[Xusia]

Mine is also welded like that.

[AZPete]

Mine is also welded like that on the driver side, but the aluminum panel was not notched. On the passenger side the panel came with a notch and it is needed. Go figure.

[Mechie3]

I'm still waiting to see how you mounted your e-brake. :D

[longislandwrx]

Mine is also welded like that on the driver side, but the aluminum panel was not notched.

Great I guess they updated the cut program for later chassis.


I'm still waiting to see how you mounted your e-brake. :D

Stay tuned. Waiting on my cousin to send me a few parts.

[longislandwrx]

Silly radiator support.

So I was ready to install the cooling system so I decided first to mount the radiator support. It wouldn't fit, the instructions showed the nose brackets on the outside of the frame but there was no way. I measured off the outside and one bracket was definitely in wrong spot. I measured and measured and measured, finally figured out that the right bracket seemed to be in the right location and the left was off by about 1/4 inch. Using a few washers and then bolting the bracket to the inside seemed to work. the distance between the corner of the bracket and the ball joint is now an even 13"

I then took the nose aluminum to verify and sure enough, the notch is about 1/4 off. How frustrating, what should have taken 45 minutes took close to 3 hours.

not lining up
27061

not lining up
27062

not lining up
27063


bolted the right to the outside,
the left is on the inside with a gap
27064

one washer seems to work on the top, needed two on the bottom (bracket must have heat warped)
27065


verified the bracket is wrong
27066

did anyone else have this problem?

[Brando]

Mine was also off by around 1/4". I didn't figure out why like you did, but I did fill the space with washers.
I was figuring everyone had this problem...

[Mechie3]

Mine was actually correct though six star cars documented a similar issue.

[AZPete]

Same problem (frame #25). I centered the radiator support to the frame, bent a couple of tabs, added a couple of washers, bolted it and moved on.

[Canadian818]

Same here, #91

[Xusia]

Same problem (frame #25). I centered the radiator support to the frame, bent a couple of tabs, added a couple of washers, bolted it and moved on.

Yep.

[longislandwrx]

Same problem (frame #25). I centered the radiator support to the frame, bent a couple of tabs, added a couple of washers, bolted it and moved on.


Yes it's water under the bridge at this point, but since I couldn't find any mention of it, I just wanted it documented in case future builders have the issue.

[wleehendrick]

Yes it's water under the bridge at this point, but since I couldn't find any mention of it, I just wanted it documented in case future builders have the issue.

Thanks... I was just scratching my head over this, and spacers were my plan. Glad to know I'm not alone!

[Rasmus]

This thread's up again? I thought we locked it? :o

[Wayne Presley]

Mine, the GRM and chassis #30 fit exactly

[AZPete]

Hey, longislandwrx, how about that E-brake mount you mentioned a long time ago? I'd like to see what you did before I install mine. Please?

[FFRSpec72]

Steering rack is installed. I had to do some grinding and filing. I ran some of the cooling flex hose, trying to decide if I want to go with the hard pipes or not.


Sid you do anything to rack or just plug up the power steering hose connections?

[longislandwrx]

Hey, longislandwrx, how about that E-brake mount you mentioned a long time ago? I'd like to see what you did before I install mine. Please?

I'll send you a pm... not ready to let the cat out of the bag yet.


Sid you do anything to rack or just plug up the power steering hose connections?

Just plugged/looped for now, there was a nub under the sti rack that had to be removed that was hitting the bracket... I want to do a full Rasmus depower/shave but I will wait until its a little warmer out, I need to wire wheel and repaint it as well. Pretty soon it will be warm enough to keep the garage door open and I can knock all this stuff out in an afternoon without asphyxiating myself.

[metalmaker12]

Mine, the GRM and chassis #30 fit exactly

Mine, nicks and justin all from R.I all lined up. My chassis is #13

[RM1SepEx]

Mine is #17, lined up perfect

[Erik W. Treves]

mine lined up fine...my aluminum was mis-cut so I just made the tabs bigger

[longislandwrx]

Wow all I can say is choose your donor carefully and you will save HOURS of time.

My knuckles came from Oregon and all I can say is damn! The long bolt pulled out of the rear knuckle by hand, they still have their original magnetite finish and the dust shields and backing plates have all their factory paint. I was anticipating at minimum wire wheeling, and worse case a Rasmus bucket-o-Doom but all these need is a quick brushing and rinse.

Compare that to an east coast salt belt knuckles like the ones currently on my WRX that look like they came off a 40 year old Chevy Vega.

Pictures later.

Also one of the front axles looks to have been replaced... the size difference is comical. I have two options, find a new/used factory inner cv or buy a replacement axle for my daily driver and take the factory one. I'll see what I can find.

[Frank818]

Wow all I can say is choose your donor carefully and you will save HOURS of time.

Tell me about it! :(
But it's almost impossible around here (my place) to choose carefully, as no one (but me) maintains their cars carefully.



I was anticipating at minimum wire wheeling, and worse case a Rasmus bucket-o-Doom but all these need is a quick brushing and rinse.

There is worse than that. You are very very very lucky, take that as a "I will finish my build soon". lolll So we give you another month to complete everything and show us street videos. lolll

[Rasmus]

Wow all I can say is choose your donor carefully and you will save HOURS of time.
This rings true. Pay more and get a donor out of Arizona. Save yourself oodles of time.

[Xusia]

They do not allow salt on the roads in Oregon. :)

[longislandwrx]

Did I mention how much time you save by picking a non salt state donor?

This is how my rear knuckles looked when they arrived:

27438

Here's how they look after 3 minutes of cleaning with a sponge:

27439



I got the pedal box mounted today, getting ready to mount the master, I got the heads of the bolts ground down enough to clear the box only to find out the 1" ones specified in the manual weren't long enough, tomorrow I will grab some 1.5" ones.

Also got the front knuckles mounted, the steering column cleaned up and started figuring out how my rear suspension will all come together.

Soon as my bump steer kit comes, and the column fits i'll be able to steer this thing!

[RM1SepEx]

Steering rack is installed. I had to do some grinding and filing. I ran some of the cooling flex hose, trying to decide if I want to go with the hard pipes or not.

2584725848

I installed some more of the sheet metal temporarily so I can figure out the routing of my brake and clutch lines. It looks like FFR mounted the drivers side sway bar mount support on backwards... I was wondering why the sheet metal was notched and then I saw the other side. Anyone else's welded this way?

oops?258442584525846

that is NOT a mistake... The sway bar isn't straight, one side mounts about 1 inch lower on the chassis. That's why one side is notched and the other isn't. This means we can't go to a straight sway bar unless we redrill and move one of the bushing mounts.

[longislandwrx]

Dan thanks, that's good to know... I was considering using a 2008 sway bar, I'm trying to track one down to test fit. I hope there's enough bracket to make it work.

[Frank818]

Check out that "new" backing plate on that knuckle! :) You lucky! :)

I need to buy 2 new ones, 100 bucks each. :(

[RM1SepEx]

Dan thanks, that's good to know... I was considering using a 2008 sway bar, I'm trying to track one down to test fit. I hope there's enough bracket to make it work.

It looks like there is plenty of bracket. I'd be more concerned about the "arms" that go from the bar to the end. That bar is one convoluted piece of steel! I want to go to a straight bar for increased room under the hood eventually. I'm thinking two radiators in front and vents over the front wheels. That leaves a huge space in the front.

I'm also working on a heater/defroster... and need some space there. It may actually be easiest to use an electric heater for the feet and defrost. I already bought seat heaters.

[Xusia]

Or you could ditch the sway bar altogether...

[RM1SepEx]

Or you could ditch the sway bar altogether...

I would prefer to start my chassis development work from the FFR/KONI baseline... They know what they are doing and put a ton of seat time/development work into it. That's also why I went with the yellow Koni shocks for my S model vs the reds. They had sent me a pair of each :confused:

[longislandwrx]

Got a little bit done this weekend... man it felt good to have the garage door open for a change.

I pressed out my rear knuckle trailing arm bushings and replaced them with the TIC counterparts.

Got the gas pedal mount squared away (added a rivet for strength near the top) Any tips on how to drill that top rivnut without cutting a drill bit in half or drilling through the whole framer?
throttle works, and hits full right as the pedal arm hits the pedal box so a spacer is out of the question.

I also ran my front brake lines and started laying out the clutch/rears... on the fence if I want to go down the tunnel or not. Need to shorten them a little, but waiting on the flex lines to see how much.

27901



I was also ready to build my axles but just like everyone else it looks like I have another set of aftermarkets. These were good "fake" ones at least, oem green and everything.

Sunday was spent on Spring cleanup, 6 yards of mulch arriving this week... oh joy!

Oh well progress made! Just waiting on parts again.

[FFRSpec72]

I was also ready to build my axles but just like everyone else it looks like I have another set of aftermarkets. These were good "fake" ones at least, oem green and everything.


I have not been following the axle issue, what is the issue with aftermarket axles ? I just did mine this weekend and no issues that I know about

[longislandwrx]

Many of the donors as you would expect have non Subaru aftermarket CV / axles and don't work with the FFR supplies axles I had what looked like OEM axles, but it turns out they are not.

[FFRSpec72]

Many of the donors as you would expect have non Subaru aftermarket CV / axles and don't work with the FFR supplies axles I had what looked like OEM axles, but it turns out they are not.

OK, mine seemed to assemble according to manual and no issues, so I assume I'm good to go and my donor CV/axles were OK (they were green but I guess some of the aftermarkets were also)

[longislandwrx]

I finally got my axles together. What a mess. I ended up combining parts from about 5 axles to get the setup I wanted.

What a giant mess. The first CV I opened had a nice thick grease and I thought to myself this is going to be so much easier than usual. I let my guard down expecting the best and opened the next one which was full of green lava. :( All over everything, just like usual.

My advice for everyone, put down a thick layer of newspaper or cardboard where you are working, have a ton of rags and shop towels, have a large garbage can with a bag in it ready to go, several pairs of nitrile gloves and a set of work gloves that you are not emotionally attached to.

The actual assembly went super smooth. I didn't need a hose clamp to compress the snap ring, a flathead and my finger were enough.

I may touch up the paint but I'm happy for now, and can finally get rid of all these boxes of axle parts sitting around.

28068

My steering column and bump steer kit should be here by next Wednesday, the trailing arms and lateral links the week after.

[longislandwrx]

My Baer tracker kit finally arrived. It is a very nice piece, I just rough fit it but it appears to have plenty of adjustment . Now I'm just waiting on Rori's spacer and this thing will finally steer!

If you are on the fence I think its $175 well spent if you are considering running at the lower ride height. my tie rod ends were toast anyway so it wasn't that big of a jump.. Subaru OEM outer tie rods are close to $50 each IIRC

28262

[Frank818]

That looks pretty good indeed.

[longislandwrx]

Shortening Your Steering Column 2.5-3" with Rori's Spacer

Rori's Spacer arrived today, bling bling
28305

The steering rack started at about 32.5 inches the spacer lets you shorten it by two inches. Using the closer hole in the frame you can reduce it by another half inch. If you are willing to drill two new holes, you can get another half out of it or 3" total.

The inner shaft can only be pressed about an inch before you are to the taper. You need to press the outer sleeve as well. Unfortunately my press is not tall enough to get the column under so I had to improvise.

I started by drilling a 4" deep 11/16 hole in a scrap of 2x4

28306

Mark your inner sleeve where it meets the outer sleeve at .5" increments so you will know how far you need to go. Put the end of the column on the floor on a block of wood to keep the threads from mushing. Using a 2.5lb hammer, first tap down the inner shaft the 1" you can go.

put your block over the shaft and tap the inner sleeve into the outer sleeve. I stopped at 1.5" but you can go another half.
Tap the inner shaft down to the correct length, for me it was 30" Remember, its a lot easier to shorten it then pull it back out.

Check that your length is correct and insert the column into the u joint

28307

bolt the spacer to the column and bolt it to the frame

28308

All in all a very nice piece that Rori has made. A little pricy but much nicer than a scrap of aluminum and I didn't have to donate any blood to install it. I may redrill two new holes to get an another half inch but i'll wait until I get my seats and see if i'm happy first.

[C.Plavan]

Will you have to notch the splines for the knuckle bolt? Or does it not change? I'm too lazy to go out and look at it in the garage. :)

[longislandwrx]

no, if you shorten it properly, everything lines up perfect with no notching needed.

[C.Plavan]

Dude........ Where are you and where is the progress?

[Mechie3]

There's a few people that have disappeared.

LongIsland
Fate066
Mike Everson (though he reappeared and said he was busy)

[longislandwrx]

I absolutely have been working on it. although nothing particularly unique or remarkable worthy of an update post. There are so many build threads now I was waiting until I came across something that I hadn't seen yet to update on.

I did modify the steering rack bracket to be able to bolt on top of the frame, I didn't like how it spaced down and then back up, it took a lot of grinding and a lot of time.
I decided on brakes and made a shopping list. I am going to be getting the hard coolant pipe kit. Mishimoto has a new direct bolt on shroud kit that has coolant tank mounts, and I stumbled across this beauty.
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Moroso-63785-Aluminum-Coolant-Overflow-Tank
a little extra bling bling. I'll just use a universal in the back. It's really time to pay the piper.

It's been a busy summer.

My daily driver needed a lot of maintenance, timing belt water pump, oil change, exhaust gaskets etc. and a wash and wax. That was two weekends

The local Hyundai dealership tried to kill my wife and kids, (forgot to tighten/install the bolts that attach the front subframe to the car) I just happened to catch it because there was a miraculous coolant drip that made me to take the undertray off.

I've been spending a lot of time getting our house / backyard up to fierce party mode (my sisters wedding in two weeks - lots of out of town guests/parties)

Lots of yard work, Installed 150ft of stainless guide wire and attached party lights. I also added another 200 square feet to my deck, and a new fire pit.

fear not I will be back in full swing soon.

[Mechie3]

You don't need subframes. They just add weight to the regular frame.



:eek:

[Frank818]

There's a few people that have disappeared.

LongIsland
Fate066
Mike Everson (though he reappeared and said he was busy)

Rasmus as well.

[Brando]

Glad someone said something, I was wondering where they went as well.

[D Clary]

Could be the project deal, there is a certain percentage that never get completed for one reason or another. Ask me how I know.

[longislandwrx]

There's a few people that have disappeared.

LongIsland


Haven't updated this thread yes, but disappeared? LOL 32 posts last month.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/search.php?searchid=1096890

[Mechie3]

:D It's hard to keep track of everyone now. "back in the day" when we had 5 build threads it was easy. Now, don't update your thread? Drops to page three by Monday afternoon. lol.

[longislandwrx]

speed holes not required. fierce updates coming soon!

34672

35156

35157

I was thinking to myself, what's the easiest way to get the holes symmetrical on both sides of the car? I clamped the two pieces together and re drilled all the holes.

perfect, except of course I forgot FFRs ill placed zip screw holes. Now I've got 2 extra holes. awesome. strength!

[longislandwrx]

I'm back at it!

I've got the rear suspension pretty much sorted out, a few of my bolts are too long so I need to order some shorter ones.

These MSI parts are so nice. Fitment and quality was top notch and they are plenty light. The trailing arms are impressively light.

42107

forgive the filthy ebrake cables, need to clean them this weekend.

42108

42109

You can see the Whiteline KCA377 toe lock kit.. this eliminates the cam bolts when running at street height. (I decided to run at street height, after realizing it will be very difficult to get in and out of my driveway at R height. Nice fitment, worth $40? probably not but it did the trick and now I don't need to worry about the cam bolts spinning.

http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Whiteline-Rear-Toe-Lock-Kit-Subaru-WRX-STI-2002-2007

42111

42110

I inverted my shocks and there is not much clearance between the bracket bolt and the spring, I may end up running them normally, but I will wait until its on the ground.

42106

next up I need to finish the brake lines to the rear and put the brakes on.


Hopefully it will be rolling by the end of the month.

[Frank818]

I'm back at it!
Hopefully it will be rolling by the end of the month.

No updates in 7 months and you'll still roll it just faster than I will. :)

I really like your MSI parts! I think I should have gone with those, are you the only one running these on the forum?

Is it me or the trailing arm is not adjustable?

[longislandwrx]

The trailing arm is not adjustable... the caster is already adjustable with the top bar so I didn't think it needed it. Plus they are incredibly lightweight, which is more important to me than having the wheels centered in the wheel well. 3lbs lighter than stock.

[longislandwrx]

still dreaming of lightweight brakes... wondering how these would hold up at <1800lbs curb weight.



https://pandlmotorsports.com/shop/pl-motorsports-wilwood-wrx-sti-brz-fr-s-lightweight-brake-kit/

[Wayne Presley]

Why not spring for carbon rotors...

[JeromeS13]

still dreaming of lightweight brakes... wondering how these would hold up at <1800lbs curb weight.



https://pandlmotorsports.com/shop/pl-motorsports-wilwood-wrx-sti-brz-fr-s-lightweight-brake-kit/

Don't do it. Those things won't handle ANY heat. They don't even recommend driving them on the street...

[Scargo]

Agreed. They are not beefy enough to handle heat buildup. What if you were going down a mountain road with vigor, or even rapidly?

[longislandwrx]

Why not spring for carbon rotors...

always a future (albeit expensive) option, there was a company that was toting "affordable" carbon rotors a while back, I wonder if they ever came to fruition
for now I don't have $16k to spend on off the shelf brakes. As mentioned in a previous post, Porsche takeoffs can sometime be found for a great deal, but I don't really want to put this project back on hold for 6 more months, waiting for the right price and machine work.




Don't do it. Those things won't handle ANY heat. They don't even recommend driving them on the street...

I was talking to Ty at P&L and asking if there was a off the shelf solid disk rotor that would fit the same aluminum bracket/caliper setup.

I like the idea of that brake kit more than the execution, but if there's a solid disk it may be an option, at 11.75 it honestly doesn't look much smaller than an 05 solid disc.

something like this..

http://www.wilwood.com/Rotors/RotorProd.aspx?itemno=160-3201

[JeromeS13]

always a future (albeit expensive) option, there was a company that was toting "affordable" carbon rotors a while back, I wonder if they ever came to fruition

It



I was talking to Ty at P&L and asking if there was a off the shelf solid disk rotor that would fit the same aluminum bracket/caliper setup.

I like the idea of that brake kit more than the execution, but if there's a solid disk it may be an option, at 11.75 it honestly doesn't look much smaller than an 05 solid disc.

something like this..

http://www.wilwood.com/Rotors/RotorProd.aspx?itemno=160-3201

It may be comparable in diameter, but this rotor is only 8.89 mm thick? That's only 1/3 of the thickness of an 02-05 WRX front rotor.

[longislandwrx]

It may be comparable in diameter, but this rotor is only 8.89 mm thick? That's only 1/3 of the thickness of an 02-05 WRX front rotor.

yeah but what about an 02-05 rear rotor, solid disc, http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Centric-120-47011-Premium-Brake-Rotor-Rear&source=GoogleBase?gclid=CMf_utu14MUCFYMSHwodEroAtg

that bad boy handled 3200lbs + 5 passengers.

[JeromeS13]

yeah but what about an 02-05 rear rotor, solid disc, http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Centric-120-47011-Premium-Brake-Rotor-Rear&source=GoogleBase?gclid=CMf_utu14MUCFYMSHwodEroAtg

that bad boy handled 3200lbs + 5 passengers.

Yes, but only ~ 30% of that load was on the rear rotors?

But, then again, a Smart ForTwo has a 297mmx9.5mm front rotor....

[longislandwrx]

Yes, but only ~ 30% of that load was on the rear rotors?

But, then again, a Smart ForTwo has a 297mmx9.5mm front rotor....

This would be just for the rear, the fronts would still get full size vented 4 pot brakes.

[JeromeS13]

This would be just for the rear, the fronts would still get full size vented 4 pot brakes.

Oooooh. Haha. That would make more sense. Disregard. haha

[Mitch Wright]

I am using AP 299mm 1.25 60 vane rotors front and rear and 4 pot AP calipesavings total
weight savings.

[Scargo]

Don't forget the Smart ForTwo is slower that poop so it doesn't need much brakes.
I will refer to my conversation* with Ian Berwick who was at Alcon and did braking testing. He recommended that I use identical 13" rotors and four pots front and rear. That's almost exactly what Stoptech engineers recommended for me (I am using 328mm/28mm or 12.9"/1.1") and Stoptech went one step further by specifying a special piston combo for the ST40 calipers. So, front and rear calipers are not identical. BTW, when working with Stoptech Engineering I filled out an extensive data form with the 818R specs. I went through Zeckhausen Racing for them. Dave Z is a great guy to work with.

*The jist of the conversation was bigger is definitely better. While I may have added a pound or two I have gained in pedal feel, control and cooling potential. So says the expert and Stoptech agreed.

[longislandwrx]

I am using AP 299mm 1.25 60 vane rotors front and rear and 4 pot AP calipesavings total
weight savings.

huh? I imagine the calipers are lightweight, but does it still use the factory style ebrake hat?


Don't forget the Smart ForTwo is slower that poop so it doesn't need much brakes.
I will refer to my conversation* with Ian Berwick who was at Alcon and did braking testing. He recommended that I use identical 13" rotors and four pots front and rear. That's almost exactly what Stoptech engineers recommended for me (I am using 328mm/28mm or 12.9"/1.1") and Stoptech went one step further by specifying a special piston combo for the ST40 calipers. So, front and rear calipers are not identical. BTW, when working with Stoptech Engineering I filled out an extensive data form with the 818R specs. I went through Zeckhausen Racing for them. Dave Z is a great guy to work with.

*The jist of the conversation was bigger is definitely better. While I may have added a pound or two I have gained in pedal feel, control and cooling potential. So says the expert and Stoptech agreed.

thank you for this... I would be interested as to how they came up with this. It's nice to have someone do the math for you.

[Scargo]

What I gave them to work with. Only error is I have a 17" rear wheel and tires are not that size.
42206

[longislandwrx]

Word to the wise, make sure you have the right hardware for the rear suspension before you put it all together.

The only thing worse than getting everything lined up and getting the bolts in is doing it twice.

I grabbed these, trailing arm to frame, M12 1.75x80 need two with nuts

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261308374060?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

80s just make it to the end of the nut, 85s would be ideal if you could find them, 90s hit the frame...

and these, trailing arm to knuckle and front lateral link to frame, M12 1.75x70 need four with nuts

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261853858443?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

again, only need two of the longer bolts but I'm sure they will get used.

[longislandwrx]

Tricky Rivets.

in the interest of making the front end removable I was planning on using rivnuts on the front square bar to attach the front side sheet metal.

there's a small section when it seems impossible to drill/rivet/rivnut, anyone figure out a creative solution for attaching this piece? I considered drilling all the way through from the other side, using the FFR provided low profile "tool"

the flap in question

4502745028

any other ideas?

also did anyone rivet to the crumple bars? to avoid rattles?

45029

[C.Plavan]

Really, rivets are removable. Dont kill yourself trying to do rivnuts everywhere. I have removed riveted panels easily with a 1/8" drill bit, then threw them back on in minutes with a handheld rivet gun.

That front portion has some black duct tape on it. You can't rivet it.

I don't hear anything on mine. Maybe because I have a helmet and no muffler.

[longislandwrx]

it would only take 2 or 3 rivnuts on each side, I'm also in agreement about not adding 40 extra bolts to the car. I also considered using some industrial Velcro on that little piece

[Buzz Skyline]

I riveted to the crumple bars (as I recall, just a single rivet on each side) because of the racket the panels were making as I drove around city streets. They are nice and quiet now.

[longislandwrx]

Thanks guys. I will run one small bolt through the crumple bar.

[RM1SepEx]

I just glued it down with silicone and put a clamp on it until it cured.

[longislandwrx]

Can someone please post the Subaru 06+ caliper mounting bolt center to center measurement?

thanks in advance!

[FFRSpec72]

also did anyone rivet to the crumple bars? to avoid rattles?


Yes I did as I modified those panels and attached other panels to them

[longislandwrx]

In case anyone wasn't aware, FFR updated the side cooling tubes sometime last year. The new tube has a slight bend in it and reaches all the way through the pedal box.

I had my heart set on the hard cooling lines from Breeze and now I'm glad I held out. The V2 setup from breeze uses the bent pipe and reduces the amount of tubes and couplers. IE less weight and less chance of leaks... It was also cheaper.

I was able to pick up the new version of the side tubes for $85 shipped from FFR. $60 if you can pick them up.

The version 2 kit is $439 vs $570 for the original style. So I saved $46 with benefits.

fitment was a little tight, I needed to tighten the clamps on the tubes then push them into the pedalbox area but I should be able to get to them if needed if I get creative. The lower hose still rubs on the steering rack bellows so I will need to shim my (STi)radiator up a little.

All in all I am happy with this setup. Anyone needing original style side tubes or adapters or flex line let me know.

I will upload some more files later, this is a great setup.

5162751628

[Pearldrummer7]

Huh. That's pretty nice that they're pre-bent. I used a lot of the FFR flex tubing and ended up making some mounts to the frame for that reason. This could've saved a bunch of work for me.

What's the point of doing hard lines over the flex lines from FFR? Seems like a large cost for marginal convenience?

[longislandwrx]

I did it for a few reasons,

The looks, these things look so great, I will post a few more images very impressive.

Smoother flow, the flex like will certainly slow down flow, trap gunk in the folds (although those fins probably radiate quite a bit of heat)

Less chance of leaks, no slide on this adapter over that adapter

All new parts, no reusing clamps and chopping up the Subaru hoses. (new gates hoses and claps are only like $30) but it all adds up.

Is it a luxury? yes, but it really cleans up the front of the car.

[RM1SepEx]

it would only take 2 or 3 rivnuts on each side, I'm also in agreement about not adding 40 extra bolts to the car. I also considered using some industrial Velcro on that little piece

10-32 drill tap http://www.amazon.com/-tool-home-Combination-10-32nc-10-24nc-12-24nc/dp/B016FMEZSO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1458215384&sr=8-3&keywords=10-32+drill+tap

as long as the material is thick enough they work just fine and are much quicker than a riv-nut

[Pearldrummer7]

I did it for a few reasons,

The looks, these things look so great, I will post a few more images very impressive.

Smoother flow, the flex like will certainly slow down flow, trap gunk in the folds (although those fins probably radiate quite a bit of heat)

Less chance of leaks, no slide on this adapter over that adapter

All new parts, no reusing clamps and chopping up the Subaru hoses. (new gates hoses and claps are only like $30) but it all adds up.

Is it a luxury? yes, but it really cleans up the front of the car.

I'd definitely like to see these pics. I probably won't re do mine until/unless there's a problem with it, but it's nice to see the options

[NISMO_RB25]

What firewall grommet are you using for the steering column? I tore the one that came with my kit and need to replace it after I shorten the column.

[longislandwrx]

Nothing special Just the FFR one with that white Subaru cap on there from an STi (which is not really doing anything but it was in good shape and I had it) , have ffr send you a few in an envelope or McMaster should have some