longislandwrx/Insert Cool Nickname Here Build Thread

[longislandwrx]

Not the best shots but you get the idea, the rear rubber needs to be trimmed, but not going to do it until the engine's dropped in.

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[Frank818]

That bend on the side of the car makes the pipe enter the frame into a much better place.

[longislandwrx]

It does Frank, the only issue I am having now is the lower pipe rubbing the steering rack bellows. (not a hard pipe problem, a FFR problem with the radiator mount location) I tried putting one of the shifter grommets in there but it still hits, any more and I'm out of space on the radiator peg. It just sucks, had a big day planned for working on the car, and now I cant do ****. I guess I will order Rori's spacers if he still has some.

I am getting tired of nothing fitting quite right.

edit, ordered Rori's spacers, had a beer and some cake and all is right with the world!

[Frank818]

It just sucks, had a big day planned for working on the car, and now I cant do ****. I guess I will order Rori's spacers if he still has some.

I am getting tired of nothing fitting quite right.

I get that, I get that! Understand fully and I'm with you. Hopefully you'll find a solution soon enough to remove that block off of your road.

[longislandwrx]

Thanks Frank we'll all get there eventually.

I am usually a pretty cool and collected guy but this piece had me bleeding and seeing red.

a special "forget" you to sheet metal 80175 the fitment is just terrible, drilling is a pain and I was already frustrated with the kit.

Anyone else fight this guy? had to trim the metal quite a bit, the angle of the fold is wrong (you can see the gap at the top) I drilled a hole for the brake line to pass through, but tightening may be an issue.

I'm done for the day. Miller time.


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[RM1SepEx]

Hang in there order of assembly using the manual just isn't right, we have all struggled with that panel later in the build. (I ranted re this over a year ago) Your early kit having a spacer/radiator issue is almost understandable. The fact that I know it was still there for a kit in the 200's is uncomprehendable

[GUNS]

Yea the piece was a pain for me. If I recall correctly, I did a fair amount of trimming to it and didn't get as many rivets into that I wanted.

[longislandwrx]

Thanks guys, Glad I am not alone.

Typically I sit there fiddling for a while thinking that I am just a derp and can't figure out the fitment, then I realize it's just the parts.

I will tackle the other side tonight. I guess it's time to stop nitpicking about parts that no one will ever see. :p

[Frank818]

Oh yeah that piece of alu! Damn you 80175, had many tirmming too and not so many rivnuts as well. I worked on it before the body and wheel wells, hopefully those don't impact the 80175. After some time wasting my time to fit the part I just let it go and fit it as I could, not trying to reach the near perfection on that one.

[DSR-3]

I don't have access to my car/parts right now to check- but make sure you (or they) don't have left and right reversed. When I first fit mine I remember seeing something similar- until I swapped sides. Maybe they were even marked backwards, but it was probably just me...

a special "forget" you to sheet metal 80175 the fitment is just terrible, drilling is a pain and I was already frustrated with the kit.

Anyone else fight this guy? had to trim the metal quite a bit, the angle of the fold is wrong (you can see the gap at the top) I drilled a hole for the brake line to pass through, but tightening may be an issue.
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[longislandwrx]

I tried flipping them, but I think it was much worse the other way. The sheet metal diagram shows 175 on the drivers side, and the top poking out like mine does, maybe it is marked wrong, but I doubt it, I will eyeball it one last time.

edit:

I take it back, It looks like it could go either way, the fitment isn't any better but at least the flap isn't sticking out. now I need to decide whether to keep it the way I have it, switch it and deal with extra holes, or order a new piece from FFR

I would love to see this piece on few other builds if anyone could post a pic of theirs I would appreciate it.

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I'm still pretty sure the ffr sheet metal diagram shows 175 on the drivers side. I'm guessing that's wrong.

[DSR-3]

Mine fit best like your second try- on the inside of the frame with the top bend facing inward. The long bends should match the tubes better too. But... I see that your left side forward panel has an (unused) notch that mine does not. There are more than a couple parts that seem to have evolved (or could use some "review" of) their design & fit.

[longislandwrx]

yeah they fixed a few of the panels that had unnecessary cutouts. can you post a pic of your 80175 when you have a few minutes?

[RM1SepEx]

When I couldn't get all the rivets I wanted in I just used clamps in those areas. Drill and clecko, pull apart, clean, add silicone, reattach with a couple cleckos, rivet and clamp until the silicone sets, you shouldn't have any problems

[Loring]

Drill and clecko, pull apart, clean, add silicone, reattach with a couple cleckos, rivet and clamp until the silicone sets, you shouldn't have any problems

+1. That's roughly my method. I'm also not opposed to drilling and riveting at a slight angle.

[longislandwrx]

Agreed, for most of the rivets on that piece I just drilled through the square tube from the other side through my existing holes. I tested where I could get the rivet gun in first.

[longislandwrx]

Well I finally finished routing my brake and clutch line all the way to the back of the car. I wanted to try something a little different for a cleaner look. I regret now not running the front brakes behind the firewall but I can always adjust that later.

The clutch line does a 180, goes through a grommet. another 90 towards the center of the car, another 90 down the left side of the center bar and down the tunnel.

The rear brake line does a quick 90, through a grommet. follows the pedal box to clear the clutch and throttle down the right side of the center bar and down the tunnel.

I only made one bonehead move and flared the line without putting the fitting back on. Very happy with how it came out, much cleaner up front.

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I also test fit the eye bolts for the harness, I am very happy how I ran the sheet metal over the bracket and now everything is clamped together. Just need to get a measurement from OG racing to make sure I have the width I need.

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Mocked up my front brakes and started figuring out my rear brake bracket.
looks like I need 24" brake lines on the front or maybe 22's if they have a 90 on one side.

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Next I have to chop up my beautiful backing plates so I can get them off the knuckles, Its either that or take apart my rear suspension AGAIN and have the bearings pressed out. Not sure yet.

[longislandwrx]

Here's a few shots of the rear brake lines. I ran out of 3/16 so need to pick up another 4' feet for the right side but almost done.

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[longislandwrx]

Chad's suggested countersunk washers really cleaned up the top radiator mounts.

some 2" countersunk screws and an 1-1/4 aluminum spacer and the cooling system is done. Just need some flame retardant foam to fill the gaps.

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[Frank818]

Foam? Which gaps are you filling?

[longislandwrx]

Foam? Which gaps are you filling?

there's some gaps around the aluminum on the sides top and bottom, and the radiator itself. Some people have made aluminum panels to force air through the rad but a few strips of foam should be lighter and enough to solve the problem.

Also a word to the wise, I finally got around to installing my brake pedal clevis, tried about 4 times and couldn't figure out why the clevis wouldn't go in, finally tried it by itself and the hole was too small. the 5/16 is just not quite big enough. needs to be a 21/64 most likely. I just reamed it out a little with the drill. Would have been so much easier before it was bolted to the car. Lost some skin for this mistake.

I guess that's why the manual says " Drill a new booster push-rod mounting hole using a 5/16” drill bit. After drilling, test fit the stock push-rod
connecting pin." live and learn.

[longislandwrx]

I am moving to a bigger house so I need to get my car off the buck and on wheels. I have the suspension in the street height holes for now. With no body/engine in the car what should my target ride height be? Maybe an extra half inch up front and an inch in the back?

Thanks guys.

[Hindsight]

The speings settle quite a lot. Engine, body and windshield add a lot of weight. I wouldnt worry too much about it... your suggestion sounds good.

[longislandwrx]

great, I was worried about rubbing or potential issues from it being too high. I will set it 4.75 front 5.5 rear and see what it gets me.

[idf]

Wayne Pressley once posted some measurements for initial positioning of spring perches. I don't recall the numbers, but they got me close. Not sure which thread they are in.

[Canadian818]

Wayne Pressley once posted some measurements for initial positioning of spring perches. I don't recall the numbers, but they got me close. Not sure which thread they are in.

It's in the 818 Assembly Tips thread in the General section. I believe it's this part...



Rear shock spring preload, adjust it before putting it on the car. From the bottom of the spring perch to the bottom of the threaded sleeve is about 3" at ride height. Much easier off the car since you have to put 3/4"ish of preload on spring

[Frank818]

4.75" at front? I can barely make it to 4.5, I think I have 4.3 or something. Any more and the springs get loose when jacked up.

[longislandwrx]

4.75" at front? I can barely make it to 4.5, I think I have 4.3 or something. Any more and the springs get loose when jacked up.

that works I just figured since the springs are mounted, it will be easier to preload the springs without the body/engine weight hanging on them. i'd rather lower than raise later.

[longislandwrx]

It rolls, surprisingly level at around 4.5" all around. Easy to pull up the driveway with my WRX. Hopefully equally as easy to get it on the trailer.

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with crappy 03 wheels, the rear links barely clear the tires with no rear rotors installed.




Body work sponsored by Gorilla tape.

[Frank818]

Nice tail lights! Ebay stuff for sure. lolll

It rolls but without an engine yet?

[longislandwrx]

yeah no engine... We are moving in a few weeks so it seemed silly to order it now.

[Frank818]

And the new owner would take delivery for free, yeah pretty silly.

What are your posts #3-4-5-6 for in your first page of your thread?
Ok why did I go on your page? lolll Checking when you started your build, I couldn't remember.

[longislandwrx]

they are for when I hit milestones. glider, gokart, finished, registered. unfortunately since I decided to get cute with the rear brakes I'm not even at glider yet. Selling/Buying a house really ruins your summer

[wleehendrick]

Selling/Buying a house really ruins your summer

Tell me about it... Whenever anyone ask how the car's coming, my response is "if you want to finish a car project, don't buy a house". Roof, paint landscaping, flooring, and building a small wine cellar. All while the poor 818 sits neglected in the garage.

[flynntuna]

Wine cellar for her, man cave for you.

[wleehendrick]

Moved the discussion over to my thread (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12062-Wleehendrick-s-Build-Thread&p=249878&viewfull=1#post249878) to not high-jack longislandwrx's anymore! :D

[longislandwrx]

Build update?

Nope. She's stored for the winter. Sold our house, house we were buying fell through, it's a shame too it had a really awesome "carriage house"

Living with parents at age 35 for the first time in 16 years. awesome.

on a brighter note the Leader Accessories Basic Guard 3 Layer Universal Fit Water Resistant Car Cover (Cars up to 13'1''(157'')) fits the R like a glove.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J0C8AEC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

super happy with the fit. buy the smallest one, cars up to 13'1

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[Frank818]

Only 35... well that sucks being on a halt again. :( At least you found a great car cover.
Hopefully next update in Spring?

[longislandwrx]

Sure Frank... Spring!! Not exactly... but i'm getting closer to getting her out of storage.

It's been an insane past year... we bought our dream house last summer, and I spent the next 6 months making it livable, including going to battle with the village for permits that should have taken weeks that ended up taking months.

You can't make this stuff up, I swear I felt like I was being secretly filmed for a ridiculous reality show at times.

In March we had a baby and I lost my best friend in Iraq the next day. A few weeks later an off-road excursion claimed my beloved WRX. **** it was a tough month.

However, we persevere and endure.

Fast forward to now and i'm starting to get the garage sorted out, i've got the circuits run to get electricity out to it and as soon as some nice weather comes ill bring the 818 back home.

Thanks to my 05 taking one for the team I now have a harness to send to iwire as well as a transmission that was in great shape as well as some other great parts.

I bought a ridiculously quick 02 wagon in the very rare midnight blue pearl color and i've spent a few weekends getting her sorted out so I'll have a respectable daily driver. Moved over more performance parts, interior swap, and just undoing a lot of goofy stuff done over the years.

It's been great haunting all the build threads this past year, it kept me motivated. Getting excited about being back in the 818 game though... I need some good garage therapy

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Jeff

[AZPete]

It's good to see you back, Jeff, and congrats on the baby, the new house and persevering through your losses. I like your plan of garage therapy and trust you'll follow your signature.

[longislandwrx]

Well apparently i'm terrible at time management but i'm back at it.

Seeing a few old faces around here certainly motivated me.

This weekend I finally pulled the wiring harness and engine from my WRX and started cleaning and simplifying the EJ. ;D

ordered the last few things i need to button up the engine, sti oil pan pickup and dipstick , 2008 water pump and a gasket set.

I think the last thing i need to get the car driveable (besides sending the harness out) is a new clutch and flywheel so time to decide on one of those.


thanks for the motivation guys... stay tuned for some engine bolton posts and more boring stuff.

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PS am i the only one who cant add pictures properly in chrome?

[Frank818]

You're back!!! Wow I remember you from 2014, all good and clear on the house?

[AZPete]

Welcome back, again!

[longislandwrx]

You're back!!! Wow I remember you from 2014, all good and clear on the house?

Hey Frank, yes, still working with an architect for the garage and addition plans but things are coming along.


Welcome back, again!

Thanks buddy! I got the turbo and manifolds off last night so as soon as my oil pan gets here i can put this engine right side up.


One of the things i'm doing to clean up the engine is the oil warmer/delete. To do it properly takes 3 parts

21111AA250 the 2008+ WRX waterpump which has the 2 nipples instead of 3
15018AA050 the oil filter union
11021AA121 the block plug to remove the one with the hose

this gets rid of the crusty pipe on the front of your block and probably about a half a pound.

pics coming this weekend.

[Scargo]

Hey Frank, yes, still working with an architect for the garage and addition plans but things are coming along.



Thanks buddy! I got the turbo and manifolds off last night so as soon as my oil pan gets here i can put this engine right side up.


One of the things i'm doing to clean up the engine is the oil warmer/delete. To do it properly takes 3 parts

21111AA250 the 2008+ WRX waterpump which has the 2 nipples instead of 3
15018AA050 the oil filter union
11021AA121 the block plug to remove the one with the hose

this gets rid of the crusty pipe on the front of your block and probably about a half a pound.

pics coming this weekend. This is a better pump than the one you’re looking https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01M6C7K8U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_Gt47EbS99SEK3

[longislandwrx]

To clear an ELH (equal length header) you need an STI oil pan or aftermarket... most of the oil pans i've seen extend way below the frame rails. Fingers crossed that the torque solutions pan which uses an o-ring will fit when it comes out!

For now I picked up and sti oil pan, 2.5 liter pickup (yes i know they can fail) dipstick and tube and sti windage tray to get this engine running. Phase two will be likely be either a better pan and pickup with the killer b oil control valve or a dry sump. (TBD)

At this point I just want to move forward.

parts you need:
15049AA110
11109AA151
11140AA150
10915AA010
15144AA011

paid $190 for everything shipped.

While waiting for everything to arrive, I soaked the bolts in Evaporust, and they came out great, but may end up getting new ones.

Bottom of the block is starting to come together.

Once the pan and header are back on I can keep scrubbing with dish soap and water to get the last of the grease off the block, and swap the water pump.

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[Mitch Wright]

My KB pan didn't hand down but maybe 3/4" and was even with the main frame rails of the center section. More than once I dropped wheels and never scraped the pan with a 3.75 ride height in the rear.

[longislandwrx]

Not quite done cleaning the oxidation but i'm getting closer. Once the timing covers are back on i can do a little more wire brushing.

Installed the replica parts alternator turnbuckle, motive composite tgv deletes, and grimmspeed ported manifold and TB ( still need to transfer over my dieted wiring harness)

starting to look like a pretty simple EJ if you ask me!

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[longislandwrx]

Not sure how many are here that still remember me or my build, but i'm so close to getting it home.

I had dreams of bringing home my 818 (from storage) and working on it in our (barely) 1 car garage... But I knew there would never be enough room.

The plan all along since buying our new house was to build a new garage in our backyard so around 2021 I began on that process.

And what a ordeal it was... permits, hearings, surveys, more hearings, neighbor fights etc etc and here we are in 2024 with an almost finished garage that is almost ready to store the 818.

So here I am 4 years later, with the 818R coming out of storage almost exactly 8 years to the day.

Building the garage was an ordeal, but man, building a structure with your bare hands is so rewarding.

Sad to see that Mechie is selling his... hopefully I can ride this motivation to get back to it.

How many OGs still here?

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[jbs72697]

That’s good news. You must be looking forward to getting back at it. I bought 818S three years ago and haven’t made much progress at all due to life, caring for parents, a ridiculously small and cluttered garage, and my own health issues. I’m having surgery this month to hopefully cure my issues and we are just now finalizing plans to build a whole new BIGGER garage! So I’m pretty excited to have a proper space to get seriou about the build

[longislandwrx]

Nice! good luck with your project. Hopefully it goes a little smoother than ours.

Crazy thing is its been so long I can't even remember where I left off on some things.

First step is going to be taking inventory and seeing what i've lost in the past 8 years.

[Bicyclops]

8 years? I can't find what I set down 30 seconds ago

Ed

[octobersknight]

Not an OG exactly, but I've been building (agonizingly slowly) for 6 years ...

[longislandwrx]

I’ve been chipping away at the project and things are finally moving! I managed to find that missing rear brake kit on eBay and finally sourced a wiring harness. Looking over the car now, I’m actually just about ready to drop the engine in.

I still need to swap the valve cover and idle air valve, plus refresh a few gaskets and seals that have been sitting too long, but man—I’m way closer than I thought. The startup fuel system will be temporary, and I’m sure I’ll run into a few 'sat-too-long' gremlins, but if I play my cards right, I might be able to 'go-kart' it this summer. Maybe that’s optimistic, but we’ll see! I still need to grab a clutch and flywheel (pretty sure I tossed my old ones) and finish the 2WD conversion once the wheels are on.