Chris' Coupe Build #566 - Rear Camera. EPBs. Hatch floor.

[460.465USMC]

It's hard to believe the two year anniversary of my kit delivery date is this Wednesday! Just for grins, I compared my Coupe build timeline to my MK4 timeline. At the 22 month mark on the MK4, I had just completed First Go-Kart. This time around, I’m a ways away from dropping in the drivetrain.

Besides taking a couple months off from the build here and there, the main reasons my Coupe progress differs so dramatically is (1) all of the custom panels and brackets I’ve made on this build. And, (2) there are quite a few additions to the electrical portion of the build (e.g. rear camera, cruise control, back-up lights, etc.). I guess it all adds up over time.

Not to worry because my main goal is to enjoy the build process. So, if I want to take on the challenge of making my own trunk box (I did!) I’m going to do it. (Modeled after Edwardb’s, of course). There’s a lot of fun, and a feeling of accomplishment I get from going off script. And, occasional frustration. That’s what it’s all about for me. Okay, enough rambling. Back to minor updates on my progress.

Rear camera/mirror (Auto Vox T9): I changed my mind again –for the 3rd time– and decided I will mount the rear facing camera to the hatch glass, just behind/below the rollbar. I routed the rear camera cable along the top of the roll bar. Routing it inside the tubes is trick–-did that for the other part of this harness. But after a chat with PNWTim, he pointed out the cable on top of the rollbar won’t be visible with the body on unless you’re really looking for it. Summary: out of sight? Check. More serviceable? Check. Considerable time saved. Double check. In hindsight, I would do the same for the cable to the mirror. The camera comes with a looooong piece of cable, and no good way to trim it. So, I ran out the excess inside the loom. I used cushion clamps anchored by 10-32 button heads.




Wilwood EPBs: now that all the harnesses are routed into the cockpit from the fixed objects they power, I made some of my first connections in the cockpit. The Wilwood EPB harness was up first. I trimmed 4-5 feet off the 12 AWG power wires that feed the calipers. Then trimmed 6+ feet off the smaller 20 AWG wires that connect to the dash mounted control switch. All splices are soldered. More on that in a minute.

Now to the fun part: this gave me a really good excuse to test my main wiring from the battery, through the master cutoff switch, and to the +12V busbar where the EPB’s main power lead connects. This is the first time I energized the main power system. A test lead connection to ignition power, but everything else was real-world. The EPBs worked as advertised. No smoke released. Phew! The indicator light stays on with ignition power when the EPBs are engaged. Removed ignition power, and the EPBs stayed engaged. Just like they should when I’m parked and walk away. Good.

I was on a roll, so I completed the final IRS CV axle nut torque (98 lb ft + 45 deg). The brake rotors didn’t budge whatsoever with the EPBs engaged. Nice! (Tried this months ago with my daughter’s foot on the brake pedal, but the rotors still spun). Put a witness mark on the axle nut, and put the wheels back on.

Papa recently gave a nice demo video of his Wilwood EPBs, so I won't duplicate here. With the EPB circuits completed, I felt confident to silicone and rivet my forward transmission tunnel panel. Not much to look at, but the rats nest in this area is about to become even more rats-nestier as I add in the harnesses for cruise, lockout solenoid, etc.




Hatch floor: With the EPBs installed and tested, there was no good reason not to button up the hatch floor. So, I put the final torque to the -6AN connections at the Trickflow fuel filter and at the pump. Installed the forward hatch panel, followed by the larger rear panel and trunk box hinges. Then, applied Thermotec, but left the outer edges unattached so I can slide in the hatch slides. Speaking of those, my final powder coat batch (hopefully!) should be ready for pickup any day.

Took this shot just before laying down the Thermotec. You can see the missing rivets along the left and right edges.




Power Steering cooler: it wasn’t in my mind to install one, but ultimately decided the benefits are there for the extra heat protection IF I autocross. Not to mention it gives me a good excuse to upgrade the hoses. In both builds, I’ve used Teflon lined SS braided hoses and connectors from Breeze for my fuel lines. Will do the same here for my power steering hoses. I’m always happy with Breeze parts. Mark is a pleasure to work with. Good quality.

I really liked where Edwardb mounted his cooler. But, I don't have clearance to do the same. So, this is the location I found. Not as clean, but it should work. I'll install a 120 deg. connector for the connection back to the rack, and a 45 deg. on the other outlet to the pump. The rest will be 90 deg, and all are -6AN.




Electrical misc.: like others I spend a lot of time trimming down circuits/harnesses that are way too long for my application. And, in some cases, extending them. For those circuits where I’m not using connectors (e.g. Weatherpaks), I solder wire-to-wire. Those connections are solid, but perhaps a little bulky, and not the most professional looking, especially the large gauge wires. So, I’m going to try these non-insulated butt connectors. The non-insulated butt splice is no different than the uninsulated wire-to-wire soldered sections. Both require shrink tube. I think this may even improve the reliability, and give a more professional looking end result. Because, you know how many eyes will see these connections inside the wire looms, or tucked under the chassis. Know anyone who’s three inches tall?





Mini ATM fuse pigtails: For those connections which need a fused input (constant or switched power), I’m going to try these Mini ATM pigtails. Available from Del City in 12 AWG (up to 30A), or 16 AWG (up to 20A). I ordered a few of each. Also, with the additional electrical circuits I’ve noted, I think a dedicated ignition busbar is unavoidable. A place is needed to gather switched power. Not to mention it will also provide an easier way to isolate a circuit if future troubleshooting is needed.