Dave and Sheri Build a 30th Anniversary MkV - Coil Covers, Heater Hose

[Dave Howard]

The intercooler tank and pump platform was fabricated from a piece of aluminum plate. It was cut to fit around the frame and was just wide enough to allow it to slide into place from the side. Tank and pump mounting locations were determined and holes drilled for fasteners.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1775436908

The angled bracing of the frame in the center is not on the same plain as the main frame members so stainless steel spacers were made to go between the frame and the aluminum plate.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1775436908

I elected to install rivet nuts in the frame and secure the plate with socket head cap screws.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1775436908

I cut a small section of rubber hose that came with the Roush kit for the connection between the tank and the pump.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1775437417
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1775437522

It was important to get this equipment installed before dropping the engine in, as space will be quite limited.

[cv2065]

Looks great Dave!

[Dave Howard]

We completed the final prep before finally putting the power train in the car. The engine mounts were taken apart and spacers provided in the kit were added.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1775134145
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1775134145
Then, the engine was hoisted from the shipping crate and the shipping supports removed. This allowed the mounts to be installed and torqued to spec. It also gave room to install the starter. You get what you pay for. The starter provided had NO manufacture information. I'm sure it came from off-shore. Mounting holes were off just enough that the bolts wouldn't line up properly. A little tweeking with a dye grinder helped to make it fit. Grrrrr. I removed the alternator, and the Roush supplied bracket with the tensioner for the blower drive belt. This had been installed by the supplier as per the installation instructions from Roush. One of the mounting bolts that also holds an idler is drilled into an unused "boss" at the front of the timing chain cover. The instructions call for a hole to be drilled and tapped in the "boss" to accept a 70mm M8 bolt. When the tensioner bracket was removed, this bolt was loose and could not be tightened. I initially thought the bolt hole was stripped. To my surprise, the hole was intact and with full thread. WHAT????? After an hour of troubleshooting and a couple of calls with the supplier we determined the hole was tapped for an M9 bolt. GRRRR. Try to find a 10.9 grade, 70mm long M9 bolt. We are still sorting that one out and I will probably resort to drilling the hole to M10 which is much more common than M9. Its a good thing I took that tensioner bracket off.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1775790786
The last components to be removed to make the engine installation easier was the long steering shaft between the front of the footbox and the steering rack, the fuel pressure regulator, the transmission shifter and the oil temperature sensor from the side of the oil pan.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1775790786
I used moving blankets to protect the anodized aluminum and got Sheri to assist with the actual installation.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1775790786

We took our time and made small moves and frequent checks. After about an hour, the engine was sitting on the mounts.
Initially, it appeared as though I would need a spacer on the right side as there was a large gap. With some gentle persuasion and manipulating the level of the end of the transmission, everything went into place. The mounts were left loose until the transmission support was installed and the final position for the transmission was determined. It required an additional 7/8" spacer between the transmission mount and the transmission. The spacers were made from the same 1.5" diameter 6061 aluminum thick wall tube I used for the turn signal project. The tube has an inside diameter of 0.75". The last thing to complete the drive train was to torque the drive shaft mounting bolts to spec. I used the 20mm long bolts provided in the kit.

It's a big milestone having the engine/transmission in place. I now have a long list of projects to finish or start. There's oodles of room in the transmission tunnel. I've started to re-install some of the pieces I removed from the engine for the install. The transmission shift mechanism was reversed when it went back in place. This brought the handle mount forward about 5 inches.

[Dave Howard]

Additional pictures.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1775790786

Engine resting in its new home.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1775790828
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I'm glad I didn't put the remote reservoirs on the engine bay side of the frame tube.

Transmission spacers.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1775790828
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1775790828

[Dave Howard]

Lots of space in the transmission tunnel.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1775790862
Shifter position.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1775790862

[Dave Howard]

I had to order an M10 tap and 70mm M10 bolt to repair the mistake made when the supplier tapped an M9 to mount the supercharger tensioner bracket. The instructions from Roush call for the hole in the boss to be drilled 35 mm deep and the treads to be at least 25mm. Well....another GRRRR moment. The hole was only drilled 25mm deep. After tapping to the new M10x1.25 thread I attempted to install the tensioner bracket but found the bolt bottomed out before coming to rest on the bracket. I added two washers to the bolt head and got the supercharger belt tensioner installed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1775998112
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1775998112

The alternator was also installed and the steering shaft secured back in position.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1775998112

The hydraulic clutch line was attached and the system filled with DOT4 brake fluid. It was an easy bleed process. I'm happy with the external slave cylinder. A VERY easy process to change the cylinder compared to an internal hydraulic release bearing if there are issues in the future.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1775998112

Battery cable and main power feed to the car was completed at the starter. Cable eyes were secured to the cable by filling the end with solder then heat shrinking the connector. Its a tight spot and taxing on arthritic hands. No worries. Another item checked off the to do list.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1775998112

[Mike.Bray]

The hydraulic clutch line was attached and the system filled with DOT4 brake fluid. It was an easy bleed process. I'm happy with the external slave cylinder. A VERY easy process to change the cylinder compared to an internal hydraulic release bearing if there are issues in the future.[/URL]

You are far more likely to have an issue with the throwout bearing than the hydraulic actuator in my experience.

[Dave Howard]

You are far more likely to have an issue with the throwout bearing than the hydraulic actuator in my experience.

I agree 100%. Having the external slave reduces 1 less thing that could go wrong that would force you the aggravation of removing the transmission. I don’t want to experience that again.

[Dave Howard]

The heater plumbing project was tackled next. Unlike my 2012 Coyote build were I used a simple cable pull/push control valve, I elected to use an electronic heater control/bypass valve for this project. The valve assembly was taken apart and spacers replaced with a simple mounting bracket made from 1/8" plate aluminum.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1776546617
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1776546617
This allowed the valve to be mounted behind the heater core/fan inside the passenger footbox. Rivet nuts were installed in the square tube. Spacers were made from stainless steel tube.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1776546617
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1776546617
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1776546617

The transition from inside the footbox to the engine bay was via a Vintage Air double bulkhead plate. Connections on either side were 90 degree Vintage Air O-Ring heater fittings. The spot chosen for the bulkhead connection took into account the routing of heater hose to and from the control valve, and to and from the engine. Regular heater hose was used inside the footbox. T bolt stainless steel clamps were used at all connections inside the footbox. Prior to the final installation, the inside of the footbox was taped off, sprayed with 3M Super 77 and interior carpeting installed.

Heater hose in the engine compartment will be black nylon covered. All hoses in the engine compartment will be similar. The heater hoses will be run after I receive the Roush coil covers. I can now move forward and close up the passenger footbox.

[Dave Howard]

Heater plumbing additional photos

Bulkhead plate location determined.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1776546676

Holes drilled and frame taped for carpet installation.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1776546676

Engine bay side connections. Bulkhead place and connectors were polished prior to installation.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1776546676

Carpet installed and final connections made.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1776546676

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1776546676

[Dave Howard]

Heater plumbing additional photos
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[Dave Howard]

I ordered the coil covers from Roush that are designed to fit the Eaton's TVS R2650 supercharger. Part number is 422161. I wanted to have these covers before making heater hose, fuel line and electrical connections at the engine. While waiting for these covers I started to install sensors back on the engine that I had removed for the engine/trans installation. The oil temperature sensor was initially going to be installed in the right side of the Moroso oil pan having a 1/2" NPT plug. Unfortunately, the pan was too close to the frame square tubing and there wasn't enough room to install the sensor. I had to install the sensor on the left side of the pan. The left plug has a 20mm thread and is designed to take the factory low oil level sensor. The Aluminator did not come with this sensor. A 20mm by 1/8" NPT adaptor was purchased and the oil temperature sensor from Speed Hut installed. Factory and Speed Hut oil pressure gauges were also installed. I was about to complete the wiring connections when the coil covers arrived. I switched gears.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1777511562
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1777511524
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The Roush coil covers are designed to fit a late model Mustang. The left side cover fit perfectly. The right side had some slight interference issues with frame tubing. A few minutes with the Dremel tool and a die grinder bit and the right side cover slid into place.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1777511332
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1777511332

With the coil covers in place it was easy to determine clearance and routing for the heater hoses. These were tackled next. All hoses in the engine compartment will be black nylon covered. I had nylon covered stainless steel reinforced heater hose from another project. The Roush supercharger kit included coil cover mounting brackets with heater hose mount locations. The hosed ran neatly on either side of the supercharger. Hide-a-clamps secured the heater hoses at both ends and a 12AN separator used near the through wall connections.

[Dave Howard]

Heater hoses connected and secured in place to the Roush brackets.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1777511332
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1777511332
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1777511371
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1777511371

[Dave Howard]

I originally purchased an engine cooling system expansion tank from Mishimoto. I used the same tank on my MkIV but this tank wasn't going to be an option worth pursuing with the MkV frame. I therefore went with the more compact expansion tank from VMP. This tank fits nicely in the center of the frame directly behind the radiator and allows for easy connections to the engine and the radiator. A mounting bracket was fabricated from 1/8" aluminum plate. Rivetnuts were installed in the fan shroud to secure the mount, and rivetnuts installed in the bracket to secure the expansion tank, An additional rivetnut was put in the frame tube to secure the lower mount tab on the expansion tank. The bracket was given a polish before final installation. Connections to the tank will be made after top and bottom rad hosed are fabricated and installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1777514138
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1777514138
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1777514138
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1777514138

[Dave Howard]

Engine cooling expansion tank installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1777514175
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1777514175