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Thread: 3-link Upper Link Bracket Attachment

  1. #1
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    3-link Upper Link Bracket Attachment

    Hi All,

    I am installing the FF 3-link retrofit kit onto my MK3 (#5818).

    My frame came with the upper 4-link brackets welded on, so I first removed the right one to make room for the new upper link bracket. This bolts onto the 3x2 frame member behind the passenger seat, and the vertical 3x2 just outboard of that.

    I drilled through the 3x2 from the top and the bolt threads in and goes into the hole in the bracket. The problem is...the nut is insided the narrow and *angled* bracket, and hence I cannot fit a socket or wrench on it to hold it while tightening from the top.

    I could try 'jamming' something on both sides of the nut perhaps, but those large friction nuts are hard to turn and that doesn't seem like a good approach.

    The only thing I can think of is welding the bolt head to the bracket - threads up - pushing the bolt up through holes in the 3x2 frame and tighting from above.

    FF doesn't mention anything about welding in the instructions :-) so just checking to see if I'm missing something here.


    Thanks,
    Brian



    3-link bracket.jpg
    FFR 5818 MK3 build restarted.
    331 EFI stroker, T5-Z, 3.08 gears. BBK shorty headers -> FFR cats & side pipes.
    Recent: 5 lug & Rear disc swap, Halibrands. Next: ePowersteering, 4 to 3 link, E-Stopp, ProFlo4.

  2. #2
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    difficult spot for sure! I have a couple ideas that might work...

    1. use a SHCS (allen key screw) and put the bolt up, then tighten the nut. I don't love this idea because the bolt is down. Just against good practice for me...
    2. jam a cold chisel in there by the nut and tighten the bolt. If you use a chisel at least it is tapered to allow a drift to knock it back out.
    FFR Cobra MK3 F5R100 5447 donor kit - picked up Jan 4, 2025 started build March 28, 2025
    Build thread here

  3. #3
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    I would flip the bolt so the head is down. Throw away the FFR supplied nut and buy 2 standard nuts. No nylock or any kind of locking nut. Put a little bearing grease on the bolt threads and then use tnt's cold chisel idea to hold the bolt head as you tighten the first nut. Once it is tight, run the second one on as a jam nut and tighten to maybe 1/2 to 2/3 of the normal torque.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  4. #4
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    Thanks guys! Good suggestions.

    I like the idea of using a cold chisel to secure the bolt head inside the bracket, and using two standard nuts on top to avoid having to crank down the friction nut so many turns while engaging the chisel :-)

    I shouldn't say this, but the rest of the 3-link install looks like it will bolt up pretty readily, so I can then move onto power steering.

    Brian
    FFR 5818 MK3 build restarted.
    331 EFI stroker, T5-Z, 3.08 gears. BBK shorty headers -> FFR cats & side pipes.
    Recent: 5 lug & Rear disc swap, Halibrands. Next: ePowersteering, 4 to 3 link, E-Stopp, ProFlo4.

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  6. #5
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    I am a huge fan of nylocks but, when access is limited, I go to double nuts in a heartbeat. It's so nice to run a nut on by hand and only need a wrench for maybe the final 1-2 turns.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

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  8. #6
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    My build thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...Roadster-Build

    Thread on Stainless Steel AN brake lines.
    Thread on fasteners and torque wrenches.
    Thread on Wilwood & Tilton master cylinders

  9. #7
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    SO much overthinking on this. Run the bolt in from the bottom, red locktite the nut and you're done, or use green. You'll never take it off
    Mrk III, 331 stroker, Borla stack injection, T5, 3:55 IRS, Power steering and brakes. Kleiner body & paint

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