Coupe Re-Body

[Tynaje]

PLA is easy, compared to ASA. Virtually no warping with PLA, but you cannot use a vapor bath to remove print lines and strengthen the part. Sanding is about your only recourse.

I detest supports as well. ASA supports are a pain in the butt. It drove me to acquire the MMU (multi-media unit) for my MK4S so I could print supports with PLA. Makes it much easier and cleaner to remove them. Fortunately the MK4S can print up to a 75 degree angle before it needs supports.

The Prusa slicer can create cut seams and dowel joints. I have not needed that functionality yet, so cannot comment on well it might work. Here is an example printer profile which allows a Bambu printer to use the Prusa slicer: https://www.printables.com/model/272...-carbon-04mm-b

I'll add a few photos of custon painted ASA supports, they are extremely effective and simply fall off or stay on the printer bed. It's just 100% waist, although not exactly so since it makes a part nearly perfect. I began painting entire surfaces then tried a series of vertical stipes with outstanding results. One of the ASA problems is availability. I want to stay with bambu filiament since I have so many rolls. I think laminating a veil on the finished body may not be avoidable but not the end of the world.
The plan is to spray the body with Blue Duratec vinylester fairing primer and finish in gelcoat. Since this is a tooled one off I don't really care about varying plug densities printing to the finished car through the mold. "We'll" color sand the mold and eliminate anything the filament creates. Like runs in paint, unbalanced density has memory. Thank you for the slicer links and input, it's very helpful.

flight-83,
PETG is most definately plan b if ASA isn't sorted. I had a few spools of PLA matte so I just bought more. closed my eyes and hit "send" hoping for the best. It was such a great learning experience. A very good friend just happened to walk in the shop door as we dry fit the body and had a WTF moment. "At least it's only PLA, hahaha....."
I used PETG to print 4 taillight bucket molds for the R&D Coupe. I insisted on zero draft molds and had a lot of failures. 3 from a single mold would look great but the molds could not produce a clean 4th part. Printing 4 male molds worked great since they were sacrificial. Heat gun make quick work of the PETG and the molds were easily folded and drawn out of the parts. I didn't want to mix resins and hoped the high end polyester resins in the shop would not burn melt the PETG. I waxed the parts with green Partall paste wax #2. The molds help up and did not melt, perhaps the partall added a membrane of protection? In any event I agree PETG is a very good option.