Rick's Mark V Roadster Build

[rickster991]

I saw this post from edwardb. So I am going to try and adjust the switch.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post405159

[65 Cobra Dude]

Glad to hear you got it through the FL red tape! Congratulations!

Henry

[rickster991]

Was able to adjust it. When I changed my position on the brake pedal I did not readjust it. Moved it out until light turned on and then a couple of twists back. Now it comes on when I barely touch the brake pedal. Phew that was an easy one. I will say make sure to adjust it while you have access. Quite the contortionist exercise to get to it!

[rickster991]

Glad to hear you got it through the FL red tape! Congratulations!

Henry

Thanks!

[cv2065]

Ok I finally have my car registered. I filled out the TL-41 as a kit car. After lots of “discussion” at the DMV I could not do replica or kit car. According to the supervisor FFR is not registered with Florida as a Kit Manufacturer. My only option was ASPT. So they helped me fill out the paperwork, get a waiver for the airbags and we scheduled an inspection. The inspection was pretty basic, but I almost failed! My brake lights would not come on. It turns out that they only come on when the brake is all the way to the floor. I passed inspection and got my sealed package and headed to the tag office. After lots of “discussions” there , they put it through as ASPT. They wanted to do replica or kit and I begged them to leave it alone and they did. So I have an ASPT rebuilt title.

Attachment 223720 Attachment 223721

I had asked FFR for help and they put me in touch with their expert in FL. He said that he has done many cars and always does ASPT. I asked the supervisor why my title was flagged and he mentioned they are auditing titles going back to 1980! So who knows… hopefully others that have gone through the TL-48 process won’t go through my nightmare.

Well, at least you got it all squared away. I'm not sure why FFR and Florida can't get this right in the state as they've been at it for a while. All Backdraft and Superformance cars are listed as 1965 Replica. Factory Five is on Sunbiz as a manufacturer, but somehow that doesn't translate to the actual DMV database.

[rickster991]

Yeah it’s weird, I was thinking about it and I wonder if what really happened was my VIN change. When I got home from OATA I noticed they got the VIN wrong. So I went to a local tag agency to fix it. I wonder if that triggered the audit. Either way I’m done with it.

[rickster991]

I’ve been posting on another thread about my brake booster experience. Here is the latest….

After driving for a bit, it doesn’t feel like I am getting much assistance from the booster. So I decided to install a vacuum gauge to see what’s going on. It looks like im getting 15 inHg at idle. From reading some posts it looks like you need 18 inHg for the booster. I am going to check with FFR on Monday.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1V2C...w?usp=drivesdk

I hope that simply installing a canister will solve the issue. I like the look of this one, can use my gauge and it fits nicely next to my brake reservoirs.

https://a.co/d/aXRuvCQ

After talking to FFR, they could not give me the required vacuum specs for the booster, but said my engine should be fine. They did mention that I should be using vacuum line instead of the 130 psi fuel line I was using. So that was the first step. I noticed a little difference but nothing dramatic. So I decided to install the vacuum canister. It was straightforward. I had to use a different mount as the one supplied caused the canister to not fit. The first thing I noticed was a steady gauge needle and 20+ inHg.

IMG_9986.jpg

I then went for a drive. What a difference! It still felt solid but the brakes engaged much sooner and firmer. I was finally able to lock up the tires! I noticed my rears locked up before the fronts so I need to adjust the balance bar. Overall I recommend installing the canister. It’s worth the $60 investment.

[rickster991]

Final install…. I like the look!

IMG_9995.jpg

[rickster991]

I have over 800 miles on the car so I decided to check underneath to make there were no surprises. I found one! The rims are rubbing on the anti-sway bar. It happens on full extension so I think it’s happening at low speed when I’m in and out of the garage.

Attachment 224075 Attachment 224076

I saw a thread that said to use these from Breeze.

https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/st...-limit-spacer/

Will these work with my power steering rack? Simple as remove dust boot and place them?

[dr-sicel]

I finished plumbing the evaporator by running the drainage lines. No surprises and it went smoothly. I decided to run the lines out the front of the footbox instead of the floor as the instructions call for. Installed a grommet through the sheet metal and then a tie down to the frame. I thought you might see the line if I ran it through the floor.

Attachment 216212 Attachment 216213

Thank you for all this - it will help considerably once I get to the HVAC portion of my build. I’m pretty sure I’m in the bottom 10% for progress - don’t have a lot of time to dedicate to it, but it’s plugging along. Engine install is imminent (which is code for 1-4 weeks away, haha).

[rickster991]

Thank you for all this - it will help considerably once I get to the HVAC portion of my build. I’m pretty sure I’m in the bottom 10% for progress - don’t have a lot of time to dedicate to it, but it’s plugging along. Engine install is imminent (which is code for 1-4 weeks away, haha).

No worries. I had to move the location of the condenser from my initial installation. Make sure you check that out.

[rickster991]

I saw a thread that said to use these from Breeze.

https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/st...-limit-spacer/

Will these work with my power steering rack? Simple as remove dust boot and place them?

Update: I posted a thread on the main board and got feedback. From yes you can use these to simply cut some material off the sway bar. After investigating I noticed that the bar was no longer centered. I centered it and now there is no rubbing. Although the clearance is minimal. I am 90% sure I centered it. Someone suggested these to stop it from shifting. Seemed like a simple inexpensive fix so I went for it. I got the 7/8” after measuring the bar.

https://a.co/d/5QwP2me

IMG_0101.jpg

[rickster991]

I found a solution to my cup holder placement. The only spot available on the console was in the back on the driver side. This would interfere with shifting. So, inspired by my 911, I opted for a sliding tray design. I purchased these two and was able to use the mounting from one to hold the other.

https://a.co/d/0Mvq9sI
https://a.co/d/3Ql8Qs0

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It works really well and is attached to the dash and frame. The dash is at a slight angle so i had to leave a gap so it’s level. I plan to build a panel to cover the gap and hold the AC vent.

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https://youtube.com/shorts/V76NMnNZ_...tvAic_zNrolIFZ

[rickster991]

I decided to look into the steering play I have. I was hoping it would go away with the alignment but it didn’t. Driving on Florida’s straight roads it’s manageable, but once I drove it in NC it removes all confidence on winding roads. I thought the play was coming from all the steering column joints, but it’s not. It seems like the play is coming from the rack itself. I uploaded a video showing the play on the rack.



I read some posts about adjusting the preload on the rack to remove play. It looks like you loosen the lock nut on the rack and tighten the preload. I think this is the adjustment nut.

IMG_0148.jpeg

Do you agree? If it is, there is no room to do it! And it seems like the lines are in the way. Anyone have experience with this? Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

[rickster991]

Update: After speaking with FFR support, they agreed that the play is in the rack and that I should watch videos on how to adjust it. They said the shafts should come from the manufacturer without play. I guess I got unlucky. It involves loosening the jam nut, tightening the inner bolt until it’s tight and then backing it out. The wheel should turn freely and the ultimate test is that during turns the wheel should return to straight without issue. The first step was to figure out how to tighten the inner bolt. Turns out it is a 17mm hex. I just happened to have a bolt/nut combo that fit perfectly.

IMG_0153.jpeg IMG_0154.jpg

Loosening the outer nut required channel locks. It was quite the task to get it loose as there are lines in the way. All the videos I saw had the outer nut coming off easily from the inner. That was not the case. They are bound together pretty tightly. So I needed to loosen both enough so that I could hold the outer nut with the channel locks while tightening the inner nut so that I could increase the preload. Step one was to loosen it enough so that I could get the inner nut to bottom out. It was then multiple attempts to get it to increase the preload, not bind, and tighten down snugly. After a couple of hours and lots of swearing it’s done! I drove it in the field and most of the play is gone and it turned freely and returned to center. There is a little play left, but that is in the shaft knuckles. Next will be trying it on windy roads.

[rickster991]

Went for a test drive and it felt amazing! Minimal play and was able to make several u turns at low and high speed and it returned without issue. I think it’s fixed. I marked the bolts to make sure they don’t come loose.

https://youtube.com/shorts/aKXr1vvq7...d-8rFfwbX35Tkk

[rickster991]

I dropped the car off with Mike at Spotlight Customs in GA for the paint and body work. Now the waiting begins. The hope is that it is ready for the rally with GA Cobra club in August.

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[rickster991]

I just got my title in the mail. Interesting Secondary Brand. I hope not!!!!

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[rickster991]

Have not posted in a while as my car has been with Mike at Spotlight Customs for a while. He is making progress and I Should get the go-kart back next week to finalize some things before the body goes back on. He is making progress. Very exciting.

[rickster991]

Can’t seem to upload photos…

[cv2065]

Have not posted in a while as my car has been with Mike at Spotlight Customs for a while. He is making progress and I Should get the go-kart back next week to finalize some things before the body goes back on. He is making progress. Very exciting.

Where's the pics from Mike?

[rickster991]

Where's the pics from Mike?

I think I figured it out. The administrator mentioned they have to be less than 2 MB. Not sure if this is a new restriction. iPhone photos are typically larger than that. I had to use the computer to resize them.

IMG_0318_small.jpg IMG_0320_small.jpg IMG_0319.jpeg IMG_0331_small.jpg IMG_0332_small.jpg

[cv2065]

I think I figured it out. The administrator mentioned they have to be less than 2 MB. Not sure if this is a new restriction. iPhone photos are typically larger than that. I had to use the computer to resize them.

IMG_0318_small.jpg IMG_0320_small.jpg IMG_0319.jpeg IMG_0331_small.jpg IMG_0332_small.jpg

Looking good! If you store your photos on Photobucket, you can post them any size you want. Also keeps the album together. Costs $10 a month, but worth it during the build to me.

[rickster991]

I got the go-kart back so I can finish some final items on the list before giving it back for assembly after the body is painted. It's good to have it back. I missed it!

IMG_0881.jpg IMG_0882.jpg

Step 1 was to relocate the heat exchange and wiper motor mount so that I can access the windshield bolts more easily. It was next to impossible for me to get my hand in there the way I had it. I also decided to add some rivet nuts to the wiper motor mount so I can remove it without needing to remove the panel if I need to.

IMG_0903.jpg IMG_0904.jpg

The next task was to move the water temperature sensor. I originally placed it using the opening near the thermostat. The problem with this location was that I was not getting an accurate reading until the thermostat opened. This location can bee seen in the picture of the new installed sensor. So I bought an in-line hose adapter to move it to the main heater hose line. Here is the link: https://a.co/d/04DJS4CF The supplied sensor would not fit. After speaking to SpeedHut they confirmed I could cut the sensor as long as it was below the demarcation ring.

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After reading some posts about wiring the Neutral Safety switch, I learned that it is necessary to use a relay instead of using the TKO circuit directly. So I rewired it using a relay. While I was there I decided to install the clutch safety switch as well. These are wired in parallel so that I can start the motor with either. I then attached the relay in a place I could easily get to it if needed. I tested the wiring before connecting the starter solenoid wire and it worked correctly. So I then wired the starter and it worked in both scenarios!

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And then finally I attached a Cobra emblem to the steering wheel. I like the look. I may add a black ring around it later.

IMG_0913.jpg

[rickster991]

I have this strange issue with gauges. The back light is always on. Even when the key is off. I checked all the wiring and it is correct. I sent this video to Speedhut and they agreed. They are sending me a new dimmer. Hopefully it solves my issue.

https://youtube.com/shorts/jYZdPmACpl4?feature=share

[rickster991]

UPDATE: SpeedHut sent me a new Zero Dimmer and it fixed the issue I was having. Must have been a faulty unit.

Fired up the engine and the temp sensor in the new location works perfectly. It started registering at 125 degrees, and matched the sniper readings.

[rickster991]

I installed a Heidts valve to reduce the power steering help. I started the car to test for leaks and it’s all good. I chose to install a pressure gauge to make it easier to adjust. It did not register anything??? Anyone install one before? Did I place it on the correct port? It is installed with the wording facing forward, so you are seeing the back of the valve in the picture. The gauge is on the “Pressure In” port.

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[rickster991]

UPDATE: Heidts valve helped. Steering feels much better. I turned it 6 turns counterclockwise. After speaking with Heidts the gauge goes on the high-pressure out port. AND it only shows pressure when you turn the wheel not in static mode.

[rickster991]

The last thing I needed to get done before returning the go-kart to the painter was to route the AC vents. Wow there is absolutely no room, but I was able to get it done. The first issue to solve was where to put the vents. Because of leg room I could not place them on the dash. I had to recess them back to give clearance. For the driver side I created a bracket and secured it to the dash support. The passenger side is simply directly attached to the evaporator.

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The next step was to figure out how to make my defroster function only when needed. I found some parts on Amazon to do the trick. First was a motorized damper control. I needed it quick, so my only option was a 3” 24V version. So this required a 24V relay, some 3”->2.5” adapters, and a 12V->24V step-up transformer.

IMG_1044.jpeg IMG_1048.jpeg IMG_1045.jpeg

https://a.co/d/0d19pkVi
https://a.co/d/0f0NoAne
https://a.co/d/03kBPanf
https://a.co/d/0iNg4fpc

I was able to wire it to a round LED switch that fit in the AC control panel. I connected the “normally closed”, 87a, wire to the off position and the accessory wire, 87, to the on position of the motor. The “common connect”, 30, was connected to the 24V source and the “positive trigger”, 86, was connected to the switch which was also connected to the 24V source.

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https://a.co/d/01TSqpRO

It worked! It’s funny how I’m still amazed when my contraptions actually work. My only concern is will there be enough room for the actual defrost vents. I’ll find out when I get it back to the painter. Fingers crossed!

https://youtube.com/shorts/h0P3klHAz...nu_lkW5iDwwSiT

[Mike.Bray]

IMG_1051.jpeg

As we say down here it looks like you've got 6 gallons in a 5 gallon bucket! Good luck with all that.

[rickster991]

As we say down here it looks like you've got 6 gallons in a 5 gallon bucket! Good luck with all that.

Yep!