Loose Fuse Panel Wires - How to Fix?

[AndrewIdaho]

Hello All,

As I am working through the wiring behind the dash of my MK4 as shared in my build thread, I have discovered that the wipers would not work. Using my DVM to measure the 12V at the wiper switch I discovered no voltage. I confirmed that the fuse was not blown. In looking at the fuse panel wiring, I discovered that the wiper feed wire and the radio feed wire were not connected (or come loose) as shown in the picture below.

LooseFuseWires.jpg

Short of calling FFR to get a replacement fuse panel/wiring harness, is there a way to remove the fuse contact pins in the panel so that I can re-crimp or solder in the loose wires?

My thanks in advance.

Best Regards, Andrew

[edwardb]

That's a pain... Not nice work by RF. Wiring harnesses are apparently backordered at FF. I've seen a number of kit deliveries cite that as one of their POL items with not too great promised delivery dates. So that's not a great solution unless you're willing to wait and assuming a replacement is the correction. Maybe contacting RF directly is an option to see what they say? I'd be inclined to try to fix it if possible. Does it look like the terminal sockets those wires are supposed to be in were crimped but just not crimped enough? Will the wires go back in their respective locations? Can you reach in there with needle nose pliers and perhaps get a decent squeeze and crimp. Wouldn't be my choice to crimp wires like that in general but non-critical circuits (e.g. not safety related) like the wiper and radio maybe it's an option. Soldering could work too, but only if you could remove the terminals. Soldering would melt the panel plastic if you tried to solder in place.

[Blitzboy54]

To piggyback on what Paul has said another option if you can fit the wire back in with needle nose and crimp is add a drop of solder. I agree that is not great.

Yes you can remove the socket and re crimp a new one but you need to order the right size socket and find a way to remove it from the plastic. It's not designed to be removed so you will have to pry back the plastic clips that hold it in. I don't know where you are in the build but that is going to be really hard with it installed. If you can remove the 2 bolts that hold it in and lift it out you would have better line of site.

Good luck and I am sorry that happened. Real kick in the pants.

[Mike.Bray]

Between that and the color blind technicians assembling things I'm starting to wonder about RF. This is sad.

[PMD24]

Sounds like those in the know are saying the fuse block and terminals weren't designed for any alterations or repairs. As best I can tell from your photo it looks the wires pulled out of the ACC buss and the brown buss feed is still attached. That might be loose as well. Might want to confirm that. Either way, a thought is to abandon that bus and take the ACC feed from the IGN switch to a new small fuse block mounted near the original and run new wires for the two circuits.

This approach will give a solution that you can have confidence in, and you can record what you did on your wiring schematic, including noting why the ACC bus was abandoned.

One thing to consider is the heater feed. If using a heater, that one should be checked as well. If doing a new fuse block using the ACC feed, you'll need to move the heater as well. If the heater is ok and you want to leave it, you could just add another wire to the IGN ACC for your new fuse block.

Pat

[AndrewIdaho]

My thanks to all who have responded. Today, I took my bore scope to get a better view of the wire side of the terminals:
FuseConnect1.JPG

It appears that, both crimps were made but that the wires were not fully pushed in and so did not take.

Following Paul's advice, I contacted RF and they indicated the following to remove the fuse terminal:

From the fuse side, use a small screwdriver or paper clip to release the tabs on the fuse terminal. There is a lock tab top and bottom of the terminal. The tool will need to go in about 3/8" - 1/2". When you are ready to reinstall the terminal, bend the lock tabs out a little bit so they will lock back in place.

I will attempt to get the wiper contact removed and see if it can be reused or if I need to get a replacement connector.

Update: After spending 2 hours with no success in finding the release tabs, I have given up and will follow Pat's advice and get a new fuse panel to relocate the ACC feed (using Blue Sea Systems 5045 ST Blade Fuse Block Compact 4-Circuit with Cover, 100 Amps).

My thanks for the help and suggestions.

Best Regards, Andrew

[PMD24]

Sorry to hear that Andrew. Would have been nice to be able to slide those out and re-crimp them. Thanks for sharing the details. May help someone facing a similar issue.

Pat

[Redstang69]

You probably won't be able to find/see the lock tabs. Pretty much just need a thin piece of metal that's a little narrower than the terminal and just slide one in above and below the terminal.
If you can sacrifice two small screwdrivers that might work. I say sacrifice because you'll prob have to grind the round shaft of the screwdrivers flat to allow them to push far enough in to release the locks.

[AndrewIdaho]

Just to close on my thread, I chose not to modify any screw drivers in attempt to remove contacts per Redstang69 suggestion. Instead, today I installed the new fuse block to handle the ACC Feed circuits of Heater, Wiper, Gauge Feed and Radio. I am happy with how it turned out and now my wipers, heater, radio and gauge feed work! Below are some pictures of the install:

NewAccFuseBlock5.jpg NewAccFuseBlock1.jpg NewAccFuseBlock4.jpg

Again, my thanks for all the help and support. Let me know if there are questions.

Best Regards, Andrew

[jengum]

Relay or battery fed? If relay what source did you use for trigger?

[AndrewIdaho]

Relay or battery fed? If relay what source did you use for trigger?

Hi Jen,

It is not relay fed but indirectly battery fed from the ignition switch using the ACC Feed - IGN SW wire. Since my RF harness had 2 of the 4 ACC Feed Fuse harness wires loose and since I could not remove the contacts (with out special tools) I chose, per Pat's suggestion, to replicate the ACC FED section of the RF Fuse Panel. The following, from the Chassis Harness manual, is what I replicated by cutting the remaining wires off of the RF fuse panel ACC FED section and routing them to the new fuse block.

AccFuseDiag.jpg

I hope that helps.

Best Regards, Andrew