Dave and Sheri Build a 30th Anniversary MkV - Coil Covers, Heater Hose

[Dave Howard]

The drive train has been ordered. The lead time for the M-6007-A50SCD Aluminator, the TKX and the Roush supercharger is a little longer than other components so I had the controls pack and clutch hydraulic master cylinder shipped separately. They arrived which allowed me to tidy up some loose ends in the left footbox. The fly-by-wire gas pedal was modified as per the FFR instructions.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1762697436

Unlike the Gen1 version of this assembly, the pedal pad no longer has a swivel end. It was a PITA and I simply tied it back with a zip tie on my 2012 build. The instructions calls for the pedal pad to be removed, flipped 180 degrees and re-secured on a shortened pedal. This was done but I didn't like how the pad was positioned. I modified the pad by removing some of the material from one back corner.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1762697436
The pedal was installed and checked for clearance with the footbox inside wall. The pedal touched at wide open throttle so it was removed and the pad notch extended. The next fit had ample room between the footbox wall.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1762698209
The original 0.75" Wilwood master cylinder I had intended to use for the clutch was replaced with a larger diameter for easier clutch movement. A stainless steel line with AN fittings was attached and routed over the top of the steering shaft toward the transmission tunnel. I will route this through the same opening in the aluminum panel I made for the rear brake lines. The master cylinder was connected to the Scotts Hotrod remote reservoir. I couldn't come straight into the footbox with a 90 degree barb like I did with the brakes because of frame steel in that area. So, I elected to come down off the reservoir and bring the hose up and to the outside of the footbox next to where the front electrical harness comes through the outer front footbox panel. The line passes through a protective grommet.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1762698209

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...=1762698209The clutch position switch was also installed. I won't be able to do the final adjustment on the mounting location until the line is connected to the slave and the system filled and bled.

[Dave Howard]

While wrapping my head around the electrical wiring layout I decided to veer off a little. Mostly to take some time and decide on which way to go with the various wiring harnesses.
After an extensive internet search I found a heater option that looks like it will work in the MKV. From the onset of the build, I had decided not to use the FFR supplied heater/AC unit mainly because I wasn't intending on installing AC and I didn't want $1,000 of AC components sitting in the corner of the garage. I found a reasonably priced compact heater at Southern Rods and Parts. They supplied the heater, flexible ducting, the simple mechanical heater control valve , the pull cable (choke cable), The fan switch and the defrost vents. I still need to source ball vents for footbox heating. The knob on the choke cable was painted matt black to match other knobs on the dash and a vintage Lucas style "HEATER" knob was bought to replace the one on the heater fan switch. I used simple 2"x2" angle bracket to mount the heater in the passenger footbox in the same location as the FFR unit would go. It fit perfectly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1763384356
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1763384356

I then tackled more sound deadening in the cockpit using Kilmat. The rear transmission sides were installed. The pins in the electrical connectors for the heated seats were removed from the plastic plugs in order to fish the wires through holes and grommets in the panels. Seam sealer and aluminum HVAC tape was used to cover any opening in the cockpit panels prior to laying down the sound deadening material. The Kilmat went on quickly in mostly full sheets. Packing paper in the FFR parts boxes made excellent templating material for the smaller pieces. A second box of Kilmat is on order to complete the floors and tackle the trunk.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1763384356

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1763384356

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1763384436

[Dave Howard]

The electrical system comprises a few different harnesses from the Ron Francis kit and the Ford Performance controls pack. I mounted the Ford Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to the mount provided in the FFR kit and attempted to find a suitable spot to place it. I don't have the engine yet to install and based on my experience with the Gen1 Coyote installation on my previous build the length of the engine wiring harness will be the limiting factor. The FFR mount for the PCM is not going to work for me for the MKV. The PCM will be in located at the front of the right footbox. I'll either place it on top of the footbox or in front mounted to frame tubing.

The chassis wiring harness fuse panel was mounted in the location mentioned earlier.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1763650034

I could only find one LED flasher in the kit components and have ordered another from Amazon. They will be grounded together at the same location. The harness was laid out and the dash clamped in place to see how it all fits. I have the ignition switch mounted in the dash to the left of the steering wheel. The "ignition" leg of the chassis harness is 1/2 way down the harness so I busted into the the loom and moved it much closer to the fuse panel end of the harness. These wires will be cut back to a more suitable length and new ring connectors used when the final connection is made to the ignition switch. Wires not required were removed and the entire harness was wrapped with cloth tape. The harness was laid out again and the main harness secured to the frame with a large modified insulated clamp. The main harness is run over the top of the steering wheel with the "front harness", "ignition" and "turn signal" legs facing down to the left of the steering column. The inertia switch was installed to the right of the steering column. It must be placed vertically with the plug pointing down in order to function properly.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1763650118

It became apparent the leg going to the "Starter Solenoid" wasn't going to be long enough to reach the starter on the Coyote based power plant. As mentioned in my post #69, I've installed aluminum panels from Snakebite that form a nice "electrical compartment" under the FFR supplied front transmission cover. This will house some electrical components. Here's the plan so far. Mount the battery as per FFR instructions. Run the positive lead back to the "electrical compartment". Attach to one side of the Ford control pack 250A main fuse mounted in the "electrical compartment". From the fuse, run a lead to a battery disconnect switch. This will be mounted on the FFR front transmission cover. A jumper will be installed for memory power. The other terminal of the disconnect switch will be connected to the "Starter Solenoid" leg of the chassis harness, and a line run to the starter.
I also noticed there will be a large amount of extra wire from the rear chassis harness. My plan is to cut this back to a more suitable length and make permanent solder connections instead of the supplied connectors. I'll do the same for the front harness connection and the turn signal connection. This will help to de-clutter an already busy drivers footbox.

I laid out the Ford control pack Power Distribution Box (PDB) and harness. FFR provide a mounting bracket and suggests mounting the box on top of the right footbox. I've decided to mount the PDB in the "electrical compartment" up against the X frame. There is enough room and the FFR front transmission cover will be removable. The cables will come up in behind the dash. The main harness to the PCM is plenty long enough that Ill attempt to route it to the far right of the firewall so the through wall grommet is not visible.

The Ford control pack transmission harness was modified. Two plugs for CMS LH/RH (Catalytic Monitoring System) were removed and the wires cut back to the main harness plug. Hot wires were capped with heat shrink.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1763650034

[Dave Howard]

I had a couple of 04:00 mornings with the wheels in motion about my choice of location for the remote reservoirs. Some great comments from Jeff Kleiner that I couldn't get out of my thoughts. So, the brake reservoirs were siphoned empty, the transfer tubing removed, and the remote reservoirs moved to the outside of the right square tube coming out of the front of the drivers footbox. This location still meets my desire to keep the reservoirs out of the engine bay and should be easier to access with the body on. I was able to use the existing holes in the footbox front to pass the transfer hoses through. Sheri helped with the brake bleeding and we should be back on track again. Thanks Jeff.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1764210701
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1764210701

[Dave Howard]

After my initial electrical layout last week, I got started with modifying harnesses to make them fit, and started with permanent connections. The exact routing for the Coyote Control Pack harness in the drivers footbox was determined. The leg with the plug for the accelerator pedal wasn't long enough, so the loom was opened up and the location where the leg splits off from the main harness was shifted resulting in it being longer, allowing the plug to reach the pedal. In addition, the branch going off to the clutch position switch was shortened by at least 12 inches. The PAS (Passive Antitheft System) plug and wires were removed. The DataLink Connector and MIL branch was also shortened and the connector was mounted to the left of the steering column on the diagonal support at the front of the footbox. The C160A connector was removed. The green wires was soldered directly and only the two wires required for the Coil/crank connection with the chassis harness were kept. The other wires were removed and the ends sealed with shrinkwarp. The branch from the main harness to the ignition switch was cut to length and new ring connectors secured in place. The leads were then secured to the ignition switch. The connectors for the front wiring harness to the main chassis harness were removed. Solid solder connection covered with heat shrink were made. The plug connection for the self canceling turn indicators was also removed and the branch shortened by 12-14 inches. Again, all wire connections are soldered and covered with heat shrink. Once branches of the harness were completed, the loom was re-wrapped with cloth tape.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1764214081

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https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1764210701

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The PDB and the 250A fuse were permanently mounted to the X frame at the rear of the engine compartment. Sound deadening was applied to the aluminum pieces from Snakebite.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1764210749

[Dave Howard]

We took a break from the roadster build while Sheri and I surprised friends in Huatulco Mexico. Got back into the groove after coming home and getting ready for Christmas. Picked up with the electrical installation.

I started with the main power cables. Although the battery is not yet installed, I laid out the short battery cable from the front of the frame just behind the steering rack, back to the inside of the right footbox where the starter will be for the Aluminator. I took a measurement from my Gen 1 Coyote. Next, I ran a longer battery cable from this location back and up into the "electrical compartment" under the front transmission cover. I went through the bottom of the Snakebite panel. My intent was to limit the number of cables visibly protruding through the firewall. This cable crossed the "electrical compartment" to a cut off switch I installed in the left side transmission panel. It is up high enough so it will be not be visible with the dash in place, and it will not be in the way. The cut off switch has a Keep Alive Memory Jumper installed. Another battery cable runs from the cut off switch to the 250A main fuse. The fuse acts as a main power bus. The Power for the Aluminator PDB is connected here, as is the Alternator cable and the main power leads in the Ron Francis chassis harness designated for the starter. The blue starter wire was removed. Next, controllers for the heated seats and the E-Stopp electric parking brake were installed. Power feed and control wires for the heated seats were cut back to the required length. Wires to the push buttons on the dash will be extended. The power cable from the E-Stopp actuator was brought across the transmission tunnel and zip tied to the rear chassis harness. A hole was drilled in the Snakebite transmission panel. The rear chassis harness and the E-Stopp were brought up into the "electrical compartment". Again, keeping them out of sight. Power for the E-Stopp controller is recommended to come directly from the battery. Therefore the power and ground wires where extended and placed in a separate loom. This was secured to the Ford control pack harness and brought forward towards the location where the PCM will be located. Two other wires from the controller will be extended. One is for an indicator light and the other goes to the ignition switch.

The rear chassis harness connectors and 14" of loom and wires were removed. Connection to the main harness was solder joints protected with heat shrink.

The fuel pump wire in the Ford control pack harness was brought to the fuse panel of the main harness. A connection was made as per instructions to allow the PCM to control the fuel pump. Also, the EFI crank and coil wires in the main harness were connected to the starter wire and ignition relay trigger wire in the Ford harness.

The sending unit harness was taken apart and the electric choke and fan thermo sw wires removed. At the same time, the tachometer signal harness (yellow wire) was put into the harness. A hole was drilled low in the Snakbite front panel and a large supplied grommet installed. The sending unit harness and the alternator power cable were fished through the grommet and brought forward. The connectors on the send unit harness were removed and connections made with solder and heatshrink.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1766021773

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The bulk of the chassis electrical system is now in place. Ill still need to make final connections to the engine which is due to arrive by the end of the month. The dash also needs to be wired. I will keep the dash harness connectors in case the dash ever needs to be removed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1766021908

[Dave Howard]

A few more pictures.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1766021908
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[Dave Howard]

Some of the wires and connectors removed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1766021963

[Dave Howard]

Today, we worked at tidying up a few wires behind the dash. The blue wire from the E-Stopp controller was extended and run to the "ignition" terminal on the ignition switch. Wires to the heated seat switches were also lengthened. The FFR front transmission cover was modified to accommodate harnesses coming up out of the "electrical compartment". I haven't determined how I will secure the panel in place. It will need to be removable. The dash was clamped in place so I can start making connections to switches and gauges. There appears to be lots of room between the dash and the firewall. The photos shows the harnesses coming up from the front transmission cover are hidden.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1766099162
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1766099162
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1766099162

[RobHartley]

Just and idea, check out Reddrig's implementation, he cut the upper transmission cover into two pieces one piece hidden under dash and other side screwed for access - completed interior later in his build looks great and you can't see the second panel. Thinking of this for my build as it will allow access to this area. Here is a link to where he shows the cut https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post587904
Reddrig tran cover.jpg

Today, we worked at tidying up a few wires behind the dash. The blue wire from the E-Stopp controller was extended and run to the "ignition" terminal on the ignition switch. Wires to the heated seat switches were also lengthened. The FFR front transmission cover was modified to accommodate harnesses coming up out of the "electrical compartment". I haven't determined how I will secure the panel in place. It will need to be removable. The dash was clamped in place so I can determine the required length for lengthened today. There appears to be lots of room between the dash and the firewall. The photos shows the harnesses coming up from the front transmission cover are hidden.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1766099162
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1766099162
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1766099162

[Dave Howard]

Just and idea, check out Reddrig's implementation, he cut the upper transmission cover into two pieces one piece hidden under dash and other side screwed for access - completed interior later in his build looks great and you can't see the second panel. Thinking of this for my build as it will allow access to this area. Here is a link to where he shows the cut https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post587904
Reddrig tran cover.jpg

Thanks for link to Reddrigs build. I like the idea of splitting that front transmission cover. It should make it a lot easier to install and remove if required in the future.

[Dave Howard]

Moved on with electrical projects by wiring the dash. I started by drilling the dash in two locations to install the control access buttons for the vintage gauge tach and speedometer. This caused the clear coat to lift and I've resided to the fact that I'll need to strip and re-spray the dash. I'll do that later when I'm sure there are no other mods required on the dash. The buttons were installed at the 4 o'clock position on each gauge. I did not install the button for the fuel gauge. Once the gauge is calibrated there should be no need for this button. Excess wire on the buttons was removed making for a very short run. Next, the gauge lighting, accessory power and ground wires for the gauges were run to the terminal strips provided. The strips were glued to the back of the dash with some JB Weld. I also used the electronic dimmer control that came with the gauges. The button for this was installed out of sight in the lower lip of the dash pointing down. I then clamped the dash in place and started to make the necessary connections to gauges and switched. First, The Ron Francis (RF) dash harness was taken apart and separated into its three main components. The oil pressure gauge wiring harness uses three wires rather than two. Therefore, I ran the provided harness from the dash area through the grommet at the front of the transmission tunnel forward along the left side. For the oil temperature, water temperature and fuel gauge wiring harnesses I cut off the gauge end of each harness and made connections with the appropriate wires in the RF harness. Wires were cut to length, but long enough to allow the dash to be removed if required in the future. The tach signal wire was installed earlier. I've elected not to install the clock. I NEVER look at it on my 2012 build. Instead, I've opted to install an oil temperature gauge.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1768476718
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Switch wiring next. The headlight switch is pre-wired in the RF harness....easy. There is a mess of wires provided if a dash mounted turn signal switch is being used. These aren't required since the turn signal control is mounted and wired on the steering column. Most of these wires were cut back and terminated with heat shrink except for a left and right wire. These were connected to the "Turn Signal and High Beam Harness" for the speedometer, and spliced to indicator lights provided in the kit from FFR. Likewise, the high beam wire in the RF harness was connected and spliced in a similar manner. The High Beam switch did not come with a wiring diagram. I spent a few minutes with a multimeter to figure it out and ran the appropriate wires from the RF harness. Same for the horn button.

I had to install switches for the E-Stopp parking brake, the heater fan and temperature control in the lower section of the carbon fibre dash. This again caused the clear coat to lift. The E-Stopp control wires were extended to reach the switch. The "Heater" wire from the RF harness was cut to length for the fan switch. Two separate wires were run to the heater for low and high speed. The "wiper" wire from the RF harness was run in a separate loom and will go through an opening in the firewall along with the main harness to the Ford ECM. The wiper motor was taken out of the box and the mounting location determined. There is no mention in the MKV assembly manual. I referred to the Type 65 manual. I'm glad I did this before mounting something else in this location.

Note...I used stab type connectors to make the connections on the switches. Other connections were made with male/female butt connectors. This allows the dash to be completely separated without having to cut wires. All connections were labelled and wire placed back in loom and wrapped with cloth tape.

I have left a few unused wires in place in case I require a circuit in the future. I'll cut these back once the power train is installed and operational.

With the dash wiring complete, I turned my attention back to the front transmission cover. The cover was modified further to allow cabling to exit from the "electrical compartment" below. Then the panel was cut into two pieces as was suggested by RobHartley and documented in a post from Reddrig's build thread. The upper most smaller piece will be permanently fixed in place. The lower cover will be removable in the event of electrical troubleshooting on the future.

Finally, dash mounts were fabricated and installed. I used some 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum flat bar to make simple L brackets for the top of the dash, and supports at the bottom. The L brackets are riveted to the under side of the steel dash hoop while the lower support brackets are riveted to the underside of the 2" square tube. I ran some thin self adhesive foam long the steel dash hoop to act as a cushion between the dash and the hoop. The dash is held securely with black screws provided from FFR. Four attachment points along the top and only two supports on the bottom of the dash approximately 6-8" in from the ends.

[Dave Howard]

Additional photos
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1768476945
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1768477054
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1768477054
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[Dave Howard]

Additional photos
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1768477054

And after 6 months, my rims arrived from China.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1768476876

[Dave Howard]

I'm waiting for the power train. Apparently, the engine has been assembled but shipped with the wrong wiring harness. All the other components (clutch, bellhousing, transmission, supercharger) are ready to be shipped. So, I'm tackling a small project with the wheel spinners. To be clear, I've NEVER had an issue with the wheel spinners on my 2012 build. If you keep the threads clean and only tighten them finger tight, the set screw will hold them in place and they will always come off when you want them too. My only minor issue has been the center hub falling out when taking the wheels off. So, for this build I've incorporated the mod suggested by Michael Everson to hold the hub in the wheel. Amazon provided M4 x 10mm stainless steel split roll pins and the 68mm ID stainless steel retainer rings. A small blind hole was drilled into the back side of each spinner hub and the split pins pushed into place using my bench vice. I then decided to give the hubs a few passes on the pedestal buffer to shine things up. The spinner has quite a rough surface that didn't take well to the buffing wheel. I may send these out for powder coat.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1769088095
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My battery and mount arrived. I haven't decided where to place the battery. Most builders put the battery up front behind the steering rack. I may place mine in the trunk. I'll wait until the power train arrives. The supercharger kit will include a small coolant tank that I hope can be placed behind the steering rack. Looking forward to this part of the build.

[Sharris2]

I'm going to do the same thing with the roll pins; what size drill bit did use?
Thanks

[Dave Howard]

I'm going to do the same thing with the roll pins; what size drill bit did use?
Thanks

I used a 5/32" drill. It made for a snug fit. I used a drop of oil to drill the hole and a drop to help push the pin into place.

Flying out of Pearson tomorrow PM for a well deserved rest in Trinidad. ERIE

[Sharris2]

Thanks, have a great trip; your leaving at the right time getting away from this cooooold

[wheelindex]

I had a couple of 04:00 mornings with the wheels in motion about my choice of location for the remote reservoirs. Some great comments from Jeff Kleiner that I couldn't get out of my thoughts. So, the brake reservoirs were siphoned empty, the transfer tubing removed, and the remote reservoirs moved to the outside of the right square tube coming out of the front of the drivers footbox. This location still meets my desire to keep the reservoirs out of the engine bay and should be easier to access with the body on. I was able to use the existing holes in the footbox front to pass the transfer hoses through. Sheri helped with the brake bleeding and we should be back on track again. Thanks Jeff.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1764210701
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1764210701

How easy is it to get to them to check the fluid level with the body on (or can you). I had seen where PaulB did this location, and was also looking at the location that is to the right of the footbox. I am going to convert it to a 3AN line instead of the rubber hose and spoke to Wilwood on this, but location -- I am iffy about. You have beautiful reservoirs - why hide them?

[Dave Howard]

How easy is it to get to them to check the fluid level with the body on (or can you). I had seen where PaulB did this location, and was also looking at the location that is to the right of the footbox. I am going to convert it to a 3AN line instead of the rubber hose and spoke to Wilwood on this, but location -- I am iffy about. You have beautiful reservoirs - why hide them?

Like my build in 2012, I’m trying to keep as much “stuff” as I can out of the engine bay. It’s going to fill up fast with the Aluminator and supercharger. I’ve also chosen a different spot for the engine PDB and wiring runs for the same reason. It’s documented in earlier posts in this thread.

[Dave Howard]

I'm still waiting for the power train to arrive so I'm doing what I can to keep moving forward. I tackled a mod to the turn signal stock. I'm using a competition dash layout. The dash was assembled earlier in the project. The oil and water temperature gauges are clustered around the steering column and impede the use of the FFR supplied turn signal stock. I reached out to the guys at Blue Hills Customs who figured out how to install a collar around the steering shaft and place the turn stock to the collar on the outside of the dash. The other end of the collar has a "Millenium Falcon" shaped piece that actuates the self cancelling turn signal mechanism. They were kind enough to send me the digital files for 3D printing the parts required. After some consideration I decided to make my own pieces from aluminum. I started by using the FFR supplied turn signal stock locating template to fabricate my own "Millenium Falcon". A few attempts were transferred to card stock and a prototype piece was made from 1/8" aluminium. This design had the Falcon secured to the turn signal mechanism directly using the attachment location of the FFR supplied turn signal stock. That didn't work. The arch of the Falcon as it turns is different than the arch of the turn signal mechanism. This led me to fabricate a small steel piece that attaches to the turn signal mechanism at the turn stock location, but extend out to the left. A smooth socket head bolt was attached to this piece to act as the interface between the Falcon and the turn signal mechanism. A second prototype was made from card stock. After a morning of measuring, cutting, tweaking, I came up with a design that seemed to work. This pattern was transferred to 1/8" aluminum. The centre 3/4" hole was rough cut with a step drill. The outer cuts made with a hack saw and the edges smoothed with filing and sanding. A 1/8" washer/spacer was made to keep the Flacon away from and interfering with the turn signal mechanism.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1771171072
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Next, a piece of thick wall pipe (1.5" OD x 3/4' ID) was purchased for the collar. It slid over the steering shaft and rotates smoothly without binding. One end of the pipe was cut clean and true from the supplier. This end was used for the collar. The Falcon was attached to the end of the pipe after drilling and tapping to accept flat head machine screws. Due to my steering wheel placement, I will require a 2" long collar and I will need to modify the steering wheel hub. I could attempt to tackle this myself with a hacksaw but don't feel comfortable enough that I could cut through the pipe square. A small local machine shop was contacted to help with this. Once I get the pieces back I will determine the location for the turn stock. The collar will be drilled and tapped. I also spent some time fabricating a custom bezel for the steering column. Lots of filing and sanding involved but I think its going to work.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1771076805
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1771076924

[Dave Howard]

I also tackled the sound deadening in the trunk area and installed carpeting to the trunk sides while the body is still off and access is much easier. Openings or gaps between aluminum pieces and the frame were first filling with aluminum tape and automotive seam sealer. A few of the carpet pieces needed to trimmed to fit properly. The frame was protected with painters tape before applying the 3M Super 77 contact adhesive. I'll do some carpeting in the foot boxes also. I still have a couple of holes to drill in the passenger footbox for the heater hoses. I'll do that after the engine is installed and I can determine the actual placement.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1771076924
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https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1771077001
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[Sharris2]

So I was considering your E stop modification like what you are doing for my coupe; I used the E stop in my MK4. How did you stop the rod end with the eye bolt from spinning?

[Dave Howard]

I haven't done anything specific to prevent the rod eye end of the E-Stopp actuator from spinning. The actuator ram has enough internal resistance that I don't think this will be an issue. If required, the eyebolt could secured to the brake cable bracket with a nut on both sides of the bracket.

I'm anxious to power up my electrical system and give the E-Stopp a test. I really didn't like the appearance of the FFR supplied E-brake handle sticking up from the top of the transmission tunnel.

So I was considering your E stop modification like what you are doing for my coupe; I used the E stop in my MK4. How did you stop the rod end with the eye bolt from spinning?

[Sharris2]

You may want to test it first; I bench tested mine hooked up with the button and it won't stop spinning. I feel the pin in the cable end in the housing is what it needs to engage it to stop. I reassembled mine and it worked fine.

[Dave Howard]

You may want to test it first; I bench tested mine hooked up with the button and it won't stop spinning. I feel the pin in the cable end in the housing is what it needs to engage it to stop. I reassembled mine and it worked fine.

You got me thinking so I put some power to the E-Stopp. Sure enough, the actuator rod had a tendency to spin. To stop this, I put an additional nut on the eyebolt (tension adjustment) to securely sandwich the eyebolt onto the bracket holding the e-brake cable ends.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1771367466

This solved the problem. The actuator rod twists about 15 degrees when the brake is applied then returns back to original position when the brake is disengaged. The mount appears to be fine. I took a video but not sure how to download it to the forum.

[Dave Howard]

Still waiting for the powertrain. The latest correspondence was the assembly is completed and being crated for shipment. Not sure what that means as the order was for ALL the components separately. I intended to do the assembly. I've moved on to installing the seats. First, I placed the seats in the cockpit with the dash roughed in and the steering wheel attached to better understand how the new frame design and seat height will feel. You definitely sit lower in the car than previous roadster variants. Seats were placed as far back as possible to start.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1772235051

Rather than having the seat frame perpendicular to the car centerline I found it was more comfortable to have them turned slightly outward. Pointing in the direction of their respective footboxes. Seat bottoms were removed and the seat bottom frame outline was marked onto the floor of the cockpit. I then measure and drew lines for the frame members and seat pan. This gave me the location for possible mounting points.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1772235051
My 2012 build included the Installation Kit for Steel Frame "Classic" Seats from Breeze. This raised the front of the seat and allowed 4 positions of adjustment. It was really tough to reach the nuts holding the incline piece in place and I wound up keeping the seat in one location. I'm 6'2" and my line of sight is through the top of the windshield frame. The redesigned MkV frame has lowered the seat by a few inches which will certainly help. I didn't want the seats sitting flat on the floor. Rather than mounting the seats with the Breeze product, I decided to make my own spacers, and decided not to incline the seat like my last build. The spacer on the passenger side was made out of a length of 1/8" 1.5"x1.5" angle iron. Two 13' lengths of angle were cut then welded together to make a 1.5"x1.5" square tube.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1772235132
My 110 wire feed welder was at the maximum of its capabilities. I made several stitch welds along both sides of the tube where the edges of the angle iron met. I'm using the FFR supplied seat tracks on the drivers side only. The height of the seat track is 7/8" so the final dimension for the drivers side spacer was 1.5"x5/8". This would ensure the two seat sit at the same height. The 1.5"x 1.5" angle iron for the drivers side was cut with an angle grinder to 1.5"x 5/8". The drivers side spacer was not welded initially. The bottom half of the spacer was placed on the floor and mounting holes located and drilled through the seat pan and the spacer. Stainless steel 5/16"-18 button head socket head cap screws from Amazon were used to secure it in place. They were fed from the underside of the frame up so both ends of the fastener could be accessed when the spacer was welded.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1772235443
The length of the fasteners were cut so the end would fit in the small space within the spacer. Next, the top of the spacer was loosely put in place and the mounting location for the seat track was determined. Holes were drilled and the two halves of the spacer welded together on the bench. The spacer/seat track assemblies had to be mounted to the frame parallel to each other, thus allowing the seat track to move smoothly and not bind. The location of mounting holes in the seat frame was determined and holes drilled. FFR supplied stainless steal button head screws were used to secure the seat to the tracks.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1772235516
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1772235516
The passenger side installation was easier. The welded spacers were laid on the floor and holes located and drilled through the seat pan. Again, fasteners going up through the floor and secured with a nut inside the spaced. To get the nuts on the end of the button head cap screws inside the spacer a piece of tape was attached to the end of an open end 1/2" wrench and the nut stuck to the tape. The wrench was fished down the spacer and eventually the screw caught the nut. I'm happy with how the project turned out. The spacers will be heading out to powder coat on Monday. The best $20 I'll spend that day. I purchased plastic end covers for the spacers from Amazon to finish things off.

[Dave Howard]

Seat installation spacers ready for powdercoat.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1772235516

[Sharris2]

Glad it worked out; I didn't do the modification as it wouldn't work in the coupe. I ended up putting it behind the driver's seat area then routed the cables up and behind the passenger seat; works well.

[Dave Howard]

The power train has finally arrived.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1773359952
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1773493081

- Ford "Aluminator" M-6007-A50SCD
- Roush supercharger P/N 422292
- Quicktime bellhousing
- McLeod RST twin disc clutch
- External hydraulic clutch slave
- Tremec TKX

The package was purchased through the FFR Canadian representative, Valin Custom cars. Ryan Valin ordered the package through Forte Parts Connection. The components arrived fully assembled including the power steering pump. Details about the Aluminator and supercharger are included in the attached photos.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1773505189
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1773505189
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1773493417

My Gen 1 Coyote (2012) was shipped with cast iron lifting brackets. The newer Coyotes still have the mounting holes at the back of the right cylinder head and the front of the left cylinder head....but no lifting brackets. Luckily, I still the brackets from my 2012 build. But, they are with my son in British Columbia. Already in them mail back to me. Meanwhile, I've started to prep to power train for installation. Sensors for the Speedhut oil pressure , oil temperature and water temperature have been installed. Oil temperature will be taken from the oil pan. Fit for the FFR supplied headers was confirmed prior to removing the header studs.

There is a mess of piping and tubing that I don't like the looks of. I need to do some research through the Roush literature to determine what is needed and what can be removed. I'll be changing some hoses out for stainless steel braided. There is provision for the heater hoses. Roush provide a nice set of coil covers that help hide at the messy wires and piping.
Looking forward to receiving the lifting brackets and getting the power train in the car.

[Dave Howard]

A few more pictures.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1773493184
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1773493184
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1773493368
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1773493417
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1773493184

[Ejzajac]

WOW!
The Aluminator with the Roush looks incredible and makes my Gen 3 Coyote fit to power a lawn mower! I have the same power steering pump and external hydraulic clutch slave. Interested in your thoughts on plumbing them and location for reservoirs, especially the PS reservoir. There's just not a lot of room left in the engine bay. Curious what you are considering for a coolant overflow system? The Snakebite panels really let one hide a lot of components out of the engine bay. Hopefully with a removable front tunnel cover, they are reachable in the future.
Ed Z

[Dave Howard]

WOW!
The Aluminator with the Roush looks incredible and makes my Gen 3 Coyote fit to power a lawn mower! I have the same power steering pump and external hydraulic clutch slave. Interested in your thoughts on plumbing them and location for reservoirs, especially the PS reservoir. There's just not a lot of room left in the engine bay. Curious what you are considering for a coolant overflow system? The Snakebite panels really let one hide a lot of components out of the engine bay. Hopefully with a removable front tunnel cover, they are reachable in the future.
Ed Z

My Gen1 Coyote build was tuned in at just shy of 490 HP. Lots of fun the drive. It builds power quickly from 3,500 rpm to the rev limiter. This new build is going to be totally different. I’m anxious to see how this one handles.
I was pleasantly surprised to see the 2 reservoirs and the coolant pump that came with the supercharger are relatively small. I’ll determine mounting location once the engine is installed. I haven’t mounted the battery yet in case it needs to go in the trunk. I’m thinking I’ll use stainless steel braided hose for all the visible plumbing, including the heater hoses.
For coolant overflow, I bought a Mishimoto tank. Same as I have on my MkIV. That’s not going to easily work for this build. Again, I need to get the power train in the chassis and see what room is left.

[PNWTim]

Well, I'm thinking that's probably going to push it along nicely!

[Dave Howard]

I still have the lifting brackets from my Gen 1 Coyote build in 2012.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1773944340
They are with my son in British Columbia. I looked at purchasing another set and found the cheapest was $180 US with shipping. Ummmm....For one use I don't think so. Needless to say, the originals have been shipped back to me. I hope Ford didn't change the bolt pattern. I need to remove the engine from the shipping stand before installing the starter and the engine/transmission mounts.

Meanwhile, I started looking at some of the plumbing and electrical connections. There are two vacuum hoses off the supercharger that aren't needed. One goes to the brake booster and the other goes to the EECPV (Canister Purge Valve). This is also not being used so the hoses were removed and the taps plugged with silicon end plugs.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1773943863
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1773943863

The other thing noticed is the "Y" off the water pump for the expansion tank connection and the heater hose connection. My engine did not come with a "Y". The top connection that supplies the cab heater has been blanked off. Therefore, I will need to source another.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1773945788

[Dave Howard]

I got started with the installation of the Low Temperature Radiator (LTR) for the Roush supercharger intercooler. The kit from Roush is designed as a bolt on for a late model Mustang GT. I first had a look at the supplied mounting brackets to see what could be salvaged. The LTR has two mounting point at the bottom and two on the left and right side. I installed the lower bracket to the LTR with the supplied rubber bushings and fasteners.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1773943958
The assembly was then put in place in front of the FFR radiator for the initial fit. The LTF fit easily within the space. The lower mounting bracket was too long, so a few inches was removed from each end.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1773943958
I was fortune that two mounting holes in the Roush bracket lined up with the FFR lower radiator support. Holes were drilled through this support and the LTR secured at the bottom. I used 3" socket head cap screws and several larger nuts to act as a spacer, keeping the LTR and the FFR radiator separated by about 3/4".
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1773943958
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1773943958

For the two side supports, it was apparent the Roush supplied brackets could/would not be used.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1773944040
New brackets were fabricated from 1/8" aluminum. The bracket attachment points to the LTR were traced onto the back of a cereal box. From there, the rest of the brackets were drawn, cut out and test fit. Bend locations and mounting points on the FFR frame were determined. The rough brackets were cut from the aluminum plate and edges finished with hand filing. Bends were made using a piece of angle iron from the seat installation project to act as a form for the bend radius. These brackets were then mounted to the LTR and the location of holes for mounting to the FFR frame were determined. I decide to install 5M rivet nuts in the aluminum brackets and secured them to the frame with socket head cap screws. Once satisfied with the mock up, the aluminum brackets were given a polish and the steel lower bracket from Roush was removed for powder coat. This bracket came painted, but the paint was already starting to flake off. I'm happy with this installation. Next will be finding spots for the reservoir tank, the expansion tank and the pump.

[Dave Howard]

LTR side bracket fabrication. Templates drawn.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1773944040

Rough cut brackets.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1773944040
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1773944100

Brackets secured to frame.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1773944100
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1773944100

[Dave Howard]

Final product.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1773944168

Photos with body in place.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1773944168
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1773944217
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1773944217
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1773944217

[Dave Howard]

The supercharger intercooler has its own reservoir tank, pump and degas bottle. All designed to fit nicely in a late model Mustang. I had to decide where to place these items in the front of the chassis in addition to the battery. It became apparent, there wasn't enough room for everything. So, the battery was placed in the trunk on the passenger side.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1774783600

Rivet nuts were used for the 4 mounting screws. Two of these were into steel frame.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1774784622
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1774784622
Additional 4 gauge battery cable was purchased. A rubber grommet protects the cable as it comes through the bottom of the trunk aluminum. The cable runs down the passenger side of the transmission tunnel next the the E-Stopp actuator and is secured in place with stainless steel rubber covered clamps. The cable was placed in split loom and taped for protection. This cable runs forward towards the starter. Cable to power the rest of the car can be seen in the photo coming down from a grommet in the lower transmission cover installed earlier. A short ground was connected from the battery to the frame in the trunk.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1774784622
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1774784656

[Dave Howard]

The supercharger reservoir tank and pump will fit nicely just behind the steering rack. A piece of cardboard was used as a template for a platform I will fabricate from a piece of 1/8 or 3/16" aluminum.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1774783600

The tank has two mounting points on the bottom and one near the top. The pump is attached to the tank with a short section of hose. It comes with a large band clamp to mount it to the aluminum plate.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1774796869
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1774796869

It appears the degas bottle will fit on the steel angled brace just to the left of the center of the chassis. Its a small narrow tank and I don't believe it will interfere with other components. The top of the degas bottle will be slightly lower than the top of the LTR, but this will not be a problem.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1774784622

Hoses will be custom and I plan to use braided stainless steel. At this point, there doesn't appear to be any interferences. The engine bay will be quite full. I still need to find a spot for the engine degas tank and a small reservoirs for the power steering.

The power train was hoisted off the shipping pallet and moved to the front of the the car. This gave me room to inspect more closely. Good thing. One bolt missing holding the Quicktime bellhousing to the back of the engine. Also, it gave me an opportunity to inspect the clutch slave cylinder and power steering pump. NO literature for these components was provided and there are NO identification markings on them. I'll have to make a fast call to the supplier on Monday. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1774784801

Update: The supplier was contacted. The slave is a "no-name". If I have any issues I'll change it out. Thats the beauty of running an external slave. NO need to remove the transmission to change the slave. Not sure why anyone would consider using an internal slave to actuate the clutch. As for the power steering pump, its a knock off of a OEM GM Type 2 pump. All good to know if maintenance is required in the future.