Engine dress

I had assumed I would have water pump interference based solely on Pauls truck build. I am also using an LS3 so I figured the basic fit would be the same. I wanted to get out in front of it so I removed the pressed in heater corp barbs and tapped the holes before it got painted. As it turns out my engine sits higher than Paul's did but that might be because I have the extended cab? At any rate I did go a slightly different route. I found 90 degree swivel fittings 3/8 and 1/2 npt to 10AN fittings. This works nice because they are so close to each other it gives you a lot of flexibility.



Attach a 5/8 barb to 10AN and we are in business. I really like that they rotate. This give me a lot of adjust ability




I had to wait to finish the engine dress this week as I needed black hardware to go with the theme. It's a mix of metric and SAE so I figured i would just wait until I got it in the garage instead of trying to guess ahead of time size and length.





I am going to pull the valve covers and have them PC'ed black. I am now getting into wiring and I don't want to pull them later. I also decided to add steam vent kit so I have to pull the intake manifold anyhow. Mind as well get it all done now.

On to wiring. One thing I will say is the harness was clearly designed for the Roadster. I get that it is also used for all the other vehicles. I would imagine the coupe is pretty close geometrically but the truck is not. I suspect the Hotrod is the same. You can make it work but for my build I have to make a lot of modifications. I will also heavily diet this harness for the first time.

I did get the engine grounded. I have to be extra carefull to make sure I get metal to metal contact with all the paint and powder coating. I also purchased a pre made ground wire as it fits the theme. I keep a fluke with me and check all my grounds to the engine block, heads and frame. I will repeat this with virtually every circuit I add to the build.