The Gentleman's Roadster, Bismarck Build: Dash finished

[Highplainsdakota]

I appreciate it. I’m hoping to be back on track later this week.

[Highplainsdakota]

Ok, I'm back with more updates:

I was able to get the engine installed using the gantry crane I built without a lot of hassle. I needed to lift the TKX tranny up with some washers to clear the cross brace in the trans tunnel. I ended up stripping the threaded aluminum on one side of the transmission mount because the bolt was short. Now with long bolts in the same holes it's nice and tight.

After reading a few threads on the forum, someone mentioned Mike Forte puts a plate between the intake manifold and the throttle body, so I took that out. I have the sensors for the Edelbrock pro flo 4 installed except the O2 and air temp. I ended up drilling a hole in the bottom of my air filter for that sensor, but I'll install when I have more room. I installed the mechanical throttle linkage from Forte and it feels great. I added a strut from the frame to reduce unwanted motion and make the throttle responsive and accurate. The clutch master and slave cylinder were plumbed and bled.

I finished my gas lines. I used coated flexible lines from Breeze with AN fittings. I decided on a series plumbing with the regulator after the fuel rails before heading back to the tank. Forte says I need to be at 58 psi for the 363 so I'll adjust that when I get things running. I used the same hose for high pressure power steering fluid to my brake hydroboost and down to the power steering. Breeze helped me out again with the low pressure hose in a T fashion back to the reservoir. I filled it with honda power steering fluid. I'm planning on a few engine cranks with the fuel pump fuse removed to plumb all the fluids and lube the engine when the time comes. I wired the starter and installed a starter heat shield wrap per some recommendations. Can't hurt.

I have the dash secured with rivnuts and stainless bolts on top and bottom. It's really secure but I need about 1/16" foam or rubber between the dash and frame rail to keep things from rattling. The steering hub with blinkers I had made from i.e.427 is simply too long. I was really looking forward to it but I also wanted a removable steering wheel for access. I went with NRT racing for a thin quick release and it looks great. I have decided to cut a hole in the dash to sink the steering hub for even more clearance. I did lose my blinkers and horn in the process so I need to figure out where those switches will go.

I have more sensors to install on the engine for the speed hut gauges, so I have fittings ordered. I ordered a 6 way relay fuse box in anticipation of electrical add ons like seat heaters, power vents, hidden front license plate deployment, and maybe other gadgetry. I decided on studs for the header install but that will wait until I have more heat shielding in the engine bay and around wires and hoses.

I'll post pictures to follow.

[Highplainsdakota]

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[Highplainsdakota]

Here are a few questions:

I attempted to install my driveshaft yesterday and could not get it to fit. The manual says to come in from the top driver's side, but I don't see that to be possible. I could remove one of the universal joints but it takes quite a bit of force to uninstall and reinstall those requiring a lot of hammering under the car.

Worse, The adaptor plate between the rear drive shaft universal joint and the IRS doesn't fit. The bolt holes don't line up with the plate on the back of the drive shaft. I understand there are two versions of the adaptor for different IRS, but that shouldn't affect the driveshaft attachment. Below are some pics

[Highplainsdakota]

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[cv2065]

Looking good. Glad you kept at it and didn't get discouraged. What was the outcome of your engine issue? I'm not sure what you are using from Frank at i.e. 427, but he makes a hub that is geared for a quick release steering wheel and I think its thinner by design. I wouldn't want to give up the turn signals and horn on the wheel so might reach out to him and see if you can get it worked out.

Check your driveshaft and ensure that you have the correct one. Sometimes they get mixed up from FFR. If you do, it will fit. Sometimes you just have to monkey around with it and get it in the exact right position. My first build, it took two 30 minute sessions and some choice words to figure it out. This last build, about 30 seconds. Suddenly, it will just fit into place when you are least expecting it. I wouldn't be pulling the U-joints or hammering anything.

Does your adaptor plate fit/mount up to the transmission by itself?

[Highplainsdakota]

The rear of the Tremec TKX has splines that seem like they would fit into the drive shaft, although I didn't check that before installing the engine and transmission. The adaptor plate fits the rear IRS. The four threaded bolt holes on the adaptor plate are in a rectangular pattern, not square like the back of the drive shaft. You can sort of see this in the picture above or look at my caliper measurements. And for the life of me, why do the pictures keep showing up in a random rotation? Sheesh. I'll call FFR tomorrow, but I agree that it could be the adaptor plate or the driveshaft.

[cv2065]

The rear of the Tremec TKX has splines that seem like they would fit into the drive shaft, although I didn't check that before installing the engine and transmission. The adaptor plate fits the rear IRS. The four threaded bolt holes on the adaptor plate are in a rectangular pattern, not square like the back of the drive shaft. You can sort of see this in the picture above or look at my caliper measurements. And for the life of me, why do the pictures keep showing up in a random rotation? Sheesh. I'll call FFR tomorrow, but I agree that it could be the adaptor plate or the driveshaft.

If the splines fit, then you should have the right driveshaft, but definitely call FFR and get a confirmation. I use photobucket to post my photos and Youtube for videos. Photobucket costs $12 a month and very easy to embed the photos in any size/orientation and keeps them all together.

[Highplainsdakota]

Called FFR and confirmed. They sent me the wrong driveshaft. Part number was wrong and it was 2.5” too long with the 28 vs 31 splines. No wonder why the thing didn’t “slide in from the top drivers side”. We were at it 20 min until we figured there was no way to do that. Good news is that’s another problem solved.

I’m debating wiring in a simple toggle switch behind the dash in series with the inertia ground switch as an easy fuel shut off. I know some put a red switch in the cab. I doubt I’ll ever formally race or drag this car so I’m not sure I need it. May make priming the oil and fluids easier.

[cv2065]

Called FFR and confirmed. They sent me the wrong driveshaft. Part number was wrong and it was 2.5” too long with the 28 vs 31 splines. No wonder why the thing didn’t “slide in from the top drivers side”. We were at it 20 min until we figured there was no way to do that. Good news is that’s another problem solved.

I’m debating wiring in a simple toggle switch behind the dash in series with the inertia ground switch as an easy fuel shut off. I know some put a red switch in the cab. I doubt I’ll ever formally race or drag this car so I’m not sure I need it. May make priming the oil and fluids easier.

Glad you got the driveshaft worked out.

I didn't think I'd use a traditional cutoff switch in the cab for anything but occasional security but added anyway. Plus, it just looks . Boy was I wrong. Just in the build process alone it's been invaluable, especially when shutting the power down from the switch instead of pulling a terminal at the battery for electrical work or accidentally turning on the fuel pump when working on the plumbing. . Wouldn't do another build without one.

[Mike.Bray]

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Love the shark!!!

I hope there's a story behind it.

[Highplainsdakota]

That’s just the kind of feedback I was looking for. I don’t want to do unnecessary steps but it’s so easy to put in right now. Thanks again for the reply!

[Highplainsdakota]

Glad you noticed! It’s a 12’ hammerhead replica. I caught an 11’7” hammerhead in Fort Lauderdale about 14 years ago. I said I wanted to mount it so the charter first mate pulled it into the boat with a rope. We took pictures sitting right next to it before pushing it out to sea. It was like dragging a wet cow out of the ocean. Now they don’t even let you pull them out anymore. They have all been replica mounts for a while. I paid 50% down but couldn’t afford to finish it or ship it, nor did I have a place to hang it until 10 years later. Then I built this shop and pulled the trigger.

The funny thing is most people that come into the shop don’t notice it. It’s just a little too high and with just stuff going on they miss it.

[Highplainsdakota]

On mine I only have two. The high pressure out and the low pressure return. The power steering has high in and low out. The forte hydroboost has high in, high pass through, and low out. I used the high pressure pass through on the hydroboost to feed the power steering, and had to “T” the low pressure from hydroboost and power steering back to the low intake reservoir.

[RobHartley]

Thanks for this, I realized I should post this on the main forum so I deleted the post, but you were quick on the draw and answered the question, Thanks a bunch! I too like the shark, I scuba dive, and did get the chance to see a couple of hammerheads off of Maui a couple of years back, we were at 60ft and they were at 120, so quite a ways away, wish I could have been closer...

On mine I only have two. The high pressure out and the low pressure return. The power steering has high in and low out. The forte hydroboost has high in, high pass through, and low out. I used the high pressure pass through on the hydroboost to feed the power steering, and had to “T” the low pressure from hydroboost and power steering back to the low intake reservoir.

[Mike.Bray]

Glad you noticed! It’s a 12’ hammerhead replica. I caught an 11’7” hammerhead in Fort Lauderdale about 14 years ago. I said I wanted to mount it so the charter first mate pulled it into the boat with a rope. We took pictures sitting right next to it before pushing it out to sea. It was like dragging a wet cow out of the ocean. Now they don’t even let you pull them out anymore. They have all been replica mounts for a while. I paid 50% down but couldn’t afford to finish it or ship it, nor did I have a place to hang it until 10 years later. Then I built this shop and pulled the trigger.

The funny thing is most people that come into the shop don’t notice it. It’s just a little too high and with just stuff going on they miss it.

I knew there would be a cool story behind it. Thanks for sharing.

[FLPBFoot]

I’m debating wiring in a simple toggle switch behind the dash in series with the inertia ground switch as an easy fuel shut off. I know some put a red switch in the cab. I doubt I’ll ever formally race or drag this car so I’m not sure I need it. May make priming the oil and fluids easier.

I put two switches in. One in the fuel pump circuit and one in the 12V coil supply circuit. I mounted both switches on the left side of the fuse panel with the toggles hanging down. I use them for security mostly but at times will shut off the fuel pump to run the carb bowl empty for service. I put them in so when the toggle is facing forward the car is ready to run. Pulled back to the rear "counter measures are on".

[J R Jones]

Glad you noticed! It’s a 12’ hammerhead replica. I caught an 11’7” hammerhead in Fort Lauderdale about 14 years ago. I said I wanted to mount it so the charter first mate pulled it into the boat with a rope. We took pictures sitting right next to it before pushing it out to sea. It was like dragging a wet cow out of the ocean. Now they don’t even let you pull them out anymore. They have all been replica mounts for a while. I paid 50% down but couldn’t afford to finish it or ship it, nor did I have a place to hang it until 10 years later. Then I built this shop and pulled the trigger.

The funny thing is most people that come into the shop don’t notice it. It’s just a little too high and with just stuff going on they miss it.

I was USAF assigned near Panama City FL in the late sixtes. I surf-cast and it was always a surprise at the end of the line. I have seen guys get injured.
We had miles of Government beach.
One of the guys went for a shark with a weighted gaff and spoiled beef. He tied the line to his Jeep and almost regretted it. The Jeep got pulled to the surf but not in.
He eventually towed the shark to the sand, and thought if we buried it, it would rot, and he would salvage the jaw/teeth. After a couple of months we went digging but we could not find the remains. A tidal beach is always moving.
jim

[Highplainsdakota]

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[Highplainsdakota]

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[Highplainsdakota]

I've been busy wiring over the last two weeks. The Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 was pretty straight forward. I routed the wires for the injectors underneath the intake manifold to keep some of it hidden and added a second water temp port. I secured the EDU to the passenger foot box top, and wrapped all my wiring. I placed some fuel line insulation, and ran a 6 gauge wire for positive and negative posts through my firewall, fused at 80A. I installed a 6 pack of relays and a separate fuse box that is powered by my accessory power bank via relay. The two GPS units for my radar detector and speedhut spedo are going to be mounted to an L bracket off the front passenger 3/4" frame behind the headlight.

I wired a fuel pump shutoff switch and a E-stopp safety switch under the dash. The E-stopp parking brake cannot operate when the ignition is on, but this switch allows me to work on a running engine with the e-brake on and the transmission in neutral. Speaker wires from front to back were ran along with my front and rear radar arrays. My amp for the speakers required a 2 gauge positive and negative cable from the battery off a resettable fuse.

I was able to insulate the passenger foot box, install my Gas'N header on the passenger side and re-run the spark plugs. I also installed my new shorter and correct drive shaft. I had to loosen the engine mounts and raise the drivers side of the engine to level it with the frame. While I was doing that, I ended up raising the transmission by about 1/2" to line it up with the rear IRS. I had to buy these torque adaptors that are box ended 12 point wrenches that are 2" long with a 3/8" lug on the other side to torque my header down and install my drive shaft adaptor. They are as useful as they are adorable and I'm glad I bought a set of SAE and metrics. They work well for short wrenches as well. I installed a USB port in the rear cubby and ran a power wire for trunk courtesy lights in the trunk that are gravity activated. The purple wire that runs to the rear brakes was repurposed for rear back up light power, running through the reverse switch pigtail on the TKX transmission. Wires were wrapped in loom but I haven't secured them yet.

I adjusted my dash, cut the holes for the steering hub and gauges. It's not very typical but I can see them well and it will make room for my other switches when I get them. More to come on that. I installed my microprocessor for the blinker system and decided on a momentary toggle switch on the trans tunnel for the left and right blinkers. I spent the rest of the time applying dynomat extreme in the passenger side.

[Mike.Bray]

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Will you be able to reach the inertia switch to reset it when the body is on?

[Highplainsdakota]

I’m pretty sure I will be able to reach it from under the drivers side dash, but my dash is also removable. That shouldn’t trip often should it?

[Mike.Bray]

That shouldn’t trip often should it?

No, it shouldn't. But when it does you can be sure it will be at the most inappropriate time and place.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I’m pretty sure I will be able to reach it from under the drivers side dash, but my dash is also removable. That shouldn’t trip often should it?

Shouldn't. I put the one on my first car up under the dash on the 2x2 tube and over 17 years it never tripped, even after several "agricultural expeditions" when I slid off the track. It did function though...I tested it a few times by giving the chassis a good whack with a dead blow mallet.

Jeff

[Highplainsdakota]

Shouldn't. I put the one on my first car up under the dash on the 2x2 tube and over 17 years it never tripped, even after several "agricultural expeditions" when I slid off the track. It did function though...I tested it a few times by giving the chassis a good whack with a dead blow mallet.

Jeff

Yeah, kind of like the roll bar. I don't "plan" on using it...

[PMD24]

Dakota, can you share some more details on the 80 and 125A breakers (photo 4 in post 179). Curious on the reason for them and more info on brand so I can check them out. Also curious about the two studs through the firewall shown in photo 5. Is that just a means to get power through the firewall vs wire through a grommet?

I'm immersed in my electrical right now so I'm finding all of your work very interesting. Not doing anywhere near what you are, but the more I dig into it, the more stuff I tear open and remove, move, change, etc. So far I've opened up everything except the front harness! Looks like a mess but I'm labeling and keeping good notes.

Thanks,

Pat

[Highplainsdakota]

Dakota, can you share some more details on the 80 and 125A breakers (photo 4 in post 179). Curious on the reason for them and more info on brand so I can check them out. Also curious about the two studs through the firewall shown in photo 5. Is that just a means to get power through the firewall vs wire through a grommet?

I'm immersed in my electrical right now so I'm finding all of your work very interesting. Not doing anywhere near what you are, but the more I dig into it, the more stuff I tear open and remove, move, change, etc. So far I've opened up everything except the front harness! Looks like a mess but I'm labeling and keeping good notes.

Thanks,

Pat

Hi Pat,

The idea here is every wire should be protected with a fuse so a short circuit doesn't melt the wire and cause a fire. The fuse/breaker is sized to the cable gauge vs length of run. I'm adding some accessories to my build, and I wanted them well protected with fuses. I installed an extra fuse box and 6 bank relay panel. Some suggest any circuit over a few amps should go through a relay. That may be overkill but it avoids putting a lot of current through a switch. I did not install a heater, so I used the brown heater wire (which comes off the ACC feed panel) as a trigger for my first relay. That relay (when the car is in ACC or ON) then provides 30A power to my new fuse panel behind the dash. All those circuits then get powered off when the key is off. Several small circuits from that panel are fused again at the panel to protect those individual circuits/wires. Some circuit examples from that extra panel are my radar detector, courtesy lights, rear back up lights, vent fan and valve. The other 5 relays will likely be used for seat heaters, Wipers, and any other high power gadgetry I want to install.

The power for those 6 relays (and therefore the new fuse panel) as well as some other powered items like my E-Stopp parking brake and gravity switched courtesy lights in the trunk and hood need direct (always on) battery power. They come from a 6g Red cable directly from my battery through the firewall. I could have run them through a grommet, but I like to have a 12v+ and Ground terminal in the dash. The bulk head terminals work well for that. The 5' of 6 AWG cable can tolerate 80A so I purchased a resettable waterproof breaker. This should go as close to the battery as possible, because it is meant to protect the cable. The 125A breaker protects my 2 AWG cable that runs to my trunk for my 1000W amp for my sub and speakers. That probably only draws 80A. I'm protecting the cable in the event it gets damaged so it doesn't hurt my battery or start a fire.

One gadget I'm working on is a retractable front license plate using a linear actuator. I press a button on my dash, and a front license plate rotates out of the radiator hole in the front of the car. In my state I don't need a front plate if the car is registered as a car more than 40 years old. Problem is, a cop may still pull you over if they don't know the law or don't see the back plate style. At least when I park the car I can retract the plate and it doesn't look so bad.

I'll attach links for the breakers and bulkhead power studs.

[Highplainsdakota]

Breaker link on Amazon: https://a.co/d/2TKqGym

Bulkhead power link: https://a.co/d/4SFyLDc

[PMD24]

Dakota, thank you for all the detail. Very well thought out! I have to give all of this more thought, so I include any upgrades now. One thing I've gone back and forth on is a main disconnect. Wasn't planning on doing it for security, as many do. But it sure would be handy over the next several weeks of electrical work. I've got the electrical tore apart on my Polaris Ranger EV trying to find a 12V accessory problem and it has a very unfriendly setup for killing the power from the primary 48V banks. Every time I'm contorted in there to unplug the disconnect, I think about the car. Thanks for the links as well.

Pat

[Highplainsdakota]

Ok,

I just solved one of the things that frustrates me about the mk4. The right side of the drivers side foot box near the trans tunnel hits me right on the lateral lower leg about half way up. That 30 degree angle causes a pressure point right there. Although I don’t have my driver side foot box done or the driver side headers in place there seems to be plenty of room to bump this out. I ended up using my angle grinder to cut a slit high on that wall and straightened that angle outward. I removed some metal and re-riveted the connection near the trans tunnel up to the dash. I fabricated some aluminum angle to close the triangle on the bottom and it looks pretty good. I still have to close the triangle made at the top that’s open to the engine compartment. I think another angle of aluminum will do the trick. I’ve been closing the larger holes and gaps with JB weld or JB weld putty for a more secure and rigid, fix the smaller ones I filled with black silicone.

I’ll attach some pictures to show the progress. I debated doing this for a few months and finally tackled it.

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[Highplainsdakota]

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I fitted the Breeze automotive shroud to my radiator and fan using the hinged upper kit today. Seems to fit together well without too much drilling trouble. I opted for the rivnuts to secure the fan to the shroud as some have suggested. I have the breeze lower radiator hose system, but I’m a little unsure how it fits together. I might ask for a few pictures once I get my radiator installed on the chassis.

[Mike.Bray]

I have the breeze lower radiator hose system, but I’m a little unsure how it fits together. I might ask for a few pictures once I get my radiator installed on the chassis.

It's actually pretty simple. Breeze sells a special support that attaches under the frame to hold the tube, be sure and get it.

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[PMD24]

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I fitted the Breeze automotive shroud to my radiator and fan using the hinged upper kit today. Seems to fit together well without too much drilling trouble. I opted for the rivnuts to secure the fan to the shroud as some have suggested. I have the breeze lower radiator hose system, but I’m a little unsure how it fits together. I might ask for a few pictures once I get my radiator installed on the chassis.

I used the Breeze kit as well, along with the support bracket that Mike mentioned. I didn't like the angle of the solid tube or the connection at the radiator with the elbow supplied with the kit. I bought a hose with an elbow that had a slightly larger radius and I cut it for more length on one end. I also added a 1/4" rubber spacer under the frame bracket for a better fit there. The end result satisfied my OCD. The tube is closer to running parallel with the frame and the hose connection at the radiator isn't angled. Detail in my thread at post 178, and some radiator stuff a few posts ahead of that.

[Highplainsdakota]

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I have the Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 on my ford small block 363. The 4150 throttle body has a few vacuum ports that are capped. My Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator requires manifold vacuum. The nipple on the regulator is about 1/8”. The nipple on the passenger side of the throttle body just next to the throttle position sensor is about the same or a little bigger. I have read this might be a ported vacuum meaning it is only under vacuum when the throttle is open? The larger vacuum nipples on the front and back of the throttle body are labeled as full time vacuum, but also “not for fuel”. Do they mean not for fuel regulator vacuum or don’t hook up your fuel line to throttle body there?

Also, using an adaptor from a 1/8” to 3/8” vacuum hose seems a little weird. Any thoughts? I have included the picture of the throttle body with the center circled port next to the throttle body and the larger ports on the sides with arrows.

[Mike.Bray]

Are you sure you need vacuum to your fuel pressure regulator? Usually that's for boosted applications, for NA applications it's left open to atmosphere.

[Highplainsdakota]

The instructions say to set fuel pressure with the regulator vacuum disconnected and open to atmosphere, with the vacuum ports on the manifold/throttle body plugged. Once set, attach to full manifold vacuum. From what I understand, it’s more critical for boosted applications and open to atmosphere for throttle body injectors or carburetors. I’ve been trying to call edelbrock tech support but can’t get an answer.

[Highplainsdakota]

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I’ve probably gone through 3 or 4 sets of battery terminals but I think I have something that I like. I used a blade type switch on my negative terminal so I could finally connect all my power wires and secure them with the battery still disconnected. Pictures attached.

I temporarily installed the radiator, but I don’t have a #7 drill bit, so I ordered one. I’ve been thinking about buying a very large drill bit holder, and adding good quality carbide bits to them as I need them. Maybe make each one two deep for a sharp spare so I can cannibalize extra sets. I have a drill press and when I need a good hole I could reach for my best bits. Especially the numbered bits. This way when I break, melt, or lose a few I can replace them individually. It’s a shop frustration I’d like to solve. Anyone want to share their drill bit system?

[PMD24]

I have a high quality set 1/32" through 1/2" in 1/32" increments. My recall is that one came from Drill Bit City, but there are many other sources for good bits as well.

Another set that I've had for maybe 20 years (don't recall brand) is essentially the same as the Harbor Freight 115 pc Cobalt set.
https://www.harborfreight.com/cobalt...ece-59816.html
The set contains fractional, number, and letter drills and I've never had a situation where I didn't have the size I needed, other than when greater than 1/2". In those cases, I'm typically using step bits, or hole saws.

Really like the idea of the blade switch. Just yesterday I posted about not caring about a disconnect switch (on the positive side) other than for convenience during the build. Blade switch could be the ticket, and I'll remove it when done.

[Highplainsdakota]

Thanks for the info. All the rivnuts I'm installing require unusual fractional sizes and some through stainless steel. Time to get what I need and be done with it!

I went around on the blade switch as well and didn't buy one until I saw how much room I had. Some people put the disconnect on the positive side, but the size of the blade switch made me nervous about grounding it. I think I already mentioned this but I bought some liquid electrical tape to paint the cross member near my positive terminal for wrench slips. I'm not sure I'll leave the blade terminal in place at the end. The blade is really tight so it won't go flopping around.