FloMoTx 289 FIA Build - Firewall Support, Heater, Reservoir Install
Yesterday was an exciting day. Kelly with Cunningham Transport arrived with my 289 kit. It's only ten years in the making, researching kit car companies, then deciding on which roadster. I picked the 289 because of the uniqueness and hopefully simpler build for my first build.
Although I'm not as prepared as I hoped to have been, I'm excited to start this multi-phase retirement hobby/project. I'm not real good with social media and have largely avoided it, but this forum is much easier to navigate and way more interesting. I also like how this forum is set up to be able to document my build as well as receive advice.
My kit is as follows:
- 289 FIA Complete Kit w/ 3 Link
- Pin drive LCAs
- Cutouts including dash
- Powder coated frame
I still need to swap the manual steering for power as well as get the hydraulic clutch assembly. Next phase will be the Moser shortened axle, 289 wheels from Vintage, and some other options I have yet to decide on. Then it will be engine and transmission. I'll probably drive a bit in gel coat to shake out anything annoying and then paint.
As you'll see, I don't have a cool shop like most of yall, but I hope it still works out. Got to get my body buck functional and build a chassis dolly.
On my to do list: Inventory. Can't wait to start the actual build!
Congratulations! It's a big day when you hear the semi getting close to your house. Before you know it, you have a new "car" in your garage and a LOT of boxes to go through. Enjoy it! I'm still going through my inventory - it looks like my pin drive setup is backordered (FFR owes me the backorder list).
BTW you might not have a fancy garage, but you have space, which is a big deal
I've started in on the inventory. Just a few items missing so far and a two boxes, one with the pin drive LCAs.
As I was looking around the body, I noticed the hood scoop opening was not cut out and I didn't see the hood scoop grill on the inventory. Did FF ever cut out the scoop opening? The supplement makes it look like it was pre-cut.
The mountain of brown Kraft paper you are about to create was driving me nuts. Like a dumpster worth of crumpled paper.
So piece by piece I laid it out flat on the ground and used a broom stick like a wand to go over the wrinkles and flatten it out, layer by layer. It went quickly and turned the mountain into a huge paper cigar, which I posted on Marketplace for free. Some lady picked it up the same day I posted and was going to use it as craft projects for her kids.
The mountain of brown Kraft paper you are about to create was driving me nuts. Like a dumpster worth of crumpled paper.
So piece by piece I laid it out flat on the ground and used a broom stick like a wand to go over the wrinkles and flatten it out, layer by layer. It went quickly and turned the mountain into a huge paper cigar, which I posted on Marketplace for free. Some lady picked it up the same day I posted and was going to use it as craft projects for her kids.
Way to pay it forward! I just stuffed mine in the recycling bin over the course of a couple of weeks. I like your solution better.
The mountain of brown Kraft paper you are about to create was driving me nuts. Like a dumpster worth of crumpled paper.
So piece by piece I laid it out flat on the ground and used a broom stick like a wand to go over the wrinkles and flatten it out, layer by layer. It went quickly and turned the mountain into a huge paper cigar, which I posted on Marketplace for free. Some lady picked it up the same day I posted and was going to use it as craft projects for her kids.
Wow, you're a lot more patient than me. I just basically un-crunched all of the paper and laid it out in three of my packing boxes. I posted it for free on FB Marketplace and I have a guy coming by tomorrow to pick it up. I totally agree that it was too nice to throw in the recycling bin (or bins in this case). I will say though - it probably took more time to reclaim the paper than to do the actual inventory itself!
Y'all are way better than me. I just shoved a lot into the recycling bin.
As I've been making my way through the boxes and the packing list, I've noticed some things are missing. However, there was no Parts on Order List. One of the the parts listed as not there were my SN95s Spindles, but must have gotten added just prior to shipping. Do these sometimes come without the POL? I'm going to check with FF.
Y'all are way better than me. I just shoved a lot into the recycling bin.
As I've been making my way through the boxes and the packing list, I've noticed some things are missing. However, there was no Parts on Order List. One of the the parts listed as not there were my SN95s Spindles, but must have gotten added just prior to shipping. Do these sometimes come without the POL? I'm going to check with FF.
I didn't get my POL either with the delivery. I called FF and they emailed me a copy. It's actually off a bit (and is missing my pin drive pieces) but most of it matches up. I need to reconcile their list against mine tomorrow.
Interesting. That I did get along with the cover. I'm missing some pieces here and there in a couple of boxes. I'm also missing two boxes.
I still need to order a power steering rack and hydraulic clutch kit. I'm wishing I did it when I ordered the kit, but I was really trying to keep it period correct as much as possible. But after more research, like for just driving comfort and future resale if needed, I've decided to go with more comfort. I was hoping FFR had a Black Friday or Cyber Monday sale. LOL
I'm still a bit behind the curve, but this is a marathon and not a sprint right. Kids are practically out of the house and the wife isn't quite ready for longer term retirement travel. Gotta stay busy on the weekends.
So I finished up my body buck and chassis dolly, thanks to all the past builders for the plans. Turns my 2 car garage into a large workshop and then back to reality, but with enough space for my wife's car. No more rubbing a new car fender up against the side of the door pillar.
Would have gotten the body on the buck, but my son had to work. Will do it tomorrow so I can start taking stock of my aluminum. Maybe get some drilling in.
Well, I made a little progress. Barely. Got the body on the buck and I'm finished with inventory. I still never received a POL and haven't heard from FFR about it yet. I think there was a mistake on the order list for Quick Jacks. There are only 8, 7" bolts for the quick jacks, but the list had like 16, 6.5". Not sure where to find those. It was box 99 which is body and frame. Also missing some aluminum for the DS footbox unless it's in Box 10 even though it shows listed on the chassis. There were several bolts all over the cockpit that might have worked their way loose during transport.
Anyway, I'm still waiting on the LCAs but took the opportunity to paint the Pin Drive Adapters. I used brake caliper paint instead of powder coating. They look good now, but the paint will probably rub away over time.
Next step for me is removing all of the aluminum after photos and marking.
Did you call FF for your POL yet? Honestly, I had to call twice, but the second time I got the receptionist and she was able to pull up my order and email me my POL while I had her on the phone.
You're lucky if the door fasteners fell off and stayed in the cockpit. I lost at least one door fastener and one of the trunk bolts - they will be going on my "missing parts" list that I'll be sending off to FF this week.
Tomorrow I'll hopefully be pulling the body off and putting her on the buck, then it's time for a black sharpie and a camera to prep for panel removal
I noticed my F panels were not mounted exactly flush to frame tubes and the PS was a hair or 2 forward of the DS. I'm thinking some of the other aluminum panels are the same.
Is it more important to try to get them flush or to base the mounting on where FF screwed them on? My OCD wants it flush and even on both sides where it appears they should match up. Or does it matter?
I noticed my F panels were not mounted exactly flush to frame tubes and the PS was a hair or 2 forward of the DS. I'm thinking some of the other aluminum panels are the same.
Is it more important to try to get them flush or to base the mounting on where FF screwed them on? My OCD wants it flush and even on both sides where it appears they should match up. Or does it matter?
FWIW my OCD is leaning towards having the panels align with the frame. I was under the impression that the panels are just screwed in place for transport. It’s up to us to do the final alignment - I’ll find out shortly.
I finally had some time the weekend before last to work on the car. So I photographed, marked, and removed all of the panels. I then mounted the F panels after drilling, cleaning, and Sharkhiding. The fumes really permeated my garage even with window and doors open. I decided to Sharkhide outside the next day. The F panels didn’t exactly mount flush with the frame as I’d hoped, but it was close. But hey, this is American made, not Japanese. LOL.
I feel like I’m moving at a snails pace. This past weekend, I completed the passenger side footbox. It was pretty straight forward up to a point. I tried my best to follow the manual, however, I found the order of installation could have been better. For instance, I found it would have been easier to hook the PS front on and just leave it until it was ready to be attached after attaching the PS inside top and engine compartment side.
As I found out from the forum, I ended up breaking a couple of 1/8” drill bits drilling the holes along the outside bottom of the footbox when I hit the tube. However, those bits were dull and ones I’ve had for over 20 years. I bought a package of new ones. Hopefully they’ll last.
One part of the footbox that was difficult to tell how to attach was the flange that attaches to the 4” tube. There was a ¼” gap that I tried to use a clamp to hold after applying silicone. I also secured it with self-tapping screws for now. I hope it holds the aluminum in the correct position for when I rivet it to the frame. Although the manual says to use the short rivets until specifically stated, I plan to use 2 of the 1/8” long rivets.
I’m almost finished with installing the PS floor. Since the manual shows the older MKIV, it was unclear how to rivet the panel to the frame. I just drilled holes along the square tubes and the made my own cross like the manual on the metal sheet attached to the frame.
Since I decided to go with the natural aluminum look, I Sharkhided the exterior metal with 1 coat for now, but will go back later and add additional coats prior to installing the engine and transmission. I’ve had to do it outside because of the fumes. After about an hour outside, the fumes tend to dissipate. However, inside the garage, the fumes linger even with all doors open.
Since I couldn’t drill anymore, I decided to work on the UCAs.
The first ball joint I installed went into one UCA very easily. I tightened as much as I could with my bench vise. The next ball joint went in much differently. I screwed it in about half way and then had to muscle it in with the vise. I literally thought I was stripping it, but kept periodically checking to make sure it was going in at the right angle. I finally got it in.
I later learned it could have gone in more easily by wire brushing the powder coating off the threads. Thanks FFR. That would have been nice to put in the manual. I’m now ready to install it and attach the SN95 spindle adapter and LCAs which arrived the other day.
If anyone knows the start alignment adjustments needed for Pin Drive width with power steering it would be much appreciated. I’ve seen ranges from what FFR has in the manual to 9” front sleeve, 7” back sleeve to get 8 deg of Caster.
Next, I’ll install the LCAs, UCAs, SN95 spindles, and hubs. I’m still waiting on brakes and the Pin Drive hub adapters will come later. I still need to contact Vintage Wheels to get on the list for 289 style wheels.
You're making great progress! I keep getting distracted and I've only gotten the footboxes and firewall removed so far. I hope to get the rest done today.
BTW this was a very helpful post. I was leaning towards going with a brushed finish on my aluminum and then applying Sharkhide, but I didn't realize the fumes were that bad. I live in Jersey where it's in the mid-30s and snowy - I can't really do this outside. And with the fumes I really can't do it in my garage either, so I'm going to have to look into powder coating more seriously. So thanks for that
If you're buying more drill bits then you might want to look into purchasing #30 drill bits vs. 1/8". #30 bits are .1285" as compared to .125" - they are just slightly larger and make inserting our 1/8" rivets a bit easier. I bought a twelve-pack of double-ended #30 bits on Amazon - they're even made in the US.
Thanks for the tip on the drill bits. Yeah, those fumes will make you feel you/re taking years off your life. If you're looking to go show quality with the aluminum, you might want to consider polishing it, powder coating, or anodizing. I'm going with the natural/used look so it feels like it's from 1965. But protected with Sharkhide. So many scratches from the factory and drilling/installing.
Would have gotten the front suspension done today if it wasn’t for the trip to Lowes to get a new snap ring pliers and a 5/8” drill bit. The holes for the LCAs must have been drilled for ½” bolts. After that, I only needed to use one of the spacer washers and installation went smoothly. However, there was nothing in the manual about the snap ring that had to be finessed around the rubber boot of the ball joint to the base of the LCA. Thanks again for the Forum!
I then tackled the UCA. I was able to adjust the sleeves to the measurements in the manual for power steering without having to cut anything. There is probably around a few eights of an inch adjustment left on the back sleeve. I hope it’ll work. I found it was important to tighten the jam nuts really well because the sleeves tended to move slightly when I tightened the pivot bolts. We’ll see how it looks after the spindles are installed. Also, since I’m installing pin drive, it would have been easier to tighten the backside bolt without the F panel in the way.
I’ve never dealt with coil over shocks before. But the pictures helped with determining which shocks were front and which were back. Those went on pretty easily. However, the spacers for the bottom bolt was listed in the manual as .43” instead of .40” in the box, but those were with the larger spacers for the top bolt.
I haven't really installed the adapters yet. They're just being held by the castle nuts. I did see a video where it's important to try to get the cotter pin hole to face through the adapter rather than facing into the side of the adapter. Made it easier to get the cotter pin in. We'll see how that goes. Also, the LCAs came with two 1/4" thick washers that I believe go on after the spindle is on the LCA ball joint or the castle nut might tighten too low on the spindle and the cotter pin won't sit right in the castle nut. We'll see.
Today I worked on finishing the PS cockpit side panel and then started the DS. I installed the bottom of the DS footbox, cockpit bottom, and side panel.
My rear bracket to the pedal box came in along with the brakes. Yay! Now I can finish my IFS installation minus the Pin Drive adapters. I can also start the installation of the pedal box which will include the 2 MCs and the MC for the hydraulic clutch. I need to purchase another billet reservoir for the brakes. I plan to see how far I can get before it will be too problematic installing the rear axle. I'm still waiting on a power steering rack.
Is it better to hold off on the trunk aluminum until after the rear axle and 3-link suspension is installed? Likewise, can the brake lines and fuel lines be installed before the rear axle?
Today I worked on finishing the PS cockpit side panel and then started the DS. I installed the bottom of the DS footbox, cockpit bottom, and side panel.
My rear bracket to the pedal box came in along with the brakes. Yay! Now I can finish my IFS installation minus the Pin Drive adapters. I can also start the installation of the pedal box which will include the 2 MCs and the MC for the hydraulic clutch. I need to purchase another billet reservoir for the brakes. I plan to see how far I can get before it will be too problematic installing the rear axle. I'm still waiting on a power steering rack.
Is it better to hold off on the trunk aluminum until after the rear axle and 3-link suspension is installed? Likewise, can the brake lines and fuel lines be installed before the rear axle?
Damn, you're moving! Nice...
And FYI - I will have a spare MC reservoir as I'm going with the Tilton reservoir - let me know if you're interested
In the meantime - keep at it! I'll catch up once I get my backordered parts.
I got pretty far the other day installing the pedal box. I decided not to paint the pedal box mount or the back attachment, only sharkhide it. It’s not going to be seen. I got the MCs installed and the pedals somewhat adjusted so far. There is very little wiggle room for the brake switch even with the pedal as close as it can do to the cross bar without touching. Unfortunately, one of the MC kits was missing the O-ring for the inlet adapter. I emailed F5 customer support, but haven’t gotten a response. Probably due to the holidays. No offense to Forte, who builds incredible parts and engines, but I plan on fabricating my own mechanical throttle linkage.
I spent a couple of hours today installing the U-joint cover, transmission tunnel corners, and the cockpit rear corners. I wish the manual had better pictures. It was difficult to see, even zooming in, the rivets on the door frame aluminum. The aluminum shavings and the silicone make quite a mess. I’ll be cleaning the cockpit aluminum again prior to the carpet install. My install is not nearly as pretty as most of you senior builders, but it’ll be covered in sound/heat mats then carpet. I sharkhided the back side. I’ll hit that again with one last coat prior to completion.
I was hoping to get the hubs mounted today as well. They are tight. It’s going to need more that hitting with a soft mallet. I didn’t hardly get one on, but it was a little tough taking it off. It’s been chilly that last two days. I brought the hubs indoors, maybe that can help along with a little chassis grease. I was worried they might be the wrong size for SN95 spindles, but I believe they’re the correct ones.
I still haven’t installed the firewall. I’m still deciding on whether or not to get a heater/defroster. F5 Parts shows they’re out. I was looking into one at Summit, but it didn’t have the vintage controller and valve. I could probably sources those from somewhere.
I also ordered a PS rack and took advantage of the end of year sale deals with half off Wind Wings, Sun Visors, Garage Badge, and an extra brake reservoir. I also called Bob at Vintage Wheels about getting on the list for FIA wheels. He’s got a new manufacturer working on tooling up for his specs. Since I don’t plan or ordering my rear axle til mid 2026, I have time.
You're making great progress. Looks like you're having fun.
I've heard a number of guys comment about the fit of the hubs on the spindles. Not sure how to address that - it would be nice to know what the dimensions should be on the hub bore vs. the spindle diameter to see where they might be off. I know some guys have heated up the hub to get it to fit, but I'd hate to have to pull it off afterwards. It's probably worth checking out the build threads to see how guys addressed this. I suspect I'll have the same issue once I get to that point.
You're making great progress. Looks like you're having fun.
I've heard a number of guys comment about the fit of the hubs on the spindles. Not sure how to address that - it would be nice to know what the dimensions should be on the hub bore vs. the spindle diameter to see where they might be off. I know some guys have heated up the hub to get it to fit, but I'd hate to have to pull it off afterwards. It's probably worth checking out the build threads to see how guys addressed this. I suspect I'll have the same issue once I get to that point.
BTW I like your label on rivet spacing tool
Rob
Happy New Year!
Lol. Thanks. Sometimes I have to remind myself not to lose things.
I was able to get both hubs on with a little effort and the use of the Google AI. First, since it's been cold, I brought the hubs in overnight to warm up. Not sure if that actually helped. This morning I applied a little chassis grease, to the spindle, per AI, and then with the help of a soft mallet and a block of wood, I just hammered it on enough to get the nut on and then just ratcheted away then torqued it. I hope I never have to take it off. I've never done that before except on a boat trailer to repack bearings.
I was then able to install the brake caliper. It went on really tight, but I got it. I had to turn the upper bolt on the spindle adapter around to get better access to the M12 bolt that holds the caliper to the spindle.
So, regarding the tight fit of your brake calipers - can you spin the rotor? It sounded like the pads were a tight fit over the rotor, or maybe I just read that wrong (hopefully I did).
BTW I got a shipping notice from Fedex that a 60+ pound package is coming tomorrow from FFR. I'm hoping it's my backordered front suspension pieces
Rob
289 FIA roadster (in-progress) received 11/2025
331 SBF/Pro-Flow4 port injection/Edelbrock E-street heads/Howards hydraulic roller cam
TKX w/.81 OD and mid-shift
8.8" rear w/3.55 gears and three-link
289 FIA pin drive wheels
So, regarding the tight fit of your brake calipers - can you spin the rotor? It sounded like the pads were a tight fit over the rotor, or maybe I just read that wrong (hopefully I did).
BTW I got a shipping notice from Fedex that a 60+ pound package is coming tomorrow from FFR. I'm hoping it's my backordered front suspension pieces
Rob
Awesome to hear about your package! You gotta get on your build. LOL.
I just wrapped up the front brake install. Luckily yes, the rotors do spin, just not freely, The brake pads just seem tighter against the rotor more so than my truck or my kid's cars. The DS rotor was a PITA. It took me a couple of hours to get the top bolt threaded in. I think the spindle is not exactly square to the hole on the caliper bracket. I had to back in and out several times to ensure I wasn't cross-threading. I did what the experienced builders did after about two hours. I took a break, grabbed some lunch, calmed myself, and went back at it. Only took about 30 minutes after that to get the bolts in and torque it to specs. Drilling and riveting the little brake line bracket was easy enough as well as installing the flex lines to the calipers.
Just getting around to updating my thread. I installed the front hard brake lines the other day. It was my first time doing something like that and wasn't as easy as Dan's F5 video, at least to me. I have a brake line bender which was more trouble than using a socket like Dan. However, I learned you have to be careful on what size you use. I found my hub nut socket worked best after giving up on the bender. You'll see my work is not very pretty, but no kinks and it seems to look correct when compared to the pictures.
You'll notice I made a mistake when attaching the bracket for the T fitting on the DS. I was following the manual, but I have pin drive UCA set up. I had to drill out the bracket and move it to the 3/4" tube like in the next page of the manual. I should have studied on it a little better. The UCA nut gets in the way of the other end of the T fitting that's supposed point toward the front of the car. Anyway, I think my routing of the lines to the PS bracket turned out ok. I'm going with the battery in the trunk like the original 289 FIAs.
I decided to depart from the manual on the rear brake line and move it to follow the farthest inside of the front wall of the DS foot box. 1. I like to keep my lines closer to the 4" tube for less chance for a hang up, and 2. It shortens the line so I don't have to make too many turns at the the other end. Probably doesn't make too much of a difference except in my mind. I'm hoping my mistakes can help some other novice with their build.
Just got caught up on your thread. You are really moving along at a good clip. I'm 14 months in and still a few weeks away from first start. A couple of things I noted while reading through your thread.
> The snap rings are for donor builds. I know folks have found a way to get them on the ball joints, but they are not needed. This info is directly from FFR. I did document that somewhere in my build.
> I'd hold off on as much cockpit aluminum as you can and all trunk aluminum for a long time. I have my engine and transmission in and all brake and fuel lines in. Having the aluminum off for all of that (especially leak testing) was very helpful. I will keep it off until after first start.
> Photo hint - once you load a photo, you can double click on it and a dialogue box will come up where you can choose a larger size so when others read your thread they don't have to open each photo to see it.
> In your profile you can add a signature line that comes up at the bottom of each post you do. If it includes a few details of your build it's helpful to folks responding to questions you might pose.
Hope this is helpful. I'll keep following.
Pat
Last edited by PMD24; 01-11-2026 at 06:34 PM.
MK4 complete kit Nov 2024, Blueprint 347, TKX, Hyd clutch, IRS, 3.55, touring shocks, 17" wheels, 11.65 brakes, Build Thread
I second what Pat said - you're making amazing progress! You're going to need those "deferred" parts sooner rather than later
Keep it up and hopefully I'll catch up soon (once my BO parts show up ).
Rob
289 FIA roadster (in-progress) received 11/2025
331 SBF/Pro-Flow4 port injection/Edelbrock E-street heads/Howards hydraulic roller cam
TKX w/.81 OD and mid-shift
8.8" rear w/3.55 gears and three-link
289 FIA pin drive wheels
Just got caught up on your thread. You are really moving along at a good clip. I'm 14 months in and still a few weeks away from first start. A couple of things I noted while reading through your thread.
> The snap rings are for donor builds. I know folks have found a way to get them on the ball joints, but they are not needed. This info is directly from FFR. I did document that somewhere in my build.
> I'd hold off on as much cockpit aluminum as you can and all trunk aluminum for a long time. I have my engine and transmission in and all brake and fuel lines in. Having the aluminum off for all of that (especially leak testing) was very helpful. I will keep it off until after first start.
> Photo hint - once you load a photo, you can double click on it and a dialogue box will come up where you can choose a larger size so when others read your thread they don't have to open each photo to see it.
> In your profile you can add a signature line that comes up at the bottom of each post you do. If it includes a few details of your build it's helpful to folks responding to questions you might pose.
Hope this is helpful. I'll keep following.
Pat
Thanks for the tips Pat! Very helpful.
Yeah, the snap rings threw me as they're not in the manual. Also, they came with the LCAs which F5 knew I wasn't doing a donor build. It was confusing because I think I read the ball joints were welded in. Anyway, there is a groove and the snap rings fit just fine. Maybe a little overkill.
I was planning on holding off on the rear cockpit and trunk aluminum until I got my rear axle and brake lines in. I wasn't thinking about leak testing, but that's good to know. What about just installing the trunk side aluminum? I'm also holding off on the rest of the DS foot box aluminum install other than the inside panel. I want to make sure I can reach the MCs during the bleeding process and brake adjustment after the engine is in.
James, on the side aluminum question, I installed the DS once all work (suspension, brakes, brake lines, bleeding, etc) on that side were completely done. I'm not a fan of powder coating the sheet metal so the outside of those panels were rolled with Raptor, and some sound deadening was applied to the inside before mounting. I didn't do the PS (still not installed), only because it made for a little easier access for fuel system work. I also ended up removing my rear harness and pulling the whole thing out of the loom to make several changes that I failed to think about at the time the manual instructed me to install it. So, it made access for that work easier as well. That's all documented in my thread.
Also, I bought a handy Earl's test fitting that turned out to be a great tool. I just didn't like the idea of using the fuel pump and gasoline for testing the integrity of my fuel lines. I know that's what most do, but for me personally, I went with compressed air, and I'm glad I did. I replaced a bunch of no-brand stuff supplied by Blueprint with higher quality name brand stuff that resulted in essentially no leaks.
I think Fragola and others make a similar kit. I went with Earls because they seem to be the high end of the hose and fitting lineup and for testing I wanted to be sure that the tester itself was leak free and reliable.
Pat
MK4 complete kit Nov 2024, Blueprint 347, TKX, Hyd clutch, IRS, 3.55, touring shocks, 17" wheels, 11.65 brakes, Build Thread
James, on the side aluminum question, I installed the DS once all work (suspension, brakes, brake lines, bleeding, etc) on that side were completely done. I'm not a fan of powder coating the sheet metal so the outside of those panels were rolled with Raptor, and some sound deadening was applied to the inside before mounting. I didn't do the PS (still not installed), only because it made for a little easier access for fuel system work. I also ended up removing my rear harness and pulling the whole thing out of the loom to make several changes that I failed to think about at the time the manual instructed me to install it. So, it made access for that work easier as well. That's all documented in my thread.
Also, I bought a handy Earl's test fitting that turned out to be a great tool. I just didn't like the idea of using the fuel pump and gasoline for testing the integrity of my fuel lines. I know that's what most do, but for me personally, I went with compressed air, and I'm glad I did. I replaced a bunch of no-brand stuff supplied by Blueprint with higher quality name brand stuff that resulted in essentially no leaks.
I think Fragola and others make a similar kit. I went with Earls because they seem to be the high end of the hose and fitting lineup and for testing I wanted to be sure that the tester itself was leak free and reliable.
Pat
Thanks again Pat! I plan on holding off on the DS foot box sides until I get the engine in and brakes and clutch bled. Your conversation about power steering in your build thread convinced me to go with it. Ordered it about 2 weeks ago. Hoping it comes next week.
Your brake lines look incredible. I plan to spend some time reviewing your fuel tank and line installation. I plan on going with 3/8" flex lines with an in tank fuel pump for a Holley Sniper 2. I'm also looking at going with BP, but I want a 302 to keep it closer to period correct. Wish they had a 289.
Anyway, thanks again for the tips.
James
289 FIA Roadster, received 11/2025, Trying to Keep it as Period Correct as Possible
Ford 302 with Holley Sniper 2 with TKX Transmission, Narrowed Solid Rear Axle with 3-link Suspension
Power Steering and Hydraulic Clutch, Pin Drive Wheels
Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-289-FIA-Build
Your conversation about power steering in your build thread convinced me to go with it. Ordered it about 2 weeks ago. Hoping it comes next week.
Your brake lines look incredible. I plan to spend some time reviewing your fuel tank and line installation. I plan on going with 3/8" flex lines with an in tank fuel pump for a Holley Sniper 2. I'm also looking at going with BP, but I want a 302 to keep it closer to period correct. Wish they had a 289.
I absolutely love my power steering, can't imagine not having it. Good decision there.
I went the easy way for my in tank fuel pump, just call Forte and he will fix you up with a unit that literally drops in.
The Sniper 2 is okay but you might look at the Edelbrock ProFlo 4 as it's miles ahead in every way. And not all that much more expensive.
Tundra2050 and Mike.Bray - is it my imagination or are both of you in Flower Mound, TX? I can't recall ever seeing two members living in the same town
Rob
289 FIA roadster (in-progress) received 11/2025
331 SBF/Pro-Flow4 port injection/Edelbrock E-street heads/Howards hydraulic roller cam
TKX w/.81 OD and mid-shift
8.8" rear w/3.55 gears and three-link
289 FIA pin drive wheels
Sorry Mike. You're right Pat, I should have thanked both of y'all.
Mike, thanks again for your tips. I'm going to look into Forte. I do like the ProFlo, but I'm trying to make it look more like 1965 and Holley's throttle body looks more like a carb. A buddy of mine has a Fitech in one of his restomods that he loves. The ProFlo looks very modern IMO. I'm willing to sacrifice some performance for looks. At least for now. I'm a ways off from getting the engine and trans. I can always change my mind.
Thanks all!
289 FIA Roadster, received 11/2025, Trying to Keep it as Period Correct as Possible
Ford 302 with Holley Sniper 2 with TKX Transmission, Narrowed Solid Rear Axle with 3-link Suspension
Power Steering and Hydraulic Clutch, Pin Drive Wheels
Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-289-FIA-Build
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Originally Posted by Stangrob
