RickShank's Roadster Build - P/S Reservoir, strike 2

[rickshank]

Current situation - went from 1 AL panel installed to 10. 5 for the inner/front footbox areas, 2 floor pans, 2 door sides, and the rear cockpit panel above. First alignment/mockup of the turn signal went reasonably well. 4 hours? As edwardb experienced, I had to adjust the angle of the mounting bracket to get better alignment with the steering shaft. I opened it up about 4-5 degrees.

Clorox wipes do work pretty well for cleaning up still-wet silicone. I stole Jeff's idea to scotch-brite/clear the exposed panels. They're not amazing, but way better than if I just cleaned them with acetone.

Brakes - 1 step closer, 1/2 step back. Figured out how they want you to mount these. I bought longer bolts from Mcmaster, turns out the one bolt that was weird to me (12 point when the others were 6) mattered for e-Brake clearance. Welp, new bolts coming Tuesday. However, it seems to fit. I need to make a bracket on the bottom of the a-arm to hold the cable where I want. Per PMD's note above, I'm going to dry-run it through the suspension travel to make sure, and also check if I can go above the bolt as he did before I make up the bracket.

I need to spend a little bit reading ahead and seeing what's next. I think there are a few more panels, steering shaft final install, brake reservoir plumbing, then fuel/brake hard line plumbing (bending, fittings, mounting). This lets me know what I need to prepare (more powder coating, making brackets, etc)


Steering shaft mock up by Rick Shank, on Flickr

Accelerator pedal mock up by Rick Shank, on Flickr

Passenger cockpit by Rick Shank, on Flickr

​​​​​​​Passenger footbox - brushed by Rick Shank, on Flickr

[rickshank]

Any issues with running the 11” brake soft lines like this? The 20” line is a bit much, but this seems to give plenty of slack. Once I finally the steering shaft (I had it out for panel install), I’ll adjust the amount of slack on each side and use a stainless zip tie. IMG_0858.jpg

[RobHartley]

At the build school this was a location they recommended for the flexible brake line so that you didn't have to modify the aluminum panel. Just a thought...
Brake line placement.jpg

[rickshank]

This was one of those weeks I just needed to get through.

Rear brakes - *finally* got the right hardware / spacer setup. Background - 11.6" rear brakes / mix of Saturn / Ford I think. There's a bracket from FF to bolt to the IRS hubs. You need to center the caliper over the rotor, which you do with spacers. Unless you run out of room on the bolt, then you change the bolt. This was a 3x problem. First, replacement bolt was hex, not 12 point. Wrong, cable interference. Then, get 12 point bolt from Mcmaster. Wrong, it's 14mm, not 12mm, interference. Bel-metric was able to the me the right bolt. I don't know how many days this was, but too many.

Then, the emergency brake cable comes almost directly downwards, and needs something to keep the axle from getting it wrapped up. I made a small bracket from some 3"x.125 AL,bolted to the lower control arm. Needed new bolt here so that the nylon engaged in the locknut. AN lines - used Fragola PTFE lined hose. -4 for reservoirs. Which is more of a pain to assemble than the upcoming -6 for fuel.

Brake plumbing - AN lines for reservoirs to the non-standard Tilton MCs. That was mostly fine. It's tight. Very tight. If I was doing it from scratch, I'd do it a bit differently and give myself more room. Double-flared lines - ditched the FF lines (green coated steel for NiCopp). I wanted correct length, no unions, and I didn't mine flaring the lines. Used the Eastwood $$$ kit, after the first few practice tries, I was good. Getting the 2 lines from the MCs to the brake booster as one piece was more than difficult for my first time doing hard lines. 1/8" TIG rod helps for mockups and you get 36" to work with. More experienced folks would be better at how much the bend eats up, keeping things clocked better, etc.

Fuel lines - -6AN feed/return. It's overkill on my 347, but there's not a lot of options between 5/16 hard line / 1/4" return from FF and this. If I ever want more power, the fuel lines will handle it. I chose to run hard lines through the tunnel. I'll have a driveshaft safety loop, but there isn't any other place to put lines other than the tunnel. Otherwise the lines will hit ground first. I used some fancy adapters from Breeze Automotive to go from the 3/8" NiCopp to -6AN male. I need some AN fittings to move forward, I bought just a few so I wouldn't have a ton of unused ones. I want to 3d print custom width spacers/clamps for the hard lines front and rear to keep them oriented like I have them.

I need to read up to see what's next. I think....engine/trans, so that means the Mid-Shift kit needs done.

Plumbing reservoir by Rick Shank, on Flickr
Pedal box plumbed by Rick Shank, on Flickr
Plumbing front by Rick Shank, on Flickr
Plumbing pass side by Rick Shank, on Flickr
Plumbing tunnel by Rick Shank, on Flickr

​​​​​​​

[rickshank]

Plumbing rear by Rick Shank, on Flickr
Rear 11.6 brakes by Rick Shank, on Flickr

[rickster991]

Looks good! Install the front panels before you go too much further as they will interfere with everything you do up front. Or you can wait and cut them up to make them fit as I did.

[rickshank]

Which ones?

[rickshank]

Silver Star Transmissions / SST Front Shift conversion complete on my TKX.

1) Remove cover & stock shifter
2) Drive out 3 roll pins / you'll collect them later
3) Remove the neutral safety shift sensor/remove detent/reinstall nss sensor
4) Remove tail section
5) Collect roll pins / discard the shifter arms / shaft
6) Cut the two shift rods (they provide a collar as guide. Hardened steel, cutoff wheel with lots of chip protection & wet the towels/rags as plenty of hot sparks
7) Slowly reinstall case, place new selectors in place while the case is going back on.
8) Install couple bolts for now
9) Drive in 3 roll pins.
10) Install all case bolts
11) Realize you forgot the steel gasket for the tail case, go to Step 4 and repeat.
12) Reinstall cover with old (still new) gasket
13) Install new shifter (I used moly grease here)
14) Torque items - few items are 5-6 ft lbs, so this is pretty small. Don't strip this stuff.
15) Test shift action.


Adding a Flickr link to the 16 photos. https://www.flickr.com/photos/135788...77720330112199

[rickster991]

Which ones?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post588411

[rickshank]

Need some advice on where I can skip ahead to keep moving without boxing myself in/having to remove stuff.

- All suspension on
- Footbox inside/front panels / floor pan / rear cockpit AL on
- Pedal box installed / brake booster / plumbed
- Fuel lines from tank / filter done to rear of engine bay (AN to hard lines - -6AN fittings coming out of tunnel)
- Brakes 90% - waiting for replacement rear 11.65 adapter brackets as I tweaked the originals mounting with no spacer on once side. puts the caliper at an angle. Checked the brackets and one is definitely not flat. Waiting for replacement. Called FF, they're getting an update for me, may have lost the order from last Friday.
- Engine / trans ready to drop in . Forward shift kit installed on TKX
- Dave @ FF recommended I wait for chassis harness to be laid in / through front panels before dropping engine/trans in for first timer.
- Wiring harness on POL - no ETA yet from Ron Francis.
- Battery tray - going to update to new MKV setup. I'll make my own mounting brackets, but I'll buy the AL battery tray from them. FF doesn't have an engineering part number yet, and the person that can do it has left for the build school this weekend. Hopefully update on Monday. I don't want to cut/smooth the two frame diagonals until I'm 100% sure they're going to sell/ship me the new tray.

I know there is always something else that can be done - any tips? I was thinking about trunk AL, but without the harness, i'm making the wiring harder.

Thanks!!!

[edwardb]

Trunk aluminum can be drilled and Cleco'd. Just not permanently attached yet. Although trunk sides and back don't get in the way of anything.
Steering column and turn signal assembly
Instrument panel
Assemble headlights and fit to body
Same for rear lights
Never to soon to start tweaking the body. Straighten/clean perimeter, etc.

[rickshank]

Paul - thank you! I was hoping you'd be one of the folks to respond.


Steering/turn signal cam stuff done (that was ~6 hours of "therapy" ).

Great point on cleco for the panels - I'll get after that. I'll do that and the gauges. I'll begin reading more about the body prep, particular the perimeter stuff and lights.

Any reason to not get after Dynamat-type installation for the interior? I don't have it yet but Summit usually delivers next day.

[rickshank]

Anyone have a bit of a struggle with the trunk recess box hitting the fuel tank? I was just test fitting it in the cleco'd trunk panel and while it's tight, it hits the fuel tank on the passenger side. I made sure that the sheet metal for the trunk panel is not holding it up, there is clearance on all 4 sides. The chassis is driving the location for sure. I'm going to try to loosen the tank straps and see if that gives me enough.

[edwardb]

Paul - thank you! I was hoping you'd be one of the folks to respond.


Steering/turn signal cam stuff done (that was ~6 hours of "therapy" ).

Great point on cleco for the panels - I'll get after that. I'll do that and the gauges. I'll begin reading more about the body prep, particular the perimeter stuff and lights.

Any reason to not get after Dynamat-type installation for the interior? I don't have it yet but Summit usually delivers next day.

Yeah, I guess you could start laying down insulation. Personally, I prefer to have all the panels in place and I've mainly used Lizard Skin in the past. Not sure yet what I'm doing to use on my Mk5.

Anyone have a bit of a struggle with the trunk recess box hitting the fuel tank? I was just test fitting it in the cleco'd trunk panel and while it's tight, it hits the fuel tank on the passenger side. I made sure that the sheet metal for the trunk panel is not holding it up, there is clearance on all 4 sides. The chassis is driving the location for sure. I'm going to try to loosen the tank straps and see if that gives me enough.

Mine was tight too. FF didn't waste any space there. But I didn't have any interference. You did put the little plastic caps on the downtubes for the tank, right? Also, are you putting the box on top of the trunk floor or underneath? There have been suggestions to put the box underneath the floor (which I didn't do) but maybe that would be enough to cause interference.

[Jeff Kleiner]

You can assemble the windshield. Put together and install the door, hood & trunk latches as well as the hood hinges. Put the roll bar(s) on the chassis and drill them. Build the dash board.

Jeff

[rickshank]

Sorry for late response.

Loosening both straps up (note for next build - change those strap bolts to SHCS). This worked like a charm and the drop box fits in. Barely, but it's in.

Trunk sides/bottom now cleco'd. I'll probably grab a few of the front panels that Rickster noted and get those done, as well as prep/cleco the lower rear panel and the trunk drop box.

After that, dash.

[rickshank]

Dorman 610-290 studs are not a go for 11.65" brakes on IRS. Rotor holes are too small for the extended shoulder. Back to the 610-519s (original FF, larger knurl, smaller shoulder.

IMG_1165.jpgIMG_1164.jpg

[Jeff Kleiner]

Dorman 610-290 studs are not a go for 11.65" brakes on IRS. Rotor holes are too small for the extended shoulder. Back to the 610-519s (original FF, larger knurl, smaller shoulder.

IMG_1165.jpgIMG_1164.jpg

Just curious---why did you go to the Dorman studs rather than sticking with what FFR provided?

Jeff

[rickshank]

Stupidity on my part. My hydraulic press was still down at my dad's shop (not anymore ) and had a bit of a mess with trying to pull the originals in with nuts. They didn't sit flush. Thought the smaller knurl of the alternates would be easier for round 2. Not an expensive mistake, but still preventable.

[rickshank]

Morning folks, hope everyone is recovered from their turkey hangover.

As I wait for the parts (chassis harness, swaybars, and maybe, just maybe, purchase of a battery tray), I'm moving forward on what I can.

I might move forward on some insulation on the panels that are complete with their edges complete. That would be the floor, door side of cockpit, and cockpit rear wall. However, the cockpit rear wall has some "jutting" of a panel on both sides. Looking back, that was probably a red flag before I buttoned them in. Do these need trimmed (pulled/cut/edges finished/reinstalled) or what? About 1/4" overhang.

Also - with the A/C kit on the MKV, should i use the Gen3 Cobra instructions? When should some of the cockpit side start? https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-conte...en-3-REV-G.pdf

IMG_1190.jpgIMG_1189.jpg

[rickster991]

Make sure to use the latest version. But do not use the the locations for valves they use. They will not work for coupe. Also place the condenser on the bottom of the radiator rather than the top as it will get crushed by the body. Check out the later posts in my thread. The other thing I would do for simplicity is not use either of the bulkhead connectors. I did not use it for the heater hoses, but used it for the ac lines. Also since you have the BP 347 make sure to check out the heater hose I had to get for the water pump. Good luck.

[rickshank]

Thanks, Rick! Any feedback on that rear cockpit panel?

I'm waiting on the radiator/condenser until the motor is in.

[rickster991]

Hmm mine overlapped as well. If it bothers you trim it. The seat will cover it otherwise.

[rickshank]

Small but meaningful updates.

1) Brakes - rear . DONE. Finally. Calipers line up in terms of the rotor centerline, etc. Found some other stuff to re-do while I was in there.
2) Wheels on the car, car sits on its own feet. Alignment way off, haven't mocked something up there yet.
3) Trunk/rear panels fitted/cleco'd in place
4) 5 more panels installed on front, one which required brake line clamp to move (thanks, Rickster!). #3/4 here was 10 more panels.
5) Hood/trunk hinges cleaned up, powder coated, and hood hinges assembled. Not much to assemble to trunk hinges.
6) And mentally, big win for me. First *real* part out of the 3d printer that I designed from scratch, not a follow-along exercise. 3/8 nicopp fuel hard lines, Clamping them here keeps them from rotating. Front and rear clamps. Full parametric design, within reason to just update the tubing size, width between centers, socket head cap screw details, hex nut / nylock. Printed in PLA for now, I have a roll of ASA that I'll dry and print. After I move the printer at least temporarily to the garage for that print due to fumes. This will be useful for AN lines as well.

I'll do some insulation next, but only on panels where the adjacent panels are done as well. Rear cockpit wall, cockpit floor (staying a bit back from tunnel), and vertical door area. Floor is turned up to warm up the insulation panels.

Also still have windshield to prep, rollbars to test fit/drill and and dash panel to start. Big thing I'm waiting for is the RF wiring harness, still. I don't know if those are different based on options (non-coyote, A/C, wipers), but I picked up my kit at the end of August and I'm still waiting.

Trunk panels by Rick Shank, on Flickr
More panels by Rick Shank, on Flickr
Hood hinge prep by Rick Shank, on Flickr
3d print separator by Rick Shank, on Flickr
Fuel line separator by Rick Shank, on Flickr

[TrackDay17]

Small but meaningful updates.

1) Brakes - rear . DONE. Finally. Calipers line up in terms of the rotor centerline, etc. Found some other stuff to re-do while I was in there.
2) Wheels on the car, car sits on its own feet. Alignment way off, haven't mocked something up there yet.
3) Trunk/rear panels fitted/cleco'd in place
4) 5 more panels installed on front, one which required brake line clamp to move (thanks, Rickster!). #3/4 here was 10 more panels.
5) Hood/trunk hinges cleaned up, powder coated, and hood hinges assembled. Not much to assemble to trunk hinges.
6) And mentally, big win for me. First *real* part out of the 3d printer that I designed from scratch, not a follow-along exercise. 3/8 nicopp fuel hard lines, Clamping them here keeps them from rotating. Front and rear clamps. Full parametric design, within reason to just update the tubing size, width between centers, socket head cap screw details, hex nut / nylock. Printed in PLA for now, I have a roll of ASA that I'll dry and print. After I move the printer at least temporarily to the garage for that print due to fumes. This will be useful for AN lines as well.

I'll do some insulation next, but only on panels where the adjacent panels are done as well. Rear cockpit wall, cockpit floor (staying a bit back from tunnel), and vertical door area. Floor is turned up to warm up the insulation panels.

Also still have windshield to prep, rollbars to test fit/drill and and dash panel to start. Big thing I'm waiting for is the RF wiring harness, still. I don't know if those are different based on options (non-coyote, A/C, wipers), but I picked up my kit at the end of August and I'm still waiting.

Trunk panels by Rick Shank, on Flickr
More panels by Rick Shank, on Flickr
Hood hinge prep by Rick Shank, on Flickr
3d print separator by Rick Shank, on Flickr
Fuel line separator by Rick Shank, on Flickr

My kit was delivered November 7th and the wiring harness is on of the things on my pol list too.
I'm well behind you though so I have lots to do.
I'm waiting on my rear toe control arms which somehow didn't make it with my other rear end parts.

I'm wondering if I should wait until my fuel tank arrives to drill and cleco the rear trunk portion since it might interfere with the tank.

[rickshank]

My kit was delivered November 7th and the wiring harness is on of the things on my pol list too.
I'm well behind you though so I have lots to do.
I'm waiting on my rear toe control arms which somehow didn't make it with my other rear end parts.

I'm wondering if I should wait until my fuel tank arrives to drill and cleco the rear trunk portion since it might interfere with the tank.

I can't see the rear trunk portion being in the way. Minus the drop section.

[rickshank]

It's been discussed already - the MKV went through an update sometime in the 2nd half of this year for the battery tray setup. I picked up my car at end of August and it's got the original. The new one lets the battery come out of the bottom.

I've been trying to get one of the new trays at least but multiple calls and I'm not able to get one (no part number or pricing nor timeline). I usually ask about my harness while I'm on.

Enter....Rick buys a 3rd printer and learns Autocad Fusion 360. I'm no pro and only a few weeks into CAD/3d printing.

1) made the component mockups as two bodies in Fusion, allowing me to make sure they fit
2) parametric model I could revise dimensions until I was happy.
3) 3d print some versions to test fit. The outer tubes are not parallel, and the starting dimension from the rear has two welds in the way of measuring. Learned how to hack up a body split and create basic dovetail.
4) Plan is to send both part models to SendCutSend - one is just laser cut steel, the other laser cut 5052 AL with a bent lip.
5) I have the battery and waiting for the mount, should be here this week. That'll allow me to put the hardware holes for that in the model. The big red box of my model is the exterior / largest dimensions of the mount from the shop.
6) also sketched up some basic alignment blocks that will be used for welding this thing in. They're in the shot of my bare chassis.
7) How this will work - cut the diagonals back, probably put a cross tube in place just to keep the opening size underneath to a minimum. Instead of grinding down the rear stubs too tight against the chassis, I have a .250" notch in my bracket so I don't damage the original cross tube. Grind/sand clean, use the blocks to mount the bracket (with tray bolt on to minimize distortion), and weld it. Paint it. I might paint some of the bracket first and tape off areas near welds to make final paint easier.

Happy to hear any feedback. Obviously rubber hits the road once I install it.

Updated Manual by Rick Shank, on Flickr
Current space from bottom by Rick Shank, on Flickr
New tray in place by Rick Shank, on Flickr
3d print test by Rick Shank, on Flickr
Model by Rick Shank, on Flickr

[rickshank]

Installing some seat heaters. Standard vinyl roadster seats.

Bottoms are straightforward - take off the glued on panel (marked outline first), cut a groove for the wire, attach pad (slightly trimmed corners), and re-glue.

Top, I've read on some posts that hog ring pliers weren't needed. Not sure if those are the leather seats or different variations. I'm struggling looking at this (and trying to get my hand in there) to see how this can be done without cutting the hog rings.

Any thoughts? I did order a set of pliers/rings from Amazon, $16 or so, here Friday I think. Just in case.

[edwardb]

Installing some seat heaters. Standard vinyl roadster seats.

Bottoms are straightforward - take off the glued on panel (marked outline first), cut a groove for the wire, attach pad (slightly trimmed corners), and re-glue.

Top, I've read on some posts that hog ring pliers weren't needed. Not sure if those are the leather seats or different variations. I'm struggling looking at this (and trying to get my hand in there) to see how this can be done without cutting the hog rings.

Any thoughts? I did order a set of pliers/rings from Amazon, $16 or so, here Friday I think. Just in case.

Just did the seat heaters in my build this past Sunday. Posted about it my build thread. The leather seats that came with my 30th Anniversary kit only had two hog rings total. In the corners and didn't need to be removed. Everything else held in place with plastic channels. Interesting that some seats (I guess the vinyl covered ones?) are still using hog rings. I've done several that were that way. Not hard, just takes longer. They're relatively soft material so easy enough to open with a couple of pliers. Regular or needle nose. Then for reassembly, I used the same rings and closed them back up with regular pliers. Dedicated hog ring pliers might be easier, I don't know. But the process would be similar. Take pictures before taking apart and use to get things back the way they were. Good luck.

[rickshank]

Thanks, Paul! I used the same heaters you did. I was a bit worried they may be too big based on the website dimensions, but they’re a bit smaller and fine.

I’ll grab some photos and also get a second set of hands for that part. It’ll save some frustration.

I wanted to verify I wasn’t missing anything obvious, appreciate the quick note!

[rickshank]

Waiting for a second set of hands for the seat heaters in the back, but my SendCutSend order came in.

2 boxes arrived earlier in the week from FF, unannounced. One was very obvious that it contained sway bars. I was a bit giddy to open the second, smaller but hefty box. Unfortunately, sway bar hardware. No chassis harness yet. 4 months from my pickup in MA.

My version of the updated MKV battery tray (removable from the bottom). I'm just learning CAD/3d printing, this was my second real CAD project. Bracket is 1008 steel, tray is 5052-H32 aluminum. I powder coated the tray before installing. Battery is an Antigravity Li-Ion with restart, but the tray dimensions will hold another battery.

SendCutSend order by Rick Shank, on Flickr
Test fit of steel bracket by Rick Shank, on Flickr
Tacked in from bottom by Rick Shank, on Flickr
Front view by Rick Shank, on Flickr
Front view by Rick Shank, on Flickr

[2nd2none]

No chassis harness yet. 4 months from my pickup in MA.

Just got my Mk5 kit a few days ago and also missing the chassis harness. Hopefully they have enough coming in so everyone waiting on them gets one.

[danmas]

Waiting for a second set of hands for the seat heaters in the back, but my SendCutSend order came in.

2 boxes arrived earlier in the week from FF, unannounced. One was very obvious that it contained sway bars. I was a bit giddy to open the second, smaller but hefty box. Unfortunately, sway bar hardware. No chassis harness yet. 4 months from my pickup in MA.

My version of the updated MKV battery tray (removable from the bottom). I'm just learning CAD/3d printing, this was my second real CAD project. Bracket is 1008 steel, tray is 5052-H32 aluminum. I powder coated the tray before installing. Battery is an Antigravity Li-Ion with restart, but the tray dimensions will hold another battery.

SendCutSend order by Rick Shank, on Flickr
Test fit of steel bracket by Rick Shank, on Flickr
Tacked in from bottom by Rick Shank, on Flickr
Front view by Rick Shank, on Flickr
Front view by Rick Shank, on Flickr

Looks great. I’m a bit envious of the 3d printer bit. May do that for next build. Love that you can model it out and then send the files for a steel part. That’s awesome…

[rickshank]

I wanted one before but convinced myself to wait until I could make some models in CAD on my own. It’s been great for that. For the bracket above, I made some quick spacers/alignment pieces to hold the bracket up 1/4” from the bottom of the frame. No fiddling with clamps. $400 for the Bambu P1S. There is a newer one, but that one does what I need just fine.

[PMD24]

Rick, very nice work on the battery tray! Curious if you had any experience before trying the CAD work for 3D printing. I've got an engineering background and lots of work with design plans but no actual CAD experience at all. I'd like to try it but can't commit a ton of time to it. Between skiing, grandkids, and car, I'm already stretched. Good thing I'm retired!

Thanks,

Pat

[rickshank]

I was a total newbie to CAD and always felt overwhelmed even opening the app. I followed some online programs and it didn't "click" last year. I tried it again in November and it clicked.

I'm already looking at my tire changing machine and figuring out a way to sketch up a thick spacer (2 thick plates with a thick piece of rectangular tubing in between vertically for air). The hardest part will be welding that up but I just need to take my time. The spacer will let me do wheels >10 (such as my rear Roadster wheels that I paid for mounting).

[Mike.Bray]

I started out doing my own 3D printing with a little cheapie unit from Amazon. Of course it would only do plastic. In my day job as an R&D engineer I do a lot of 3D printed parts in various metals so of course I farm those out. The absolute best site I've found so far for 3D printing is Craftcloud. https://craftcloud3d.com/

I'm playing around with some ideas to convert my spare set of FFR sidepipes into free flowing sidepipes for my 68 Camaro, something like this. The part outlined in red is the Cobra sidepipe.

Side Exhaust.jpg

I had a couple of the pipes with compound curves 3D printed from stainless steel.

20251117_170524.jpg

Most of you have seen my steering wheel center insert, Craftcloud printed it in aluminum..

20240423_102301 (Medium) Rotated.jpg

[rickshank]

Mike, very cool!

For the pipes - would a 3d print hold up to the vibrations/heat? Obviously amazing for mock-up but I wonder if there isn't a CNC bend option from a CAD drawing.

I need to check out CraftCloud. I do want to get a mill here, I may start with a bench top unit that can later be converted to CNC.

[Mike.Bray]

For the pipes - would a 3d print hold up to the vibrations/heat? Obviously amazing for mock-up but I wonder if there isn't a CNC bend option from a CAD drawing.

The other two pipes will be conventional mandrel bends and I'll use them to help support the 3D printed ones. They seem pretty robust, they are stainless steel after all. I do have a test piece I've been beating on lol

Yes, I did find options for bending but it's very expensive. VERY. Other option would be to buy bends and cut/weld like I used to do for headers and exhaust. But I'm too old for that now.

[rickshank]

Chassis harness arrived!

Here's a silly question. Where does the firewall installation get covered Step 1 of the Chassis Wiring Harness install is a big hole in the firewall.

Doing a search for firewall in the Roadster manual, as well as the part number 17481, not covered. This seems like I'm missing something dumb.

Excited to get back into this thing!!!
--edit--

Talked to FF today.

Start with the Type 65 coupe instructions. Don't use the RF book that came with the harness (Rev Y, Jan 2025, I assumed it was MKV). It's likely better but not off to a great/clear start. Example, step 1 - "Route the front and rear harness through the transmission tunnel top front panel." That's not where it goes on the Roadster.

Dash will be much later, but it's definitely not covered in the build manual, anywhere.