Hello to everyone. By my double spacing after periods I guess as my kids would say I am the older generation now. I recently purchased my MK5 Kit, and when time permits I try to piece it together in a somewhat careful and methodical way. There are so many great tips and builders on here, the resources are tremendous.
I will try and post pics, and for those that see something wrong, please do not hesitate to chime in. I am located in Katy TX, just outside of Houston. I have been designing wheels and other car parts for 25 years, and before that I was in finance.
Some specs to my build
MK5
Wilwood Brake upgrade
Engine plans 427 (obviously just for the vanity number)
Trans TKX
Coil Overs with IRS
Color: Blue, but not sure which exact blue yet
Hopefully my pics upload!
Welcome to the club! Say, your build sheet connected to your headlight opening says 'IRS/POWDER/CO'....mine said the same on my MkIV, and I presumed the 'CO' meant 'Coyote', as I ordered my Complete Kit will all the Coyote options, then later pivoted to a 427SBF. You mentioned you're going with a 427. Did you spec your kit with Coyote bits like I did? Or maybe 'CO' doesn't mean 'Coyote'. Maybe it means 'Complete Kit'?
Greg
Last edited by gbranham; 10-27-2025 at 11:34 AM.
Built an early MkIII years ago, sold years ago. Back after 18 years to build a MkIV Build Thread Here Partners: Levy Racing, Summit Racing, LMR, Breeze, Forte's Parts, Speedhut, ReplicaParts
MkIV Complete Kit Ordered 4/18/23, Delivered 7/11/23, First start 3/15/25. Legal 6/13/25. Boss 427W, Edelbrock Pro Flo 4, TKX (.68 5th), IRS, Wilwood Brakes, 18" Halibrands, Toyo R888R Tires, Custom Speedhut Gauges
Built an early MkIII years ago, sold years ago. Back after 18 years to build a MkIV Build Thread Here Partners: Levy Racing, Summit Racing, LMR, Breeze, Forte's Parts, Speedhut, ReplicaParts
MkIV Complete Kit Ordered 4/18/23, Delivered 7/11/23, First start 3/15/25. Legal 6/13/25. Boss 427W, Edelbrock Pro Flo 4, TKX (.68 5th), IRS, Wilwood Brakes, 18" Halibrands, Toyo R888R Tires, Custom Speedhut Gauges
Welcome to the club! Say, your build sheet connected to your headlight opening says 'IRS/POWDER/CO'....mine said the same on my MkIV, and I presumed the 'CO' meant 'Coyote', as I ordered my Complete Kit will all the Coyote options, then later pivoted to a 427SBF. You mentioned you're going with a 427. Did you spec your kit with Coyote bits like I did? Or maybe 'CO' doesn't mean 'Coyote'. Maybe it means 'Complete Kit'?
Greg
hi
spec is based on the 351. Ford offers a short block 427 that I was looking at, as it has the appropriate bore to stroke ratio. Yes I ordered the complete kit I am not sure if we are still calling it a SBF or many call the 427 a mid block.
Yep, I'm familiar...I built my engine starting with Ford's Boss 427 shortblock. Still considered a small block Ford.
Built an early MkIII years ago, sold years ago. Back after 18 years to build a MkIV Build Thread Here Partners: Levy Racing, Summit Racing, LMR, Breeze, Forte's Parts, Speedhut, ReplicaParts
MkIV Complete Kit Ordered 4/18/23, Delivered 7/11/23, First start 3/15/25. Legal 6/13/25. Boss 427W, Edelbrock Pro Flo 4, TKX (.68 5th), IRS, Wilwood Brakes, 18" Halibrands, Toyo R888R Tires, Custom Speedhut Gauges
1. My son built a body Buck which we took the body off the frame and are storing in my warehouse. The car cover was a nice add on.
2. Built a large rolling dolly. I did this with some wheel I ordered off Amazon and some ideas from other members.
3. Did inventory. This is a get some caffeine in you thing, as most may agree, this is not a fun part, but a needed part. Also inspected the body and shell.
4. Labeled each body part with a grease pen, and took pictures and videoed the entire body. Attachment 220766Attachment 220767Attachment 220768
Next step, a simple one, was to install the Steering Rack. Per instructions in the book, I knocked out the current bushings and put in the new ones. I used a large socket head to knock out the old ones, and used some suspension grease when putting in the new ones. One of the original ones was a bit sticky to get out, as there was a snag in the bushing hole that it caught, which I smoothed out.
On installing the rack, on the driver side, the opening was a little small for the bushing sleeve, thus I slightly ground down the sleeve maybe 1-2mm. I could have opened up fit with a spanner rod also, but it only needed minor adjustments. IMG_6691.jpgIMG_6696.jpgIMG_6699.jpg
Next per the book procedures were to put together the coil overs, and install the upper and lower A arms.
1. The coil overs were pretty simple, slide the sleeve over, screw the sleeve all the way down, grease the shim/insert, put spring on, slide top cap on, then screw the spring up until tight, and install clip. I did this one extra time as I noticed the Factory Five wording upside down on the spring and did not like this.
2. The A Arms were easy. Just used the vice to install the Ball joints.
Torqued down the Lower A Arms at parallel height. Installed the upper mount of the coil overs with equal spacers on both sides. Nothing complicated here. Just follow the instructions.
The only thing which I considered was clear coating the lower forged arm for easier cleaning. Being in Texas we do not get road salt or other, so decided not to.
Next items I did
1. Attach lower control arm and Coil Over. Made sure to use spacers on lower Coil Over mount as directed in manual.
2. Torque upper Arm bolts to body. Upper Arms on both sides are at same amount of threads.
3. Install correct studs in bearing (used impact/5lb mallet/WD40/lug and washer), normal install per most on the forums.
4. Install front spindle.
5. Used nifty Grease Gun with multiple fittings to hit all fittings.
6. Install sway bar
7. Center steering rack, left to right to center. Counted threads and turns, but it appears somehow my rotors are definitely not parallel.
Next step is to separate the upper control arm from the spindle, throw the blue ball joint dust covers in the trash, order the Energy Suspension replacements, install and reassemble.
Oh, and your installation manual should have a rough measurement to use as a guide from center of left tie rid to center of right tie rod....something like 53 inches if memory serves. Get it close, and forget about it until you are ready for an alignment. Geometry changes when you have the weight of the engine compressing the suspension.
Your passenger side tie rod doesn't appear to be threaded onto the black shaft as far as the driver's side, for what its worth.
Built an early MkIII years ago, sold years ago. Back after 18 years to build a MkIV Build Thread Here Partners: Levy Racing, Summit Racing, LMR, Breeze, Forte's Parts, Speedhut, ReplicaParts
MkIV Complete Kit Ordered 4/18/23, Delivered 7/11/23, First start 3/15/25. Legal 6/13/25. Boss 427W, Edelbrock Pro Flo 4, TKX (.68 5th), IRS, Wilwood Brakes, 18" Halibrands, Toyo R888R Tires, Custom Speedhut Gauges
You may want to replace the front LCA zerk fitting to a 90 degree. Easy to do now! It will make greasing much easier in the future unless your grease gun has a special attachment to sneak behind the LCA.
You may want to replace the front LCA zerk fitting to a 90 degree. Easy to do now! It will make greasing much easier in the future unless your grease gun has a special attachment to sneak behind the LCA.
Ed Z
My grease gun has a 90 degree attachment on it, and a few others to get into harder locations.
While assembling the coil overs did you check the rebound setting on the shocks? They don't always come out of the box set to the full soft position which is the preferred setting. As for "why am I off on the alignment"...with the suspension at droop things can look wonky. Once it's at ride height with an initial alignment it'll all come together.
While assembling the coil overs did you check the rebound setting on the shocks? They don't always come out of the box set to the full soft position which is the preferred setting. As for "why am I off on the alignment"...with the suspension at droop things can look wonky. Once it's at ride height with an initial alignment it'll all come together.
Jeff
These were the Koni Reds that were in the coil over kit and far as I can tell had no adjustability on them: 30-1720 in the manual
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So I went ahead and did a few more steps. I started to assemble the E Brake, but was missing pieces, which of course the piece I needed was not on the parts check in sheet as it was part within the EBrake box. Thus onwards to rear suspension and pedal box.
Rear Suspension. Of note, I wish the instructions mentioned that if you had a rear sway bar you would need to be put in ath the same time as the LCA and toe adjuster -- I should have read ahead and seen this! My toe and alignment is kinda wonky, but I will straighten it out fairly soon.
The Wilwoods I got centered fairly easy with the shims, no biggy. To tighten the CV I used a fan blade on the rotor to hold it steady.
The Diff plate, to hold it steady I used a screw driver between bolts and torqued. All my bolts went in flush and torqued easy. Pic if anyone needs it available.
The foot pedal box. I would recommend assembling this out of the car then installing. I had to shim the upper bracket to be parallel with the frame.
I am for the time being going with the manual clutch, as this is what I grew up with on some high HP cars, I may switch it in the long run.
The pedal arms from Wilwood I may also change. I would prefer these be CNC and brushed, as it would look good, and honestly you would not have to grind the casting ridge down if it was this way.
As usual, if someone sees something I am doing glaringly wrong LMK.
After a delay due to working on another car, and of course the regular work, I got a chance to move forward.
Installed the Brake Booster (painted it Black), and ran my lines to the firewall where I connected with 3AN fittings (37 degree on AN). I then replaced the Wilwood MC fittings with the correct NPT fittings as I did not like the angle on the ones with the kit or the way the orifice on exit is clocked. I ran from the MC to the firewall, and am running from firewall to reservoirs via SS flex line, as I plan on mounting them on the backside of the engine bay.
Definite some learning curve as far as fittings, but great resources here and calling Wilwood.
Adding to the build
1. Trickflow Fuel Filter (I trimmed a hair of the fuel tank hanger to get plenty of clearance)
2. Fuel pressure regulator (in middle of rear brace)
3. Evil Energy 6AN lines
4. 340 LPH Fuel pump with 6AN inlet and outlet lines
#1 and 2 thanks to Paul (Edward) for this, his meticulous work is always appreciated and used by many.
Last edited by wheelindex; 02-27-2026 at 10:04 AM.
Adding to the build
1. Trickflow Fuel Filter (I trimmed a hair of the fuel tank hanger to get plenty of clearance)
2. Fuel pressure regulator (in middle of rear brace)
3. Evil Energy 6AN lines
4. 340 LPH Fuel pump with 6AN inlet and outlet lines
#1 and 2 thanks to Paul (Edward) for this, his meticulous work is always appreciated and used by many.
Looking good. Just a question, will you be able to service, and or, adjust the regulator with the sheet metal and drop trunk in ? I'm at basically the same stage in my build, plumbing the fuel system.
I can get to it on my lift, but once it is set I see no reason that I would need to adjust it. I may run an extender on the gauge so I can see it easier. I copied this from Paul (EdwardB)
MK5 - No Adjustable Quadrant - Middle Trans cover oddities
Well, most the panels are on prior to powdercoating them Black. The rear panels had some wave to them, but after manipulation they seem ok. I had one panel on the inside passenger corner that did not fit perfect, but honestly corner behind the seat -- its in just not perfect.
Of note:
1. I was planning on using a manual clutch as I have had multiple Mustangs. Went to install a firewall adjuster - no way its going in. Interference on the front frame on the outside, if I flip the adjuster to have the short side out, interference with the actual quadrant. So now I am down to the fork adjustment I guess or go with adding a MC.
2. I think others have noted this, but the middle trans tunnel, I was planning ahead, and it looks like the bezel/trim is going to overlap between the shifter and ebrake. This is odd. I am still backordered on my parking brake handle for 6 months - so can not really mock up what I need to do to tackle this. All in due time is my reasoning on it. Watching what others do, weather it be wilwood ebrake switch or make a new panel.
Always some challenges, which make it more interesting. Overall still fun to work on and fun to see others projects.
So, I know many use the aftermarket pedal, which do look great. I am attempting to use the FFR pedal.
I have redrilled the hole and moved the pedal as far to the right as I think possible without interference with carpet/padding. If anyone has good knowledge of how far over you can go lmk. In addition I bent the upper bar to try and make the path of the cable as straight as possible and not hitting the Steering Shaft.
On the clutch cable -- for the time being I am going old school manual clutch, unless further down the line I decide to change. A few items of note:
1. The angle of the manual clutch is too harsh to run an adjuster at the wall.
2. The screw hole that holds the clutch in I have never liked as it is flimsy so I used a rivnut attachment
3. If you were to cut the sheet metal the same size as the hole you have like 2mm of sheet metal on the outside - it is extremely tight.
I plan on running the body attachment of the cable rivnuted to the panel. If my cable binds I plan on carrying an extra and being able to pull the cable out of the main firewall body and sliding the new one in. Not easy I know.
When we were fitting panels the corner "ice cream cones" (as the Build School referred to them) required some minor tweaking to fit around welds on the frame. For us there have been a couple of these due the thick welds including the both of the front panels of the foot boxes, they did not sit flush to the chassis as the welds were proud. 20260331_121316a.jpg20260331_121329.jpg
Yep, definitely come into the weld hump issue here and there, and normally I just grind down the panel a hair when I hit that. I think a grinding wheel and tool are mandatory on a build.
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Originally Posted by Mike.Bray
