Dave and Sheri Build a 30th Anniversary MkV - Coil Covers, Heater Hose

[2nd2none]

I think your steering column hole will need to be modified if using the FFR supplied turn signals

[Dave Howard]

The fuel tank went in as per the assembly instructions. One issue I had with my 2012 build was a torn filler neck gasket. This happened about a year after the car was completed. Discovered it from the gas leak after filling the tank. I replaced it with a Ford OEM part and have never had an issue since. Therefore, on this build, i bought and installed a Ford gasket to start with. The sending unit was installed but I didn't have the rest of the fuel system when the tank was installed in the car. I have since received those parts and will be tackling the fuel system after aluminum panel installation is complete. I am using a Holley 12-345 Sniper fuel pump, an Evil Energy 100 micro filter and an Aeromotive 100 psi fuel pressure regulator. Fuel supply and return lines are both 3/8". I am using PTFE hose with stainless steel and black nylon covering.

[Dave Howard]

The emergency brake cables have been attached to the calipers using the FFR supplied adaptors for Wilwood braking system. The cables were fished through the frame and through the 2 hole in the transmission tunnel. I am not using the FFR supplied brake handle. I do not care for the mounting location and find the looks of the handle on the transmission tunnel next to the gear shifter doesn't do it for me. I have purchased an E-Stop Emergency Brake system from 520 Speedworks. Ill be documenting the installation once the components arrive.

[Dave Howard]

The Wilwood pedal box was installed with 3 Wilwood master cylinder assemblies. As per the FFR instructions, switch mounts were installed for the clutch and brake pedals. FFR supplied switches were installed. 5/8" was removed from the threaded end of all master cylinders. I am installing a Coyote based engine (Aluminator), so an addition bracket was installed for the clutch travel switch. I am still waiting for the Control Pack, therefore the clutch travel switch hasn't been installed yet.

[Dave Howard]

The steering components were fitted and the turn signal assembly installed and aligned. This required the installation of the first aluminum anodized panel - the front for the left footbox. The panel had to be bent some to get it past the various frame tubes. This resulted in the first powder coat scratch. Once in place, the rivet location was determined. There are a few tight spots to take into consideration. Another thing to consider is all the other panels that will be in contact with the front panel. Specifically the outter front panel. The manual has this being installed later in the process. I elected to install in now and drill it, the front panel and the frame at the same time. I used a silver Sharpie to make hole locations, and put a piece of duct tape on my drill chuck to protect the anodized finish. The inside rivets are not installed at this time to allow for the footbox inside panels to be installed at a later time. The lower shaft was a good length and did not require any modification. The middle shaft had to be cut to 12.5" in length. The upper steering shaft needed a good going over with emery cloth so it would slide smoothly into the 1' DD shaft. The other end of the upper steering shaft as needed some refinement for the steering wheel to slide on. The turn signal assembly was installed and the upper steering shaft slid into place. I've included a picture to illustrate how much out of center the initial set up was. Several washers were used as shims under the top pillow block bearing.
There are several steps in the build that are finicky. The steering/turn signal installation being one. Not complaining. I took me all day.

[Dave Howard]

Aluminum panels for the footboxes were prepped for installation. I do not have the control pack for the 5.0 Aluminator yet, so the left footbox inside panels have not been riveted in place yet. Also, both left and right outer panels have not be riveted yet to allow access to the inside of the footboxes for further assembly. I used painters tape around the edges of some panels as I moved them into position. This prevented further powder coat scratches and protected the anodized finish. I installed the right footbox outer front now. The left and right cockpit transmission side were also positioned and the front mounting holes drilled through the back tab of the inside panels. Again, easier to drill those now and have them line up with the footbox inside panels. I had to purchase another set of cleco fasteners. The ones I had for my 2012 build are being used by my son on his build in British Columbia. Im not sure how people can get through the panel installation without clecos. I used clear exterior grade silicone caulk to seal the panels before riveting. Messy sh*t, but cleans up with acetone if you get it before it dries.

[Dave Howard]

A few more footbox panel assembly photos.

[Sharris2]

We're you able to find a color match for the frame and the panels for touch ups?

[Dave Howard]

We're you able to find a color match for the frame and the panels for touch ups?

FFR provided me the colour code for the powder coat. I'm heading to the local auto parts store today to see if they can make a rattlecan with the same colour. Fingers crossed.

[Sharris2]

I reached out to ffr for it but haven't heard back; can you message it to me?
Thanks Scott

[Dave Howard]

I reached out to ffr for it but haven't heard back; can you message it to me?
Thanks Scott

message sent

[PNWTim]

The Wilwood pedal box was installed with 3 Wilwood master cylinder assemblies. As per the FFR instructions, switch mounts were installed for the clutch and brake pedals. FFR supplied switched were installed. 5/8" was removed from the threaded end of all master cylinders. I am installing a Coyote based engine (Aluminator), so an addition bracket was installed for the clutch travel switch. I am still waiting for the Control Pack, therefore the clutch travel switch hasn't been installed yet.

Hi Dave - nice work so far, I just read through your thread. A quick question on your switch install. It looks like you have installed two brake switches on the underside of the pedal box (one on the brake pedal and one on the clutch pedal). I don't believe you need one on the clutch as the switch that comes with the control pack will address the "lock out" command for the ECM. Maybe the Aluminator is different? You commented there is a clutch travel switch so perhaps I am incorrect. Either way, thought I would comment and I look forward to following your build.

[Dave Howard]

Hi Dave - nice work so far, I just read through your thread. A quick question on your switch install. It looks like you have installed two brake switches on the underside of the pedal box (one on the brake pedal and one on the clutch pedal). I don't believe you need one on the clutch as the switch that comes with the control pack will address the "lock out" command for the ECM. Maybe the Aluminator is different? You commented there is a clutch travel switch so perhaps I am incorrect. Either way, thought I would comment and I look forward to following your build.

Hello and thanks for the comment. Clutch switch/brake switch You’re right. I don’t have the control pack yet which contains the clutch switch needed. My Gen 1 Coyote didn’t come with a special switch. I’ll be removing the one in photo.

[Dave Howard]

I've deviated from the FFR assembly manual sequence a little. The next step is supposed to be the installation of cockpit aluminum. I started to drill the back wall of the cockpit and realized I should mount the trunk front piece under the 90 degree lip. I didn't want to block access for running fuel/brake/electrical systems so decide to stop with the panels and shifted focus. I started with the front brakes. The stainless steel mounts for the brake line adaptor to AN brake line were gives a few minutes on the polishing wheel.

Next, the mounting location was determined and the front wheel upper inside splash panel was modified to allow the brake line adaptor to stick through.

I elected to install these panels permanently now so as not to interfere with the running of brake lines and wiring harness.
The mounts for the brake line adaptors were riveted in place.

[Dave Howard]

Next was the tedious task of bending and installing the front brake lines. Although its not hard, it just a bunch of measuring measuring measuring before committing to a bend. I used a length of copper wire to determine the location and angle of each bend. Then, used the wire as a template for each bend. I started with the section between the left and right brake. Once completed, the line was secured to the frame with stainless steel holders and a flare wrench used to snug up the connections.


The route from the left brake master cylinder to the left front brake was tackled next. Much like my 2012 MkIV build I came through the footbox front under the 1.5" tube. The line passes through a rubber grommet for protection. All but the last bend and flare at the T were performed on the bench.

[Dave Howard]

The rear brake lines were an easier run. I changed the fitting on the right master cylinder to allow me to come straight back, before bending 90 degrees under the steering DD shaft.

The transition of this line from inside the cockpit to outside is at the top of the transmission tunnel.


This panel will be modified later as the hydraulic line to the clutch external slave cylinder, and the chassis wiring harness will also transition at this spot. The rear brake line runs along the bottom of the transmission top tube on the left side. Fuels lines and chassis wiring harness will also run in this location. Once at the back, under the trunk, the line was T'ed and short runs made to left and right with pig tails at the end. Polished stainless steel mounts for the hose adaptors were installed and the rear brake connections secured.

[Dave Howard]

I got a start on the fuel system. I'm using a larger fuel pump (Holley 12-345) to supply the blown Aluminator I'm using for power. The filter was upgraded and installed in the same general location as outlined in the manual. I haven't done compression fuel fittings in a while and messed up my first attempt. Im using PTFE line and I twisted one connection so it had to be redone. The fittings are reusable. They require a new ferrule. The pressure regulation will be mounted on the firewall in the engine compartment. I'll get to that later. I had to order another length of fuel line for the return line. My original calculation for what I needed was off. The return line will be run from the fuel pump forward and terminated at the regulator at a later date.

[Dave Howard]

For my 2012 MKkIV build I used Dynamat Supreme for sound deadening. It was pain to install after the car was complete. On this build I am using a similar but cheaper product called Kilmat. I am using 80 mil thick sheets. I've started to do the inside of the footboxes while they are open and exposed. Easy to measure. Easy to cut. The Kilmat sheets are embossed with 1/2" x 1/4" rectangles. Easy to install. I used a set of rollers to smooth out the finished product.

[cv2065]

I used the Kil Mat as well. I liked working with the smaller pieces versus a roll on the ThermoTec. Also saved material and money as very little waste. Looking good Dave!

[rponfick]

If you don't screw up a few of your brake line bends, you are making the rest of us look bad. Besides, then you don't have anything to hang on your "wall of shame" in your garage.
Ralph

[Higgybulin]

Dave, you didnt mention anything about putting together your steering shafts(unless I missed it), any issues?
Higgy

[Dave Howard]

Dave, you didnt mention anything about putting together your steering shafts(unless I missed it), any issues?
Higgy

My post #45 talked about the steering shaft. I did candy coat it a bit. Just another one of those finicky steps. I did have to shorten the middle shaft, and I had to spend a bunch of time with emery cloth to get the top shaft to slide into the 1" DD, and for the steering wheel to slide onto the other end. I kept all the U joints slack until the entire system was assembled then started at the rack and pinion en to adjust the correct position and tighten. Them worked up to the next one an so forth up to the end. The bearings were not snugged down until the tyrn indicator was adjusted. The pillow block needed a few washer shims to get the steering shaft in the center of the canceling turn signal switch. Once the turn signal was done I went back and gave enverything a final tighten....then checked the turn signal again.

[Higgybulin]

Gotcha, I was just out in the shop and realized the middle shaft was 2 inches too long. That will make it tough to put together!!!
Higgy

[Dave Howard]

The manual calls for the cockpit rear aluminum panel to be installed and to install floors and interior panels. It also calls for the trunk front panel to be placed on top of the rear cockpit panel 90 degree lip. I'm planning to put it under the lip.

Therefore, I've elected to hold off with cockpit panels until system are completed in the rear of the car. Its easier to access down into the car then it is to access up into the car from the floor. The brake lines have been run and secured. The brake system hasn't been filled and bled yet as I am waiting for a different set of master cylinder reservoirs. I find the FFR supplied reservoirs and mounting brackets are too big and bulky. I want 3. One each for the front and rear brakes and one for the clutch. Mounting locations are limited and access is almost impossible once the body is on. Therefore, I purchased a triple reservoir unit from Scotts Hotrods. The reservoirs volume is less than the FFR units but comparable to the plastic units supplied by Wilwood. I think I'll mount them in front of the left footbox on the outside of the angled tube. I should be able to access the tops once the body is on.

So, I had to finish the fuel system routing and the rear electrical harness routing.

[Dave Howard]

Fuel system was completed at the rear of the car. I did not buy the FFR fuel system so I did not get their charcoal canister. I looked on-line for a suitable canister that would fit it front of the fuel tank but came up empty. so, I decided to make my own. I used a 2" section of PVC pipe. A cap was drilled with many 1/8" holes and glued at one end. The other end had a screw on cap. This cap was drilled and tapped to accept a 90 degree 1/4" NPT to 3/8" barb brass fitting. The assembly was given a few coats of matt black finish then assembled with a small amount of steel wool at each end and the rest of the pipe filled with activated charcoal from the pet supply store. A stainless steel gear clamp was riveted to the frame to secure the canister to the frame. The fuel tank vent line them attached to the barb.



Fuel supply and return line routing was finalized and temporarily secured with zip ties to ensure no interference with brake lines, emergency brake cables and the rear electrical harness.

[Dave Howard]

Next, the rear electrical harness was unpacked and laid out on the chassis. I elected to start securing the harness temporarily with zip ties at the back end of the harness then move forward. The main reason being I don't like how the FFR wiring instructions shows electrical harnesses coming through the firewall directly behind the dash. I have purchased a few aftermarket aluminum pieces from Snakebite Motorworks . The Firewall Transmission Tunnel Cover, and the Lower Transmission Covers. This forms a nice additional cavity under the FFR supplied front transmission cover. I think I might use this room for harness connections and possibly some of the Aluminator (M6007-A50SCD)/Roush supercharge control hardware. So, the rear harness will come up through the Lower Transmission Cover and be hidden from view in the engine bay.


I busted into the main loom of the rear harness to stuff in the wires for the heated seats. The plug end of the heated seat wires was fished through the large rubber grommet on the end of the rear harness loom. The fuel tank sending unit was plugged in and the wire secured to the top of the tank with some industrial grade "duct tape". The fuel pump connection on the harness was cut off. It is not compatible with the Holley in-tank fuel pump. I will use a simple all weather connector before the trunk floor is secured in place.

[Dave Howard]

Once I was happy with the layout of all the piping/cable and wiring systems I permanently secured them in place with stainless steel cable clamps. The 6AN fuel supply and return lines were secured with modified hose separator clamps. The back half of the clamps were drilled out to allow a stainless socket cap screw to pass through. 10-24 rivnuts were installed in the chassis and the clamps held with a drop of blue locktite on the threads

[Dave Howard]

The rear cockpit and trunk front aluminum panels were clamped in place and drilled. The rear cockpit top piece was put in place and drilled. The drop trunk was put in place and the trunk floor placed on top contrary to the manual. All pieces were drilled and secured with clecos. One last thing to do in the transmission tunnel is to install the electric E brake equipment and cabling. I've received notice the parts have finally been shipped. Looking forward to fitting it in place. I also took the opportunity to install more sound deadening material in those hard to reach areas in the footboxes.

[Dave Howard]

The aluminum pieces for the Firewall Transmission Tunnel Cover, and the Lower Transmission Covers arrived from Snakebite Motorworks, They all required a little tweaking to fit properly and the left lower panel required a slot for the rear brakes line to pass through. The edge of the slot was protected with a rubber grommet. The front tunnel cover was scuffed, cleaned, primed and given several coat of matte black to closely match the finish of the anodized panels. The lower panels were riveted in place. The front panel will be secured later. I intend to bring the rear wiring harness up through the lower transmission panel and through a slot at the very front of the FFR supplied front top transmission cover.

[Dave Howard]

I previously spent a little time polishing the Fan shroud from breeze and the radiator from FFR. The fan shroud was mounted to the radiator. There is a huge difference in the quality and workmanship on these pieces.


Next, as per the FFR instructions, I placed two strips of D weather stripping on the bottom side of the FFR supplied stainless steel top bracket and dry fit the radiator in position. Again, the radiator construction quality comes into play. I imagine the radiators were sourced offshore. I wasn't satisfied with the fit. The huge aluminum weld at the bottom of the radiator tanks extended down past the radiator mounting bracket. So in reality, the rad is sitting of the weld. I therefore chose to add D weather stripping to the lower rad support on the frame. I switched out the supplied hardware for stainless steel. I have not yet drilled and secured the rad top and bottom as I want to see how the supercharge heat exchanger will mount in front of the rad.





I will remove the radiator to make the installation of the front wiring harness easier.

[Dave Howard]

I can't install the electrical fuse panel in the footbox yet as there is still some work to complete. I'm waiting for some components to arrive. I did do some fiddling with the supplied harness and fuse panel. Compared to the components supplied with the 2012 build, I noticed the quality and workmanship (especially the fuse panel) had declined some. Regardless, I'm sure it will function just fine. I attempted to fit the fuse panel in a couple of locations. There is room at the far left of the footbox and the fuse box would be protected. But, the wire runs are too long and the harness would need to be modified. I finally decided to mount the panel on the 1" square tube that runs on an angle down under the steering column. I clamped the panel in place and laid out the harness. This allowed me to plan where connection to other harnesses would take place.


I decided to layout and start the installation of the front electrical harness. I chose to run this harness under the outer most 1.5" square tube coming from the left of the drivers footbox. The harness entered the footbox through a 1.25" hole I drilled in the front outer wall. I had already install sound deadening material on this piece which messed up the step drill I used. The footbox outer side panel was put in p[lace with clecos to ensure no issues. I'm happy with the routing, and the connection with the main harness will be to the left, away from the master cylinders.


The "elephant ear) for the driving side was clamped in place to determine interference with the wiring harness run. A step drill was used to made a nice grooved slot at the top of the ear for the harness to pass through. The harness then passed over the top of the coilover mount and in behind the radiator. The plug for the cooling fan was snipped off. The fan is controlled by a separate wire in the Aluminator control pack.

[Dave Howard]

As mentioned earlier, I decided not to use the FFR supplied remote reservoirs for the brakes and clutch. The triple reservoir arrived for Scotts Hotrods. I nice bit of machining and the price was quite reasonable. I looked at various options for the mounting location and decided to stay out of the engine bay. This ruled out the right side of the drivers footbox. The unit fit perfectly at the front of the footbox between the two 1.5" square tubes coming out of the footbox. I made a mounting bracket from 2' wide aluminum. Gave it a polish and secured it to the front top of the footbox along with the remote reservoir. The height will be adequate to supply the master cylinders but low enough to allow access with the body in place. I have an order in with Amazon for 1/8" NPT by 90 degree 1/4" barb fittings, some 1/8" NPT plugs and some EDPM synthetic 1/4" hose to finish off the installation. I want to fill and bleed the brakes before installing any aluminum panels, just in case I encounter a leak.

[Dave Howard]

I'm using 90 degree 1/8" NPT to 1/4" pipe barb fittings from the bottom of the two reservoirs for front and rear brakes. The holes in the back of the reservoirs were capped off. Holes were drilled through the footbox front panel using a step drill and grommets installed. EDPM hose connected the reservoirs to the brake master cylinders.

There is a lot of room between these hoses and the pedal mechanism. Next, the braking system was filled with DOT4 fluid and bled. I started with the rear. I used the pedal pump and bleed method. It took a little while to fill the system and a couple of fittings needed to be snugged up. Same with the front. I'm happy the hydraulic braking system is finished. I wasn't looking forward to the possibility of having to re-do a flair. That would have been a disaster.

[Dave Howard]

With the hydraulic brakes complete, the systems in the rear of the car are done and I thought I would start installing aluminum panels. The rear electrical harness had some extra length that I trimmed back so I held off with the panels. The loom for the fuel tank sending unit and fuel pump was re-secured to the top of the tank. Shrink wrap stab connectors were installed and the fuel pump plugged in.



The electric parking brake system (E-Stopp) arrived. It was larger than I expected and didn't fit in the transmission tunnel. Therefore, I started to look for an alternative mounting location. I considered using aircraft cable and a series of pulleys allowing the E-Stopp to be installed at the back of the trunk area. The cable run was too complicated. I then looked at installing the unit behind the dash on the right side. This seemed to be a doable option with a couple of pulleys to bring a cable down into the upper part of the transmission tunnel and back to the FFR supplied parking brake cables.



I took the E-Stopp apart to see what was involved in changing the cable. I was pleasantly surprised to find the actuator was a simple self contained unit and much smaller.



It would fit where I wanted it to go without the E-Stopp housing. I just needed to figure out how to mount the actuator.

[Dave Howard]

I thought about removing the FFR mount for the FFR parking brake lever, moving it forward and bolting the actuator into it. I was concerned this wouldn't be strong enough. I then considered a U shaped bracket secured to the 1" square tube running left to right across the transmission tunnel. This could work. There is enough room. My mind went to using a 2x2" steel channel. As I thought about where to find a small piece of channel, i got the idea to use the existing E-Stopp housing. It will be strong enough and I can use the original mounting pin. I took a few measurement and snipped off one end of the housing with a hack saw.


Mounting flanges already attached. Holes were drilled for the pin securing the actuator.




I decided to install M6 rivnuts in the 1" square tubing and use stainless steel socket head screws. The breaking strength of the fasteners is several times greater than the pulling power of the actuator. Red Loctite applied to these cap screws. Next, I used a 3/8" stainless steel threaded eye to connect the actuator to the bracket holding the ends of the FFR supplied parking brake cables. The eye was secured to the actuator with a 3/8" smooth bolt. There appears to be ample room in the tunnel for the TKX transmission and there should be no interference with shifter. Looking forward to having the electrical system completed and powered up to test the E-brake

[Dave Howard]

A few more E-Stopp pictures

[Mike.Bray]

That's pretty cool how you did the E-Stopp. I'm not sure I would trust Rivnuts in thin wall tubing to hold the force, I would probably bolt through the tube with a backing plate on the far side. But I tend to overkill everything.

[Dave Howard]

That's pretty cool how you did the E-Stopp. I'm not sure I would trust Rivnuts in thin wall tubing to hold the force, I would probably bolt through the tube with a backing plate on the far side. But I tend to overkill everything.

Thanks. I’m looking forward to powering it up. In response to the rivnut strength concern, a M6 steel rivnut in 2 mm steel has a holding strength between 1,200 and 3,000 pounds. The E-Stopp pull force is 600 pounds. So I think it should be OK. If it pulls itself apart I’ll have to go with plan B.

[Dave Howard]

I'm finally at the point where I feel comfortable about permanently securing aluminum panels to the frame. I've chose to overlay panels a little different than the FFR manual calls for. The front trunk panel in first so the cockpit back rests on top. The cockpit back top had also been fit, so it was riveted in place at the same time.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1762697227

Left and right floors put in next. Easy does it with the silicone. You only need a slight smear.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1762697227

The anodized cockpit inner and outer rear panels when in next. I deviated from the FFR instructions with the inner panels by placing then on the outside of adjacent panel tabs. They fit better and the raw aluminum tabs from the adjacent panels are now hidden.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1762697367

Black rivets used on these panels going from the outside in. This made for a more attractive appearance on the outside of the cockpit. The rivet stubs on the inside of the cockpit were flattened to make the installation of Kilmat and final interior finish easier. To do this, I first punched out the mandrel head from the rivets. Next I used my shop sledge hammer as a dolly. One end was ground and filed smooth then covered with duct tape. A few taps with a hammer on the other end of the rivets and they smoothed out nicely. No damage to the black rivet head.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1762697367

At this point in the build I'm not concerned with the appearance of these panels. They will all be covered with Kilmat and carpet or some other finish I'm considering.

[Dave Howard]

The rear of the trunk was tackled next. Again, deviated from the FFR manual by placing the drop trunk in first. It's a close fit with the raised section of the fuel tank so I installed a protective barrier of self adhesive weather stripping. The FFR manual calls for the use of silicone to secure the inner conners of the drop trunk. After the trunk was in place I secure each corner with a few rivets.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1762697367

The lower trunk floor was also put in place. I opened the holes for the body mount/quick jack bolts to ensure there was no interference in the future. The U-nuts were installed in the frame. (What a nice improvement from earlier models).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1762697367

Trunk sides were also fitted and secured in place. I elected to place the rear of these panels on the inside of the tab on the lower trunk floor. The tab around the fuel tank strap was modified to fit and put in place. It doesn't cover than much. The tank strap hardware was changed to stainless steel.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=221252&d=1762697436
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1762697436