Question: what is your best advice sequencing certain build items

[TXJosh]

Hello all,
I’m building a MK iv roadster w/ a 347 blue print, hydraulic clutch (TOB), mechanical throttle linkage (forte), wilwood electric e-brake. My intention is to lizard skin for heat and sound.

I’ve asked a version of this question before and Edward B had a great response but I am going to reask with just a little more detail.

I am now running my fuel lines (speed flex Holley) down the passenger side. Next is break lines, reservoirs, and then the wiring harness. Question is where in this sequence do you recommend the panels (currently cleco) get riveted in, and beyond that when in the sequence do you recommend lizard skinning?

Also, I am curious if folks have insulated the front side of the firewall (engine bay). I’ve seen it recommended but rarely see photos of it. Or just the drivers side of it?

Last, am curious for those who have installed forte mechanical linkage, how did you dial in the right location on the inside drivers foot box wall and did you drill that hole before or after applying insulation to the interior of the foot box?


Thank you to all for your thoughts and guidance. Having incredible fun with this build.

[TXeverydayDad]

Rivet panels when you’re done with your sequence (ie as late as possible). No need to insulate the engine side, only the cockpit.

I don’t have a mechanical linkage and can’t speak to that.

Where in TX are you?

[cv2065]

Agree with TX dad. Think about where your panels are going and how that will impact the work that you need to do. No need to rivet panels in that are going to make it harder and get in the way. Floor panels, cockpit wall, trunk floor I put in last. F Panels, Passenger side footbox and trunk sides go in pretty quickly.

I didn't insulate the front of the panels in the previous build or this one. Sound insulating on the inside and ensuring that your boxes are airtight is enough and even driving in bare feet I never felt heat really.

For the linkage you'll get a variety of ways to do it. I did it before engine install so I had plenty of room. Although I have the thicker firewall from FFMetals, I still installed the linkage bracket arms into the upper half of the 2" tubing. Measured from the inner wall of the footbox, the first bracket was drilled at 1-5/8" and the second furthest one out drilled at 9-1/2". Mileage will vary here depending on your setup and where you drill your harness holes but should give a good point of reference. The hole that goes into the footbox is at an angle, so make it large enough that the rod spins freely in the grommet.

[egchewy79]

I left the front of the footbox alone. Some will use a reflective film or build a heat shield but likely not necessary if you do the inside of the footbox and seal off the gap between the body and the cockpit well. I attached the pedestals for the mechanical throttle link to the 2x2 frame for extra sturdiness. You’ll need longer bolts. Once the pedestals were in place, I put the rod in and marked the hole location on the aluminum. You’ll need to drill it in the plane of the rod and the hole ends up being a bit oval. I put a rubber grommet and a brass bushing just a bit larger than the rod in the panel. You can do this before you spray the lizard skin. Just leave the top and outside panel of the DS footbox off until the last minute so you can adjust pedal heights, balance bar, etc. you can probably spray those panels separately. Just tape off the mating surfaces so it doesn’t affect the final fit.

[TXJosh]

Rivet panels when you’re done with your sequence (ie as late as possible). No need to insulate the engine side, only the cockpit.

I don’t have a mechanical linkage and can’t speak to that.

Where in TX are you?

Big D!

[M22_COBRA]

Piggy back off the panel discussion... Cleco's (temporary rivets) & the pliers for them are your friend. Panels go on and off, check the fit, get access, go back on.

[egchewy79]

you can also pop in a couple of rivets and drill them out later if you don't want to buy 500 clecos.

[Mike.Bray]

Big D!

I'm in Flower Mound if you ever want to stop by to look at mine and bench race some. I've also got a set of community alignment tool when you get to that stage.

Mike

[JJK]

Similar to Mike, I am just west of DFW airport near Grapevine if you ever want to take a look at mine for anything.
JJ

[Rebostar]

I pre-drilled all the panels very early right after suspension installation. I painted all the panels prior to installation. Grey primer on both sides of all panels then silver on anything facing into the engine compartment, then Raptor (tinted grey) on all exterior facing surfaces. I plummed, the brakes and fuel line and ran all the wire harnesses after I did the final panel install as I had several lines and wire bundles going through the panels. Not routed per FFR. I added stand off heat shields to the engine side of both footboxes. Not the firewall. I left the trunk floor off untill all the wiring and plumming was done. I left the drivers side outer and top foot box panels off till I was ready to install the body.

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[TXJosh]

Thank you to everybody who replied. These are all incredibly helpful and I appreciate it.

[tundra2050]

What's that addition to the rear driver side? Did you fabricate it?

[MaxVmo]

When installing the throttle linkage, make sure you account for the top access cover on the driver foot box. The linkage has a rotating piece that will hit this cover if not placed right.

[Rebostar]

What's that addition to the rear driver side? Did you fabricate it?

Battery box, yes I did fabricate it!

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[Autonut]

Battery box, yes I did fabricate it!

DSC02829.JPGDSC02833.JPGDSC02926.JPGDSC03042.JPGDSC03044.JPGDSC03716.JPGDSC03875.JPG

Nice clean work! Great spot to relocate.