Rick, something else for us to think about. I have mounted my brake reservoirs in the same place your earlier photos show. I stacked my mounting brackets so I could get them closer together, and just raise or lower the reservoir to get the level, but I have a question.
I think I have recently seen a post by Jeff Kleiner mentioning to someone to measure from hinge bracket to reservoirs to assure they are far enough back to clear the hood strut assembly. I am mocking up my hinge assembly and hoping the strut when hood is closed will clear. The hood bracket seem to offset the strut rod toward the inside of the engine bay, so hopefully that will provide clearance. I don't particularly want to move my reservoirs.
Maybe you have already addressed this question.
Ralph
On this topic, check your hing brackets. If the slots do not match the diagram in the build manual (if they run parallel on the top and bottom bracket vs perpendicular as seen in the manual) then you need to contact FFR and they will provide a replacement. Recent anniversary edition cars seem to be OK here but earlier ones had incompatible top hinge plates. It also interferes with the coolant filler spout for a coyote.
On this topic, check your hing brackets. If the slots do not match the diagram in the build manual (if they run parallel on the top and bottom bracket vs perpendicular as seen in the manual) then you need to contact FFR and they will provide a replacement. Recent anniversary edition cars seem to be OK here but earlier ones had incompatible top hinge plates. It also interferes with the coolant filler spout for a coyote.
I checked mine the other day and they seem to be corrected, my top plate has the groove crossing instead of the same direction. I haven’t installed them, but I’m guessing that’s for adjustments in both directions? I added a picture for reference.
My hinges are OK also.
Rick, did you see the build school hinge struts clear the reservoirs OK? Looks like they should be far enough inside the engine bay.
Ralph
My hinges are OK also.
Rick, did you see the build school hinge struts clear the reservoirs OK? Looks like they should be far enough inside the engine bay.
Ralph
I don’t think they installed them. I went back to find pictures at the build school and i didn’t have any.
I checked mine the other day and they seem to be corrected, my top plate has the groove crossing instead of the same direction. I haven’t installed them, but I’m guessing that’s for adjustments in both directions? I added a picture for reference.
Yes,those are the latest revision to the hood hing parts. When assembled they should look like this (after you chuck the wave washers into the trash can )
Yes,those are the latest revision to the hood hing parts. When assembled they should look like this (after you chuck the wave washers into the trash can )
This was a frustrating piece to get together, you build this car and then you feel stupid putting a hinge together. First off the directions really don’t show the correct placement of the two arms that attach to the base. Then the kit includes the wave washers and regular washer same amount. I used the regular washers and chucked the wave washers. Does this look correct? Anyway thanks for the pointers.
I want to install all the sensors while it's outside. I'll be using this https://a.co/d/01mXbcC I assume this is a good spot for the water temperature?
I bought this from Amazon for the oil pressure and temperature sensors, https://a.co/d/76Zztp6 But I noticed these fittings in the block. Can they be used instead?
Engine install was a fail! I’m stuck at this point. I’m not sure if I need a different engine hoist, but the arm is not long enough to get the engine in place. I am about 6 inches short from reaching the mounts. The cross members for the front clip are blocking the hoist from getting the engine in place.
Another suggestion I would have for people using the brake booster is wait until after installing the engine to install it. At least for me it created issues.
I don’t know if I can get a longer arm? Or I may just have to cut and the cross members and weld them back together after. They don’t seem structural? Just need to hold radiator and body? Thoughts?
What size engine hoist is that? Most agree the reach of the 2 ton model is necessary. What I have and have installed engines into multiple builds and has adequate reach. Including the long nose of the Gen 3 Coupe. I haven't tried on my Mk5 yet. It is possible to put the engine in from the side. Some do that with the body on. No reason it wouldn't work with the body off. For goodness sake, don't cut and re-weld chassis tubes. For a bunch of reasons.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread. Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023. Build 6: Mk5 Roadster 30th Anniversary #11,258. Build Thread.
Rick, great-you were due a break after the front try-you even offered the Garage Gods a bag of Organic Bed Soil (your pic 1)! It wasn’t funny until you were successful, I promise. Keep on movin’ forward.
BUDFIVE
Complete kit order 8/28/2023, Delivery 11/28/2023
347 Ford Dyno 10/12/2023
First Start 7/4/2024
Go Cart 8/31/2024
Licensed, Registered 6/17/2025
Rick, do you mind covering your motor install. I’m guessing I’ll run into the same issue with my install on not enough arm to get the motor in from the front. I’m assuming you just came in from the side and turned the motor manually on the chains and guided it it? Just want to cross my t’s before I drop it in. Thanks in advance.
I am glad I will be using a chain hoist from the ceiling. Move the car, not the motor.
I have used the engine hoists in the past and always had fun with something.
I watched several videos and read as mush as I could and proceeded to install my freshly delivered BluePrint 347. Seeing my large investment dangling in the air waiting to come crashing down and taking out other parts with it was nerve-racking. To say I was nervous is an understatement. The first step was to get the engine on the hoist. Here is a picture of my hoist, as it will become the antagonist in this epic. It is sold under different names, but here is a link Target
My first attempt was at the 1 ton setting. The specs for the 347 + TKX listed at ~750 lbs so that's why I chose it. A few of the videos I watched mentioned using the 500 lb setting for ease of installation, but they were able to manage at 1 ton. Most of the videos I watched were for Mark IVs. Because of the layout of my garage my plan was to roll the car to the engine and then use my lift to raise the back of the car if needed.
After trying different tactics it was clear the arm was not going to be long enough. I thought that was going to be the case, but I wanted to try the safest route first. So I dropped the engine on jack stands and reconfigured the hoist. Here is where the bag or organic top soil comes into the picture @BUDFIVE. I was afraid it would tip over and needed some ballast. It weighed 50 lbs and would mould itself to the hoist. Perfect! I could have used just regular soil, but nothing but the best for this build!
Here is a picture of the resting place in case you need to readjust and are looking for a configuration that worked.
AS you know from my previous posts this was a fail as well. The engine would not clear the brake booster until I lifted the back of the car to create a steep angle. I don't think anyone without a lift could do this. I was hoping that if I could get the engine in that I could get it on the mounts. I was able to get it past the brake booster but I could not get anywhere near the mounts. At this point I posted the posts above and asked the experts for help. Here are some pictures of the arm at full extension, 45" measured from chain to jack pivot, and the cross members hitting the hoist. The bag of soil worked flawlessly!
The third try worked thanks to @edwardb!!! It seems so obvious once you see it. But I would have never thought to try from the side. I put jack stands on the frame directly between the wheels so as to not block the hoist and then removed the wheel to get maximum clearance. At first I thought it was not going to work or I would need to remove the brake caliper. But once I moved the hoist towards the firewall, the leg cleared the front cross member. So I repositioned the jack stands to it and then there was plenty of clearance as I moved the hoist closer to the firewall. It was really crazy how little you need to turn the release valve for the engine to plummet! I suggest practicing this where no damage can happen. It did take me several tries to get the engine to drop into the bolt slot and the pin slots. I kept getting one or the other to fall in place. What finally worked for me was getting one in place and then tightening down the bolt so it was loose enough to move, but tight enough to not allow the pin to leave its channel.
So finally it's in and looks great. I was going to paint over the LizardSkin in body color, but it dried a flat black that I really like. So I am going to leave it.
I did make a video. I keep family and friends up to date with videos, so that is the intended audience. I posted it to my youtube channel if you are interested.
I ran out of room for pictures on the last post so a few more comments on the install. The bolts supplied with the mounts are too long for the engine mounts. I was able to use the bolts used to ship the engine instead. Don't throw those out!
The transmission mount interferes with the end of the transmission. It will not rest on it. It probably need to be trimmed about a 1/8". I am waiting to install the driveshaft to see if I can just use spaces instead of trimming. But it is about 1.5" from resting. Experts, should I trim the mount?
And finally, some asked about battery removal once the engine is in. The battery I chose will come out and clear the front assembly and may come out the bottom of the frame, but I doubt it. Getting it out will be major surgery with at least removal of the headers. Buy a battery that will last and keep it on a tender!!!!
Engine install was a fail! I’m stuck at this point. I’m not sure if I need a different engine hoist, but the arm is not long enough to get the engine in place. I am about 6 inches short from reaching the mounts. The cross members for the front clip are blocking the hoist from getting the engine in place.
Another suggestion I would have for people using the brake booster is wait until after installing the engine to install it. At least for me it created issues.
I don’t know if I can get a longer arm? Or I may just have to cut and the cross members and weld them back together after. They don’t seem structural? Just need to hold radiator and body? Thoughts?
Would the brake booster still be an issue if had a longer reaching hoist?
When I pulled my engine from the completed car the HF 2T hoist did not have enough reach so I ran down to the local Metal Supermarket and picked up a piece of heavy wall RHS to make an extension. This worked fine except the hoist was very very light on the back end so like you I added some ballast. I also found moving the car is a lot easier than moving the hoist with the engine & trans hanging on it.
Rick, you sure are a handsome fellow. Nice engine install video.
Now that you have completed the engine install, humor me with a small question. I installed my fuse box today and used the same location and spacer your used. The panel fits nicely. Did your brake/clutch wires reach over to the pedal switches? It is a minor issue to splice in some extensions, but mine are about 6" short.
Just curious. Keep up the great posts.
Ralph
Rick, you sure are a handsome fellow. Nice engine install video.
Now that you have completed the engine install, humor me with a small question. I installed my fuse box today and used the same location and spacer your used. The panel fits nicely. Did your brake/clutch wires reach over to the pedal switches? It is a minor issue to splice in some extensions, but mine are about 6" short.
Just curious. Keep up the great posts.
Ralph
Thanks! No I did not have to extend them. Here is a picture of my setup.
Today I installed the driveshaft and headers. The headers went in without issue. After reading issues about bolts coming loose, I bought Stage 8 locking fasteners. Since they are stainless, should I use anti-seize? I have not tightened them as I’m waiting for a thin-wall socket to arrive.
The driveshaft was an exercise in patience. The manual suggests trying from the passenger side which does not work because the e-brake bracket is in the way. I was able to get it above the diff from the driver side. With lots of wiggling and using a transmission jack to raise and lower as needed, it went in. I was not able to torque the bolts as you need a ball-end socket. This is also on order. It looks like the pinion angle is fine, so I decided to grind the bracket so the transmission would lay flat on the brace.
Rick, thanks. I think I made the mistake of running my main harness out of the fuse box over the steering bracket. Moving it to below the bracket seems to fit but will have to be careful to isolate from the steering shaft.
Ralph
Rick, thanks. I think I made the mistake of running my main harness out of the fuse box over the steering bracket. Moving it to below the bracket seems to fit but will have to be careful to isolate from the steering shaft.
Also, back of your dash is neat. What is the common connector you used to combine the red/black/white gauge wires?
Ralph
Today was wiring day. I was able to install the grounding straps for the battery and block. I verified connectivity with a voltmeter and all is well. I chose an available port on the intake manifold for the water temp and used the port next to oil filter for the oil pressure sensor. I added an oil temperature sensor by using this adapter I got on Amazon. https://a.co/d/hMz0WqL// it installed easily and there is plenty of room.
With this complete I capped off all unused wires, connected all the dash components, crossed my fingers and connected the battery. I’m happy to report no mystery smoke and everything worked! Headlights, turn signals, brake/running lights, license plate and the horns! I am ecstatic. Another big milestone.
The next step was to wire up the Sniper. You need connect power and 3 wires for the basic setup. Fuel Pump +12v(Blue), switched ignition 12v(pink), and coil -(yellow). The yellow is straight forward. After research I determined most folks are splicing the pink to the RF EFI/Coil(orange), and the blue to the RF Fuel Pump(tan). I was hoping to avoid splicing so I studied the diagram and fuse box to see if I could find an alternative. There is an alternate switched source available, RF Electric Choke. It is 10A instead of 15A, but the pink wire is tiny so that should not be an issue. Thoughts? I could not find an alternative for the blue wire. I did not want the EFI controlling the fuel pump, because that would bypass the Inertia Switch. Since it is connecting on the output side, I assume this is an input signal so it knows the pump is on??? Here is a diagram I put together from my research.
Finally installed relays and dressed the wires. I need to hook up the fan control. I think I just need to connect the black/yellow wire to the fan line. Tomorrow is plumbing day and then final checks before first start.
Rick, thanks. I think I made the mistake of running my main harness out of the fuse box over the steering bracket. Moving it to below the bracket seems to fit but will have to be careful to isolate from the steering shaft.
Also, back of your dash is neat. What is the common connector you used to combine the red/black/white gauge wires?
Ralph
Those were in my gauge box. They make it really easy.
The next step was to wire up the Sniper. You need connect power and 3 wires for the basic setup. Fuel Pump +12v(Blue), switched ignition 12v(pink), and coil -(yellow). The yellow is straight forward. After research I determined most folks are splicing the pink to the RF EFI/Coil(orange), and the blue to the RF Fuel Pump(tan). I was hoping to avoid splicing so I studied the diagram and fuse box to see if I could find an alternative. There is an alternate switched source available, RF Electric Choke. It is 10A instead of 15A, but the pink wire is tiny so that should not be an issue. Thoughts? I could not find an alternative for the blue wire. I did not want the EFI controlling the fuel pump, because that would bypass the Inertia Switch. Since it is connecting on the output side, I assume this is an input signal so it knows the pump is on??? Here is a diagram I put together from my research.
Using the Ron Francis +12V choke wire for a sense wire to your EFI computer is fine. I've done the same with Coyote builds. You can have the RF inertia switch still in the circuit. I'm assuming you're using the RF +12V fuel pump wire back to the pump. If you break into the fuel pump relay in the RF fuse panel, you can use the +12V from your Sniper system to energize the relay and the actual power for the pump comes from the RF panel. The FF Coyote installation instructions show how to break into the RF wiring for this to work and I think this would work with your system. Screenshot attached. Not sure I understand what you're doing with the RF Coil/EFI wire. But then I haven't installed a Sniper.
Update: I’ve been doing some more reading on the dark blue wire. It seems it is an output and not an input. I don’t think I should use it??
“Safety Features: The Sniper system has built-in safety features like priming the pump for a few seconds on key-on and then only activating it when an RPM signal is detected, and this functionality should be preserved.”
With RF it’s wired to key on. Not sure when you have key on and no RPM? Weak battery?
Using the Ron Francis +12V choke wire for a sense wire to your EFI computer is fine. I've done the same with Coyote builds. You can have the RF inertia switch still in the circuit. I'm assuming you're using the RF +12V fuel pump wire back to the pump. If you break into the fuel pump relay in the RF fuse panel, you can use the +12V from your Sniper system to energize the relay and the actual power for the pump comes from the RF panel. The FF Coyote installation instructions show how to break into the RF wiring for this to work and I think this would work with your system. Screenshot attached. Not sure I understand what you're doing with the RF Coil/EFI wire. But then I haven't installed a Sniper.
Ah that makes sense. Replace the switched power to the relay with the “safer switched power” of the EFI. Thanks again @edwardb! I definitely need to change my blue wire.
Today was wiring day. I was able to install the grounding straps for the battery and block. I verified connectivity with a voltmeter and all is well. I chose an available port on the intake manifold for the water temp and used the port next to oil filter for the oil pressure sensor. I added an oil temperature sensor by using this adapter I got on Amazon. https://a.co/d/hMz0WqL// it installed easily and there is plenty of room.
With this complete I capped off all unused wires, connected all the dash components, crossed my fingers and connected the battery. I’m happy to report no mystery smoke and everything worked! Headlights, turn signals, brake/running lights, license plate and the horns! I am ecstatic. Another big milestone.
The next step was to wire up the Sniper. You need connect power and 3 wires for the basic setup. Fuel Pump +12v(Blue), switched ignition 12v(pink), and coil -(yellow). The yellow is straight forward. After research I determined most folks are splicing the pink to the RF EFI/Coil(orange), and the blue to the RF Fuel Pump(tan). I was hoping to avoid splicing so I studied the diagram and fuse box to see if I could find an alternative. There is an alternate switched source available, RF Electric Choke. It is 10A instead of 15A, but the pink wire is tiny so that should not be an issue. Thoughts? I could not find an alternative for the blue wire. I did not want the EFI controlling the fuel pump, because that would bypass the Inertia Switch. Since it is connecting on the output side, I assume this is an input signal so it knows the pump is on??? Here is a diagram I put together from my research.
Finally installed relays and dressed the wires. I need to hook up the fan control. I think I just need to connect the black/yellow wire to the fan line. Tomorrow is plumbing day and then final checks before first start.
Rick, I am not certain from your first photo of your water temp sensor location. It would appear to me that port looks like a vacuum source into the intake manifold runner. I have always used the port on the front of the engine near the thermostat housing. But, I could be mistaken, as is often the case.
Ralph
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