Dave and Sheri Build a 30th Anniversary MkV - Coil Covers, Heater Hose

[Dave Howard]

It was 2012 when I built my first FFR MkIV. There were only a handful of Coyote powered FFRs at that time and I shovelled one into the car and have loved it ever since. Had to over come some build issues with the Coyote that are normal now in build procedures and other peoples build threads. Since completing the car Ive alway wanted to build another. In 2012, the Canadian $ was slightly about the US $ so it was a good time to buy. Since then, the $C hasn't been as good. Imagine taking your build cost, multiplying it by 1.38 (exchange rate) and then another 1.13 (tax at border). So I've waited for a "better" time. Can't wait any longer. We've been retired 2 years and need a project. Almost bought a MkIV last summer but caught wind of the new MKV and the possibility of the 30th Anniversary Edition. We waited and for good reasons. Sheri and I are making the trip to FFR to pick up our kit on June 24. Here's the build plan in a nut shell.

- 30 Anniversary MkV
- Aluminator 5.0l. 9.5 to 1 compression.
- Supercharged (Whipple of Roush). Yeah yeah I know. We don't need any more power. Our Gen 1 was dyno'ed at 490 HP with a mild custom tune.
- Tremec TKX
- Mcleod twin disc clutch
- Electric parking brake (eliminate that handle sticking up)
- Will source a heater/defroster once the kit is home. FFR only offer the heater/AC used in the Coupe. We don't need/want AC.

I expect the build to be straight forward other than the Supercharger. We will try to document the build as we go, but don't want to spend a BUNCH of time on the computer.

[Jim1855]

Cool, congrats on the new car.
HP is good!
Jim

[Aleinsteingenius]

We are building a retirement Mark V as well. Just not the 30th Anniversary version. We look forward to following your build. We have chosen to make ours ridiculously overpowered as well except we are using a naturally aspirated Godzilla. I figure giant me sitting at the back of the car will offset the weight on the front lol.

[Dave Howard]

Sheri and I made the trip to Wareham on the 24th to pick up our kit. As always, the FFR team were the best. They helped us secure a trailer at the last minute after the one I had secured weeks ago with U-Haul fell through. We loaded up in the +100F sun and were on our way again by midday. Lots of "thumbs up" from fellow motorist on the interstate. Home by the 25th and immediately started hauling boxes down to the "tinker" room in the basement. Sheri and I were able to remove the body with little effort. It appears to be more flexible that the MkIV I build in 2012. And the fit of panels looks to have improved. Especially the doors. The curved part that mates up with the dash is 100% better. I employed the help of a few neighbours to move the frame onto stands in the garage. A policeman, a building contractor and one of Sheri's colleagues from the fire department. It was a pretty easy move.
I've done an inventory of the items brought back from Wareham. There is a short list of backorder items as expected, and I am still waiting for the "Canadian Compleltion" components to arrive. Heres a few observations and comparisons with our 2012 MkIV so far.
- The body appears to be far superior. Fit has improved. Construction appears to be with glass mat not cut strand. The underside of the body is quite smooth. The raised glue seams of the body panels are minimal.
- The frame of course is totally different. I really haven't had the chance to look at it closely.
- Many mounting bracket are now stainless steel compared to carbon steel in the other build which required powder coating. I will look at knocking down the sharp edges from the laser cutting and have a go at polishing the pieces that are visible.
- The frame is a special bronze color but some of the components (sway bars) are shiny black. I'm contemplating having these redone at a local shop to match the frame color.
- As with my last build, black steel fasteners for non critical components will be swapped with equivalent stainless steel.
- I am going to attempt to nickel plate other fasteners such as the suspension high strength bolts.
- I went with the FFR supplied power steering for this build. The pump is nice and compact.
- The ball and socket connections for the header to side pipe is going to be a game changer when it comes time to level and align the side pipes. NO more wedges. I have headers from Stainless Headers on my 2012. They are a work of art.
- The stitching on the leather seats and door panels looks amazing. We haven't decided on a body color yet, but the stitching has me thinking.
- FFR now supplies many item that I had to by through the aftermarket suppliers for my 2012 build. Self cancelling turn signals, drop trunk, door panels to name a few.

Looking forward to the arrival of the rest of the components. Still need to put in the order for the power train. Once I have that I can determine what route for forced induction. Not planning on much building through the summer months while the weather is nice.

[Reddrig]

Looking forward to following. I have started my anniversary build already, did you receive your wheels? If you haven’t did they give you any information on a time frame? Thanks

[Dave Howard]

Looking forward to following. I have started my anniversary build already, did you receive your wheels? If you haven’t did they give you any information on a time frame? Thanks

No wheels yet. they might be part of the completion kit.

[Dave Howard]

I finished the inventory on the weekend for the parts I have so far. It was pounding down rain so I pulled out the Dremel tool and de-burred the aluminum castings from the rear IRS knuckle. Cleaned up nice. Next, I broke into the POR15 to coat the toe bearings. I store the part used POR15 in a ziplock bag with a container of desiccant from the marina (used when storing boats for the winter). This keeps the paint from going hard between uses. Also had a go with the polishing wheel on my 230V pedestal grinder. WOW. That didn't take much to bring the stainless steel to a gleaming shine. I think this is going to be an anal-retentive build.
Why can't I download pictures?

[rickster991]

Good luck! I’m moving along in mine as well…

[Higgybulin]

Good luck!! I will be building an MK5 for a customer, should be here by the end of July! How long did your Transport Canada letter take to get back to you?
Higgy

[Dave Howard]

The letter from TC took about 10 days. The letter was professional. The email it came in must have been from a car guy. He sounded excited for the build.

Good luck!! I will be building an MK5 for a customer, should be here by the end of July! How long did your Transport Canada letter take to get back to you?
Higgy

[Dave Howard]

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Why can I download pictures from my phone but not the MacBook or iPad.
oh well. The body on the MkV is very flexible and lite. Sheri and I grabbed it by the sides under the doors and easily removed it. It’s hanging from a simple jig made from 2x3s. The garage is tight. I have an outdoor gas fireplace project on the go. The frame is made. The cement board cut and the see through fireplace unit bought. This should all be going outside and installed in 2 weeks. Just in time for delivery of the completion kit. It has most of the suspension components, so I’m inching to get started. Im hoping the hard copy assembly manual comes too. I’ve ordered the heated seat kit. It will be here in a week. The seats are made very well. It looks like I won’t needs to remove hog rings to install the heat pads. ����

[Dave Howard]

the deburred castings mentioned earlier. I'll cut the bit off each after I get the assembly manual.

[Higgybulin]

Keep us posted!!
Higgy

[Dave Howard]

I had to tape the rear hubs I previously painted to protect them while removing the studs. Then, as per the FFR manual, I used a hammer and shop vise. They came out easily. The new studs have a round shoulder and needed a little rework with the file….and a touch up with POR15. As stated earlier, an open can of POR15 can last a long time when placed in a ziplock with desiccant.

[Dave Howard]

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I'm still waiting for the completion kit. Most of the suspension components are part of that shipment. We were able to cut off the bits from the rear knuckles using a hacksaw. My dad has passed away but I could hear him say “let the saw do the cutting” with every stoke. It didn’t take long and the ends cleaned up nicely after a few minutes with a file.
Prior to clear coating the pieces, I used some Lloyds Aluminum Magic to remove the tarnish . The picture shows the cleaned knuckle compared to the original out of the box. This stuff works really well and quickly. Wash up with water, air dry and an acetone wipe before clear coat. he hubs were then assembled and fasteners torqued to speck.
One box in the recycle….many, many more to go.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Photos all say "Invalid attachment specified".

Here are a couple of tutorials:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...small-tutorial

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...tures-in-posts

Jeff

[Dave Howard]

Thanks Jeff. Dave Hodgkins reached out as well. I think I have it now. Let me know if this is any better

Photos all say "Invalid attachment specified".

Here are a couple of tutorials:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...small-tutorial

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...tures-in-posts

Jeff

[Blitzboy54]

Photos look great. Looks like your a full go.

[Dave Howard]

Photos look great. Looks like your a full go.

Thanks. I think we have it figured out. Looking forward to “full go” shortly

[Ducky2009]

Congtras on retirement and enjoy your build.

[Dave Howard]

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We got a small shipment of back ordered parts, including the front 2048 bushings for the centre section. That allowed us to focus on it. The socket head screws provided were a little too big to fit the recessed holes in the adapter plate. I took a little off each bolt using my drill and a file in the vise.
We gave the center section aluminum cover a quick clean with the Aluminum Magic before a clear cote.

[cv2065]

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We got a small shipment of back ordered parts, including the from 2048 bushings for the centre section. That allowed us to focus on it. The sucker head screws provided were a little too big to fit the recessed holes in the adapter plate. I took a little off each bolt using my drill and a file in the vise.
We gave the center section aluminum cover a quick clean with the Aluminum Magic before a clear cote.

Did you have the correct cap screws for the adaptor? I wouldn't think you'd have to sheer anything off the bolt to make it fit flush.

[Dave Howard]

IMG_8115.jpg
I,m not a big fan of the look of zinc chromate hardware. so I decided to give it a good with DYI nickel plating. First, the zinc chromate coating on the provided bolts was removed in a media blaster with fine glass abrasive. It came off easily.

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Next, the raw steel was buffed to a bright shine.

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Each piece was cleaned with acetone then a hot bath in cleaner provided in the Caswell nickel plating kit. Then a 30 minute dunk in the nickel solution at 185F.

IMG_8137.jpgIMG_8141.jpgIMG_8137.jpgIMG_8141.jpgAnd the final product. With all the mounting hardware for the center section coated, it was time to install it. A few ratchet straps and the floor jack and I was able to wrestle it into position while minimizing any damage by covering the frame with old towels. It was a challenge to get the unit in place and line up the bolt holes. My borescope came in handy and one by one, the hardware slid in place and rear fasteners caught thread. I’m happy with how it looks. I’ll continue the plating process for other suspension hardware.
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Another big box gone to recycle.

[Dave Howard]

Yes, got the correct cap screws. I,m assuming they are off shore and the quality control off a little.

Did you have the correct cap screws for the adaptor? I wouldn't think you'd have to sheer anything off the bolt to make it fit flush.

[danmas]

Wow! Things look fabulous. I’m going to enjoy following your build….

[Higgybulin]

Ok, that looks like the Princess Auto sand blaster in your photo....How did you get that thing to work?!! I have tried a few mod's that I have seen on youtube, but still doesnt do a great job.
Higgy

[Dave Howard]

Wow! Things look fabulous. I’m going to enjoy following your build….

Thanks. Looking forward to getting all the parts and buying some 3rd party goodies.

[Dave Howard]

Yes, the media blaster is from PA. I sealed the box when I assembled it. Installed a bright LED light connected to a switch. It also powers a plug for a shop vac. The shop vac draws air out of the cabinet through a cyclone made from two 5 gallon pails. I put a piece of tape across the air inlet port on the back of the cabinet to control the negative pressure in the cabinet. I have a 18 cfm compressor. Air goes through a moisture and oil eliminator. I use a large diameter hose to supply the cabinet. I installed the mod at the bottom of the cabinet to regulate air in with the media supply to the gun. It works well with glass bead but not so good with heavier media.

Ok, that looks like the Princess Auto sand blaster in your photo....How did you get that thing to work?!! I have tried a few mod's that I have seen on youtube, but still doesnt do a great job.
Higgy

[Dave Howard]

The seats for the 30th Anniversary roadster are very nice soft leather with stitching on the seat and back (matching the inner door covers). Today I installed the heating pads for heated seats. It’s a must in our part of the world and used quite often in the 2012 MkIV when out in the morning and evenings. The installation of the heating pads was quite easy. There was no need to remove any hog rings. The seat bottom can be removed from the frame making it easy to handle.

The leather is wrapped around the foam and glued to the underside. I coaxed it free along the back edge of the seat to give access.

The heating pad slid in and backing on the 2-way tape removed to hold the pad in place.

I then used some spray contact adhesive to secure the leather to the foam again.

The leather on the seat back is held in place by long plastic U shaped clips that are sewn to the front and back leather.


Undoing the clip for the back leather exposed the clip for the front leather. The pad was slid between the leather and the foam and held by the 2-way tape. The clips are re-secured and “voila”. Heated seats installed.

[Dave Howard]

Still waiting for the Canadian Completion kit which includes most of the suspension components and brakes. So its been a hard go finding stuff to do on the roadster build. We were able to put together a couple of sub-assemblies.

We went with the FFR supplied power steering rack. It’s nicely powder coated and I cleaned the aluminum section before hitting it with a coat of clear. The original bushings pushed out easy enough and the FFR supplied slid in place. The stainless steel mounting bracket was given a quick polish on the pedestal buffer. We also used the FFR supplied outer tie rod ends. The ones we have on the 2012 build have 53,000 kilometers on them and are still tight. I cleaned then with acetone and gave them a coat of POR15 before installing and adjusting to the spec provided in the manual.




Next, I was able to layout the dash and install all the gauges and most of the switches. The carbon fiber dash comes as a blank. FFR provides a template with gauge, switch and steering column locations for a standard pattern.

I have this arrangement on the 2012 and wanted the 427 competition dash look for the 30 Anniversary builld. We still used the template provided as it helped to locate the steering column and the Amps/fuel/oil pressure gauges. The great folks at FFR informed us to use the 3-4 locating holes for the steering column for the MkV build. The 427 competition layout was found online.

I eyeballed the location of gauges and switches from the photo found on the internet. After several attempts drawing the pattern on packing paper, I settled on a final layout and transferred the gauge and switch locations onto the FFR template using a spring punch, then drilled an 1/8" hole at each.



I now had a template for the carbon dash. Locations of the gauge/switch centers were drilled into the dash. I then used a step drill for the smaller holes and hole saws for the gauges. As per the FFR instructions, the smaller gauge openings had to be enlarged with a drum sander on the drill press. After ensuring everything fit, the dash and glove box front were given an acetone wipe down and shoot with rattle can 2K clear. I wasn't happy with the finish. LOTS of orange peel. My fault. So the parts where given a wet sand with 1,500 an sprayed again. Much better and the carbon fiber really came to life. Switches were placed in authentic loacations rather than the bottom drop down section. This area was used to mount the switches for the heated seats and will be used for the heater/fan controls and the electric parking brake switch. I did not purchase the FFR heater as it included AC which I didn't want.

[Dave Howard]

additional photos

[cv2065]

Dash looks great. I almost used a clear as well but decided against it (own preference). Did you check the alignment of the steering wheel hole? My template offset it against the column, so I didn't use it.

[Dave Howard]

Dash looks great. I almost used a clear as well but decided against it (own preference). Did you check the alignment of the steering wheel hole? My template offset it against the column, so I didn't use it.

I hope the clear holds up and doesn't get marked with use. Time will tell. The beauty of these projects is the diversity and individuality of each project.
I did check the steering column hole alignment. it was dead center on the frame where the column bearing mounts. Im not sure which bezel I'll use around the hole. I'll figure that out once the column is in and the self cancelling turn signal mechanism installed.

[cv2065]

I have a bezel for the steering shaft hole from Mike Everson you can have if you just pay shipping. I didn’t end up using it.

[Dave Howard]

I have a bezel for the steering shaft hole from Mike Everson you can have if you just pay shipping. I didn’t end up using it.

PM sent

[Straversi]

Congrats on the new project. Look forward to following along.
-Steve

[Dave Howard]

While waiting for the completion kit to arrive, I took the time to polish up the radiator and fan shroud from Breeze. I used a fan shroud on the 2012 MkIV build and was glad to see there was a version available for the MkV. Rivet nuts were clamped into the shroud and the FFR supply fan installed using supplied stainless hardware.

[Dave Howard]

The completion kit finally arrived. FFR was waiting for wheels before sending the kit. We convinced them to send the kit without wheels so we could get going with the build. Then, the shipment got held up in customs. The Canadian Government had implemented a new system for paying duties. It took some time for the importer to get signed up. Thanks Ryan for the MANY hours on hold to get that sorted out. Inventory completed and parts started going on the frame. Starting with the FFR supplied power steering rack I had previously prepped.

[Dave Howard]

A little bit of prep for the front suspension before installing parts. I used a grinder with a thin cutting disc to cut most of the way through the ABS sensor rings on the hubs. A little tap with a chisel to split the ring and they came off easily. The hubs were given a coat of POR 15.



Next, the aluminum lower control arms were cleaned up with Aluminum Magic, dried, acetone wiped and given two coats of 2X clear. Came out very nice. The installation was straight forward as per the FFR instructions. The LCA mounting tabs needed a little persuasion to spread them to accept the bosses. I used a piece of ready rod with nuts and washers to move the metal slightly.



The double adjustable Koni coil overs are a very nice touch. They went together easily and mounted without any issues. The stainless spacers for the top and bottom mounts were given a few minutes on the pedestal grinder/polisher. Another anally-retentive touch no one will see.

The 30th Anniversary Edition Wilwood brakes are black. Wilwood make a quality product. Instructions are clear. Rotor hats are held to the rotors with a number of stainless bolts. Using red locktite is more than adequate to hold them. Unlike my last build, I decided to safety wire the hat bolts. No special tools required. I took a few hours and proved to be a little tough on my arthritic hands.



The 30th Anniversary edition also come with sway bars. A little overkill I think. These cars are light and incredibly stiff. Again, the installation was straight forward.

[Dave Howard]

Upper and lower control arms were given the Aluminum Magic treatment and sprayed with 2X clear. Control arms and toe adjustment arms were assembled with a smear of anti-sieze on threads. No persuasion was required to install. I had installed the center section earlier. This part of the build goes quickly. Like a big Mechano set. Everything fit perfect. The CV axles required a little tap with a lead weighted soft hammer to seat them properly. No mods at this point. I lucked out with the frame sitting level on the jack stands. I used a dial angle gauge to roughly set the camber. Haven't tackled the toe in yet. Have to give some thought about that.