Chris' Coupe Build #566 - Rear Camera. EPBs. Hatch floor.

[Blitzboy54]

That's a really sharp arrangement. Nice work

[460.465USMC]

True confession: pretty sure I'm subconsciously avoiding the brake lines. Those were a huge challenge for me on my last build. My excuse is I wanted to check out the new Gen 4 oil pickup design from Moroso. So, what's another week or two, right?

I bought the Moroso oil pan (#20570) and oil pickup (#24580) from Forte. I was anxious to see the fitment, as the F5 instructions don't mention the need for the new oil pickup (last time I checked, anyway). Here's a view of the stock oil pickup (top) compared to the new lower profile Gen 4 Moroso pickup (bottom):




I was on pins and needles as I removed and installed the small flange head bolts that secure the neck of the oil pickup. I shuttered to think of dropping one down into the motor, and trying to fish it out. Thankfully, no dropped bolts! Here's a view of the oil pickup installed.




Then, installed the oil pan using Moroso stud kit (#38554). Not necessary, but didn't want to reuse the Ford factory fasteners, so had to buy some fasteners anyway. The Moroso oil pan provides about three additional inches of clearance over the Ford OEM pan (as measured by yours truly).




From there I tackled the alternator and KRC power steering pump and pulley. The alternator install was straight forward. The KRC kit was something I bought with my kit from F5, before I knew Ford stopped Gen 3 Coyote production. Good news, however; the KRC pump fits the Gen 4, but with one exception. The upper boss on the block sticks out further, so the KRC provided spacer was too long--see bottom spacer in picture below. The gap between the boss and the KRC bracket on Gen 4 is 16.1 mm, but the KRC spacer is 27.9 mm (1.1 inch). Thankfully, adjusting for the smaller gap was solved without issue.




While it was easy to access, I swapped the KRC valve for a reduced flow valve (#4, KRC 25304). This reduces the stock flow of 2.5 GPM to 1.05 GPM. I did this on my Roadster and liked the feel better, as the 2.5 GPM provides too much assist IMHO. The #4 is stamped on the valve and visible in the picture below. (The default valve that comes in the pump is not stamped).




Here's a front view with all the above installed.




I like to have a clock as part of my gauge set, so I ordered one from Speed Hut. Same diameter as the other four smaller gauges. I was pleasantly surprised to find out the hands illuminate, unlike the clock that comes with the Roadster gauge set. Bonus! Top three gauges are powered up with backlight and illuminated needles in the photo below.



I guess this means I'm running out of excuses to start the brake lines.

[PNWTim]

Chris - good work. Glad to know the KRC kit fits as I ordered mine from FF as well. I'm wondering if mine will have a corrected spacer since Gen 3's are somewhat not a thing for now? I am curious, your pictures showing the correct height spacer - is that the spacer cut down or is it something else?

[TwinFins]

Please keep the Gen4 updates coming! Ill be ordering mine plus T56 and all other details early next week. For now Im getting my brake lines done

[460.465USMC]

Chris - good work. Glad to know the KRC kit fits as I ordered mine from FF as well. I'm wondering if mine will have a corrected spacer since Gen 3's are somewhat not a thing for now? I am curious, your pictures showing the correct height spacer - is that the spacer cut down or is it something else?

Thanks, Tim. For whatever reason I decided to use some spacers I had on hand (shown in jaws of micrometer) instead of cutting down the supplied KRC spacer. If KRC hasn't adjusted their spacer for the Gen 4, then you at least know it will still fit with just a little spacer modification.

Please keep the Gen4 updates coming! Ill be ordering mine plus T56 and all other details early next week. For now Im getting my brake lines done

Brake lines, you say? I'll trade you a custom triple reservoir mount for brake lines.

[460.465USMC]

There was Frodo Baggins v. Gollum. David versus Goliath. Daniel-san v. Cobra Kai. And more recently, a new triumphal entry into the Underdog Hall of Fame: Chris versus Coupe brake lines.

Bending and routing the brake lines was a challenge in my first build. I thought this time might be easier: nope. It’s the three dimensional aspect that proves difficult for my below average IQ: how do I bend this tube up, over, and out thisaway all at the same time? Uff-da! Well, nothing to do but move forward one baby-step at a time. “Eat the frog” as the saying goes.

It’s great to be back on the build after 2+ months working on house projects.

Some observations:

• Brake line kit: I picked up an Earl’s Performance brake line kit from Summit. It came with 25’ of coiled Ni-Copp, and enough tube nuts for five lines: Perfect. Even had several feet left over, despite the 14” rear line redo, and the 18” I used to practice making flares.
• Tube cutting: Best cutting method for me was a tubing cutter, HF for <$7. It gave me pretty consistent cuts that were reasonably flush. Then, touch them up with a flat file to make them as square as possible. Don’t rush this step. Time spent here pays off at the next step, flaring.
• Flaring:I bought the forum-recommended Eastwood tool (25304). Not cheap, but it didn’t disappoint. Quality. Thankfully, it was more straightforward to make the flares than I had built-up in my mind. No doubt Ni-Copp helped in that regard. I made at least a dozen practice flares to get the hang of it. Eastwood has a helpful video. Oh, and I used a dab of brake fluid on the end of the tube as a lubrication aid for the flaring tool.
• Templates: I used the kit supplied brake lines to make templates for the Ni-Copp lines (bend, straighten, rebend, straighten again…!). Boy, did I get my money’s worth out of those kit lines. Almost criminal.
• Clamps: Allstar Perf clamps (ALL18320) used in the engine bay. They’re a bit easier on the eyes than the cushion clamps. I used a total of 8 ($26 for two packs of four).
• Lesson learned: I made the last brake line 5/16” short. D’oh! I underestimated how much length is "consumed" during the flaring process: 3/16” per flare, or 3/8" per line. Now I know.

A big Thank You to the forum (as usual) for documenting line routing, and providing great examples to aspire to, especially Edwardb!

Here are the tools I used. Besides the Eastwood flaring tool and HF tubing cutter, the other tool I bought for this project is the Ridgid 3/16” bender (36117). Quality piece.




Front lines

No reason for me to reinvent the wheel on brake line routing, so the front comes out of the MC and forward along the bottom of the 1.5" chassis tube until it exits the FB in the corner.




Then continues along the same 1.5" chassis tube, and down to the 3-way tee (view from underneath). The little panel I made for brake hose management is visible in the upper left--close-up picture below.




Opened a hole in the panel and mounted the hard-to-flex-line adapter to the outside of the 1.5" upright. This is the first line I made, so not sure why I made the loop so large coming out of the tee.




Then across and over to the passenger side. You can see the Allstar clamps I mentioned above.




Rear Lines

Out of the inboard MC, then through a gradual bend to the upper corner of the forwardmost panel on the side of the transmission tunnel. Another tip from Edwardb I copied is to put a couple layers of dual wall heat shrink where the lines exit the panels (e.g. front of DS FB and into the tunnel). Just adds a layer of protection for peace of mind.




Then follows underneath and along the left side of the transmission tunnel.

[460.465USMC]

Then down the rest of the transmission tunnel.




Terminating at the rear tee, just above the differential. The tee sits above the 1" cross tube with ample clearance, locked in place with the nearby cushion clamps. The left rear line visible here is the one I had to redo, as my first attempt was 5/16" short.




I made this oddly shaped little panel piece to fit over the clutch hole to manage the rubber brake hoses as they exit the FB. It has the dual purpose to also fill in a number of gaps between the panel and the chassis tubes in that area. I want those FBs sealed up tighter than…well, you know.




On an unrelated topic, I pulled a couple of the kit supplied 1/8" rivets. They’re more donut shaped than dome shaped, and the sheen is quite dull (moreso than the picture lets on). I don’t remember the kit supplied rivets being this unsightly on my Roadster build. So, I’ll use the SS rivets where visible, e.g. engine bay panels, and limit the kit supplied rivets where they’re not seen.




I’d really prefer to bleed the brakes now, but going to wait until I can permanently install the front FB panel, otherwise I’d have to disconnect the hoses. So, it will be a while…bummer.

[460.465USMC]

As I mentioned previously, after my SS hardline fiasco I raised the white flag and changed to SS braided flex lines. Membership in the prestigious SS hard lines club will have to wait.

I ordered 3/8" stainless braided PFTE fuel lines and connectors from Breeze, one of my favorite F5 vendors. (I went to the previous F5 open house three years ago, and had the chance to meet Mark. Heck of a nice guy. He showed me his Roadster over a cup of coffee, and we talked shop for a couple hours).




Opting for the well documented route down the driver’s side of the trans tunnel, I stacked the lines vertically beneath the rear brake line. They're anchored by cushion clamps and ¼-20 flat head screws. I guess I like knowing I can remove these if needed. I imagine the tunnel will be too crowded to drill out rivets once the T-56 is in place. Not that I want to find out.




I tapped the Trickflow filter bracket for a couple cushion clamps to keep the return line parallel as it transitions out of the trans tunnel, and makes the bend toward the gas tank.




For whatever reason, the braided line connectors went on with a lot less drama compared to my last build. The SS strands are stiff, and like to poke holes in your fingers. Not that I personally tested that theory. Hopefully, the lines will be leak free, because I can’t find my Fragola test kit to verify. Must have misplaced it during the move.

I have a couple 7/16” ID line separator clamps on the way from Summit, but otherwise I’m calling the fuel lines done.

Onward and forward. Thinking of the steering shaft and Coyote accelerator pedal next.

[gbranham]

Looking good! I can send you my Fragola Test kit of you want to use it. PM me, and I'll get it sent out to ya.

Greg

[PNWTim]

Looks good Chris. I went back and forth in my head about using flex line vs. hard line in my coupe. I used all flex in my prior build and really enjoyed working with it but decided to do something a little different with this one. Going to attempt stainless through the tunnel and went with Earls Vaporguard and oetiker clamps by the tank. I too have the Fragola pressure tester for -6, let me know if you want to borrow it.

[460.465USMC]

Looking good! I can send you my Fragola Test kit of you want to use it. PM me, and I'll get it sent out to ya.

Greg

Thanks, Greg! Really appreciate the offer to borrow, but think I'll make another round through the garage first to see where else I may have hidden it from myself.

P.S. looks like a belated congrats are in order. Reading your signature block, I see you fired up that bad boy 427W. That's got to feel really good.

Looks good Chris. I went back and forth in my head about using flex line vs. hard line in my coupe. I used all flex in my prior build and really enjoyed working with it but decided to do something a little different with this one. Going to attempt stainless through the tunnel and went with Earls Vaporguard and oetiker clamps by the tank. I too have the Fragola pressure tester for -6, let me know if you want to borrow it.

Appreciate it, Tim. If I had to do it over, I would have either kept the Eastwood line straightener (ditched the DIY straightener), or ordered straight sticks of tube as I've seen others do. I look forward to following along as you enter the SS hard line club.

[burchfieldb]

Looking good! I feel your pain on the hard lines. That was a long battle for me. Bought and tried lots of different flaring tools before giving in and going to sleeves and tube nuts.

[460.465USMC]

Looking good! I feel your pain on the hard lines. That was a long battle for me. Bought and tried lots of different flaring tools before giving in and going to sleeves and tube nuts.

Thanks, Brent! That sounds like a great alternative as well. I bet it looks clean.

[burchfieldb]

Thanks, Brent! That sounds like a great alternative as well. I bet it looks clean.

It is super easy to do since you only have to make one flare after sliding the tube nut and sleeve on.

[PNWTim]

Looking good! I feel your pain on the hard lines. That was a long battle for me. Bought and tried lots of different flaring tools before giving in and going to sleeves and tube nuts.

Sleeves and tube nuts with 37 degree AN flares is the only way to go with fuel lines. There are also tube nut sleeves that don't even require a flare. They work great:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-2200075b

They both rely on either a flared face or bushing but they certainly simplify the hardline to AN dilemma.

[460.465USMC]

I'm working on the Coyote DBW pedal, and trying to solve the clearance issues. I have the pedal in the F5 Coyote factory holes in the pedal mount. I can make this work if I shave off a bit more of the pedal housing (top left next to the steering shaft). However, if I remove the spacers between the steering pillow block and the mount, I gain useful clearance between the steering shaft and the DBW connector, and at the top of the pedal housing. Anybody know the purpose of these spacers? I rotated the steering wheel lock to lock. No issues. It does increase the steering shaft angle to the first u-joint--is that an issue?

Second question: any reason the 5/16" screws can't be fed top down, instead of bottom up like manual shows? Is there something in the way later in the build that would block removal of these screws if they're in the top down orientation?

Picture with spacers removed.

[PNWTim]

I was of the the opinion the spacers dropped the wheel but if they do something else I don't know what it is. I put my bolts in from the top just because I am a believer in gravity. Even if they conflict with something down the road the pillow block drops so it doesn't really matter as far as I can tell.

[460.465USMC]

Agreed on both counts, Tim. If that's all the spacers do, I'm inclined to leave them out. A little extra space between the DBW pedal and steering shaft, especially the connector, is not a bad thing, though I'm pretty sure I can make it work either way.

[460.465USMC]

Update on the pillow block spacers: Dan at F5 confirmed the purpose of the spacers is just for steering wheel position (lowers it about 1/2"). So, I will leave it as is (spacers removed) for now, and make the final determination after I purchase and install my seats.

[460.465USMC]

Moving on to the steering shaft, it was a pretty low key experience. No complaints here. The flange bearing fits nicely on the front side of the FB. And, thankfully, the upper shaft slid into the larger DD middle shaft without protest. Phew! (Last time it was an all-out battle, a very tight fit). I can slide them together by hand. A good thing. Wavy washers will go in later. My understanding is (per forum wisdom) the upper shaft is designed to collapse into the DD middle shaft in case of an accident.

My punishment for hitting the Easy button with the steering shaft? The steering wheel boss was an ornery cuss. It would not slide over the upper shaft. So, I spent about 30 minutes slugging it out. A Scotch-brite pad smoothed it to the point the boss will now slide on by hand.




Coyote DBW
I still find it unnerving to cut up a brand new piece of OEM hardware ($$$$). But this knuckledragger was committed to adapting the Russ Thompson pedal to match the Wilwood pedals. The Coyote OEM pedal will function just fine, but I'm glad to honor Russ with this key piece on my build.

By the time I was done trimming with the portable bandsaw, the bottom of the pedal was pretty much neutered. Ouch!




Here you can see the extent to which the pedal has been trimmed.







Coyote builders discover clearance is at a premium between the DBW assembly and the steering shaft/DBW connector. I notched the upper left corner of the plastic pedal housing for steering shaft clearance. And, with the pillow block spacers removed (7/16”) the DBW connector clears the shaft by > 3/16”. Final determination of the spacers will have to wait until later in the build once the seats are installed. I need to determine if the elevated steering wheel height works for me. Worst case is I may need to shave another 1/32“ to 1/16” off the corner of the housing.

Tight clearances at the red arrows.




I picked up the Russ Thompson pedal from Breeze. It wasn't designed for the Coyote DBW pedal, but I was able to adapt it with some careful trimming. I fastened with 10-32 flathead screws and lock nuts. The backing plate is made from .090 aluminum to help spread the clamping force.




Almost like it was meant to be there.




Up next is preliminary fitment of the HVAC pieces in the right FB. I'd like to get my panels out to the powder coater.

[PNWTim]

Looks good Chris. I didn't even know Russ had a pedal. I just purchased another Wilwood pad from Summit and drilled and tapped it into the plastic. I did cut about 1 1/2" off of the lower arm though. I also had to notch the upper corner of the pedal to completely clear the steering shaft. I am also debating clearancing the brake pedal arm with a small half moon where it passes by the upper pedal bolt. Mine is really close, maybe a 1/16th away.

[460.465USMC]

Thanks, Tim. Yeah, I bought the pedal from Breeze last October. Looks like he still offers it ($34): 70794 Gas Pedal Pad Conversion Kit, Russ Thompson to Wilwood Style.

Agreed, the brake pedal arm comes very close to the corner of the pedal housing/pedal mount. I think I'm going to let mine ride for now, and will address later once the pedal position is set, and the brakes are bled.

[460.465USMC]

I think the last thing I should do before sending off the panels for powder coating is the evaporator and control valve mock-up. Lots of holes (large ones at that) in the panels for fitment.

Following F5's placement recommend, and checking in on a few other builds, I anchored the L-brackets to the chassis tubes with 10-32 SS round heads. (What would I do without an angle drill?). However, I thought I could improve upon how those brackets fasten to the evaporator housing. So, I attached 10-32 weld nuts (McMaster: 98001A125) to the inside of the housing with J-B Weld. (These are multi-use; another helpful forum idea--this one from Edwardb).




View of its placement looking from the cockpit. You can also see the bead of silicone around the gap where the fan attaches. I could see daylight through there! Appreciate the recent reminder from PNWTim on sealing up all of the cracks around the housing--there are many! Easy to miss this in the instructions.




To locate the heater bulkhead holes, I used a piece of scrap 3/8" SS tubing to extend the trajectory of the upper heater fitting to the FB panel. (I knew that tubing would eventually come in handy!). Then I made a slight indent with my center punch, enough to see it on the outside of the panel to locate where to drill. I used 1 11/16” center-to-center hole template out of a cereal box to locate the bottom hole. Instead of a hole saw, I used a step bit to open it up to 7/8". A word of caution: the lower 1 1/8" nut is close to the diagonal chassis member--see below. Locating the bulkhead even slightly more inward and it wouldn't have cleared.




Another word of caution: the instructions don't mention the hole spacing is narrower for the AC bulkhead connections (#10, #6). They are not 1 11/16” apart like the dual #10 heater bulkhead spacing. The #6 hole center is about 1/8" closer. My eye told me they were a little closer together than the other bulkhead fitting…I should have pursued that further. Perhaps that bulkhead connector changed since the instructions were written? Oh, well. It was an easy fix with a deburring bit at the end of my angle drill to elongate the smaller hole (#6). It won’t be visible behind the bulkhead flange, but it was a bit annoying nonetheless. I should have caught it. Here's what it looked like before I "fixed" the #6 hole. Moving on.




View of both bulkheads from the front.




I was curious how the exit ports on the evaporator were positioned at the rear of the PSFB. I don't think I've seen a view. FWIW, here's a view.




I will eventually pick up the Mastercool 71550 crimper, so I can make my own hoses. It will be a low use tool, but I would have to pay someone else to make up the hoses anyway. Plus, if I ever need to replace/repair, I can do it myself.

Whoops! Back when I was in panel fitting mode, I drilled the side access panel for rivets before realizing screws would make it more accessible. Not sure what I’m going to do on that one. Going to let it percolate for a while.

I mounted the control value, Coyote power distribution block (PDB), and the 250A mega fuse on top of the RH FB. I also decided I would mount the PCM horizontally, just forward of the control value. This is a very similar position to where I located it on my MK4 build, so I'm confident all of the harness legs will reach where they need to go. I'll just need to make a basic bracket for it. Other builders have had success with it there as well, so I feel pretty good about that location.

In this arrangement, I'm expecting (hoping) the Specialty wiper control box thingy will snuggle up against the extreme outboard section of the firewall, and also clear behind where I located the PDB (just the PDB bracket is visible in the picture).

[460.465USMC]

To close out the HVAC system fitment for now, the last item I installed was the compressor. It was straight forward, except for the belt. When the F5 instructions say to put the AC belt behind the crank pulley, they mean it. That was the only way the belt would go on. Once I got that in my head, success came pretty quickly. I managed to have one rib of the belt over the edge of the compressor pully, but turning the engine over a revolution or so, I was able to coax it over and down so all grooves were engaged.

Once I had it looking like this, the belt went on pretty well. The F5 instructions say the belt is designed to stretch during this process, then pull back into its original length once in place.




I think the front of the motor is full now. No more pulleys/accessories to add.

[PNWTim]

Chris - nice progress! Interestingly enough, I did not seal up the evaporator case where you did but rather at the front (rear?) around the flanged vent piece. I will need to take a look at sealing up the area you show as well so thanks for sharing.

The hose fittings are definitely a challenge and a bit of a head scratcher. Depending on where you finalize the evaporator can have significant impact on what trajectory the hoses exit and want to run. I need to finalize my location for the PDB and your mount is definitely in the mix. Also looking at just below that location on the inboard footbox but having no previous experience I need to go with what others have done. Will you be mounting your ECM behind the engine or in front of the PS equipment on the deck?

[460.465USMC]

Thanks, Tim. I sealed around the flanged vent piece as well, so hopefully will get as much efficiency from the evaporator unit as possible. The mounting position is finalized, so I'll need to make the hose lengths to match. I've never made AC hoses before, so it will be a learning curve, no doubt.

You got it right: the PCM is going in front of the heater control valve, forward of the PS FB, and will sit horizontally. As I mentioned above, it's very close to where I mounted it on my Coyote Gen 3 Roadster, so I'm pretty confident all of the various harness/legs will reach their destinations. Plus I see MSummers and Edwardb used that location as well. I don't want it tucked behind the motor below the firewall. I know others have put it there, including F5. Just my personal preference. The engine bay will be very busy with the Coyote (some would say unsightly), so I don't have a reason to hide it.

[lewma]

Unfortunately I didn't seal anything. It blows cold air, but not as much as my daily driver.

[460.465USMC]

That seems to be the consensus from what I've read: the AC is a must-have, but dress lightly because it won't have you grabbing for a long sleeve shirt. I don't know if the silicone will make much difference, but figured this is the time to do it.

[460.465USMC]

Time for a new tool. I bought a big box store center punch (General Tools) part way through my MK4 build. The punching action became unreliable before I completed that build. I then bought another big box punch (Husky), and it didn’t last any longer. So, it’s time to try something new. This is the adjustable Starrett punch (18-C). It’s about $15 more. The difference in quality and construction is obvious just holding it in my hand. Wow! Hoping this is the last one I need to buy.




Battery: I planned to use the kit supplied battery tray and mount. However, when I routed my front brake line east/west along the 1.5” chassis tube, I didn’t realize the F5 battery tray mounts to that same chassis tube. There’s not enough real estate on that chassis tube to drill for the mounting screws as well. So, I fell down the money hole (again). I took a page out of Edwardb’s playbook and went with the Odyssey PC-925 (ODS-AGM28). It's a sealed, absorbed glass matt battery. Mine is the model L (for positive on Left post). I didn’t set out to get the L model, but I think it will work just fine. Oh, and it didn’t come with standard battery posts, so what’s another $30 to get the posts, right? Obviously, there are benefits. Besides the advertised longevity it occupies a much smaller footprint. And, it’s a few pounds lighter. I copied Edwardb again on the battery mount, going with the Artec OY9251 model. Made from 10 ga steel. A quality mount indeed. It will be powder coated.




The significantly smaller footprint allows for mounting forward of the 1.5" chassis tube where my front brake line runs.




New countersink holes required. I'm happy to report these went much better than the NRG holes below. Phew!




A view of final fitment. Mount is now out for powder coating.




NRG quick release: Since my panels are out for powder coating, I tackled the NRG quick release (SRK-400BK). Seems like a good idea given all the comments I’ve read about the ingress/egress challenge with the Coupe. Plus, it’s [supposed to be] a fun side excursion.

The NRG quick release mod with the Russ Thompson turn signal has been thoroughly documented. I pointed to the write-ups I found especially helpful last time. This time around was similar, but actually easier.

Easier? Yah, it should be, but it wasn't. However, it’s done. It’s functional. It’s funny: looking back at my comment after doing this on my MK4 build (2.5 years ago) I said, Precision is clearly in the "Needs Improvement" section of my shop report card. Boy, does that statement still ring true today!

Drilling the holes for the steering wheel side of the adapter should have been pretty straight forward. I mean, it’s my second time doing it, right! Let’s just say the clock in my garage is eternally stuck at O’Amateur hour. I managed to skew most of the holes in the steering wheel, so they didn’t align with the NRG ring. Ugh! I had to oblong most of them with a deburring bit on my Dremel. Which of course made it almost impossible to drill the countersink holes concentrically. I was alone in my garage, but dang, it was still embarrassing! And frustrating. Sheesh! Thankfully, most all of my incompetent drilling will be covered by the center cap and F5 logo. Licking my wounds and moving on. Rant over.

The NRG is a slick unit. However, it does take some work to adapt it to the hub. It has the outer, finished black ring with the release button. And, two inner halves. Each half must be trimmed down to fit with our hub (bottom left). Here's a view of the hub (pre-drilled from i.e.427), the ring that attaches to the hub (lower right), and my hack-job on the steering wheel. The yellow dots on the hub and NRG ring (lower right) are clocked to match the top center hole on the steering wheel. This clocking provides great spacing between the factory holes.




Backside view of the steering wheel with the NRG half that attaches to the wheel. You'll have to pick up M5-0.8 x 14 mm flathead screws (6 ea), and of course a countersink bit with the same angle to match the screw head angle.

[460.465USMC]

Top down view to show where the Open <--> Close labeling should end up, as well as the push button to release the wheel.




This is the i.e.427 turn signal. I won't be installing it for a while. First impression is I like the positive switch action of the turn signal. It provides a crisp click-in, and auto-cancels. The black stalk will be swapped out for the chrome one below. The stalk has a switch when pulled toward the driver. I'm thinking of using that for the horn, and the side switch for high beams. Not sure yet, and have plenty of time to finalize those plans.



Good news: my panels are back from powder coat, so time for lots of riveting and Thermo-Tec.

[PNWTim]

Nice update, as always. Quick question - did you drill all the way through the frame members and through bolt the battery holder or use nutserts? I have the exact same setup and am thinking I will just through bolt rather than trying to drag some 1/4" or 5/16" nutserts. The holes for those are pretty large but still on the fence. This is why my build goes so quickly because I mull these things over for a week or three.

[460.465USMC]

Hi Tim. I used 10-32 nutserts, as I'm trying to minimize anything below the chassis tubes on the bottom for clearance purposes. I know F5 calls for 1/4" fasteners for their battery tray, so I guess I went a little wimpy on this one.

[JimStone]

I know F5 calls for 1/4" fasteners for their battery tray, so I guess I went a little wimpy on this one.

You'd have to put some serious forces on it to break four 10-32 screws, like brick wall deceleration forces. I think you'd have a lot more to worry about if that happened


Good progress! Enjoying the updates

[460.465USMC]

I'm looking for some advice on what kind of battery charger I can use for the Odyssey AGM battery. I have a Battery Tender charger. It says it's a "smart" charger compared to a trickle charger, and is compatible with AGM. I supposed that should be a good enough recommendation, but the Odyssey battery itself mentions minimum 2.7A charging rate. But my charger only outputs 1.25A. Am I okay to use it? I'd rather not have to buy another charger unless necessary.





Specifications.

[8secDuster]

This is the i.e.427 turn signal. I won't be installing it for a while. First impression is I like the positive switch action of the turn signal. It provides a crisp click-in, and auto-cancels. The black stalk will be swapped out for the chrome one below. The stalk has a switch when pulled toward the driver. I'm thinking of using that for the horn, and the side switch for high beams. Not sure yet, and have plenty of time to finalize those plans.



Hey Chris,
That's how I wired mine. The stalks pull back feature as my horn. And the side pull switch, I painted red and used it as my 4-Way switch.
Screenshot_20250730_124756_Gallery.jpg

[PNWTim]

I guess you learn something new everyday. I would not have thought that a battery manufacturer would require a minimum amperage. I have the same battery as you and was planning on using my NOCO tender which has an AGM setting. I have used it now 5 years on my yellow top with no issues so I am curious how much that requirement actually matters?

[460.465USMC]

Hey Chris,
That's how I wired mine. The stalks pull back feature as my horn. And the side pull switch, I painted red and used it as my 4-Way switch.
Screenshot_20250730_124756_Gallery.jpg

Thanks, Mike. Good to know you have the same unit. I may have questions later on. I'm not sure how convenient it will be to have the high/low beam on the hub. The 4-way option you chose is a good one, because it will be a low use button. You give me food for thought. Thanks!

[460.465USMC]

I guess you learn something new everyday. I would not have thought that a battery manufacturer would require a minimum amperage. I have the same battery as you and was planning on using my NOCO tender which has an AGM setting. I have used it now 5 years on my yellow top with no issues so I am curious how much that requirement actually matters?

I just don't have much experience with AGM, so it's difficult not to take their recommendation at face value. Here's a screenshot of the specs from their website for the ODS-AGM28 (PC-925). I have an inquiry into Odyssey to see what they say.

[460.465USMC]

Update: I was hoping for some insight with Odyssey's response, but instead they sent me a canned response:

"It will not charge the battery properly since the charge current [of my Battery Tender charger] does not meet the minimum requirements."

What does charge properly mean? If the battery is charged and I keep it connected (i.e. over the winter) will it not keep the battery charged (i.e. healthy?).

If anyone has better AGM knowledge or experience, please chime in.

[PNWTim]

I am thinking there is some smoke and mirrors here. Their smallest and least expensive charger is $120. It only charges (at 5 amps), it's not really a smart tender. I find it hard to believe a tender with an AGM setting (not sure what that does either) won't keep the battery in tip top shape. Obviously I am probably second in line of the "don't really know" camp but common sense tells me this is marketing magic.

I can understand they don't want you actually charging the battery at very low amperage but isn't there a difference when you are simply maintaining the optimal voltage? It's a mystery to me.