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Thread: Stripe references before painting

  1. #1
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    Stripe references before painting

    Hello, all. As I work slowly through my bodywork, I am trying to get my thoughts together for laying out the stripes once I am spraying paint. I found a 10-year-old post referencing using a very small hole drilled in various places on the body, but that has been pretty much all I have found. Would any of you that paint, or have painted these cars with stripes and a hood scoop chime in with the methods used to be able to re-find my "centerline" as I spray the body parts? I plan to do the offset that Jeff Kleiner describes for the rear between the trunk latch to license plate mount. How do I mark or refence the rear of the body below the latch, the middle part of the body, the front of the scoop, nose, and oil cooler opening so everything lines back up for masking off the stripes? It is easy now to find my center as the car has sharpie marker points at a handful of places along the body, but those will be gone later.

    Thanks much for any insight,
    Mark

  2. #2
    FFR MKIII builder/owner
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    If I remember correctly when I did mine I did a lot of measurements and marked them down on a pad. The measurements where taken from constant points like windshield strut openings and certain points of openings and panel edges. The car was all together with all the panels fitted. Probably not the way the pros do it but it worked for me and the stripes came out great. Because of the minor non symmetrical issues with the bodies you have to be a little creative.

  3. #3
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    Remember, if it looks right, it is right.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

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  5. #4
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    Ok, thanks guys for the input. I will log measurements and try to hide a few references.

  6. #5
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    I found the following thread super helpful as I work through the bodywork phase of my build. It is well documented with lots of advice from Jeff K. I consider it a must-read if you’re doing your own bodywork. This is especially true if you’re a newb like me.

    Concerning your stripe question, they tackle that subject towards the end of the thread.

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...Work-and-Paint
    Build 1: Type 65 Coupe:
    Album: Coupe Album | Delivered: February 24, 2022 | Legal: April 20, 2024 | Complete: TBD
    Build 2: Mk3 Roadster

    Build Thread: TTimmy’s MK3 Basket Case Build Thread | Album: Mk3 Album | Originally Delivered: 2004 | Acquired by me: August 2024 | Legal: 3/31/25

  7. #6
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Here's my recycled reply from another post on the same topic:

    Body on with the car all mocked up, in particular with the hood and trunk lid installed, adjusted and the gaps set. Put the license plate lamp on and mark it's center where it meets the trunk lid. Measure between the headlights and mark that center (It'll be 17 7/8" ). Put away the fancy lasers and go old school---pull a string all the way between those two points and that's your center line. You can slip the roll bar hoops in and check; they are usually pretty darn close but every once in a while I have to fudge the line just a little to equalize it. The cutouts may not be equidistant from the bars on both sides so you can make note of the distance and then measure from them later for reference but don't use them as your initial guide when determining center. Once the centerline is determined I make reference marks so that I can come back to the same points with the body off for paint; those reference marks are an 1/8" hole on the trunk lid's license plate light pad (gets covered by the lamp), at the front of the on the flange (gets covered by the trunk seal) at the front and rear flanges of the hood opening (get covered either by one of the rubber bumpers or "D" seal weatherstrip. I put one at the very front where the lip of the radiator opening turns under. Once the stripe color is laid down the center---yes I do that first---you lay the hood and trunk lid into their openings and equalize their gaps all the way around then pull the string front to rear, checking to be sure that it is hitting your reference holes. You now have your centerline to begin laying out from. Easy peasy!

    Here's the string on center:



    And the stripe lines established:



    Finally all masked:



    One other thing; use this centerline to place the hood scoop...hopefully you haven't already tried to locate it by putting it in the center of the hood because the center of the hood is NOT on the centerline of the car.


    Hope that helps. It's easier to do it than it is to sit here and type out how to do it!

    Jeff

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  9. #7
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    Thanks much for those last posts, Tim and Jeff. I'll read though the thread link over the weekend and add details to my paint/body documents. Jeff, I have read earlier and will shift the stripe at the back from the license plate mount to the latch. As far as the very lower front of the car, at the transmission cooler opening, is that usually just centered by itself (meaning that it does not use the reference string)? I wouldn't think the eye would see any slight shifting down there to keep the stripes symmetrical if needed. Thanks for all the help. I am currently working the body and getting closer to finishing the gaps on doors and trunk lid. While not body related, I just used a 3D printer to make a center console (for radio, cup holders, etc). It fits great and should look really nice after getting it vinyl covered. It follows the taper of the hump at its base, and tapers inward slightly as it meets the underside of the dash. Fun stuff!

    -Mark

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