MJS Coupe Build

[460.465USMC]

Thanks for the tip on the Coyote pedal placement. Kind of like what you did with the Wilwood pedal pad on that pedal, I'm going to try to adapt the Russ Thompson pedal pad (sourced from Breeze). Do you have any tips or pictures on how you attached the pedal pad?

[MSumners]

The pedal pad I just attached with 4 stainless screws after trimming the lever back a bit more.

[MSumners]

Couldnt remember if I posted this before. Something Ive been using during wiring I found on the humvee sites. Great and actually reasonably cheap shrink sleeve printer made by Dymo, takes the standard labels but you can buy shrink sleeve cartridges. Makes great quick labeled yellow shrink sleeve and now I dont have to label all my wires with yellow tape!
Word of caution. the 1/4 sleeve is really 1/8 as it relates to other shrink sleeve companies standards.

[PNWTim]

Couldnt remember if I posted this before. Something Ive been using during wiring I found on the humvee sites. Great and actually reasonably cheap shrink sleeve printer made by Dymo, takes the standard labels but you can buy shrink sleeve cartridges. Makes great quick labeled yellow shrink sleeve and now I dont have to label all my wires with yellow tape!
Word of caution. the 1/4 sleeve is really 1/8 as it relates to other shrink sleeve companies standards.

So this is funny. I have that exact label printer which I print wire labels on then use clear heatshrink over it. I didn't even know you could buy yellow heat shrink it will print directly to .

[MSumners]

Making some small progress. After some deliberation decided to switch out the AC compressor and the power steering pump to the KRC unit.

Anyone have any tricks to get this belt on. Tried the recommendation in the instructions by wrapping it around the back of the pulley and using the zip tie but there isnt enough room for it to fit back there.

[edwardb]

Anyone have any tricks to get this belt on. Tried the recommendation in the instructions by wrapping it around the back of the pulley and using the zip tie but there isn't enough room for it to fit back there.

Had mine off and on a couple times during my Coupe build. I used the method they show in the instructions and it worked for me. From your picture, you need to have the belt seated on the compressor pulley. Not in front as pictured. The belt twists flat to go behind the crankshaft pulley. Maybe this video helps? https://www.tiktok.com/@flyingwrench...403754?lang=en

[MSumners]

Thanks ! I’ll try that again, I tried for awhile to get the belt flat behind the crankshaft pulley but didn’t seem to have enough room, I’m sure I can negotiate it back there with enough effort

Had mine off and on a couple times during my Coupe build. I used the method they show in the instructions and it worked for me. From your picture, you need to have the belt seated on the compressor pulley. Not in front as pictured. The belt twists flat to go behind the crankshaft pulley. Maybe this video helps? https://www.tiktok.com/@flyingwrench...403754?lang=en

[MSumners]

Was able to negotiate the AC belt on, realized I had to start the belt from the right side then floss it up and around as there just wasnt enough room on the left side of the pulley. Once I did that it was quite straightforward.
Was able to get the belts on but then noticed the KRC pump seemed a bit off center, meaning the angle of the wheel wasnt square to the pulley. Gave me fits for a bit until I took it off and noticed there is a set screw on the KRC mounting plate that wasn't allowing the pump to sit flush, for what its purpose I'm not really sure. Certainly something I'm not currently realizing. With the set screw all the way flush to the face everything sits more square.
For the love of pete if you are installing this KRC system put the belt on before you mount the pump. I guarantee this saves a great deal of hassle. something i wish I realized. The picture above is round 2 of fitting the pump, before I realized it was canted ever so slightly and had it off again and on again a couple times.

[MSumners]

[PNWTim]

I was just looking at your latest post and had a quick suggestion. You may want to consider flipping the bolts over on your steering column bearing so they run in from the top. In the event one or both nuts come off, the bolts will stay in rather than completely fall out. It won't prevent the column from dropping down but it would prevent side to side movement.

[MSumners]

I was just looking at your latest post and had a quick suggestion. You may want to consider flipping the bolts over on your steering column bearing so they run in from the top. In the event one or both nuts come off, the bolts will stay in rather than completely fall out. It won't prevent the column from dropping down but it would prevent side to side movement.

Will do, actually need longer ones too for the spacing, they are just finger tight temporary right now

[MSumners]

[MSumners]

Should this heater fitting “snap” into place and be snug. Pushed it on fairly firmly but still has some in and out movement and didn’t really click in.




Anyone have a measurement on how far the mounting bolt for the washer motor is from the firewall? Trying to avoid interference.

[edwardb]

Should this heater fitting “snap” into place and be snug. Pushed it on fairly firmly but still has some in and out movement and didn’t really click in.

Anyone have a measurement on how far the mounting bolt for the washer motor is from the firewall? Trying to avoid interference.

Yes, that heater connector kind of clicks into place. It moves up and down slightly I guess once locked on. If you're using the connectors from FF, and nothing has changed over the past few years, they supply a knock-off connector that several of us had issues with. Didn't lock on well, leaked, etc. Genuine Gates 28504 Heater Hose Connectors solved for me and others. Can't help with the wiper. I've been using the Specialty Power Windows wipers which are different.

[MSumners]

Thanks again!
Making some progress and got the heater connections on. One wanted to be a bit stubborn but did snap into place with some coercion.

I question about the gates clamps. I took a picture from Paul’s coupe build for example. Do they have to overlap the connection or you just put them on the hose and they shrink down enough to be secure?

[MSumners]

Moved into the ‘just get the go cart done’ stage. Wiring started, cooling system mostly done, AC and heat mostly done.
Had to trim the condenser to get it to fit by chopping the side mounting rail off, still snug but fits.
Coyote is mostly wired but have to add in the chassis harness now. Not too long to go cart likely, about time to order some wheels.

[edwardb]

I question about the gates clamps. I took a picture from Paul’s coupe build for example. Do they have to overlap the connection or you just put them on the hose and they shrink down enough to be secure?

They function just like the metal clamps. Put them in the same position. There's no external sealing, i.e. shrink sleeving or whatever. They are very robust. I had a connection on my truck build that wouldn't seal with traditional clamps no matter what I did. The Gates clamp did the trick. Only obvious downside is the one-time use.

[MSumners]

Somehow missed this at first but found this answer to my fan wiring questions in one of Paul’s posts from a couple years back.

[MSumners]

Still plugging away, getting close to first start.
One thing I have to do is order wheels and that may take a bit. I've been reading the wheel thread Logan started trying to figure out which width and offset 18" wheels I should order to avoid a spacer in the rear and maybe think I have it down but spending 4k on wheels I'd rather be more certain. Anyone has 18" wheels on the coupe that are flush to the wheelwells and no spacer curious what offsets and tires you are running. Looking at forgestar M14's or F14. Would love to do 19's but seems you cant get the car too low with some rubbing, at least from reading so far. Of course notching the frame could still be possible if it had to be.

One of the last pieces is the lower coyote radiator connection. I have the boig tube but really can't figure out how is possibly connects yet. Probably just need to try again. I did look at the pictures on their website but didnt really show it too well.
Otherwise once I get some wheels on and the ignition wired it is basically ready to fill with fluid, roll outside and try to fire up.

Should the AC be charged before first start or it doesnt matter. Obviously I plan on testing it for leaks before buttoning the footbox up.

Otherwise only other thing I'm considering is a toggle switch system for the ignition and starter. Came across the diagram in the ford performance instructions and I love the simplicity and kind of goes with my goal for this build. Otherwise I have the guarddog system so kind of opposite ends of the spectrum I guess.

Some of the wiring I have installed but not final currently. I didn't receive any ford performance instructions or papers with my motor / trans from forte and forgot that maybe I should have had them. The labels on the wiring for the control pack are mostly different that what is shown in the factory five instructions, so I'm wiring everything, making sure everything works as its supposed to before I trim any possibly un-used wiring legs.

If anyone has convenient images of their Gen 3 with coyote lower radiator boig tube routing it may save me some serious hassle.
Thanks again to everyone for all the help.

[burchfieldb]

Looking good!

[PNWTim]

You're making great progress. There are a couple guys running 19's with the correct offsets to not rub or require spacers. One of them has a build thread on here but I can't recall his name/avatar but he is listed in Logan's spreadsheet. I too am planning on running 19's but haven't decided on the wheel which is a pretty big decision (at least to me).

You don't need to charge the A/C for first start. If you haven't done it already you can download the Control Pack instructions from the Ford Performance website.

[burchfieldb]

I had asked Patrick "Snowman" about his. This may be of some help to provide insights.

Screenshot_20240602_180015_YouTube.jpg

[PNWTim]

I had asked Patrick "Snowman" about his. This may be of some help to provide insights.

Screenshot_20240602_180015_YouTube.jpg

Thanks Brent. He is the member I was referring to. I never heard he had any clearance issues but good to know. If I understand what he is saying, could you add an additional 25MM of offset to 11" wheels to achieve the same look without any clearance issues?

[MSumners]

I had asked Patrick "Snowman" about his. This may be of some help to provide insights.

Screenshot_20240602_180015_YouTube.jpg

Thanks! That helps

[MSumners]

This spray version of the popular interior adhesive is available now, or maybe it always was before and I just couldnt find it. About to start some dash work and was looking for another can of the weldwood and came across this and thought I would give it a try. Anyone have experience with the can version?

In other news, Wheels ordered ! 4-6 weeks they say for the custom build F14 forgestars. Probably I'll wait for first start until I can put them on and actually roll the chassis out of the barn, still plenty to keep me busy in the meantime.

As luck would have it, was about to fashion a blank dash piece for the gauges but the newer offering company Snakebite just listed them for sale so jumped on that. Otherwise continuing to work through some wiring.
Deciding if I'm actually going to wire/use a oil temp gauge or not, i think probably irrelevent for 99.9% of my driving.

Still deciding on how I want the ignition wired. I really like the idea of only toggle switches if possible but certainly not trying to make it more complicated. Still looking at the wiring diagrams and the Ford performance diagram on how exactly it would go.

Also have the gates shrink hose clamps on order for the rad hoses. Once those arrive can cinch that system up.

[Kbl7td]

I ordered the gallon and brushed. It’s just easier imo.

[MSumners]

Running out of things before first start. Or at least the short list is getting shorter. Went through the dash harness and organized it a bit. I'm using aftermarket speedhut gauges and added their Zero Dimmer click button dimmer into the gauge feed as instructed so I can dim all the gauges together. It also lets you set daytime and nightime settings. Now just need to test everything and then clean up the wiring. Still a lot of other wiring to clean up after first start and testing as well.

Sure the wires could be shorter but then I couldn't disconnect the dash and put it on my lap.

[MSumners]

Anyone happen to know the paint codes for this motor trend red coupe??

[460.465USMC]

Running out of things before first start. Or at least the short list is getting shorter. Went through the dash harness and organized it a bit. I'm using aftermarket speedhut gauges and added their Zero Dimmer click button dimmer into the gauge feed as instructed so I can dim all the gauges together. It also lets you set daytime and nightime settings. Now just need to test everything and then clean up the wiring. Still a lot of other wiring to clean up after first start and testing as well.

Sure the wires could be shorter but then I couldn't disconnect the dash and put it on my lap.

You're almost there...looking forward to seeing your first start video. Congrats.

Thanks for the tip on the Speed Hut solution for gauge dimming.

[MSumners]

Plugging away on first start prep, gauges are all connected and working on the temp hookups for the switches.

[PNWTim]

You are chugging right along. Just read through the last several posts and had one question and one response to a question you asked.

1. I can't recall why you decided to build another console piece but I am curious if you happened to test fit the original from F5 once you had your shifter plate switched around. Specifically, did it fit?

2. I know Paul answered your question about the Gates Powergrip clamps but I wanted to add one other piece. I like to hang one edge of the clamp over the raw end of the hose so that when it shrinks it covers it up. Makes a nice clean transition. Probably not necessary, just something I found I liked. I attached a picture where you can see this in the upper and lower hoses.

Looking forward to seeing you put the new shoes on and firing it up.

1597973148781.png

[MSumners]

I just wanted a thicker trans tunnel cover. I switched out the one in the roadster to a 0.9 and like how solid it feels so decided to do the same. Next time I’m out I’ll check as I think I still have the original panel still.


Wheels are shipped and en route so hopefully installing and try first start in the next week or so.

You are chugging right along. Just read through the last several posts and had one question and one response to a question you asked.

1. I can't recall why you decided to build another console piece but I am curious if you happened to test fit the original from F5 once you had your shifter plate switched around. Specifically, did it fit?

2. I know Paul answered your question about the Gates Powergrip clamps but I wanted to add one other piece. I like to hang one edge of the clamp over the raw end of the hose so that when it shrinks it covers it up. Makes a nice clean transition. Probably not necessary, just something I found I liked. I attached a picture where you can see this in the upper and lower hoses.

Looking forward to seeing you put the new shoes on and firing it up.

1597973148781.png

[MSumners]

I still have to check on the trans tunnel cover fit as above, completely forgot about it.
Working through last of the list before first start.
I ended up replacing the inline radiator fill cap assembly with one that has about 3’ more height to it.
Got the fluids in , driver seat brackets, seat and belt bolted in.
Wheels arrive Monday so probably later in the week I’ll see if it’ll fire up.
Put the FFR pipes on temporarily for first start. I have the Gasn pipes but realized when I opened them they may have accidentally sent a set for a superformance. Emailed and got a rather quick response, tomorrow I’ll send them pictures to see if the pipes are correct.

[MSumners]

Shes on the ground! Nothing to do but get some fuel and first start / go-kart.
Tested the gauges and everything at least lights up and the zero dimmer works. Was able to program the fuel gauge and the Tach so will verify they are working once it actually starts.
The digital guard dog system, to this point, works exactly as it should. I have it set up to arm with the button once in the car, single push for ACC then with the brake depressed it starts flashing. I verified if engages the starter briefly so at least i know that works. The only gauge that may be off is the water temp, it currently reads at 230 with power on, obviously with the engine off. I'm not sure if that will self correct when the engine is actually running or I'll have to troubleshoot it.
I currently have the factory five pipes on as I wanted to do a some dB comparison from a fixed point on the kirkey seat to the gas'n touring pipes.
The F14's look great and looking forward to checking the fit once the body goes on for the first time. Next post hopefully is a running video and go kart.
Time to review the pre start checklist.

[Kbl7td]

The only thing I didn’t like about the dawg or similar systems is if you do happen to kill the car, the brake always has to be depressed to restart. This was especially annoying during tuning. After that I vowed to only have separate IGN ACC Start.

Also super jealous of how clean it is, my car looks like it’s been through a middle eastern dust storm.

[PNWTim]

Looking really nice. I like the tires, thinking summer only? First start sounds like it's right around the corner.

[JimStone]

Looks great

It looks like you have your radiator tunnel all riveted. Are you not going to use the top brow piece (that separates the tunnel from the engine compartment)?

There was the discussion about reducing heat in the engine bay. I imagine not using that panel would improve airflow. I haven't had my hood on in a year, so I don't know how much of a gap that creates

[MSumners]

I planned to fit the top piece of the radiator tunnel once the hood is in place.

Yep mostly just summer driving , might be able to push the season a bit further than the roadster but really with the heated seats into the upper 40’s isn’t even bad. Below that will be stored.

Looks great

It looks like you have your radiator tunnel all riveted. Are you not going to use the top brow piece (that separates the tunnel from the engine compartment)?

There was the discussion about reducing heat in the engine bay. I imagine not using that panel would improve airflow. I haven't had my hood on in a year, so I don't know how much of a gap that creates

[MSumners]

Hadn’t thought of that I’ve never really been through the tuning process before.

The only thing I didn’t like about the dawg or similar systems is if you do happen to kill the car, the brake always has to be depressed to restart. This was especially annoying during tuning. After that I vowed to only have separate IGN ACC Start.

Also super jealous of how clean it is, my car looks like it’s been through a middle eastern dust storm.

[MSumners]

With the gen 3 coyote , on Accessory should the fuel pump cycle at all? Not hearing anything when testing and verified the green fuel pump wire is spliced in correctly.