Angelina: Build Story of my 4-wheeled Motorcycle

[Jeff Kleiner]

There have been a number of those miswires on that main to dash harness connector. All three of us with Mk5 Beta cars had it and there appears to have been quite a few others that were also produced in the 2024 timeframe.

Here's what mine looked like before I corrected it:



I discovered a miswire in a Ron Francis harness while building a roadster for a customer a few years ago and since then I've made it a practice to always lay the harness out and double check that the wires match on both sides of all the plugs before installing anything.

Jeff

[Infinitybox]

enjoy

[Mike.Bray]

Sounds like RF needs to stop hiring color blind people to assemble their harnesses

[Jeff Kleiner]

Sounds like RF needs to stop hiring color blind people to assemble their harnesses

_______________________________
MEET OUR EMPLOYEE OF THE MONTH

[PMD24]

If you call Ron Francis and send a photo, they will send another front harness and a return label for the old one

[cc2Arider]

I'll have to admit to not checking the wiring for correctness as thoroughly as I checked other things -- Thanks for the background and tips everyone

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

There have been a number of those miswires on that main to dash harness connector. All three of us with Mk5 Beta cars had it and there appears to have been quite a few others that were also produced in the 2024 timeframe.

Here's what mine looked like before I corrected it:



I discovered a miswire in a Ron Francis harness while building a roadster for a customer a few years ago and since then I've made it a practice to always lay the harness out and double check that the wires match on both sides of all the plugs before installing anything.

Jeff

Hi Jeff,

If we trust the color codes are correct, then it looks like both connectors were assembled from the same perspective instead of trying to "mirror" image them. Is that what you observed? (edit): it looks like the picture from Highplainsdakota -->I understand now!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I'm still thinking about where to place my fuel pressure regulator and main power circuit breaker on the firewall. I posted in the Roadster General Discussions, but here's a summary in pictures:

Option1 fuel line and elect pwr routing - opt1.jpg and Option2 fuel line and elect pwr routing - opt2.jpg

I had been thinking of Option1 before I started to wrestle with the decision. Now, I'm leaning towards Option2...

So, to help me "relax" on the decision, I decided to just start making my "lower firewall" panel, since I'll have to mount things to it no matter what decision I make

I had also been thinking about this for a while. I wanted a little "bling" and a polished surface reflects the radiant heat better, so here's my Polished Stainless Steel "lower firewall" panel mocked into place Lower firewall heatshield SS panel.jpg

It has a protective film on it for now. Once again, I took advantage of CAD (Cardboard-Aided Design), and it fits really well. My ultimate plan (even if a bit ambitious) is to continue the polished heat shield panels down the sides of the footbox panels. I'd like to use small button-head fasteners on 1/4" standoffs.

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I'm continuing to put the puzzle together for the wire harness and other vehicle systems at the firewall "area"...

This post is about locating my rear harness and the clutch hydraulic line onto the top of the trans tunnel near the "A" panel.

Here's the space that I had to figure out, looking up from underneath the transmission tunnel top panel trans tunnel bulkhead fittings and grommets2.jpg

And here's a few pictures from the top-side trans tunnel bulkhead fittings and grommets1.jpg trans tunnel bulkhead fittings and grommets3.jpg

And here's why I located them there -- I'll hide them inside my center console trans tunnel bulkhead fittings and grommets4.jpg

Lastly, I decided to locate my fuel pressure regulator in "the usual location". That meant I could finish the mock-up installation of my "lower" firewall panel and I mounted a couple of 150A circuit breakers to it. One is for the main harness power and the other is for an alternator internal short to ground. Here's a picture Lower firewall heatshield SS panel with circuit breakers.jpg

This coming week, I'll be crimping power lugs to 6ga power cables and generally start to tidy up the harness routing and presentation behind the firewall...

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In the last post, I said that I'd be working on wiring, but got sidetracked with outside yard duties and got distracted with a fun mini-project that I've been thinking on...

I had wanted to make some simple additional panels in the engine bay to serve as a heat shield since one of my fellow Cobra buddies showed me what he did on his build a couple of years ago

Here is a cardboard template of the Driver's side initial template for Driver's footbox heatshield.jpg Since the complex planes and angles have already been "set" by FFR, I simply copied it, which meant separating the single cardboard template into two panels.

Here's the mock-up on the car with some 1/4" spacers behind (serving as stand-offs): template for Driver's footbox heatshield1.jpg template for Driver's footbox heatshield2.jpg

If I don't get sidetracked with more outside chores this coming week, I'd like to cut/bend these new panels for a test fit and show you the results

Until then, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I hope you had a reflective Memorial Day weekend

It was nice here and I managed to work in the garage on my Heat shields...

Update since my last posting: I got some sturdier poster/craft board from my local Hobby Lobby to test my panel bending strategy: angles, sequence, etc.

Here's my "production-intent" result on the poster board sturdy template to test bend strategy.jpg It was challenging even though I simply copied the FFR panel layout

Next, here's the result in metal mocked into place with copious tape test fit of Driver's inner heat shield panels.jpg

The front heat shield panel was simpler, so I used "plain" craft paper for its template template for Driver's front heat shield panel.jpg

It took me a while to figure out my fastening strategy...to re-use my existing rivet locations or drill for new ones...choices, choices...

Initially, I just used lots of tape test fit of Driver's heat shield panels1.jpg test fit of Driver's heat shield panels2.jpg

It's fitting pretty well so far. test fit of Driver's heat shield panels3.jpg I chose to locate the rear flange of the inner panel to the firewall heat shield panel and then I located the front panel to the front footbox panel with nut-serts and 1/4" spacers. I'm still working on the edge flange where the two heat shield panels meet...but that'll have to wait for next weekend. My intention is to have a 1/4" air gap all around...

Until then, Happy Building!

Craig C

[danmas]

This looks great and very precise. You have enviable skills. I’m sort of a “get a bigger” hammer kind of guy but I really like looking at work that people with finesse can do…. Well done!

[cc2Arider]

Very Kind words Dan!!

I appreciate it

In all honesty, I'm taking my time...but I do have a goal to get the engine installed and running this Summer

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I thought long enough about where/how to mount my Driver's side heat shield panels to the existing engine bay structures, and in the end, I simply drilled extra carefully measured holes to the Driver's "bulkhead" frame structure. Then I "stitched" the side and front heat shield panels together with screws and low-profile riv-nuts 2 & 1/8" apart. This allowed me to fasten both side panels to the front panel and have room to get a small Allen wrench in there when the headers are installed. There is still finishing work to do, such as deciding on 1/8" SS rivets or small screws to fasten the side panels together. Then I'll need to "final" trim the outer edges during body fitment. Maybe I'll include a small strip of bulb-seal...decisions, decisions

Here's a picture final mock-up of Driver's heat shield panels.jpg

Then feeling pretty "chuffed" about my accomplishment, I was brought back to reality by contemplating whether to keep the Passenger-side "simple" or going the extra effort to address some minor issues I wanted to address. First, I like things as symmetrical as possible, and having lots more room on the Passenger side for heat shields kinda irritated me Then there's the gap around the Passenger side "outrigger" frame tube that needs to sealed off near the outside corner. Lastly, the Passenger side foot box gets its strength from the "pinch" seam at the top 3/4" diagonal frame tube, yet no other support is on the front side. So, I decided to prototype a more complicated front heat shield panel by designing folds for strength, and this would also address my irritation issues above... Here's my initial concept template for Passenger footbox heatshield1.jpg

Then I cut and bent the simple inner side heat shield panel and mocked into place template for Passenger footbox heatshield2.jpg

This coming week, I'm gonna think and plan out my bending strategy (since I don't have a "box" brake), and if I can't make a quality mock-up part, I'll just go back to a "simple" design instead

Until next post, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I decided to "go for it" and design my Passenger-side heat shield the way I initially wanted to. The design calls for fastening the front panel into the "outrigger" tube at the bottom, and then fastening the top front to a simple "L" bracket (to account for the front distance offset).

Here's the start: repurposing the existing rivets for the footbox panels for eventual riv-nuts passenger side inner heat shield with clecos.jpg

Then making a front panel template passenger side front heat shield template.jpg

Then the dilemma: use the fastening locations as the dimensional reference or bend the panels right away for the fitment (as reference). I chose to locate all measurements from the fastener location on the "outrigger" tube because the margin for error was greater there (since I would be drilling into the curved part of the tube) Here's the result with the front panel clecoed into place passenger side front heat shield clecoed.jpg

Feeling pretty good about how I drilled into the tube, then the tapping for fasteners began tapping into passenger side outrigger tube for heat shield.jpg

Next locating the top mounting bracket so that the angle matches the Driver's side, and clecoing into place passenger side top heat shield bracket clecoed.jpg

Next Post continues...

[cc2Arider]

Part2 - The design and mock-up of the Passenger-side heat shields (con't)...

Satisfied with the top mounting bracket location, I installed riv-nuts and fastened into place. Here's a picture confirming the vertical alignment of the front heat shield panel test fit front passenger heat shield for vertical alignment.jpg

Then the front and inner side panels are measured at the edge, trimmed, and test fit passenger side front and side panels aligned on-edge.jpg

Then the next challenge: getting that front panel bent properly. Here's the result passenger side front heat shield panel edges bent.jpg not crisp bends

I was worried about this and thought I provided enough margin for the radiused bends...but not enough. I really want the flanges to be on the inside (not the outside) of the joint.

To compound my irritation, I checked the trimmed scraps and the front heat shield panel is not actually "mirror" finish like the others. I'll be calling McMaster-Carr in the morning...

Anyway, to try to leave on a high-note, here's a front picture with the whole setup in place frontview of full heat shield mock-up.jpg

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I spent most of the weekend finishing the trimming, fitting, and detail work on my engine bay heat shields. I still need to powder-coat my "L" bracket a satin black and maybe perform some final trimming when the body goes on, but I'm ready to move onto other engine bay prep


Here's the results of my efforts final trimming & fitting of Passenger side heat shield1.jpg final trimming & fitting of Driver's side heat shield1.jpg final trimming & fitting of Driver's side heat shield2.jpg final trimming & fitting of Passenger side heat shield2.jpg

One thing that might need more investigation is how to keep them clean I used some low-odor mineral spirits on a shop towel to take off the smudges and silicone sealer residue (from the captive nut-sert installation). Seemed to work out OK...I hope I have as much success when the engine and headers are in there

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Not much to report on this week since I had to clean up the yard from the last storm damage ... and I picked a hot and humid weekend to do it (as some of you know who attended the London Cobra show)

So... since I don't have air-conditioning in the garage (maybe another Winter project), I kept my pace manageable...

I started another small project : stick-on heat shielding for the lower areas of the engine bay. Here's the templates in place engine bay stick-on heat shield templates.jpg then the stick-on heat shields in place engine bay stick-on heat shields.jpg The top edge will be hidden by my polished bolt-on panels

Here's where the stressful work-week kept me from thinking ahead: I ran out of seam tape so... off to another small engine bay project: installing the steering rack fail-safe restraining strap steering rack fail-safe restraint bracket installed.jpg I had been wanting to powder-coat it, but just decided to give it a brushed appearance instead...

With that done, I also removed the previously-installed steering rack travel limiters, since I now have the "Fat tire" F-panels and they're not needed

I double-checked the steering travel afterwards, and no problem!!

With this done, I could next install my Breeze Battery tray. I used some rubberized gasket maker between the frame tubes and the tray and in the tapped screw holes just in case I might get any battery "drippings" in there during normal use Here's a picture final installation of Breeze Battery Tray.jpg

With that installed, I still haven't decided where to route my primary battery cables, so I took the short ground cable from the Breeze kit and mocked-up a ground strap for my alternator. My Alternator was pre-finished gloss black by Forte' as a part of his front-drive system, and the case itself was not grounded thru the paint, so I simply ground some of the paint off and then decided to use a longer length bottom alternator mounting bolt (M8x1.25) to fasten the ground strap on the back side (hidden). Here's what it looked like alternator ground prototype cable.jpg The length is perfect, but since the cable size is a 4ga, I may change it to a 6Ga...we'll see

That's all for this week...until next time...Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Believe it or not amidst the pressures of work lately and the hot/sticky weather here, I managed to get a few things done in the garage: I finished taping the edges of my engine bay stick-on heat shields with seam tape. Then I made a new alternator ground strap in 6Ga with crimped/soldered barrel lugs. Then I focused on the primary battery cable routing...

This part was a little agonizing for me until I had an epiphany to make a cable separator/mounting bracket I also figured out a little of my "OCD"... I like making "intentional" decisions instead of having circumstances make the decisions for me.

Criteria: organized layout, consider potential failures ahead of time, make use of existing materials.

So, I made a battery cable mounting bracket out of simple Al 90deg angle stock. I'd mount it along the inside of the Passenger main 4" frame tube, and this would double as a cable separator. The primary starter cables would also have a straight shot from the battery to the starter (well as short as feasible ).

Here's the initial fitment after drilling and tapping for the screws into the frame battery cable guide bracket1.jpg The ground cable would lie (lay?) on top while the positive cable would be fastened underneath.

With my overall plan in place, I decided to route a chassis ground direct from the battery terminal with a short length of 6Ga to a suitable location on the chassis. I chose the rectangular frame upright for the front suspension. Here's a picture battery cable chassis ground.jpg

I planned to jointly solder both the starter ground cable along with the chassis ground cable to the post lug. I chose a 90deg from McMaster-Carr. Here's a picture of that battery ground cable details.jpg

The place where the cables rested on the front 4" frame tube looked like they could benefit from having proper zip-tie mounts ... so I added some there.battery cable routing details.jpg Note that I chose plastic for the positive and metal for the ground. Not that it is likely, but just in case a flying fan belt crushes the cable insulation, it at least won't short to ground initially. This was my strategy for the full length of the primary battery cables. If you're wondering why I chose to route the ground cable on top and the positive cable nearer to the road surface, I believe I'd be far more likely to accidentally drop something onto the cable with the hood up by accident rather than having road debris kicked up and damage the cable ...

Here's a final mock-up picture battery cables bus bracket and zip tie mock-up.jpg I'll have it powder-coated satin black, like the rest of the chassis and brackets.

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[JMD]

I love the heat shield. I was originally going to do something like that for my build, but once I got to that point I didn't want to spend the time fabricating it, so...I just insulated the footbox in and out and will see how that does. A lot of builders don't ever seem to have a heat problem so I kept it simple.

I didn't see what engine you're planning to run, but if I recall correctly the passenger side header sits kind of close to the footbox. Not as close as the driver side, but you put quite a large gap there between the shield and footbox. I assume you've measured to see how much space you have to work with? (Pardon me if that's already been stated, I didn't read the entire build thread.)

Love the build so far. Planning out and fabricating the electrical system was actually one of the most fun parts of the build for me. I love having wires run precisely and neatly throughout the engine bay.

[danmas]

Damn. The routing of your ground cable makes so much sense. I’m afraid I am going to have to swipe your idea and reroute mine tomorrow. Well done.The damn is tongue in cheek as I wish I had though of that….

[cc2Arider]

Thanks Dan! We'll see in a few weeks (hopefully) if my strategy was sound when I finish the engine bay and drop the engine in. I tried to measure everything on the engine while still on the shipping pallet by taking the engine mounts as reference points.

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Thanks JMD! Uh-oh...I took some pictures of the mocked-up headers last year when I temporarily installed the engine. I hope the perspective from the picture is still good...we'll see soon enough

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I hope everyone had an energizing Independence-Day weekend!

I got some miscellaneous brackets back from the Powder Coater a few days ago and they look great! The formula is satin black followed by a satin clear. This is a good match for the chassis black on my Mk VI

Here's the battery cable and heat shield brackets powder coated battery cable and heat shield brackets.jpg I'll install these after wrangling the engine into place...

Here's the Edelbrock ECU bracket powder coated ECU bracket.jpg This meant I could "final" install the heater box and wiper motor assemblies...

and here's the throttle rod brackets powder coated throttle rod brackets.jpg

Next post: thermal pad installation into the footboxes

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Tedious, but necessary post about my progress installing the thermal padding into the footboxes...this is the Passenger side passenger side footbox thermotec applied.jpg

Per my previous guidance, I used a different stick-on thermal barrier for overhead installations. This stuff is backed by fiberglass weave instead of a thicker poly layer...which is supposed to be lighter weight. Here's the top detail passenger side footbox thermotec top panel detail.jpg

and lastly, here's the little extra piece I installed to help cover-up the large installation hole on the front panel passenger side footbox thermotec front panel detail.jpg

I still plan to add Silicone to the outside panel joints after I finish taping the seams...

Next post: Driver's side footbox ThermoTec installation...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

As promised, here's the Driver's side ThermoTec installation...

I couldn't figure out how to get the footbox floor pad in there without big-time wrinkles...and I ruined my first attempt, so here was my solution to the almost perfect rectangle shape of the template driver's side footbox thermotec pattern.jpg simply make the pieces more manageable Here's a few pictures of the outer piece that fits under the outrigger frame tube driver's side footbox thermotec detail1.jpgdriver's side footbox thermotec detail3.jpg

The key was to think thru how the pieces would want to "walk" when holding in place and peeling off the backing

Then here's the "main" piece installed driver's side footbox thermotec1.jpg driver's side footbox thermotec3.jpg

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[gbranham]

Looking good. I'd suggest a bit of rubber edging on this aluminum, where your positive cable rests against it. Over time, vibration might make that aluminum eat through your cable insulation.

Screenshot 2025-07-07 130133.jpg

[cc2Arider]

Thanks Greg!

I plan to sleeve the whole thing with an additional layer of Silicone-covered fiberglass-impregnated cover. Unfortunately, it is not "red" red...it seems to be an "orange" red...probably developed for EV vehicles

I've got "black" for the negative cable

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Ever since I chose an Edelbrock Pro-Flo4 system (with a Vic Jr height intake manifold), and then subsequently a set of solid lowering engine mounts for top-side hood clearance, I knew that I'd need to trim the Quick-Time flanged steel bell housing on the bottom because it stuck down below the chassis "scrub-line"... and it was a job I was dreading -- I'd either have to demonstrate some skills ("...just git yer cut-off wheel and angle grinder on that...") or start taking things apart...

I chose the latter approach. First, remove the transmission from the Bell Housing, then remove the Bell Housing from the engine block. Here's a picture of the cut I needed to make Flange to cut off of bell housing.jpg

Here's my improvised tool fixture for my table-top band-saw tooling for cutting the bell housing flange.jpg

And after careful cutting, here's the result from the band-saw Bell housing flange cut with band saw.jpg

Then after some quality time with a big-honkin' file, here's the result Bell housing flange after filing1.jpg

Next post: part 2

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

So after filing the cut edge flat with a large file, here's the result Bell housing flange after filing2.jpg

Next, I'd have to cut the Backing Plate...which meant removing the clutch pressure plate, clutch, and ultimately, the flywheel

On the bright side of things, I'd get to have a look at these parts

Here's the disassembled "mess" ready to trim up the Backing Plate (notice the scribed line from the finished Bell Housing as a guide) Bell housing backing plate prepped for cutting.jpg

Rinse and repeat on the Backing Plate as I had done on the Bell Housing. Then scuff the cut edges, paint, and clear coat. Here's the result cut and painted bell housing and backing plate awaiting reassembly.jpg

The flywheel bolts had some threadlocker on them and the holes needed to be cleaned out, too...so I just decided to get some ARP flywheel bolts to replace the ones I just removed They're 7/16-20 x 0.950" and when they get delivered on Tuesday, I'll put the whole thing back together...

Next post: fun making fuel hoses with AN fittings

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I decided to keep banging out the small projects to keep on pace this weekend...I'm sure my neighbors just LUV my tall grass that I've neglected

This mini project is about making the customized fuel hoses with AN fittings. Once you get a "system" figured out, it's pretty easy and relaxing I used straight and 60 deg fittings throughout...

I wanted to design a recirculating system for my Pro-Flo4 instead of the "dead head" system which came stock. I did this for 3 reasons: 1) better opportunity to filter out any debris in the system before it got to the sensitive injectors, 2) heat management of the fuel. This highly debatable, though. I think the type of driving I'll be primarily doing, this is a good option... and 3) I just didn't like the routing of the feed line as came stock.

So...here's the front of the engine showing my new hose which connects both rails fuel rail coupler hose1.jpg fuel rail coupler hose2.jpg I'm happy that I "threaded the needle" with the heater hose and distributor base...

Then, I had to relocate the pressure sensor from the front right rail position, to the rear right rail position. Then I mocked-up some 60 deg fittings to check the "look". I like how it is more symmetrical now fuel rail junctions1.jpg fuel rail junctions2.jpg

Lastly, I wanted to get the engine bay "ready", so here's the hoses at the pressure regulator engine bay fuel hoses1.jpg engine bay fuel hoses2.jpg

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this post, I'm doing odd jobs to get the Engine Bay closer to being ready for the engine install...

First up: Finally adding Silicone Sealant to the bottom edges of the inner footbox panels (along the main frame rails)

Driver's side engine bay panels caulked at frame rails1.jpg and Passenger side engine bay panels caulked at frame rails2.jpg

Next, getting the Bell Housing back onto the engine block...pivot arm looks OK bell housing reinstalled1.jpg and a confirmation that my efforts to trim the bottom edge of the bell housing and backing plate looks OK bell housing reinstalled2.jpg

Lastly, installing the transmission back onto the Bell Housing powertrain back together.jpg and aligning the Forte' clutch slave cylinder rod onto the pivot arm powertrain back together2.jpg

It feels good to have the Powertrain back together and ready to drop in!

Until next post...Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

This post documents what I did to adapt the stock RF harness to the fuel pump circuit on the Edelbrock Pro-Flo4 system. It is generally described in the Build Manual and there are some instructions in the Pro-Flo4 Installation Manual.

But first, I needed to solidly connect the harness ground to a suitable location. I chose the bolt location for the outer mounting bracket that I made for the fuse panel. Here's the picture harness grounded near fuse panel.jpg

Next, the ignition supply for the fuel pump relay coil needs to be snipped or otherwise disconnected from the rest of the ignition supply wiring. The Pro-Flo4 figures out when to energize the fuel pump instead of simply via the ignition switch. There is a long harness provided by the Pro-Flo4 system for this purpose. Even though it is long and seems like the wiring is thick enough, the driver circuits inside the ECM can't handle high-current-draw fuel pumps, so this whole harness simply powers the fuel pump relay coil. You'd simply route it along the 2"x2" firewall frame tube towards the fuse panel. Here's where I added a Weatherpack to the snipped coil wire fuel pump relay coil wire tailoring1.jpg fuel pump relay coil wire tailoring2.jpg

Here's a picture of the snipped coil energizing wire at the back of the fuse panel fuel pump relay coil wire tailoring3.jpg

Next, if you want to continue to use the "dreaded" Inertia Switch, you'll have to isolate the switch wire labelled "ground" from the grounded wires in the RF harness. The circuit instead will be completed by connecting this "ground" wire back to the Pro-Flo4 fuel pump wiring harness (tan wire) fuel pump relay coil wire tailoring4.jpg

This gives you a perspective of the location of the RF ground wire that was dedicated to the Inertia Switch. I simply cut it out and re-taped over the exposed soldered joint fuel pump relay coil wire tailoring5.jpg

Next post: more harness modifications

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this post, I do more work on the RF wiring harness...

First up, I tidied-up the back-side of the fuse panel with some split-loom and internal-use loom tape tidied up the back of the fuse panel.jpg

Then I managed to squeeze a grommet onto both front harnesses. I'm not sure how I did it without tearing the rubber. Those are WIDE connectors This will be used to support the front harness as it passes thru my Driver's side "extension" panel Dash panel extension grommet for front harness.jpg

Then, I isolated the horn relay coil wire like I had done for the fuel pump relay coil wire isolated horn relay coil wire from battery supply.jpg and connected it instead to my remote-activated horn module driver circuit remote horn relay driver wiring detail.jpg

Next, I routed the RF wiring for the Ignition power, Thermo-Switch, and the Tachometer feed across to my Pro-Flo4 setup. Here's the pig-tails provided by the Pro-Flo4 for the Fan Relay coil driver, and Tachometer output. Pro-Flo4 pigtails for tach and fan.jpg The Ignition feed goes to the pink and black wire for the Pro-Flo4 (not shown in the picture). Here's a couple of pictures of the loom nearly finished for the Pro-Flo4 "dash" harness. Dash panel Pro-Flo4 harness1.jpg Dash panel Pro-Flo4 harness2.jpgThe other part goes out to the engine bay for main battery power, Injector, coil, and sensor hookups, and for the O2 sensor.

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[Jeff Kleiner]

Craig,
Question and observation.
Question: Why the comment "dreaded" in regards to the inertia switch?

Observation: That bunch-o-wire you have passing through the area that you refer to as the driver's side firewall extension looks like it is going to make life really difficult when you attempt to install windshield fasteners.

Jeff

[cc2Arider]

Hi Jeff,

Thanks for the feedback! Your guidance is always appreciated

My commentary about the Inertia Switch is only related to the complaints I've read about in this forum previously. I recall mostly the complaints were about how easy it is to "trip" it. I'm guessing that your experience tells me otherwise... Perhaps making sure the switch is properly oriented is helpful...

Since I'm processing thru the ECM, and it controls the pump activation only briefly when the engine speed is zero, I viewed this as an optional measure to insure that a post collision doesn't keep the pump running when it is otherwise directly connected to the ignition source. I'm choosing to keep it in place anyway...


About the limited space on the Driver's side...I completely agree! Thanks for the reminder In my zeal to make a "complete" car, I can lose track of the practicality of the build...I'm hoping that I can figure out how to install that panel after I install the body and windshield post. I've tried to align the connectors so that I can "tuck" the forward side into the top of the footbox, while pulling the rearward side out into the open space when they are disconnected. I'm hoping this will create enough room to work. I'm not sure how much the added bulb seal on the top of the panel will make it a headache for me to align the small screw holes, nor am I sure that the ball-end allen wrenches have enough angle on them to tighten once everything is in the way.

Thanks for posting your observations! I'd like to show you in-person someday soon

Craig C

[Jeff Kleiner]

My commentary about the Inertia Switch is only related to the complaints I've read about in this forum previously. I recall mostly the complaints were about how easy it is to "trip" it. I'm guessing that your experience tells me otherwise... Perhaps making sure the switch is properly oriented is helpful...

Since I'm processing thru the ECM, and it controls the pump activation only briefly when the engine speed is zero, I viewed this as an optional measure to insure that a post collision doesn't keep the pump running when it is otherwise directly connected to the ignition source. I'm choosing to keep it in place anyway...

Craig,
My experience with the inertia switch is that when properly oriented and secured (red button up and fastened to a solid, steel frame member) they do not easily trip. For example, on my old Mk3 I reset it once for first start after testing it's function by giving the chassis a good whack with a dead blow hammer and when I sold the car17 years and 30K miles later it had not been touched again. Haven't had problems with them on any of the cars that I've built that incorporated them either. Not sure where you get the idea that the inertia switch only comes into play "briefly when the engine speed is zero". When wired conventionally the inertia switch is in the circuit and providing ground for the pump relay any time the ignition is on. Maybe you have it set up differently?

Jeff

[cc2Arider]

Hi Jeff,

That's good confirmation about the Inertia switch! I suspect many Builder's can easily trip it when it is not securely mounted. I know I'm able to hit it with the palm of my hand to confirm it is working. It is reassuring to know that once it is mounted properly, there is little concern about its function...

On the other thing, I meant to convey that the signal to activate the fuel pump only activates thru the ECM briefly...no relation to the function of the Inertia Switch when wired outside of the ECM control. I've connected mine in series anyway

Thanks for the feedback!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I just had time for a small project this weekend, but you may find it helpful for your builds...

Instead of fitting the FFR-provided Passenger-side firewall wiring loom plate (P/N: 12273), I decided to try to make my own grommet

Here's the Ron Francis part number raw passenger side firewall grommet.jpg then I marked my intentions on it raw passenger side firewall grommet marked.jpg

Here is the result after drilling the holes raw passenger side firewall grommet punched.jpg I tried to use a step bit at first, then chose a Forstner bit (that I had on-hand) for the larger hole to clean up the edge. I used a punch to clean up the smaller hole edges.

Then this is the result after simply splitting it down the middle with a utility knife raw passenger side firewall grommet sliced.jpg

Then it installed easily (at least without the body mounted ) and here is the result of mock-up raw passenger side firewall grommet mocked in1.jpg raw passenger side firewall grommet mocked in2.jpg

For final installation, I'll apply silicone (or maybe weatherstrip adhesive) to the lengthwise joint...

Finally, here's a view of the newly loomed heater and wiper motor wiring for a tidy look engine bay firewall view of heater and wiper motor wiring.jpg

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

We finally got some nice weather here and I had to split time between fun garage projects and catching up on outside chores , but it was a great Weekend that ended too soon...

First up: making 6Ga cables for my circuit breaker panel electrical power distribution panel.jpg

Next, I chose the ECM power wire harness routing along the frame rails, and then drilled, installed nut-serts, and temporarily mocked into place. I still need to get some more of my favorite zip-tie mounts from McMaster-Carr (SSTM4SP), and add my favorite woven split-tube loom for the final installation ... ECM power harness routing1.jpg ECM power harness routing2.jpg ECM power harness routing3.jpg It was nice to see that the stock Pro-Flo4 harness was the perfect length for my routing

And, I started another mini-project. Here is where I cut my trans tunnel top panel to separate a piece for easy removal (for maintenance and the like) trans tunnel top cut for removable section.jpg

I plan to coordinate the mounting of the front piece with the console that I made, and then the rear piece wedges in the front (under the edge of the console) and bolts to the rear (near the driveshaft u-joints). If I imagined it right, there should be no visible mounting fasteners when I'm done We'll see...

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C