Jim's Gumball2 Build Thread

[Jim Doak]

Over the last week I installed my completed dash as well as a couple of under-dash panels. Each panel has a courtesy light controlled by the light switch; I mounted the calibration buttons for the Speedhut gauges (speedo, fuel gauge and tach) on the left side of the driver's side panel.

[Jim Doak]

Yesterday I mounted and wired the horns and today I finished routing the front harness and attaching it to the frame. I also connected the cooling fan. However, the FFR-supplied fan connector didn't want to hook-up to the Ron Francis harness, so I cut the plug and installed a leftover Weather Pack connector from my first build.

[Jim Doak]

The final major accomplishment over the past week was the installation of the radiator. As you can see in the pics, I've used a couple of Breeze accessories including upper and lower radiator mounts, the T filler for the upper hose and the lower hose/tube combo.

Also got around to adding fluid to the TKX tranny.

[Jim Doak]

Yesterday I completed the installation of the i.e.427 dropped trunk as well as energized and tested the fuel pump. All went well except for a small leak at the connection between the fuel pump hanger outlet and the AN hose fitting. Tightened it down and seems to have cured the problem.

Then moved on to adjusting fuel pressure and set it at 5.5 psi.

Today I completed my electrical testing. Temporarily connected the headlights, parking lights and taillights and all operated correctly. Self-canceling turn signal worked as did the hazard switch.

Lastly, I installed a few labels for the hazard, dimmer and manual fan switches.

[Jim Doak]

Two days ago I finished installing the trunk floor aluminum.

Yesterday I added about 3.5 gallons of water to the radiator/cooling system and filled the power steering reservoir. Then I disconnected power to the fuel pump and the ignition coil wire, bolted on the J pipes and cranked the engine to circulate oil throughout the engine. Then I reconnected power to the fuel pump and coil and tried starting the engine.

Success!!

Engine fired almost immediately and settled into a nice, lopey idle. (Carb idle speed set too low; it doesn't have enough cam to have a really lopey idle.)

Now it's on to installation of the rear cockpit and transmission tunnel cover aluminum and fabrication of an undercar exhaust system.

[TTimmy]

Two days ago I finished installing the trunk floor aluminum.

Yesterday I added about 3.5 gallons of water to the radiator/cooling system and filled the power steering reservoir. Then I disconnected power to the fuel pump and the ignition coil wire, bolted on the J pipes and cranked the engine to circulate oil throughout the engine. Then I reconnected power to the fuel pump and coil and tried starting the engine.

Success!!

Engine fired almost immediately and settled into a nice, lopey idle. (Carb idle speed set too low; it doesn't have enough cam to have a really lopey idle.)

Congrats Man - that’s a major milestone!

Keep up the good work!

[Jim Doak]

So, I go out to the garage this morning to begin work to install the rear cockpit wall. (That turned out to be an all-day job...)

Anyway, I see a small puddle of fluid under the front of the engine. Initially I thought that it might be power steering fluid, but soon figured it wasn't because the liquid had a blue tint to it. In fact, it was the exact same color as the BluePrint break-in oil. Turns out I forgot to tighten the 1/2" plug on the remote oil filter mount.

Not too upset, could have been a lot worse.

[Jim Doak]

The last few weeks have been spent verifying that the steering rack was centered (it wasn't), installing Fatmat butyl sound control, the wiper motor and trunk struts.

When I was working on centering the steering rack, while turning the steering wheel side-to-side, I found that I had a problem with my flexible brake lines. When checking progress, I noticed a puddle of fluid under the driver side front wheel assembly. Evidently, I had too much steering travel and the brake lines near the caliper banjo bolts got pinched against the lower A-arms, breaking the flexible hoses. So, a call to Factory Five to get new flexible hoses and the purchase of a set of steering rack limiter spacers and all is well now.

On my first build, I installed Fatmat sound/vibration control product. It worked really well and helped to make the car feel more solid and rattle-free. So, I installed the same product in my current build. It took multiple sheets of poster board used to make templates, but I finished the installation yesterday and am very happy with the end result.

[Jim Doak]

Last evening I watched Frank's (i.e.427) latest YouTube video which included some pointers on installing trunk lid struts. So, I tackled that job this morning. After that was finished it was on to installing the windshield wiper motor.

To be honest, I've been vacillating whether or not to install windshield wipers, one reason being that I wasn't too keen on drilling a hole in my newly finished dash to install the control switch. But in the end, I decided to proceed with the installation. (I didn't have wipers on my first build and only wish I'd had them a handful of times over 46,000 miles - Rain-X works really well. However, I think they make the car look more "finished/complete".)

Anyway, here's a couple of photos showing the installation of the wiper motor and dash switch. (I tested the install and all seems to be working correctly.)

[Jacob McCrea]

Looks really clean Jim. Carry on!

[PMD24]

Question on drilling the finished dash... My fear is having the drill flutes grab the vinyl and destroy the dash. Can you provide some detail on what you did to ensure that didn't occur? Thanks.

Pat

[gbranham]

Looking good, Jim! GUMBALL and my first build were twins...

ReadyforWoW.jpg

[ggunter]

Use a stepped drill on the dash. I found that you can drill vinyl, and carpet with a step drill and it won't grab and rip like a regular drill bit. By the way where did you get your labels for your switches. I've been looking for something understated like yours.

[Jim Doak]

Pat: To add the wiper switch to my dash, first I covered the location with some painter's tape. Then I got a circle template with the approximate size of the switch diameter and traced the outline of the wiper switch onto the painter's tape. Then I took a deep breath and used an Exacto knife with a new blade to cut through the padded dash material, following the circle trace, cutting all the way to the aluminum. I then removed the cut material, center-punched the location and drilled a 1/8" pilot hole. Lastly, I used a step bit as mentioned above to cut the hole to the needed diameter.

All-in-all, it went really well and only took a few minutes.

ggunter: I purchased the labels from Classic Gent UK through eBay. And like the name indicates, they're from the UK. https://www.ebay.com/itm/394078506304

[Jim Doak]

Yesterday I thought I'd begin the carpet installation, starting with the trunk.

It wasn't too hard, although the dropped-trunk mod made it a little more challenging; however, I finished this afternoon and I'm pretty pleased with the end result.

[gbranham]

Looks great, Jim. I did this same project last weekend. Pretty satisfying.

20250328_161151.jpg

[Jim Doak]

The last couple of weeks have been dedicated to continuing work on my carpet install and beginning the fabrication of my undercar exhaust.

I'm nearly finished with the carpet: I just need to install one small piece that was missing from my kit and supposed to arrive via FedEx today (piece No. 15, the Left Footbox Outside Front Carpet), the two large floor pieces and the under door trim pieces.

I'll install the floor pieces after I locate where my seats will set and the under door pieces towards the end of the build.

(The carpet install has been one of my least favorite parts of the build, especially fitting the hard-to-reach footbox pieces.)

[Jim Doak]

Since I'm not using side pipes, I started fabricating my exhaust system last week.

I'm nearly finished with the driver's side; I just need to grind down the welds, install an O2 bung, and apply some hi-temp paint. I'll fit an extension to the outlet so that the exhaust exits directly in front of the rear tires once I get the body set back onto the chassis.

FYI, I'm using ovalized tubing under the footboxes and low-profile mufflers from Spintech to maximize ground clearance.

This exhaust will be nearly identical to the exhaust on my first build.

[Jim Doak]

Today I pretty much finished fabricating the undercar exhaust. I added an O2 sensor bung on each side in case I ever decide to switch from a carb to fuel injection. (I transitioned from a carb to the first-generation Holley Sniper fuel injection system on my earlier Cobra. I was not impressed; too much RF interference. But to Holley's credit, it sounds like they may have cured the issues with the second generation Sniper.)

Now I've got to add some hangers to the rear of the exhaust and chassis to support the ends, spray-on some matte black hi-temp exhaust paint, and I'll extend and relocate the exhaust tips as needed after I get the body back on the chassis.

[Mike.Bray]

I added an O2 sensor bung on each side in case I ever decide to switch from a carb to fuel injection. (I transitioned from a carb to the first-generation Holley Sniper fuel injection system on my earlier Cobra. I was not impressed; too much RF interference. But to Holley's credit, it sounds like they may have cured the issues with the second generation Sniper.)

As much as I like the Holley EFI stuff, particularly the Terminator ECUs, instead of the Sniper II I would spend a little more and get an Edelbrock ProFlo IV system. It's complete with just about everything you need including the distributor and is by far the easiest to configure and best performing. The ProFlo is sequential port injection whereas the Sniper is throttle body injection. There's really no comparison.

[Grubester]

Very interested in your undercar exhaust! I'm looking at pretty much the same configuration, except I'm going to try pushing it all the way out the rear. But that aside, is the oval-section pipe the same area as a 2.5 inch diameter pipe? I'm using a BP 347 and I think that's the diameter recommended. Are you using a the J-pipe coming off your header? I had figured something similar where various wedge-sections would be cut with multiple weld beads to reshape the curvature and angle to match up to where the oval pipe would begin its run underneath the car.
Could I ask for part numbers and source for the oval section pipe and that particular SpinTech muffler? You also mentioned adding the O2 sensor. Would that be the same that would be used for a air-fuel ratio monitoring pick up?

[Jim Doak]

Grubester, regarding your questions:

(1) Per SpinTech's Web site, the 2-1/2" ovalized tubing I used is equivalent to 2-1/2" round tube. (The tubing is 1-3/4" x 3")

(2) I did not use the FFR-supplied J-pipes.

Here's a pic from my invoice from SpinTech showing part numbers.

And yes; the bungs would be used to fit O2 sensor(s) used to monitor air/fuel ratio.

[Grubester]

Perfect-- thanks!!!
Now that I think about it, I believe you said you used a similar configuration on a previous car. What did that exhaust note sound like with that particular spintech muffler? Pretty satisfying...? Did it have acceptable "throatiness" that we come to expect from some of the Cobras? Probably not as loud as the side exhaust, which would be good, in my view.

[Jim Doak]

My earlier car originally had side pipes. (This was a Mark 1.) Even with a small block, I found it way too loud. (Perhaps FFR's current side pipes are quieter???) Additionally, I had two young daughters at the time and I didn't want then getting burned.

After I got them installed, I thought the SpinTech's sounded great and had a nice, throaty tone, not high-pitched like glass-packs. And they were definitely quieter than the side pipes were.

[Jim Doak]

I've completed the exhaust system, including building hangers for the rear supports. Now I've just got to add some hi-temp paint and mount it on the car.

Not related to my build, but yesterday I drove down to Provo and had lunch with a friend who works at Kirkham Motorsports. (He has a Kirkham with an all-aluminum 526 big block with stack injection.) Needless to say, I saw some very nice Cobras. A righthand drive Bronze Cobra with a 427 Cammer that's going to Australia, a Copper car that's staying in Utah, (the copper car is heavy: my buddy lifted the hood and it is dense.), some "regular" aluminum Cobras and a few Daytonas under construction. If I only had the means....

[Jeff Kleiner]

Nice work on the exhaust Jim!

Jeff

[Mike.Bray]

I've completed the exhaust system, including building hangers for the rear supports. Now I've just got to add some hi-temp paint and mount it on the car.

That looks really nice. The thing that would concern me is keeping the heat out of the floor of the car. When I was looking at Vipers I drove a few Gen 3's that had the exhaust under the car and out the rear. The heat coming up from the floorboards was noticeable, actually surprising considering it was an OEM car. I ended up getting a Gen 4 where they went back to the side exhaust because of the heat issue.

I hope you have better luck than Dodge did.

[Jim Doak]

That looks really nice. The thing that would concern me is keeping the heat out of the floor of the car. When I was looking at Vipers I drove a few Gen 3's that had the exhaust under the car and out the rear. The heat coming up from the floorboards was noticeable, actually surprising considering it was an OEM car. I ended up getting a Gen 4 where they went back to the side exhaust because of the heat issue.

I hope you have better luck than Dodge did.

I built a similar undercar system for my previous car. Heat was not an issue at all.

[OB6]

That undercar system looks great. It was my original plan, but our twin sons really pushed for the side pipes (I guess I can't blame them). Add that to losing the "no roll bars" battle with my wife.

[Blitzboy54]

I can't wait to see it on the car. Love an underside exhaust. If I were to restart my current build I would put it underneath. Looks great.

[Jim Doak]

Today I finished building the hangers and was finally able to test fit the exhaust in its final configuration.

It doesn't seem to hang too low and there's enough flexibility in the hangers (two rubber isolators on each hanger) to allow each side to move without any contact with the chassis.

[Jim Doak]

Now all I've got to do for the exhaust is to extend the outlets to the sides, but I can't do that until I get the body on the chassis to check aesthetics. Then I can truly finish this part of the project - and one of the most challenging and time consuming - after spraying-on some high-temperature paint.

[Jim Doak]

Earlier this week I completed most of the body cutouts. I would have chosen the option to have Factory Five do them, but with F5 it's an all-or-nothing choice and I didn't want side pipe cutouts.

Not too difficult of a job but lots of dust. And I'll make the side vent cutouts when I get the body back onto the chassis. (I didn't want to cut them out with the body sitting on the buck because I want to make sure the body is level with the ground when making the cuts.)

Today I applied two coats of Herculiner undercoating.

Next up: Finally get the body back onto the chassis so I can check fitment, fix the locations of the seats and get them installed and glue-down the two large floor carpet pieces.

Shooting to take it to body and paint in late June.

[Jim Doak]

It's been a couple of months, so time for a build update.

I've finished, painted and installed the exhaust. I've also finished the body cutouts, including the side vents. Also trimmed and sanded the fender openings and now I've got to flip the body over and even-up and trim about 1/4" off the lip that overhangs the dash. After that I can begin fitting the doors, hood and trunk.

I finished the carpet installation, allowing me to install the Breeze seat mounts followed by installation of the seats.

Over last few days I installed some rivnuts so that the fuse panel and the mounting plate for the hazard and headlight switches can be removed to provide access for the driver's side windshield post.

More to follow below...

[Jim Doak]

I received my kit July 26th of last year. So, 1 year and two days later my car made its maiden drive. (After 367 days the car was able move under its own power, backing off the scissor lift onto our driveway earlier today.)

It was only about 30 feet, but that counts, doesn't it???

[danmas]

Congrats. It’s a great feeling isn’t it?

[Jim Doak]

Since my last update a couple of weeks ago, I've set the ride height, performed a rough alignment, adjusted clearance between the throttle, brake and clutch pedals and have made a couple of real go-cart drives around the neighborhood.

Earlier today I go-carted, gave it full throttle for the first time and found out that the Breeze pedal was hanging-up on the carpet. (Not fun having the throttle pedal stick wide open!) So, I moved the pedal pad 1/2" outboard to provide the necessary clearance. (That's what's nice about the Breeze pedal; pretty easy to adjust right or left.)

I also found that I needed to move the brake and clutch pedal pads slightly outboard to provide adequate clearance between the three pedals. Fortunately - at least for me - I'm using an SN95 (1995) Mustang pedal box. That allowed me to place the pedals in my vise and "adjust" them with a little gentle persuasion with a hammer. All is good now.

We live in a pretty small rural community, so I've been able to put 3 miles on the car so far. All seems pretty good, and I'm loving the power steering and brakes.

The first pedal pic is prior to adjusting/moving; the second pic is after adjustment.

[TXeverydayDad]

Wow, that’s a scary thought having the accelerator stick on the carpet as you’re just getting to know the car. Glad it was a simple fix.

[Jim Doak]

Over the last couple of weeks I've fitted and installed the headlights as well as performed a little more adjusting to the brake and clutch pedals. I also bonded some studs to the body to facilitate installation of the side vents. The other small accomplishment was to install a remote brake fluid reservoir for the master cylinder.

[Jim Doak]

The last few months have been spent getting the car ready for paint. At the front, I mounted the body onto the chassis using 5/8" rubber blocks on top of the 3/4" frame tubes to help support the body instead of relying on FFR's turn signal mounting pad brackets. The rubber blocks as well as the Metco rubber grommets also aided in aligning the quick jack holes with the frame, with the gromments/quick jack bolts providing additional support for the body. At the rear I used Jeff Kleiner's coupling bolt mod so I don't need to drop the fuel tank to remove the body.

Got the windshield mounted as well as the roll bar and trim plate rings. I'm currently in the process of getting the doors, hood and trunk installed. I've hung the trunk and the passenger side door. Soon it'll be on to the driver's side door and hood. After that's accomplished I'll be ready to trailer the car to my painter.

While attaching the underside of the body to chassis, in lieu of using self-drilling screws, I installed four 1/4" nutserts on the passenger side. I'll do the same when I move on to hanging the driver's side door.