Matt in MN's Roadster

[mrglaeser]

I then installed the Breeze Kool Mat pieces on the tunnel and cover. I also put an additional layer of sound deadening material on the under side of the cover. Again just in case things kit up in there it should muffle the sound (I didn't get a pick of that bit).







I drilled and tapped holes to keep the cover in place once covered and carpet is installed. Another note for the next photo - I also installed the parking brake handle, ran the cables, and connected them to the handle. I still need to take the wheels off and connect them to the rear brakes.



I'm debating on if I'll have the tunnel cover - covered by the interior shop that did my dash and seats or if I'll attempt to cut some foam for a pad and do it myself.

The final bit of - just keep moving on what you can - tasks I started to put in the carpet. Just 3 pieces so far but they seemed to go pretty well.

[mrglaeser]

Found a pick of the return line hose installed.

[gbranham]

Looking good, Matt! I thought about drilling and tapping the side of the trans tunnel cover, as well, but realized I wouldn't be able to get to the rearward couple of bolts with the seats in, so I think I'm going to cover the horizontal surfaces of the trans tunnel with industrial velcro (down each side front to back, and the 3 diagonal 3/4" square tubes), with the corresponding velcro bits on the underside of the cover. That's after putting Thermo-Tec mat on the underside and padding then carpet/vinyl/suede/leather on the top of the tunnel cover. I think it'll hold. Time will tell, I guess. If it doesn't I can always go back and use screws/bolts, I suppose.

Greg

[gbranham]

Oh, and on a side note, did the two TKX shifter bolts fit the holes in your shifter? My TKX bolts were too big, and I wasn't about to drill out that stainless shifter. My kit also came with a short shifter (dunno why...I didn't order it as an option, but maybe it comes with all complete kits), and it fit. I really like it.

ShortShifter.jpg

[mrglaeser]

Looking good, Matt! I thought about drilling and tapping the side of the trans tunnel cover, as well, but realized I wouldn't be able to get to the rearward couple of bolts with the seats in, so I think I'm going to cover the horizontal surfaces of the trans tunnel with industrial velcro (down each side front to back, and the 3 diagonal 3/4" square tubes), with the corresponding velcro bits on the underside of the cover. That's after putting Thermo-Tec mat on the underside and padding then carpet/vinyl/suede/leather on the top of the tunnel cover. I think it'll hold. Time will tell, I guess. If it doesn't I can always go back and use screws/bolts, I suppose.

Greg

I honestly hadn't thought about it. I'm putting the seats on adjusters so hopefully I can slide them enough for access. I'm honestly hoping to almost never need to open the tunnel anyway.

[mrglaeser]

Oh, and on a side note, did the two TKX shifter bolts fit the holes in your shifter? My TKX bolts were too big, and I wasn't about to drill out that stainless shifter. My kit also came with a short shifter (dunno why...I didn't order it as an option, but maybe it comes with all complete kits), and it fit. I really like it.

ShortShifter.jpg

Yes the bolts were too big for the shift handle. I did have to drill them larger. It took some time to do but I think there is enough metal there that it isn't a big deal in the long run.

[Highplainsdakota]

Also look what the kids got me for Christmas!




Matt, Your roadster is looking great! I'm over here in Bismarck, ND and just took delivery of my MK4 in December. I love your steering wheel in the above pic. Can you give me details on where they found it? I'm doing the quick detach steering wheel hub and it takes a different bolt pattern than the FFR wheel. Since I have power steering I don't need to have as large of diameter, but I want a wood wheel. It really is the connection with the road so I don't want to skimp here. Thanks!

[mrglaeser]

Also look what the kids got me for Christmas!




Matt, Your roadster is looking great! I'm over here in Bismarck, ND and just took delivery of my MK4 in December. I love your steering wheel in the above pic. Can you give me details on where they found it? I'm doing the quick detach steering wheel hub and it takes a different bolt pattern than the FFR wheel. Since I have power steering I don't need to have as large of diameter, but I want a wood wheel. It really is the connection with the road so I don't want to skimp here. Thanks!

Hi Highplainsdakota sorry I didn't see this sooner. I can't find my original links but I'm pretty sure this is the same wheel:
https://vswsteeringwheels.com/products/st3027

Also I can't find the same center anymore, but if I had seen these I would have ordered it instead.
https://vswsteeringwheels.com/produc...72e83f56&_ss=r

I also was hoping having a smaller wheel with the power steering would improve the feel but keep it easy for my wife to drive. Time will tell.

Congrats on getting your kit. It's an exciting time. I've only driven through Bismarck on my home from Montana, but looking at google maps it looks like there could be some good mountain roads to go cruising in.

[mrglaeser]

It's a while since I posted. Not a whole to get into. Mostly just carpet. There was also some rework I might get into later but that slowed me down in January. So the only forward progress is some carpet.

First the tunnel. I'm make a removable cover so I had to cut out a lot of the carpet in the middle.




Here's the transition between the tunnel and back of the cockpit


Then I did the inner footwell walls. Kind of a disaster. The PS fit perfect, the front above the tunnel fit great. But try as I might (installing and removing the piece 3 times) I could not get the DS right. It always has a huge gap at the bottom. The piece must have been cut weird.


I even though oh maybe once the floor is in it will work. So here that mocked up:


I thought about cutting a strip to fill the gap. But figured that would look aweful. So since I had used vinyl in the trunk I used the trunk piece and cut a new inner footbox piece:

[mrglaeser]

The Trunk Carpet is actually just a little bit small. So the corners in the PS got trimmed a little. But you would have to stick your head in there with a flashlight to tell. If someone is doing that I'm not sure I want to be their friend.



First I cut the top to match:


Then I left all the extra fabric on the DS but cut PS mostly the same.


Here is the front and PS. The photo looks dirtier then it is. I'll have to clean everything really well once all the carpet is in.


Here is the much improved DS. Though there is a spot in the middle that isn't sticking so I'll have to peal it back and re-glue it for the fifth time. I think I might take the throttle pedal out next time it makes it hard to get in there with wet glue.

[mrglaeser]

Also prior to installing the latest pieces of carpet I cut the wholes for the fresh air vents. I figure the metal shaving would never come out if I waited until all of that was done.






Not the most exciting update. I think next weekend I'll finish the carpet easily. Then I'm going to test all of the electrics. After that probably first start.

[gbranham]

That's a whole lotta hole. Nice job.

[mrglaeser]

Another little update. More carpeting

Front of DS Footbox


Outside DS Wall


Outside PS Wall. Took a lot of clamps, bars, and other bits to get things in nice and tight.


Front and outside PS Footbox


PS upper floor.


PS all done.


DS all Done.


Good news is I finally got my Gas-N side pipes (ordered in August) this week. Bad news it was two drivers side. So got a return label and sent them back. Bummer. It happens. I would suggest though anyone who wants Black Ceramic Coated pipes order well ahead. There is a shortage of stainless that puts all pipes out 10 weeks. Then there is another 2-4 weeks for coating, BUT....... now there is also a shortage of coating medium so there could be an additional delay.

Still hoping for a first start this month we'll see (was also hoping for December, then January, but it's a project with no deadline). This week I'm going to try bleeding the brakes, program the sniper, and test all the electrical components. Maybe I'll do the roll bars or possibly some under coating. Figure keep moving with whatever I can.

[mrglaeser]

Still waiting as expected on my side pipes from Gas-N. They received the return on Thursday but haven't seen a new shipping notification so still waiting on the.

So in the mean time I went back to working on the foot vents. There are gap between the sides of the pipe and the flap that would let a lot of air through when closed. I've seen people use foam to close this. I thought I might as well but I wanted to test it and at 250 in the toaster oven all the foams shrank to 40% their original size. i didn't think this would work. So I ordered some stove rope which is good to something like 1500 degrees. But I couldn't figure out an easy way to install it and keep it from unraveling.

Next I looked into silicon and found this 1/2 inch round 10ft for something like $8. Figured I could order it and play with it. I tested in the oven. No shrinkage and no melting. But the shape was a pain. So I cut 2 straight edges. It took several tries to get close to consistent cuts.

Here it is whole:


Here it is after the first cut:


and here is a profile after both cuts.


I drilled a few holes and rivetted the gasket in to the flu.


I think it will work well.

After that a friend came over and we started testing out the electrical system.

So Far No white smoke has been released.
-The power cutoff switch works
-The ignition switch works for On and Accessory. I did not test the starter
-The Holley Sniper system came online as expected
-After programming the basics the fuel pump turned on and showed me a couple leaks
-The Headlights hi, low, and hi indicator worked perfectly even with the Mustang switch
-The parking and tail lights worked perfectly
-The Blige Fans both worked but were making a huge racket so we cutout and thicker isolators and the problem was solved
-The Heater fan worked for all three speeds but also made a lot of noise. A little adjustment on the bracket that holds the motor and problem solved
-We could hear the electronic cutoff valve in the heater hose moving when we adjusted the temp knob
-The cubie light works the trunk light doesn't will need to check the solder points. I forgot to test the footbox lights
-The 2 power accessory ports worked
-1 of 2 usb ports worked. The other had the power and ground reversed. A quick change and both work
-The horn didn't work until we redid the relay wiring, blowing a fuse in the process
-The brake lights don't work. I suspect it is the used switch I threw in there
-The Hazards work and the turn signals work like Hazards. After a little research I think this is due to the switch I used for the hazard. I replace it and try again. I also found 1 lose connection keeping the Driver Rear turn/hazard from working - fixed it.
-The Fan override didn't seem to work. I'll test it next time. As I didn't run the engine I wasn't able to test that the fan works.

Over all not bad so far. I get those items above sorted then once I get the side pipes I should be in good shape for first start. After that Brakes and maybe go-karting

[mrglaeser]

Things feel like they have been moving slow lately. But still trying to get whatever I can done in the little free time I've had lately.

A couple non-photo related items.

-I found a Duel Post, Single Throw switch for the hazard lights and that fixed it so my turn signal lights work correctly. Though now that I've done that I found I could have just a couple diodes.
-I fixed all the fuel leaks at the pressure regulator and it seems to be holding the pressure at 60
-I tested the connections and the brake lights work so it must be a bad switch. I have a replacement and will see if I can get it replaced this week.
-I did the setup procedure on the Fuel Gauge and now it works.
-I fixed the wiring for the trunk light

Here's my daughter putting in a weather pack for the new hazard switch.


I also finally received my Gas-N side pipes. Here are some un-boxing photos








So maybe next week I can get them temporarily installed and then it's time maybe for first start!

[mrglaeser]

I also went ahead and drilled all the holes for the role bars. That was less than fun. But glad to get them done and the go-kart looks more fun with role bars. The trick I found working with them was to use a wire wheel on a Rotary tool and clean clean clean clean the inside of the rear sections.

I have some black stainless button heads on order to replace the bright ones.

[mrglaeser]

Finally I messed around with the J-pipes and some support hangers. The drivers side seems short so I'm a little worried there. We'll see when we go to hang the pipes to see what happens. I used some Fiat exhaust hangers, generic rubber isolators, some stainless z brackets, and hardware store turn buckles. I think the supports came out nice.

[mrglaeser]

I had a lot of work travel in March so I didn't get a lot of shot time unfortunately. But I did make some progress. First I had test fit the side pipes to the J-pipes and it was not looking good. The passenger side seemed to stick out and the drivers side looked like it had a 3/4 inch or more gap. Eeek. I thought about ordering a stack of spacers from Breeze, but decided to swap the J-pipes side to side. I couldn't find any place that told me which side each J-pipe should be used on. I had put the longer one on the PS side and the shorter one on the DS. That was backwards. Once I swapped them the side pipes lined up pretty well. So now I know longer one goes on the DS and shorter on the PS.

Next the parking break.. oh the parking brake. I saw a ton of forum posts about the parking break. I just thought come on how hard can it be it's just a couple cables. What a PIA I spend 15x the amount of time I think is reasonable messing around with the parking break.

I am using the Summit Wilwood kit for Factory Five Mark IV rear calipers. They integrate the parking brake with a single floating caliper, no second caliper I see on a lot of builds so I suspect it is a different kit than FFR provides (it was 30% less money). I'm also using a later Foxbody Mustang brake handle and have a solid Axel. So I ordered standard Mustang parking cables.

The first challenge is the cable ends at the calipers were to big for the bracket on the Wilwood Calipers. So I tried ordering the disc brake cables for a Mustang and same issues. So I had to clearance the bracket. Not much but just enough. The cables slide in with no slop.

The next challenge was the cables were way too long on the unsheathed end. I ordered some cable stops off amazon and some automotive sources but none fit the thick Mustang cables. I finally found these https://www.littleshopmfg.com/parkin...-for-dbc-kits/ . Though when I got them they were quite large. So I took my dremel out to clearance the bracket for them to fit. Hears a photo that shows the cutout I made to retain the stops.


Next up I found it hard to get the right length to the cable and then pull the cable attached to the handle to attach the shortened cables. I read online about preloading the spring and holding it with a retaining pin. So pulled the handle out and using my vice and some leverage got the pin in. Reinstalled the handle. Adjust the cable lengths and got everything assembled.


HA! What I didn't realize is that heavy spring in the handle is only needed for drum brakes. DOH! Now I could get the parking break to engage but not disengage the handle spring completely over powered the

Now at this point I should have just swapped out the handle and done the over the 4inch tube mod I've seen so many others do. But I'm stubborn. So I kept researching. Apparently on Foxbodys if you add rear discs you have to modify the handle.

First cut out the spring. Ok Done.


Next lock the handle in place with a weld or this fancy little Ford Racing part. Done


Finally drill out the bracket that you attach the two cables to and install an adjustable cable that goes to the handle.




Finally install. After 30 min of adjustments and relengthening the cables, plus some clean up I have a working parking brake. W00T. So I put the cover on for a finishing touch.

[mrglaeser]

Finally I know a lot of folks find the cables bind and use a pulley system to reroute. My Ford cables came with the these springs I positioned on the 4 inch round tube and the brakes feel like any production car I've ever driven. So I think all is good. I do worry about some wear points though. So if that is a problem I have a plan to build a bracket with a pulley and use a longer front adjustable cable. But for now I'm happy if things last and work I won't mess with it again. But seriously that was more work than it should have been.

Also here is a pick of the bracket with both adjustable cable stops showing before I installed the adjustable front cable. You can see the springs just barely.

[Highplainsdakota]

It’s really interesting when you get to the next part of a build and things may just fit right in place, or you spend 2 weeks, 100’s of dollars in random other parts and fabrications to get something simple to work. All part of the journey I guess. Nice to see another section one together and be able to move on though!

[mrglaeser]

That's 1/2 the fun I suppose the problem solving.

[mrglaeser]

Oooof 3.5 months between posts. Not a lot of forward movement. Have some first start things to sort out which hopefully happens soon. But a few things have moved forwards.

Did a little more work on the foot box vents. I found these 3 inch grill vents for jet skis. I pointed them so the air should flow down coming out.


I bolted in a flange and pressed in the grills






Then I used a silicone union to attach the marine flues I prepared earlier


Add Napa pulls and now have a working cutoff.

[mrglaeser]

Here are a few more flue install








I will add the hoses later. I wand to use rivnuts to hold the panel that goes behind the front wheels on and will need to cut a hole for the hose and an indent or use a dog bowl for the master cyclinder.


I also re-assembled the license plate holder/light after powder coating it last year.

[mrglaeser]

https://youtu.be/yOFGhnr4rto

For some the 3rd time is the charm. For me it was more like 6. But that's ok this is a journey. Mistakes were made. I'm new to this and decided to do as much myself as possible that included assembling most of the engine, install of the clutch, installation of the TKX, and rebuilding the rear-end. There were bound to be challenges. I was hoping to start the engine last fall actually so now I'm only about 9 months late.

Mistake #1 - I used the wrong head gaskets. With a Boss Block there are larger head gaskets. If you use standard gaskets the larger water jackets are slightly exposed and when you go to fill the cooling system coolant leaks from between the head and block. I found that out last winter. Then had to take the top end of the engine completely apart to change them out. I wrapped this up in Feburary (needing to of course wait for parts and due to the fact I only have so much free time to work on the car).



when I first assembled the engine I was focused on the gaskets being lined up and oriented correctly I honest should have but didn't notice the gaps (See above). Below are the nice larger gaskets. Now I did just install the gaskets that were sent to me with the top end kit. The company that put the combination together knew what block I was using - but I should have noticed.



I ended up working a lot and taking a lot of time to install, wire, and plumb the Sniper/Hyperspark setup. So the first test fire was in May - it did not go so well:

https://photos.smugmug.com/Home/9999...0Poof-1280.mp4

Mistake #2 - I installed an in-sufficient ground. The ground cable "nope'd" right out of there and melted. Then the electricity did was it does and found a new ground as it flowed through the Sniper casing, arched from the throttle bracket to the mechanical throttle linkage. That little puff of smoke was a bit of the Sniper casing melting, the throttle return spring deforming, and the plastic bushing for the throttle return spring melting. I thought I could replace the spring but Holley doesn't sell it. I figured this out after disassembling the throttle on the sniper. I did send it in to Holley, they put it back together and tested it, but did not replace the spring.... But they also didn't charge me. So I bought and external spring assemble and re-installed everything. By this time it was the end of June. I had 2 work trips and 2 weeks in Europe with the family so no work got done in July.

Mistake #3 - I caught this one before there were repercussions. I wired the sparkplugs in reverse order. I did it clock-wise and it should have been counter clock wise. Not failed start here but I did do it wrong initially.

So today I tried starting the engine again. Here is the first attempt:

https://photos.smugmug.com/Home/9999...plash-1280.mp4

Mistake #4 - When I installed the Hyperspark distributor I was on the exhaust not the compression stroke. Honestly it took me a little while figure this one out. But we pulled the distributer and valve covers. Figured it out and reinstalled the distributor.

Finally we tried again (click image to play video) -

https://photos.smugmug.com/Home/9999...Wohoo-1280.mp4

I had wanted to get up to temperature to verify the gauges and cooling fan. But the Clutch cable started touching the headers and got a little melty (the casing anyway) so we stopped. Additionally the header wrap seemed to be burning something off. Not sure why. I did use some header wrap sealer but didn't expect it to do that. So we took this as a win. Later this week I'll deal with the clutch cable, check with the manufacture of the header wrap spray, and we'll bleed the brakes. Next time we'll start it outside and not fill the shop with such fun toxic smells. But in all honestly the car started right up once we figured out the distributor and it sounded great. No weird noises. I'm taking that as a long awaited win. Go Kart - here we come.

I wasn't sure if I should post all of this, but I figured there are folks on here with different levels of experience. Many with more, some with less than me. I figured why hide the mistakes and re-tries all us newbs are all trying to figure it out.

[gbranham]

Your idle sounds like your timing is way off, just like mine did on my first start. As a consequence of mine being retarded and not advanced, my headers glowed bright orange at idle. Might explain why your header wrap is burning.

[mrglaeser]

Your idle sounds like your timing is way off, just like mine did on my first start. As a consequence of mine being retarded and not advanced, my headers glowed bright orange at idle. Might explain why your header wrap is burning.

I don't think the timing is off. Maybe the video sounds different than it did IRL. I was pushing the gas pedal to change the RPM's and listen for unexpected noises. I'm sure the timing wasn't perfect as the engine didn't even get warm enough for self-learning to cut in so the Holley would have been using some default based on the initial inputs I gave it. I used and heat sensing gun and neither the block or exhaust seemed out of line (just under 100 f for the block and just over 200 f for the exhaust). I did a little looking and DEI's site said the exhaust wrap coating will off gas and smoke until it has been heat cycled a few times. Also if I'm being honest I think a fair amount of oil got on the exhaust from when I primed the engine and made sure oil was coming out of the rocker arms. So for now I'm not too worried.

[cv2065]

I'd probably take that header wrap off until you get it all dialed in so you can see and measure what's going on. I'd also look into some spark plug wire management so they are secured and don't touch anything hot. What's your base timing set at?

[mrglaeser]

@cv2065 - Wire management is purchased but as I was pulling the valve covers on and off setting things up I didn't install yet. Will be working that this week after figuring out a better routing for the clutch cable. Was really just focused on getting the engine to start before cleaning everything up. The wires aren't touching anything and don't seem to move as long as the chassis is stationary. As for removing the wrap... once it gets hot it's not re-usable (due to the sealer) so if I pull it off I have to re-do it all. However I might see if I can find someone with a full sized oven that would let me heat cycle the headers and J-pipes. They don't fit in my toaster oven and there is no chance my wife will let me do that in the house.

[mrglaeser]

Just a few updates over the last couple of weeks.

First I got a reverse switch pigtail, ran a power to the back for a backup light and tested that it worked when in reverse. Photo isn't great but here it is anyway.




Next I don't have any photos of it, but I finally figured out the right way to wire up the courtesy lights to the 65 Mustang Light switch I'm using. So now I can turn the knob left and get lights in the foot boxes. Not a big deal but it was bugging me. The trick is the RF harness is expecting a ground interrupt switch the Ford is opposite and you have to wire the power to one courtesy light post on the switch and the positive leads to the other, then ground the lights to the chassis.

Next after all the worry above for my birds nest of spark plug wires I put in the cable management. I think it turned out pretty good even if 2 wires were a little short to wire exactly like the diagram.








I also spent some time creating a fitting so I can power bleed my brakes (this weekend's fun probably).

[mrglaeser]

Another side quest I've had going on and off this year is what to do with the tunnel cover. I thought I would attempt it myself. And I did. Attempt it. The plan is two cupholders, oh-Sh*t handle, and nice little elbow rest in the back using the same vinyl as the dash, seats, and doors. It took me two tries to get the foam cut (marine waterproof foam), then my first attempt at covering it failed because there was line along the foam/metal seam.



So I pulled the cover off and added some batting:



But this also left a smaller seem where I had joined two pieces of batting.

I don't have photos but I did re-bat (is that word) and covered it again with a single piece of vinyl. With the larger pad for the elbow I could not get a smooth laydown of a single cut of vinyl. At this point I was as far as I can go without access to a heavy duty sewing machine. So I took it in to be covered. The interior shop was able to use my foam/batting job and did a nice job covering it.







Still need to punch some holes and screw it down but I think it looks pretty good.

[mrglaeser]

Still no major changes on the project, but progress a few items
.
First it took a lot more work then I though but I did get the tunnel cover screwed down. I had to remove some sound/heat map on the bottom of the cover and trim some of the vinyl wrapped around and glued. Plus I trim some carpet and a little sheet metal in the cockpit. I should have waited to drill and tap the holes once the cover was wrapped rather than doing it with bare metal.





Next I spent a full morning and a then some cutting, cleaning, painting, and drilling bracket for the vent louvers and to hold the clutch cable. It never stops to amaze me the number of hours going down a rabbit hole can eat up.

[mrglaeser]

I also installed the brackets to louvers in prep to locate and install studs on the body.


I see many folks use 8-32s I used silicone and 6-32 button head and lock nuts.



Horrible pic but here is the bracket for the clutch cable to keep it from rubbing the engine mount




Additionally I tested the cooling fan it works if I bridge power so I've reached out to tech support of my fan controller to hopefully explain how to wire the override switch. The way I have it the override isn't activating the switch.

Finally (no pic) I installed four stainless bolts and couplers in the back so when we fit the body we can use Kleiner's rear quick jack mod. Tip: when creating a a custom drop trunk leave a little room to get at the quick jack mounting holes. I had to get a little creative

This fall I'll be working to trim and fit the body. I will admit I have some nerves about cutting the fiberglass but one of my goals was to do as much of the build myself so I'll have to get over it.

[Blitzboy54]

Interior is elite.

[mrglaeser]

Still pretty busy with work and 'Life' so not a lot of progress on the roadster lately. But still haven't stop and get at least a couple hours a week in.

First John Ibele came by and helped me start to get an initial alignment. We got through some of the steps, but only got so far. We set the initial ride height. We couldn't get the upper A-Arms to the right initial measurements. The adjustment sleeve was too long. So I ended up cutting a bit of the sleeves and was able to get the measurements where they should be. We'll come back to it in a couple weeks. That was enough to get most the tow in taken care of and reduce the camber. So now I at least feel comfortable doing some go-karting in the near future.

I also purchased some Schroth ASM II harnesses for the car and installed them. I got the normal ones because I really like the cam lock. I don't think that is a big issue in MN. I thought about changing the brackets out to bolt in as these come with snap in, but it was just as easy and much cheaper to just install eyebolts. Here are some install photos. I'm really happy how it all came out.

First installed some nice powder coated bezels/trim.


Then the eyebolts


Then I pressed my high schooler into service for the detailed work. We both learned to wrap the brackets. It turned out to be a lot less confusing than I thought it would be.




Slack rolled up nice and Neat.


The Eyebolts and seat seem to fit fine. I'm going to use adjustable seat tracks and raise the seat an inch or inch and 1/2 anyway. So I don't see an issue with fitment. (fingers crossed)

[mrglaeser]

Continued....

She thinks this qualifies her to drive the car....


beyond installing the seat I also marked out where I'm going to trim the body for side louvers, open the exhaust cutout, trim the wheel wells, and clean up the trunk. Hopefully I do that all in the next couple of weeks and then the plan is to fit the louvers, under coat the body, and then fit the body to the car.








I also created a harness for the headlights and ran it through the head light bucket. Along with drilling out the locating holes for the buckets - So I guess I've made the first modification to the body. A lot more to go.


Finally I got a rubber block off amazon and cut some 5/8" body spacers for the front of the car.

[mrglaeser]

More small progress... which hopefully will add up.

I installed a quick release Fire extinguisher mount. Pretty easy drill and tap two holes for M7 counter sunk bolts. And screw in. Here are some not very exciting photos:





And I made the first cuts to the body. I'm testing a few techniques with some new tools so I only have worked on areas that will be covered up. So I widened the wiring holes for the tail lights and front indicators so I can fit weather tech connectors threw them, straightened one of the rear roll bar tube holes, and radiused the whole for the gas cap and low body lip by where the gas tank will be. My plan is to work up to more visible areas soon.

[mrglaeser]

After playing with some smaller cuts I jumped in and did the wheel wells. First I marked of the area to Keep.






Then I used an air saw to cut the extra off and rounded with 80 grit. I ended up with a couple low spots I'll use some filler to build back up when I fill in other gaps. But that will be after a summer in Gelcoat









I'm probably a little bit slow but this whole process took me 5-6 hours. I can see that the body work is going to take quite a bit of time.

[mrglaeser]

I don't know if this is something that bothers other folks but the trunk opening was not trimmed evenly at all on my body.







The photos make it look better than I feel it was before I started. But I used an angle grinder and 80 grit to make more even. Then again round the edge by hand. Here is photo after the die grinding. I didn't take one after cleaning the edge.



Another 1 to 2 hours on this activity.

[mrglaeser]

Probably one of my biggest worries is getting the louver openings cut correctly. I've seen so many different ways of doing on this is site from air saw, to router templates, etc.
I ended up just doing what Kliener says he does with thin cutting blade on a grinder and an 8 grit sanding drum.

Of course I spent way to long cutting out a template. I must have done it 1/2 dozen times until I was happy with the results. These aren't the final ones I used but show my horribly slow multi step process.







I also didn't get photos of the markings on the Car prior to cutting. I wish I had it's interesting how big a difference there is between the upgraded and standard louvers. But the cutting went pretty smoothly and sanding with a drum sander really did the trick in making a nice smooth transition.

Before


After






Still a bit of clean up to go, but I don't think I completely botched them which was my original concern.

[mrglaeser]

Additionally when I cut the louver holes I also expanded the exhaust cutouts in the front.





After a few days I also lined up the louvers where I liked them. Marked the location for the studs, and glued/glassed/adhered them to the body.
I saw this trick of using painting sticks to hold the louvers in place. Worked out pretty nicely.









I could not get the fiber glass repair compound to look nice I think the studs are too close together along with the design of my body buck I just couldn't get any tools in there. And when the box says you have 10 minutes to work it is not kidding. But the work seems strong and holding well so I guess no one should be looking in there right?



I might try to sand some of the ugly swirls and lines down later. After that the next step is to flip the body over and apply some bedliner.