coolant and heater connections SBF

[Legendary]

I have been reading up on connecting up the heater up to a BPE 302. lots of posts on removing one of the connecting barbs and capping it off. Still not 100% sure I have it right..
So I am planning to connect the factory five vintage heater to the BPE 302.
Seems like I need to connect the ports for the bypass (ports 1 & 2) I was thinking since I will have a heater that I did not need to do that. Then again I am rookie, and don't now what I don't know.
Then I think I need to move my temperature sensor (just for the gauges) to the other side of the engine and attach one of my heater ports there.
Then the return line goes to the port 3

Does this seem correct?

Picture

[Legendary]

1000002478.jpg

[egchewy79]

I have a threaded nipple for the heater inlet from the bung you have your EFI sender in.
return hose goes to #3 in your diagram.
I do have a bypass from #1 to #2. Keeps fluid flowing even before the thermostat opens. I also have a small 1/8" hole drilled at 12 oclock in my thermostat to keep fluid flowing past the sender on your water neck. I'd put my EFI sender in the waterneck where you have your dash sender since it's more critical and put your dash temp sender somewhere on the DS intake.

[phileas_fogg]

I've got the same setup as Chewy, except I put my EFI temperature sensor on the other side of the intake manifold (well, actually Forte did), and I have my dash temperature gauge sensor in the thermostat housing just like you do.

It takes about 5 minutes for the dash gauge to start reading temperature. But for me, that's conveniently at the exit to my neighborhood. If the temperature doesn't register by the time I get to the stop light, I'll know I've got a problem.


John

[Norm B]

This is my setup. The EFI ECT sensor is in the driver side intake manifold port. This is the location used by engine suppliers and recommended by the aftermarket EFI installation instructions. In my opinion this is the most critical of the two sensors. It provides the information needed for the ECU to set mixture, timing and control the radiator fan.
Number 1 and 2 in the OPs picture are connected together with a short hose. Number 3 is the return from the heater core. Routing from the heater core to this port is your choice. I ran mine down the intake valley like Ford did in the Mustang and other cars up to 1995. Passenger side intake manifold port is the feed side for the heater core. I installed a Tee fitting in this port and have the sender for the gauge installed there. For this to read temps correctly some method of having continuous coolant flow is required. A bypass heater control is an excellent option but, they are larger than the supplied one and wouldn’t work with my hose routing. Made a bypass block to allow a small amount of coolant to flow through with the heater off.
The port in the thermostat housing isn’t good for either the gauge or EFI because it doesn’t receive coolant flow until the thermostat opens. The EFI won’t gradually adjust as the engine warms and/or your gauge won’t show an increase in temperature until that happens. In a worst case scenario, your thermostat could fail, never open, and your engine would overheat without the gauge ever moving off the cold position. This port is an excellent option for a fan control sensor and I used it for that prior to the Sniper upgrade.

HTH

Norm

[egchewy79]

The port in the thermostat housing isn’t good for either the gauge or EFI because it doesn’t receive coolant flow until the thermostat opens. The EFI won’t gradually adjust as the engine warms and/or your gauge won’t show an increase in temperature until that happens. In a worst case scenario, your thermostat could fail, never open, and your engine would overheat without the gauge ever moving off the cold position. This port is an excellent option for a fan control sensor and I used it for that prior to the Sniper upgrade.

HTH

Norm

drilling a small hole at the top of the thermostat flange allows for the fluid to constantly flow past the sender in this location, even if the thermostat fails to open.

[Legendary]

After some more research and a some clarification from BluePrint I got it sorted out now.

Moved the EFI sensor to the Driver side of the intake manifold.

Used the port on the passenger side (where the EFI was) to hook up to the heater core (hot) side. According to Blue print, only 2 ports are recommended for hooking up to the heater. Both on the intake manifold, usually one or both is plugged. The spot where I have my dash sensor ( right behind the filler neck) is not to be used for the heater and
is the recommended location for the dash sensor . I believe some folks have the heater hooked up there and it still works but not recommended by Blue Print.

I still needed to hook up the bypass hose from ports 1 and 2. In my opinion the engine should come with that already hooked up. Recommended part number is NAPA 7477.

Lastly the return line from the heater goes to the lower barb near the water pump. Port #3 in my jpic.

All the ports get used.
Hope this helps some othere out .

See attached pic
IMG_20240501_223151_356~2.jpg

[rich grsc]

Bypass must be used, heater returns to water pump #3 nipple.