Wiring question for temp sensor.
See pic. Left side is the sending unit wires,black and blue. The middle shows the connector that came with the vintage gauge set. Note the middle pin is not used. On the right is the RF dash harness connector. Note the left pin is not used but the middle one is used.
Assuming I am supposed to connect the RF dash harness directly to the gauges, does it matter if the signal is on the left or middle? Seems that several of them are like that. Example this fuel pressure and gas tank level also use the middle pin and the one on the left is blank.
Perhaps I should just run some of the connectors that came with the vintage gauge set directly to the engine?
I followed what the gauges did, so if I ever needed to replace the gauge it "should" just unplug then plug it back in.
My RF harness had one of the connectors where the wire was in the middle, and the wire from the gauge was on the edge. Also had two of the connector's crimp fail. I believe the pins are only a one time use. So, I ended up buying a package of new connectors/pins, so I could fix everything. Just make sure they are the Micro Molex connectors.... I bought some that were too long
As for me, I ended up using the Speed hut wires for the oil pressure, and water temp. They are way too long, and you can trim them, (I ended up zip tying them together in a small bundle), then removed the RF oil pressure/water and temp wires from the harness. All sorts of ways you can do it.
Ken
MK4 #10476, complete kit, Gen 3 Coyote, TKX with 0.68 overdrive, 3.55 Mustang IRS, 18" rims, dual rollbar, Carbon fiber dash,
Ordered 12/18/2021, Deliverd 9/24/2022, First Start 6/24/2023, Licensed 6/2024
Back when I built my first Roadster, 2018, I used the RF harness wires and had problems with the oil pressure and water temp gauges not working. Speedhut told me to always use their supplied dedicated wire. I hooked their wiring up to those two and all worked. Not sure if that is still needed but if you run into issues I suggest going with their supplied wiring. I plan to use their wire on this second build.
2nd MK4 #10639 received 3-19-23. Wife's version. Street Snake - IRS, Willwoods, no roll bars, no hood scoop, no stripes, Blue Print Sniper 2, 302 with 4R70w trans, and under car exhaust. McLaren Racing Green with saddle leather interior.
1st build - Mk4 Roadster #9319, received 4-10-18. IL registration 8/6/19. Moser 8.8. 3 Link. Wilwood brakes. Blue Print 427, Holley 750, TKO 600, 0.64 OD. Paint Dec 2020. Ruby Red with Carbon Flash Black metallic stripes.
It seems less issues if I just use the speed hut wires. Now I just need to think about the fuel sender one. Kind of a pain to run that all the way back to the fuel tank.
I used the speed hut gauge supplied wires. Cut into them and you will see they are well shielded, so they ran thru the fire wall the same hole as the tach and ignition coil supply. I removed all the RF harness feeds for the dash gauges. For the fuel sender, I plan to re-pin the connector using the speedhut wire to pick up the rear harness. and due the same with the tach signal.
I pruned out most of the dash harness wires. Will order the micro molex connectors and repin the fuel gauge wires so it can connect to the RF harness.
I appreciate everyone's input
I had two "mistakes" in my Ron Francis harness that I am aware of. The rear harness had a the purple and ground switched, and my fuel connector was like the one you show where either speed hut or ron fancis pinned them wrong.
Thanks: 
Likes: 
Reply With Quote
