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Way cool!
33 Hot Rod Stage 1, Gen.2 ordered 11/11/2021 started June 12, 2022, LS3 E-Rod crate engine, Tremec TKX, 8.8 WITH 3.55 Ratio and limited slip with 31 spline axles.17X8 and18x10 Race Star wheels wrapped in Conti Extreme contact DWS tires, Mustang Cobra brakes all around. Electric PS and AC. Hard top, electric windows and bike fenders. First Start 5/31/2023. Go-Kart 6/2/2023.
I took the dash and waterfall to the upholstery shop today. Spent hours and hours over the weekend getting the waterfall to fit right. Lots of trimming and sanding, and splitting, and re-glassing, and filling.... But it fits like it was made for the car now. Go figure!!
I was going to use the door panels as is since they seemed fairly nice. They've been sitting in the box and I hadn't looked at them very closely, but once I realized how much they needed to be shaped to fit the door (and that they're 1/8" thick) I decided to ditch the covering. The vinyl on them wasn't stretched very tight either and they were a bit wavy. Nice that FFR covers them but I think I want them a bit cleaner. I'm having a french seam/stitch done across the upper waterfall that will tie into the door panels and follow down the door body line. Very subtle but hopefully it will look nice.
I haven't pulled mine out and looked at them eighth either. I opened the box, counted the parts and taped it back up. Now I'll take a closer look. Thanks!
33 Hot Rod Stage 1, Gen.2 ordered 11/11/2021 started June 12, 2022, LS3 E-Rod crate engine, Tremec TKX, 8.8 WITH 3.55 Ratio and limited slip with 31 spline axles.17X8 and18x10 Race Star wheels wrapped in Conti Extreme contact DWS tires, Mustang Cobra brakes all around. Electric PS and AC. Hard top, electric windows and bike fenders. First Start 5/31/2023. Go-Kart 6/2/2023.
I have no idea how I would have formed these with the upholstery on them. Even if you had metal bending tools (which I don't) I don't see how you wouldn't be likely to screw up the vinyl. I was able to remove it though in tact so I could technically put it back on. I went and bought a piece of D shaped stair rail wood and screwed it to a 2x6. Put that on the ground and stood with all my weight jumping up and down on the panel to get it curved in the right spot. It fits but it was a bit of a chore. Hoping the other side goes as well!
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Mastertech5 liked this post
One side all fit up. I'm going to work on a different pin latch bezel design now since the one from FFR is basic and doesn't actually fit all that well. I'm thinking of making it so there's a lower fixed part that will allow me to just pinch the pin latch down vs. pushing down the whole door to release it. We'll see. Gotta think about that some more.
I also have to bond some extra material to the doors in some areas. Not sure why they would make the door like 1/32" thick in some spots and expect a 1/8" door panel to attach. Whatever - easy enough to thicken it up but I wish now I had done that before paint.
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Looking forward to you being next to me at Cars and Coffee soon!
#10333 Complete Kit, Carbed 427w, TKX, IRS and many other upgrades
- Order Date: September 11, 2021 - 20th Anniversary of 9/11
- Delivery Day: April 1, 2022 - April Fool's Day
- First Start and Go-Kart: January 20th, 2023
- Graduation Date: July 4th, 2023 - Independence Day!!
- Legal Registration Date: October 4, 2023 - My Birthday!!
Visit my MKIV Build Thread (#10333)
I was lucky able to shape mine with the vinyl on them, but needed to be very careful. Agree it was quite a process to get them shaped, like you, it involved 2x6s, lots of persuasion, but in the end it worked out well. I also cut a 6" hole in them for speakers. My kit was from 2020 and the upholstery work was very well done (tight, well bonded, straight ,etc.), perhaps FFR switched subcons for upholstery work.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/URrXRYkJGZ2MEUGi8
Jim
33 Hot Rod w/ 302 & Tremec T5; paint color is 68 Ford Mustang GT LimeGold
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...s-Build-Thread
Last edited by BradC; 08-24-2023 at 07:01 PM.
I machined and polished new door latch bezels that are basically the same shape as what FFR does but elongated at the bottom to hold an extra post giving something to pinch the latch vs. just pushing down on it. This makes it a lot easier to open the door IMO. This is just a 3D printed version to test. Not sure if I'll leave it black, paint it body color, or machine them. I have a friend with a CNC lathe so maybe I can pull a favor later on. Not a big priority right now since the printed one works fine. I need to get going on the other door panel so they're ready to go to upholstery early next week.
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I got the dash and waterfall back today already. I'm really surprised they turned them around so quick. I had the door panels ready anyway so I headed over to drop those off and get the finished parts. Looks good. I decided not to do the cosmetic stitching after all. I just wasn't sure how it would look and didn't want to risk it for just a subtle feature.
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But of course... the universe has to get in its normal evil fun. I realized that the wiring connections for the drive mode buttons are about 1 inch too short to plug in - UGH!! I'm not sure how I did that. Bad measurement obviously but of all things... So I have to get all the wiring crap back out and fix it. Later this weekend maybe..
Dash looks awesome. Nice and clean.
I agree! Nice work!
Mk III 4880: 3:55 - 3 link, T-5, 347, Holley Sniper/dual sync distributor, Comp Cams XE274HR, Edelbrock RPM Heads
Thanks for the comments guys...
Fairly big milestone here - the outside is 'done' at least to the point where I can schedule my appointment with CHP! I had the first DMV appt. last week which went fine. Mirrors and lights are on and I fixed the short plugs going to the drive mode switches. Everything seems to be working. I had forgotten to check the radiator fan functionality but it powers up just fine when I set the motor temp down in the controller.
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All that's left now as far as assembly are the door panels, and I should get those late next week. This feels kind of weird closing in on the final details! There will be more to do once I get some miles on it. I'm sure I'll find bugs and things needing adjustment. Plus project cars are never really done - I'll have stuff I want to change I'm sure. Looking forward to seeing how it drives with a full charge but I need to avoid the temptation I think at least until I get it insured.
Oh, and I'm STILL waiting for the CANBUS channel file. I think next week I'll just ask them to send it even if it's not fully tested. I'd rather just be able to start messing with it. It's drivable with the iPad interface until then anyway.
Tom Veale liked this post
You’ve done an incredible job, well done!! The fit and finish is amazing.
I ended up not using the door panels because they were so heavy! Stretching some vinyl over the hole instead but weight is more important on my semi-race car. Agree on the door latches, I don’t know how anyone can open without a piece to squeeze against. I riveted on a simple L channel on same place.
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
Thank you! Most of that credit goes to the body shop though. https://www.facebook.com/streetrodpainter/
They are heavy - I can see why not using them for a track car makes sense.
Dear Brad,
I bought my first FFR car in 2003 and have generally been following along here and at FFCars ever since. Your Build is the most interesting one I've seen in a very long time. I have followed along since you started on this 'electrifying' journey and look forward to hearing about the time you spend driving this unique FFR Rod.
Thanks for the entertainment your efforts have brought to me and lots of others.
Best wishes and Safe Travels,
Tom Veale,
#007 FFR '33 Street Rod
Thank you Tom! I really appreciate the nice comments and I'm glad you've enjoyed following the thread. I'll definitely be posting how things go driving it once I get it registered. Hopefully that doesn't take too long but honestly I'm fine with not getting a bunch of miles on it right away. I want to get that self healing protective film done on the sides but I can't for another month and a half or so until the paint outgasses fully.
Hi Brad,
Something I did when I mounted the front fenders is to use an old inner tube and create a "gasket" the same shape as the metal bracket that adjoins the Fender mounting flange. I thought it might help with vibration transmission between the bracket and fender. It's been that way ever since (2009).
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I cut it to the shape of the bracket, installed it in between the bracket and the glass fender and then riveted it in place.
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It's held up well. No fatigue cracks in about 16K miles.
Best wishes,
Tom
Thanks for the suggestion Tom. I made some stiffening plates for the front fenders that reduce the amount of bouncing significantly but I hadn't thought about adding a gasket like that.
I got a first pass version of the CAN display file Thursday. It needs more work because many of the channels aren't reporting - but I at least have speedometer and odometer now in case CHP wants to see that for my inspection appointment the week after next.
I spent a bunch of time learning the AEM display software, and I was able to make a decent first attempt at my main screen. This will show me most of what I need for normal driving. Motor voltage, amp draw, power, and state of charge are among the parameters not reporting still but we'll get there. I can see those on the iPad and PC interfaces so it's there - just need to get the AEM display seeing it. I'll have to work with EV West more on this.
The display looks blurry in the image for some reason but it's actually very clear with really nice resolution.
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Had a thought late last night about the channels not reporting over CAN. The motor controller has CAN1 and CAN2 ports and I had CAN2 wired to the dash display, which supposedly should have been ok. I was told that the same info is on both ports. But I decided to try swapping it over to CAN1 just to say I tried it and now everything that should be reporting is working!! Go figure.. That was worth the effort for sure.
Next step is to keep working with EV West to get the BMS CAN table made and reporting to the display. Supposedly that will be another couple of weeks which is fine. The main things I need from that are state of charge and battery temperatures, but I also should be able to make a screen that shows a map of all the cells and temperatures by location. Not necessary but it would be a good diagnostic tool to have.
Hi Brad,
My fenders do wiggle a bit with road irregularities. They've held up very well with no fatigue cracks in ~16K miles. I don't know if the rubber gasket has helped, but at the time it seemed important to do something to reduce vibration being transmitted from the suspension to the fender.
I noted my fenders are mounted a bit further back than yours. I'd had to modify the mounting bracket on mine since I didn't have the proper spindles. (mine were 'prototype', with welded steering arms, so I had to find an alternative mounting method). When I changed the spindles out for the current ones with bolt on steering arms I had to rework the mounting brackets once again. Anyway, the back bottom edge of my fenders are about 7" off the ground. I still get some grit and pebbles thrown off the tires, but not too bad.
Best wishes,
Tom
Yeah, the implied position of these front fenders makes them mostly cosmetic. I thought about redesigning the brackets to position them father back. We'll see. I need to find out how much the self-healing protective film is going to cost and go from there.
Tom Veale liked this post
Everything about this build is awesome.
Build 1 MK4 #10008 - Delivered 03/03/21, Graduated 7/20/22 - Sold 6/6/24 Build Thread #1 https://shorturl.at/K9fuy
Build 2 MK4 #11061- Delivered 08/24/24 Build Thread #2 https://shorturl.at/OZowi
Build 3 35 Pickup #329 - Delivered 10/28/25 Build Thread #3 https://shorturl.at/Ty4QQ
Just got the car back on the ground - just in time for my CHP inspection appointment tomorrow morning. I had the rear suspension travel maxed out with the 8" springs so I changed them over to 10" (still 250lb). I checked the bottom out point on the lift with springs disengaged and the tires don't hit the fenders, but I can't simulate a full weight hit that way. So I wanted extra adjustment to be able to start high and then drop it down incrementally. It's good enough now to start driving it and get a feel for how the suspension behaves. I'll likely end up changing out the coilovers for the adjustable QA1 and lighten up the front springs from 400lb like many others seem to do. The rear seems ok with 250lb but we'll see with that too.
Hopefully I'll get a better feel for the timing to finalize registration tomorrow. I have to go back to DMV after CHP and then who knows how long it'll be.
Good luck!
33 Hot Rod Stage 1, Gen.2 ordered 11/11/2021 started June 12, 2022, LS3 E-Rod crate engine, Tremec TKX, 8.8 WITH 3.55 Ratio and limited slip with 31 spline axles.17X8 and18x10 Race Star wheels wrapped in Conti Extreme contact DWS tires, Mustang Cobra brakes all around. Electric PS and AC. Hard top, electric windows and bike fenders. First Start 5/31/2023. Go-Kart 6/2/2023.
CHP appointment went fine. They were great there. A couple officers showed up to check out the car and talk about their project cars too. I got the VIN assigned so now I'll take the car over for brake and lamp inspection tomorrow. Then back to DMV next week. Not sure yet what happens after that but I'll find out I guess. I submitted everything for insurance just now too.
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I realized I haven't posted pictures of the finished interior..
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I was unloading the car off the trailer when I got home and said the hell with it - couldn't resist a drive around the block. This thing is FAST on a full charge!! Holy crap! I was afraid to really get on it in the residential area (and while not registered or insured - ha) but can't wait to get it out on an open road. It tracked straight, brakes were fine, and all seemed ok with it for the short drive.
Like THAT'S a surprise. Likely will be the fastest one out there, by a whole bunch!
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
That is a CLEAN interior - very nicely done!
Mk III 4880: 3:55 - 3 link, T-5, 347, Holley Sniper/dual sync distributor, Comp Cams XE274HR, Edelbrock RPM Heads
I don't know - I've seen some crazy engines in others. There was one at the body shop while mine was there with a twin turbo Coyote. This is definitely the most low end torque I've ever had in a car though. My LS3 Camaro was incredible but the acceleration wasn't like this!
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
This comes to mind... I actually saw this car in person once in Monterey at the Baja Cantina. He might have me beat by one or two HP.
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Geoff H liked this post
Mk III 4880: 3:55 - 3 link, T-5, 347, Holley Sniper/dual sync distributor, Comp Cams XE274HR, Edelbrock RPM Heads
BradC liked this post
Brad, You're car is looking amazing. Glad to here your licensing process is going well. I really need to get moving on mine so I can experience the ride you describe.
Yeah, a Model 3 performance ride what was got me thinking about doing this project. Crazy acceleration.
Dan - you won’t be disappointed with the power I would imagine!