North Florida 289 Build, #10306

[Chainsaw]

Still working on hooking up the Sniper wiring, but I did get some things done - installed correct length power steering lines and the fuel pressure regulator to Sniper fuel line, installed the Hyperspark coil, added Mike Forte’s transmission spacers and AC pedals, and installed the Breeze lower coolant tube x-brace bracket.
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I hope to get done with some of the more exciting stuff soon.

[Chainsaw]

Coil installation.

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Headrest prototype mostly complete.

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It’s a very solid connection, but I might need to add a bracket of some sort on the upper section of the sleeve below the upper thumb screw. I’m using button head screws for the connections through the seat back. There are 4ea 10-32s through the seat back and tapped into the 1/2” 6061 block inside the sleeve & 2ea 1/4-20s which go through the seat back and sleeve. The 1/4” bolts were also intended to act as a stop for the headrest shaft but the bottom of the halo makes contact with the seat cover before the shaft hits the bolts. There are also 2ea 1/4-28 thumbscrews which locate the headrest shaft and are threaded through both the shaft and 6061 block. After sitting in the seat I don’t feel the screw heads through the padding. The headrest is a little close to my head, but it’ll work. Might be a problem with a helmet on. Also, I’ll have to see how the seatbelts interact with the headrest which might cause me to adjust the blocks a little on the next iteration.

The headrest addition seems rather brute force, I must admit, but wanting to make the headrest easily removable led to some complications.

[Jimtmich]

Great idea with the removable headrests. Looking forward to seeing it finished up.

[FredG]

You are having wayyyyy too much fun ... as you should be.

[Chainsaw]

Slow going lately due to travel both personal and for work, but last week I did get the headers installed and the J-pipes in place, but not torqued down yet. Got the oil lines in and routed to the remote filter with my hokey attempt at getting the oil temp sensor in using fittings. I'm pretty sure it will work when stuff gets to steady state, but not sure how it'll respond when the oil is warming up. I couldn't find the fittings I really wanted so there's a couple extra potential leak paths in there.

Thanks to Jeff P for his help with my Sniper/manual fan wiring finished up today. Nice to have a EE 10 minutes away. Still a lot of electrical stuff to test out before I can close that part of the build, for round 1 anyway. Got the clutch plumbing done and will fill/bleed the system in the next couple of days. Spent a lot of today grouping wiring and tying a lot of it down to the back of the dash.

[Chainsaw]

Getting ready for the first start. Got the side pipes in position, but something seemed off.
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I think FFR sent me 2 of the same side. The attachment tabs are in the same place. when I flip the pipe over the tabs are in very different orientations and my guess is one of them won't attach to the hanger arm. Can someone verify for me? Thanks.

[lasse2]

Getting ready for the first start. Got the side pipes in position, but something seemed off.
IMG_3761.jpgIMG_3762.jpg
I think FFR sent me 2 of the same side. The attachment tabs are in the same place. when I flip the pipe over the tabs are in very different orientations and my guess is one of them won't attach to the hanger arm. Can someone verify for me? Thanks.

I got mine a couple weeks ago. They definitely sent you two of the same side. I’m still waiting for the hangers and flange gaskets so I can hang them.

[Chainsaw]

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Just confirming to myself (and FFR) that one of the pipes is wrong. PS pipe looks correct to me. DS pipe ain't right.

[Chainsaw]

Got FFR to agree that they send me 2x PS pipes and they're sending me a DS pipe (someday soon?)

[Chainsaw]

Slow going because I'm too busy with my "part-time" work, family visiting and waiting on the side pipe. New headlight switch (to replace the one I broke) and the DS side pipe are on the way. I hope to get them tomorrow. Checked the settings on my Koni shocks and a good thing. One was different than the others. Did some eyeball measuring for how I'm going to to adjust the angle of the radiator (Thanks for the heads-up, Chris.) Checked the power to the gauges and they're getting some. I'm ready to get this thing started. I'll get the engine primed with oil after our visitors head out Saturday morning.

[Chainsaw]

I couldn't wait for next week. After Lee Bush in StA helped me remove my head from my rear end (pop!) and get my wiring corrected, I was able to spin the motor and slosh the oil around some. I also had to remove the BBK headers and grind off the flanges to be able to get the #1 and #8 plugs in/out with out removing the headers every time. The flange near #1 plug needs a bit more grinding.

[Chainsaw]

Went to check fuel pressure yesterday in prep for 1st start and discovered my battery soiled itself. Did a lot of troubleshooting with Jeff up the road (via phone), but to no avail. Put it on the charger/tender overnight, but no-go. Parts store put it on their tester today, but not enough voltage to even trigger the tester. Got a swap and installed in the car, but working ($$) the rest of the day.

[Chainsaw]

Got a new battery, but still not sure how the other one went tango uniform. I did spin the engine again yesterday and it sounded like it should without actually starting. Will check fuel pressure and look for leaks tomorrow. Got most of the insulation installed in the cockpit yesterday and today. I still need to cut the DS outer foot box piece, but that'll come later. Fixed an oil leak yesterday in my kluged oil temp fitting set up. I hadn't fully tightened one of the adapter fittings. It didn't appear to be leaking after I spun the engine yesterday.

[Chainsaw]

Got fuel pressure and fixed several leaky fittings. Tried to start the beast but no spark. Hyperspark and Sniper both have power. Fuel pressure was about 62 +/- psi so I’ll need adjust that at some point. Have some pondering to do.

[Chainsaw]

Turns out I wasn't really ready for the start. I've been so busy I didn't finish all the reading up I needed to do and missed some more work that needs to be done first. I considered doing what needed to be done to the current MSD, but I didn't feel that comfortable with the task. Not required, but I decided to just order the Hyperspark distributor to make it all the ignition parts go together.

[Chainsaw]

Got the seat heaters wired up, but haven't tested them yet.
Hyperspark distributor is installed. Still sorting out which clean power wire to use with the distributor. All my keyed power lines appear to be in use, so I may tap into the coil power wire from the harness that's already supplying the ignition box.
Some status pix.
Interior Progress.jpgfuel pressure test day.jpg

[lasse2]

Looking great Jack. We are almost exactly at the same stage in our builds. How much ground clearance do you have for your side pipes?

[Chainsaw]

About 3", but they're just loosely attached with bungies right now. I don't want to attach the brackets to the frame until I fit the body and I haven't set the ride height yet either. I'll use some pluming strap to hold them a little better as the bungies are relaxing a bit and may get a bit hotter than they like once the engine gets running.

[Chainsaw]

Got the distributor installed. Tried a a first start today, but no joy. Still no spark. Research/troubleshooting in work.

[Chainsaw]

The Sniper isn’t getting an RPM signal which it requires to make spark confirmed by both the handheld Sniper monitor and the CD box (amber light). The tach may not be getting a signal either. The Sniper brown wire is connected to the purple tach coil wire as I gleaned (correctly or incorrectly) from other build posts. Sniper monitor is reading the other sensors. Troubleshooting the wiring configuration, but if anyone has any ideas, sing out.

[Chainsaw]

So, I think I had a wiring problem with the Hyperspark set up, so I've reverted to the original Blueprint set up to get the car running and then I'll sort out the Hyperspark situation later in this car's life. However, we still couldn't check the static timing. The coil is firing (timing light triggering), but I'm not getting enough current in the spark plug wire to triggers the timing light. Timing is close (according to the BPE chisel marks.) I did continuity checks on the wiring to the distributor and all good there. We moved wires around, rechecked TDC and #1 location, etc. I figure there's something simple that I've missed, but can't sort it out.
FYI: This is a BPE 306 with Holley Sniper EFI.

[Chainsaw]

Sooo, me and a couple of other nearby FFR owners (1 built, 1 in work) did a significant amount of trouble shooting and still couldn’t get fire from the distributor. Coil is firing, so we shorted the #1 plug wire from the distributor to ground and got no spark. We then jumpered the coil straight to #1 plug and it triggered the timing light. I called Holley and talked to them about the symptoms and our troubleshooting and Holley said my distributor is bad. I’ll call BPE tomorrow and see what I need to do, either get a replacement electronics module or if I need to swap the entire unit.

I did get my seats located and mounted and finished my driver’s side headrest. Ready to install some/most of the carpet now. I also almost figured out my parasitic draw that’s killed 2 batteries already. It was either my Hyperspark wiring (now disconnected) or my fuel level sensor (reading full when key off, but battery connected). I’ll sort that out later.

Just trying to keep some forward progress, no matter how slow.

[Chainsaw]

I did all the testing recommended by BPE and them some. I appeared to have spark at the ends of the spark plug wires, but it still wasn't triggering the timing light and I couldn't check the start timing. Soooo, I finally had enough and just stuck the fuel pump relay back in and tried to start the car. Lo and behold, it did start, but I could only get it to run 2-3 seconds before it died. I could keep the car running if I gave it throttle, but it was running rough regardless. I ran out of time for the day, but I'll try to clear the learning memory and start the process over. I suspect the idle air setting off, but I'll see what I can find out tomorrow. I might call BPE back for additional insights.

[Chainsaw]

First start 7/20/2023. Cleared the Sniper log memory per a suggestion from my Cobra friend Jeff down the street. Fired up after redoing the Sniper Wizard. Still rough and high idle, but running. As others have noted, it’s LOUD. I’l get a video later.

[cnutting]

Congrats!

And yes, surprisingly loud.

[Chainsaw]

Finally this clip of the first start uploaded to YouTube.

[Chainsaw]

And the second start video, a longer clip. The engine is missing a little. I need to sort that out.

[Zach Bohn]

Sounds great!

[Chainsaw]

Slow going on the car as it's been crazy busy with family and consulting work as well as the 110F+ heat indexes we're having here in North FL. I did get some things done though.

Had a scare last week as the car wouldn't start (again.) However, I was able to get it started yesterday and had 3ea 5 minute runs on it. I think I might have been having an EMI issue as the yellow Sniper wire to the coil negative was right next to or touching my alternator. So, I moved it away as far as I could and then wrapped aluminum tape around the wire for that belt-n-suspenders vibe. Not sure which one worked, but work it did. Engine was still running rough, so I fiddled with the timing a little and things smoothed out a fair amount.

Fixed another fuel leak and coolant seepage I had discovered. I still need to tighten up the 2x plugs in the remote oil filter adapter on the block. Getting a fair amount of seepage from those. It is going to take some finagling to get a hex key in there as it's really crowded in that area. I also have a small oil leak coming from my kluged oil temp sensor plumbing, but at least the thing does read oil temp. I might have another fuel leak at the rear of the car, but I didn't see the drip spot soon enough to verify where the leak was from. After initially working, the H20 temp gauge quit during the 2nd run yesterday.

I also set the ride height set (for the first time), 4" in the front and 4.5" in the rear. After I get to the go-kart phase, I'll repeat.

I'll get back to carpet, dash support, and seat installations next week, as well as the required fixes and troubleshoot for the above items.

[Chainsaw]

Carpet installed and seat brackets mounted. Working through some head rest, tunnel cover, and dash support fitment issues. Developing plan for cubby door build. I'll need to start the rough alignment soon as well. Very close to first go-kart run, I think. It's been so dang hot lately, that it's tough to spend much time in the garage.

[Chainsaw]

Some interior shots. I really need to get the rough alignment done so I can go karting in the neighborhood and terrorize everyone.
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[Vspeeds]

Nice work. Love the first start videos

[Chainsaw]

Rear alignment done. On the the front end alignment. I imagine I’ll need to check the tracking after I get the front set (and do it all again). Also, much thanks to Jeff B down the street for the use of his Longacre digital camber/caster gauge.

I also need to bleed the cooling system again/better. Coolant is getting pretty dang hot after a 5 minute idle session even with the fan running.

[Chainsaw]

Front end alignment completed as best I can do it for now. Working on the trunk carpet and seat belts. I'm considering switching to a cam-loc belt system. We'll see.

Will get the suspension joints greased up, if they're not already done, and will bleed the cooling system. Time to get the go-kart session going.

Even as loud as it is, I'm starting to get used to the sound of this thing as I continue to run it. (I do have hear plugs in most of time.) I did order the Car Chemistry inserts as I'm sure Mrs. Chainsaw will ultimately have a say on this topic.

[Chainsaw]

Finished out the carpet installation in the trunk. Rather than bleed the coolant system now and redo it after I reposition the radiator angle for the 289, I went straight to the radiator reposition. Drained most of the fluid out and raised the bottom of the radiator as far as I could. I think it's not high enough yet, but I need to drop the front of the car back down to check it. Seems about 45 deg vs the 40-41 that I need. The Breeze lower radiator support won't shift any higher with the current holes in the 1" tubing. My desire is to get the placement close to where it needs to be while leaving some adjustability for when I get the body on and nose panels installed.
Lower radiator mount .jpgradiator position front view.jpg
2 questions for those that have done this.
1) Do I need to reposition the Breeze lower support holes to allow the support to come higher?
2) Do I also need to reposition the upper mount to the back side of the horizontal 1" tube?

[cnutting]

The way I did it was mount the breeze tab on top of the 3/4 tube so that it would lift it up a bit. I have yet to reinstall my lower mount since everything is packed in so tightly. You may need a longer length elbow to make the bottom connection.

[Chainsaw]

Thanks for the upper tab input. That will certainly help some. I will def need a longer lower elbow. I think I'll have to adjust/trim some of the upper stuff as well.

[Chainsaw]

I've been working a lot, so it's been hit or miss on getting anything done on the car. I did the the radiator angle redone which required some modifications to the Breeze lower radiator mount. I'm not sure how it's going to work once the body is on and I have to fit the other sheet metal in there. I then put the shoulder belts in because I was bored one day.
cockpit w belts.jpg

I also added a flex hose for the lower radiator connection and attempted to bleed the air out of the cooling system using a no-spill funnel. I'm still not sure I got that done right, but no more bubbling and it wouldn't take any more fluid.
Lower radiator flex hose connection.jpg

I then got the LeMans gas cap in approximately the right position which required some modification to the back of the Breeze cubby wall. I may make a patch piece to put over the tube to close up the hole in the cubby wall a better. I also got most of the carpet in the trunk completed and added the bulb seals in a few places.
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Lastly, yesterday I did a first movement test of the car in prep for my first "around the neighborhood" go-kart test, which I hope to do today or tomorrow. It wasn't much, but I wanted some assurance I could get the car back into the garage on it's own. A small step, but I was still pretty stoked.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/YgwYHFuPIFg

Of note, as you can see in the video, the front turn signals come on when I brake. Sorting out why nothing was working on the tail lights was already on my list and now I have another piece of data. Also of note, when I actuate the turn signals, the interior indicators flash correctly, but both front turn signals flash. I'll probably have to pull the dash again to do some troubleshooting as there's too much going on in there to track the wiring with the dash on. With the front/rear harnesses already wired up, it's a bit baffling that the brake light signal is going to the front instead of the rear. Hopefully, this is all because I was stupid and hooked something up incorrectly in the harness and will be an easy fix.

[Chainsaw]

Well, it's done. Big milestone, but scads of work still to do. Lots of wires to bundle up/tie down (like the radiator fan wires hanging down in the first video.)
Part 1

[Chainsaw]

Part 2: