Go kart stage! But front wheels at 10 degree camber angle?
So, a big day. Finally put the car on the ground and drove it out of the garage. Awesome!
I figured the wheels would settle square when it was off the jacks, but that didn’t happen. They are each sitting with a 10 degree negative camber in the fronts. Can’t see how any of control arm adjustments will fix something that large. Wondering if I have a part backwards, or perhaps if I even the right control arms? Trying to figure out what I did wrong.
I've added some photos to the post. Any ideas would be appreciated!
Did you make sure the knuckle labeled right went on the left and vice versa? Otherwise, nothing glaring to me. Front upper control arm is showing more threads than I recall seeing on my build to get the rough distance described in the manual
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Looks like pin drive lower control arms to me as well. Look at the length of those arms compared to these standard length ones from my 20th Anniversary build. Unless you're trying to do a pin drive build. In which case there are concerns with the spindles and the attachment location of the upper control arms as others have pointed out.
Last edited by edwardb; 01-08-2023 at 07:34 AM.
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You have pin drive lower arms as indicated by the gusset location (outside of the “V” rather than inside). Pin drive requires the use of SN95 spindles along with the unique spindle adapter and mounting the upper arms on the horizontal mounts. Long story short, if your plan is to have pin drive width you’ll need different spindles and the proper adapter—if your plan is not for pin drive width you’ll need to change your lowers to standard width.
Jeff
Last edited by Jeff Kleiner; 01-08-2023 at 11:12 AM.
Thank you everyone -- I really appreciate your help in diagnosing what's going on here. A I think that has to be the issue. In short, my goal here is for a stock build. I have the stock FFR Halibrand replica 15" wheels, and am not even sure what a pin drive wheel IS in the first place. So anything to do with a pin drive wheel is not in the plans, and it was either an error in (A) ordering or (B) fulfilling the kit. I will place a call to FFR when they open this week and figure out the best next steps to get the correct lower control arms.
At least I know what's up with this now. Thanks again for your help and advice everyone!
Thank you everyone -- I really appreciate your help in diagnosing what's going on here. A I think that has to be the issue. In short, my goal here is for a stock build. I have the stock FFR Halibrand replica 15" wheels, and am not even sure what a pin drive wheel IS in the first place. So anything to do with a pin drive wheel is not in the plans, and it was either an error in (A) ordering or (B) fulfilling the kit. I will place a call to FFR when they open this week and figure out the best next steps to get the correct lower control arms.
At least I know what's up with this now. Thanks again for your help and advice everyone!
Perhaps the wrong LCA is part of why it is set like that, but compared to my front Koni shock set up, it looks to me like your adjustable spring collar needs to be raised up the threads a considerable amount. That should lower the chassis, and help reduce the camber.
From the grease fitting in the ball joint to the center of the pivot bolt is 13 3/4" on a pin drive control arm.
Guys,
You don’t even have to measure to identify a pin drive vs standard width lower control arm. Pin drive has the gusset from the tubes to the bushing sleeve on the outside of the “V”; standard width has the gusset inside of the “V”. Easy to spot.
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Originally Posted by FirstFactoryFive
