Coyote Pedal Mount Mod - Slot Top Hole and Grind Right Side?

[32J]

Okay, I've read as many posts as I could find on modifying the Coyote pedal so that it can be 1) installed through the labyrinth of steel, and 2) not interfere with the drive shaft when installed on the provided mounting plate. I've done all that and I still have the top bolt ear of the pedal interfering / rubbing the steering shaft. Just wondering if anyone has (or has heard of) someone trying the following:

1) Slotting the top hole of the mount,
2) Grinding the right side of the mount (and shaving / sanding / grinding excess plastic from the right side of the pedal), and
3) Rotating the mount and pedal CW in order to get maybe an extra 1/16 or 1/8 clearance between the bolt ear and the drive shaft.

Accelerator Pedal Mount Mode.jpg

I also want to make sure that the wiring can still clip into the top of the pedal without hitting the vertical web of the pedal box.

Thanks!

[toadster]

I had to trim a TON off both sides to make it fit... what I thought would be 20 minutes, took about 2.5 hours

IMG_4715.jpg IMG_4710.jpg

[32J]

I did all that trimming and I'm still getting interference with the steering shaft. I don't want to shave into the plastic directly underneath the bolt head in the pedal mounting ear. That's why I'm thinking about slotting the top hole of the mounting plate instead, to all me to rotate the entire assembly clockwise a few degrees, in order to increase the clearance between the pedal ear and the drive shaft. Just hoping someone else may have tried this before I start.

Thanks.

[toadster]

I also had to pretty much grind down ALL the webbing on the right side till it was perfectly smooth
it was only at that point that I could get the bolt holes to align and clear the shaft, maybe a piece of paper could slide in between but that's about it

[32J]

I still had to take a small rasp and shave off a a bit of the bolt, just to be certain!

Carbon fiber shells and new cars is great, but if FFR really wanted to impress me (more).... come up with a better solution for the Coyote pedal set-up. Can't complain too much, though, as I'm still enjoying the build.

[OB6]

Are there any aftermarket drive-by-wire pedal solutions? Not necessarily for FFR, but something that fits better? Maybe Lokar? Guessing someone would have already used one if something existed.

[Anonymoose]

As someone about to start a coyote build in a week or so, what other things should I look out for? Are there any good guides for a coyote build and the issues like that that will come up?

[32J]

It would make a good thread, for sure. But likely it should be created by someone who has done a non-Coyote build and a Coyote build. My Coyote build is my first go at a FFR Roadster, so my point of view is limited.

[Doenut]

I also had to pretty much grind down ALL the webbing on the right side till it was perfectly smooth
it was only at that point that I could get the bolt holes to align and clear the shaft, maybe a piece of paper could slide in between but that's about it

All the webbing on mine is gone as well
But I was able to make it works

[32J]

Here's a short list, which I'm sure will continue to grow:

1) Accelerator pedal and pedal mount mods
2) Disconnect steering shaft at power steering rack before installing motor
3) Install starter and power steering kit to motor before dropping into engine bay
4) Test fit the long-tube headers onto the motor before you start the engine install
5) Leave long-tube headers off, but can install / bolt on while on hoist but only a 1-2 inches above mounting plates (to make sure tubes go under 3/4" tubes)
6) Coyote Gen 3 needs a 340 LPH pump that deliver 60 psi to the regulator. The 5/16" hard lines and fittings that come in the kit are insufficient. You'll need to source your own AN 6 (3/8") hose and / or hard line, with corresponding fittings. You can save yourself some time now by working it all out and ordering the parts.

[Anonymoose]

Here's a short list, which I'm sure will continue to grow:

1) Accelerator pedal and pedal mount mods
2) Disconnect steering shaft at power steering rack before installing motor
3) Install starter and power steering kit to motor before dropping into engine bay
4) Test fit the long-tube headers onto the motor before you start the engine install
5) Leave long-tube headers off, but can install / bolt on while on hoist but only a 1-2 inches above mounting plates (to make sure tubes go under 3/4" tubes)
6) Coyote Gen 3 needs a 340 LPH pump that deliver 60 psi to the regulator. The 5/16" hard lines and fittings that come in the kit are insufficient. You'll need to source your own AN 6 (3/8") hose and / or hard line, with corresponding fittings. You can save yourself some time now by working it all out and ordering the parts.

Thank you for the list! I will start looking into these.

[32J]

By the way, I have the original Factory Five chrome side exhaust pipes for sale, if you're interested.

[toadster]

Here's a short list, which I'm sure will continue to grow:

1) Accelerator pedal and pedal mount mods
2) Disconnect steering shaft at power steering rack before installing motor
3) Install starter and power steering kit to motor before dropping into engine bay
4) Test fit the long-tube headers onto the motor before you start the engine install
5) Leave long-tube headers off, but can install / bolt on while on hoist but only a 1-2 inches above mounting plates (to make sure tubes go under 3/4" tubes)
6) Coyote Gen 3 needs a 340 LPH pump that deliver 60 psi to the regulator. The 5/16" hard lines and fittings that come in the kit are insufficient. You'll need to source your own AN 6 (3/8") hose and / or hard line, with corresponding fittings. You can save yourself some time now by working it all out and ordering the parts.

btw - I've read that you should install the starter AFTER you put the engine into the car as it will give you more space around the motor mounts

[ADI]

This is what I did to mine...
Used the supplied FF5 bracket, flattened it out and cut some top 90 degree bend of it
Then installed in the position showed below:


Then trimmed the right side off:
Looks like this:

I did not wanted to mess (much more) with the pedal, so I also installed a long screw (sideways) to prevent it moving right to left when pressing it,

also used the bottom hole on the original bracket to install a flat-out stopper.

[Tooth]

My build starts sometime in July. I'm taking notes.