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Thread: Battery location doubts

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    The front battery box is a great option, but remember it's a smaller battery. Suggest you add a battery tender to keep the charge up if it's going to sit for an extended time.
    I recommend a battery tender no matter what battery you have. It will extend the life.
    Last edited by CaptB; 04-05-2022 at 11:38 AM.
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  3. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by zee View Post
    I don't know how I missed that. That battery is so small, it can go anywhere!

    I remember you posting once that you put the battery on top of the pax footbox. Do you have a picture? Thanks.
    Here is one without the body on


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  5. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by rich grsc View Post
    You guys can spend all you want, but my Odyssey PC 680 is 6 yrs old has never needed maintenance or charging. It's only $173. Why would you want to spend up to a grand?
    But the expensive ones are faster!

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  7. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Avalanche325 View Post
    But the expensive ones are faster!
    I'm sure you believe that, as your wallet is so much lighter.
    Mrk III, 331 stroker, Borla stack injection, T5, 3:55 IRS, Power steering and brakes. Kleiner body & paint

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  9. #45
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    When I build mine I will move the battery to the engine compartment. At the build school in February another student connected the cables to the wrong terminals, he could not see the top of the battery under the body. Fried the fuel injection. We did not have a car that could drive at the end of the class.

  10. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by rich grsc View Post
    You guys can spend all you want, but my Odyssey PC 680 is 6 yrs old has never needed maintenance or charging. It's only $173. Why would you want to spend up to a grand?
    Nobody has suggested a $1k battery

  11. #47
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    I have the FFMetal box that was mounted in the center of the trunk with a 4 link. Just moved the battery box today so I could mount the 3 link frame in position. This was all done with the car complete and I was able to get my #34 battery in. I still need to do an aluminum patch but it is all covered with carpet so it will not be seen. I like the trunk mount for several reason; it’s in the trunk, it’s hidden and it’s not under my hood. Did I mention, I don’t want my battery under the hood?

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  13. #48

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    Has anyone done a battery box behind the rear wheel on the driver's side of an MK4? There is a a lot of real estate there for a battery, extra storage, etc. As I am contemplating my build, I am envious of this space and making it useful.
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  14. #49
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    There is a guy out in So Cal who does it. His first name is Frank I believe and if you go on to YouTube he is i.e. 427 Garage. I know he has done it on a MKIII, I assume he also does a MKIV.
    MK IV Base Kit #9370 w/ FFR Lower Control Arms, donor 1996 Cobra 4.6 L DOHC; stage 2 Comp Cams, Manley forged Pistons & Rods, IMRC Delete Plates, T-45 transmission HD extra build w/ single disconnect reverse mod, 3-link w/ Koni Coil Overs 3:73 rear end. Painted and re-assembled Jan 2022.

  15. #50
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    Here is how I did my dropped trunk. Made the panels myself. It is a VERY worthwhile change.
    Trunk 1.jpg
    Trunk2.jpg
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  16. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ted G View Post
    Has anyone done a battery box behind the rear wheel on the driver's side of an MK4? There is a a lot of real estate there for a battery, extra storage, etc. As I am contemplating my build, I am envious of this space and making it useful.
    https://youtu.be/rr_Z2N0ErQk?t=152

    This video will start at the right point. Even if not doing the battery box there, it's very useful to add it as an extra storage for small items.
    Complete novice who doesn't know what he's doing.
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  17. #52
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    Just to offer a point that I haven't seen discussed.

    Battery weight and placement might matter to you. Many talk about corner balance and adjusting coilovers to adjust the balance. A good plan from what I've seen. Moving a 40# battery around will change things, good or bad that's up to you and your scales to determine. Perhaps not real important on a street car but more important on a track car.

    In a past life and different car the battery was on the driver's side behind the rear wheel. Corner balance wasn't great, way heavy to the left rear. We pulled the battery and placed it over the passenger side headers about 10" in from the outer body. Most of the corner balance issues were resolved or got significantly better. For those cars the left rear was the heavy point, the front right the light. All this was checked on properly used scales.

    Another thought about lightweight batteries is securing Mass. It's a whole lot easier to tie down a smaller / lighter item than a larger / heavier piece. I've seen what a 40# battery does in an instantaneous stop.

    BTW, I'm regrouping and looking at the ATX20-HD as an option as Hooper has mentioned. Just over 5# and $399 MSRP. Opens up options for placement while reducing concerns for balance.
    https://antigravitybatteries.com/pro...-oem/atx20-hd/

    Jim
    2016 Mk4 Challenge Car, IRS, 3.31 Torsen, RDI Aluminum 427w, AFR 225s, Vic Jr. ProSystems 780 HP, TKO-600 w/Liberty mods. Forward cage. Levy 6/4 piston Wilwoods. Not completed yet, will be a streetable track car.
    2004 Superformance MkIII #1855, 2007 Superformance MkIII #2584 purchased in 2012 both sold.

  18. #53
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    Another happy customer using the FF metal drop battery mod. It is tucked away and opens up the trunk.

    FFR MK4 Roadster (9945) complete kit, delivered 12/4/2020, First start and go kart 5/7/2021. Legal 8/14/2021, Paint finished 7/18/2022 (Viking Blue). 347BPE CI, TKO600, Moser 8.8 3link 3.55, Halibrand 17x9 17x10.5, power steering. Carbon Fiber Dash. Carbon Fiber trans tunnel, adjustable Kirkey Lowback Vintage seats, Vintage gauges, RT drop trunk mod, FFmetal drop battery mod and trans tunnel, Forte front sway bar. Forte mechanical throttle linkage, RT gas pedal. www.covespringsfarm.com

  19. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaulRSchmidt View Post
    Ah, fair point. I had been thinking of fatigue, not an accident.

    If I decide I don’t need a heater (TX), the point becomes moot, as I’ll install a glove box in the traditional location.
    Do it all! Heater+Glove Box+Wipers+Breeze Cubby in the back, all with a Coyote. It'll fit with a little creativity.
    MK4 Complete Kit #10315 / Coyote G3 / TKX / 427 HardTop
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  21. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeffP View Post
    Do it all! Heater+Glove Box+Wipers+Breeze Cubby in the back, all with a Coyote. It'll fit with a little creativity.
    Very nice!! Where is the glovebox from?
    Complete novice who doesn't know what he's doing.
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  22. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by I want a coupe View Post
    When I build mine I will move the battery to the engine compartment. At the build school in February another student connected the cables to the wrong terminals, he could not see the top of the battery under the body. Fried the fuel injection. We did not have a car that could drive at the end of the class.
    You have to make an access panel to the battery. Use rivenuts. Who would put a permanent panel over a battery box?
    FFR Roadster Delivered 9/16/21
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  23. #57
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    I don’t think anyone said they put a permanent panel over a battery box or at least I didn’t read it that way. Mine has a cover over it with screws to have access to the battery.
    MK IV Base Kit #9370 w/ FFR Lower Control Arms, donor 1996 Cobra 4.6 L DOHC; stage 2 Comp Cams, Manley forged Pistons & Rods, IMRC Delete Plates, T-45 transmission HD extra build w/ single disconnect reverse mod, 3-link w/ Koni Coil Overs 3:73 rear end. Painted and re-assembled Jan 2022.

  24. #58
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    I was just responding to someone's comment:

    "At the build school in February another student connected the cables to the wrong terminals, he could not see the top of the battery under the body."

    No harm, no foul, just responding to what I had read, perhaps it was different than how I read it :-)
    FFR Roadster Delivered 9/16/21
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  25. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by swwebb View Post
    Until you need to replace the battery!!
    I have the FFmetal battery box in my MK2 IRS build. I replaced the battery very easily, no struggle at all.

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  27. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by zee View Post
    Very nice!! Where is the glovebox from?
    Its the prefab vinyl dash w/glove box from ff.
    MK4 Complete Kit #10315 / Coyote G3 / TKX / 427 HardTop
    Build Thread Production Date: 2/26/22, Registered 5/19/22, Graduated 3/1/2023

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  29. #61
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    All,
    Thanks for the great responses to this post. I decided to fabricate my own drop box in the rear similar to some of what was shown here.

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  31. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by rich grsc View Post
    I'm sure you believe that, as your wallet is so much lighter.
    It's all about power to weight ratio!

  32. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by I want a coupe View Post
    When I build mine I will move the battery to the engine compartment. At the build school in February another student connected the cables to the wrong terminals, he could not see the top of the battery under the body. Fried the fuel injection. We did not have a car that could drive at the end of the class.
    They didn't think to look at the battery first? Or have a mirror, or a phone to have a look?

  33. #64
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    I have the Breeze battery mount (https://www.breezeautomotive.com/sho...-1-4-roadster/). It's a well-made part and I highly recommend it.

    I fabbed a spare tire mount for my trunk (for a donut spare), so putting the battery below the trunk floor was no bueno for me.

    David
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  34. #65
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    Mrk III, 331 stroker, Borla stack injection, T5, 3:55 IRS, Power steering and brakes. Kleiner body & paint

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  36. #66
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    For those of you using the Breeze kit, the site says it’s made to fit MK 3 and newer. Anyone see any issues with it fitting a MK II?

  37. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ted G View Post
    Has anyone done a battery box behind the rear wheel on the driver's side of an MK4? There is a a lot of real estate there for a battery, extra storage, etc. As I am contemplating my build, I am envious of this space and making it useful.
    Mine is behind the rear wheel on the passenger side. Plenty of room there too.
    MK3 Challenge Car, Boss 347, Sniper 2 EFI

  38. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ted G View Post
    Has anyone done a battery box behind the rear wheel on the driver's side of an MK4? There is a a lot of real estate there for a battery, extra storage, etc. As I am contemplating my build, I am envious of this space and making it useful.
    520 Speedworks did it in their salvage 427 build featured on YouTube.


  39. #69

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    Quote Originally Posted by Papa View Post
    520 Speedworks did it in their salvage 427 build featured on YouTube.
    No offence to Greg, but we've got him beat on the rear, fender mount battery by about 10 years. I'll see if I can dig up the original thread posted on the forum but here's a link to answer one of the questions about it on our fb page dated April of 2016. By far my favorite spot to mount a battery.

    https://www.facebook.com/IE427-89165...90926444277008

    Found it. August 2010

    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/new-b.../#post-2303541
    Last edited by i.e.427; 07-30-2022 at 10:52 PM.

  40. #70
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    I put mine up front. It’s clean, easy and very accessible.

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  41. #71

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    If using the FFmetal trunk mount kit with solid rear axle:

    I have the 289 kit with solid rear axle. I used the FFmetal kit and it initially interfered with the travel of the rear differential. FFmetal is an awesome, well built unit, but I had to modify it by raising it up 2 inches to clear the diff travel.
    build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-USRRC-vspeeds

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  42. #72

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    Quote Originally Posted by swwebb View Post
    Until you need to replace the battery!!
    FYI, that's what the big hole in the bottom of the box is for. Just put a 4x4 under the battery and use your floor jack to lift it up. Or enlist a friend to get underneath the back of the car and push up. In 17 years, I've removed my battery 3 times by myself and it just lifts right up and out - it's not easy, but totally worth it. The weight in the back in good, the space it frees up is great, I have remote battery terminals in the trunk so I can charge the battery. There's really no negative to having it back there.

    Tip: Leave the handle on the battery and use it to lift the battery out in 5-7 years.
    Last edited by Bill_VA; 08-01-2022 at 08:46 PM.
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  44. #73
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    X2 on Bills experience. To the naysayers It is an urban myth that the battery is difficult to remove. It really is time to move on.
    Mk.4 FFR supplied Right hand drive
    Received 12/2012 completed 12/2019
    Gen1 Coyote / TKO600 / IRS
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  45. #74
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    On the FFMetals box. Anyone happen to have a couple pictures of the clearances we are left with on the 3-link cross bar and diff cover when using this box?

  46. #75

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    There's not a ton of clearance, but just enough. I even had an aluminum rear diff cover. Never had an issue in 18 years.

    BTW, I own ffmetal.com. Ask me anything.

    100_0922.JPG100_0919.JPG
    Last edited by Bill_VA; 02-11-2025 at 01:26 PM.
    Non-donor - Engine Factory 351w/400hp - TKO500 - 3-Link - Cobra brakes - FFmetal - Wilwood pedals - FR500 wheels - NCPainter

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  47. #76
    That's not original!
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    Front mount battery

    battery box (1).jpg
    Unconventional.

  48. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill_VA View Post
    There's not a ton of clearance, but just enough. I even had an aluminum rear diff cover. Never had an issue in 18 years.

    BTW, I own ffmetal.com. Ask me anything.

    100_0922.JPG100_0919.JPG
    Nice
    I ordered it today I guess given how tight it is I didn’t think to ask if it will fit with the Ford GT500 finned cover?
    My setup is same as yours with the exception of the diff cover.
    Hopefully my finned cover does sit back any further than yours

    IMG_1789.jpg
    Last edited by Doc76; 02-12-2025 at 01:33 AM.

  49. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by I want a coupe View Post
    At the build school in February another student connected the cables to the wrong terminals
    I did that once, everything was fine except the horn sucked and the radio listened.
    My build thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...Roadster-Build

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  50. #79
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    My argument for a rear battery.
    1. These cars need all the weight in the rear that you can get.
    2. Batteries don't like heat.
    3. Engine compartment looks better without it.
    4. You will likely not need to touch the battery for 7 - 10 years, so it doesn't need to be very serviceable.
    5. If you do need to remove it, the FFmetals box has a hole in the bottom. Use a piece of wood and a jack and it pushes it up for easy removal.

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  52. #80
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    FF Metals box will not fit if you’re running a GT500 finned cover on a Ford 8.8 solid axle 3-link. It hits.

    I will add this is a super nice piece however and Id like to find a smaller battery that may allow me to notch the box and still use it. Very well made, worth the mod and changing a battery if there’s a sufficiently smaller one.

    Any suggestions on battery options would be appreciated.

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