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347 with Cobra dress kit
Hey y'all,
My carbureted Blueprint engine is getting here a month and a half earlier than the rest of my MK4 kit and that gave me time to consider something cosmetical that I had on the back of my mind. I've seen on several of the build threads, valve and air filter covers with the Cobra/Powered by Ford logo and I had just two questions:
1) Is this an easy thing to install/Is there a risk to untune the engine by doing this? I'm imagining not so much with the air filter lid but perhaps with the valve covers?
2) I'm seeing a wide variety of prices for these dress kits online, which I'm guessing speak to the quality of the part, or are they just swindling people? Any recommendations from someone who has done this replacement?
Thank you in advance!
Warm regards,
Fede
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PLATNUM Supporting Member
As long as they are for the type engine you have, you should have no problem. Here is what I bought from Summit and put on my Blueprint 347.
DC6B0579-BF93-4BB0-8756-2525D1EC8764_1_105_c.jpeg
16+ FFR kits and counting!
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Valve covers are easy. Just don't over-tighten the bolts or you may distort the cover and end up with an oil leak. I like the silicone gaskets. I think I paid $250 for the valve covers and air cleaner from BPE.
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Originally Posted by
Papa
Valve covers are easy. Just don't over-tighten the bolts or you may distort the cover and end up with an oil leak. I like the silicone gaskets. I think I paid $250 for the valve covers and air cleaner from BPE.
BluePrint sold you the kit? Interesting, when I placed my order they said they don't provide those parts but I thought I had seen previous builds that mentioned getting the covers from them. Perhaps they decided to not do that anymore.
Thanks for the tip with the silicone gaskets!
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Here are a couple things to watch for.
1. The "Cobra" valve covers are not a "tall" version, which is required for a lot of roller rockers. There are spacers that you can get that work great. Get good ones, don't cheap out. There are also thick gaskets if you just need a little space. You can easily check with some clay. DO NOT remove the baffles or you will have an endless mess. I modified my baffles to move them closer to the valve cover, which gave me enough clearance. However, that changes the air velocity / oil separating out of the air rate.....short version, it doesn't work well. I went with spacers and put the original baffles back in.
2. There are EFI and carb versions. Get the right ones.
My advice on the Cobra oval air cleaner:
1. The like to turn unless you put a rubber gasket on. There is one with a U channel that fits on the filter housing. Never moved since.
2. The stock filter is very short. Make sure that the filter lid is not sitting on the carb vent tubes. That happened to me an what a nightmare it was to figure out why my car would severely flood when warm. K&N and S&B make taller reusable filter elements. Those will also give you better air flow.
How's that for a couple easy bolt on parts?
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Originally Posted by
wallace18
Thanks for the picture and the store suggestion! Is your 347 fuel injected or carbureted? Lastly, do these look like the parts you ordered from Summit?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-9600-c302
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-6582-a
Making sure to pay attention to Avalanche's comments and be careful about clearing everything that needs to be cleared and not having moving parts.
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I have the cobra valve covers and filter from these guys.....
https://www.ansenvalvecovers.com/col...y-valve-covers
FFR MK4 Roadster (9945) complete kit, delivered 12/4/2020, First start and go kart 5/7/2021. Legal 8/14/2021, Paint finished 7/18/2022 (Viking Blue). 347BPE CI, TKO600, Moser 8.8 3link 3.55, Halibrand 17x9 17x10.5, power steering. Carbon Fiber Dash. Carbon Fiber trans tunnel, adjustable Kirkey Lowback Vintage seats, Vintage gauges, RT drop trunk mod, FFmetal drop battery mod and trans tunnel, Forte front sway bar. Forte mechanical throttle linkage, RT gas pedal.
www.covespringsfarm.com
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While those air cleaners look pretty cool, they may be very restrictive. I understand we are not pushing 600 hp with these engines but I went for performance over looks with my air cleaner.
There are a bunch of “air cleaner shoot outs“ on YouTube. This one I like and had me looking for a salad bowl around the house. LOL
https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x6...wAEFMNSEoQFShw
Mark
Gone but not forgotten. Mk1, Frame #1929 Complete restoration/upgrade.
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Originally Posted by
mburger
While those air cleaners look pretty cool, they may be very restrictive. I understand we are not pushing 600 hp with these engines but I went for performance over looks with my air cleaner.
There are a bunch of “air cleaner shoot outs“ on YouTube. This one I like and had me looking for a salad bowl around the house. LOL
https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x6...wAEFMNSEoQFShw
Nice video. And while it demonstrates some filters flow better than others, it also shows that all the filters are about the same up to 87% of maximum horsepower. On the test engine, you're talking 5700-5800rpm.
I can see the importance of this metric in a pure race application---the test engine makes 750, and 87% is 650hrspers, and that's a substantial difference at high rpms. But for a "normal" street application of under 450hrspers where sustained high-rpm service is fairly rare, I would be surprised if the difference can even be detected on the butt dyno.
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Agreed. It’s interesting and somewhat entertaining. That’s why I say we’re not pushing that many horses. I think in the video they eluded to what you just said., but you said it better.
Mark
Gone but not forgotten. Mk1, Frame #1929 Complete restoration/upgrade.
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Originally Posted by
Avalanche325
Here are a couple things to watch for.
1. The "Cobra" valve covers are not a "tall" version, which is required for a lot of roller rockers. There are spacers that you can get that work great. Get good ones, don't cheap out. There are also thick gaskets if you just need a little space. You can easily check with some clay. DO NOT remove the baffles or you will have an endless mess. I modified my baffles to move them closer to the valve cover, which gave me enough clearance. However, that changes the air velocity / oil separating out of the air rate.....short version, it doesn't work well. I went with spacers and put the original baffles back in.
2. There are EFI and carb versions. Get the right ones.
My advice on the Cobra oval air cleaner:
1. The like to turn unless you put a rubber gasket on. There is one with a U channel that fits on the filter housing. Never moved since.
2. The stock filter is very short. Make sure that the filter lid is not sitting on the carb vent tubes. That happened to me an what a nightmare it was to figure out why my car would severely flood when warm. K&N and S&B make taller reusable filter elements. Those will also give you better air flow.
How's that for a couple easy bolt on parts?
I don't suppose you have the part numbers for those taller washable/reusable filters? Trying to identify these filters has been challenging for me. Also, has anyone here ever experienced any problems with the lower filter pan making contact with the distributor wires? Thanks and . . .
Nate Johnson
Mark I 302 from a 92 Mustang GT 650 CFM Carb 99 GT Solid Axle with 3:27
"If you don't take the time to do it right, you'll make the time to do it over." - Dad
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Originally Posted by
Avalanche325
Here are a couple things to watch for.
My advice on the Cobra oval air cleaner:
1. The like to turn unless you put a rubber gasket on. There is one with a U channel that fits on the filter housing. Never moved since.
Avalanche325 - can you elaborate on the rubber gasket source? I have the same air cleaner, and it does indeed LOVE to rotate!
Thanks,
Steve
Steve
FFR #8305; IRS, 347; T5 Trans; EFI, 3.27 Rear; 17x9" Front; 17x10.5" Rear
Paint - Ford Magnetic Metallic Gray (J7) with Black Stripes; Painted by "da Bat"
Complete Kit Delivered 05/15/2014; Titled and Registered 4/14/2017 as a 1965!!
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