25th MKIV #9772 Build NOR*CAL: new vanity plate

[toadster]

Hey Todd, great info. Quick question (John George's thread on ABS has some dead pics): For the GT500 ABS you can use the tone ring that's already mounted on the SN95 hubs (but maybe with some different sensors) and then use .... whatever magic magnets comes on the CV axles in the back with the sensor you called out? Or is there a seperate tone ring you need to separately mount to those hubs?

Thanks!

Juan

Hey Juan - I have my parts list on my site https://cobradreams.com/2020/04/12/abs-planning/
I'm pretty sure I have all the pics from johngeorge's site as well

As far as sensors I went with modified Russ Thompson brackets with Motocraft BRAB-290 for the SN95 hubs,
and the rear IRS I believe will use sensors that will work with the built in IRS hub Motorcraft BRAB-406

today I was pretty stoked to actually get some brake lines setup on the car!!

The Eastwood Brake Flaring tool is amazingly simple once you figure out the steps, I'm using Ni-Copp for brake lines and it's super flexible!

IMG_2426.jpg
one tip, and I swore I wouldn't screw it up - but use a bit of tape to keep you flare nut at the end of the line,
this way when you bend your lines you don't accidentally trap the nut behind a bend... yep, did it already! LOL
IMG_2428.jpg

I took Edwardb's advice and used the Rigid 3/6" tubing bender - it works fantastically!
IMG_2427.jpg IMG_2429.jpg

with ABS, I have to run 2 feeds to the HCU, then spider out from there to each wheel... got the two feed lines setup today
IMG_2430.jpg IMG_2431.jpg

[johnpinetree]

Brilliant! Yeah, I have poked around your blog some - didn't realize those were the same pics, that's great. One thing that's not super obvious to me is how the sensors get mounted up for the rear hubs. Also, what motivated the copper lines? Apart from having to flare umpteen connectors and saving yourself carpet tunnel?

[toadster]

Brilliant! Yeah, I have poked around your blog some - didn't realize those were the same pics, that's great. One thing that's not super obvious to me is how the sensors get mounted up for the rear hubs. Also, what motivated the copper lines? Apart from having to flare umpteen connectors and saving yourself carpal tunnel?

the sensors drop into the hub from the top and secure with a screw see my pics here: https://cobradreams.com/2020/07/10/c...odds-and-ends/

the NiCopp lines are recommended by many folks, they're much softer and easier to form - you can get a 25ft coil for about $20-25
25 Feet of 3/16 Inch (4.75 mm) Copper Nickel Brake Line


I still have vspeeds tubing straightener! Don't worry Eddie - I got you!

[toadster]

my son stopped by tonight, it's been a while since he's been busy - but always worth the time spent!
he had grand dreams of finishing all 4 of the ABS lines tonight in 2 hours, but he realized (like I already have) that brake lines are not easy for the OCD folk

here's our work over 2 hours...
IMG_2440.jpg

LOL yes, the driver's side brake line which is the shortest run of them all, about 34 in., 9 bends and 2 perfectly crimped ends (not forgetting the nuts!)
it was a one-and-done moment, we didn't falter - but we really shouldn't work in this field as it would be a real pity for the garage paying us for this slow of work LOL

we did some re-configuring of the lines from the HCU - it can be quite a mess given there are 6 lines (2 inputs, 4 outputs)

from this angle it's not the prettiest layout, but no lines are touching, rubbing, and they all have clearance where they need it!
IMG_2442.jpg

yesterday I did run the passenger side line - I added some gravel guard since it was a pretty straight run and may get some rocks from inside the wheel well
IMG_2437.jpg

next are the 2 long runs to the rear... should be a challenge for sure, our goal is to do ZERO unions but that's a lofty goal...

also, first hole in the carbon fiber dash (eek!)
64022502513__033ABFE4-6C14-4930-BB3B-E744717E01C1.jpg

still determining the layout, but going for comp style

[johnpinetree]

Looking pretty slick! The OCD comment is hilarious. I wonder if you took a straw poll of who fits into that category from this forum where you'd land...

[toadster]

Looking pretty slick! The OCD comment is hilarious. I wonder if you took a straw poll of who fits into that category from this forum where you'd land...

Thanks! oh I'm sure there are PLENTY who fit that category

[johnpinetree]

Hey, so still in the rabbit hole. After doing some digging it looks like you were also looking into traction control? Did you ever dig up any more info or call any experts to see what it would take with this system?

[toadster]

Hey, so still in the rabbit hole. After doing some digging it looks like you were also looking into traction control? Did you ever dig up any more info or call any experts to see what it would take with this system?

I've been looking at this setup, but at the time he didn't have any way to interface with the Ford Perf ECU https://moretraction.com/
It's something that can be done later, not cheap - but cheaper than going sideways and crashing

[johnpinetree]

I'm going to be owing you a number of beers my friend, for doing all this heavy lifting. Is that where Ford Perf pointed you, or did you find that on your own? Worried about aftermarket and the VVT... Also, it seems like if you've got traction control.... launch control can't be that far off?

[toadster]

I'm going to be owing you a number of beers my friend, for doing all this heavy lifting. Is that where Ford Perf pointed you, or did you find that on your own? Worried about aftermarket and the VVT... Also, it seems like if you've got traction control.... launch control can't be that far off?

ah its not me, it's this whole forum! I found the TCU stuff on my own, they're very popular with the aftermarket crowd if you want to spend the $$.
Just need more time to investigate to see if it will (or can) work with the Coyote ECU

[toadster]

finally got the rear runs done for the ABS, 2 sections for each - didn't turn out too bad

lots of folks ask about the NiCopp tubing - here's a link to the stuff I used from The Stop Shop https://amzn.to/32JnvUM


my magical way of measuring... I lay out some $4.99 home depot rope along the run and bends, then measure the distance - it works VERY well to determine the length of brake line that I need to cut. Perfect every time!
IMG_2464.jpg

the farthest run... rear passenger, this was the most difficult one to be honest
IMG_2470.jpg

driver side was super short - I used some leftover tubing from a prior mistake
IMG_2469.jpg

long run from passenger side, I used 3/8" gravel guard to protect the line - it's a bit large, but wanted to use it since I had it on the shelf

IMG_2461.jpg IMG_2462.jpg turned out pretty well - gotta keep it really high on the 4" tube since a 2nd run has to happen

2nd run just under the first - making sure to keep clear of the 4" tube bottom
IMG_2468.jpg IMG_2466.jpg

final setup at the HCU
IMG_2465.jpg

woo! honestly, it's sad, now I'm done with brake lines... no wonder guys do multiple builds!!!
still have to test the system, but will have to wait for the ECU as it has to bleed the ABS system through the OBD port

Here's the tool that I'll get to do the ABS bleed: Autel MaxiAP AP200C Wireless OBDII Scan Tool

[toadster]

a few updates today... first, I got to run into about 10 local Cobra guys at Cars & Coffee, I can't believe I didn't take any pics!!! Was great to see everyone! and some new cars were out too!

After reading a different thread about the Whitby power brake setup, I looked at my setup and wondered if my inlets to the master cylinder would leak air and just to seal things up I ordered the Billet Aluminum Master Cylinder Nipples from Lodestone Billetworks
such simple parts, but you need the right tools to build these... I bet guys with CNC or lathe could do these quickly, but for $30 I can't buy a CNC machine (haha!)

IMG_2471.jpg

I removed my plastic inlet barbs and had to figure out how to seat these suckers! They're very VERY tight so I know there won't be any leaking!
I couldn't just push them into the rubber grommets, so I pulled the rubber and mounted on the nipple - STILL couldn't get it on - so I grabbed a clamp and slowly popped them into place
IMG_2476.jpg IMG_2477.jpg IMG_2478.jpg

I used these 90-degree brass fittings from Amazon with 1/8" NPT to 3/8" hose barb connection
Brass Hose Barb Fitting, 90 Degree Male Elbow, 3/8" Hose ID x 1/8" NPT Male, 2pcs

Next up was to seal the path for the 3/8" hoses into the firewall. I found this Seals-It SGS35BL Split Grommet Seal that allows a specialized cut to keep it closer than an open-hole grommet
IMG_2479.jpg IMG_2480.jpg
and the final result, I can fidget with the hole and hoses a bit to seal it up now versus before when it was about 2" of open air
IMG_2481.jpg

hopefully I'm done with brake stuff for a bit, will need to start the bleed process and check all the fittings/unions

[johnpinetree]

Of course there is a 100 tool to bleed the abs. Sheesh. Good luck with the bleed and testing... sending good luck your way.

[toadster]

last night I started unpacking the electrical loom, need to figure out if I have another mount for the fuse panel as the one the box doesn't fit...



the relay on the left side is too low to fit the space


also started drilling out the driver floor panel last night, fingers crossed - I haven't broken a drill bit in weeks!!!



If I haven't said it before, I'll say it again - always have a vacuum nearby - those metal shavings get everywhere!

I also ordered a measurement tool for the power brake booster, not in any directions from Whitby but the forum suggests this for a good pedal feel. Oh the things we learn everyday!

Power Brake Booster Pin Adjustment Tool

and a quick video on how it works!

[Blitzboy54]

There is a screw holding the inertia switch relay to the rest of the panel. Remove it and move the relay to the spot it belongs. Everything will fit nice and snug after that

[toadster]

There is a screw holding the inertia switch relay to the rest of the panel. Remove it and move the relay to the spot it belongs. Everything will fit nice and snug after that

thanks! I noticed that this morning when I took the photo

had to find a shorter screw, otherwise it would have pierced the fuel pump fuse

[Blitzboy54]

I think I used one of the machine screw that were holding the aluminum panels.

[JB in NOVA]

last night I started unpacking the electrical loom, need to figure out if I have another mount for the fuse panel as the one the box doesn't fit...

Toadster, in my kit there were two fuse panel mounts -- one in the FFR kit, and another in the Ron Francis box. I used the FFR panel but had to trim a bit to make it fit. After I did that (story of my life), I noticed the Ron Francis mount probably would have fit without modification. Either way, cutting the mount is pretty straightforward. I used my Dremel with a cutting wheel, took 5 minutes. BTW, your build is looking great!

[toadster]

so today my brake booster rod adjustment tool arrived, who knew this existed? (n00b alert!)

I setup my Whitby brake booster like the directions stated, I only used one spacer - well here's the result!

you use this tool to first measure the depth of the master cylinder, then you measure the pushrod depth... well with no spacers it was WAY too long, here's with 1 spacer (like I had initially installed)
the pushrod is still too long as the gauge goes past the rod, there's supposed to be .02" clearance...


so I added another spacer and it's perfect! you can't tell in the pic, but it's ever so slightly gapped from the rod


pedal still goes to the wall, but my speed-bleeder arrives tomorrow (I hope) and I can get the brake system bled and hopefully it will take care of the issue.

[toadster]

well, after a day or so of testing the brakes - still pretty spongey... then I realized the ABS unit uses bubble flare, NOT double flare... ugh, more rework!

the front lines I may just redo, but the rear lines being so long, I may just cut them closer to the ABS unit and do a union closer to the front...
like many say, you won't build a car, you'll build it 3 times before you're done LOL ouch!

[GoDadGo]

like many say, you won't build a car, you'll build it 3 times before you're done LOL ouch!

I found your statement to be very true because I've seen several cars that looked like they rolled off an assembly line while others seemed to be cobbled together.
I too felt like I built my Roadster 3-Times and every little back step tested my skills so just remember that you are building your dream.
Don't get discouraged because a finely crafted car is what you end up with once the dust settles and it has been completed.

> ABS on a Cobra?
> Who'd Have Wanted Something Like That?
> A Dude Near Sacramento Cali That We Call Toadster Who Is Building His Dream!

You've Got This!

[toadster]

ok - a little update (it's been a while!)

did some cleanup/re-org in the garage and got back into the build... my son and I pulled the 2 feed lines and 2 front lines off the HCU, and the master cylinder... wasn't too messy, used the vacuum bleeder to evacuate 90% of the fluid from the lines

Since the GT500 HCU has 2 1/4 feed lines, I ordered two 60" straight NiCopp lines, I just don't want to spend another $80 on a 1/4 tubing straightener for 2 lines
Waiting on those to arrive...
also had to swap out the outlets from the master cylinder to adapt to the 1/4 lines, I got ones that fit from AutoZone

our next step is to see if I can re-use the existing 3/16" lines buy cutting and re-flaring with the bubble/ISO flare into the HCU, if not, will have to re-bend new lines
the rear lines will be interesting since they're longer sections - if I pull them off the car, then I can probably re-use them

waiting on those lines and a 1/4 tubing bender to arrive - so I got to labelling some wiring
it's a bit OCD, but verify the wiring docs and simplify the build on the car

using this DYMO RhinoPRO 5200 Label Maker with shrink tubing - love it!




also, I ordered the Flex-a-lite Flex-Wave LoBoy Electric Fan (Puller), 16" fan
I figured it's good cooling insurance, and much easier to do now than when the body is on...
although it was still a PITA to remove the old fan...

had to disassemble the shroud, mounts and the front mesh - then remove the fan
then had to re-drill holes for new rivnuts because the spacing is a bit different - then re-assemble

essentially the same size fan, but the Flex-A-Lite pulls more CFM at the same amperage

kit fan left, Flex fan right




hope to get the brakes DONE this week!

[johnpinetree]

Good luck on the brakes my friend! After investigating further I think the best way to do the traction control on something like this is with an aftermarket ECU like the AEM Infinity. Great, right? So like ideally you wouldn't even waste cash on the OEM ECU if you're going to upgrade anyway, right? Easier to justify??

Well, the problem is with the Gen 3 Coyote is that there's too many damn injectors. Yeah, too many injectors!!! Blasphemous. Anyhow, I'm trying to reach out to the AEM Infinity people this week and see if there's anything on the horizon... but I'm getting nervous. In my head I thought the perfect build would be a new Coyote with traction control... (enabling maybe even launch control...) but something might have to give...

Anyhow, if you've done any more digging on this and have thoughts I'd love to hear them.

[toadster]

LOL you guys are SO right when you say - I'll build the car 3x before I build it once!!!

FINALLY have the Whitby power brakes and GT500 HCU bled and good pedal pressure!!!

My son and I tore out all the lines and had to re-do the bubble flares for the ABS HCU




we also upgraded the 2 feed lines with 1/4" NiCopp and we believe the brakes are DONE!!!

[toadster]

also got a chance to re-setup the Russ Thompson turn signal on the replaced steering shaft

[toadster]

now that the brakes are tidied up - I got to do more panel riveting!





and OMG rear wheels and tires mounted!!!

[toadster]

also mounted the fuse panel, and am getting ready to drill some holes in the firewall

the three runs that aren't used in the roadster - do you guys cut them and tape off?

[Fman]

now that the brakes are tidied up - I got to do more panel riveting!













and OMG rear wheels and tires mounted!!!

Way to go todd but I dont think your pics are coming through tho... Just a box with a ? on my end. Maybe it is my computer that is the problem... I can see all the other pics.

[toadster]

Way to go todd but I dont think your pics are coming through tho... Just a box with a ? on my end. Maybe it is my computer that is the problem... I can see all the other pics.

I think fixed now - thanks!

[Fman]

I think fixed now - thanks!

Ah much better, looking good! Those wheels are very cool! FWIW on the extra connections on the RF harness some guys diet the looms and remove them. I hit the easy button and just taped them off with gorilla tape. This is what FFR recommended to me. Would be cool if you could find some type of caps to go on them.

[JohnK]

Those wheels are cool! Congratulations - it's a great day when the wheels and tires go on for the first time. It definitely makes it feel like much more of a car.

I did diet out the 33 hot rod connector from the wiring harness, along with some other stuff that I don't need in my build. It was a bit of work and involved stripping off almost all of the wire loom so I now have a massive mess all over my cockpit that I'm working to re-organize and re-wrap. In the end it'll be a cleaner package but it's a lot of work.

[toadster]

made some great progress the past two days!

got a few more steps done with the breeze battery box - had to notch the ABS platform that I had built to allow the braces to fit squarely onto the battery
we inadvertently did the starter side of the ground cable first, so we'll trim to fit when the engine is in!
IMG_3134 (1).jpg IMG_3121.jpgIMG_3120.jpg
I have to say Mark Reynolds is a master! I was going through the directions and saw a grease fitting - I thought, hmm a grease fitting for a battery tray!?
yeah, he's thought of it all - a 90-degree fitting so it's easier to grease the LCA!!

Next up was to create a few trunk panels for a good surface to mount some carpet in the upper trunk walls...
yes, they don't look great, but once covered with carpet - unless you have x-ray vision they'll never be heard from again!

IMG_3110.jpg IMG_3112.jpg IMG_3111.jpg IMG_3113.jpg

[toadster]

next up was the big chunks of the wire harness! drilling the firewall is one of those things you don't want to screw up!
we measured about 10 times had to move the holes over about 1/2" to clear the reservoirs - but it's done!

IMG_3122.jpg IMG_3123.jpg IMG_3128.jpg

ran the front and rear harnesses and tried getting the footbox tidied up to clear the hoses
right now it looks like a TON of space with the firewall forward from FFMetal, but I know it's gonna get cramped REAL soon!
IMG_3125.jpg IMG_3126.jpg

[toadster]

started doing some more mockup for the dash, moving switches around, etc... this is where the OCD kicks in hard!

IMG_3124.jpg

and a little hint of what's coming...
IMG_3127.jpg

[JB in NOVA]

Looking good! You've been putting in some serious hours in the garage!

[460.465USMC]

Nice progress, Toadster! Looking good. I'm also working electrical...and enjoying it. Keep up the good work.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Looking at the photo your dash appears high Todd. It would probably be prudent to drop the body on for a test fit before making anything permanent.

Jeff

[John Ibele]

Looking great, Toadster. Dash OCD ... tell me about it . I actually found cutout photos of the gauges helped to better assess sightlines around the steering wheel. You're making serious progress!

[Railroad]

May or may not be an issue, one on line builder left the clamps holding the dash in place, on too long. Results, depressions in the padded dash that would not come out.

[toadster]

Looking at the photo your dash appears high Todd. It would probably be prudent to drop the body on for a test fit before making anything permanent.
Jeff

you would know with the CF dash, does it lay out the same as the standard sheetmetal/covered dash? the rounded edge is a bit deceiving...
the center is currently flush with the top of the hoop and the edges below...

May or may not be an issue, one on line builder left the clamps holding the dash in place, on too long. Results, depressions in the padded dash that would not come out.

hopefully carbon fiber won't have this issue -right?