A few of things. That cap doesn't look like it is sealing. The filler T should be at the high point and setting as flat as possible. You have had or are having a major coolant leak on the engine somewhere. Your timing cover areas are full of coolant. Rectify those things and try it again. Too much stuff going on to make a diagnosis. Here is an old picture of mine for reference on the filler T.
Norm
Mk4 base kit 7721, 331 Stroker, Holley Sniper EFI, Wipers, Heater, Whitby Soft Top, Drop trunk mod and more
A few of things. That cap doesn't look like it is sealing. The filler T should be at the high point and setting as flat as possible. You have had or are having a major coolant leak on the engine somewhere. Your timing cover areas are full of coolant. Rectify those things and try it again. Too much stuff going on to make a diagnosis. Here is an old picture of mine for reference on the filler T.
Norm
The housing was leaking...that's all pulled apart and ready to be put back together once it cools off.
The thermostat did passing the boiling in the pot test.
Probably won't be able to start the engine until Tuesday...need to let the gasket seal setup overnight
Hopefully its something like burping the radiator...
Pad, I will nit pick here with personal preference. I try to keep detail simple and minimize opportunity for trouble (leaks).
In your case you have eight hose clamp connections where with simple hose segments you could seal it with four clamps.
A tape measure and hose inventory can help you discover a straight and 90 degree hose that will plumb your application.
jim
Have you looked at the Boig Cool Pipes? I know they aren't cheap, but they sure simplify the cooling system and they minimize the opportunity for a leak or worse. And they just look good!
The thing I have always found handy is to use a cooling system pressure tester. They are not that expensive and will quickly tell if you have a slow leak in the system. It can also be used to pressurize the system a couple of times as you fill/top it off vs. running the motor up to temp. I can't count the number of times I've used mine over the years.
The thing I have always found handy is to use a cooling system pressure tester. They are not that expensive and will quickly tell if you have a slow leak in the system. It can also be used to pressurize the system a couple of times as you fill/top it off vs. running the motor up to temp. I can't count the number of times I've used mine over the years.
air will go to the highest part of the system. when filling my system, i broke it down into 2 parts: the engine/intake and the radiator.
since the thermostat is closed when the engine is cool, I first filled my radiator through the filler neck on my T piece. Make sure your filler is the highest point after your thermostat. open the petcock on the DS which will let the air out and cont to fill until fluid comes out of the petcock. at this point, the entire radiator, lower tube and water pump should be completely filled. cont filling through the T piece until you top it off. If running a heater, I used one of the heater hoses to fill. I unplugged it from the intake and held it high up in the air (think beer bong) and filled with a funnel. keep the temp sender out of your intake and fill until fluid comes to the top. screw in the temp sender and this should ensure that the entire intake is purged of air. if you are holding the heater hose above the heater core, it also ensures that all air is purged from the core (assuming you have the heater valve opened up). at this point, fill the rest of the heater tube to the top, put your thumb over the end, and plug it back in to the intake, trying not to lose too much fluid. borrow a pressure tester from NAPA, looking for any slow leaks, fill your overflow tank about 1/3 -1/2 way, and you should be all set.
No leaks in the thermostat housing -- one problem solved
Drove her once around the block -- got to 180 degrees and kept climbing
Cap was on tight...
How did ya'll burp your engine?
This is how I plan to do mine. This right from the FAQ sheet that blueprint sent me with the engine:
Q: How do I bleed all the access air out of my cooling system? And/OR…My radiator hoses keep popping off
A: The FFR’s, and fords especially, seem to trap air in the cooling system. A cooling system simply works by pressure-trapping water and antifreeze, allowing water to go over 212 degrees F, without boiling (AKA, Boiling over)
A You need to fill the cooling system from the highest point possible, be it a remote filler neck, or even a heater fitting on the intake manifold.
A: its not unheard of starting the car with the cap off, so try and force out any air. But keep in mind, the T-stat will open at 180, and water boils at 212. So you will have to get the cap back on before it hits 212. Or you WILL have a mess.
A: Also, I don’t think FFR would even argue that their corrugated stainless tubes are “great”. I recommend a true rubber tube, or aftermarket solid tubes, if you keep running into trouble with keeping hoses on.
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Originally Posted by Norm B
