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Thread: Brake Help | North Dallas Area

  1. #1
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    Brake Help | North Dallas Area

    All,
    I知 having trouble getting the brakes to work? I知 using Whitby, followed the instructions, he even sent out a new master cylinder.

    I致e pressure bled the brakes...no air in lines...pedal still go to the floor.

    Is their anyone in the North Dallas Area who would be willing to come by and take a look?

    You name the beer and it値l be on stock

    Thanks,
    Matt

  2. #2
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    Did you bench bleed the master cylinder before commencing any other bleeding of the system?

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  4. #3
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    When you get a chance please post pictures of your calipers.
    Mk4 base kit 7721, 331 Stroker, Holley Sniper EFI, Wipers, Heater, Whitby Soft Top, Drop trunk mod and more

  5. #4
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    Waving White Flag | Whitby Brakes

    Quote Originally Posted by Norm B View Post
    When you get a chance please post pictures of your calipers.
    All,
    1) I bench bled the master cylinder, got hard pressure, then reconnected the brakes line (broke two in the process - which have now been fixed)....

    2) Pressure tested the the system - held 15lb of pressure

    3) Pressure bled the brakes - pedal still goes to the floor


    Caliper picture as requested...all mounted in similar way
    Calipers.jpg

    #dallasareabrakes

  6. #5
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    There have been cases where the calipers have been mounted on the wrong side putting the bleeder at the bottom thus making it impossible to get the air out of the system. Yours are mounted correctly so that is not the issue. What pedal box and brake pedal arm are you using. I went back and looked at pictures of the booster pushrod in your previous thread on this subject. It is hard to tell from the pictures but, the difference from pedal up to fully depressed seems too small. Any chance you have a manual brake pedal setup?
    Last edited by Norm B; 05-13-2021 at 09:53 PM.
    Mk4 base kit 7721, 331 Stroker, Holley Sniper EFI, Wipers, Heater, Whitby Soft Top, Drop trunk mod and more

  7. #6
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    Brake Pedal

    Quote Originally Posted by Norm B View Post
    There have been cases where the callipers have been mounted on the wrong side putting the bleeder at the bottom thus making it impossible to get the air out of the system. Yours are mounted correctly so that is not the issue. What pedal box and brake pedal arm are you using. I went back and looked at pictures of the booster pushrod in your previous thread on this subject. It is hard to tell from the pictures but, the difference from pedal up to fully depressed seems too small. Any chance you have a manual brake pedal setup?


    I知 using what Whitby sent me and I have no idea...

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Padawan View Post
    I’m using what Whitby sent me and I have no idea...
    The pedal and arm are designed to work with their power brake system. I am officially out of ideas. Hopefully someone in the area can help.

    Norm
    Mk4 base kit 7721, 331 Stroker, Holley Sniper EFI, Wipers, Heater, Whitby Soft Top, Drop trunk mod and more

  9. #8
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    Last suggestion, I promise!
    If your rear caliper is the Ford style with the integrated parking brake, have you done the adjustment procedure?

    Norm
    Last edited by Norm B; 05-13-2021 at 09:52 PM.
    Mk4 base kit 7721, 331 Stroker, Holley Sniper EFI, Wipers, Heater, Whitby Soft Top, Drop trunk mod and more

  10. #9
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    How are you bleeding the system? I have found the only way I can get a firm pedal is, after getting all the air out, to do the traditional 2 man system where one presses the brake pedal while the other manually bleeds out fluid. You MUST make sure the MC never empties, or you have to start all over again because you've let air into the system from the MC (sorry just going over the basics just in case). Start with the caliper farthest from the MC and work your way to the closest one last. Another thought - if you have ABS then that's a different procedure - others will have to chime in for help that is the case. Something else I've recently learned on this forum... if you have loops in the lines make sure they loop in a horizontal plane. Vertical plane loops can be more challenging to bleed all the air out. And I suppose the bigger the loop, the harder it would be. Hope this gives you some things to consider.
    MkII: 408 Dart block dry sump, 750cfm carb, G-Force T-5, 8.8 rear with 3.55 gears, 3-link, Kirkey seats, black ceramic coated twister mufflers with shields and adjustable turn down tips, passenger roll bar, front and rear roll bars. 2020 GT500 Magnetic metallic, with white and lime green stripes.

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