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Thread: Ceramic Coated Exhuast versus FFR chrome options

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    Ceramic Coated Exhuast versus FFR chrome options

    I am planning my build and initially chose the chrome option exhaust. I was researching local powder coating options for aluminium panels and ran across a shop that can ceramic coat exhaust for $35/ foot. Not having the parts yet that sounds like a cost saving (of 50%) and performance improvement over chrome plated option.

    I am looking for feedback on which way to go. Thanks

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    The FFR exhaust is polished S/S not chrome. It will slightly discolor with use. I prefer the ceramic route but must admit the S/S looks very nice.
    16+ FFR kits and counting!

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    The ceramic coating does dull with time and heat so it looks different from chrome or SS. I have ceramic on both my cars and I like the look.
    David W
    Mkll 4874 built in 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    The FFR exhaust is polished S/S not chrome. It will slightly discolor with use. I prefer the ceramic route but must admit the S/S looks very nice.
    Thanks for the feedback.

    What is it that you prefer about the ceramic? What color did you go for? After looking closer at the colors the shop is offering (metallic silver) it might not be close enough to the polished SS of the other pieces.

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    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Mike,
    Not sure where you got your quote from but I've had a few sets done at Pro-Kote Indy; most recent was in April for $350. Quality work and good service however as others have mentioned they look different.



    Jeff

    ceramicstainlesspipes.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    Mike,
    Not sure where you got your quote from but I've had a few sets done at Pro-Kote Indy; most recent was in April for $350. Quality work and good service however as others have mentioned they look different.




    Jeff

    ceramicstainlesspipes.jpg

    Thanks Jeff. That is one of the shops I was looking at. I appreciate the photo that helps. Do they coat both the inside and outside.

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    Another difference that I've been told is that with the chrome... if your skin touches it when hot, some of the skin will stick and stay with the chrome when you pull away. With ceramic coatings you still get bit but your skin won't stick to it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by txboiler View Post
    Thanks Jeff. That is one of the shops I was looking at. I appreciate the photo that helps. Do they coat both the inside and outside.
    I had mine ceramic coated. They coat basically the outside and on the cut exits in so far as you can see. Line of sight.

    Steve
    2nd MK4 #10639 received 3-19-23. Wife's version. Street Snake - IRS, Willwoods, no roll bars, no hood scoop, no stripes, Blue Print Sniper 2, 302 with 4R70w trans, and under car exhaust. McLaren Racing Green with saddle leather interior.
    1st build - Mk4 Roadster #9319, received 4-10-18. IL registration 8/6/19. Moser 8.8. 3 Link. Wilwood brakes. Blue Print 427, Holley 750, TKO 600, 0.64 OD. Paint Dec 2020. Ruby Red with Carbon Flash Black metallic stripes.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ILPBFoot View Post
    I had mine ceramic coated. They coat basically the outside and on the cut exits in so far as you can see. Line of sight.

    Steve
    Thanks for that. I was wondering if the lower temp claims were legitimate.

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    I've had both the s/s and ceramic. The ceramic are easier to keep clean and don't discolor in hot locations (like near the head flanges) but they do burn your shins equally well!

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    I ceramic coated my SS pipes with a matte black that looks as good as ever after years and thousands of smiling miles!
    FFR 5136 Started as a donor...donor guages, engine, trans,etc. Now...TFS street intake,stage 1 cam, GT40p's,24# injectors and 80mm MAF,70mm TB,Z-spec t-5, and PSE Halibrand wrapped with Nitto 555 G2’s. My ever evolving dream car!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by txboiler View Post
    Thanks for that. I was wondering if the lower temp claims were legitimate.
    No, not really. Maybe the ceramic cools a little quicker?
    Mrk III, 331 stroker, Borla stack injection, T5, 3:55 IRS, Power steering and brakes. Kleiner body & paint

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    Quote Originally Posted by txboiler View Post
    Thanks for that. I was wondering if the lower temp claims were legitimate.


    The only practical way to reduce burn risk is with metal shields. Buy a plain set & have them coated with the pipes if you don't want stainless steel
    Kevin
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    Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15

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    From a recent article I was reading: I too have noticed that my ceramic coated headers seemed cooler than what I was used to with mild steel. My IR gun confirms the 260ish number quoted below. Yes they still burn but cool faster....

    Hot Stuff
    Beauty may be subjective, but ceramic's vastly superior ability to control heat isn't. Ceramic material is a fantastic heat insulator -- that's why disc brakes on racing cars and tiles on the leading edges of the space shuttle's wings and nose use ceramic. The difference in heat radiation can be profound, especially in the confines of an engine compartment. "Popular Hot Rodding Magazine" found that during testing, its set of stainless headers ran at a scorching 870 degrees Fahrenheit. A set of ceramic headers on the same engine registered a mere 258 degrees. Barely hot enough to boil water. The ceramic headers dropped to 195 degrees within a minute of shutting the engine down; after that same minute, the stainless headers were still 520 degrees. So, for a cool engine bay, ceramic beats stainless by a long, long shot.

    Steve
    2nd MK4 #10639 received 3-19-23. Wife's version. Street Snake - IRS, Willwoods, no roll bars, no hood scoop, no stripes, Blue Print Sniper 2, 302 with 4R70w trans, and under car exhaust. McLaren Racing Green with saddle leather interior.
    1st build - Mk4 Roadster #9319, received 4-10-18. IL registration 8/6/19. Moser 8.8. 3 Link. Wilwood brakes. Blue Print 427, Holley 750, TKO 600, 0.64 OD. Paint Dec 2020. Ruby Red with Carbon Flash Black metallic stripes.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ILPBFoot View Post
    From a recent article I was reading: I too have noticed that my ceramic coated headers seemed cooler than what I was used to with mild steel. My IR gun confirms the 260ish number quoted below. Yes they still burn but cool faster....

    Hot Stuff
    Beauty may be subjective, but ceramic's vastly superior ability to control heat isn't. Ceramic material is a fantastic heat insulator -- that's why disc brakes on racing cars and tiles on the leading edges of the space shuttle's wings and nose use ceramic. The difference in heat radiation can be profound, especially in the confines of an engine compartment. "Popular Hot Rodding Magazine" found that during testing, its set of stainless headers ran at a scorching 870 degrees Fahrenheit. A set of ceramic headers on the same engine registered a mere 258 degrees. Barely hot enough to boil water. The ceramic headers dropped to 195 degrees within a minute of shutting the engine down; after that same minute, the stainless headers were still 520 degrees. So, for a cool engine bay, ceramic beats stainless by a long, long shot.

    Steve

    Would the insulation be true for the aluminium panels? I was thinking about coating them as well to provide insulation in addition to tradition sounds/heat insulation on the interior side of the panels.

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    Quote Originally Posted by txboiler View Post
    Would the insulation be true for the aluminium panels? I was thinking about coating them as well to provide insulation in addition to tradition sounds/heat insulation on the interior side of the panels.
    Maybe so but the cost?? I can tell you that with heat/sound insulation on the inside under the carpet is plenty. I you have concerns in the area by the header tubes close the foot boxes, I have seen builders install an extra panel that has 1/4 or 3/8" standoffs from the foot boxes as an added "heat shield" to take the direct heat and help keep the front of the boxes cool. After building mine without, I see no need for these. My foot boxes are fine with just the heat/sound material under the carpet.
    2nd MK4 #10639 received 3-19-23. Wife's version. Street Snake - IRS, Willwoods, no roll bars, no hood scoop, no stripes, Blue Print Sniper 2, 302 with 4R70w trans, and under car exhaust. McLaren Racing Green with saddle leather interior.
    1st build - Mk4 Roadster #9319, received 4-10-18. IL registration 8/6/19. Moser 8.8. 3 Link. Wilwood brakes. Blue Print 427, Holley 750, TKO 600, 0.64 OD. Paint Dec 2020. Ruby Red with Carbon Flash Black metallic stripes.

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  24. #17
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ILPBFoot View Post
    Maybe so but the cost?? I can tell you that with heat/sound insulation on the inside under the carpet is plenty. I you have concerns in the area by the header tubes close the foot boxes, I have seen builders install an extra panel that has 1/4 or 3/8" standoffs from the foot boxes as an added "heat shield" to take the direct heat and help keep the front of the boxes cool. After building mine without, I see no need for these. My foot boxes are fine with just the heat/sound material under the carpet.
    What he said. If you've used one of the common undercarpet insulation products cockpit heat intrusion on a warm summer day isn't coming from under the hood, it's from that big orange ball in the sky.

    Jeff

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  26. #18
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    Thanks for the all the feedback. I appreciate it

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    Living in an often hot climate, I went to the trouble of thermal insulation on both sides of the foot boxes. I have a Coyote (which is reported to be a cool runner) as well as ceramic headers. Next, I need to do something about my cats, as they radiate a lot of heat. I also made sure to seal between the engine compartment and the cabin really well. End result, no heat issues from engine at any time. However as Jeff K pointed out, the sun is the overriding issue. On clear sunny days above 25C, I drive when the sun is low. It's also a bit safer, as I find glare on the windshield creates blindspots. We are just coming into perfect weather for evening cruises.

    Cheers,
    Nigel
    Mk.4 FFR supplied Right hand drive
    Received 12/2012 completed 12/2019
    Gen1 Coyote / TKO600 / IRS
    Lots of mods to make compliant for Australian design rules

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nigel Allen View Post
    Living in an often hot climate, On clear sunny days above 25C, I drive when the sun is low. It's also a bit safer, as I find glare on the windshield creates blindspots. We are just coming into perfect weather for evening cruises.

    Cheers,
    Nigel
    Thanks for the info. What parts of Australia are you at. When I lived in Singapore I spent a fair amount of time is Brisbane and Perth. I enjoyed both locations and their dramatic differences

    Cheers !

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    Adelaide, South Australia. Live in the hills area, lots of great roads to explore. Perth and Brissie are beautiful places. We often take holidays in Mooloolaba, Qld, to escape the cold weather.

    Cheers,
    Nigel
    Mk.4 FFR supplied Right hand drive
    Received 12/2012 completed 12/2019
    Gen1 Coyote / TKO600 / IRS
    Lots of mods to make compliant for Australian design rules

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    Quote Originally Posted by BEAR-AvHistory View Post


    The only practical way to reduce burn risk is with metal shields. Buy a plain set & have them coated with the pipes if you don't want stainless steel
    I must have gotten a really good batch for my pipes that are ceramic coated satin black. I've run her in the heat of summer in Lake Havasu City, AZ (110+ degrees) and my pipes are toasty to the touch, but they will not bite (burn) you. I'm truly surprised...

    Chris
    Last edited by cgundermann; 10-23-2020 at 08:00 PM.
    Generation 3 Type 65 Daytona Coupe Complete Kit #151885 received May 6, 2022. Gen 3 Coyote, IRS, Tremec TKX, American Powertrain hydraulic throwout bearing & Wilwood brakes.

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    What’s everyone’s opinion on heat shielding between headers and foot boxes? The driver’s side headers are literally touching the outside of the foot box! Thinking about trying to create an airspace plus insulating blanket. What will live if in contact with headers?

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    Quote Originally Posted by cgundermann View Post
    I must have gotten a really good batch for my pipes that are ceramic coated satin black. I've run her in the heat of summer in Lake Havasu City, AZ (110+ degrees) and my pipes are toasty to the touch, but they will not bite (burn) you. I'm truly surprised...

    Chris
    Yeah I would expect most people would be shocked that you could touch the pipes & not get burned.
    Kevin
    MKIV #8234
    Coyote '14/TKO-600/3-Link 3:55 Rear
    I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
    NITTO NT01 275X40XZR17 - 315X35ZRX17
    Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15

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    Just spent 2 hours with JET-HOT in Oklahoma City dropped off a set now Georgies Gas-N side pipes and pick them up in two weeks. Various colors but Silver, platinum and black look and feel best. Other colors feel grainy. The finished products ready to ship in silver look so much like chrome from a foot away most people could not tell.

    The heat is reduced by a couple of hundred of degrees and at the foot box that would help.

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    I put Thermo-Tec heat-insulating foil sheeting on the footboxes and stainless steel reflecting panels with 3/8" air gaps near the headers.

    141-4176_IMG.JPG

    141-4178_IMG.JPG

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    Mk3.1 Complete kit #6846 Delv. 12/20/08-- Finished 2/11/11, 89 302 EFI,T-5, 3-Link, 17" Halibrands, Nitto 555 245-315 tires, widened drivers footbox w/ dead pedal, extended passengers footbox,Sapphire Blue Met & Wimbledon White stripes,radiator stone guard shield, Build blog http://jimsffrcobrabuild.blogspot.com/

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  37. #27
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    A question on ceramic coating: does it make sense to do both exhaust and headers? What do people usually do? I have both SS headers and exhaust pipes, and considering coating pipes in black to go better with a paint I chose.
    Build thread
    FFR mk4 roadster complete kit, 347 cu in carbed BluePrint engine, TKO600, IRS, power steering, ordered Jan2020, delivered 3/25/20, titled 8/23/20, finished 07/17/2021, graduated 10/06/2021

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    I also did the headers. If they are much different in color you will be able to tell when looking at the body where they exit.

  39. #29
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    The black at Jet-Hot looks great. I had the headers for my Jag ceramic coated (not Jet-Hot) and they looked like something that needs to be cleaned of the floor. The original Jag headers are Porcelain and crack after use, now that I have seen the black at Jet-Hot I am going to have them done again. Ceramic coatings are not equal.

  40. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by CobraKan View Post
    The black at Jet-Hot looks great. I had the headers for my Jag ceramic coated (not Jet-Hot) and they looked like something that needs to be cleaned of the floor. The original Jag headers are Porcelain and crack after use, now that I have seen the black at Jet-Hot I am going to have them done again. Ceramic coatings are not equal.
    Agree. I had Jet-Hot do my FFR Stainless side exhaust in their silver. I agree with CobraKan, from 3 feet it's hard to tell they are ceramic coated vs the stainless. Jet-Hot does work for some big players like Force Racing. They are easy to work with and do a great job!

    Steve
    2nd MK4 #10639 received 3-19-23. Wife's version. Street Snake - IRS, Willwoods, no roll bars, no hood scoop, no stripes, Blue Print Sniper 2, 302 with 4R70w trans, and under car exhaust. McLaren Racing Green with saddle leather interior.
    1st build - Mk4 Roadster #9319, received 4-10-18. IL registration 8/6/19. Moser 8.8. 3 Link. Wilwood brakes. Blue Print 427, Holley 750, TKO 600, 0.64 OD. Paint Dec 2020. Ruby Red with Carbon Flash Black metallic stripes.

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