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Thread: Inverting the Front Shocks

  1. #1
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    Question Inverting the Front Shocks

    I was noodling around in the ‘33 forums this morning and came across a post stating the FFR build school is now recommending to invert the front shocks.

    Has anyone here heard or read about that?

    If so do you know if this is with the standard supplied shocks?
    It would make adjustments much easier and I’d rather go through the work now rather than once the truck is fully assembled.

    I don’t want to bug FFR for this if I don’t need to...

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...r-car-is-built

    See Post #10
    Last edited by Pat Landymore; 05-24-2020 at 09:58 AM. Reason: Correct typo in title

  2. #2
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    I had this discussion on my roadster build and here is what the experts from the forum and FFR provided:

    If you have the red Koni's, they can be installed in either orientation. The double adjustable upgrade shocks must be installed in the orientation specified.

    Jim @FFR cleared it up:

    "Monotube shocks like the red ones that come with roadsters and came with older 33 kits can be mounted either direction. Twin tube shocks, like the current 33 nickel plated ones or the optional aluminum body double adjustables, must be mounted body down. "

  3. #3
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    I concur with Papa, if you have the red Koni coil overs originally supplied by FFR in the 33HR kit you can run them inverted.

    Pat, if you look at the first photo in the #10 post on your link that is what my QA1 DA Proma Star QA1 coil overs look like and the pre-load adjusters are easily accessed with the short adjuster wrench designed to be used with a 3/8-drive ratchet https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qa1-t115w. the damping adjusters are also easy to access with the shocks inverted. These are better shocks than the Koni and easier to work with. I bought mine from Summit Racing #QA1-DD403 for $242 each but to run them inverted I had to use the extended spring caps #QA1-9018-113 and I use 8" x 250lb springs pre-loaded 1.05" which gives me 5" front ride height on my car (a little lower on most cars). The 250 lbs springs give a much better ride than the heavier springs FFR supplies and superior weight transfer.
    Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).

    33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build

  4. #4
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    Thanks gentlemen.

    I received the nickel plated Konis with my kit, so I guess that means no inverting. Darn.

    I’ll have to think quite a bit about investing a whack more into shocks. Guess I’ll get it legally on the road first and evaluate from there.

    My engine/turbo combo is a bit heavier than an LSx setup (530lbs for the complete engine + approx 45 for the turbo)...honestly suspect I’ll need 450# or 500# springs to make it drive-able on our often poor roads.
    Thanks again!
    Last edited by Pat Landymore; 05-24-2020 at 12:41 PM.

  5. #5
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    I suggest you rethink that spring rate you're thinking about -- that truck will ride like a Conestoga wagon. Remember, the extra engine weight is NOT carried on the front alone. Better to calculate the spring rate needed than guess at it.

    But if you go that route, when you decide to change the springs you might as well get the QA1 shocks too.
    Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).

    33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build

  6. #6
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    Thanks for your well thought comments, will definitely keep them in mind.
    Cheers,
    Pat

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