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25th Anniversary #9772
suggestions on tracking changes, and ensuring progress is done in order?
hey guys, my build has had me jumping around between documents and looking to thin out the process a bit...
possibly help those considering a kit as well to better grasp the process - it's not a puzzle where everything fits perfectly, and when you change the puzzle, it complicates further.
it's quite obvious that the FFR manual is a good 'start' at framing the progress to take, but any options that deviate from the 'manual' require intervention - sometimes before you even get the parts you need (i.e. Coyote engine)
surely nobody keeps this all in their head..
I was thinking of taking all my manuals and start walking through the FFR manual as the framing document, and when there's a decision/change point - drop a sticky note to a different manual, then jump back to FFR till the next 'option'
What process do you guys use to ensure you're doing work sequentially and not back-track too much - or get to a "whoops - I should have done that before this" moment?
trying to make this an informative thread for reference for myself and others...
pulled this from a FAQ on the 'other forum' which i think is a good start
https://cobradreams.com/2019/07/17/5...your-roadster/
Last edited by toadster; 04-28-2020 at 01:51 PM.
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What you're describing isn't a bad idea. But maybe it's not quite as complicated as that. It's a pretty simple concept IMO. The build manual is for a standard build. Essentially without options. So whatever options you choose when you ordered your kit (or add during the build) could cause a deviation from the build manual. So right there is a big flag. Factory Five has a lot of their options instructions on the web. http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/instructions/. It wouldn't be possible for them to have a build manual that covers every combination of parts and options. So it's up to the builder to sort things out a bit. Maybe this isn't made clear enough for first time builders.
Same scenario for the engine installation. The manual instructions are very generic. Factory Five has separate very detailed instructions for the Coyote. So does Ford Performance. Many start their builds without the engine on hand. But it still needs to be taken into account very early in the build, even if not physically in the shop.
I was starting to put a message like this in your build thread, but chose not to. I think Jeff made a similar comment to you before. It's good to see builders like you who are trying to follow the manual. Many don't seem to. At least not enough sometimes, and ask questions that are right there in the instructions. But there are multiple resources to getting these things done. Everybody's work style is different, and builders need to figure out what works best for them.
Last edited by edwardb; 04-29-2020 at 09:07 AM.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020.
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Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020.
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Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138.
Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Build 6: Mk5 Roadster 30th Anniversary #11,258.
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Good luck assembling your kit car in order. Yes there are some dependent tasks that must be done in sequence but you will likely be waiting on parts from time to time so to keep from halting the project you will need to be flexible enough to jump to something else. No need to develop a gnatt chart and try to follow each line item in some order. Just visualize what has to be done, make a short to-do list if it helps you but no need to overthink this. It's just not that complicated.
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).
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The most frequent question I am asked about my FFR is, How long does it take to build one?
My answer is always; It depends on how far off the reservation you want to stray. If you build it per the manual with stock components, the build is pretty straight forward. Once you start adding options the sequence in the manual can/will be interrupted and you can spend lots of time bouncing between small projects and even more time chin-scratching.
Just think about the difference between popping on those bare aluminum panels as-is vs what you need to do if you powder coat. What color, how many panels, both sides, good shops near me. By the time you've answered those questions, straight-out-of-the-book builder is dropping his engine in. For me, all of those changes and modification are what made it fun. I would have 5 projects at a time in some stage of completion scattered around the garage and nothing actually installed/ torqued down for what seemed like forever. If I were building a second kit with the same options I could do it in half the time, but where's the fun in that? I could never make a dime building one of these to sell. Hats off to the pros out there.
I think the important thing to remember is that these are sold to be kits for a hobby. Build per the manual and you will have a very nice car that is a blast to drive. If you want to start customizing, hobbyist beware. Enjoy the "whoops, I should have done something in a different order" moments. When you are done, you will just be wishing you had something to work on anyway.
-Steve
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25th Anniversary #9772
great input guys... obviously trying to wrap my brain around the axle, maybe too much...
in checking my options
there's the basic manual 527 pages, ~90 chapters (stages)
I'm trying to align where I should place these directions intermixed with the FFR Manual - intermixed with the outside vendors 
#14675 - KONI Front Coil Over Shocks (Download)
#14680 - KONI IRS Coil Over Shocks (Download)
Breeze Offset Rack Mounting Kit for FFR Roadster
KRC Power Steering (Download)
#16461 - Coyote Power Steering Kit (Download)
#16116 - Front Swaybar (Download)
#15942 - 2015 Mustang Independent Rear Suspension (Download)
#15998 - 2015 IRS Swaybar (Download)
#15666 - Wilwood Pedal Box (Download)
Whitby Power Brakes
Gen 3 Coyote Install Instructions (Download)
Breeze battery box
#12195 - Hazard Wiring Diagram (Download)
#12354 - Headlight Switch Wiring (Download)
#14502 - Ignition Switch (Download)
#14503 - Chassis Wiring (Download)
Breeze Lower Radiator Support Kit
Breeze Heavy Duty Hinged Radiator/Shroud Mounting Kit
Breeze Radiator Fan Shroud
#15131 - Roadster Hood Hinge (Download)
Breeze Radiator Cowl Cover Kit for use with FFR Hinges
#15183 - E-Brake Handle (Download)
#15549 - Roadster Windshield Wipers (Download)
#16007 - FFR Electric GPS Gauges (Download)
#33862 - EFI In-Tank Fuel System (Download) <- modified for Boyd Tanks
Breeze seat mounts
#12012 - Overriders (Download)
#12042 - Sun Visors (Download)
#12049- Wind Wings (Download)
Pretty daunting to see ~1,400 pages of instruction and I know its not all of the items - I'm just trying to optimize, I'm having fun!
There are SO many threads where builders say "hey don't do that until you do this" or "you should have done that before affixing that" - maybe it's just part of the process 
as they say, How do you eat an elephant? In little bites, not in whole...
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I second what Naz said and also have the attitude that EVERYTHING you put on the car you will have to take off becuase something else needs to be changed or go on in front of it or doesn't fit just right or whatever. You actually build the car several times because of this process but don't let that frustrate you. I think that is why new builders become very fond on rivnuts and anti seize. In the end you will become the true genius of your car and won't really need the manual much. I found build threads much more helpful than the manual.
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I think that if you spent less time thinking about stuff like this, and more time actually building-----you'd be finished.
Mrk III, 331 stroker, Borla stack injection, T5, 3:55 IRS, Power steering and brakes. Kleiner body & paint
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Important items that I had to leave alone until later were marked many different ways:
Bold Sharpie Notes on the Aluminum, Painters Tape with Notes stuck to the free hanging wires, tags with notes zip tied to the car in the places that I needed to come back to, and Lists written on 8.5x11 and taped all over the garage.
The Bold Sharpie were good notes on aluminum, example "don't rivet back wall before trunk deck" or "Insulate Here"
Painters tape was a quick way to give big labels to wires that didn't have a location yet, example "Wire for Front Fans"
Zip ties and 2"x4" tags were good for hardware items, example "Not Torqued" or "locknut loose".
Lists were good for getting items out of my head and onto paper. Seeing things listed out helped out a lot. Dash items, electrical options desired, steps to getting it registered.
Don't be afraid to build it again if you know it's wrong or if you find out the order wasn't correct.
I've always said that I built mine 3 times; the wrong way, a better way, then the right way. It is well worth the assurance that you've done it right. Especially when you have passengers who you Love, and friends that trust you with their safety. Don't second guess anything by the time this build is done.
Last edited by DadofThree; 04-29-2020 at 09:19 AM.
Dave
Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
Greenhorn and doing the best I can
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I just plastered my build manual with yellow sticky notes to let me know where I skipped ahead/over a section and needed to go back to it. I found that after the main systems were installed, the manual mostly collected dust on my work bench as the rest of the assembly was pretty much intuitive. I think the real key, as others have already said, is to be looking ahead with every piece you are working on to be sure you can "service" the car down the road or get at a space that may be blocked by a different step (Installing the main trunk floor before the rear cockpit aluminum, for example.)
Last edited by Papa; 04-29-2020 at 09:21 AM.
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25th Anniversary #9772

Originally Posted by
DadofThree
Important items that I had to leave alone until later were marked many different ways:
Bold Sharpie Notes on the Aluminum, Painters Tape with Notes stuck to the free hanging wires, tags with notes zip tied to the car in the places that I needed to come back to, and Lists written on 8.5x11 and taped all over the garage.
The Bold Sharpie were good notes on aluminum, example "don't rivet back wall before trunk deck" or "Insulate Here"
Painters tape was a quick way to give big labels to wires that didn't have a location yet, example "Wire for Front Fans"
Zip ties and 2"x4" tags were good for hardware items, example "Not Torqued" or "locknut loose".
Lists were good for getting items out of my head and onto paper. Seeing things listed out helped out a lot. Dash items, electrical options desired, steps to getting it registered.
Don't be afraid to build it again if you know it's wrong or if you find out the order wasn't correct.
I've always said that I built mine 3 times; the wrong way, a better way, then the right way. It is well worth the assurance that you've done it right. Especially when you have passengers who you Love, and friends that trust you with their safety. Don't second guess anything by the time this build is done.

Originally Posted by
Papa
I just plastered my build manual with yellow sticky notes to let me know where I skipped ahead/over a section and needed to go back to it. I found that after the main systems were installed, the manual mostly collected dust on my work bench as the rest of the assembly was pretty much intuitive. I think the real key, as others have already said, is to be looking ahead with every piece you are working on to be sure you can "service" the car down the road or get at a space that may be blocked by a different step (Installing the main trunk floor before the rear cockpit aluminum, for example.)

Originally Posted by
Mark Eaton
I second what Naz said and also have the attitude that EVERYTHING you put on the car you will have to take off becuase something else needs to be changed or go on in front of it or doesn't fit just right or whatever. You actually build the car several times because of this process but don't let that frustrate you. I think that is why new builders become very fond on rivnuts and anti seize. In the end you will become the true genius of your car and won't really need the manual much. I found build threads much more helpful than the manual.
great ideas guys, everyone approaches differently and I like some of these ideas!
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As others have stated, I have been using the main build manual as the generic process flow. As I get to a point that is not covered in the main build manual I go to the sub system instructions like, Coyote Fitment instructions, Ron Frances instructions, Ford Performance instructions (etc). If not there, I check the list of miscellaneous instructions on FFR's website. If I still can't get an answer, I go to the experts on this forum.
At the stage I'm at in the build, I have gone back through the manuals and checked off what has been completed (especially the coyote fitment and ron francis wiring) so I won't second guess myself later. I have also created a final check list for items that have not been completed but need finished before start up or body on.
I think your idea to create sticky notes w/in the main build manual that references another manual or step is fine. Don't be surprised if you jump around a little. You'll find your build "groove" once you get through the first few pages of the build manual.
MK IV Roadster-Delivered Nov '18
Complete Kit, Gen2 Coyote, TKO 600, 2015 IRS, FFR brakes, FFR power steering, Full length headers