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Thread: Help Please: how to install body

  1. #1
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    Question Help Please: how to install body

    Hi all,
    First, I hope everyone is well during this Pandemic. Looks like we will have plenty of time in our garages.

    I am ready to install the body fir the first time and need all the hints I can get. There are some posts on the forum, but I don't know which ones are concerning to the MK4; some are old. From what I have read so far, it looks like I will have the body on and off several times. Do I put all bulb bulb seal on first? Not on the trunk sides? Not on the rear trunk edge? Seems like there is a problem pushing the body forward enough. How do I know when the body is correctly positioned? Any chassis prep that needs to be done first?

    I have aligned the wheels and go-carted several times. So....I think I am ready for the body.

    Thanks in advance for any and all help,

    Jeff
    Mk4 Complete kit with IRS, IRS brakes, Power Steering, 302 mounts, 302 headers, TKO, 2 Rollbars, Leather seats,
    vintage gauges, polished stainless sidepipes, front and rear sway bars, all cutouts.
    Blueprint Engines 347 stroker; Tremec TKO 600; 3.55 IRS, 17" Bullitt wheels: 9" front 10.5" rear.
    Delivered Nov. 6, 2018. First start Aug. 11, 2019. First Go-Cart Feb. 21, 2020.

  2. #2
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    Jeff,
    I did my first body fit with the bulb seal in place. Doing it with the bulb seal in place will allow you to see where you might have to trim sheet metal. To put the body on, get some help. I had 4 people total. One on each side. The two people on the sides do nothing more than pull the body out enough to slide the body down the sides of the frame. When putting the body on, the best way is to drop the front end of the body over the chassis. When doing this, move the body forward so you can clear the internal support. Once you have cleared the front end, have the person at the back pull the body to the rear. Once in position, slide the body down over the sheet metal. You may have to trim the vertical sides of the trunk if there is any interference, but like you said, you'll have the body off and on multiple times. Once important thing to keep in mind is that you MUST keep the support in place for the cockpit. That little piece of 2x4 can save you a world of problems. Take your time and watch closely. Before long, you'll be an old pro.

    Scott
    Built FFR9457. 351 Windsor, TKO600, 3.73. Fitech EFI. Russ Thompson throttle pedal, turn signal, and trunk pan. Carbon Fiber dash with Speedhut Revolution gauges. Paint by Jeff Kleiner.

  3. #3
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    Having done several builds, and helping with many more, I don't install any bulb seal until the body is going on for the last time. Install the body, then you can clearly see if any aluminum needs trimming. You will have the body one and off a couple of time, and you will destroy the seal doing so.
    Last edited by rich grsc; 03-23-2020 at 09:00 AM.

  4. #4
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    It’s much easier if you take your front wheels off and you must have your side pipes off.
    2017 FFR MK4 9026, 3 Link, 15" FFR halibrands, cooper cobra tires, '88 302/5.0, GT40 Y303 heads, Performer RPM intake Manifold, Holley 650 DP Carb, Pertronix distributor, T5Z spec built transmission, 3.73 rear end. Ordered Nov 2016, picked up at FFR Feb 2017, first start July 2017, Legal on the road May 2018, still in Gelcoat.

  5. #5

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Quote Originally Posted by Murd View Post
    It’s much easier if you take your front wheels off and you must have your side pipes off.
    Ditto On Mr. Murd's Comments.
    Also, just be careful to NOT over stress the body.
    Extra hands are a huge help too though our better more experienced builders often do it solo.

  6. #6
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    Jeff,
    My daughter and I are in the 3rd week of our build. We chose to do the bodywork first (sanding and gapping doors, hood, and trunk). The doors are a challenge to get smooth and lined up with all the pivot points. The thought is to do this as the body came connected with the chassis and once we get it prepped, take it off once, paint it, and then put it back on towards the end. Any lessons learned as we go through this would be appreciated. Best wishes in your build.

    Randy

  7. #7
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    Hi all,
    Thanks for the hints. Still don't know bulb seal on bulb seal off. However, more people will help.
    I hope there are some more posts.
    Thanks,
    Jeff
    Mk4 Complete kit with IRS, IRS brakes, Power Steering, 302 mounts, 302 headers, TKO, 2 Rollbars, Leather seats,
    vintage gauges, polished stainless sidepipes, front and rear sway bars, all cutouts.
    Blueprint Engines 347 stroker; Tremec TKO 600; 3.55 IRS, 17" Bullitt wheels: 9" front 10.5" rear.
    Delivered Nov. 6, 2018. First start Aug. 11, 2019. First Go-Cart Feb. 21, 2020.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff's First FFR View Post
    Hi all,
    Thanks for the hints. Still don't know bulb seal on bulb seal off. However, more people will help.
    I hope there are some more posts.
    Thanks,
    Jeff
    Jeff,
    I am on my first build also. I chose to do body work last. So my Chassis is pretty much done. So to answer your question I say bulb seal on so you can get proper fitment and alignment of body to chassis. and it is in its proper place and aligned. That way it will go back on after painting in the same place. This is what how I was guided and i think is best after thinking about. Good luck with the build.

    Callahan

  9. #9
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    I would leave the bulb seal off because this isn't going to be your final body install. Once you get the front and rear mounts on, the front to rear position correct, then use a marker to scribe a line near the edge of the sheet aluminum panels. You want to end up w/ the same proper amount of clearance aluminum edge to fiberglass every where. Usually this will require some trimming here and there. Since there will be spots that need trimming, if the bulb seal were on, those spots would be pushing the body to an incorrect position. You can do it w/ just three people. The sides need to be pulled out to clear the hinges so it's nice to have a person per each side. But one person can run back and forth. I also like having the 2x4 spreader on there. I go a step further by running a ratchet strap from the hood opening to the trunk opening. This way the 2x4 keeps the body from collapsing and the strap keeps the 2x4 from falling out. That can happen when the sides stop moving downward caught on a hinge, but the back keeps being lowered.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  10. #10
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    Hi Craig,
    Thanks for the tips. That is a great idea to run a ratchet strap from front to back to hold the cockpit support in place; didn't think of that. I will do that. I have the body on a hoist supported by 4 ratchet straps at the quick jack holes; that way I can lower it slowly and check all along the way.
    No bulb seal first time, just like the kit came.
    Thanks again,
    Jeff
    Mk4 Complete kit with IRS, IRS brakes, Power Steering, 302 mounts, 302 headers, TKO, 2 Rollbars, Leather seats,
    vintage gauges, polished stainless sidepipes, front and rear sway bars, all cutouts.
    Blueprint Engines 347 stroker; Tremec TKO 600; 3.55 IRS, 17" Bullitt wheels: 9" front 10.5" rear.
    Delivered Nov. 6, 2018. First start Aug. 11, 2019. First Go-Cart Feb. 21, 2020.

  11. #11

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    Agree with doing the first fit with the bulb off. I ended up having to trim quite a bit off the trunk aft edge sheet metal in order to get the body close, and had the bulb been on for the first fit, it would have been damaged. You'll also get a feel for how much you'll have to trim from the dash and cockpit lip on the body at this point.

    On subsequent fits, I put the bulb on, but used this cellophane tape over the bulb to protect it and give the bulb a slick surface to allow the body to slide over easily. I think I had the body on and off three times before I was satisfied with the fit, and finally removed the tape prior to the last install.

    E5C16E22-BBFC-45EC-83C1-91B6C4576687.jpeg

    I also found hanging the body from the garage ceiling very convenient for getting the body on and off. Note the supports between the cockpit wall and the dash if you do this.

    987BD525-443C-4519-95E7-3D1AFD7FF6E5.jpeg

    Lastly, to put the body on, clear the front end first. After clearing the front mounts, you can slide the body aft to clear the trunk side and lower sheet metal panels. As the body clears the trunk, use caution to pull out the body at the sides to clear the door hinges as the body settles.

    Good luck!
    Last edited by RJD; 03-24-2020 at 12:20 PM.
    MKIV complete kit w/powder coating and cut outs, serial #9189 delivered 10/10/17, first start - 10/5/18, legal - 10/08/20. Blueprint 306 w/Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, power steering, Breeze fan shroud, trunk cubby, & engine compartment battery kit, CNC brake reservoirs, RT turn signal & gas pedal, mechanical throttle linkage, METCO safety loop, GASN side pipes, drop trunk, dual chrome roll bars, vintage gauges, glove box, custom center console, cup holders, and speakers.

  12. #12
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    ITS ON!!
    With all you guys help and also from my lovely wife, we got it on. Used 2 cockpit supports to keep the body from twisting, then lifted it off the buck with my hoiset in the ceiling. It was a little difficult pulling the body back over the trunk bottom sheet metal, but we got it.

    thumb_DSCF0498_1024.jpg

    thumb_DSCF0487_1024.jpg
    Mk4 Complete kit with IRS, IRS brakes, Power Steering, 302 mounts, 302 headers, TKO, 2 Rollbars, Leather seats,
    vintage gauges, polished stainless sidepipes, front and rear sway bars, all cutouts.
    Blueprint Engines 347 stroker; Tremec TKO 600; 3.55 IRS, 17" Bullitt wheels: 9" front 10.5" rear.
    Delivered Nov. 6, 2018. First start Aug. 11, 2019. First Go-Cart Feb. 21, 2020.

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