Quote Originally Posted by Cobradavid View Post
I used the brake duct opening to pull air to my driver side footbox. Go faster than ~25 mph and I get good flow just from the ram air. When I'm stopped or moving slowly, I turn on the blower. My entire system (including butterfly valve) is home made. For the fan, I use a bilge fan blower purchased at a boating store. It works great.
David
Here are pics of the system.

The butterfly valve, assembled and painted:


The valve housing is a PVC pipe and a metal duct transition. The valve is made from two pipe caps. I cut the "knock out" centers from both caps. One center section is the butterfly flapper, and the other cap's ring is cut in half to make a C-shaped stop for the flapper. Coat hanger wire was bent to shape and epoxied to the flapper.


Assembled and painted valve closed (you can see the extra, yellow knock-out center in the upper left):



Valve opened:



The valve is mounted in a hole cut through the footbox forward wall. The valve is opened and closed via a manual choke cable (pull to open the valve), which has the handle attached to the transverse 2 x 2 member below the dash.

Valve closed:



Valve open:



Another metal duct transition piece was modified to make a scoop for the brake cooling duct opening. I made brackets to mount the scoop and for mounting the bilge blower. Pipe clamps attach the metal dryer duct sections to the scoop and the bilge blower, and blower to the valve housing. The wires for the blower motor run through the rear duct to a switch on the dash. The rear duct passes through a hole in the elephant ear panel. Zip ties hold the duct sections in place.


Scoop:



Blower and rear duct:




The system has worked perfectly since I installed it in May 2010. The few times I had to remove the elephant ear panel, I just cut the zip ties, detach the rear duct from the blower motor, disconnect the wires, and pull the duct through the panel as I pull the panel out of the wheel well.


David