MK IV parking brake issues?

[davespencer]

Just wondering if i am doing something wrong but i seem to have a clearance issue with the aluminum on the side of the trans tunnel interfering with my parking brake lever i have it assembled exactly like the photo in the assembly manual but the lever will not go all the way down i tried putting the bolts in the other way and it helped but not good enough any ideas or thoughts would be greatly appreciated
thanks very much
dave s

[edwardb]

Common problem. Slot the holes in the chassis mounts plus the mount brackets on the e-brake handle as necessary. Mostly in the front so that it tips out and clears the aluminum.

[davespencer]

thank you edward i will take a look at that also wondered about trimming the aluminum panel?

[edwardb]

thank you edward i will take a look at that also wondered about trimming the aluminum panel?

Yes if necessary around the opening. Stay inside where the boot goes. But likely you'll still need to slot mounting holes to move the handle away from the aluminum sides. Remember you still have insulation and/or carpet that has to go under the handle.

[scottiec]

I flipped the bolts and then massaged the aluminum with a hammer. With boot and carpet it looks just fine

[John4337]

I flipped the bolts and then massaged the aluminum with a hammer. With boot and carpet it looks just fine

X2. A dead blow hammer works wonders on nudging the panel in a bit, and the carpet and boot hide it completely.

John

[edwardb]

I thought what the OP was describing is the handle ends up right against or interfering with the aluminum sidewall on the tunnel. A somewhat common problem. This can happen even with the mounting brackets/bolts on the front and back of the e-brake handle at their maximum adjustment. I wouldn't think you would want to dent the aluminum to clear the handle. That would be outside the boot and quite visible. Slotting the mounting holes a bit allows the handle to be tipped out enough to clear the aluminum and subsequent insulation and/or carpet.

I've also noticed a bit of interference around the handle mechanism that does end up under the boot. I wondered if FF didn't change the cutout in the sidewall when they changed from the Mustang donor handle to their own design handle. I trimmed the aluminum, but I guess you could take a hammer to it instead.

[Norm B]

I had to trim the aluminum to allow the handle full movement. Just trace around the boot and allow 1/2 to 3/4 inch inside that for mounting.

HTH

Norm

[JRL16]

Slotting the bolt holes works well. Good luck

[broku518]

Sane issue here. Will work the holes and flip bolts if needed.

Also, have you noticed the weird way the two cables are routed. Any tips to improve this?

[davespencer]

thanks all for the tips/techniques! seems like a few design flaws that would be nice to correct. i also think the cables running under the 4" tube and rubbing on it does not seem like a great idea

[edwardb]

Sane issue here. Will work the holes and flip bolts if needed.

Also, have you noticed the weird way the two cables are routed. Any tips to improve this?

thanks all for the tips/techniques! seems like a few design flaws that would be nice to correct. i also think the cables running under the 4" tube and rubbing on it does not seem like a great idea

That's been discussed a lot, and countless builds have been successful running them that way. But I'm not a big fan either. Came up with this approach on my last build: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post225428. Scroll down a few posts and you'll see I added a second pulley after a great suggestion. This e-brake setup works really well in #8674.

[Bobby Doug]

I flipped the bolts and then massaged the aluminum with a hammer. With boot and carpet it looks just fine

X3 on this.
Doug

[BDHoneyman]

I just went through this step. I elongated the mounting holes and flipped the bolts but the handle still had substantial interference with the aluminum, both with the handle bolts (that were flipped) and, in particular, the carriage bolt that you can see in the photo. I decided to enlarge the cutout in the aluminum. The tracing is the outline of the boot.

DSC_5357.JPG

-Bruce

[karlos]

Try moving the front angle bracket to the other side of the ratchet bar. The photos below show the rear angle bracket located on the right (outboard) side of the ratchet bar, same as what you have. But the front angle bracket has been relocated to the opposite (left, or inboard) side of the ratchet bar. The last photo taken from the inside-out probably shows it best. If assembled this way the handle will clear the existing cutout in the aluminum with no modifications.

[BDHoneyman]

Hi, Karlos,
I've been comparing our photos carefully. It appears that in my case the cutout is higher relative to the handle. For example, I just measured the handle and when it is fully released (i.e., in the down position), there are 1 1/2 inches above it to the top of the cutout. In your photo, the forward bolt is higher than the bottom of the cutout. In the case of mine, the bolt is below the cutout and there is no way for me to raise the assembly because the ratchet 'locks' into the bracket fixing the handle assembly into the vertical position. And, my cockpit Al is as far down as is possible on the chassis.
-Bruce

[BDHoneyman]

Karlos,
I just realized that your forward 'L' bracket is on top of the chassis bracket; in my case (complete kit e-brake), the instructions are to place it on the underside of the bracket, and as I mentioned above, the ratchet piece has a grove that locks onto the chassis bracket. We may have different assemblies.
-Bruce

[karlos]

We may have different assemblies.
-Bruce

Hi Bruce. Could be, but I can't spot any differences based on what I see in the photos. I think this is just one of those cases where the assembly instructions can be improved upon. If you bench assemble the e-brake as shown below (rear angle bracket on the outboard side of the ratchet, front angle bracket on the opposite side of the ratchet) and then install with both angles on top of the chassis bracket I'll bet clearance to the sheetmetal will be adequate.

-Karl

[BDHoneyman]

Thanks Karlos, I'll try it-- I can always put a patch panel over the hole I cut.
-Bruce

[Scotty's65]

As a side question, can you reach the e brake with the 5 seat belts tight on the MK4?

Scott

[edwardb]

As a side question, can you reach the e brake with the 5 seat belts tight on the MK4?

Scott

I'm average size, always wear the 5-point, and can reach the e-brake lever in the stock position. I wear the belts reasonably tight, but not so tight I can't move a little. If I really cinched them up, probably wouldn't make it. But I've used it for multiple driving seasons in that position and find it acceptable. But only as a parking brake. If you like to use the e-brake while driving (e.g. for hill holding while letting the clutch out or if you're into drifting ) it's not a good position.

[Dave Howard]

X3 on this.
Doug

X4 on this easy little tweak. No need to get TOO elaborate.

As for the reach, I'm a lanky 6'2". With the harness snugged up the e-brake handle is almost out of reach with it mounted in the stock location. I'm OK with that. Some builders have opted to install the e-brake assembly with the handle exposed on the top of the trans tunnel. Personally, I think it's not very pleasing to the eye and clutters up that area.