Halibrand wheels on basic roadster

[Joel Hauser]

I am building an Mk4 Roadster basic kit using a 1996 mustang donor. the Rolling chassis was completed a few months ago, and driven around the block a bunch of times with my kids and my 97 year old mother. Since then I have mounted the body, doors, hood, trunk and dash. All gauges work.
I'm shopping for new tires now. Factory five included a set of Halibrand 17" rims, 9" for the front, 10.5 in the back. the build manual, and the FF tech guys, say that if you use these wheels with the stock mustang lower control arms, they will rub on the control arms. I've been told that you can use them if you limit the turn radius. Has anyone used these Halibrand rims with the stock mustang LCA's? Is the reduced turning radius a problem? Or should I just go with the stock stock 17 x 8 mustang rims and new tires. I know I could buy new FF tubular LCA's, but they are kind of expensive, and seems to be out of stock.
Any suggestions, experience and insights will be appreciated.
Joel

[michael everson]

You will be fine with the FFR supplied wheels and the lower control arms if you reduce the turning radius. The other thing you can do is relieve the control arm where the wheel hits to gain a little more room. They are very beefy and wont be affected by a little trimming.
Your bigger problem may actually be in the rear. Did you swap out the axles for shorter ones? If not you may have rubbing on the rear fenders with the stock length axles. You may need to purchase shorter axles and offset brake brackets. There are a number of vendors on this forum that can supply you the parts you need.
Mike

[Jeff Kleiner]

... Your bigger problem may actually be in the rear. Did you swap out the axles for shorter ones? If not you may have rubbing on the rear fenders with the stock length axles. You may need to purchase shorter axles and offset brake brackets. There are a number of vendors on this forum that can supply you the parts you need.
Mike

My thoughts exactly.

Jeff

[Joel Hauser]

thanks Mike and Jeff. Ugh; It seems like every time I take a step forward, I take two steps back. The axle and brake bracket upgrade sounds complicated, and no doubt I'll run into new unforeseen problems. As for the front LCA's, trimming them for more clearance, I don't know if I'm up to that. This is my first, and will be my only, build. I'm thinking that for now at least, the easiest thing to do is to use the mustang wheels, which I know fit properly, finish the car, enjoy it, and then decide whether to upgrade to the Halibrand wheels in the future.
Thanks again. I may not like the answer, but I know you're right.

[michael everson]

The axle and brake brackets will likely cost you less then buying tires twice. The mustang tires will not fit the Halibrand wheels. Even professionally installed it might be cheaper. You could always trailer it to me in MA and I can do it for you. The trimming is literally minor clearance with a dremel or angle grinder. Not really a big deal.
Mike

[Jeff Kleiner]

As an option to getting into the rear end you could purchase another pair of 9" Halibrands for the rear and sell your 10.5" rims.

Jeff

[Joel Hauser]

So, just when I've made up my mind to stick with the mustang wheels, you guys come back with reasonable alternatives. I dunno; this weekend I was hoping to finish installation of the radiator, installing the sheet metal around it. If I get that done, I think I take the rims out of the box, put them on the car, and see how they seem to fit. I was thinking I could make some cardboard tires to put on the rims, to see where the tires line up with the fender flairs LCA. If the 9" wheels work in the back, maybe FF will let me have an even exchange?
Thanks
Joel

[AC Bill]

As for the front LCA's, trimming them for more clearance, I don't know if I'm up to that.

You really don't have to do more than cutting a small notch, at the point on the donor arms that the wheel would hit. You can determine the point by cranking the steering to full lock, in both directions. Mark where the wheel touches the arm, and get out the angle grinder. Alternatively you can buy steering limiter spacers, which you slip on to the inner steering rod, after loosening the rubber bellows on your steering rack.




I always thought that FFR, starting with the 3.1 model body, flared the rear fender area out more, specifically to allow for the longer axles on the post 93 Mustang rear ends? I haven't heard a lot of complaining about the tires rubbing here, or on the other forum, and I would have thought there were several builders using them..?

[Joel Hauser]

Hi Bill, based upon the advice you and others have given, I think the first thing I have to do is put the bare halibrand rims on the car, and take some measurements to see where they sit in relation to the front control arms, and all four fender flares. I'm just a home DIY mechanic, but I think I can handle a little grinding. Also, I like Jeff'suggestion, that I put 9" rims in the back, because I personally think the 10.5" rims look way to wide on such a small, low riding vintage sports car. I'm not worried about loss of traction because I'll probably never drive over 50 mph - I just don't have the nerve. I'm using a relatively unmodified 4.6 SOHC engine. I had to have the cylinder's bored out a little because they were pitted, and I put in oversized pistons, but I don't think that significantly changes displacement. The only horsepower mod that I guess I've done is use FF's hooker headers, add a cold air intake, remove the AC pump, and install manual steering. And at 63 years old, I have never once in my life had to slam on the brakes and skid. I'm just a really cautious driver. As for using the original mustang rims, to tell the truth, I actually like the way they look on the car, although everyone else in my family thinks they look too modern for the roadster.
Thanks to everyone for the very very constructive input and advice. I really appreciate it.
Joel

[AC Bill]

You could probably exchange the 10.5" for 9" with FFR, or maybe even someone on the forums. The 9" look good, and will further reduce the chance of any rubbing.
As far as loss of traction goes, you can still spin a 10.5" tire as easy as a 9". It's all about being smooth on the throttle..lol

[Joel Hauser]

that'll be me, Mr. Smoothie on the throttle.