Plavan's 818R Build Thread

[Santiago]

You've got to beat that Lotus.

YES, YES, YES! [Even if it is just on the stopwatch]

[Wayne Presley]

That guy in the Caterham just can't drive... He's giving up an easy 2 seconds a lap. Chad, the 911 seems a little loose on corner exit, is it?

[C.Plavan]

That guy in the Caterham just can't drive... He's giving up an easy 2 seconds a lap. Chad, the 911 seems a little loose on corner exit, is it?

It's a little loose, but not too bad. Just like any 911 with torsion bars and a 46 year old suspension design. I like keeping my reflexes trained.

[C.Plavan]

Everyone check your rod ends.

During my pre race check of the car, both rear inner rod ends separated....... Great....... ordered new ends, but I may have to press these in and use washers to get me ready for the race.

[Santiago]

Aurora rod ends & F.K. Bearings rod ends...these are the goods.

For me, what was supplied was good for set up and shakedown, but everything is getting replaced when its time to start a season.

[Mulry]

This implies that the rod end-spacer design maybe wasn't the most well thought out idea. Maybe a high deflection safety washer would've worked better.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3068

[C.Plavan]

This implies that the rod end-spacer design maybe wasn't the most well thought out idea. Maybe a high deflection washer & a stack of washers behind would've worked better.

I checked all the others and they were ok. I will be changing them all this offseason if I still have the car.

[Tamra]

Wow!!! Glad you caught that.... we'll keep an eye on ours. Is FFR replacing them for you, I hope?

[C.Plavan]

Wow!!! Glad you caught that.... we'll keep an eye on ours. Is FFR replacing them for you, I hope?

It would just happen again, I'm going to use better stuff.

[bbjones121]

I don't remember seeing anything like this on my car. Did they upgrade later chassis with another side on that end? Maybe they can just send you the other side that you could weld on your chassis later?

[C.Plavan]

I don't remember seeing anything like this on my car. Did they upgrade later chassis with another side on that end? Maybe they can just send you the other side that you could weld on your chassis later?

These are the same tubes/rod ends FFR provides. They just did not provide them for my car (it's chassis #44). Its the only way to adjust toe correctly at R height.

[bbjones121]

These are the same tubes/rod ends FFR provides. They just did not provide them for my car (it's chassis #44). Its the only way to adjust toe correctly at R height.

Oh ok. Well I hope you can figure something out. I am really looking forward to seeing how your car does. By the way, I see the other bracket now. From the pictures it didn't look like the bolt/eye was supported on one side.

[C.Plavan]

This should hold them in for this weekend. Then I will replace them all with quality ends.
You need (2) Grade 8- 5/8" washers, (4) 16mm regular washers per rod end. I got them from Ace Hardware locally.

Side note: Somehow I got a hold of some of the crappier two piece rod ends- I'm not sure how I let that slip. You should be fine with the one piece ones that FFR provides since it has much higher lateral loads. Don't make the mistake I did.

[Hindsight]

Good luck this weekend. Hope those anti-collapse things sorts your issue.

[C.Plavan]

Thanks- I found all sorts of crazy weird things. I disconnected the spintric. I need to talk with the ARE guy. It was not flowing that much oil to the coolers, and instead dumping hot oil in the top of the tank. I disconnected it, and now have great flow to the coolers. It was a trickle with the spintric. I also am running sans vent on the case- total vacuum like Gator. There is no way for hot oil to bypass the coolers and dump into the tank now. It all HAS to go through the coolers.

The inner spring supports are in the vacuum lines, with heatshields over the headers. Oil pump belt is checked for tension. If the oil is not getting pumped out of the motor, it will stay full and not go out my old case vent to the oil tank.... So here goes nothing!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Good luck Chad,
if the crank case gets full, you will feel a large drop in power making to the wheels.
Are you going to the track tomorrow?
Bob

[C.Plavan]

Good luck Chad,
if the crank case gets full, you will feel a large drop in power making to the wheels.
Are you going to the track tomorrow?
Bob

I'll be out there testing a half day on Friday. If it works, I'm racing the weekend.

[Sgt.Gator]

Fingers crossed for you!
I know this is Capt Obvious, but you didn't have the Spintric connected in reverse? No need to reply unless it was!

[C.Plavan]

Fingers crossed for you!
I know this is Capt Obvious, but you didn't have the Spintric connected in reverse? No need to reply unless it was!

I triple checked. I had it totally correct. I was scratching my head. That's why I disconnected the return line to see what was going on. Nothing on this car makes sense. haha

[D Clary]

Good luck this weekend, your due.

[metros]

^Agreed. Good luck

[Flamshackle]

all the best chad! we are watching from a world away hoping it all comes together on the day.

[RetroRacing]

Good luck man!!

[C.Plavan]

Thanks Guys! I really want this thing to work.

I talked with the Engineer at ARE about the Spintric. He said in my case I had to run the Spintric after the coolers. He apologized for not updating the instructions for cars with long oil line runs or multiple coolers.

Before I re routed, I rev'd the crap out of the car with the Spintric un hooked. There was foam in the top of the oil tank. I then re routed the lines, made a new one, and hooked up the Spintric. I rev'd that crap out of it again, checked the coolers, checked lines, and looked in the tank....No Foam Everything is working on that front for sure. Good oil flow, and no foam in the tank. Lets just hope my real problem was those darn collapsing scavenge lines. Fingers-crossed

[Mitch Wright]

Fingers crossed

[Hindsight]

If it doesn't solve the issue (and I'm hoping it does, believe me), have you given any consideration to going back to a wet sump temporarily, as a tool for testing and elimination?

[Sgt.Gator]

Are you staying with the sealed up motor and just splitting the air/mist line off the Spintric close to the tank? I am imagining you have just the one line from the DS pump>cooler1>cooler2>Spintric split>DS tank?

I changed my oil yesterday to mothball my car for the winter. Man that 20W50 racing oil is like cold maple syrup!

[Wayne Presley]

Sgt, you forgot the motor

[C.Plavan]

Are you staying with the sealed up motor and just splitting the air/mist line off the Spintric close to the tank? I am imagining you have just the one line from the DS pump>cooler1>cooler2>Spintric split>DS tank?

I changed my oil yesterday to mothball my car for the winter. Man that 20W50 racing oil is like cold maple syrup!

Yes, all sealed up. I tied the head vents together and Tee'd them to the 3/4 case vent line (No more venting to my oil tank). Just like you did. I bought better, stiffer hose that could take the vacuum for the head and case vents. The old hose would collapse on top of the motor with the new sealed set up. It means the vacuum is working.

As for the Dry sump routing......Scavenge pan>DS Pump>Cooler1 (Rear)>Cooler2(Front)>Cooler3(Front)>Spintric scavenge in>Spintric Magic> Spintric split (two fittings) to oil tank (oily air) to top of tank with special fitting, Scavenge out (no foamy oil) to middle fitting of oil tank. Then there is the vent to a catch can from the other top oil tank fitting.

I'm leaving all three oil coolers hooked up this time. Maybe I can get rid of the rear one if everything works as planned.

I'm using the 15/50 Mobil 1. I am bringing my VR1 20/50 also just in case.

[Mulry]

My fingers are crossed for you today, Chad.

Thanks Guys! I really want this thing to work.

I talked with the Engineer at ARE about the Spintric. He said in my case I had to run the Spintric after the coolers. He apologized for not updating the instructions for cars with long oil line runs or multiple coolers.

Before I re routed, I rev'd the crap out of the car with the Spintric un hooked. There was foam in the top of the oil tank. I then re routed the lines, made a new one, and hooked up the Spintric. I rev'd that crap out of it again, checked the coolers, checked lines, and looked in the tank....No Foam Everything is working on that front for sure. Good oil flow, and no foam in the tank. Lets just hope my real problem was those darn collapsing scavenge lines. Fingers-crossed

What? This is backwards from the documentation they send with that unit. Hmm. Guess I need to talk to ARE before we do our final setup. That routing is really at odds with the normal plumbing routing (like this: http://barnessystems.com/plumbing-schematics/2732883). I wonder if that's because you're not using a DS Pump with a pressure side? Thx Chad.

How are you guys connecting the head vents to the case vent? Did you drill/tap the case vent for a fitting or what are you using? Are you just using push-on hose and worm clamps at the factory fitting on the head vent? Given the amount of suction from the dry sump, I wonder if all three of those couldn't just be capped, I can't imagine that the heads are filling with oil enough to overflow to the vents when the dry sump pump is running.

[C.Plavan]

Here goes nothing! Forgot my GoPro housing darn it. I'll grab it tonight if things go well.

[mikeb75]

Luck!

[Pearldrummer7]

Good luck! Can't wait to hear how it goes

[C.Plavan]

Didn't work. Packing it up.

[Sgt.Gator]

My fingers are crossed for you today, Chad.
How are you guys connecting the head vents to the case vent? Did you drill/tap the case vent for a fitting or what are you using? Are you just using push-on hose and worm clamps at the factory fitting on the head vent? Given the amount of suction from the dry sump, I wonder if all three of those couldn't just be capped, I can't imagine that the heads are filling with oil enough to overflow to the vents when the dry sump pump is running.

There's pics over the R thread on oil issues, but the short answer is there are two vents on each head. The rear vents stay connected via the OEM balance system of tubes and hoses to the block vent. It stays oem original.
The front two vents we teed together, then run the teed line back to the former PCV vent fitting in the block. In my case I used a metal elbow to make the turn down to the PCV vent and tapped a vacuum hose into the elbow connected to a boost/vacuum gauge on my dash.

The purpose is to keep pressures even between both heads and the block.

Hope this makes sense!

[Sgt.Gator]

didn't work. Packing it up.

noooooo!!!!!

[Mechie3]

Lame.

[D Clary]

Sorry Chad, still think you are chasing effect not cause.

[Pearldrummer7]

Didn't work. Packing it up.

What happened? Same thing?

[Hindsight]

Ugh, sorry man.